I’ve been in the shop for 40 years. Now, I program in Fusion and mill A2, 4140, 316 all day and still I need to watch you every day. Very few people in my life have impressed me like you have with your focus, forethought and knowledge. You’re intense and unbelievable. Thank you !
I've never operated a lathe or mill in my life but watching people with this level of skill work is mesmerising. This guy is an excellent teacher, any apprentice would be lucky to work with him.
I never would have thought the magnets would make that big a difference. Or they would hang on with that rpm. Good info. I've learned several things with this video and the other one where your roughed out the parts. Thank you.
I don't think anyone has place to complain about the presence or color of the coolant; I know it takes a heap of time to film and edit these and we woul all do well to be grateful for it.
You can hear the difference in the ringing, especially with the rubber and the magnets. The ringing is lower pitched and dies off much quicker. Good demonstration. I’ll try it the next time I have that problem.
Peter,. This was great. I followed what you did with the steady in the last one and thenshowing another way is superb. I had not ran an automated steady only manual ones on cnc. Your stuff is solid. You spend the right amount of time for all the right reasons without excessive bs. Precision rains down when the basics are taken care of. Keep the work rolling out. Thank you, Phil
Thanks for showing the offset page,I always waiting for your videos,and the idea of support thr part with rubber is unique.a very good lesson for all cnc machinist.
I just want to say a big thank you for putting this content out there, I work with the same machinery you have and it's fantastic to see the way someone else does things. It's also nice to see real work being done with a one take video!
Once again great content. Reminds me to stay humble for complaing about how I was having trouble for a deburring tool on a 4th axis earlier. And your coolant isnt dirty. It's just well used :)
32:03 I definitely hear a big difference! There's much less resonance with the high density rubber pads/stud/joint connector arrangement. I would also think that it's absolutely worth taking the time to do whatever you can to dampen resonances and vibrations from your parts, if your after the best surface finishes possible.👊👍
Awesome video, interesting to hear about all of those small details. Hope I get to a point where I have some of my own measuring instruments, tools, equipment etc that nobody else touches.
Peter, I love how all kind of people have better ways of doing things yet I don't see them with their own machines making even remotely similar parts! Most people just don't understand what goes into the job and how much effort goes into making a video, especially while trying to do a job. If people don't like your coolant I invite them to purchase a machining/turning center and run "clear kool-aid" in it for the viewers pleasure. Keep up the great work and I look forward to your next video! Paul
really enjoyed this series, hope your price reflected the multiple set ups necessary. I'm sure it did, but sometimes it can be difficult to convey this to the customer. esp. when they are unsure of all the dimensions. Thanks Peter!
Here in the uk you spend 5 years with the same person....generally an old timer with 50 plus years in the game 4 days a week on the shop floor shadowing him absorbing everything he says 1 day @ college....Never forget my 1st day.. On the job.....soon realised God wasn’t in heaven he was a machinist @ Rolls Royce.
@@chrisyboy666 That's how it used to be , and how it should be . but things have changed drastically over the years .nearly all machining nowadays is CNC with youngsters fresh out of college that can set up and program these type machines . but can't hand sharpen a twist drill .
The toolchange only working at horizontal and a specific clock is probably so if if the machine is about to do a automatic tool change and something went wrong, it won't drop the tool. Nice work on these parts
I made a comment on your last video and asked if it was the stress that was throwing it out of round.. I have to apologize . I didn’t realize that the end in the check was a saw cut end. I thought it was faced and pushed flat in the chuck. Love the channel, always learn some when watching. Keep up the great videos.
Another great intuitive video Peter thanks. Don’t listen to numb nuts, I’m English and can clearly hear and try to understand everything you say. Keep up the good work. 👌
Love your videos you are very smart. Can you make a video showing how you machine the taper on your jaws with those radius’s on them and describe the angle and the radius you put on them please I’ve always wanted to know what angle and radius to put on them. Thank you in advance and keep the videos coming I love watching them.
I think one of things that people also need to understand, is large parts like these also release stress as they are machined. Especially when the cross sectional area drops significantly. Plus, usually the harder the material, the more it takes off while machining. I work with ALOT of thinner stainless parts (316), but they are from 16-22 Ø, and after even minor amount of material removal, they need to be left to cool to room temp and on especially long parts, left overnight for stresses to work their way out Awesome video, still wish i had the Mazak. haha Stay safe, Peace
Cool ideas for the resonance dampening with he rubbers and magnets. I think Haas lathes have a feature built in to do automatically what you said about the playing with the speed manually. When we used to turn long and thin parts (much smaller diameters of course, something like 1/4 inch or so) we would sometimes hold them by hand with a stick or a piece of plastic, following the tool to prevent the chatter, not something very safe and i don't recommend doing that of course :)
Yes I have done the stick thing myself. But on this machine it won’t run with the doors open. You are correct Haas has a feature that varies the speed/feed to damp vibration. This machine is to old for stuff like that. I wish it had it.
I think I get why the magnets help. It's not because they are magnets (that helps because they stick without help). It's because the way you position them, by hand, it's not exactly symmetrical, so they prevent resonances from lasting longer. You basically create destructive interference between the sound waves in the metal and they quickly die out.
Peter, putting a 1.50" dia fixed post(bolted -secure) and mchined in place(same height} could serve as support and consistent 'shoulder' for the flange to bump into. This may also speed up squaring the flange , setting the Z-axis work offset only once and possibly serve as the anti vibration too. Just a thought but I am a really an avid follower and so thankful for your sharing here. Maybe a similar sleeve at the end of the shaft will help arrest whipping of the part inside the spindle bore..? God bless you.
My level of machining is snapping the tools first use in my sherline lathe with mill column. It's amazing I can almost feel this man's unbelievable skill. A true craftsman (I'm a union carpenter by trade guess i should say true master Machinist?) Lol
Great tutorial on indicating and setting up. I do hope though that when you finish turned those spindles you dressed the center in the end so it was concentric again. I mean it isn't needed but it sure is nice for the next guy.
I personally find your videos really fascinating and in some way relaxing (No doubt just the opposite to you, re relaxing.) My machining experience and knowledge has really been added to/too/two by enjoying your work or should it be an ART form? The largest component I have recently turned was originally a 23mm in dia. billet of dialuminium required, for a small `crowned` pulley for a friends belt sander tool. But the principals are just the same whatever diameter the component being. Basics are basics and if one does not understand them, well?? A `thou is a Thou` whatever the size of the component, clearance is constant.. Take care. Thank again.
The aluminium sleeve not only protects the part and the jaws but it also allows the parft to wiggle in the jaws. Would there be no aluminium sleeve, You wouldn't be able to knock the workpiece around.
Just a question coming from a machinist. Have you ever used a drill in the live tooling and rotated the C-axis at the same time? I’ve was told this will produce a very straight and concentric hole but have never had the opportunity to try it. Your thoughts? Thanks for the videos.
I have never done this but the principle is sound. Back in my gun manufacturing days. The man that drilled and riffled our barrel blanks. He made precision match riffle blanks. He drilled them by rotating the drill and the blank at the same time.
I knew someone would correct me on this. When I’m making videos my mind goes blank. Unlike some content creators I don’t do retakes. I think it makes things sound unrealistic or rehearsed. That’s like a previous comment suggesting I should get a speaking coach. That is something I would never do. Thanks.
What i do on some of my jobs is i face and turn one end enough to clean up then flip the part chuck up on the turned end so the part wont move on me and or go out of round or not as bad depends of the material i use.
You comment about the mazatrol and teach when you set your offset. i agree my old mill with m32 mazatrol is reverse - when you teach an offset you tell it where THE OFFSET it compared to your current location - not WHERE your tool/spindel is compared to the offset you want. I agree with you peter its the opposite way on other machines haha
I think the people that made the Mazatrol were thinking from where the tool is to the part zero. They are thinking in a incremental direction. That would be positive in this case. They probably are software designers and not machinists. In our case we would think the tool is setting at minus 1.5" in Z. So if we told the control that it would place the zero accordingly. I think my little Haas lathe in the garage works opposite to this. But than when your programming in Mazatrol. Everything in Z minus is positive numbers.
They should make a seri4s of videos presented by you that gets played to middle school students. Some would be inspired and maybe we wouldn’t lose some of these critical skills,
you can make a i micron filter cartridge with a piece of pipe some hose and a small turbine water pump from home depot to filter and reconditioning your coolant
Excellent, as always! Just for my personal understanding of machining in the US: What pricing range (ballpark) and lead time are we talking for 3 pcs of this part? Im also a small business owner (electrical engineering, mostly for construction equipment) and Im astonished that you find time to spare, for making these great videos for us to enjoy. All the best from Switzerland.
There were actually four parts in this order. The customer picked up the first one to check the assembly. But to answer your question without going into detail. I did the job in a total of six days (including making the videos). But because of the extreme weather and power outages here in Houston. It actually took a week longer. As to financial I only spent around $200.00!on tooling because I already had everything else. And I made around $140.00 a hour for my time. But in this case it’s a little hard to tell because of all the interruptions because of the power outages at the time. Here in Houston it is easy to acquire materials such as this. This material was delivered the next day sawed to length. Thanks hope that helps.
Yes that could be possible. But I would like the jacks closer to the chuck jaws. Are you familiar with Robin Renzetti he has some videos on chucks he modified just like that.
@@EdgePrecision no i haven't seen his videos but I'll def be goin down that rabbit hole now. Thanks for doing what you do. I actually worked for you in the early 2000s when Mauro Garcia was the mill supervisor at Edge. Keep bringing the top shelf content 👍🏼
Peter, sure would be nice if you could enable captions for those of us who have severe hearing loss. Can read lips fairly well... when I can see them! 👂💋👀
I would love to do this. But I don’t know how. Something I will have to look into. Sorry. I appreciate your comment it gives me something to work on. Thanks!
@@EdgePrecision I may be wrong, but I think that there is a check box titled 'Enable Auto Captions' on your CZcams video editor page when you upload your content.
Good info Peter. I'm curious that you don't machine deburr your holes and other details at times. It's something I've taken to doing in the last couple years.
On this few parts it takes more time to program, set up and prove out the operations. Also there is always the chance of a mistake just to save a few minutes of deburr time. When your dealing with a lot of parts or inexpensive material. Than OK, but it just isn’t worth it to me.
If you faced it and turn a clean diameter that might help with the first roughing a little. But after the part bows in roughing the face you turned would no longer be square. So if you wanted to maintain that you would have to do it again after roughing. Now That could be a process. Rough the face and OD as you say. Than turn the part around. Rough the part. Turn the part around again with the flange end toward the tail center and chuck (changing jaws) the very end of the shaft. Supporting it on the steady rest behind the flange somewhere. Re skim the face and OD still leaving stock. Than turn around again (changing jaws again) chuck the OD of the flange like I did here get the part running true. Reclaim the center drill if necessary. Than finish the rough close to finish size. Than skim for the steady rollers and machine a start hole for the drill also turning the chamfer so it all runs true (I should have done it this way in the video). Than drill and finish as I did in this video. But is that really any better? You see any initial face won’t remain square after roughing. Ask me how I’m know this. Because I tried it that way on other parts in this same order. I don’t want to be, like I won’t hear any other ideas. I tried to explain this to another commenter. That I tried it. But sometimes you all (Not meaning you but global you) sometimes are so sure in your ways you won’t listen. That I tried it already. Again I appreciate all comments and please understand I’m not picking on you in any way.
@@EdgePrecision There's always more than one ways to skin a cat. I indicate my center drills to the chucks 0. A live tool center drill could possibly be off in x or y but I'm running a conventional turret. That machine is pretty crazy! I've mainly been around fanuc and okuma controls.
He made a super fancy go pro case with air blowing in front of the case glass , but beyond a point it doesn't work . High pressure coolant is too much for the thingy .
The reason I did it this way. I was going to chuck the first operation in the serrated hard jaws and tighten them tight so the part wouldn't move. I was only chucking on to about .750" length of this big piece of material. There wasn't a lot of stock on the bars OD. So in order not to have dents from the hard jaws serrations in the flange end. I elected to not turn the stock first.
I wanted to indicate the back of the flange to make sure. Not just depend on the jaws. You saw how it changes when I adjusted the jaws. Just to be sure. Also I already had the jaws. A set of soft jaws for this chuck costs around $300.00. Not a insignificant sum.
@@vishrutvora2465 I think they just use 1018 steel bar for the jaws. Each jaw weighs about 25 lbs. So four jaws 100 lbs of steel plus the machine work.
Because for four parts it takes more time than deburr. Also the drawing doesn’t call for them. And there is always the risk of a mistake. If you are starting with a $1500.00 piece of material. A mistake just isn’t worth it.
@@EdgePrecision ah alright i see. I usually program in .005-.01 edge breaks on everything i can in my programs but thats higher production, not small quantities like this work. Thanks for the response.
How do you command the milling spindle to index a lathe tool at the B90. Position? And do you use different work offsets for the same tool? Great job BTW !
You set up two different tools with different index and clamp angles. Than all you have to do is change to the tool you want. With a M6 T#. The machine automatically indexes it at the tool change. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks! My right arm and shoulder hurt if I try to lift something heavy quickly. The other day I lifted the case my camera gear is in into the truck. I think the case probably weighs about the same as a full 5 Gal pail of oil. I swung it off the ground with my right arm,to throw it on the seat. That really hurt my shoulder. Prior to that accident that would not have bothered me. So I have to be careful with that.
Hello Peter , mind if i ask if everything is ok in Texas ? 'cause i've heard there was some low temps , power outage and extreme electricity bill spikes . Also , nice demonstration as always . The C axis indicating is really neat . I've seen it a few times (on your channel of course), but i think i've finally started to understand it . ps.: hope the shoulder is doing well .
Everything is OK now. We had our power out for two days in the coldest weather. That froze and burst two of the pipe in my house and caused some water damage. I have shown a few posts on Instagram. After the power sort of came back on there was rolling power outages. On for 4-6 hours off for 4-6 hours for the rest of the week last week. It started around Saturday night and finished on Friday a almost a full week. Some people who had variable rate plans got hit with enormous bills. like in the $14,000 range. I'm not sure how that works. I think the governor is trying to get the power company's to take care of it. We shall see. It doesn't seem right when they caused the problem.
Why not support the piece with the steady rest or center while you loosen the chuck jaws slightly and allow the part to relax on center? Then tighten the jaws and verify that the chucked end runs true. Otherwise, I would be concerned that the perpendicular faces are no longer perpendicular to the axis.
On this machine the tail center is a hydraulic quill. This can’t be extended without some force on it. If (as I showed in the video) the end of the part isn’t faced square. It will force this out of square face up against the face of the chuck jaws. And even if this seems OK with the tail center engaged in the center drill. When I retract the tail centers quill the part would deflect du to the strain of trying to be forced flat on the Un square end. I’m not exactly sure what you are referring to about un squareness of the faces? If the part is finished (with no stress du to the chuck) turned all in one setting everything will be square and perpendicular. If I did as you suggest (because of what I previously described) there would be stress introduced into the part. So when Un chucked this stress would be relieved and than things could be out of square.
@@EdgePrecision When you turned the part originally, all of the faces were perpendicular to the rotation axis. When you removed and re-installed the part, this is no longer necessarily true unless the part's center line is exactly on the machine's rotation axis. An indicator near the chuck allows you to establish one point of the part's center line on the rotation axis, but this still allows the remote end to whip around the rotation axis verifying that the faces (that are perpendicular to the center line) are not yet perpendicular to the rotation axis. Since the hydraulic center precludes using that to center the remote end, I would try to use the steady rest to center the remote end while loosening the chuck's grip momentarily. This would allow the faces to relax perpendicular to the rotation axis. An alternate approach would be to indicate the large face itself near the edge to establish that it is perpendicular to the rotation axis.
@@byronwatkins2565 the part had another .25” turned off it. It doesn’t matter if it ran true the second time it was chucked. Everything was recut as if the first time. As long as everything cleaned up. The center was reclaimed when the hole was drilled and bored on the end of the part for the tail center to run in.
From Waco here. Did you come through The Great Texas Freeze OK/ Power, water, no broken hips? My brother is in an old folks home in Pearland and the place had no power and water for 2-3 days.
We had no power for two days. During the coldest time. Everything in my house is gas but with no power the blowers don’t run. But we could cook. So no heat. This causes pipes to freeze and burst. Of which we had two. But we did have water until that. Than I had to turn it off. Now in Houston you can’t find a single copper pipe fitting to repair said pipes. I am thinking to machine some to repair those pipes (Might make good video content). Right now I have it kind of jury rigged with heater hose and hose clamps. So except for the water damage to the house everything is almost back to normal. Thanks!
@@EdgePrecision I was going to ask a similar question regarding holding the part in soft jaws on the large diameter with a step machined for clearance when drilling,which would have eliminated ringing and ease of set up.Is it because it wasn't worth machining soft jaws for the qty.of work?
Yes that could be done. You just have to be carful not to tighten them to much to distort the shape of the part. So it springs back after you release them. If you are intending them to stop vibration. Sometimes metal against metal isn’t as good as a softer material such as plastic, rubber or even lead.
On the Mazak it displays the position in relation to the tool it thinks is in the spindle, tool tip. In relation to the default fixture offset G54. If you need it to a different fixture offset you need to call that offset in a MDI. When you hit reset it will revert to G54.
One of the advantages of a manual 4-jaw chuck is the travel range of the jaws. This makes it possible to get by with fewer top jaws. Looking at my jaw shelf I would say I have less than 20 sets of jaws for this chuck, and that includes the hard jaws. I do modify old jaws if I know I will not be running the same job again. These are bib jaws that go on this chuck. A set costs between $200-300 dollars depending on the size. So I try to use the old ones first.
I built complete guns. It was a reproduction of a German Luger in stainless steel. Or to be more correct I did the machine work on them. We made over 22,000 of them.
My wrench has Titan on it. Do a search for Titan 3/4 extendable watcher wrench. There are many they appear to be the same wrench just branded with different names.
I’ve been in the shop for 40 years. Now, I program in Fusion and mill A2, 4140, 316 all day and still I need to watch you every day. Very few people in my life have impressed me like you have with your focus, forethought and knowledge. You’re intense and unbelievable. Thank you !
I've never operated a lathe or mill in my life but watching people with this level of skill work is mesmerising. This guy is an excellent teacher, any apprentice would be lucky to work with him.
I think we are the apprentice :)
Thank you Peter for sharing. If you hosted an Integrex school I would come because I learn something new every time.
I never miss any of your videos. I really like the live vibe (not scripted) good luck in all your future endeavors.
Peter, Your methology and thought process has taught me so much about CNC machining. You are the MASTER.
I never would have thought the magnets would make that big a difference. Or they would hang on with that rpm. Good info. I've learned several things with this video and the other one where your roughed out the parts. Thank you.
I don't think anyone has place to complain about the presence or color of the coolant; I know it takes a heap of time to film and edit these and we woul all do well to be grateful for it.
You can hear the difference in the ringing, especially with the rubber and the magnets. The ringing is lower pitched and dies off much quicker. Good demonstration. I’ll try it the next time I have that problem.
With the magnets you change the resonance frequency of the part. Rubbers and magnets works like a dynamic damper. Very good video.👍
Best machining videos on YT.
Peter,. This was great. I followed what you did with the steady in the last one and thenshowing another way is superb. I had not ran an automated steady only manual ones on cnc. Your stuff is solid. You spend the right amount of time for all the right reasons without excessive bs. Precision rains down when the basics are taken care of. Keep the work rolling out. Thank you, Phil
Peter hopefully everything is good on your homefront
Thanks for showing the offset page,I always waiting for your videos,and the idea of support thr part with rubber is unique.a very good lesson for all cnc machinist.
Thank you Peter for posting this video! I really appreciate the detail that you go through. Learning all the time. :-)
I just want to say a big thank you for putting this content out there, I work with the same machinery you have and it's fantastic to see the way someone else does things. It's also nice to see real work being done with a one take video!
Once again great content. Reminds me to stay humble for complaing about how I was having trouble for a deburring tool on a 4th axis earlier. And your coolant isnt dirty. It's just well used :)
Thanks for posting your videos. It elevates my spirits to watch you work.
Thanks for bringing us along, sir!
Hope your shoulder is getting back to normal.
32:03 I definitely hear a big difference! There's much less resonance with the high density rubber pads/stud/joint connector arrangement. I would also think that it's absolutely worth taking the time to do whatever you can to dampen resonances and vibrations from your parts, if your after the best surface finishes possible.👊👍
Muy buen trabajo..como siempre ejecucion impecable y profesional..un placer seguir tu canal..un saludo y mucha salud
¡Gracias de nuevo TR Precision!
Awesome video, interesting to hear about all of those small details. Hope I get to a point where I have some of my own measuring instruments, tools, equipment etc that nobody else touches.
Peter,
I love how all kind of people have better ways of doing things yet I don't see them with their own machines making even remotely similar parts! Most people just don't understand what goes into the job and how much effort goes into making a video, especially while trying to do a job.
If people don't like your coolant I invite them to purchase a machining/turning center and run "clear kool-aid" in it for the viewers pleasure.
Keep up the great work and I look forward to your next video!
Paul
The Integrex looks like so much fun and also so much stress. Great videos thank you for your work.
I didn't know the trick with the magnets. Very clever, thank you! Great video, as always!
really enjoyed this series, hope your price reflected the multiple set ups necessary. I'm sure it did, but sometimes it can be difficult to convey this to the customer. esp. when they are unsure of all the dimensions. Thanks Peter!
Thanks Peter. Always love to see your work. Hope you didn’t lose too much time with bad weather.
Great work Peter, I've been following you for a long time and the information and content is always very interesting, cheers.👍
The most chilled out, layed back and relaxed man i know, do you need an apprentice.
Here in the uk you spend 5 years with the same person....generally an old timer with 50 plus years in the game 4 days a week on the shop floor shadowing him absorbing everything he says 1 day @ college....Never forget my 1st day.. On the job.....soon realised God wasn’t in heaven he was a machinist @ Rolls Royce.
@@chrisyboy666 That's how it used to be , and how it should be . but things have changed drastically over the years .nearly all machining nowadays is CNC with youngsters fresh out of college that can set up and program these type machines . but can't hand sharpen a twist drill .
Cool stuff that machine is impressive as well as you knowlege
Hut ab, Ein Experte der alten Schule !!
The toolchange only working at horizontal and a specific clock is probably so if if the machine is about to do a automatic tool change and something went wrong, it won't drop the tool. Nice work on these parts
another wonderful, educational, and entertaining video! thank you for the insight of close tolerance machining.
I made a comment on your last video and asked if it was the stress that was throwing it out of round.. I have to apologize . I didn’t realize that the end in the check was a saw cut end. I thought it was faced and pushed flat in the chuck. Love the channel, always learn some when watching. Keep up the great videos.
You comment gives me new hope in the social media community. Someone with the integrity to say what you did. I salute you!
Another great intuitive video Peter thanks. Don’t listen to numb nuts, I’m English and can clearly hear and try to understand everything you say. Keep up the good work. 👌
Thank you very much for taking the time to make these videos.
Love your videos you are very smart. Can you make a video showing how you machine the taper on your jaws with those radius’s on them and describe the angle and the radius you put on them please I’ve always wanted to know what angle and radius to put on them. Thank you in advance and keep the videos coming I love watching them.
I didn't realize how much y travel that beast has until you did that bolt circle! Wow
On all Mazak Integrex machines the model number indicates the Y axis travel. So this machine is a e650H. So it has 650 mm of Y axis travel.
I think one of things that people also need to understand, is large parts like these also release stress as they are machined. Especially when the cross sectional area drops significantly. Plus, usually the harder the material, the more it takes off while machining.
I work with ALOT of thinner stainless parts (316), but they are from 16-22 Ø, and after even minor amount of material removal, they need to be left to cool to room temp and on especially long parts, left overnight for stresses to work their way out
Awesome video, still wish i had the Mazak. haha
Stay safe, Peace
Cool ideas for the resonance dampening with he rubbers and magnets.
I think Haas lathes have a feature built in to do automatically what you said about the playing with the speed manually.
When we used to turn long and thin parts (much smaller diameters of course, something like 1/4 inch or so) we would sometimes hold them by hand with a stick or a piece of plastic, following the tool to prevent the chatter, not something very safe and i don't recommend doing that of course :)
Yes I have done the stick thing myself. But on this machine it won’t run with the doors open. You are correct Haas has a feature that varies the speed/feed to damp vibration. This machine is to old for stuff like that. I wish it had it.
I think I get why the magnets help. It's not because they are magnets (that helps because they stick without help). It's because the way you position them, by hand, it's not exactly symmetrical, so they prevent resonances from lasting longer. You basically create destructive interference between the sound waves in the metal and they quickly die out.
Peter, putting a 1.50" dia fixed post(bolted -secure) and mchined in place(same height} could serve as support and consistent 'shoulder' for the flange to bump into. This may also speed up squaring the flange , setting the Z-axis work offset only once and possibly serve as the anti vibration too. Just a thought but I am a really an avid follower and so thankful for your sharing here.
Maybe a similar sleeve at the end of the shaft will help arrest whipping of the part inside the spindle bore..? God bless you.
My level of machining is snapping the tools first use in my sherline lathe with mill column. It's amazing I can almost feel this man's unbelievable skill. A true craftsman (I'm a union carpenter by trade guess i should say true master Machinist?) Lol
Great tutorial on indicating and setting up. I do hope though that when you finish turned those spindles you dressed the center in the end so it was concentric again. I mean it isn't needed but it sure is nice for the next guy.
The center gets machined away when the 1.0" hole gets drilled. Than c-bored to 1.25 diameter with a chamfer the center can run in.
I personally find your videos really fascinating and in some way relaxing (No doubt just the opposite to you, re relaxing.) My machining experience and knowledge has really been added to/too/two by enjoying your work or should it be an ART form? The largest component I have recently turned was originally a 23mm in dia. billet of dialuminium required, for a small `crowned` pulley for a friends belt sander tool.
But the principals are just the same whatever diameter the component being. Basics are basics and if one does not understand them, well?? A `thou is a Thou` whatever the size of the component, clearance is constant.. Take care. Thank again.
The aluminium sleeve not only protects the part and the jaws but it also allows the parft to wiggle in the jaws. Would there be no aluminium sleeve, You wouldn't be able to knock the workpiece around.
Just a question coming from a machinist. Have you ever used a drill in the live tooling and rotated the C-axis at the same time? I’ve was told this will produce a very straight and concentric hole but have never had the opportunity to try it. Your thoughts? Thanks for the videos.
I have never done this but the principle is sound. Back in my gun manufacturing days. The man that drilled and riffled our barrel blanks. He made precision match riffle blanks. He drilled them by rotating the drill and the blank at the same time.
Edge Precision Interesting I’ll have to see if I can find anything on that. Thanks for getting back to me.
Neodymium magnets 🧲 what you have
And the rubber dampen the vibration which causes frequency
Put the magnet in a delta configuration it helps alot
I knew someone would correct me on this. When I’m making videos my mind goes blank. Unlike some content creators I don’t do retakes. I think it makes things sound unrealistic or rehearsed. That’s like a previous comment suggesting I should get a speaking coach. That is something I would never do. Thanks.
You do a great job you don't need a speaking coach 👏keep up the great work brother love your channel 👏
I'm young student learning alot from you 💯
I think its very interesting how you indicate the part to 0 before anything else can begin.
Large material has internal stresses released in removing so much from the od.
You are. It wrong about the mazatrol backwards thing, I knew exactly what the hell you meant.
Keep up the good work
What i do on some of my jobs is i face and turn one end enough to clean up then flip the part chuck up on the turned end so the part wont move on me and or go out of round or not as bad depends of the material i use.
Thanks for showing the skim cut method for the steady rest. I guess you would also have to recut the center in the end to keep everything true?
If I was going to use it, yes. But in this case I drilled and bored a concentric hole with a chamfer.
Finally convinced the boss to get a 4-jaw independent for our large CNC lathe. Where can I find the telescoping ratchet you use to tighten jaws?
Search this on Amazon.
Titan 12072 3/4-Inch Drive x 19-1/2 to 30-1/2-Inch 24-Tooth Extendable Ratchet
You comment about the mazatrol and teach when you set your offset. i agree my old mill with m32 mazatrol is reverse - when you teach an offset you tell it where THE OFFSET it compared to your current location - not WHERE your tool/spindel is compared to the offset you want. I agree with you peter its the opposite way on other machines haha
I think the people that made the Mazatrol were thinking from where the tool is to the part zero. They are thinking in a incremental direction. That would be positive in this case. They probably are software designers and not machinists. In our case we would think the tool is setting at minus 1.5" in Z. So if we told the control that it would place the zero accordingly. I think my little Haas lathe in the garage works opposite to this. But than when your programming in Mazatrol. Everything in Z minus is positive numbers.
They should make a seri4s of videos presented by you that gets played to middle school students. Some would be inspired and maybe we wouldn’t lose some of these critical skills,
Great videos
Great job !!
Ref to order these magnets ?
You should get the same damping by putting a piece of metal in place of the magnet. Adding weight you bring down the resonace freq of the part.
you can make a i micron filter cartridge with a piece of pipe some hose and a small turbine water pump from home depot to filter and reconditioning your coolant
Excellent, as always!
Just for my personal understanding of machining in the US:
What pricing range (ballpark) and lead time are we talking for 3 pcs of this part?
Im also a small business owner (electrical engineering, mostly for construction equipment) and Im astonished that you find time to spare, for making these great videos for us to enjoy.
All the best from Switzerland.
There were actually four parts in this order. The customer picked up the first one to check the assembly. But to answer your question without going into detail. I did the job in a total of six days (including making the videos). But because of the extreme weather and power outages here in Houston. It actually took a week longer. As to financial I only spent around $200.00!on tooling because I already had everything else. And I made around $140.00 a hour for my time. But in this case it’s a little hard to tell because of all the interruptions because of the power outages at the time. Here in Houston it is easy to acquire materials such as this. This material was delivered the next day sawed to length. Thanks hope that helps.
Yes thank you for sharing your knowledge 😃
Could you have put 4 jacks in the chuck slots and indicated the face by adjusting those?
Yes that could be possible. But I would like the jacks closer to the chuck jaws. Are you familiar with Robin Renzetti he has some videos on chucks he modified just like that.
@@EdgePrecision no i haven't seen his videos but I'll def be goin down that rabbit hole now. Thanks for doing what you do. I actually worked for you in the early 2000s when Mauro Garcia was the mill supervisor at Edge. Keep bringing the top shelf content 👍🏼
can you ask your customer to show us the parts assembled in their final machine? ?
İ am turner in the turkiye my name is ünal. Good job
...👍 wieder dein nächste Meisterstick, 👉✊👍 🙋
Peter, sure would be nice if you could enable captions for those of us who have severe hearing loss. Can read lips fairly well... when I can see them! 👂💋👀
I would love to do this. But I don’t know how. Something I will have to look into. Sorry. I appreciate your comment it gives me something to work on. Thanks!
@@EdgePrecision
I may be wrong, but I think that there is a check box titled 'Enable Auto Captions' on your CZcams video editor page when you upload your content.
@@stanervin6108 thanks I will check into it.
probably not worth it now but we centerfuse the coolant makes it last so much longer.....saves ££££
Good info Peter. I'm curious that you don't machine deburr your holes and other details at times. It's something I've taken to doing in the last couple years.
On this few parts it takes more time to program, set up and prove out the operations. Also there is always the chance of a mistake just to save a few minutes of deburr time. When your dealing with a lot of parts or inexpensive material. Than OK, but it just isn’t worth it to me.
Damn man running a nice face+ turn a chucking diameter from the start would save headaches!
If you faced it and turn a clean diameter that might help with the first roughing a little. But after the part bows in roughing the face you turned would no longer be square. So if you wanted to maintain that you would have to do it again after roughing. Now That could be a process. Rough the face and OD as you say. Than turn the part around. Rough the part. Turn the part around again with the flange end toward the tail center and chuck (changing jaws) the very end of the shaft. Supporting it on the steady rest behind the flange somewhere. Re skim the face and OD still leaving stock. Than turn around again (changing jaws again) chuck the OD of the flange like I did here get the part running true. Reclaim the center drill if necessary. Than finish the rough close to finish size. Than skim for the steady rollers and machine a start hole for the drill also turning the chamfer so it all runs true (I should have done it this way in the video). Than drill and finish as I did in this video. But is that really any better? You see any initial face won’t remain square after roughing. Ask me how I’m know this. Because I tried it that way on other parts in this same order. I don’t want to be, like I won’t hear any other ideas. I tried to explain this to another commenter. That I tried it. But sometimes you all (Not meaning you but global you) sometimes are so sure in your ways you won’t listen. That I tried it already. Again I appreciate all comments and please understand I’m not picking on you in any way.
@@EdgePrecision There's always more than one ways to skin a cat. I indicate my center drills to the chucks 0. A live tool center drill could possibly be off in x or y but I'm running a conventional turret. That machine is pretty crazy! I've mainly been around fanuc and okuma controls.
Peter, you could commentate on the world series if you gave up machine work
Very nice detail
سلام خیلی خیلی عالی بود متاسفانه زبان شما متوجه نمی شوم🙏💐💐
Another great video!
Coolant isn't big problem for me,
but have you considered about puting compressed air pistol or "spin window" in front of GoPro?
He made a super fancy go pro case with air blowing in front of the case glass , but beyond a point it doesn't work . High pressure coolant is too much for the thingy .
Start by machining the face saw cut and turn part of the OD then flip in chuck to help with later alignment?
The reason I did it this way. I was going to chuck the first operation in the serrated hard jaws and tighten them tight so the part wouldn't move. I was only chucking on to about .750" length of this big piece of material. There wasn't a lot of stock on the bars OD. So in order not to have dents from the hard jaws serrations in the flange end. I elected to not turn the stock first.
Good job Peter, very clear explanation. I'm wondering why you did not make some soft jaws considering you had several parts to machine?
I wanted to indicate the back of the flange to make sure. Not just depend on the jaws. You saw how it changes when I adjusted the jaws. Just to be sure. Also I already had the jaws. A set of soft jaws for this chuck costs around $300.00. Not a insignificant sum.
@@EdgePrecision that's quite a big amount! Must be some good alloy.
@@vishrutvora2465 I think they just use 1018 steel bar for the jaws. Each jaw weighs about 25 lbs. So four jaws 100 lbs of steel plus the machine work.
Just curious, why no chamfer on the holes in the program? No chamfer mill in the machine already?
Because for four parts it takes more time than deburr. Also the drawing doesn’t call for them. And there is always the risk of a mistake. If you are starting with a $1500.00 piece of material. A mistake just isn’t worth it.
@@EdgePrecision ah alright i see. I usually program in .005-.01 edge breaks on everything i can in my programs but thats higher production, not small quantities like this work. Thanks for the response.
How do you command the milling spindle to index a lathe tool at the B90. Position?
And do you use different work offsets for the same tool? Great job BTW !
You set up two different tools with different index and clamp angles. Than all you have to do is change to the tool you want. With a M6 T#. The machine automatically indexes it at the tool change. Hope that makes sense.
Daniel Machado - Brazil
Very interesting, thanks again.
Peter, I can see that you are using a lathe chuck produced by the Polish company Bison. What do you think about it? is it good
So far I have had good success with this chuck. I have no complaints.
@ $1600 a drum, Im kinda like... (HERE IS AN ADD) LOL The timing XD
Hi Peter, another excellent video.
By the way, how is the bicep injury?
Best wishes 🇬🇧
Thanks! My right arm and shoulder hurt if I try to lift something heavy quickly. The other day I lifted the case my camera gear is in into the truck. I think the case probably weighs about the same as a full 5 Gal pail of oil. I swung it off the ground with my right arm,to throw it on the seat. That really hurt my shoulder. Prior to that accident that would not have bothered me. So I have to be careful with that.
@@EdgePrecision, keep up with the physio. And carry on with the excellent video's.
Hello Peter , mind if i ask if everything is ok in Texas ? 'cause i've heard there was some low temps , power outage and extreme electricity bill spikes . Also , nice demonstration as always . The C axis indicating is really neat . I've seen it a few times (on your channel of course), but i think i've finally started to understand it .
ps.: hope the shoulder is doing well .
Everything is OK now. We had our power out for two days in the coldest weather. That froze and burst two of the pipe in my house and caused some water damage. I have shown a few posts on Instagram. After the power sort of came back on there was rolling power outages. On for 4-6 hours off for 4-6 hours for the rest of the week last week. It started around Saturday night and finished on Friday a almost a full week. Some people who had variable rate plans got hit with enormous bills. like in the $14,000 range. I'm not sure how that works. I think the governor is trying to get the power company's to take care of it. We shall see. It doesn't seem right when they caused the problem.
@@EdgePrecision A quite messed up situation .... it's good that it's back to normal .
Why not support the piece with the steady rest or center while you loosen the chuck jaws slightly and allow the part to relax on center? Then tighten the jaws and verify that the chucked end runs true. Otherwise, I would be concerned that the perpendicular faces are no longer perpendicular to the axis.
On this machine the tail center is a hydraulic quill. This can’t be extended without some force on it. If (as I showed in the video) the end of the part isn’t faced square. It will force this out of square face up against the face of the chuck jaws. And even if this seems OK with the tail center engaged in the center drill. When I retract the tail centers quill the part would deflect du to the strain of trying to be forced flat on the Un square end. I’m not exactly sure what you are referring to about un squareness of the faces? If the part is finished (with no stress du to the chuck) turned all in one setting everything will be square and perpendicular. If I did as you suggest (because of what I previously described) there would be stress introduced into the part. So when Un chucked this stress would be relieved and than things could be out of square.
@@EdgePrecision When you turned the part originally, all of the faces were perpendicular to the rotation axis. When you removed and re-installed the part, this is no longer necessarily true unless the part's center line is exactly on the machine's rotation axis. An indicator near the chuck allows you to establish one point of the part's center line on the rotation axis, but this still allows the remote end to whip around the rotation axis verifying that the faces (that are perpendicular to the center line) are not yet perpendicular to the rotation axis. Since the hydraulic center precludes using that to center the remote end, I would try to use the steady rest to center the remote end while loosening the chuck's grip momentarily. This would allow the faces to relax perpendicular to the rotation axis. An alternate approach would be to indicate the large face itself near the edge to establish that it is perpendicular to the rotation axis.
@@byronwatkins2565 the part had another .25” turned off it. It doesn’t matter if it ran true the second time it was chucked. Everything was recut as if the first time. As long as everything cleaned up. The center was reclaimed when the hole was drilled and bored on the end of the part for the tail center to run in.
From Waco here. Did you come through The Great Texas Freeze OK/ Power, water, no broken hips? My brother is in an old folks home in Pearland and the place had no power and water for 2-3 days.
We had no power for two days. During the coldest time. Everything in my house is gas but with no power the blowers don’t run. But we could cook. So no heat. This causes pipes to freeze and burst. Of which we had two. But we did have water until that. Than I had to turn it off. Now in Houston you can’t find a single copper pipe fitting to repair said pipes. I am thinking to machine some to repair those pipes (Might make good video content). Right now I have it kind of jury rigged with heater hose and hose clamps. So except for the water damage to the house everything is almost back to normal. Thanks!
@@EdgePrecision Crazy stuff. I guess will know better the next time (in 20-30 years).
Why did back face was not butted to chuck jaw face ? Could have put a relief chamfer in jaws to clear that big radius ?
Yes but in this case I didn’t want to modify these jaws. I use them for other things.
@@EdgePrecision I was going to ask a similar question regarding holding the part in soft jaws on the large diameter with a step machined for clearance when drilling,which would have eliminated ringing and ease of set up.Is it because it wasn't worth machining soft jaws for the qty.of work?
I noticed a small offset in the Y axis offset, Is this to align then center lines of the two spindles?
Yes this machine has always been that way. This could be corrected in the parameter settings. There is a setting that’s off.
Use the jack studs with brass insert tip on the flange??
Yes that could be done. You just have to be carful not to tighten them to much to distort the shape of the part. So it springs back after you release them. If you are intending them to stop vibration. Sometimes metal against metal isn’t as good as a softer material such as plastic, rubber or even lead.
thanks for the video
No need to change the coolant, unless your CZcams channel makes enough to cover the cost of replacement.
How do you get the position page to display program coordinates instead of machine coordinates after hitting reset?
On the Mazak it displays the position in relation to the tool it thinks is in the spindle, tool tip. In relation to the default fixture offset G54. If you need it to a different fixture offset you need to call that offset in a MDI. When you hit reset it will revert to G54.
The purpose of the steady rest on this part was just to hold it while milling the center, right?
While doing the end face and milling work first. It may have done it without it. But its safer to use it.
@@EdgePrecision Right. I forgot about the face work on the other end.
Just curious ...how many different jaws you got fot all the chucks you got? Or do you make new jaws or modify old ones if you got none that fits ?
One of the advantages of a manual 4-jaw chuck is the travel range of the jaws. This makes it possible to get by with fewer top jaws. Looking at my jaw shelf I would say I have less than 20 sets of jaws for this chuck, and that includes the hard jaws. I do modify old jaws if I know I will not be running the same job again. These are bib jaws that go on this chuck. A set costs between $200-300 dollars depending on the size. So I try to use the old ones first.
@@EdgePrecision
Interesting ! Thanks for the answer and have a good one !
Peter, could you tell us more about the gun parts manufacturing you did back in the day?
I built complete guns. It was a reproduction of a German Luger in stainless steel. Or to be more correct I did the machine work on them. We made over 22,000 of them.
@@EdgePrecision What was the brand name? CNC of manual machining?
I was here!
which CNC machine are you using in this video, manufacturer or model?
Mazak Integrex e650H.
@@EdgePrecision thanks
To each there own I guess but you couldn't give me a cnc lathe, I'll stay with my old monarch and sebastian.
Peter's Liberty Bell!
Peter, I just bought an e410-h. What is a good resource to learn how to program this machine?
👍💪
What tool are you using to tighten the chucks?
I use a 3/4” ratchet wrench with a short extension.
Do you use a specific brand ? I want to get one for work but I want it to last
My wrench has Titan on it. Do a search for Titan 3/4 extendable watcher wrench. There are many they appear to be the same wrench just branded with different names.