How to Test an Oxygen or O2 Sensor - Plus a Quick Guide on What Each Sensor Wire is For
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- Here is a quick video I made on how you can test an Oxygen Sensor and also what different types of sensors are out there and whats the job of each wire on these sensors.
Links to Tools and Equipment Used in the Video:
Multimeter Used in Video: amzn.to/2bngr5q
Propane Regulator: amzn.to/2b76gpi
Propane Cylinder: amzn.to/2b76P2e
If you found this video helpful please check out these other video's as well:
How to diagnose and fix no heat issues: • How to Diagnose and Fi...
How to test an alternator: • How to Test an Alterna...
How to Test a Car Battery: • How to Test a Car Batt...
How to Find a Parasitic Draw: • How to Perform a Paras...
How to Replace an Alternator: • How to Replace an Alte...
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchetsand Wrenches, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Ratchetsand Wrenches assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchetsand Wrenches, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Ratchetsand Wrenches. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Been a tech 50 years. Best and simplest explanation I’ve heard!!! Great job!!!!
I always recommend my subs to your channel when they asks what other Automotive CZcamsrs they should check out. Awesome video
Subscribed
@@danielfuentes5428 r&r is a beast.
Great video! Finally found a video that explained what the wires are and differences between them and how to bench test them. Great job!
P]
Absolutely great demo on o2 sensor. Was ASE cert mech for 25 yrs. Often found mechanics/teachers made assumptions on trainees basic knowledge. It was impressive you took the time to give detailed explanation. You would make a great teacher.
Wish I had you as a forman when I had my shop. Don't think you were born yet. Lol
Thank you
Joe Mikos Thanks for the kind words, you would not want me as your forman. I sleep on the job all the time hahha
LOL for real! I wish you the best and look forward to watching more vids.
I have been out of commision with long cancer battle but doing fine now. After over ten years I have to do a lot of retraining. Things have changed a lot as you know.
Will definitely be watching and responding in the future.
Thanks again👍
@@myRatchets p2195 code???
I think you did a good job of explaining and keeping the methods and results in perspective! It may not catch all problems but it will save lots of $ for lots of folks.
Finally a down to the point video. Thank you.
Thank you for your videos. They are easy to understand and have been a great help! Good job!
An analog meter with a needle would show if the sensor has a faster reaction. That's the downside of the digital multi meters, you're not only looking at how fast the component is switching, the digital meter has a limited refresh rate.
Finaly someone that properly explains each wire.!
Your videos are always so good. Thanks!
Thanks for the info. Very helpful. just in case no one has mentioned it, the heating effect of a resistance is Watts=(volts x volts) / Resistance. For a 7.2ohm resistance on a 12volt system this is 20Watts. This is a low heating effect, but added to the heat from the exhaust gases I guess it will achieve a two to three hundred degrees celsius.
A scan tool is the best way to test it with the O2 sensor(s) in situ.
If it's both a code reader & one that scans live data,then it will tell you if the sensor is at fault or whether they are reporting a lean mixture due to an air leak or bad fuel pressure.
For example , code for a MAF meter & an O2 sensor reporting a lean mixture will tell you that you may have an air leak.
this is a great explanation, the heater resistance is round about 4 ohms but does vary slightly from sensor to sensor, the sensor reading will rapidly change once the sensor is fully heated all the way around, using the blowtorch is definitely a near as damn it simulation of what the sensor will be experiencing in the exhaust manifold, this is a great way to test an existing sensor and a brand new one before fitting it, it is also a good idea to check the resistance reading of the sensor wires as there should be no resistance reading across it, if it does have resistance then it means that there is carbon crud bridging the sensor wire itself and this build up on an old sensor will cause false readings to the ecu.
Thanks just learned something new
I used the four wire explanation and parts and found two bad sensors. And better to hold torch below sensor head to create a fire shield rather to one side around sensor head! Thanks for taking time to educate the public.
Well done. simple and direct and low cost.
Greetings from downunder oz
Wells tech published VHS tapes on this method back in the OBD1 days, and I found the same thing as you - during testing of sensors that were "sluggish", the heat from the flame (making the o2 sensor cherry red) literally burned off deposits, and "fixed" sluggish sensors (sort of like the self-clean cycle in your kitchen oven). During normal operation, EGT's on a gasoline engine don't get hot enough to burn off these deposits that can foul a sensor over time... but your torch with the pinpoint flame can, and the test procedure itself "fixes" many of the sensors that trip an OBD code for "sluggish", or "slow response". Obviously not going to fix an "open heater" though...BTW - don't bang on the exhaust pipe, or use a hammer on your wrench, or drop the sensor when removing it...or you WILL have an open heater circuit by the time you want to reinstall it... ask me how I know...
How I know?
Or better yet, don't ask me how I know.
Whoa! Thanks for the tip. I never once thought of that!
So are you recommending that we torch all our O2 sensors red hot and then reinstall them?
Very informative. Thanks a lot!
Clear and concise best video out there.
Great video, really helps me! I'm chasing a P2195 (Oxygen Sensor Biased/Stuck Lean, Bank 1, Sensor 1) on my Ford Focus. I've eliminated all other possible causes (vac leaks, exhaust leaks, etc) and have been scratching my head. I replaced my upstream sensor before anything, but I used the cheapest one I could find. This might be my problem, so I'm doing this procedure to check it. Thanks from a new subscriber!
Andrew Edwards don't forget a clogged fuel injector
The best way to test the sensor is to backprobe the signal wires with it in the car and the engine RPM held above idle. The sensor could be producing a good signal, but the wiring to the PCM could be bad, preventing the signal from getting there. A scan tool is great, but that doesn't always mean the signal reported to the scan tool is correct.
Great! Video I always wondered how to test O2 sensors. Just subbed. 👍
***** Welcome aboard, thanks for watching.
Man i love your videos informative and humorous and we'll explained keep up the good work man 👍
Great video, just what I needed! Thanks my friend
The O2 sensor's sensing ability comes about by producing a small voltage proportionate to the exhaust oxygen content. In other words, if the oxygen content is low it produces a high voltage (0.90 Volts - Rich mixture) and if the oxygen content is high it produces a low voltage (0.10 Volts - Lean mixture). Give time for the torch to burn off carbon and heat the tip all around and not just one side.
Hey man, thanks for your video. I have seen another video of yours on touch up painting a car and enjoyed that one. Keep up the good work.
Very good info. Thanks
Good job on the video. Nice refresher Thanks!
Managed to hook up my afr gauge thanks to you mate.
very simple way to explain things - thanks!
Really good video! Thank you
That's great mate.
Thank you!
Really helpful!
very detailed. thanks
Very good video, thanks!
You're a good instructor, I'm giving up on the forums and shops, they've all become jerks who just throw parts at things. I'm hoping this is my problem, I've tried new MAF sensor for P0171 because a shop wanted $500 for that and valve cover gasket (not needed), so I knew they were just throwing parts, at my expense. But I thought 'how can I test sensor without scanner?' I suspect these at 180k miles before my MAF sensor because I also got cat codes in past, like 'catalytic inefficiency' or something. I guess it could be MAF but I've tried two.
Thank you, good explanation.
Just a caveat - some 2 wire sensors; 1 wire is the signal, 2nd wire is the heater, both utilizing the same ground. Nice video....
great video thanks.
Thank you, very helpful.
O2 sensors get cleaned in temperature above 400'c city driving on low revs is not good for them especially on LPG-that's what I did:-) at first O2 sensor was cold what you did with propane torch is not only heat him up but cleaning :-) so at first was lazy because was cold and dirty... Is not that easy to reach 400'c on 1.3 petrol yaris on motorway :-) I did the same by giving my O2 sensor good blast with propane torch and it works a lot better!!! Good video mate! Thumbs up!
great vid!
Nice video. Thanks
Good job.
Great info
Thanks bro! This is going to help me big time.
Thank you 👌🙏👏
I wish I could have seen the alligator clip and the smaller parts more closely other wise thanks much!
Thanks brother 👍👍👍
Thanks, great video Easy to understand, keep up the good work.
you are best teacher :) i have i think wats all yours video thanks
I tried this with an acetylene torch, but accidentally cut the O2 sensor in half.
Um yeah no crap you have to use propane torch because oxygen acetylene gets hot enough to cut plate steel propane does not
@@SheikhN-bible-syndrome its a joke my man
Yeah I threw mine in the coal forge to warm it up few minutes later I came back it was gone idk🤷
Lol
Lol
thank you
If I wire a bunch of 02 sensors in series than throw them into a fire, can they create enough voltage to power my daughter's boyfriend metal camp bed? Asking for a friend.
Did it work?
Enrique Oh yeh bud, they will produce between 1.5 and 3.2 KW which will be enough to warm the bed, cook the dinner and keep the barn warm too for the cow, the goats, the three ducks and the newly born piglets...it's cold down there in Alaska buddy!
@@azizhachimi8744 ;-) :-)
hahahahaha omg thanks!
good stuff.
That crate is property of Dean Foods.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
who does not have at least 1 of those?
@@dallaspilotcar9293 mines owned by dremmel markings.
@Terminology! Your comment started my new year off right lmao
👀💀
Thanks a lot
Great video! Now I know that the signal is created by the sensor not by the pcm.
excellent
I think that certain time you are refering to is 0ne second. since most obd2 oxygen sensor now has heater ciruit element built in. you can identify them by the pair of either black or white wires. Not just WHITE.
Hello can i interface this sensor with any microcontroller for college level project??
Thnx Man
As allways your info is the best :).
Plus i almost never comment. Un less it was helpfull.
HEY! You are OVERHEATING the sensor tip, and also RISKING it because you are overheating only ONE SIDE, and that stresses the ceramic inside!
The PROPER way is to Only heat to a dull, dark red, and no more and doing it in a well shaded room to be able to see the first subtle red color just appearing and then withdrawing the flame immedoately!.
Heating and turning the sensor to heat its tip area UNIFORMLY around, and not concentrating the heat at one side prevents stressing the ceramic inside, as it is fragile.
You may add the caution about not heating the rear portion (behind the hexagon), as you could damage the heater element, thus, the only portion to heat, is the very tip of the sensor, also trying to make the tip of the flame to enter inside the holes, in order to decarbonize the ceramic inside the outer metal jacket, that cover is only there to protect the ceramic and its delicate precious metal deposits, which are what generates the voltage signal. Someone could presume that heating to bright red color didn't damagep his sensor, but not all sensors are so rugged as the factory installed ones, the after market ones tend to be less rugged (and sometimes less durable too!) Best wishes.
Thanks Ratchets, very helpful thanks again! 🙂
Remember that God loves ❤️ you!
Hello any advice... I have a 2005 Trailblazer and getting codes : P0153 and P0054 and P0053. I recently placed both O2 sensors and still have the codes. Could it be the Cat?
That's usually the next Step
Thanks
Nice video. I am having a simple question. Did you heat the sensor (on time 5:15) with a gas tank or with a propane tank?
Looks like a butane torch, I get mine from lowes
Cool. Thanks dude!
How did the multimeter probes attach to the Oxygen Sensor for the voltage test?
Great video! I have a 2006 Kia spectra 2.0l with codes p0171 and p2243. I have a 5wire oxygen sensor for the upstream. Call pls tell me how to test this sensor?
Quite intuitive frfr. So if it ever goes out of the .1-1.0v range then that's also a sign it's no good ?
what is making my 02 stay in open loop ?
please, is the voltage also measured on the two white wires as resistance? Is it enough to use a candle to create a flame? Next time do a test on the Map and Maf sensor thanks for the video👍
I used my scanner and with the engine at normal temperature. The sensor voltage goes a little above 2volts and my long term fuel trim stays at 25%.
Thanks fr sharing yr knowledge,i can fix any car. Im someone different now
A Het gu would be better for heating the sensor. The propane torch burns almost all the air so you would get a reading that indicates a rich mixture. A hear gun only heats the air, and you would get a lean indication.
thanks Man
Videos are cool. Much respect. If you're in California I wanna pay you to teach me in one day how to diagnose and repair ac system
All in all still a good video. ;-)
Hi, I just did this test on my o2 sensor, and is the voltage supposed to go back up on it owen after it drops down to zero? I did the test just like you and the voltage went up to .93v and immediately droped to 0v but then started climbing back up to .23v for about a minute and then started going back down to zero which took another minute.
Radiant heat. That would be fine
Good
hi there, just wanna ask if this is one of the reason why idle drops when coming into a full-stop and causes the engine to stall???
Yes, rough idle/cut-out during idle can be a common reaction to failing O2 sensor. Your car mixes fuel/air ratio based on data from the O2 sensor. If it mixes too lean (not enough fuel), the ratio may not be enough to continue firing, and the engine may even die completely. If mix is too rich (not enough air), incomplete combustion can occur. This may happen more commonly when first driving (especially if your O2 sensor is an unheated one), before engine & exhaust reaches normal operating temperature.
gracias. explicito aun con la barrera del idioma
I need a wire diagram for the front o2 sensor on a 2009 Subaru Forester
your grat man
Where would you find the specifications on your car I guess on the internet what's a good oscilloscope to check the engine if it's not too expensive for the Weekend Warrior on cars
Thanks man! My 4 wire Ford o2 finally reaches .9v but it takes several minutes for it to go down to .1v.
05 Ford 500 o2 code p2197 stuck lean. Running I have fuel coming out the tail pipe. When I took the o2 out it was drenched in gas.
Blade could be bad injectors that are stuck open or bad electrical connection at the injector that forces them to always be open. You might get misfiring but that really depends
Thanks for the reply. Turns out it was a bad PCM. I found 5 skinned wires in the PCM engine harness where it lays on the AC line right beside the low side port near the firewall.
Also it turns out that its a very common issue with a Ford 500. So if you know someone with a Ford 500 warn them that the harness needs routing off the AC line. If this one had gone much longer it would soon have worn a hole in the AC line.
Thanks again for the advice.
Blade No problem. That would have been one of the last places I would looked lol
Yea this was extremely dangerous! In just a few minutes of running the engine, it would put a 1/2 inch of gasoline in a large bowl that I had placed under the tail pipe.
I took the fuel rail out first and and pressurized it to 40 psi which is what the vehicle runs at and pulsed the injectors over and over. So I knew they were working fine. I don't have an injector tester just a home made 9v on and off pulser that I can plug up individually to each injector..
@HexagramMan I replaced the computer. It was keeping one injector open full time.
found 3 wires in the injector wiring harness that were rubbed through and shorted to ground near the firewall. (common on Ford 500) I repaired those wires and that one cylinder stayed on full time.
I also with the harness unplugged at both ends tested to make sure none of the wires were shorted to ground.
#5 injector was getting a full time non pulsing ground strait from the computer.
Is it possible that fixing the shorted wires would have fixed the car without replacing the computer?
I don't think so. It simply would not run right until after changing the computer. There were some other codes going on that I can't remember right now but after changing the computer it ran good. It still took a long time to burn all the gas out of the tail pipe and for it to quit smoking.
If I could get 1/2 inch in a bucket in a few minutes the tail pipe had to be full of gas in the low areas.
Can u receive good continuity and not get close to 1 volt?
So was that sensor good?
Have a question, is this o2 sensor upstream or downstream, is there any different in testing?
Mr. Yang did you every find out?
Is there anyway to find specs online?
gorgeous
Great vid on O2 sensors. Is it a bad idea to just replace all O2 sensors together in one fell swoop? Or just do the specific O2 sensor that triggered a failure? Just recently it tripped the downstream O2 sensor. I just got a used hi-mile 2009 Camry (175,000 miles) and did a huge tuneup. Im in the mode of replacing lots of items to ensure I know the baseline health of the vehicle. -----Thanks & keep up the great work.
Yes. Replace all of them at the same time for the best performance and the longevity of the catalytic converters.
How do you check it on a 1995 vehicle that DONT have a scanner connection? My system is a OBDI system...I guess I could unplug it and see if it runs better or changes....I have a miss...at idle..or any speed or any acceleration...It was missing on 1 cylinder before I replaces the spark plugs...but It still makes a 'bump' or miss once in a while...
Can the touch be used to clean the Oxygen sensor?
Will this test work for a 5 wire sensor ? I can't seem to find a combination of wires that give an output ? Its a NTK sensor off a 2011Kia Sorento.
Thank you very much, very informative
Thanks you doing the best but its easier with live data
Dean Foods wants their crate back... ;)
I have a p0135 and 138 code on my 05 odyssey. I think there's 4 o2 sensors on it.
Hi There. Great video. I'm also interested at this moment about cold engine and hesitation when good idle but then increasing RPM which makes it go rough. As I understand it, the O2's, FPR and EGR have no input until they reach operating conditions. Also how should downstream O2's behave as mine is 290mV generally. If it needs to be high say 900mV then could I make a potential divider and produce the 900mV to see if it ineed makes a difference. I don't know
what current would be needed yet in order to make the devider. I had a
1131code swirl valve and when I cleared it as I needed to for the MOT it
went as above. Also now and before, it went slow up hills and
hesitates. Thanks a lot for any info.