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Ford F-250 6.7 Front Oil Leak: Easy Fix. Watch before replacing any seals
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2019
- How to fix your leaking 6.7 Liter Ford yourself and save some money.
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Koon Trucking
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Thank you guys for doing this video. My 2016 F250 was leaking so I made an appointment at the dealership until I saw this video. I found my vacuum pump was leaking from the same exact bolt. The fan mount bolts were a pain, but I got it! Took about 3 hours total, since I had never done it before! All fixed! Thanks for saving me some money!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the tip. I just got mine done. I learned you should lay a rag over the crank pulley. I lost a bolt in there. That’s an hour of my life I’ll never get back.
Man..that’s exactly what was wrong with my 2014 F250. Two of the four bolts were backed out..removed, cleaned and lock tight..good to go!
Can’t thank you enough.
Glad to help
Thank you for making the comment "10 Newton-Meters isn't very much pressure". That helped me comprehend how to re-install.
Thank you, I hope this is what I have on my 2014 SuperDuty. Wish me luck, when I get a chance next week I will dig in there and check. Been dreading it's the main seal.
2015 f350 had this exact problem. Bolts were finger tight. I really struggled to get that pulley removed and replaced, but your video saved the day for me. Thanks guys.
Awesome!
Did you do the same process as he did?
I have a 2012 F250 and this oil leak has been driving me bananas for months. I can't wait to do this repair. Thanks for a great video!
Now that’s a good tip to have. I will keep it in the back of my head. It’s amazing how one simple thing can give you a ton of grief.
I know there are alot of us guys out there that have this same problem. Thanks for the great video! I'm super glad I subscribed so this video popped up for me to see it. I've been dealing with this leak since I bought the truck. Now I can try this first to make sure it's not also the oil pan. Thanks again!
Just went outside and tightened the top two with a little 8mm wrench, coulda used my pinky thats how loose they were...
It’s a common problem. Worse case you can follow this video’s instruction and take the vacuum pump off and replace that seal behind it. Not hard at all to do. You can get to all the bolts with a wrench without removing anything just tight get to. If tightening doesn’t fix it then try gasket replacement. Thanks for watching and hopefully you will subscribe
@@KoonTrucking I’m experiencing this with mine currently. Definitely going to see if the bolts are just loose or possible gasket replacement
That helped me mine was leaking oil i thought it was the seal but the bolts was loose i put lock tight and its fixed thanks man goid job
Just fixed my 2015 6.7 same problem. Thank you for your video. I used blue locktite. In case I had to replace the vacuum pump later. 230,000 miles before it started ...
Glad it helped you out!
Thanks! That was the EXACT problem I had. There were 3 finger tight bolts...soaked in oil.
Nice. After I took out each vacuum pump bolt, one at a time, I stuck the red tube of a can of brake clean in the hole and blasted out the internal threads before applying thread locker to the bolt and reinstalling it.
Also, you can get to the top 2 bolts without disassembling anything, so one temporary/partial fix is to do those two bolts now and come back later when you’re replacing the belt anyway to tighten the bottom two bolts.
Some people replace the gasket too, but I didn’t and it was fine.
I've had a light drip for a month. I'll be checking this out when I get home tonight.
what did you find out? I'm having a light drip also and can confirm it's around the vacuum pump
Yeah the rotunda tool was 1,000 for the installer and then you still had to buy the remover and I use to hate changing the water pump on those 6.7s awesome video 👍
Great change of pace with this video. Keep up the good work gentleman.
Hey guys. I bought my first Snap On wrench last weekend. I bought a used FX80 locking flex head at a pawn shop. It needed cleaning but it works good and I paid a lot less than Hamilton charges.
I remember when I got first snap on ratchet and 8 or 9 more.
I like that fix, why ? It didn't cost me a cent!! Lol. Thanks guys!!!!
Its great to see the tools in action that long 14.4 is the deal
My 11 is different in the front. It’s attached to the main fan. Bolts were loose. Oh and 350,000 on original belt. I’m replacing it today.
Man this is what was wrong with my truck
Man thank you for sharing
Appreciate your video
Glad to help
Great video, fixed my oil leak. Yous guys rock!! Thanks
That’s awesome man. Glad it helped
New subscriber here GUYS!!!!
I Cant stop watching your videos. Especially when Hamilton pulls up with the his Snap on truck. Friday's is the best day of the week. Wild bill your funny man. Wally clean your tools after you use them. LoL I'm kidding. Mr koon. Great videos, one of my favorites channels to watch. keep it up.
Thank you for watching. We truly appreciate it.
Koon Trucking thanks for the video but I have a cuestión and you may help me
How many ft lbs on the screws?
Thanks
Yo. Def a great direction for your channel. Thanks for these. Def do more of these.
Thank you so much for sharing this information. Like the others, I thought my leak was the seal or timing cover. After seeing this video, I checked and found the backed out bolts just like you predicted. I didn't make flat rate oh the job but did get it done in one afternoon.
Haha glad it could help !
Good video! I just looked at my truck and noticed it’s also leaking so thanks for info
The strawberry jelly comment made me laugh. In my younger days I worked in a shop that were we overhauled a lot of the old 2 stroke Detroit’s. We used a lube on the head bolts that all the old timers called peanut butter. Lol
Haha must have been Duraplate No.105
Haha. No, it’s actually Detroit’s International Compound #2. If you google it, it actually comes up as peanut butter. LOL
We think that is what is wrong with our 2015 f250 can't wait to see 😀
This help my oil leak as well. Thought it was the seal and see it’s not I look front oil leak and hind this video and find the bolts loose. Fix it and good to go. Thanks
“Our way to fix it specs” 😂🔥🔥
Thank you so much this was exactly my problem you saved me no telling how much money mine and my wife’s 2011 both had this issue thanks again justin
Thanks Koon Trucking for more great content!!!Y’all need to smash that 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Another great video!
Thank You Koon Trucking
Hello.
I just wanted to say thank you. I thought my main crank seal was shot , or the upper oil pan gasket.
I did the same thing as your video described. Sure enough my bolts were all loose.. i only drove it about 15 miles , and it seems to not be dripping ,or leaking. I got home and went under the truck. I found a little oil drips. Hoping its just residual oil that I couldn't reach to clean.
If this is it , which i hope and think it was. Thanks again. Saved me some money, and gave me some great tips and info.
Steve A.
That’s awesome. Glad the video helped you out and saved you some money too! Appreciate you giving the feedback, it’s always nice to hear !
I bought the Ford extended warranty for $3200 and they're fixing it, along with my backup camera and power mirror that also stopped working with less than 80k miles. Mine is also a 2014.
My buddy owns a 2016 F350 with the same engine and problem so he did a little research and then told me about this video and asked if I would help with fixing the leak/weep problem. Well, I said OK and he had also bought a serpentine belt just figuring that while we were in there, we might as well install a new one---old one was OK, but it did have a tad over 100k miles on it. I suggested that he take a bunch of good pictures of the belt routing so we'd have something to look at when putting the new one in, but then I suggested he look to see if his owner's manual had a routing diagram in it and it DID, so we just skipped the pictures. Well...the whole deal was no problem until we re-installed the serpentine belt CAREFULLY FOLLOWING THE DIAGRAM IN THE MANUAL and finding that we had about 4 inches too much belt! Hmmmm--double and then triple checked the manual against the way we routed it....we had done it right (according to the pic in the manual) and double checking the lengths of the old vs. the new belt (identical!) but still had the extra inches--a few extra inches may be kinda nice in some other "applications", but DEFINITELY NOT IN THIS ONE!! I'm thinking "Something is SCREWED UP HERE!" (experience speaking quite loudly). So I re-watched this video looking carefully at were the belt was in the very beginning and then looking at another buddy's identical truck to see where his bet was routed. Hmmm---the video AND the other (unmolested) had the routing different than THE DAMNED FORD OWNER'S MANUAL for mu buddy's truck showed it, so we changed it to be like the "evidence" showed and GUESS WHAT?? PERFECT...it went right on the first try and worked perfectly! Sooo--the DAMNED FORD MANUAL has it wrong (2016 truck and OEM manual!) CAUTION, GUYS----FORGET THE FACT THAT THERE IS A DIAGRAM IN THE FORD MANUAL and take some good pics if you are going to remove and then replace the belt!! We spent about 2 hours puzzling over this problem, making the whole damned job a tad over 3 1/2 hours long!!
I learned a LONG time ago if it has a belt on it take pics or draw a diagram ! Haha glad the video helped out !
@@KoonTrucking Yeah, me too! I've been to this rodeo several times in the past, and should (actually DO) know better, but since this time there was a diagram right there in the FORD fer cryin' out loud MANUAL, I didn't push him to take pics. I KNOW BETTER, but let that danged manual thing lull me into the brain dead zone! And I'd guess you know this, but being able to look at a whatever on a video before (or sometimes, like in this case, AFTER) diving into that whatever is ALWAYS a help in some unexpected way or another.
Wow! Looks like I've got work to do - haha! Time to go to work (like you said) - Thanks much.
great video, i have oil traveling all the way down and at first glance, i thought it was the oil pan seal, or oil cooler. but oil is coming from a different source. it doesnt drip to the ground but defiantly going to be checking this. thank you!!!
Update please? i have the same problem
@@santiagogutierrez3591 update from either of you
Great video saved me a lot of money
Thank you for leaving a comment and letting us know it helped you out! Much appreciated
Thanks Kool Trucking. Totally free
The bill Dozer cracks me up!
I have an oil leak on lower front left side of engine disassemble found one bolt little loss on vacuum pump all others were tight no oil leak from pump gasket area went ahead and replaced
gasket reassemble pressure washer front of engine most likely it's going to be oil pan area front of pan that means major work for another day
Like always great video 👌 👍👌 keep them coming just wondering do you ever do any videos on clush replacing and adjusting
It's good to know thanks for the info wish you do more video's like this
Man you are great right on the money thanks
Thanks for the video I appreciate it.
Great video thanks for the tip.
Great video like these how too’s
Check our our playlist truck fixing there’s lots of them
This is a really helpful video.. But did you know that the very bottom bolt you guys pulled out of the vacuum pump itself (the 8 mm bolt) looked different than the other 3 bolts that you pulled out of the vacuum pump??. It was different and thats because it was one of the timing cover bolts, it wasnt the vacuum pump bolt.. Im not even joking.. The reason I know is because I accidentally did the exact same thing.. The culprit of all the leaking bolts was the timing cover bolt😂. It is easy too get them mixed up and it is also a 8 mm bolt. You can't see it because its on bottom and that makes it easy too get em mixed up... Am I the only one that caught that???😂
It is easy to fix
Too= also, so if "also" does not fit in sentence, it is the wrong to/too/two
Two=2
I hope this helps for when to use to, too, or two. Learning is a lifelong process for us all. Keep on truckin'! Peace.
I wish I would have found this video last week. I just had my vacuum pump leak fixed at a shop and it cost me $256. I thought the upper oil pan was leaking.
Thank you for the video
Nice video guys!!! Thanks for sharing.....
I always like to look at these kind of videos....a lot of the time, I am wanting to see the "parts" and techniques before I go diving into something and it really helps to be able to see what is where, etc. NOT TO MENTION that these are some real nuggets of ideas in the videos!!
Currently searching for my leak culprit. Hopefully it's this . 🤞
Great video. Good tip if i had a ford. Is this the ford that you have to take the cab off to do head work?
Thanks for this video
Awesome guys!
Awesome tip. Crappy design on fords part
Thanks!
great video! I noticed you had the belt partially off, is it fairly straight forward to put back on ?
Yes it’s simple
Thanks for the great video. My daughter's 2016 is leaking so did my friends 2016. No other disassembly to get to the bottom bolt?
Nope
@@KoonTrucking What did you use to get to the bottom left bolt on the fan pulley bracket? 3" extension?
Lemme git this right.......they guy that's always dropping and losing tools is saying that Bill lost his mind???
Just to make it Official, I knocked a mid-deep 13 mm socket of of a wrench during the fix and we NEVER found it!! A TOTAL MYSTERY as to where that thing went after using flashlight, magnets and a BUUUUUNCH of "blue" language! AAARRGHH!!
I got the top three tight- one very loose- but cannot get to bottom 4th one. You indicated all 4 could be reached without moving belt/pulley etc. Any tips on reaching the 4th?
no gasket replacement needed? just retorque with loc-tite?
They just wiggle out from the vibration. Should have had loc-tite on them from the factory but didn’t.
can you please give me the link to a video of front cranck seal replacement on a 6.7 power stroke, thanks
Thank you!
My Ford Dealer told me they would have to remove the entire cab ! and pull the engine to repair this oil leak . They estimated it would cost $4,500 !!!!!!!!
Ouch !
Isn't there a gasket or something that needs to be replaced?
At least it wasn't hard to get at and fix. The red jelly will keep it backing out
u best believe that i put lock tight on the bolts before they went back in.
Yes indeed
Who makes the best universal joint impact set for a 1/2 in drive impact. A set that is actually worth the money
Hands down Gearwrench X Core (pinless) worth every single penny !
Koon Trucking thanks I couldn’t decide on which brand was it’s true value
Matco pinless better than the Taiwan xcore from gearwrench and the matcos are usa made
35ft lb for that idler?
Which torque wrench did you use?
Quick question did you replace A gasket or add a seal or any type of sealant? Or was this simply lock thread and re-tighten? Thank you
Just tighten.
Clay... how many of them have y’all done ?
Hey guys- I followed the procedure and reinstalled the bolts one-by-one with thread locker and torqued to 10N-m. I also torqued the 5 bolts on the pulley bracket to about 35 ft-lbs. I used 35 because I couldn't find a spec so I used 35 as a mid value for a M-10 bolt from my Haynes manual. Everything went back to gather , but when I started her up I now have a constant leak. too much to drive anywhere. Any thoughts? I replaced the 4 one-by-one so I never cracked the seal on the rear of the pump.
Seal maybe bad or pinched
@@KoonTrucking Thanks for the tip- I plan on tearing it down again tomorrow and will report back
@@KoonTrucking Second try today. I must be the lone dubass on your chanel. What I found was that I had grabbed the wrong 8mm bolt on the lower driver's side. I think what happened was that when I torqued the other three leaving the fourth bolt loose resulted in a large leak. I retorqued all four bolts this time and now now leaks. Thanks again for the tips. you got me rolling again on Monday. Also what I found was that a long handle 3/8 drive and inspection mirror are critical for success on this job.
Is this the same for a 2012 model?
Not the red loctite! Should’ve used blue medium strength for sure
Is there a reason you didn’t just replace the gasket why you had it all broken down? Seems like that would have been a good idea? Maybe customer wanted a “as cheap as possible” repair?
The bolts being loose is the issue not the gasket. I could have replaced the gasket and wasted the customers money in it but this has been a repair we have seen many many many times. 99% of the time when you see the leak this is where it’s coming from and why.
@@KoonTrucking awesome, thanks!
Why Red locker ?
Wouldn't Blue be the better choice in case U have 2 replace V-Pump?
We took one out and it wasn’t bad at all. They always back out
How long does this take roughly?
Blue locker!!!
did that for sure fix the leak?
Yes sir
@@KoonTruckingso def need to use locktite for threads?
What torque wrench are you using? I need one like that. Thanks
10 Nm 7.38 ft-lb
Red loctite a little to much on those little bolts?? Feel sorry for the next guy.
We pulled one back out it wasn’t bad
Shouldn’t u replace the o-ring for the vacuum pump???
It was leaking because the bottom bolt was out (well almost out) they back themselves off and it was sticking out about 1/8” most of the time it isn’t the seal that fails it is the bolts coming loose, as in this case.
First comment again
Whats the foot pound to torque the bolts
10 Nm 7.38 ft-lb
also. You should go into the camera and make the focus point the entire screen. So it will focus all that it's seeing.
If you do that then it’s too dark It’s a dslr
@@KoonTrucking Brotha. That's not what the focus setting does. You're thinking exposure. Look for the button on the back that has kind of a bullseye and see if you can set it to select all the bullseyes.
Ponyo3816 sir I hate to tell you but when you have a canon camera and you have it on multi point focus instead of single focus and you are shooting a repair video where you have to have light to see inside an engine bay it has to compensate for the the light to dark areas which affects you focus. Remember you are using a 600 linen light or more on things that are black and in most cases flat black the camera can not process that much and it gets things too dark. I have run a camera a long time. I don’t have a bunch of fancy equipment I just shoot CZcams videos. I don’t set up a bunch of lights and all that and run like a film crew. I can’t I have a shop and business to run and just do this for fun.
Does the seal need to be replaced?
As you seen in the video the bolts were just loose letting it leak. If your seal isn’t torn and the bolts are just loose, then tighten them up. There was no tricks in the video, you seen just tightening them up and adding locktite fixed this truck
👍🏼
What’s the torque spec?
I think he said 89 foot pounds.
@@nbco55 oh hell no. Maybe inch pounds
You guys are funny jajajjajaJaj
Have y’all ever thought about getting a lift?
Yes we plan on it
“There’s an ol seal”
Damn Ford is so cheap they can't even put any sealant on the bolts! Just use some Detroit or Permatex anaerobic sealant, if it'll seal the front cover on a Series 60, it'll seal anything! I'm like grandmaw, I use that shnit on everything!
Friends don't let friends drive Fords. My neighbor made the mistake of parking his 2018 f-250 power stroke on my new concrete driveway. I literally shamed him into scrubbing my driveway with a brush and soap and water to get the oil stains off. He parks on the street now.
How do you know when it's time to change the oil in a Powerstroke? When it stops leaking on your driveway. Lol.... (Owner of 2012 6.7) :(
Really, put a gasket on it. They are like 20 dollars. It's a sheet metal gasket that is rubberized. Always replace it. And blow the holes out of with brake clean.
As a diesel tech, it pains me to watch video's like this. You went all that way to pull bolts and add lock-tite?.....WHY THE HELL would you not replace the cheap gasket behind the vacuum pump. Once oil leaks past that gasket, it will again. That's just crazy not to replace the gasket while your already there.
Yep , I agree. 31 year retired Ford tech.
What happened to the swearing and cussing, throwing wrenches and rachets across the shop? You can't cut the good stuff out of the video.
i though you had to pull the cab on every ford to fix anything on them