Video

頑張りました！優しいお言葉ありがとうございます! (Sorry, my Nihongo is only very basic! >_<, but thank you for your kind words and I hope you've enjoyed watching the process)

So far, in terms of cutting ability, yes! Also since the blade is detachable, it can be easily honed/sharpened, further prolonging its lifespan, but time will tell if the steel quality can hold its sharp edge, which is what the Godhands excel in despite much use (within reason: aka only for intended materials). The only caveat I have to report right now is that the blades are a bit wider, while the Godhand can access tighter spaces.

Thanks! 😊 ☕☕☕

Haha thanks! I should put back the coffees in the videos... ☕🤔

@@paniccoffee Right now I am drinking Stash chai tea with honey. My go-to coffee is Cafe Bustelo in the a.m. in a 3 cup moka pot. I let the liquid go to bottom of the stem.

Well, that depends which edition, because after this video, they've decided to make 5th Ed, which, from my understanding, makes this edition "Legacy" (I suppose as a means of rotation). For Legacy I'd say get the Anthology, Heirs of the Blood and starters you like... it would be about 22€ per pack so about 300-400€ total. You'd be spending more on 5th edition as they are planning to release more in the future along with an official 2-player format (finally!), but it does look very attractive... and I am struggling to restist getting it as well lol. I only have the 5th edition box, but in any case even at these prices, considering it will not be a TCG, it's a great deal because none of the cards will (should ever) be scalped as Black Chantry themselves want the cards to cost average $0.2, regardless of rarity (except for some sets with exclusive packaging such as the anniversary editions). I'm excited for the 2-player variant! Still, it's relatively inexpensive compared to an actual randomized TCG, in which case, it becomes a monthly cost if you want to keep up and get everything. Let me know if you jumped back in!

@@paniccoffee Thank you so much! I got from ebay Jyhad Crypt vampire cards from 1994. I like the artwork.

Thanks, both are really cool! I was a bit unsure about the finger resst, but it really made sense once I started using it. :D

These thin blades are sharp, but very brittle, so I wouldn't recommend these thin blades for GW plastic or any type of cutting besides gate/sprue ends as they are harder plastic. On the flip side, it's great that you could file it off for reuse! 🥳 I file off my carving knives the same way as they get worn out.

A fave choice of mine in red gold look!🤭 (Balthasar Gold base from GW)

@BtakaV Just a Battle Sisters Squad box (two squad variants with customizable head options).

Are you talking about clean straight builds or customizing/painting? The latter doesn't require much cleanup. It's just that single edge nippers require less cleanup (less filing, trimming, smoothing) so it's just like a QoL upgrade in the sense that it saves time. I love the painting and customizing part of the hobby, not so much the sanding so 😅. Obviously it's totally optional if your process works well for you. 🙂 Also I wish we had Hobby Lobby here 😭 Awesome stuff in there for diy stuff

Thanks! Will do! ☕☕☕☕

Awesome! I'm still waiting for the restock it shut down on me 😅, but I'm sure it would last a long time under normal circumstances.☕

Well yes, most common cheap nippers out there are actually double bladed. Single blade nipper like this or Godhand are actually less common and niche specialist product. Two blades are actually worse for stress marks because their pinching movement put more stress into the part its cutting to.

Yes, actually the most common before the advent of single edged nippers. Think of it like a sharp knife (cutting blade) cutting on a chopping board (the blunt blade), effectively "slicing". What double edged nippers do is a "pinch", if the blades aren't extremely sharp, they tend to squeeze the plastic before actually cutting it, which causes deformations to the plastic parts.

@@cnhnx Yes, exactly, thank you!

@@cnhnxahh, gotcha. Didn’t realize double blades were the norm.

Yup, they are pretty good, albeit slightly wider blades, it cuts cleanly and honestly, with proper use, this would last a long time before any need to replace or sharpen, but I like that the option is there. :D Plamokojo Committee actually makes good products, but yeah the Miku Racing branding adds 1000 Yen. XD There is the standard version with orange trims, but it's exactly the same nipper.

The basic premise of these specialized nippers is less cleanup and minimal stress on plastic, but I wouldn't say it's a necessity, more a convenience. It is quite the investment as an upgrade, and if used correctly, you'll probably only need one and it will be well worth it.

I wouldn't recommend these for that application, but instead some some micro flush cutters intended for etched parts. If you're on the lookout for one, check out Hasegawa Trytool's Etching Nipper, they have a very thin blade of 1mm.

Thanks! I do like them both, they're just awesome! :D

I do have a few Knipexes for electronics and pipes and while I agree they are fantastic for metal wiring, they are far too large for plamo scales I work on and won't cut as cleanly, which is oftentimes the case with most double edged nippers. The single edge nippers work more like a mitre cutter and will leave a significantly flush cut without causing much stress and deformation on the plastic.

@@paniccoffee ahh ok. I used the tiny electronic snips on plastic models but filed the last bit flush with diamond files.

It's just the precision cut that makes these sharp, albeit brittle single edge nippers different and having slim blades just means less cleanup of nubs in sprues/gates. That said, diamond stones/files are amazing! Until last year, I've been using whetstones for my gouges/knives, until I got a few chisels, which then led me to finally get diamond stones/files. I especially like the small files to use with small tools like scissors and nippers.

They stress me out a bit too, but I found decal adhesives in addition to water, helps a lot in this process! 🥳 I do prefer waterslides over rub-ons. (I hate rub-ons XD).

Thanks and yeah, I see what you mean with the hair! XD I do wish their eye sockets are a bit deeper for detail.

Go for it! I have a crash course guide video, but I'm planning to add more. Orks are probably the most fun and easiest to magnetize because they have larger parts XD

Thanks!!! Oh yeah, love them and I'm really glad they have more units now! :)

The Steampunk theme was one of the biggest selling points for me and I feel there isn't a lot of that in this format even today, so if you like Steampunk, minis, and the usual replayability factor of games like this, then yes! :D (On the High Fantasy or Medieval Fantasy genre though, I think there are a lot better out there right now). Esspressly ☕☕☕

@@paniccoffee thanks for the reply! What would "the usual replayablity" be?

I meant with games like this (similar to other CMON games such as Zombicide, Shadows of Brimstone, etc.) will always have replayability factor with expansions and even just replaying the scenarios will never be exactly the same as your previous plays, especially if you change characters often.

@@paniccoffee Ah! I see. I'm new to the hobby and still am figuring replayablity out. It's odd to me, given I thought board games were meant to be replayable (unless they were "legacy" ones). Thanks a lot about the insight!

While relatability is expected in board games, the random elements such as dice results, card draws, coupled with character and scenario combinations makes for a more unpredictable, but influencable game. Euro games, for example, have a more structured way of play compared to this or Zombicide (Ameritrash, was what they called it I think 🤔, but I love it haha).

Glad you liked it! THANKS!

Thanks!!

Thanks!!! Glad you liked it! :)

It's not unusual and as you've concluded, it makes more sense for the blunt side to be slightly lower. This would make sure you can cut deep enough while having some leverage to hold it during the cutting motion. Godhand actually also has a subtly lowered alignment for the blunt blade and I also have other single blade nippers from Hobby Japan that exhibits this kind of alignment, but this actually would make more sense than being perfectly aligned like that with double edge nippers. Judging by both the logic and other designs I've seen, I think the Dspiae nips were designed that way. 😁 I do have their vice and I love it! I hear their stuff is pretty good! 👍 (Thanks for the info!) espressly, ☕☕☕

Right on! Especially these days, there are many hobby companies making ready to use wired LEDs. It's a great time to be making all sorts of dioramas! :)

Cool! 😎 Have fun! Most GW minis are very straightforward to build, but especially Space Marine types.☺️☕

Yes and no. The sisters are a very nicely detailed unit so it can seem daunting. I was nervous to but you can paint before assembly. It makes getting into hard places easier, take your time and do whatever you like. It’s a highly custom game, don’t be afraid to experiment, you can always redo it

Usually when this happens, it's either there's too much or too little water. If everything else fails, it could be defective. Best to have it returned. :D

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it and I'm happy to meet a fellow coffee lover! 🥳☕

Thanks a lot! ☕👌🎅🎄

Actually, GodHand now says that it can cut clear parts of maximum 1mm diameter, so I'll have to update this video. XD For any kind of nipper, regardless if they're high end or not, I still strongly recommend following the recommended diameter thickness and materials that can be cut stated on the instructions based on their internal testing. I believe you, but unless the instructions says that it can cut clear parts, I still would not recommend doing it. If people do, they do it at their own risk, but it's easier to risk $10 than $50. I'd be interested in these Nanye hobby nippers (if I can find them!). I always use a separate cheap nipper for hard or clear parts anyway to spare that damage on my high end ones. I technically can hone and sharpen my nippers using my tools in wood cutting, but using a spare nipper saves me from having to do that. :) That said, there are so many companies coming out with their own sharp blades these days, what a great time to start/be in the hobby! :D

@@paniccoffee i just think it boils down to where u cut. middle of the gates are usually 1-2mm thick anyway so it should be safe. sometimes i see people cut off parts from the runner by cutting at the rods where the gates are attached to, i guess thats how it breaks the single edge nippers. i bought the nippers out of necessity because the standard plato nippers blades are too thick to safely cut parts without stressing the other nubs in the process.

It is true what you said about people cutting the rods, probably in an attempt to reduce stress on plastic, which is usually a habit developed from using "pinching" nippers back in the day, they just squeeze and barely cut, so they caused the most extreme stress on plastic. It took me a while to adjust as well when I got better hobby nippers, minimizes cleaning time. I definitely recommend to cut in the middle as indicated in their instructions as well. Honestly, I still don't understand how people manage to break their GodHand nippers besides dropping it on the floor or cutting anything other than plastic, 🤔 which ultimately prompted me to make this video to help fellow hobbyists, especially if they're new.☕

Haha! Yeah, multiplayer in VTES is quite brutal!

Thanks!!! 👍☕

Since its recent codex and unit updates since 8th onwards, imo, yes! :)

Just like any hobby, it can get expensive depending on how far you want to go, but actually for Gunpla and general plamo, now is the most accessible time with many different alternatives to big brands of tools and materials, and even kits. Godhand, for example is a pricey and convenient upgrade, but it is not a necessity. You can get away with cheap nippers and a hobby knife. In terms of kits, once you go into limited editions or exclusives then yeah, that's expensive territory 😅

Time Vs Money but yes, the higher quality side of hobbies tend to get expensive.

Good to hear!😁☕ I'm blessed to have a spouse that actually shares all of the interests you've mentioned. I believe compromise is key if you don't exactly have the same interests. ☕

Yes, coffee ☕☕☕☕

Not at all, but just a damp brush (I dip my brush in water, blot it a bit in tissue paper before picking up paint). I noticed that the Aqueous dries so quickly and when it starts to dry, it becomes sticky. Whenever I tried adding a bit of water into the mix, it thinned it too much, but what I found worked well was simply dampening my brush (as I mentioned above) when the paint starts to become sticky (a feeling of the paint grabbing your brush). As for uniformity in application, try to apply in thin layers, let it dry before applying another coat. It's possible that the first coat won't entirely cover the surface, the second coat should cover it up completely, but it's important to let the first wet layer dry because applying a second coat on a still wet layer will break off that layer, causing uneveness/irregularities. I recommend using their own thinner T110 or T111 (not MR. LEVELING), which I wish I had during this build XD I couldn't recommend other other retarder brands since I have no experience how Aquaeous, being a bit of a hybrid formula (Aqueous is water based, but with a bit of solvent), would react with other retarders. In theory they should work, but I haven't experimented with them yet. I just would prefer getting their thinner to make sure they work optimally, it's on the list of my next supply reorder! :D ☕☕☕

@@paniccoffee Thanks, I will try your tip. I tried to find Retarder for sometime in my local stores but sadly could not find them anywhere.

I forgot to add, if possible, use a primer, this will allow paints to grip on the surface better and also use a larger brush (unless it's a really tiny area) to cover more surface with less strokes. :D Try not to flood the surface or your brush with too much paint so they don't pool or make lumps. The retarder should improve leveling so they flatten for a more even application. You can try online shops. I myself usually get my supplies online as we actually don't have a hobby shop nearby that stocks them T°T

Also found out that the Retarder Mild is NOT to be used with Aqueous, though I suppose it is possible, but their leaflet says otherwise. 🤣 I would stick to thinner if you want to improve the flow and it should also extend drying time by a tad while improving flow and adhesion as opposed to just water. A retarder basically does the same, but can extend drying time even more. In theory other brands of retarders should work, I have some Amsterdam and AK Interactive retarders for water based acrylics, I will try them next time. :D