2000-2007 Ford Focus Brake Pads and Rotor Change
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- A simple and necessary job that is good to know for any vehicles. Specific tools and hardware required:
- Brake pads
- Brake rotors (recommended to replace at same time)
- 15 mm socket
- 7 mm hexagonal bolt
- penetrating oil
- silicon or lithium-based lubricant to quiet brake noise
Hey Matt. So it's 2023, sitting here with my coffee, bad weather outside but I've got my 2005 Focus tucked into a small shed with a wood stove for staying warm. Plastic over dirt for a floor and plans to "take it all apart." Maybe too rusted to save not sure. Lots of radical interventions to keep this thing on the road. I love this car. And so this car was sort of clean with low mileage purchased for $300. Matched with a 2007 high mileage but super clean Focus and switched out both front and rear suspension elements. The whole thing. Axel and all. And so now ~ There is more rust. Funny about the rust. Never stops. Gonna take it all apart. (again!) No idea if anything can be saved. Such an adventure. You have my attention and I am now subscribed. Thanks so much for posting all of this. ✨🌟🌸👍🌸🌟✨. from New Hampshire.
Rust is always a killer - have lost too many good cars to it! Don’t know if you spotted it, but even did a video on how to go at simple spot rust with a wire brush, which I still keep employed to this stay on our current cars!
yea I've got a bottle of Corroseal that turns the rust black and then you can paint it. We will see. If the mount bolt holes that hold the axle assembly are too rusted then it's game over for me. But I've got two new tires a new battery and a mechanic that knows the car well. I think an effort here is worth it. Thank you. @@MattStephensRich
You use the brake grease on the caliper pins(after cleaning), not on the spring clip. Friction is what holds the clip in place. It's also a good idea to use a little copper anti-seize on all threaded surfaces and where the wheel hub contacts the rotor. Just make sure you don't get any kind of lubricant on the pads or surface of the rotor that contacts the pads.
good tip!
When pushing that brake piston
back in with the C clamp, make sure you first take the cap off on the master cylinder break fluid reservoir in the engine Bay Area.
Exactly, that way you don't put all that extra pressure on the lines and master cylinder.
I was gonna say the same thing. I use a piece of wood across the caliper piston when I do this too. It applies the force from the clamp more evenly.
Always start by removing cap on fluid reservoir, then remove the 2 x 7m Allen bolts from the calliper.push back the piston fully and note any over spill of fluid from the reservoir. Always wire brush all surfaces before restoring in place. Use Copper coat grease on surfaces, but high temp grease on the calliper bolts. No grease is needed on the retaining spring.
great heads up advice, however all of my tools love to hide from me. I can't find the 7mm. I'm sure I have a few of them, I'm going to try a torx bit that seems close. Next will be vicegrips.
Thumbs down for needing an additional Torx bit? Tough crowd.
@@scottpodgorski4102 overkill.
@@scottpodgorski4102 no one cares bro
Appreciate your dropping multiple comments, boosting the algorithm score *before* hitting thumbs down.
Mine has 15 mm caliper bolts but otherwise was the same thanks for the video
Glad it helped!
It’s a great idea to leave the old brake pad on the piston so you can press it in and then remove the pad
good point!
Good point
I've decided to add an update on this job. the Arm he is referring to is the Calliper, the bolts are not 20 mm as he keeps indicating, from memory they are 10 mm bolts, requiring a 17mm socket to remove.,and they are located on the the Calliper holding bracket. The 7 mm Allen wrench is used to remove the calliper from the holding bracket.
I'm not seeming to be picking holes but I know a lot of people looking at this could be misled by the mixed information. Fair play to this guy at least he is trying it himself and let me tell you all if you can do that you will save a lot of cash. I changed my Mercedes rotors and pads and saved myself £600 in doing so.
I am happy to offer advice to anyone if needed. You might find that you cannot easily pushback the piston as indicated because the newer cars have wind back pistons and to add to that they are sometimes left handed and right handed 🤔 they also offer computer auto pushback ( as I found out on my Merc ) but good olde you tube helped me out.
I guess to be clear, this is specific to the Ford Focus; would be pretty dang sure the bolts were 20mm if I said they were. And indeed, piston can be easily pushed back, if using the c clamp I recommended. 😊
I apologize I'm not great at anything that has to do with cars.. but as a female I want to learn. I'll be getting a Ford focus 2002 and I need clarification on the lines... the person working on my car has bled the lines but needs help with making sure it's all hooked up properly...
Ford Focus has an ABS module under the driver's side wheel well, which must be removed for access. It's not really a home shop project to bleed ABS brakes without experience and proper equipment. But 2 experienced techs together with a vacuum bleed pump can do very quickly. The best idea is to avoid the necessity to begin with. Loosening brake fluid to get clearance for service lets air bubbles into the brake lines. The ABS module unfortunately blocks the bubbles from migration to reservoir and now you get a new project. I would have mentioned it in this video, even though he did an ok job. The C- Clamp (not a vise) should always have a block of wood or other media that won't mar the caliper piston and pressure is applied evenly, not just one side. Probably most brake service doesn't require a new rotor. Use logic and discretion but some light grooves aren't terrible. Rotor thickness remaining is important. If you're able to get them turned at the parts store (usually under $10) you should if any grooves are significantly deeper than others.
I like your shorts my Long live Chief wahoo great video simple and easy
Hah! Good quick spot - have had to swap out for Guardians swag since then!
@@MattStephensRich I hate that name guardians
Thanks for sharing, it helped me to understand the process of fixing it
Glad it helped!
Thanks! This was quite helpful. Had some trouble with the caliper bolts but used some WD-40, and a 5 point 15 mm socket and a breaker bar it went free.
glad you were able to get it off!
Great tutorial! However, I have one question. In the video you mentioned using a 20 mm socket, but down below in the description you list a 15 mm socket. Which is it, or both?
Yes! Will need both sockets for two different sized bolts along the way.
Perfect level of detail given, and very clearly explained, thank you! I noticed you said the bolts holding the caliper had a 20mm head, but you said it needed a 15mm bolt, though? I'm guessing that was just a misspeak, and they are actually 15mm? 20 sounds big!
Glad it helped! Pretty sure it’s 20 mm bolt - sorry for the slip up!
@@MattStephensRich I actually just started it last night, and it was definitely a 15mm on my '05.
Now, if only I got the front rotors like I meant to instead of the rear ones...
Love that Lube
once you pop the fun don't stop.
@@MattStephensRich right. Lol
Good vid but safety first. Should be wearing gloves to protect from chemicals. Way too much cleaner used on the new rotors. You only need to spray a little on a rag and wipe the rotor down to remove shipping oils. And have gloves and safety glasses on when working on brakes because things can happen.
Glasses are always on - and while I often start with two pairs of gloves, an ironic moment of filming - need to take the gloves off to start and stop recording 😅 gratefully for this job, the brake cleaner is our only real chemical, which is easily hand washable.
You still absorb really bad chemicals that are not water soluble@@MattStephensRich. Read the SDS on chlorinated and non chlorinated brake cleaner. Is it worth the risk to you that will manifest years down the line possibly? Just for clicks?
@@bennybuddy6852 If people are watching this just for brake cleaner, I'm obviously missing a whole other angle of monetization!
Fair points all round. :)
it's a t45 torx bolts
This video was a big help! Thanks
Glad it helped!
Great quality vid brother, keep at it!
Glad you enjoyed it!
It's called resurfacing the brake rotors, usually $15 each at O'Reillys.
I go to a lower-end area in my city , they do mount/balance $10 and one guy does it for $7 (word of mouth you have to mention who sent you)
My alignment was $65 , not $90 and he turned my rotors $10 each.
Many rotors are cars these days can't even be turned, One could use to get two turns before having to buy new rotors. You can thank the government for this. The emissions and gas miles regulations caused the rotors to become scraped so new ones can be bought. I couldn't have original rotors turned for a Focus, Taurus, or Accord because it would have exceeded specs. Many trucks on the other hand can still be turned. A good set of rotors are not expensive these days. At least not yet.
Might want to mention to make sure not to get lubricant on the pads. I have never seen anyone use lithium grease on the back of brake pads. The actually anti squeak stuff is more of a glue. Also, if you take the guide pins out and take the caliper apart completely, you will have a much easier time.
Is the process the same for a focus with antilock brakes?
Exact same - antilock is standard!
Did you ever do the back breaks??
Nope! Drum brakes are a real pain, so I just did them at the local shop.
I hope he never does back breaking... How would he be able to repair his brakes if he breaks his back?
😅
hi I'm just about to do mine on the front do I absolutely need new rotars
If you’re not getting new rotors, would recommend having them lathed to get a new mating surface/provide proper grip
@@MattStephensRich thanks was just going to swap the pads but found a crack in on of the rotors so had no choice on buying new ones
@@EmeraldDragonsFlame honestly rotors are relatively cheap too, so it's not too much to go for the rotor swap :)
Great video! Thanks :)
You bet!
You say 20mm bolts when it’s a 15mm
Was having a hard time as it was thanks lol
Ah sorry!
There are so many instructional videos on doing this job probably and easily.😉
And the more you respond, the higher CZcams metrics push this video. 😉
Probably? 😂
My secondhand focus has disk brakes on back and front? Does that mean the previous owner changed them?
Very cool! Most likely. What’s the model year?
then it's an SVT
Putting the new pad on why are you sniffling
IDK, maybe it was cold out?
Does this car usually only have 2 front rotors ? I am trying to do this job and figure out what parts I need
Correct - stock has drum brakes in the back!
Matt SR thank you sir, gonna go to advance auto parts today! When I buy the brake pads, it’s normal it comes with 4 even though I will only use 2?
You may have ordered a front and rear rotor set - I’d recommend double checking your order, and returning if necessary so you are only buying 2 rotors with pads :)
Matt SR I got 2 rotors and a total of 4 brake pads, so 2 brake pads per wheel is that correct?
You’re all set!
My brake pads are holding on to the rotars still will they sperate with some persuasion or does the vehicle need to be in neutral or something?
They will indeed separate with some added force. Using a C clamps to clamp it together to create enough force to then release the brake pads or kindly tapping with a mallet can be helpful to see if you can move it around
@@MattStephensRich ok yes the clamp worked and made them much easier to slide off the rotars. Thanks for your tips and amazing video. Helped me do my breaks and I'm still alive!!!! Lol
@@aidanfocused6207 glad to hear it!
How long do you figure this should take?
About an hour a side; possibly a bit longer if it’s your first time.
Will WD-40 work for grease?
WD-40 is actually a degreaser, so would evaporate. Would still recommend using a silicone or white lithium grease to help the new brakes not make squeaking or chatter as they break in.
Use CRC brake grease. A little pricey but will last a long time for multiple brakes jobs. You can also use it for all metal to metal contacts as well as the caliper pins. Really anything with Moly 77 in it good grease.
Just be carefull with those clips they can snap and plug the hole, meaning you will need to drill them out, they can be a pain always have at least one spare, they don't come with the pads, maybe with caliper I'm not sure, anyway it's well worth doing these yourself you can save a fortune 👍👍🇮🇪🇮🇪
Good thought
My pads came with the clips.
It's a calliper not arm, and this is a really arse about face way of doing this job. It's a G clamp not vice 🙄 copper slip grease on the pads is best.
Can’t wait for your instructional video!
Everyone’s a critic 😉.