Loved the video and this series as a whoile! Would you ever consider making a video showing your process for painting the pilot figures that come with MG kits?
Thank you!🥳 In retrospect, I probably should have named this series Gunpla Modeler, but hey the concepts are similar to other plamo, except for moving parts 😅 Actually the kit I inted to build for episode 4 is an MG with a pilot! 😁 They're easy to paint because they have less details to worry about. ☕☕☕
Did you apply thinner to your brush before using the mr hobby aqueous? It look so clean when you did it, but when I tried it, it got unevenly dried and show lines.
Not at all, but just a damp brush (I dip my brush in water, blot it a bit in tissue paper before picking up paint). I noticed that the Aqueous dries so quickly and when it starts to dry, it becomes sticky. Whenever I tried adding a bit of water into the mix, it thinned it too much, but what I found worked well was simply dampening my brush (as I mentioned above) when the paint starts to become sticky (a feeling of the paint grabbing your brush). As for uniformity in application, try to apply in thin layers, let it dry before applying another coat. It's possible that the first coat won't entirely cover the surface, the second coat should cover it up completely, but it's important to let the first wet layer dry because applying a second coat on a still wet layer will break off that layer, causing uneveness/irregularities. I recommend using their own thinner T110 or T111 (not MR. LEVELING), which I wish I had during this build XD I couldn't recommend other other retarder brands since I have no experience how Aquaeous, being a bit of a hybrid formula (Aqueous is water based, but with a bit of solvent), would react with other retarders. In theory they should work, but I haven't experimented with them yet. I just would prefer getting their thinner to make sure they work optimally, it's on the list of my next supply reorder! :D ☕☕☕
I forgot to add, if possible, use a primer, this will allow paints to grip on the surface better and also use a larger brush (unless it's a really tiny area) to cover more surface with less strokes. :D Try not to flood the surface or your brush with too much paint so they don't pool or make lumps. The retarder should improve leveling so they flatten for a more even application. You can try online shops. I myself usually get my supplies online as we actually don't have a hobby shop nearby that stocks them T°T
Also found out that the Retarder Mild is NOT to be used with Aqueous, though I suppose it is possible, but their leaflet says otherwise. 🤣 I would stick to thinner if you want to improve the flow and it should also extend drying time by a tad while improving flow and adhesion as opposed to just water. A retarder basically does the same, but can extend drying time even more. In theory other brands of retarders should work, I have some Amsterdam and AK Interactive retarders for water based acrylics, I will try them next time. :D
Loved the video and this series as a whoile! Would you ever consider making a video showing your process for painting the pilot figures that come with MG kits?
Thank you!🥳 In retrospect, I probably should have named this series Gunpla Modeler, but hey the concepts are similar to other plamo, except for moving parts 😅
Actually the kit I inted to build for episode 4 is an MG with a pilot! 😁 They're easy to paint because they have less details to worry about.
☕☕☕
Did you apply thinner to your brush before using the mr hobby aqueous? It look so clean when you did it, but when I tried it, it got unevenly dried and show lines.
Not at all, but just a damp brush (I dip my brush in water, blot it a bit in tissue paper before picking up paint).
I noticed that the Aqueous dries so quickly and when it starts to dry, it becomes sticky. Whenever I tried adding a bit of water into the mix, it thinned it too much, but what I found worked well was simply dampening my brush (as I mentioned above) when the paint starts to become sticky (a feeling of the paint grabbing your brush).
As for uniformity in application, try to apply in thin layers, let it dry before applying another coat. It's possible that the first coat won't entirely cover the surface, the second coat should cover it up completely, but it's important to let the first wet layer dry because applying a second coat on a still wet layer will break off that layer, causing uneveness/irregularities.
I recommend using their own thinner T110 or T111 (not MR. LEVELING), which I wish I had during this build XD I couldn't recommend other other retarder brands since I have no experience how Aquaeous, being a bit of a hybrid formula (Aqueous is water based, but with a bit of solvent), would react with other retarders. In theory they should work, but I haven't experimented with them yet.
I just would prefer getting their thinner to make sure they work optimally, it's on the list of my next supply reorder! :D ☕☕☕
@@paniccoffee Thanks, I will try your tip. I tried to find Retarder for sometime in my local stores but sadly could not find them anywhere.
I forgot to add, if possible, use a primer, this will allow paints to grip on the surface better and also use a larger brush (unless it's a really tiny area) to cover more surface with less strokes. :D Try not to flood the surface or your brush with too much paint so they don't pool or make lumps. The retarder should improve leveling so they flatten for a more even application.
You can try online shops. I myself usually get my supplies online as we actually don't have a hobby shop nearby that stocks them T°T
Also found out that the Retarder Mild is NOT to be used with Aqueous, though I suppose it is possible, but their leaflet says otherwise. 🤣 I would stick to thinner if you want to improve the flow and it should also extend drying time by a tad while improving flow and adhesion as opposed to just water.
A retarder basically does the same, but can extend drying time even more. In theory other brands of retarders should work, I have some Amsterdam and AK Interactive retarders for water based acrylics, I will try them next time. :D