No Oil Pressure in Piper J3 Cub? | Aircraft Maintenance
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- čas přidán 27. 11. 2020
- This has happened just once this year, starting the piper j3 cub and having no oil pressure. However, flying more will almost eliminate it.
With small continentals, I believe this often happens when they do not run for several weeks and have the accessory case has wear around the oil pump. The engine on "Spare Parts" is a A-65 Continental.
After watching the full video, let me know if you have any questions any other suggestions.
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I've very recently also learned to lift the tail pretty high for 30-45 secs "before" starting at all! Be mindful of the prop! This (can) prevent from needing to add oil at all.
That's probably a good tip for all of us with the little wheel in the back. 👍
My J3 has currently this issue of no oil pressure building up. I will try the taillifting and let you know. Otherwise will try the oil priming.
@@birds_eye_view Lift the tail high for 10-15 secs. Make sure the prop is clear… 😉🤞
If no go, prime it for sure.
@@Blaircraft.Engines Lifting the tail - I might need to go to the gym or do it more often 😳😂 Could not get it higher than just level. So no success there. Than got the temperature probe out. Almost bone dry. I guess any lifting in the world woudn’t had helped. So filled oil in there as good as it got. Started her up and voila - oilpressure after 2sec! 👍❤️ Perfect. Thanks for your advice there! 👍
I hope you're still looking at and reply to your comments. This video is 2 years old but a favorite of mine. I still reply to comments but I do miss a lot of them. A while back I changed email programs and haven't got everything rearranged like I would have it. So far I haven't had the zero pressure problem but will be on the outlook for it.
SO on to my questions. Question (1): I've noted a slot in the 5/8" nut that seems to be with associated with safety wire. My Cub (J3C-85) doesn't have safety wire either. Any comment? I've been getting deeper and deeper into the maintenance of my 1946 Cub with an AP looking over my shoulder. Question (2): Have you ever had a stuck (resistive) throttle? If so have you removed the existing throttle cable and soaked it in order to relieve the resistence or Question (3) Have you removed an old Cub throttle cable, clean the area where it was and then installed a new throttle cable? I may have to do that in the near future.
I know there's a good chance that you won't see the comment. That happens to me for my two channels quite often. John
John,
Thanks for the comment and questions!
Glad you enjoyed the video. I often just lift the tail prior to starting after a few weeks since last run. I don't recall there being a hole or anything for the 5/8" temp. sensor for safety wire. Even though it's been over 15 yrs working on this J3, it's the only J3 and A65 that I have experience with.
I haven't had any throttle issues on the J3, however in the Cessna aircraft I have.
In the past, I have added LPS-2 at the cable ends to help with freeing it up some.
I wish I had better info! Thanks again. Stay safe and be blessed! J. Blair
Love it, my old Cub needs the same love once and awhile
What a great way to demonstrate one of the quirks of maintaining an old cub!
Yes... Appreciate the comment!
Very informative. Thanks!
Good to hear. Thanks for your feedback!
Excellent film footage.
Great Video
Thanks for the feedback!
I helped a fellow out last week when his chief had no pressure on startup. I lifted the tail. It did the trick and he hand propped it.
I recently had to lift the tail again.... It works every time! (best before you start)
That is an expensive oil temperature bulb. Be careful not to twist the line. It is a small copper tube with a protective wrap. I usually lift the tail high before starting so that any oil sitting in the low spot of the filter housing will run back into the pump gears. If it still needs priming, you can remove the oil pressure gauge fitting on the right side of the engine and squirt some in with an oil squirt can. P.S. There should be a small orifice fitting there that restricts the oil in case of a hose breakage. It also dampens the gauge. Make sure that fitting is installed.
Yes. They’re expensive for sure. It sounds like lifting the tail high for about 1 min before running most likely will take care of it. About about the small orifice fitting... I’m curious of how difficult it is to get oil through the smaller opening?
Hi Josh- just wondered if you know the part numbers or sizes of the 2 copper crush washers in the oil temperature assembly - I'm having trouble finding them.
You did all that with gloves on! That's master mechanic skills there :) How often do you do this?
Thanks! I've only had to actually do this once in 2020. This time was for you the viewer!
Josh have you removed your oil screen filter and cleaned it out really really good? Your suppose to clean the filter every oil change.
Yes. Every time I make sure it's very clean and no carbon is left behind. I also verify there isn't any metal or some other random F.O.D.
Thank you for the tips. I have read it is a good idea to raise the tail for any A65 if it has not been run for some period of time. How long do you hold the tail up for is my question ? Thanks again
When I do it, I normally hold the tail up about 10 seconds.
Funny thing is, I just had ZERO oil pressure indicated in my Sonex after starting it for the 3rd time the other day. Looks like a bad sending unit for the digital MGL gauge. A mechanical gauge fixed that!
That could be scary... glad you found the issue!
Question on a similar issue: What if you have low oil pressure? Can you address the role of the plunger and spring?? How to replace them?
Yeah I’ll add this my video list for the first of next year. There is actually a quick fix for the Oil pressure relief valve that works at least 50% that was shown to me from a lycoming representative.
FYI- I’m working on several maintenance videos for the first part of the year.
January and moving forward will be more regular uploads. Stay tuned!
Get an open box end wrench on that nut that you are loosening and tightening, so you don't round off that nut.
Good point! Great reminder... Thanks!
@@Blaircraft.Engines Better yet a line/flare nut wrench. A box end will result in a lot less contact since it's a 12 pointer.