New Tool for the Shop: Weld Positioner by Vevor
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- New Tool for the Shop: Weld Positioner by Vevor
For anybody that is interested, here is a link to the weld positioner that I am using:
s.vevor.com/bf...
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I have that exact machine. I bought it for a 2000 piece order, and it handled it great! Zero issues. I weld everyday and it's not your settings that are making your welds look like that, its your gun angle and position. Just for the sake of ease angle you gun more towards the top of that piece and things will improve dramatically. It's all about gun angle on moving parts and a little goes along way.
Cutting Edge Engineering has a rotary ground that he made on his channel that would be a great fit for this thing and a good project for the channel.
You Can Tell That Keith Didn't Get This For Free Like MOST CZcams Vevor Videos!!!
I was about to not watch vevor video number 9 milion.
This seems like the only honest review on youtube.
Vevor is decent stuff. They have an impressive variety of items, and my impression is that they've curated "good quality Chinese" items and rebranded it; it feels like much less of a risk. Not much different than a lot of major brands nowadays.
@Current Batches I've never had serious issues with old Taiwanese machines (never bought a new one). I would suspect the better Chinese stuff now is where the Taiwanese stuff was in the '70s.
Hi Keith. You might have a little better weld beads by forgoing the torch holder and make a support for your hand and arm and try welding that way. It might produce a better result than fiddling around having to move the torch out on each pass. I do enjoy watching your work. Thanks
Check your ground for corrosion, not only where the lug is bolted to your ground, but also you might just consider installing a new lug. I've seen corrosion build up inside the crimp. When trying to get my welder dialed in perfect, I will have my machine right next to me where I can adjust the wire speed as I'm welding. Adjusting the stick out of the wire and changing the distance between the tip and the work has big effect also.
Anything "Vevor" tagged is much better than the average evilbay or alix seller. Somewhere in their supply chain they seem to at least have an idea of what they are sourcing and either don't sell it or go back to their suppliers and improve it. Going back a decade or so I was importing wholesale quantities of a range of items out of China and I was often told 'it doesn't matter the quality so much as it is cheap' (that was the Chinglish version) so I found my self going back to them after getting the samples making suggestions on changes then giving an order on the basis of those improvements. Most of those were in the end no cost and got me a product I could deal with with way less issues. Bottom line is the Chinese when you work with them want to make a $ from a sale but if you are a sucker and chase the $ then you deserve what you get. Sorry for the windy reply 😁
I've also found them to be very high quality.
That positioner is a remarkable value for the money. I can't imagine building that for $600. Could I build the chuck for $600? The fact that it tilts and has a chuck for that money is extraordinary. It is a more that adequate solution for the application. I have a US made positioner that was much more expensive and not nearly as nice as that one. I can't imagine a spec that required the weld positioner to be set at a precise angle, or the chuck as precise as a lathe. Let's complain that it won't hold a 500lb workpiece like a more expensive ones will. I always look for low cost tools that are infrequently used provided they will do the job. I have plenty of cheap tools that are essential when I need them even if years go by between uses. I have plenty of high end stuff when the application requires it. Often so called US tools have plenty of hidden off shore content. Even though I an required to put made in Canada on the electronics that we build not a single component inside is made in Canada. So what does "made in" really mean?
Assembled In, is the more appropriate term, used by more manufacturer's.
Had one of these (exact same tool different brand) at work as a pro welder and used one very similar on another professional pipe fitting job for pressure vessels. It's fine for turning up to 4 in pipe fittings including long pipes with a long elbow and 150# flange if you have it well leveled on roller stands, it will turn over that much weight, but there will be a difference in speed that you have to adjust for when the weight tips over and pulls the pipe around. This is what it's really good for, horizontal roll out on rollers. It's not a good choice for holding anything with a large diameter of joint vertically to spin, better for very small fittings because of the chuck capacity, bore, and imprecise motor speed. It's not very precise and the motor doesn't hold constant speed with much torque for anything larger in a roll out position weld either. It will definitely be fine for most any roll out pipe applications smaller than 3 inch pipe though with just an elbow and even fairly heavy flange. Definitely OK for parts under a hundred pounds and about a foot diameter joint for vertical spin as long as the center of mass isn't too far away from the chuck center, needs to spin pretty true. The Chuck is pretty darn cheap on these, you basically jam down to a stuck position rather than actually closing firm, but the parts are heavy enough to last a while even so. I don't know if I'd buy it for myself unless I had a big contract job with a bunch of smaller pipe fittings, I'd want much more weight turning capacity for horizontal roll out if I need it, so I'd spend probably four times the price and get a 250 pound or 300 pound machine for myself, but I'm primarily a heavy fab welder. It would be convenient as a second machine after that to use for smaller fittings. Recommend building a three point stand, one behind about 24 inches back two long front feet 48 inches forward 24 apart and a couple roller stands to do longer pipes. When rolling out, you'll be better off putting your puddle right on top when running a hot pass or cap, run as hot as you can without opening a hole. When running roots, you want to be on the side of the pipe turning up and away from the arc around ten o'clock. Don't want to be on the down-turn side like you were doing on the shaft, get hotter, hot and fast as you can, and ontop of the shaft or even slightly on the uphill side rather than the downslope is my advice.
P.S. It's somewhat counter intuitive, but it's almost always better to be as hot and fast as possible when running weld. You're putting more energy into the joint, but for a much reduced length of time, the warping, distortion, and heat affected zone will be less when you run your weld as fast as you can control and still get the smooth deposition where you need it, this holds true on the roll out operations. As hot and fast as possible without opening a hole is pretty much always going to be better than sitting on your puddle, slowing the roll out down until you get the fill deposition you want. Your parts will actually absorb LESS heat rather than more. And again, right on top with the arc or even slightly on the up-tuning side rather than the down turning side is probably better IMO and as fast as you can get a smooth bead.
Kind of shaking my head on that one Keith...
Sometimes you just need a tool that is just good enough for the job :D
I noticed that too with the random letter brand names on amazon, but I've come across the name Vevor a couple times now. From what I gathered the experiences are pretty mixed, gotta see how well it performs. Propably like most cheap chinese products, if you want it to work properly you gotta do the finishing work by yourself.
Hot lemon tea with honey and two peppermint’s candy. That was grandma’s go to. Hope you feel better. Thanks for the tool review.
Excellent video Keith. I have been wanting one of those myself but didn't want to spend a ton of money on one.This looks like a pretty good deal.Thanks for sharing.
Lol Keith...for positioned MIG the torch should be at the top [12 o clock] IMHO, but turned out great anyways!
Yes, I noticed that. One of the reasons he was having so much trouble as he was trying to run a uphill weld. Not easy to do with a Mig especially if you can’t manipulate the torch.
Yes, I figured that out after the fact. When I do the actual rollers, they will be mounted vertically.....
Keith, This was a great video on reviewing the Chinese import tooling options. For many of us we woiuldnt be in the hobby or trade if it werent for the low entry price point of the low quality but obtainable chinese made tooling. I started my channel with this exact intention, Reviewing the Vevor Mini Lathe from a complete honesty to share with others looking to purchase one of these imports. Always love your contect and your looking well. Cheers.
Position the gun to the side like about 2 o-clock with the gun pointing slightly upwards. Turn rotation to counter clockwise so you're basically doing a down hand pass.
At my place Fedex is the king of the damaged deliveries. I got a wooden box like the one you got and of course the machine was poking through the side of the box and had one damaged part and one broken part. They had skillfully designed road blocks at every attempt for compensation.. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
You are lucky, Our FedEx delivery guy not only tears stuff apart, the guy back into one of our vehicles, realized he had done that, and simply drove away. Chicago-based ground delivery trucks and just like in Chicago they simply drive off. I called our local constabulary and they refused to do anything. My guess is some under-the-table funds had changed hands Chicago style.
@@bigun447 in the rare occasion I get to determine who delivers I take UPS.
LOL, welcome to Vevor. There's several vids on YT recently about this "company"... They only want to sell. Absolutely no service after the sale... You're completely on your own once you take delivery of your purchase from the shipper.
As far as your welds, you might try changing the gun angle as well... with MIG it's preferred to have a slight "push" angle on the gun, but in the video it appears that you're at nearly a 90° angle to the workpiece. But yeah, like you said, just a tweak to the settings and you'll have that setup making nice welds. It looks right now that you're running too hot as the deposit metal is looking as it's trying to run away from the weld. You may need to allow the part to cool a bit between passes, especially as you get out toward the end of the part.
👍👍👍👍👍
Another machine that I didn't even know was a thing!
And a realistic, true review, too. I have found that expectations of quality from any tool, frankly, no matter where it comes from, have had to change, at least for me, over the half century I've been buying things. Quality control is key: even things that claim to have certain specs often don't meet them. One of my most important questions when getting something, especially if it's at all expensive, is 'How easy will this be to return?' Two advantages of buying from a place like Harbor Freight is that, first, I can see something before I buy it, and second, I can bring it back if it has a problem. Ordering direct from overseas, or even through Amazon, makes things much more dicey, in my opinion. Of course, there are some things, like this tool, where ordering online is probably the only option. One more reason to look for something old, used, and in a shop that is either nearby, and/or that you trust.
Thanks so much Keith, for all the fantastic content you put out!
Great comment.
Nice video and analysis! I'm a boomer who remembers buying products that were deliberately unfinished at a discount so you could add the final value with your own labor- you also learned a lot about how the tools functioned! That's how I view much of the 'stuff' coming out of China, unfinished and awaiting the hands of a craftsman. You of course qualify on that count, imho when you're done dialing it in and making improvements you'll have a much better than 'adequate' tool.
The Chinese through the 80s and 90s would do shady business, learning the process methods from western investors and then kicking their operations out of the country to set up their own "Made in China" and "CC" manufacturing operations. Did this to a lot of companies, taking their manufacturing methods and then arbitrarily drumming them out, competing with them on the market at discounted prices after learning how their developed process engineering efficiently functioned. The unfinished part of the products was because these western manufacturers would very commonly ship Chinese made components back to their home companies for final machining, assembly, finishing and quality controls, which the Chinese companies stealing their methods weren't exposed to and never learned from them, so simply didn't do them to the same standards and put the 'unfinished' products on the market (at huge discounts of course compared to the western competition) that's the actual story of their shoddy machine tools flooding the world's market and running countless western companies that had invested in Chinese raw manufacturing out of business over time. The economic pressures to match prices with the shoddily finished tools built with labor that would be illegal in Western Democracies to pay their employees was a marketing problem and media explanation for why they were cheaper that the western companies just couldn't solve. Really only professionals with critical work demands who NEED their tools to last because they flat out can't have them failing as often for loss of work hours overcoming the differential in cost of just buying another Chinese made tool are the only ones who know or care what the deal is with this dynamic and still buy the highest quality for time and job-hours economy rather than materials economy reasons. For a long time, companies tried to make accommodations with manufacturing and finishing in Taiwan to try to salvage their businesses and the Taiwanese manufacturing is still much superior, but really they were doomed having given their process engineering methods to the Chinese. It's over for a western company when they do that because the Chinese are still a nationalized command economy playing for the long geo-politics strategy game of economically developing their country to compete and so don't care about honoring property rights of non-Chinese or doing mutually beneficial business if they can just put those non-Chinese out of business and take all the market share for themselves. They are a nationstate command economy with geopolitical strategic economic goals, you're not doing business in good faith to make everybody rich in China. We're still just beginning to learn that lesson now.
I feel the same way, it's like buying a kit. Usually with a bit of effort you can turn them into decent tools. Of course some of them are made of swiss cheese instead of steel (also know as chineseum), those are a lost cause.
Waiting to see the torch holder power feed in action. Get your round file in action on the crank handle mounting holes so you can set the worm drive gear in a tighter mesh. Great video.
When you weld do a single weld on the end of the shaft and it will help hold your puddle from falling off the end of the shaft.
I was wondering if you were going to “beep beep”. See you added it to the end. It’s my son’s favorite part.
Aim your torch at the top of the cylinder top down. Like your welding down hand, tilt the torch tip slightly forward a few degree from top centre for better weld appearance. Your getting all the drip because your welding up hill basically.
If you decide to put a better chuck on it, I would suggest a 4 jaw. You don't need to dial it in to .0005" since you can adjust while welding. I've used a positioner with a 4 jaw and it's more useful than a 3jaw scroll chuck.
You could also get a four jaw scroll chuck. I wouldn't use a nice one, but I'm sure there are several imports readily available.
I buy Made in the USA..... Unless, it's not made in the USA, or the price for something cheap is, well, cheap! The good thing is, you own a machine shop.. You can retool, refabricate or fine tune this and improve it's performance and make it better! Then it will be somewhat made in the USA!! Looking fabulous Keith! I hope you are feeling much better too!
Keith - I appreciate your candor. I’m learning right next to you. No apologies necessary. Get well.
Total honesty and no butt kissing because it was free. I suspect the 2-pin connector on the back is simply a switch/relay which will close a circuit on your welder. The schematic should confirm that.
High end U.S. made equipment can be a business expense which makes it affordable.
LOL i am laughing The directions are completely hilarious you gotta be kidding me.
Tools and Techniques have always been part of the content this video does not disappoint.
Clearly you are becoming the go to person for sugar cane mill repair.
I have a nephew that manufacturers a welding fixture that uses a regular 3, or 4 jaw chuck to mount your fixtures and items to weld. It is completely machined.
no problem Keith take it easy and get well my friend just love the jobs you do bit long winded in explanation but you get there in the end Cheers get well mate new or old i my self am looking for a weld poisoner so go for it
No corpo shill here! Thanks Keith!!!
How was welding ground connected?
It works for what you need.
I'm sorry to hear about the nasal drainage Keith; I've got nasal problems had them for years and take two different medicines for it so I understand and I will pray to Our Lord Jesus for you.
This tool reeks of Harbor Freight; if you looked around a little Keith, you might have found this particular tool manufactured in Taiwan or South Korea.
That's a nice weld. Thank you very much for the demonstration.
That crate would be known as a tea chest in England. Originally designed for packing tea from India and China. Light weight contents. You probably already have but, check the ground connections. I've had stuff from Amazon/China labeled as CE certified but lethal as far as grounding goes.
In China CE often means Chinese Export instead of it's real meaning
@@sierkdejongh8984 I used to think that too, the CE mark is a clearly defined logo and not a simple font, but, in my most recent case this was the CE mark, and the ground connection was 60+ Ohms to case,so, in a single fault situation the case could be live without blowing the fuse.
@@johnkey1682 The CE marks (Conformite European?) and China Export are subtly different.
@@davidmam Yes, I know.
That looks like it would be a good start to automation. Just work out an acme thread (or even all-thread) shaft and a couple pulleys and you'll have a spiral welder.
Keith It should be just an on/off switch for the mug welder. Same as the switch on the gun.
I’ve just started to watch this video and had to reply about the packaging, cheap plywood, cheap fasteners, but it survived FedEx so it couldn’t be that bad! You said it was laying on its side, probably where it landed after it got thrown in the truck. Lol
Good for you Keith, I built my own rotation unit but this looks good enough to get the job done. Stay safe
impressive coverage... have to give the machine a thumbs up
I usually just freehand on the weld positioner. You may find it a lot easier to control the buildup and the puddle.
Don’t talk to me about harbor freight, bought a gas power auger for digging post holes, worked fine in soft uncompacted soil but did not dig in hard soil, the auger bit leading edge was too shallow. Second problem was that the fuel tank developed a crack but I and a local small engine repair shop could not find any replacement parts for the gas powered auger!
I bought a toe jack, machinery skates and a come along from Vevor for an upcoming shop relocation and paid ~$320, which is maybe 1.5x the rental cost for those items in my area. It all looks pretty clean and well put together so I’m quite hopeful it will work ok. I’d agree the product documentation sucks.
Where does the ground clamp go and how good is the continuity with the part placed in the jaws?
I bought the Vevor brand Toe Jack, It was total crap! Hope you have better luck that I did.
What a neat gizmo. I can see how that would solve a lot of problems when trying to do the same operation by hand. You delivered an honest assessment on the advantages and detractions, followed up by a practical demonstration. Nice work! The instructions remind me of modern technical textbooks... where assembly and operation must have been just another 'exercise left for the student'. 😆
Nice, you should consider open to check the ground connection between chuck and body of the machine for a good weld and put a footswitch for a better control. Thanks for the video
Informative video, Keith. As to the name, Vevor, In a long career as an engineer for various enterprises, regularly ran into oddly named companies. Especially tech start-ups with very odd names. I used to tell people who would ask "Who are those people, what do they do, the name is not descriptive" that nowadays people employ brand research firms who have legions experts to invent a name that does not translate to "your mother has a face like a goat" in any known language. Recall the chevy Nova experience in Spanish language markets. Anyway, good information and you have received lots of comments from people with expertise about tuning the thing in.
Hey Keith; In three hundred years, it might be vintage?. I am not going to stop watching your videos, because you bought a Harbor Freight tool…keep on, keeping on!
I will have to admit - it kind of hurt to buy this. But sometimes we have to do what we have to do.....
I think you will be fine. I think it is a good addition to the shop.
I am very impressed by the quality of the repair. The limitations of the product are reduced by the quality of the operator... things even out! Thank you for sharing.
Ya pays ya money and ya takes ya chance. I bought the same model in the uk for more.
Lincoln, Miller and Hobart are now just about all made in China. Forney is and the engineers in Colorado assemble and test them. Sometimes you can get a refurbished unit and save around 40% or more on one that was returned for this or that and I got a refurbished Multiprocess MIG, lift arc TIG, stick welder (220MP) and got free shipping to PA. I am very happy with it, looks brand new other than you can see the torch has been used, the rest of it looks new and works fantastic. If it was engineered, made and assembled in China, that can be an issue. I have a Vevor CUT 50P plasma welder I will be putting through its paces this month doing a frame repair on my Jeep TJ caused by the state using so much salt every winter. Grrrr. It didn't pass inspection and they caused it combating slippery roads. To date, Vevor seems to be doing a fine job and I did call their service department to ask questions and they were glad to help me. That is when I made the decision to purchase.My son got me a Japanese coffee maker and it was made in China. The instruction booklet had zero English, just the Asian hieroglyphics.
That weld turned out great after machining!
Keith, must say I’ve have a few Vevor products, they tend to be good value for money, haven’t had one break yet 👴🏻👍
Not too bad, I would try to position the torch holder to become a rest for you. Then you could leave the machine on and weld the entire length without the starting and stopping. Thanks for sharing.
As usual great video, decent unit and another tool for your ever expanding workshop
Might want to go to den of tools on youtube. Did a deep dive on Vevor.
Keith, you can take some brass or copper and bend to the shape of the jaws and make them "soft" jaws. That's what a lot of people usually do.
Keith you should make upgrades for the positioner, I’d watch it. Thanks for the honest review.
An honest and fair review. I always get something stuck in my craw when Americans go off about poor build quality from other countries, as if only America is capable of Quality.
It's not that other countries are incapable of quality, it's just that after to import duties and transportation costs to get equal quality will cost you more. Many European companies are capable of even better quality, and many Asian countries products can meet or exceed American quality......it's just that we here in North America can't afford those product dues to all the extra fees associated with getting them
If we buy from Asian we get what we are willing to pay for. And it's just easier to find local product in our price point.
The sad truth is that a lot of the stuff being made in the US these days is no better than the import stuff. And I will agree that there is now and has always been some very high quality tools and tooling coming out of Europe. Some of the best built tools I have are German made and anytime I see "Poland" on tools and even tooling, I can usually assume it will be good quality. Being a "Vintage Machinery" guy, most of my experience has been around old American made iron - made back when quality meant something. It's hard to find that level of quality anywhere being made new any more....
Get an old lathe and set up with a vfd make a mount to hold the mig gun mounted to the carriage. You can use different feeds settings as you need, works great. Love your channel.
All the Chinistic tools I have bought or come across when new, need some TLC mainly de-burring and adjustment.
I've frequently heard it said that when buying such imports your actually buying a semi finished kit. My experience is to expect to need to de-burr most parts, to check that everything truly works including bearings, and you may need to replace a lot of the fasting hardware with something that won't strip out snap off right away. Cap and set screws can be the worst, softest steel you'll ever find. Also these are often Loctited in.
Hi Keith if but a bead of weld on end first it will help and also if you can turn the shaft the other way that will also help
Keith,
While the weld looks good after machining, a Non-destructive Test (NDT) would be worth doing. In this case, a dye penetrant test would tell a lot, at a relatively low cost.
I have seen porosity, small cracks, and inclusions identified by NDT. It's doubtful any flaws would be an issue on a cane mill roller. It would however help in improving your technique.
Bob
On a cane mill I wouldn't be to concerned with some inclusions.
Considering the shafts run in Babbitt bearings at slow speed the buildup on the shafts is a whole lot stronger then the Babbitt bond to the cast iron.
It's not something majorly important weld on something like a bridge pillar or a pressure vessel where better inspection would make sense.
@johan I agree. In editing my comments I deleted the word "doubtful". It changed the idea I was trying to convey. Thank you for pointing it out.
Hey Keith!
I think if you point the tip of welder straight at the very top, it might act more like a flat surface then it dripping down the side, might be easier on your large tooling as well
Excellent video as always! Hope you feel better 👍🏼
Lathe tooling
Keith, you have a much higher opinion of the manufacturer then do I.
The steel in that machine is from the WTC. They got it dirt cheap and on top of that the the price of steel was low at 2001.
What goes around comes around.
You don't really believe that do you?
Keith, viewers like me wish you would build one on your own! It would make a really great series. Plus you have the needed skills and also just about any equipment needed to tackle such a project. Sell this one after you're done!
One thing you did not went into any detail nor any close up, is the welding gun support arm. Hopefully you will in the next video.
Please also if you can improve on your videography, mainly close up shots. You always point at details we, from our sofa could not perceive well.
Thanks for sharing.
God Bless.
Hi Keith ,i am guessing the welder socket outlet will be just a pair of no volt normally open contacts.
You don't have to apologize for buying Chinese, every contractor, homeowner, DIY'er buys Chinese made tools. All the major brand names of cordless tools and corded tools are made in China. Maybe Festool is the exception, but they're priced beyond their quality.
I love how they put that old school green on the face of the chuck so that it fits in in a machine shop! Hahahaha
You prob already have a set, but the OTHER Keith sells a set of self-aligning shaft rollers that would work good on those cane mill parts, so you could grip the long end of the shaft in that flimsy chuck on the Asian-Spinner there, and support the heavy drum part with Keiths rollers (maybe on a Hunk of wood or anvil or something or shimmed up whatever height) and be able to weld that heavy assed thing horizontal like you'd want, instead of vertical like in the end of your video?
For the 4 pin welder connector, it "should" just got to a NO/NC relay contacts on the positioner that will close/open when the positioner is triggered thus acting like the trigger on the mig gun. As for the timer, I feel that would be much more suited for doing preheats post heats on parts, a little less caveman than setting rock on footpedal
Exactly! The positioner controls the welder, not the other way around. The two wires coming out of the positioner "replace" the switch on the mig torch. Wire them in parallel if you also want to control the welder at the torch.
That's funny! I am reviewing a 4-gallon backpack sprayer by Vevor tomorrow! It appears to be pretty good quality, but we'll see 😉
Hi Keith. Your wire feed is not right also the angle of the torch is not right. It looks like your shield gas is not providing enough protection this can be due to angle of weld or the torch to fare from the weld. I would also check your wire feeder on the welder your wheels may be slipping or is not contacting the wire correctly. You did not state the type of wire you are using . I would use 1mm or 0.8, if your welder can handle 1.2 wire this will give a much better finish.
Sounds like the ground path to the part is "Breaking" as the positioner rotates.
Thanks for being straight forward Keith. My experience with Chinese tool imports has averaged about an 85% failure rate within one year of purchase. I bought a plasma cutter that only lasted 20 minutes so as the old adage goes, buyer beware. The weak link in your case will most likely be the electronics. Chinese quality control in that area is consistently poor. Good luck Keith; hope it works out for you.
i've seen some diy plasma torches on the toobs, both sets of them, maybe their electronics designs would be adaptable. in my experience these kind of things come with all kinds of machined parts i don't have the tools to make or the knowledge to know i need them, the rest is easy.
Keith, Good review, & I feel your pain of purchasing imports..... although that is sometimes the only option within the financial grasp/ability of the hobbyist.
I was somewhat surprised that you didn't find more inclusions after turning the weld down; a preheat will definitely help MIG out on a shaft of that diameter.
A thorough honest review. I would expect no less from you Keith. I agree that while American or European tools are my choice, I can seldom afford them as a hobbyist. Yess, most of my tools are Chinese.
All right Keith, enough with the cane mills.
You have a much more important project to get to... ICE CREAM !!!!
😀
Good choice for you.
Between Adam Booth and Curtis from Cutting Edge Engineering, Curtis does this kind of BIG welding proposition the most. I suggest you take a look and see what things he's doing that you are interested in. He does this kind of build up welding a lot and he also does a lot of horizontal boring in an unusual way.
*Kurtis
Thanks for sharing
Yep, A Harbor Freight man at heart.
That worked out great Keith.
Adding capabilities to the shop while boosting efficiency.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Good Morning Georgia! 😊
The thing that lacks with Chinese products is usually not the quality, but the quality checks. You can get high quality stuff from China but you have to pay. Just imagine what an US made product would look like at the same price point ;) When you get a Chinese product that's in the same price category as something produced in the US, you get stellar quality and features from my experience.
u must have been reading my mind, i need one but dont want to spend a ton, check out the vevor mag drill.
That will be much faster and easier. Have you considered using stainless wire ? That would be much longer lasting. Thanks for the continued content. You are looking good too.
It seems like you could put a clamp bolt through the side of the frame, drill a hole and weld on a nut to engage against the worm gear. Keep it from wobbling
That might be a good circle burner with a torch.
Sometimes the getting the tool now and seeing if it'll work for ya outweighs the waiting for a vintage or high-quality unit.
Greetings from the Cayman Islands, luv your channel
Vevor are doing a lot of sending stuff out this month.
If you ever want to obtain a "vintage" good one, I'd recommend a Pandjiris 30-6, if you can pick one up cheap. Even a smaller 15-4 will do. That will hold most large weldments for the smaller shop, as the 30-6 is rated for 3,000 pounds at 6" eccentricity. After using one, you'll wonder why you've never thought about obtaining one before.
$10K
@@kindabluejazz Yea, they run about that from a used dealer, but I'd look at the auctions. NASA just sold a slue of them about a year back.
Oddly I just ordered a Vevo air compressor. For the money my expectations are not high however at most it'll be used once a month at which rate it'll outlast my need for it. The Chinese are perfectly capable of making great things but as in any manufacturing quality and durability adds a lot to the cost. There's already plenty making high end gear so it makes a lot of dense to target the market segment that's not well catered for..
A few years ago a I needed some circular connectors and contacted the Chinese manufacturers, I only needed 10 and they were most apologetic that it would take them a week to get my order onto the production line.
What I like about what the Chinese are doing is it give more the opportunity to have a go.
China can exist for 10.000 years and still they will never make a good thread that doesnt have 2mm slop in it.They can do anything for cheap but threads are arch nemesis of chinese industry.
Excellent
It would also work for frosting cakes
That is good thinking outside the box!