Review and Teardown of a Kaiweets 3010F 30V 10A Lab Power Supply
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- In this video, I did a review and teardown of a Kaiweets 3010F Power Supply. You can get this PS from www.amazon.com/dp/B085S34NNW
00:00 - Intro
01:50 - Voltage setting accuracy
06:00 - Current setting accuracy
08:48 - Load testing
15:05 - Power-on characteristics
17:30 - Ripple
19:55 - Teardown
The trick with those fine/course controls is to always set the fine to the centre before adjusting the coarse.
The best review of this power supply. Very clear and detailed. I love the technical analysis and explanation of the circuit and your English is very good. Thank you
Great presentation. Thanks. I was considering buying one of these
Thanks for the great and informative video. Regardings the bodges and the useless isolation gaps, the whole PCB design seems to me as if a ten year old had a go and copied and pasted several power supplys together to one. Funny enough that the decission was made to invest the effort of glueing down every connector but then leave several components "flapping in the breeze".
This looks built to a good standard, I might buy one.
I missed the part where you used one of your awesome thermal cameras during the stress test :)
Great video and teardown, that white wire could have easily been routed, so yeah it's a good old fashion 'Bodge' if your gonna raise resistors up in the air it would be nice to see ceramic beads on the leg's but I guess not at this price point...cheers.
Yes, there's certainly a lot more to be desired. But again, for the price point can't ask too much more.
I like the HanMatek HM310 myself. The controls are digital, bumping them doesn't mess with voltage or current (you have to push-button the control first), you can lock the settings, AND you can even lock the default ON/OFF state on power-up. Its a really nice low-end switching power supply.
I would avoid ALL power supplies that have analog controls. Its just too easy to blow your project up with a nudge. The pot will change with temperature too, and unless there is a way to lock the settings (which there usually isn't with analog controls).... its a virtual guarantee that sparks will fly.
I specifically avoid anyone who's first introduction to me is an attempt to make me think they are another established Brand Name.
If thats not a red flag...
For Voltage setting accuracy at 1:50, you connected directly
- black(pwr suppy) to black(multimeter) and red(pwr supply) to red(multimeter)
Essentially measuring the voltage across the KAIWEETS black/red supply terminals, OK, no issue here,understood.
But for the Current setting accuracy at 6:00,
- What was your wiring connections setup for this current tests?
I am not sure how you got current flowing as I did not see any load attached to create a loop for current to flow? or am I missing something where its ok to loop the DC supply red & black terminals with the meter in between ? (not too familiar with variable dc power supplies hence my question) -please advise.
Thanks for a great review!
That live power socket scares me, a couple of isolated spade terminals where a must do upgrade to me. A good price point PS.
Which live power socket were you referring to?
@@KerryWongBlog That power input at the back, I think is unprotected but I may be wrong. It is inside the case but I do prefer it isolated.
@@carloca71 Ah yes. the connectors are exposed no heatshrink tubing.
Would you know if a wiring diagram and component schematic is available for repair?
Thanks...does it have a protective plastic over front faceplate to protect it during shipping. I don't see one on mine? Hence, my plastic faceplate has some light scratches.
I didn't remember removing one.
Wanptek APS3010H & APS605H have much better controls/usability wise. But I suspect that in spite of the different brand and very different front panel, I would not be surprised if they use the same power board design, maybe even from the same manufacturer as the Kaiweets!
One of the few times I think I've disagreed with you.
Tired of everything being push button labrynth/memorization.
I want a manual volatage/current setting and having a Coarse and Fine seems perfect. Can you imagine trying to adjust from 2 to 24 volts with a fine pitch?
TBH, to save cost they could make a simple 3-way selector switch, CV, CC, Lock, and if its on CV/CC then just 2 higher quality pots.
Have to watch the end of this video to see if its decent, if so I'll probably get it for general uC projects.
Will it do constant voltage and constant current? Ta
I am looking for a 30v dc power supply for some tesla experiments that I want to conduct. Like making nikola tesla's bifilar coil patent. I am a novice, what are the important factors to consider when buying a dc power supply. Eg linear vs switching. What does that mean?
I noticed, as soon as you turned it on, you had additional noise in your mic audio. Must be a noisy switcher or poor mains filtering.
Do I need to keep the court circuit to maintain the constant current mode ?
I don’t believe so. The current limit should still be set after you disconnect the leads
Kerry, what about transient and noise measurements?
Didn't test transient, I assume you meant ripple noise? I did some measurements at 17:30
@@KerryWongBlog Could you explain why you need a 50 ohm connector for ripple measurement ? I never understood that where you work with 50 Ohm connector and where you just leave it 1Meg ohm of the scope. BTW I have the same Rigol ;)
@@Telectronics There is no specific requirements/standard as far as I know, but usually ripple and noise are measured using 50 Ohm termination to eliminate signal interference. Manufacturers usually lump ripple and noise together and the measurement is usually done within a specific bandwidth (e.g. 20MHz), but again no hard requirements.
@@KerryWongBlog Ok. Is this 50 Ohm connector used with the scope probe or is it 1x cable connection ?
@@Telectronics The 50 Ohm termination is specifically to the the scope input (e.g. on most higher end scopes the input can be switched between 1M terminated and 50 Ohm terminated). You can use 10x or 1x measurement but be aware that for some probes the 1x input bandwidth is limited to only a few MHz or less and that may not give you the readings you intended to measure.
In case you don't know, usually these cheap equipment is from medium size factory in China, that usually employ not-so-good educated girls that not having a proper training of soldering, just a assembly line with shoddy quality control.
I have this one and today it started flashing on and off but the 5v usb power out is working. It's been good and I use it very lightly. What might be the issue?
Hard to tell. When it was on does it regulate the output at all? But the 5V USB is independent of the main power supply that explains why it was not affected.
@@KerryWongBlog I just checked it and it was jumping from 5.38v to 1.46v the readout panel was completely dark and then it just came on and everything went back to normal. Its got to be a connection issue right? Or maybe a cap going bad?
@@jvon3885 There are a few connectors between the main board and the front panel. It is very possible that a few could be loose. Hopefully it's as simple as reseating the connectors. The very fact that when it's working everything is normal suggests that this may be a connection (or cold solder) issue.
@@KerryWongBlog that's k you very much. I'll check a few things. I'm a novice and really just began my venture into this trade but I'm always up for a challenge. Thanks again. I'll repost my finding when they are found.
@@KerryWongBlog hey friend. So I did some tests the FBR showed good and two of three mosfets showed 1.6v one showed under 1v. But it was not turned on. Should this test be done whole there is power to the supply? And if these are good what direction would I go next as far as testing. There are no burn spots yet and it comes on randomly but has yet to return this day. Sorry for bothering.