Ram 3500 Camper Truck Build - Doing Power Distribution The Easy Way
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- čas přidán 8. 06. 2024
- In todays episode were doing shore power, battery power, generator power, and truck engine power, all in one easy to use system!
Big thanks to Redodo for supplying us with the battery system.
5% Discount Code: Build
Redodo Official Website: www.redodopower.com/?ref=bis4...
Redodo 12v 200Ah Lithium Battery: www.redodopower.com/products/...
Redodo 14.6v 40A Lithium Battery Charger: www.redodopower.com/products/...
Redodo 500A Battery Monitor with Shunt: www.redodopower.com/products/...
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Music:
Fareoh - Cloud Ten - Auta a dopravní prostředky
**READ THIS** We are always learning as we go, often times the comments help guide us or catch safety issues. Theres an issue with this system with too high of amp RV style input (30A), a 40A breaker and romex that is only rated for 20A. We're still learning, this is my first time ever working with romex, and using that gauge wire isnt safe. We will be fixing this in the next camper truck episode!
Good men!
And a switch rated for probably only 15amps
Great work
Don’t fix it! Let it burn to the ground so you guys can move on to the Murciélago.
@@NG-xr3hp No! I can't stand hearing them call it "Murcielago" with the strong syllable in the "a", that is the wrong way to pronounce the name!. The strong syllable is in the "e"; that's why "Murciélago" has that "´" thing in the "e".
Good on you for getting Oscar to play a bigger part, but quit cutting him off…my man is a master of all trades, let him speak
I thought you were gonna let Oscar talk damm
“I’m gonna let Oscar explain the electrical system”
Oscar starts talking *** immediately cuts him off 🤣🤣🤣
Let Oscar talk about his work more, this is not TV, changing the voice of the narrorator is just good to keep us engaged. Let us into the mans head and let him explain it with other words and in a different way. We want to hear what he thinks and learn from Oscar, he knows more than most about his stuff.
What the heck would you do without Oscar? the guy is legend..
No but really
True! But then Chris wouldn't even let him finish a sentence 😂
Nothing.
The yellow romex wire is only 12awg or 20 amps max. You are plugging it into 30 amp power and you have 40 amp breakers. A great recipe for a fire. You need 10awg wire (orange romex) to the breakers and 20 amp breakers feeding the yellow/20 amp romex that feeds the outlets. And those breakers or outlets should be gfi.
They're trying to get back at the insurance company for the boat payout
How the charging system is wired I'm very concerned for over charging the lithium batteries and a fire starting, hopefully they didn't explain it right because it sounds dangerous
@@wayneperryman4146 They have built in over voltage protection so no risk of that. Ideally though you wouldn't charge them straight from the alternator, you would use a DC DC converter/charger.
Should never use solid core romex in a vehicle, whether it’s boat, RV, or a horse drawn wagon.
It's actually approved and allowed by the recreational vehicle industry standards...you just have to secure it every foot or so. @@Anad63
The power coming in is 30amps on 12 gauge wire, it needs to be 10 gauge and protected with a 30amp breaker (not a 40 amp). Also you’re switching it with a normal switch only rated at 15amps. Love the build!
Ya as an electrician I was cringing at every word. Those long red fuses coming off the batteries should blow at about 400 amps.
This electrical system makes no sense with the amp ratings, setup, and wiring. Not only janky as hell, but not safe.
Also, let Oscar speak.
LOL, they going to sink a boat and burn down a camper. Love to see how much weight they add to that rig too.
That why mechanics shouldn’t work on electrical systems beyond 12VDC without having knowledge of the National Electrical Code. Improper wiring, protective devices, etc. attached directly to flammable boards :(
i was thinking the same thing. fire hazard on wheels.
I LOVE the channel, the build is cool, please don’t ask others to speak if you don’t feel they communicate what you need to be said.😞
I agree with everyone "let Oscar talk"!
You should also add solar panels to the roof.
There are solar panels on the roof. I think 2 200w panels.
“Longest project on B is for Build”
Single seater supercar in corner shaking its head 😢
Allow Oscar to finish what he is explaining, kind annoying when you interrupt every few minutes..😂
The problem with being rich fast makes you think you are higher from other
I AGREE HE IS THE KEY TO YOUR WONDERFUL SITE !!
Took the words out of my mouth. Both comments
I think it's time oscar got his own mic
NOTE, your alternator will likely fry itself if you try to charge the house batteries from a low state of charge. You should be using a 12v to 12v LifePO4 charger to the batteries to lower the charging rate to a more sustainable rate for the alternators.
I was thinking this, Isn't it dangerous to just charge straight into house batteries without some kind of charger in between like a DCDC, especially if they're two different chemistries?
The batteries have built in BMS limiting to 100A charge current each…
From the website:
Redodo 200Ah LiFePO4 battery built-in 100A BMS, which supports 100A max
@@ryan_layne that means each battery will pull 100 amps. That's 200 amps of power coming straight from the alternator through a wire that's too small to handle that many amps. The BMS protects the battery. Not everything connected to it
@@joshuapaulwhite I made no comment about the undersized wires, only that the alternator itself prob won’t be fried because it’s rated at 400amps and the batteries can only charge as 200amps. Not at all sure the point of your comment.
Put in a diode between the alternator and the batteries, so that they won't reverse charge the engine battery. You can buy it at the marine store, all boats have them.
a relay for the connection between the cranking 12v system and the aux 12vs that turns on/closes on ignition/while running would also work for this.
A battery isolator would also do the trick on top of not charging the camper batteries until it sees 14v.
It saves gas though.
The DC to Dc should have a signal wire, I could be wrong with the brand used. Red arc have one to stop that. One day everything will be dead while camping cause it fed the trucks batteries. We think alike and can foresee a problem. Warm beer, hot steaks cause the fridge is dead
@@imcmcguiness5110 I don't think there was a DC DC converter, they are just hard wired to the alternator. Not ideal.
Oscar is the Wozniak of B is for Build!
Best comment ever.
This episode is making me Smash my head against the wall. Why would you run a 40 amp breaker on a cord that is rated for 30 amp, and then using 12 gauge Romex which is only rated for 20 amp
B is for Beat and Broke, now soon to be Burnt down.
In the bifb fashion, "we're going to show you how to bulid something that we have no idea on how to bulid, and no desire to learn or do correctly."
@@eddiemason4316 or B is for Bollocked if youre in the UK lol
Why not an RV hybrid inverter? It would do all this work for them and better. If it's noisy use sound insolation between living space. This seems like choosing all the wrong options from 3 years ago.
@@dalleybrent yes exactly. Inverter charger is the answer. Many even have a transfer switch built in!
Oscar is definitely the star of the show
You guys need to research that power setup more. Most of that stuff is WAYYYY underrated for the power youre putting through it.
You're going to Florida in a 100% black camper. Two words, no sweat. Hahahaha 😎
You need a voltage sensitive relay between the house batteries and the vehicle batteries.
This keeps them seperate until it detects 13.2v+ from the alternator then it connects them together.
NO! A DC-DC charger is needed.
Correct. Dc to DC charger is a non negotiable in this situation
The shore power inside needs to be a 10guage wire for 30 amps. Go SJ it's like a thick extension cord. It should only feed 20 amp breakers with the existing 12-2 house romex you've run. On the 120v side; not trying to nitpick just trying to be helpful. Love the work.
This right here
He also needs a dc to DC charger. Yikes. Normally ameteur hour is fun for car building. It is not fun for electrical
Exactly! The current setup could cause a fire
It looks like they used solid core romex. You never use solid core in a vehicle.
Just so you're aware, this is according to US National Electrical Code (NEC). You're supposed to use 10/2 or 10/3 for that 30A system. You're quite obviously using 12/2, which can be confusing but is actually a thinner wire, and while you can run 30A on it, it's only rated for 20A. I would suggest changing the wires out before you build it more, so it's still easy to access. Otherwise, it could be hard to pass RV registration.
You can use 12/2 for the rest of it after the inverter, but youll want to make sure that the inverter can do with constant use of 20A to those circuits.
To note for certain people, I'm licensed by the Texas Department of Licensing and Registration (TDLR) to do electrical work and have worked in electrical for almost 8 years, construction for over 10.
You’re referencing code for home and business electrical systems, though the gauge sizing still applies. What’s more worrying is the use of solid core wires in a vehicle.
Please tell me you're not using Romex in a vehicle. Solid wire does not handle vibration as well
I hope so too. The coil in the wire, like brake pipes, worries me.
I don't what they used, but they make stranded with a cover like romex.
@@edfleming9600 yes they do, but it doesn't hold a coil shape like that. That's 12/2 Romex
Guess you’ve never looked in RVs or motor homes.
@@gbpg2016 oh I have. Just because the RV industry does it, doesn't mean it's right...
Lots of good electrical advice on here...hopefully they listen...
Oscar is fast a hell. I know he's on time laps but he did all that in a week this dude needs a raise
30amp shore power should be fed with orange 10-2 or 10-3 which is rated for 30amp. Yellow is 20amp.
You may want to put a fuse or breaker at the back batteries for the cable that goes front to back. If something damaged that cable the front protection will stop you from shorting out the truck batteries but your back batteries would not be protected say something smashes the cable to the frame or box. If you had protection at the back batteries it would help save your batteries. Love the progress of the truck! Can't wait to see it finished!
I think it would be smart to paint the box a sandstone, light army green or light grey colour. That black is going to absorb more heat than you'll be able to evacuate. White roof is a great start though
Please remember to bring some fire/smoke alarm since you're sleeping on the batteries. Maybe put thin steel sheet instead of wood under the mattress, like building a little fire containment cell. Gives like 30s extra to get out..
Just from a safety point of view, please please get a lithium battery extinguisher and fire blanket. Seeing too many fires from lithium at the minute, better to be prepared.
Not that that’s a bad idea. But those are lifepo4 battery chemistry. Much safer and can’t go into thermal runaway like other lithium based chemistries.
You can't treat a vehicle like a house for rain, unless you don't intend to drive it. It need to be totally sealed, air pressure from driving will push or pull water in and out of where ever is not sealed.
Looks great! I’d put some sound deadening rubber strips around before the final walls
You should verify that your cabling is suitable to your input/output cabling. The yellow AC cabling does look quite small.
So if you are connected to shore power and charging batteries and start the truck? OR connected to shorepower - grid down - you back feed the grid? Sumthin's not right about your connections 🤔🤔
30 amp connector into 20 amp wire.... ❤
don't forget the 40 amp breaker with that..
Now the additional batteries are charging the main battery, but might also happen that the electrical system in the back starts to drain your main battery. Which could be a problem for starting the engine... so i would reccomend to add a relay which only connects front and back batteries if the engine (alternator) is runnung.
Oscar deserves his own channel or at least 50% of the revenue from the B is for Build Channel, the guy does literally 90% of all projects by himself.
For automated switching: you can also use a 120V contactor, so the shore power is automaticly switched. If shore is disconnected then it automaticly switching back to the batteries.
I am so glad Electrical Code decided to color code different gauges of wires it makes spotting problems on video so much easier.
You might need a DC to DC charger to regulate the charge voltage coming into those lithium batteries from the alternator. Lithium batteries can be finicky and usually like about 14.4 constant DC volts to charge them fully.
Parallel batteries, parallel chargers, parallel alternator feed, all hard wired with no isolation. Looks like the setup for a compelling future video...
Yea they need a dc to dc current limiter. If that alternator can deliver 400 amps, the batterys will accept 400amps, that will require a very hefty system to protect from damage.
Also heat distribution becomes a problem.
You REALLY need a breaker/fuse at the rear batteries too. A pinch in the line anywhere would short the rear batteries resulting in fire.
I use the victron orion tr dc to dc charger. It isolates the house bank and starter battery.
Can you imagine your boss going back and watching a weeks worth of your work?? That could be devastating!you’re not getting away with anything at that point!
Good job, Oscar!🎉🎉🎉
Don't give people ideas.
I think 90% of bosses try to do that anyways. Besides, it's a time lapse, so he's not really "watching it" he's skimming through a fast reply. And to be fair, he definitely wouldn't "fire" him if he found an issue with his work.
Great cable management Oscar!
He cable manages as well as he welds, good job Oscar!
We told you to seam seal this thing from the start.
You need to separate the positive and negative on the battery bank to opposite sides of the bank so it draws from the bank as whole.
For the truck charging: Using a Blue Sea ACR (Automatic Charging Relay) will only allow the truck batteries/alternator to charge the house batteries once the vehicle is running. An added feature would be a switched bypass incase the truck batteries die and you want to boost the truck with the house batteries.
Also: A lithium-specific battery charger between the alternator and the house batteries is probably wise (if the batteries don't have a regulator for that built-in)
This is an awesome episode! I really liked how you guys walked us through the electrical. I look forward to seeing this bad boy on the road.
24:25 - "A lot, a lot of hours" at a 400W draw on those two batteries, if anyone is curious, is about 11.5 hours, assuming a standard efficiency rate of an inverter at 92%.
Well they will have a generator in the back, with some diesel/gasoline nearby to that
Oscar needs his own channel 🙏🏻
I don't know what you are planning on using for air conditioning, but a normal 13.5 RV unit will draw 1500w while running. They are generally recommended to run 2500w + generators to start a single unit. I think you may want a bigger battery bank if you plan on using AC off shore power.
Hopefully the units will have soft starts !
New a/c systems are very efficient and include soft start circuits to minimize startup surge.
Hopefully Chris will read some of the comments from our friends in the electrician's union below. It seems as though some "re-wiring" might be in order before you guys burn this baby to the ground. I've been known to shock myself just putting in a light bulb so I have the greatest respect for folks who can actually do this kind of work. Volts, amps, kwh, and DC to DC converters and inverters make my head hurt!
I SAID IT ONCE AND I SAY IT AGAIN = EVERYONE NEEDS AN OSCAR = so talented
The whole thing should been painted with epoxy primer before bedliner.
Crazy to see the progress since the start. Can’t wait to see it fully completed
Oscar did a good job. That said seam sealer all the things. Because yeah.
Use that large roof to mount solar panels. Fill it with panels! It's a HUGE addition for charging when not connected to shore power. You cannot have the car idling on hot day to run the air conditions, and those AC's will definitely be needed with that color choise, even if You paint the roof white. The sides are still black...
1:04 buddy been waiting YEARS to give us the finger
what are you, twelve?
Lol@@thanksmark
@@thanksmarkno I think he's 10-11 if I were to guess.
Oscar is a great cosmic genius
Dang Chris. What would you do without Oscar? That man is a jack of all trades. He is the glue of the builds for sure.
I know B is for Build, but I think B is for Oscar too
Let’s get back onto the Merchielago. Don’t want to have to rush it before sema
Nah, they always rush everything before SEMA. It's a transition for them
Oscar needs to talk about his work as he does most on the channel
Oscar, you probably need to put a 200 amp fuse in the back by the batteries just in case the wire gets shorted going to the front so you don't start a fire. You don't want to short out the massive lithium-ion batteries.😅
Great stuff.... Looking good 👍😊
please god let the next episode be "so we talked to some people who actually know what they're doing and we paid them to fix our fire hazard"
LiFePO4 Batteries are not Lithium Ion Batteries. (Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) battery). The two batteries share some similarities but differ in performance, longevity, and chemical composition. LiFePO4 batteries are known for their longer lifespan, increased thermal stability, and enhanced safety.
You got to let Oscar explain things more.
Do not forget about sound deadening sheets
i really like this video! amazing content!
Oscar's hoodie is brilliant. 😂
More and more weight added onto the frame and springs. Waiting for the episode that shows the collapse of it all and the camper sitting on a busted frame and flat tires.
While simultaneously burning to the ground after being flooded...
It’ll probably burn down first from that electrical setup.
It’s capillary attraction, the ability of a liquid to raise against the force of gravity within a confined space
The switching switches switch the switches. lol
Love you guys.
I would highly recommend using a DC to DC charger from your alternator to the batteries. It will give you proper charging profiles for those batteries. You could also connect solar panels with a DC to DC charger as well.
Need more boat videos. wanna see how your boat's doing after. the flood.
B is for Leaky Death Trap Rust Bucket
What about the solar panels you added?
Love your power setup. I’m not sure what type of lithium battery you have there but most “house” batteries that are lithium need a charge controller between them and the alternator. Most don’t. Come near 400a though. Also 400a is the max charge current but have a look at the optimal charge current. Most battery are about 1/4 or less of the max. Mabey 100a -150a change controler might sure you better
Thanks Chris
Hi Chris Oscar, great job on the inverter and batteries!, you can use a baterry isolator to balance the power draw from the engine or you can match the battery type on the front to the same as the back to match capacity. You could overcharge the front battery if they are of a lower capacity. Very cool build. YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME 👌 👏 👍 Oscar did a great job!!!
You definitely need to install a dc to dc charge controller, instead of vsr for them lithium batteries, running a dc to dc will also give you the ability to have a solid input
Chris, give Mike from Navigation Nowhere a shout, nice young fella super knowledgeable about all this
Super film. Może więcej takich chińskich wynalazków?
Super cool
Redarc battery isolator will prevent discharge to the truck batteries. You should also have at least 100amp circuit breakers on each side of the batteries.
Can’t wait to see more!
I love that camper
chris you should look into sacrificial anodes for preventing rust
Oscar should just make his own youtube channel at this point
9:00 let him speak 🫠
Well it looks ok. You should have used fire retardant paint for wood in the power box area. For your outside test you need to consider moving at 60 plus miles per hour especially on the front facing areas.
I've had one of those Redodo 200ah batteries in my truck camper for a year and a half now and it's still working great. Please upsize that romex for the amperage you'll be pushing through it!
Regarding the charging, I'd look at using an automatic voltage sensetive relay to detect when the alternator is charging to close the relay contacts for the battery link. That way you stop the possibility of burning out the relay if the auxillary batteries try and dump their entire contents into a flat chassis battery if that ever happens. The other thing I'd do would be to change from a 200a relay to a contactor rated much higher, then you can also use it to self jump start using a push button if you ever need to (assuming you have battery cable between batteries).
Definately a good starting point for a setup, but really need a DCDC isolate the front and back. are those lithiums even ok to charge direct from alternator? most dont, few other points, i wouldnt charge them individually from the 40 amp changers, run them across both. Lithiums can be a little funny if running 2 and they are at different voltages/charge %
I build big car audio systems. You should have a secondary high output alternator solely dedicated to the accessories in the back
Just arrived in ur lovely hometown Chris hoping to maybe seeing a build driving about! Keep an eye out for a mad waving English man lol
Get a class T fuse for the batteries. Lithium can output so much current it can bridge and fuse other fuse styles. Also its a good thing to have a disconnect for the batteries.