HOSHIZAKI ICE MACHINE NOT WORKING
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- Hoshizaki machines used to be my favorite but not lately, I'm really liking the Manitowoc Quiet Cube machines.
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I was in a hotel over the weekend that had a Hoshizaki crammed in a tiny, un-vented un-air conditioned room. It was easily 100 in that room and it sounded like the poor compressor was internally bypassing. It was struggling to make much ice. I bet they go through ice machines with that kind of abuse.
Sales OPPERTUNITY !!! 😊😊😊😊
@davidsanders6957 is it that simple? Doubt they're gonna want to do necessarily additions of hvac to keep it cool.. or just throw a new one in only to be blamed that it'll crap out again in who knows how long
@@mgonzalez8880 Perfect spot for a model with a water cooled condenser
haha, usually they have an bathroom exhaust fan or tied to the building exhaust(silent/no noise) maybe they have a failed fan
HVACR VIDEOS, I'm addicted to your videos keep them flowing
Chris is very adamant about creating content to help train anyone willing to listen. I doubt he’ll ever stop, until he retires. He’s always providing quality content.
The first hit is free
Reminds me of a problem a had with pastry cases in Starbucks years ago. Every time I went there they would be froze up. I thawed them and ran it and found no issues. After numerous call backs I started looking closely at the compressor start relay and decided to open it up and found the contacts were severely burnt and pitted. The relay was sticking and over cooling the case and then freezing up. I then found the relay was not rated to the amp draw of the compressor circuit from the manufacture. I changed it to a normal 30 amp contactor and never had another issue. Never assume the manufactures are perfect and never make mistakes. Great vid man!
Great catch
The smaller connector is 4.8 mm, the standard one is 6.3 mm, those fuses should be ceramic on 208V, nice video as always 👍👍👍👍👍
4.8mm = 0.187 inch connectors, as generally sold in the US.
@@Mikeydude001 so there are fittings that are sizes with no sane origin in either metric or imperial/freedom units!
@@redneckcoder 3/16
@@redneckcoder it's 3/16 and 1/4, that's the normal size it's labeled as.
We have a bunch of Hoshi’s…..We’ve had to replace 6-8 this year because of separated evaporators. Most of them were R22 remote units installed in ‘93-‘95. Not mad about a 30 year service life!!! But…we do maintenance on them and filter the water. Always appreciate your methods. Thanks!! I learn stuff all the time from these videos.
Thanks for watching
Yeah I just replaced a separated evaporator on a 2006 km1200 Hoshi. I really like the km series, always been absolute tanks
I did remember the logic of this fuse holder.. It sounds like
"A fuse installed to protect expensive equipment in the event of a short circuit is reliably protected by the equipment that burns first"
Chris you can get a fuse holder for a otr microwave. Way better connection. You'll just have to find a spot to mount it and change the spade connector to normal 1/4 inch.
Definitely, the lose connection on the fuse holder. Fuses are designed for operation at 25C. That's the temperature the fuse element is designed at. If the operating temperature is higher than that then a designer has to get a correction chart from the fuse maker. It will show that higher and higher fuse amperages will be needed to provide the desired current protection. As an example, a 1A fuse in a 25C environment might need to be 3A fuse in a 60C environment to provide 1A protection. In this Hoshizaki case that bad connection can heat that fuse terminal to 100C! That would make that 10A fuse drop to maybe a 2A rating. Spontaneous blow.
Thanks for tuning in
Como siempre que veo tus muy buenos videos, un excelente trabajo Chris y muchas gracias por tus buenos consejos, saludos desde Coacalco Edo de México.
We have a mid-1990s Hoshizaki at work, not sure of the model, but it's been an absolute workhorse. Our water is well water, hard water with high calcium, lime, and iron. We've lost the occasional thumbscrew and the bin full switch never shuts it down, but other than that we've never ever had an issue with it. It should be cleaned much more frequently than it is, but it is regularly cleaned according to schedule for a much cleaner water supply. (Bare minimum is much better than what I've come to expect, and since the bar is that low, I'll accept that without fighting with them. That's pretty much at the very bottom of the list of issues with the store.)
It's probably the BEST piece of equipment we have, as aside from the bin full switch being either bad or improperly adjusted, it works dependably and continuously ALL the time without fail. I hope it's got a few more decades' life left to it.
Was doing some deep-cleaning the other day, and gave the tap system's condenser a thorough brushing out of the accumulated dust. It wasn't bad, but it needed to be done, and afterwards I could see through it. I grinned and thought of this channel when I recognized a Dixell controller above the condenser, I hadn't really looked behind the panel door because I hadn't had the time yet until then.
Maintenance was in the other day, finally attaching the lids to our sandwich station, which had been loose for over a decade due to missing hardware (and we don't replace the missing hardware, we cut the stainless and pop-rivet because nothing but the best, right? AND HE STILL HASN'T REPLACED THE POWER CABLE ON THAT SAME EXACT SANDWICH STATION, WITH ITS MULTIPLE BREAKS IN THE OUTER INSULATION!), and he decided to do random temperature checks of our two Delfield under-counter reach-in fridges.
"Whoa, this one is at 34°!" he exclaimed in shock as he checked the Drive Thru one. I looked at him and said, "Three weeks ago it was kicking butt at 26° when it was 89° in the store, I had to adjust the thermostat." I keep those coils clean, too. I know by now that if the equipment's going to last at all, it's going to be up to me to do it; and when it fails it'll either be half-@$$ed back together to limp along, or we'll be given some other store's rejected half-dead equipment that I'll have to nurse back to life. 🤬
Restaurant life is hard, specifically on equipment as well as the folks in charge
It’s like the video was meant for me lol. Just replaced a water valve and thermistor on a KM901 today. Good stuff Chris.
I have an old hoshi I rebuilt that has the stainless cube guides, it’s in my garage it’s way too big for as much ice as anyone uses lol, but it was free and only cost me like 300 bucks to fix up, I get the plastic is cheaper and probably easier to make but the stainless makes such nice ice!
Great job Chris great videos has always.
Thanks Bud
Hoshizaki still the number one ice machine in my opinion. Yeah they have issues just like the other manufacturers but I’d still put my money on Hoshizaki. Good video .
The fuse holders for those glass fuses vary greatly in quality, The U.S. and NATO use that style of fuses on key equipment, that style fuse and fuse holder are used in aircraft - they don't fail; Look for MIL SPEC. Shop around, many of those fuse holders sold are junk, often made inexpensively in China. Some of the fuse holders are of good quality. You can't use price as a guide, you have to look at the seller and whether the fuse holder meets specs, the highest is DoD . Standards for MIL-PRF-19207G. Average, ordinary use holders should meet UL 4248 and IEC 60127-5. If they don't meet any of these standards they are likely inexpensive junk. Shop around.
FWIW it looks like the ones supplied by Eaton. I don't know if they make them, but the quality is ok. The bigger potential issue is those crimp-on spade terminals since they make lousy contact in a high vibration environment. I would expect them to at least use machine crimped ones instead of those. They're not very secure.
@@mysock351C --- Vibration resistant connectors are available.
"Insulated Vibration-Resistant Quick-Disconnect Terminals
Terminals Interlock with Each Other
A plastic cover on the barrel provides electrical insulation. Easy to install, connect, and disconnect, yet difficult to shake loose-these terminals interlock with each other to make a secure connection. Use a crimper (not included) to install wire."
@@davidnull5590 I think the main issue is not the actual connection per se, it’s the crimp. These just have the basic oval crimps which are fast, but not very secure and deteriorate more quickly in a wet environment. Better is a “B” style crimp, and they are amicable to having solder flowed in if you really want to make a secure connection/repair. But at the factory they require more skill and time to crimp on an assembly line when wire harnesses are done by hand like these appear to be. A better potential solution would be to use ones that have pre applied solder and flux along with shrinkable shrouds so they can still be easily installed. The whole harness could hen be passed through an oven to solder and seal all the connectors, but it would be another process they would have to develop and perfect, not to mention more money. To be honest I’m kind of taken aback by the actual construction used. It looks very “DIY.”
This unisolated connector on the fuse block right next to the metal casing made me anxious. You really should wrap that thing with tape.
Great job finding that fault!
Thanks
That rear spade terminal is supposed to move on the fuse block. Its spring loaded to take up the gap when the fuses are pushed in when the cap screws down and takes up the small difference in fuse length that could make a gap.
Yeah I realize that but it’s not supposed to pull right out the back of the fuse block….
@@HVACRVIDEOS when it pulls out the back did it not spring back in?
Great Repair, Chris! 🤔👍
Thanks
4:50 These connectors (I think they're called faston) come in various sizes and flavors
2.8mm
4.8 mm ( .187 in ) probably what you have in that machine
6.3 mm ( .25 in ) which is most common
9.3mm or 9.5mm
The crimping part comes in different colors to indicate wire thickness
Red 2-16 AWG; 0.5-1.5mm²
Blue 16-14 AWG; 1.5-2.5mm²
Yellow 12-10 AWG; 4-6 mm²
Thanks for that
I love your videos keep up the good work!!!
Thanks Bud
On the pump when it fails take it out and see if the impeller spins if it doesn't take a small screwdriver and spin it around, you will see part of the plastic cube guide broken off spin the impeller around and you can get that small plastic out. Then reinstall, and it will work as designed
I have ran into that a time or two
I can almost Guarantee Hoshizaki switched from Stainless Steel cube guides to Plastic cube guides to reduce their material costs and thus improve their Profit Margin for the Machines...
I see you wear a silicone ring. When I was a young tech, I was troubleshooting a piece
of equipment. I had power applied to diagnose & as I reached into the cabinet my gold
wedding ring touched the L1 side of a big cap. !MAN! did that spark & arc & hurt like
crazy! From that day on I never again wore my ring.
!
Hope you made a full recovery
I think I spotted you in the wild yesterday morning. Pretty sure I saw you on the westbound 60 just past the 15 just after 7am. Was that you? 😆
Using the Water Pump to drain the water is genius!
Next time you have a freeze up, pull the hose from the water pump and hook a hose with hot water up to it. Evap thawed perfectly in no time.
.187 connector on an open port solder fuse carrier, loose connection from the factory as it should have been a 1/4" QC tab on the fuse carrier to begin with. The style they use is for looping strand wire through and soldering the wire to the tab, the engineers need to revise it already.
I had to work on a reach-in freezer last week - it was a more of a big frigde but don‘t know how to describe it better - that threw me for a loop, because I saw a solenoid valve and my brain was like: „Pump down on this set-up? overkill but if it work.“
Then I saw that we had capillary injection and as it turned out, it was hotgas defrost. I am not sure how common this is, but it was the first time I have seen such a set-up.
Thanks bro 🙏
Thanks
Great video. That fuse block l never like them once you have a problem essentially the smaller connection . l would put a inline fuse holder that push together if you didn’t want to go OEM l have better luck with them .
Thanks for the info
Love that you replace a relay with a contractor and then just call it a contractor the rest of the video. I know it works and it’s a permanent fix. But some other tech is going to work on that thing someday and say ‘why is there a contractor in here’?
Don't know if anyone else mentioned it...but the equipment demands a certain wattage of power to do its thing...if you have a poor connector then the voltage drops...if the voltage drops then the amperage has to go up to get the same wattage to power the equipment...causing melted wires, blown fuses etc. A normal example is if you use a small gauge extension cord with a heavy load...that extension wire gets warm...and maybe a fuse blows...for the same reason.
Lower voltage = higher amperage when resistance is the same. So I was told 50 years ago.
@@halverde6373sounds good to me explains why loads on cars usually hurt more.
I was getting pizza on my way home today, and their dining AC started pouring water through the supply. That was fun
How was the pizza?
@@HVACRVIDEOS Solid stuff. Not Italian Pizzeria levels of amazing, but a good meal for a good price.
I’m a thin crust pizza guy
Get you a pair of ChannelLock 909 crimping tool with cutter. I us them on everything from red to blue to yellow StaCon crimps, both insulated and non. Forget about the insul dies. The non insulated dies on this tool work best. I've even crimped thin gauge solid copper t'stat wire with them without issue. Just hve to double back the end of the wire under he crimp.
The spring in the fuse holder that presses the rear terminal against the fuse probably stopped springing when it got baked before the fuse blew.
Your probably right
yes again ice machine content :)
If its just a loose connection, its probably not overcurrent blowing the fuse, but just overheating causing the fuse to blow just like an overload would
Good point
I just got done working on the same unit lol. My issue was long freeze due to water inlet valve leaking water by which would make it off on long freeze at 60 minutes then have three beep. Fun times lol . Anyways nice video sir
Nice find, thanks for watching
I have a machine out there with plates that has separated, it can’t keep up when it’s used heavily. It’s running but definitely harder to diagnose when something else goes wrong.
Adjusting the float past the OEM parameters will allow a separated evap to still produce, the separation points won't freeze and making it harvest sooner will negate this problem. Clear the check valve, clean the machine, and generally speaking do everything to make it solid before doing things like this to prolong the use of the machine.
Whirlpool ice machines are the better versions for house use. Usually a water valve and the occasional resevoir or recirculation pump that needs replaced. Easiest to work on.
Quallity.Integrity.Tradition
Ice ice baby
shug knight says sup
@@oldcarnocarSnoop DOGG says I took Death Row records from you cuhhh 😅
@@philltafolla
(Edited to fix phone typing) I've responded to two comments suggesting automotive fuses..DO NOT EVER USE AUTO (TYPE ATO) FUSES ON HIGH VOLTAGE! They are only rated up to 32 volts, and cannot handle high voltage AC with its much higher fault currents.
ATO FUSES WILL EXPLODE AND/OR CATCH FIRE IF USED ON AC VOLTAGES ABOVE 32v.
My favorite ice machine I have one ice machine at one of my client run 15 years no compressor change and it's a restaurant that has been busy constant The only thing I replace on it was the water pump no other electrical components no compressor absolutely nothing else The water filter is changed on a regular basis it always have a monthly service
They tend to last longer when properly cared for
Recently retired, never thought I'd say it, I MISS FIGURING STUFF OUT !!! 😢😢
You have to find a new way to exercise your brain now, you need new puzzles
Nice 👍🏽.
Thanks bud
Plastic is cheaper than stainless....cost savings for the manufacturers....makes for more problems for the customer. As a tech....the manufacturer cheaping out....provides for potential for multiple repairs.....but it can still be somewhat frustrating....we are all consumers of products and we want our products to last. They definitely should of stuck with a stainless cube guide. Thanks for the video Chris
I have a First CO. Air Handler that uses one of those with a 5A. I replaced it with a resetable fuse after finding a short on the fan relay and heat sequencer. I agree, not the best way to run a fuse.
Nice pump out trick!
Thanks
SOLUTE CHRIS NEW MEMBER ALEX RCC.
Hi Chris, I'm servicing an older unit that has line leaks at the rear and it at corner. I don't see a way to remove panel or to get up in the corner and can't break the behind wall. Se far I just keep refill every few yr. What's your opinion? Tell the store to condemn it? Thank you.
Is it possible to run a new line-set?
@@Somebody3120 I can't even get behind it and I think it's rear service. They also install soda rack on other side of the back wall so break down the wall is nono
@@pnp9200 Righto. Does the front or top cover come off or is it entirely rear service?
😅 that fuse holder is from the dinosaur days! The problem is when they first made them they would last 100 years.. anything else? How can we cheap in this up? They changed the thickness. They changed the width. They changed the material Used. To the point, they are basically junk, but in the day they would handle double the amperage they were rated for . In 50 years Of modifications, they are junk. I cannot understand why they don’t replace them with a standalone breaker.🤷🏻♂️🤦♂️ Great content, thank you
Thanks for watching
I also use contactors in replacing those relays. Lasts longer in my opinion
I'd tend to agree, in most situations
How are there comments on a video that was just published minutes ago from 17 hours ago?
It was released to supporters first.
@JH-ot5mn yes
Chris you're a very good tech you just don't change the parts you look for why it. failed. On the fuse you could just put a blade fuse in line.
We used a fuse holder with 2 wires built it
Commercial best cube ice machine ever made.
Scotsman makes the best flake or pellet ice.
Industrial is Vogt.
Sounds like you should put a filter or grate over the water pump.
I’ve seen glass fuses blow just from bad connections to them.
For fuses holders. . have you tried using ATO car fuses ? ? tough and easy to use ans there are many values , , ,to choose from. .
You cannot use ATO fuses on high voltage!!! They are for 32volts maximum.
The worst job I ever been on and I got a sinus infection is a freezer power was cut somebody turn up the circuit breaker during covid on the restaurant remain closed for a period of time I think like 3 months customer call me told me the freezer is not working I open the door rotted meat caused me to get a sinus infection worst job ever the bad part is the person is a friend of mine 😞😞
That's awful, glad your better
I though it said "Horizontal ice machine" I need to see this. Hold on a minute. I need to learn how to read LOL
Lol
Lyda Neck
You're wrong about checking the bin stat first. Always check plates for speration first 😂😂😂😂😂
Feel real dumb going through a machine spending $1000 fixing stuff just to have it lock on 60/70 minute freeze cycle and you only have one solder joint left 😂😂😂😂😂
Good point
Terrible that they are using those crappy cheapo fuse holders
866th thumbs up
Replace the fuse holder with automotive fuse.
Standard covered 1/4 connectors and a fuse.
You cannot use auto fuses on high voltage!! They are rated for 32 volts max.
@@mxslick50 Amps are amps. Fuses are rated for amps. That shitty glass fuse is an automotive fuse.
It's use is just for control line safety .
@@halverde6373 And you are full of BS. ALL fuses have voltage ratings as well and for good reason. "That shitty glass fuse" was NOT a standard automotive fuse, it was rated at either 125 or 250 volts. A manufacturer would know better that to use the typical auto glass fuses on ac line voltages.
You are just another typical no content troll who is spreading false and dangerous information. If you are a professional I hope your insurance is paid up, as your attitude is going to get someone hurt or killed someday.
That machine needs to be deported!
Wear gloves.
You are gonna touch loved ones and self. Also BZZZZT.
Good point