Sorry for the slow reply. Glad you found half your answer. For the other half, I reached out to my instructor, Tom Healy, who taught a timber framing class I took at the North House Folk School. This finish was his recommendation. You asked a question I should have asked him... I just blindly followed his advice. My assumption was that the D-limonene served to help the oil penetrate the wood, since it is a cleaning agent. He gave a detailed response that confirmed my suspicion, but had a lot of other good information, so I'll share it here: "It is a substitute for turpentine or other thinner. It penetrates better than any other solvent into wood (it is basically a terpene made from orange peel- very similar to biodiesel, which works well too.) I once put only biodiesel made from flax (aka linseed) on the facia of my kennel building in Whitefish. It looked great 7 years later when I moved away. I’ve never tried straight d-limonene, don’t know why I wouldn’t. Also can heat it any of the above for better penetration. (Where the “boiled” comes from in boiled linseed oil - actually not boiled, metallic dryer is added). Add pine tar to the heated solution for exterior applications for a true “boat soup”. (All of the above will darken over time in exterior applications)."
Yes, thank you for showing your errors - we learn so much more when things aren't perfect! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
@ 6:25 you mention linseed oil and d limonene as a finish. Would you provide the ratios, and discuss benefits a little?
Thank you for sharing.
Found my answer in Part 7. Thank you.
FYI answer for others is: 2 parts linseed oil to 1 part d limonene
Sorry for the slow reply. Glad you found half your answer. For the other half, I reached out to my instructor, Tom Healy, who taught a timber framing class I took at the North House Folk School. This finish was his recommendation. You asked a question I should have asked him... I just blindly followed his advice. My assumption was that the D-limonene served to help the oil penetrate the wood, since it is a cleaning agent. He gave a detailed response that confirmed my suspicion, but had a lot of other good information, so I'll share it here:
"It is a substitute for turpentine or other thinner. It penetrates better than any other solvent into wood (it is basically a terpene made from orange peel- very similar to biodiesel, which works well too.) I once put only biodiesel made from flax (aka linseed) on the facia of my kennel building in Whitefish. It looked great 7 years later when I moved away. I’ve never tried straight d-limonene, don’t know why I wouldn’t. Also can heat it any of the above for better penetration. (Where the “boiled” comes from in boiled linseed oil - actually not boiled, metallic dryer is added). Add pine tar to the heated solution for exterior applications for a true “boat soup”. (All of the above will darken over time in exterior applications)."
Also happy that you kept watching the series to find out. Hopefully you found part 8, the final installment :)
What kind of wood are you beams?
Poplar.
@@SalemWoodworks I'm milling up some aspen now, how did it work out for you?