But doing that only takes about an hour. Then you have access to do everything from the alternator replacement thru just about everything in the front. From there you can easily drop the subframe and dor a clutch. Like it's dope to see other ways of doing stuff but Dont discourage the maintenance mode. It's a very advantageous place to be at but, it's not too long to get to either
Your step by step help me do a job the dealership was asking $2200 which I could not afford at this time since I had medical bills to deal with and water to also thank you at this time for charging your knowledge- great video since everyone else is placing the engine in service mode which requires dismantling the front end of the car!
Thank you very much. Just started, and following your process step by step. Hopefully it goes well, and I can then put it back together. Some bolts are difficult to access already :)
I think it worked out great. Thanks again. 2 things, during reassembly, the cat shield. That one screw close to the radiator is impossible to put back on. Second, I believe I need to bleed the coolant, as the level keeps dropping at each refill but I don’t see any leaks under. I haven’t done that before so will google it.
People, save yourself the headache and take the front clip off it’s so much easier. I literally just did this stuff on my car and I have to say it is 10 times easier to just remove the front clip. To avoid disconnecting the air conditioner I just propped up the clip on some buckets while I was working on it. Removing the downpipe like this is a really good way to bend/damage your wastegate arm, which is exactly what I did. Had to take the clip apart anyway to fix it.
Awesome dude. Please keep them coming! I could not find my dang oil leak. I think I know where to look now. I just ordered all the gaskets. I even ordered a new thermostate housing because I thought my coolant leak could be from it as well. We will see when parts arrive.
Great video - helped me with my change. Btw, you mention at 0:37 that it’s an N14 engine at but it looks like an N18 engine due to the valve cover and diagonally-positioned coil packs.
Instant like and comment for using 2 pairs of jack stands. Such cheap insurance. Did you chalk the wheel too? That's always a good step, even if you have to use a rock or a 2x4...a wheel chalk being best, of course.
Great work, dude! Thanks for making it all so understandable. I'm starting this job tomorrow... what is the gasket between the CAT and the turbo called? Also, can you tell me how you jack up your MINI to put it on stands, please? I have my own method, but the car in your video seems to be higher than mine. Thanks!
Did this job a week ago and once put back together I have a p1497 code. Throttle downstream air leak. I have retraced everything and can’t figure it out ! Any suggestions?
Thank you for the great video mate, much appreciated, is it ok for the coolant to fall into the oil pan? just wondering if there would be any coolant left in the oil pan after doing the oil change that may do any harm? Or would it not matter? Or should i take the oil pan cover off to give it a clean also?
The main thing is to perform an oil service after this repair. By the time you’re done it has settled to the bottom of the pan. Oil floats on top of the coolant so the old oil in the pan flushes the coolant out. I have never seen residual coolant cause an issue like (milkshake) on a MINI post repair when the oil is changed after. If you want to be extra safe you can change the oil after the repair. Run it for a few minutes and change it again but that isn’t necessary.
@@ifixmini3634 thank you for the speedy reply really appreciate it, im going to put millers engine flush through the engine first then do the repair, then the oil change, going to use millers longlife 5w-30 oil, i was going to use the same miller alpine antifreeze going from a recommendation from a performance company that works mostly on mini, the antifreeze is expensive @ £27 for 5l do you have any other good recommendation for both oil & antifreeze high quality of course
Sorry if this is mentioned in the video but i havent been able to watch with the sound on yet so I've just skipped through and watched different parts but it looks like my issue. If I have a very slow coolant leak from the oil gasket housing it's essentially the same process as if it was leaking oil? In other words, whether oil or coolant is leaking, i should replace both gaskets in the housing? Ive been told Blue Devil will do the job just as well as replacing the gaskets but I'd rather try and do it the right way first.
I just had mine done and yes, the coolant gaskets and oil gaskets are side by side and after separating the cooler, those coolant gaskets need replaced too. ☺️
Your video help me a lot with my 2013 mini cooper s clubman..how ever after putting back together ive got fault code 37DE "crankcase ventililation heating activation :line disconnecting" will you be able to help me out? How to fix it?
Realistically can I do this myself? 2010 R60, quite rusty in places from living by the sea for the last 7 years. I was losing a tiny bit of oil, but subsequently lost all coolant driving through town last Friday. 99% sure it's these gaskets. Have done brakes/suspension/O2 sensors etc. previously myself but thought I'd need a lift or similar
That is possible, however very rare. During this procedure coolant will naturally run into the oil passage while removing the filter housing. That is why you must change the oil after this procedure 100% of the time.
That silver colored one with a black handle is a Husky. It has an internal battery. They seem to hold up pretty well. I also have a Milwaukee one I use.
@@ifixmini3634 oh okay... I'm in the market for an electric ratchet but as you know, not all ratchets work in tight spaces like on a Mini. If you could pick one, would it be the husky or the Milwaukee M12? Thanks for the quick response.
I don’t drain the coolant first. I perform the oil drain/refill after performing the housing replacement and before cranking the engine. This prevents coolant from mixing with the oil. It runs into the oil passages while replacing the housing. By the time you drain the oil after replacing the housing all of the coolant will have settled to the bottom of the oil pan.
I like to run a bead of ultra black sealant in the gasket groove. It helps keeps the gasket in place when installing and also adds a little extra strength on the seal it’s self. Also when installing the oil filter gasket I find it much easier to install the turbo oil drain line on the oil filter housing first then once the housing is installed I install on the turbo with the 8mm bolt. I can’t for the life of me get the drain line seated on the housing if I leave the drain line on the turbo and then try and slide it onto the housing. Just a couple helpful hints. This job isn’t bad and the most daunting part is the service mode but after you do it once you’ll understand what you’re doing and it will go much faster and smoother. Also make sure you buy a new v clamp for the exhaust, you’ll never get the old one seated again as it’s become to tight to get over both sides of the down pipe and mid pipe from being clamped down for so long, a new one will slide right on with a new gasket to boot.
Best instructional video; one that avoids placing the front of the vehicle in maintenance mode.
But doing that only takes about an hour. Then you have access to do everything from the alternator replacement thru just about everything in the front. From there you can easily drop the subframe and dor a clutch. Like it's dope to see other ways of doing stuff but Dont discourage the maintenance mode. It's a very advantageous place to be at but, it's not too long to get to either
Honestly ! thanks for this amazing video and the effort u put forth to capture the job from every angle .God Bless
52:00 torque specifications of the bolts during reassembly would be very helpful.
thank you for the video !!!
Your step by step help me do a job the dealership was asking $2200 which I could not afford at this time since I had medical bills to deal with and water to also thank you at this time for charging your knowledge- great video since everyone else is placing the engine in service mode which requires dismantling the front end of the car!
Great video, helped me out when I was stuck on a couple of issues
Oh Sir you are one of our heroes that want to enhance the brand of the great Minis!!!...
Thank you very much. Just started, and following your process step by step. Hopefully it goes well, and I can then put it back together. Some bolts are difficult to access already :)
I think it worked out great. Thanks again.
2 things, during reassembly, the cat shield. That one screw close to the radiator is impossible to put back on.
Second, I believe I need to bleed the coolant, as the level keeps dropping at each refill but I don’t see any leaks under. I haven’t done that before so will google it.
Great Job MSN! I removed the Bumber first but this is also a good solution.
Thanks!
Was able to do this job myself thanks to this video.
People, save yourself the headache and take the front clip off it’s so much easier.
I literally just did this stuff on my car and I have to say it is 10 times easier to just remove the front clip. To avoid disconnecting the air conditioner I just propped up the clip on some buckets while I was working on it. Removing the downpipe like this is a really good way to bend/damage your wastegate arm, which is exactly what I did. Had to take the clip apart anyway to fix it.
Thanks so much for your help I work in my mini country man s All4 2013
Excellent video. Thanks very much
Great work brother ❤️
Awesome dude. Please keep them coming! I could not find my dang oil leak. I think I know where to look now. I just ordered all the gaskets. I even ordered a new thermostate housing because I thought my coolant leak could be from it as well. We will see when parts arrive.
Thanks for the reply!!
thank you for teaching
Great video - helped me with my change. Btw, you mention at 0:37 that it’s an N14 engine at but it looks like an N18 engine due to the valve cover and diagonally-positioned coil packs.
I have the same thoughts, this looks like the N18 engine, anyone can verify ?
@@domyeodefinitely an n18, looks just like my motor
The N14 and N18 are basically the same. I did my mini too with my son. That’s when I found that out.
Awesome! Thanks Paul
Since you put the oil filter back in to spray the cleaner, can I just not take it out earlier then? Thank you.
Awesome! thanks so much buddy!
Instant like and comment for using 2 pairs of jack stands. Such cheap insurance. Did you chalk the wheel too? That's always a good step, even if you have to use a rock or a 2x4...a wheel chalk being best, of course.
Great work, dude! Thanks for making it all so understandable. I'm starting this job tomorrow... what is the gasket between the CAT and the turbo called? Also, can you tell me how you jack up your MINI to put it on stands, please? I have my own method, but the car in your video seems to be higher than mine.
Thanks!
Thank you, good video
Did this job a week ago and once put back together I have a p1497 code. Throttle downstream air leak. I have retraced everything and can’t figure it out ! Any suggestions?
我通过观看你视频 diy自己尝试把我女儿的迷你修好！！感谢！！！
How much cost for labor a parts seal
Great & helpful video! What is the torque spec for the filter housing bolts back onto the motor please? I can't find this information anywhere..
Did you ever find this out ?
Thank you for the great video mate, much appreciated, is it ok for the coolant to fall into the oil pan? just wondering if there would be any coolant left in the oil pan after doing the oil change that may do any harm? Or would it not matter? Or should i take the oil pan cover off to give it a clean also?
The main thing is to perform an oil service after this repair. By the time you’re done it has settled to the bottom of the pan. Oil floats on top of the coolant so the old oil in the pan flushes the coolant out. I have never seen residual coolant cause an issue like (milkshake) on a MINI post repair when the oil is changed after.
If you want to be extra safe you can change the oil after the repair. Run it for a few minutes and change it again but that isn’t necessary.
@@ifixmini3634 thank you for the speedy reply really appreciate it, im going to put millers engine flush through the engine first then do the repair, then the oil change, going to use millers longlife 5w-30 oil, i was going to use the same miller alpine antifreeze going from a recommendation from a performance company that works mostly on mini, the antifreeze is expensive @ £27 for 5l do you have any other good recommendation for both oil & antifreeze high quality of course
I don’t have any special recommendations for the fluids. I stick with OEM Castrol full synthetic and OEM MINI or Zerex G48 Coolant.
Sorry if this is mentioned in the video but i havent been able to watch with the sound on yet so I've just skipped through and watched different parts but it looks like my issue. If I have a very slow coolant leak from the oil gasket housing it's essentially the same process as if it was leaking oil? In other words, whether oil or coolant is leaking, i should replace both gaskets in the housing? Ive been told Blue Devil will do the job just as well as replacing the gaskets but I'd rather try and do it the right way first.
I just had mine done and yes, the coolant gaskets and oil gaskets are side by side and after separating the cooler, those coolant gaskets need replaced too. ☺️
Where do you get the oil drain pan? I like that so you don’t loose parts
This is the best drain pan I have ever found. It’s worth every penny. This is produced excellent by.
www.coolantcatcher.com/
Paul are you available consultation
Your video help me a lot with my 2013 mini cooper s clubman..how ever after putting back together ive got fault code 37DE "crankcase ventililation heating activation :line disconnecting" will you be able to help me out? How to fix it?
Most likely one of the very small plugs on the air intake boot between the turbo and engine air filter are not fully seated. It’s an easy fix.
Great video, what part of the country are you in? I need to get this done, just don't have the confidence I can do it myself.
I live in Dallas Texas
Realistically can I do this myself? 2010 R60, quite rusty in places from living by the sea for the last 7 years. I was losing a tiny bit of oil, but subsequently lost all coolant driving through town last Friday. 99% sure it's these gaskets. Have done brakes/suspension/O2 sensors etc. previously myself but thought I'd need a lift or similar
Turns out it was my aux water pump for the turbo.
@@mrkzj 73,000 and 13 years. Sold the car now, someone might get another five years out of it, or more likely, everything else will drop off it
Can you do the turbo oil feed line this way too? Without putting in service mode...
I did the turbo line without bumper removal. Thought it was the turbo line on mine leaking. Now I'm back in there doing oil cooler seals😂
I did it without service mode although it was a real challenge getting hands in to R&R bolts
If your oil cooler is bad and it cause oil and antifreeze to mix in the engine
That is possible, however very rare.
During this procedure coolant will naturally run into the oil passage while removing the filter housing.
That is why you must change the oil after this procedure 100% of the time.
You're a life saver... What brand and model is your electric ratchet?
That silver colored one with a black handle is a Husky. It has an internal battery. They seem to hold up pretty well. I also have a Milwaukee one I use.
@@ifixmini3634 oh okay... I'm in the market for an electric ratchet but as you know, not all ratchets work in tight spaces like on a Mini. If you could pick one, would it be the husky or the Milwaukee M12? Thanks for the quick response.
The Milwaukee, I prefer a swappable battery for reduced down time.
Why not remove the coolant tank and get it out of the way?
Loss of more fluid than needed.
Did you drain all the coolant first?
I don’t drain the coolant first.
I perform the oil drain/refill after performing the housing replacement and before cranking the engine.
This prevents coolant from mixing with the oil. It runs into the oil passages while replacing the housing. By the time you drain the oil after replacing the housing all of the coolant will have settled to the bottom of the oil pan.
Why do you disconnect the negative and not positive? I was told to make sure I take the positive off.
I like to run a bead of ultra black sealant in the gasket groove. It helps keeps the gasket in place when installing and also adds a little extra strength on the seal it’s self. Also when installing the oil filter gasket I find it much easier to install the turbo oil drain line on the oil filter housing first then once the housing is installed I install on the turbo with the 8mm bolt. I can’t for the life of me get the drain line seated on the housing if I leave the drain line on the turbo and then try and slide it onto the housing. Just a couple helpful hints. This job isn’t bad and the most daunting part is the service mode but after you do it once you’ll understand what you’re doing and it will go much faster and smoother. Also make sure you buy a new v clamp for the exhaust, you’ll never get the old one seated again as it’s become to tight to get over both sides of the down pipe and mid pipe from being clamped down for so long, a new one will slide right on with a new gasket to boot.
Next time drain the radiator