A Good Commuter Bike Needs ONLY THESE 4 Characteristics
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- čas přidán 19. 06. 2024
- If you're looking for the perfect bicycle for your commute, you need to consider only four aspects. Everything else is secondary. In this video, we're discussing what those four things are.
- Krátké a kreslené filmy
I believe the must-have features for a commuter bike should include a rear rack and mud fenders. Because you don't want your colleagues to see you are sweaty and muddy when you come into the office and you may use your commuter bike for shopping on the way home as well.
Why a rear rack and not a front rack?
@@ForGlory1 Because rear rack doesn't impact your steering and has less wind resistance than front rack.
@@johnbeaver3911 The front rack can be frame-mounted. Less or no effect on steering.
I have a front rack that is mounted to the fork. It works just fine even with 10 kg or a big box. I don't need the best steering in the world.
@@difflocktwo Well, it's up to you to use front rack. The rear rack can carry more load (I used to carry two panniers, 10kg each.) and has less air resistance than front rack. But if you don't mind the load capability and air resistance, front rack is also OK. Ideally, you can have both.
I had mud fenders, but the wheels were wide, and the fenders always scrubbed the wheels whenever something hit the fenders. And I had to fix the problem all the time until the fenders were bent due to too many adjustments (or violently kicking it out of the way in a morning rush).
Eventually, I removed the fenders to save me from the hassle.
I spend at least 3 hours of my day, commuting by bicycle, and I’ve found, that handle bars, seats, their positioning, and shape, are the biggest things I focus on, due to uncomfortable bikes, being dreadful to ride. Also, even with a cheap, or old bike, bringing it to a bike shop, and having components replaced, with higher quality components, as needed, will eventually turn your whatever cheap bike, into something reliable, and custom fit, for your personal preferences and needs. I’d even go as far, as saying your better off, starting with a cheap bike, like one of those 90s mountain bikes, and changing what you don’t like, than spending all your money on something new, only to have to make changes, for it to fit right.
Good points and well made! Thanks for your thoughtful comment!
I am going to swap fork, stem, and handlebar to get more stack height and forward reach.
lol I was happy riding a 90s hardtail and I thought going to a mid tier gravel bike would get me to the next level. It didn't and I didn't want to spend a bunch customizing it. I returned it and now I'm hardtail for life.
3 hours on your bike? I'm jealous.
90s MTN bike commuter here. Nothing quite like locking up a drab grey 30-yr old steel Raleigh and trotting into a store worry-free. I have changed it to a 1X7 drivetrain and replaced lots of worn parts over the years as the support for those bikes remained good for quite some time. It certainly checks all the boxes.
About the bike: you are so right!
Here in Puerto Rico, as there are no bike lanes, bikes are use only as sport or by collectors. I commute on a Schwinn Discover step through (hybrid) with a milk crate on the back. So when cyclist here see me they do not see sport or collector’s material.
But when I ride it through the city many times pedestrians tell that my bike is awesome. Of course! I am using it as transport!
Salutes from Puerto Rico!!
Cheers, and pedal on! A practical bike is an awesome bike!
@@BikeCommuterHero ¡Gracias!
I sold my car 3 years ago, since I do all my travelling by bike. Once, a guy at work said that I must have a real expensive bike since I put in so much millage on it! I just smiled and said: I have four very average priced bikes and they are all vintage. I started out commuting with my 95 Peugeot road bike, I bought a 97 cannondale mountain bike a few years back, I have a crapy specialized cross roads that now serves as a back up winter bike, and my main winter bike is an old Nishiki rock hound that I bought in 87!
My advice is this: 1- very often, the bike you have now probably has the potential to become a good
commuter
2- there is no such thing as a perfect commuter bike
3- what may work for one person may not necessarily work for you
4- even brand new so called "commuter bikes" will nead some modifications
How good a bike performs depends on what you make of it.
And those 80es and 90es steel bikes are really tough!!
That’s some solid advice right there! I couldn’t agree with you more. Thanks for sharing!
I am commuting to work in bike since last 12 years... incredible how time has flown by. Very in agreement with all the suggestions. I started also with a Wal bike... not very cheap, one of the best from the store, but starting to have problems in few weeks... I upgraded few things like the bottom bracket and cassette and boom! working pretty good until got stolen because it looked really appealing how new it was... Learned to store new bike at job in lockers, lot safer than just racks with chains. No more problems since then. Second bike was little higher level. Specialized Rock Hopper. not the most expensive MTB but exactly like mentioned in the video, I don't need more for commuting. I decided to have a MTB for commuting because is funnier for me and also because I like to use sidewalks when possible to avoid risk of cars, so going up and down of sidewalks is better with MTB. It is just the entry level of MTB Specialized, hard tail, but give me lot of fun. So rain, thunder, cold or hot, I use my bike. It also saves gym fees and gym time (and probably also medical costs and time). I hope to continue commuting until my retirement, and I don't see why not reallly. 😉 🚴♀ Live and let ride!!!
These are wonderful tips that are extremely realistic and useful. I didn't feel like you made a video to promote a bike. This was great. Good job and thank you so much!
Thanks for your feedback! Do come by again!
Good advice indeed - as a previous regular London commuter, I agree with these points. Budget looking bikes are the go-to option for peace of mind, allowing you to lock it up anywhere. My bike was based around a road bike frame rescued from a rubbish skip with all stickers/branding removed and built up with good quality, but low cost parts into a flat bar commuter. Many people used to tape over logos and things as well to make their bikes look cheaper. I recommend a very puncture resistant tire for the rear for city commuting. I had a schwalbe marathon plus, which weighed an absolute ton, but was glass-proof, long lasting and provided an extra workout that paid off on my weekend pleasure rides. I had zero punctures with that over 2 years daily commuting.
Great points! Thanks for you insight!
Great video man! I use a hardtail 12 speed fat bike with rear rack, frame bag, bash guard, chain guide,fenders, mirrors, lights, indicators and a horn…👍👍
Really excellent advice, and I like that you mention that not every commute is the same, so different bikes may suit different commutes.
If I were to add anything, it would be suggesting internally geared hubs. They're low maintenance, you can have a full chain guard with them, so not stain your trouser leg and you can change gears while stopped at a red light.
There's good advice here! I agree with low-maintenance as an important factor. I used to get a puncture every few months with the Kenda tyres my bike came with. A few years ago I changed to Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres because they're famous for resisting punctures. Some people hate these tyres because they're heavy and hard. But they grip very well I've had only one puncture, from a 3" nail, in the years since then. Think of all the roadside repairs it's saved me.
My favorite was a Raleigh C50. I shortened the chain stays and installed a different fork(shorter and less rake) with drop bars, eventually it got Sachs ergo power shifters and Shimano drive train. So it now has good cyclo cross geometry . Had a torch at the bicycle shop i woked at . Cool now it's a cyclo cross bike with a sloping top tube that's easy to get on and off. Gee why didn't anyone think of that sooner. Anyway nothing like commuting on tubulars (the cyclo cross type with the center worn smooth) daily and being able to go off raod at the flick of the wrist with confidence . Still have it.
As a bicycle nation (The Netherlands) i would agree with most of your points but we simply also have the fact that now most bikes sold here are ebikes (which means locks and inssurance to feel ok). On these and even normal bikes next to the upright position and 'help when needed from motor'. I would aim for low maintenance so carbon belt bike to an internal hub if possible again one with less moving parts like a enviolo type. On the stealing part a commute assumes you know where you store it at both ends of the ride so make sure you can secure it, insurance and locks (please don't laugh but normal locks for me would be 3kg, when i go to places unknown a second 4kg locks comes with me. Lastly either go cheap as you have outlined or accept thats a car replacement if stolen or damaged insurance will pick it up the bill and you can get a new model (fun!) you will still be way cheaper then using a car or even public transport. And if in a country where it rains always have weather protection with you its just a fact of life i personally kind of like riding in the rain at times....... I am sure many will disagree with some of my comments ....
Bikes at my workplace were stolen out iof the buildings bike cellar, the door damaged and even the locks on the bikes cut, no place is safe.
@@betaich locks are mean to be deterrent elements only. Abandon a bunch of bikes with locks in a unsupervised building for a really long time is not any correct. I have a really decent u lock bike that can handle lots of damage to its structre and core lock mechanism, but i know it can break apart with an angle grinder in 15 minutes or less, so I'm not going to leave my bike in a remote area overnight with a lock
As a bicycle nation in the Netherlands.
I just use my old racing bike to get to work or my mtb.
When you go electric it is not woth it to do by bicycle couse it would take to long. For me 40 km and 40 back is ok for a normal bike.
@@tomb5465 if you think 80km a day is normal for a dutch person its not glad it is for you. i do 50km a day on electric bike in 2.2hours (23.5km/h avg) and mostly 140watts of my own 'power' and i am sure thats more than most dutch people cycle or put into their rides in watts. 80km at avg normal bicycle speed (say 18km/h) would also take 4+ hours a day too much for most people.
@@scb2scb2
On my old giant i do it in 1hour 40 min (23,9 kmh) but this was untrained.
And i like to do it more often.
I changed my scott scale 925 in to road tyres. 1 hour 53 min with the mtb tyres to work wonder how fast it is now.
You got a good average speed and wattage verry nice.
My first bike was a schwinn hybrid. It looked nice, as it sat in my living room. It constantly needed something, always an adjustment. Plus the weight of it, killed my legs. I hated it. Then I bought my Trek. Man, I love riding this bike. Weight is perfect, the fit is spot on, and the components are just great. Research is key when buying a bicycle. By the way, great job in putting out this video. I’m sure there are a handful of people who will not pull the trigger on a big box store bicycle when the bike they really want is a few clicks away, and only a couple hundred dollars more, with far superior components.
I totally agree with you!
If my comment can help anyone- I committed to commuting to work 6 months ago here in Indiana. With all weather factors of all 4 seasons. Heat, sun, clouds, cold, frigid temps, rain, wind, snow. I use a big box department store bike. Its a gravel/fixie hybrid frame. 53cm 700c. I spent $200 US. I tested all models to choose one that was well assembled. Well greased. No bends in the wheels, tubing, and most importantly the Derailler. Shifted well and braked well. Fitted well. Geometrically fit well. Then I also considered the fact of how it was able to take upgrades and after market parts. Things like the Rear Dropouts. Predrilled holes for cages. Tire Clearance. The welds... Are they clean and solid? Have holes? Lack of integrity?... Check welds as well.
Consider all this. As well as spreading the word to your friends, family, and acquaintances because that my lead into you receiving parts or even bikes. Also be patient. Dont rush. You must ride and commute before upgrading because only "YOU" will know what you need and want. Its a matter of preference. My commute is only 11miles round trip. Ive upgraded my bars, drivetrain, wheels, and saddle for less than $150 with quality parts. I have also done personal maintenance as well... Like a overhaul regreasing hubs and bearings. My bike is much lighter, stiffer, comfortable, faster, and smoother now. I'm so pleased as a 40 yr old single fulltime father doing a fulltime bike commute in all 4 seasons 24/7 365 on this lil shred sled!!
In hindsight, I do regret not doing enough research on finding quality bikes with quality components for almost just as much as I have invested so far but then again I wouldn't have this bond... This relationship... This love for this ol city beater!!
P.S. u dont need a bike stand an all the special tools to do it... And u dont have to wear a freakin helmet if you dont want too!! Go burn your legs an smile!!!
Thank you very much for your insightful comment! It's great to get more people's perspective and experience. Hope you follow along in the future and share your experience.
There's nothing like making a bike truly your own to really create a bond with your own unique self powered machine.
You have gone much further than me.
I just added saddle, racks bags, baskets, lights, mirrors, handlebar extension and a variety of other accessories including a trailer.
But it's uniquely mine and you don't have to spend big money on anything.
Enjoy your bike.
But at this time of year be careful or just don't travel on dangerous roads particularly with ice.
A broken bone isn't worth it.
Great video,
I don't have a lot of money so I have a department store bike that is single gear, I have my bike for many years but I did change and modify it. Removing unnecessary stuff, did basic maintenance when it needed, and I am thinking about changing the drive train ratio to make it a slightly faster bike. I live and work downtown which is a high left area, so a nice bike and expensive bike is not an option for me.
That is my take about committing on a budget. A simple bike will do, but you will sacrifice speed and that is the main aggrievating reason for me. Specially when everyone passes me.
Great video and I can't wait to see more biking content from you.
Take care.
I've got an eVelo Galaxy SL, and I adore it ❤ It's an ebike, but the gears work when the power is off, so if I were to run the battery down it's still rideable 🙂 It's kind of like a dutch bike -- It's a step-through frame, and I added a riser so the handlebars are even taller, giving me a very upright posture. It's super comfy 🙂 I installed a cafe/ring/frame lock with a chain, so it's easy to lock up, and I've got a basket on the back rack, so I can carry a bunch of stuff. (I'm in the backpack in the rear basket camp for transporting stuff to and from work 😆) It came with fenders and lights, which are pretty essential this time of year 😛 I added a universal trailer hitch, so I can pull a trailer. I got a pet trailer so that I could carry my black lab if he gets too tired on a ride, but I've also used it for grocery shopping at Costco and WinCo, and with the extra help from the motor I have no trouble hauling my loot back up the hill to my house 🎉 I can't use it to transport my kids (the youngest is 10!), but for solo trips around town my bike can pretty much replace my car 🚲🎉
Been commuting for 10 months now on a few different bikes and just last week or so everything this video explains finally dawned on me. Great video only wish I had seen it sooner! The 90’s MTB part especially rang out as when I decided to do this the first idea for a bike was just that, a built up straight forward work hoarse. But no, I had to have something impractical and “cool”. Now I’m headed in exactly that direction. Spot on sir👍
I'm glad it resonated with you and you found value in it. Thanks for dropping a comment!
I have exactly such a heavy 18.5 kilo steel 90s mountain bike. Twin bow frame. Shimano RevoShift grip shifters, 3x6 Tourney drivetrain with a MegaRange 14-34 threaded freewheel. Beautiful rolling 36 spoke 26" wheels and cantilever brakes. Have set it up with barends and an oversize quill stem to increase the stack height even more. Have been neglecting it for years in favour of my more modern alloy road bike and flat bar hybrid, but i took her out recently to use as a gym bike fir exactly the same reasons you mention. Which is, simple, comfortable, low maintenance, old bike that I'm not afraid to leave locked up in a common parking lot. And I'm loving it! 👍😀
Recently got a "Crescent Nexus 4" "lady bike".
Coaster hub with 4 gears.
100 bucks used, all original parts including the tires and barely any sign of surface rust.
And all i had to do was replace the front brake-pads and get a longer chain so i could place the rear tire in the frame slots. (instead of halfway friction mount, which came loose during my first ride)
Needed a proper utility bike with a rear rack for carrying groceries and the heavy bike-lock, which made my spinalcord happy.
Anyways great video!.
I have a 90s MTB and you just convinced me to keep using it. 💐🏆👍🏼
Ty for the tags. I fast fwd to see them and it grants a like and a whole watch thru
You are truly a man after my own heart! Always commuted on mountain bikes with wide semi-slicks. I would strongly recommend permanently fitted, full-length mudguards so you're never caught out by weather, and a rear rack with a load of bungees is SOOOO useful for hauling home anything you might buy/find on the way. Great video!
I haven’t used bungees on the bike ever since I was a kid. What do you strap to the rack with them?
@@BikeCommuterHero i put em over the top to secure my bag to the milk crate in case i hit a big bump
Wow bro! This is what I needed to hear from a bike vlog! Keep vlogging
Characteristic 1 steel frame ( pure comfort and strong) 2 simplicity in gearing ( friction shifter trigger shifter or single speed bike) 3 5 to 9 speed cassette or freewheel ( with a. 34 tooth cassette or freewheel for climbing) 4 tires multi use tires( for mixed surfaces wet or dry).
Greetings from Bulgaria and congrads for the very good content :)
I'm a commuter in my town from more than 20 years with around 100 000 kilometers in the city!
I absolutley agree with your tips, just I'll put the 4th tip on a first place!
Have a nice day and safe ride to all!
Wow! 20+ years and 100,000+ km! Your sheer stats are an inspiration to me!
@@BikeCommuterHero sorry but my chanel is on Bulgarian :(
In Bulgaria almost all of the bike commuters are with MTB (perhaps 90%+) :) Verry poor road condition and lack of bike lanes in all cityes are the reason for that. Also all the streets and roeads are designed only for cars, not for people :( Just like the amerrican style ....
My commuter bike is a 22 year old hard tail 3x 9 steel frame which had been retired from off road riding....semi slicks, lights mudguards and steel frame put a smile as it did originaly, on the gravel paths and poor quality roads....11miles each way for a 12 hour shift, look forward to a fast spin home 😁
I ride a 12 year old titanium road bike. I do love it for comfort and durability as well as the fact it's rust-proof (we salt our roads heavily in the winter here in Canada, so steel can corrode if untreated). My commute is long enough at 15km each way that I want a bit of speed available for those evenings I'm in a hurry. While it doesn't quite live up to your criteria # 4, it's still not a super high end latest-and-greatest carbon fiber road bike, and not quite so desirable for thieves (I hope). Love the channel, new sub here! 😀
Thanks for sharing this! I'm glad you like the channel!
very good content, thank you very much. There are not such on YT and I was thinking to make one in italian in these days 😅 as for the last point, I just want to point out that Hiplok just released the "anti grinder lock" back in the months and watching the reviews around... looks like really works 😇
This is the most helpful and informative video I’ve seen on CZcams
I'm glad you found value in it. Pedal on!
Still customizing my commuter bike bit by bit. My commute ranges from 6 miles to 23 miles depending on the situation so it's tricky. I'm going with an MTB with as skinny and high pressure tires as possible (continental town and country), adding a rack and pannier and surly drop bars. It's fun just figuring out what works and what doesn't .
The first part of the video is so true. The right touring bike makes you excited to commute to work regardless of what you do!
‘Worried about locking it up’
Yep this exactly. I was originally looking at a Dutch style cargo bike with the big section at the front that’s used for kids/groceries/dog or even a small adult in some cases that I saw in a Not Just Bikes video because that bike with the big storage area for groceries was the first time it really clicked in my mind and I could seriously see it as a car replacement but the idea of leaving something that’s literally priced like a car replacement and attention grabbing around was just… not so much. And then I discovered the Tern with the Captain’s Chair and long ended bikes and there was this new moment of ‘yes this’ because it was big enough and strong enough to handle the load while being slim enough to walk it through a tricky bit of terrain if I wanted to take the short cut across the walking trail creak crossing or put it in the boot (car trunk) or bike rack, as well as not stand out so much in general when around town, while also being way cheaper yet still able to carry an adult passenger if I wanted that.
It’s still really expensive vs something you get at the local store so maybe I might end up going for a cheaper version that can’t carry a second person, but I like that if I wanted that option the Tern range does include bikes that can do that while being more discreet than the other bike I was looking at. Also as someone who’s just getting back into biking and has never used a bike for commuting before, and also doesn’t have kids which I think might help me explain away the bike choice to the average person a bit more rather than ‘I just really liked the trunk space’, I think it’s a smaller mental and social leap to go for the Tern instead, and maybe I’ll get the bigger bike later when I’m more confident and comfortable in my commuting and bike wants or maybe a Tern or something like it will suit my needs better not sure but yes, really like that point of yours about picking something that blends in a bit if doing otherwise would make you anxious and stressed.
Also bike insurance and addicting your bike to a bike registry, or whatever it’s called, in case it’s stolen could also help with piece of mind. I know with the first really expensive bike I was looking at the only way I sort of feel more comfortable with the price was if I had a plan on how to insure it to hell and back against theft.
Also thinking about how I would likely earn a good portion of the money back by not paying for petrol… since as Not Just Bikes points out you could save enough to buy a new bike every year if you take into account all vehicle costs but still not so keen on perhaps needing to replace expensive stolen things or the stress of it.
So yeah, glad I found an alternate bike option to explore that while expensive isn’t as expensive and standoutish for my peace of mind.
I started back in 2013 commuting to work on an used one I bought at a thrift store,I have 3 now (one I built myself) the bike commuting part is the best part of my day, peace 🙋🕊️💪
Love that I have folding commuter bike that also looks like a full sized bike, the tern x22. There’s few times I had to grab food from a convenience store and didn’t trust the area and was able to bring my bike inside stores that have narrow space :)
Another full size looking folding commuter bike I recommend is the Helix bike too.
but make sure you don't leave helix bike out of sight
My old, 2nd hand road bike, equipped with 28mm conti contact plus tyres, panniers and back rack, does REALLY everything - fast commute riding, 5-day bikepack with children, sunday afternoons everywhere, even on gravel ways... But I easily understand the high end cycles vendor stares at me as if I were an UFO... I totally agree with this video (and god bless people who do understand us ;) that it is YOUR bike that matters, the way you cheer it and upgrade it each and every day. Giant thumbs up for this video :)
Thanks buddy! Pedal on!
100% agree. 90's mountain bikes are generally made of cromoly and on a rigid (or even a hardtail) bike, the ride is far, far better than on an aluminium bike and is tougher in the event of a crash.
For commuting, I've bought bikes like these which were very high end in their day but can now be bought for a few hundred on eBay. Also, if they look decent, or from an expensive manufacturer, use removable paint, stickers etc to make it look like the bike just came off a rubbish tip.
See, great minds think alike!
I use my 2016 Trek Verve 3 to get around town and exercise. It has the front coil forks so, it helps over broken pavement. I usually ride 12-16 miles per trip several times a week if weather permits. I have the rear rack and Rock Bros bag installed with a front tactical bag for tools and necessities. It's easy to maintain and I can ride with my wife on her Specialized road bike without being left behind. I bought it to ride with her and help improve my heart function. The 700c tires and 24 speed gearing make it a quick commuter. I have a Cloud 9 seat for comfort with the shock absorber seat post. Getting older makes comfort and good ergonomics a must have requirement! Nice video!
Cheers Gregory! Safe riding!
I have the aventon level 2 and it’s great. I wish they had the step through in my size but I’m taller so I went with the regular frame.
I agree: Number one has to be comfort, which of course is an intensely personal thing. Anything from a road bike with drop bars to an upright Dutch-style bike to a recumbent. But what fits YOU personally. Make sure it's not going to hurt during the ride, or you will end up dropping the bike and going back to the car.
The semi-recumbent is my personal favorite, followed by a Dutch style bike with an old school mattress saddle with the springs stretched under the padding.
I would put ridability as number two. It should pedal easily and smoothly. If it feels like work, you won't want to do it more than a few days. It doesn't have to be fast, but it does have to feel natural.
And three, reliability. This is why I love hub gearing. I also use heavy duty puncture resistant tires with thorn-proof inner tubes. Flats are the worst. You can't stop them from happening, but you can make them as rare as possible.
Helpful stuff!!! Great video😻
My current summer commuter bike is actually a very old department store bike of sorts - it's an Eaton's Glider, built by Raleigh for a long-defunct Canadian department store chain, probably in the 1960s or 70s. I bought it used in 2008 for $C40 (plus another $30 or so to make it roadworthy since it had been sitting in a garage for a couple of decades) and it's one of the most practical bikes I've ever owned. It's basically a Raleigh Sport under a different name, with the upright-type handlebars, crossbar frame, 3 speed Sturmey-Archer hub, and rim brakes.
More recently I decided I wanted a winter bike, so I picked up a rather similar one, called an Empire. I know nothing of the history of the company, except that from its logo I think it was Canadian. This one is a single speed with coaster brake and step-through frame, almost like a Dutch bike. Had to swap out the front wheel for one that could take a studded tire, though, because they don't make studded 26 x 1 3/8 in tires, but I've been riding it in snowy and slushy conditions without trouble.
Both of these bikes get used most often to get to work (3 km) or to the grocery store (a bit less), sometimes 6-7 km for other trips. Terrain is very flat (Winnipeg, MB) so these bikes wouldn't be suitable for everyone.
Great points. My commuter is belt driven and has an internal hub 8 speed…..requiring minimal maintenance
What is it
I agree, I am totally in love with my no-maintainance internal 8-speed hub on my cargo bike, and would really love to have it on my commuting bike... That's the next step 👍
@@loveloreal I have a lekker Amsterdam 8
Priority?
I agree with you 💯%.. specially being low-key. Simple is better.
My hybrid bike ticks almost all the boxes. But the $530 I spent on it, plus the sentimental value and attachment, it leaves me a bag of nerves when it’s out of my line of sight. Of course, I’ve seen a guy in my town leave a multi-thousand dollar salsa fatbike unattended a few times while he shops, but I don’t think I have that kinda courage.
For years I used either mountain bikes or hybrids, but this time I wanted something different. I wanted something that was comfortable and I would almost never have to think of maintenance.
I got a single speed cruiser with coaster brakes, a front basket, a back mount with a pannier and fenders.
It's comfortable, the chain and brakes never go out of alignment and I've never had an easier time bringing groceries home since I don't have to carry all that heavy stuff on my shoulders anymore.
Dear god why aren't cruisers given more attention in america? I should have switched over years ago.
Different bikes for different scenarios. I am currently riding a gravel grinder with panniers. It allows me to hit dirt roads/trails on my way to work. I have a pub bike, which is a 90s MTB and I am not worried about it being stolen. I am about to pick up an e-Bike and this will be my mainstay commuter. Fenders, lights, can do dirt and tarmac, front suspension fork, pannier rack and looks to be way more comfortable than my gravel grinder. The bike is a focus aventura. Not cheap, but I will be in a secure parking spot at either end of my journey.
Good advice, I commuted 11 miles each way across London on a 90s GT mountain bike, well that was in the 1990s. I changed the quick release wheels for normal nuts after getting a wheel stolen after the first 2 weeks.
Nuts are all one needs unless we are doing the TDFrance that day.
i ride a high end road bike with 4 or 5 d locks locked to "your" rack and clip shoes i carry a backpack the waist and chest straps cycling t shirts jogging trousers ,lite waterproof coat...about 8 years of cycling to work 8 mile per day ...some people say speed not important but i say zoom zoom to them.
One thing I want to add is that for many people, a commuter bike acts as a fitness bike, when trips are combined with training, a regular bike does not allow you to reveal all the sports capabilities, riding a bad bike 2 times a day, 5 days a week is a waste of time.
That's an interesting point I have pondered many times over. I do enjoy the health and fitness aspect of bike commuting, but I came to the conclusion that I'm going to get fitter no matter what bike I ride. Nowadays I'm even riding a Brompton or an electric Brompton clone, and they are both great as they allow me to get some exercise in. Sure, I could ride a more efficient bike, but the fitness aspect is determined by how much I push it. Some days I want to go faster, other days I want to take it easy. The main thing is to have a dependable bike! Pedal on!
I just have a secondhand mountain bike that I attatched a rear rack and panniers to. I use it for everything- it is a work-horse, I don't need suspension, I don't need to be going fast- gears are important in the hilly region where I live, especially when I'm loading up with heavy cargo- chunky tyres are good as I can go off the road and take shortcuts or more scenic routes and deal with potholes, debris, drains, speed bumps and stuff more easily. It's great, I can carry stuff that would suck to carry on foot and cover distances where I might've chose a delivery or a bus for free- all while feeling fitter and less tired/low.
Trip up to 3 miles: 1) wrapped around handlebars, higher than the seat = seated upright.
2) stepthrough and rear panniers, lower c.g. and get the load off your back = no sweat on your back.
3) chain guard and mud guards
4) 3-speed, no more.
depends on your hills, i'd say 7-8 are fine, and an internal hub is nice
@@gregg48 yes, it depends. I live in Walnut Creek 94598. Fairly flat, several LONG trails. I also pushed it to 8 miles (Walmart) but that's it. "Dutch" bikes (mine Fyxation Third Ward) are heavier. Anything over 8 miles, I ride my Trek 1.2 or my MTB Specialized Rockhopper.
3 gears... only if you live in flatland.
@@OOTurok you are correct. If you read my postings you have all the answers.
How many kms is 3miles?
I found the ideal bike for my commuting, fitness, touring and roaming around. The Priority Classic Gotham, got it for $499. with the discount of $100.. upgrades of MICHELIN tires, Sylvan pedals and mirrors. The lowest of the 3 speeds is a challenge in the southern Indiana hills, so I stand up on the steepest of hills, no big deal. Handling is quick but predictable, the bike makes me smile 😃.
I bought a Giant Escape RX for daily commute and I think it is an amazing balanced bike, confortable enough and fast enough. Also what is good about GIANT and also TREK is that they offer the accessories like mud guards, kick stands and paniers racks. which fit perfectly without any tinkering.
It’s a great bike indeed! Safe riding!
I ride a 1991 Costco MTB that I bought new. It has an "all" chrome molly Tange Premiere frame and fork. I've upgraded the stem and handlebars for a more upright position. I've added racks front and back with folding panniers, fenders, and my "most loved" upgrade. An Enveolo 380 hub. What a difference that makes for the ride, and maintenance. Will never have a bike without it or a Roloff hub. Looking to maybe add a CYC Proton motor system to it as I've gotten older.
Sounds like a sweet ride.
Stuff that I want on my bike:
- high and or swept back handlebar
- street tires
- a rear rack;
- honorable mention to ebikes and step throughs
What I don't want on my commuter bike:
- a expensive looking frame
- a front derailer.
Got a emtb for commuter so Will perfect for the winter
I city commuted year round on a Trek 820 for years. Only mods were skinnier tires and a rear rack. No one messed with it except once someone stole my front quick release hub. Still remember the long shameful walk home. 😭
I still have the bike I once bought in 1997. Still works reasonable well, got a lot of kilometers on it. And should I loose, I would shrug cause I have a new one. Still keeping it because maybe I could use it in a bike1 - train - bike2 system.
Thanks for the video! ⭐⭐! I wonder if you would point out some characteristics / feathers which a good bike should have. *For city commutes*
- I have Marathon Plus tires so I don't have punctures, and can ride on 'gravel' bike paths also. I found I replace them about every 5 years, because they dry out and become more puncture-prone.
- I have hydraulic disk brakes. Unlike on a road bike I'm riding in the rain and in the city, in traffic, next to pedestrians, through public parks, at night, you have to be able to stop easily and reliably.
- A rack and a pannier, both for shopping and for commuting with a laptop.
- Lights of course because daytime is short in winter.
- I have dual-side pedals, SPD on one side and flat on the other, so I use it with street shoes or bike shoes.
- A "New York Fahgettaboudit" U-lock, and the wheels are locked to the bike too.
- A nice range of gears, I usually only use the upper range but that's because I'm stronger now and can stand up on the pedals when going up-hill.
- A helmet and gloves because I fall off about once every 2 years
- No suspension (except the tires, gloves, and being able to stand up on the pedals e.g. on cobble-stones or pot-holes)
- You recommended steel, mine's aluminium, it has a few nicks in the paint but no rust
- I agree with a mid-range price e.g. mine was $800 new about 12 years ago (pays for itself in a year by not needing public transport) -- "regular maintenance" just means changing parts when they wear out, e.g. top-up the tyre pressure, change the disc brake pads every 6 months, the chain every year, the bottom bracket and tires every 5 years, and the wheels every 10 years.
LOL I took off all the decal flash off my bike. And I LOVE panniers.
Since I need to commute 22 km each way, speed is important for me. During the summer months with generally good weather I ride an efficient steel road bike. It has a relaxed geometry for comfort. Although weather is mostly good when I ride this, I have it fitted with fenders in case I'm caught by unexpected rain showers on the way. It's borderline too expensive to lock-up outside, but my workplace has secure bike parking.
When weather gets crummy and roads are constantly wet and dirty, I switch to a sporty hybrid bike with flat handle bars, wider tires, sturdy fenders, and a rack to carry a bag. This has a hub generator and permanently installed lights, as it tends to be dark early during the months when I use this bike most.
This hub generator is a blessing in those dark and damp days to come. Mine is a very similar choice of commutes, but with a shorter distance to cover I also have a summer fixie for fun and a winter one for traction, so much better this way, you feel the road as if walking.
Back to this basic dark days bike, I like to have swallow handle bars and a coaster brake in the internal hub, no need to engage hands when you want to slow down or stop, as I mostly move within the city limits.
Outstanding!
If you want the perfect commuter bike then you need probably 4 different bikes, to fit your mood, the weather, distance, time crunch, etc. 😆
I can’t disagree with you!!
Still cheaper than running a motor car!
So many good points.
I'm glad you liked them. Thanks!
Agree with all these categories. To me, in my reality, they translate into the following priorities:
1- Noseless seat (honestly, I don't understand where you guys put your junk, in fact I never enjoyed cycling before discovering noseless seats)
2- Step-through frame
3- Shock-absorbing seatpost
4- Front and rear racks
wow you must have a massive dick and balls
I have a Canadian Tire special that I paid 220.00 CDN. I use it for approx. 12 km per day at 5 days per wk. Good mountain bike look, I ride gravel on highway shoulder. The only modification was an extra fastener at the handlebar because it was slipping downward due to crappy roads . Tires and tubes are the only other expense. Good bike for the price considering how gas and car expenses have risen lately.
Living in a flat country like the Netherlands I prefer a fixed gear bike both for the low maintanence and for the low price. The components that I do need, especially bearings, are top notch. For me gear ratio tends to go to the speedy side, 80-85 gear inches. One other thing to consider is what kind of handle bars you choose. The handle bars determines how much wind you catch. The choice is between the more comfortable high-rise or flat bar to the more aggresive (and faster) bullhorn or dropbar. I prefer the latter on my 27km commute. Driving through the woods I prefer a dyamo hub over battery lights, because it is a real problem when the batteries are unexpectedly empty when you have to drive back.
90's MTB RULES!!! I have a 1spd, 1x7spd, and I am working on a 3x8spd. Mr. Tuffy's (tube protectors) are a must on any commuter. Nothing quite as annoying as to come out to your bike after a long day at work only to find you have a flat. Tube protectors are lighter than slime, a whole lot cleaner, and you will buy them once (even if you wear out your tires). They also allow you to buy any tire you want.
No. The liner between the cord and tube only stops the tube from being punctured. The the cord in the tire still can be easily cut and if the cut is large the tire will need replacement anyway. There are some tires that resist puntures very well. Some have punture resistance going from bead to bead . Yes they are heavy and have more resistance. So do those strips. But since the Ebike became more popular the manufacturer stepped up the game with tires that ride nice and are very puncture resistant. They have also lowered the rolling resistance to give that Ebike a little extra range . So commuting on Ebike certified tires is a good option too. Or one can commute with cyclo cross tubulars glued on to the rims as I did for decades into down town campus in Madison Wisconsin. Monday morning after a foot ball game the roads were an obstacle course filled with broken glass....
I bought a 2022 Trek FX 2. A sweet Commuter 👍
For my commuting in the hilly district in which I live I bought a new hi - ten steel frame, fully rigid 26'' MTB, with fenders and mudguards. Not so far from the 90s MTB but more confortable than the same size of two decades ago.
Sounds like you have a sweet ride.
My commuter bike is a 20 year old trek 520, it has rear rack, mud guards, 700 x35 mm tires, i oil and clean the chain weeklyand i use it for work (about 5 mile) grocery shopping; laundry, etc. etc. ho! And also i have rechargable lights and a lock.
Very convincing arguments
Department store bikes can be upgraded as things break down. This is a good way to learn about maintenance and customize it to your specific needs. It can cost less than something from the bike shop if you have the time and patience to learn to work on your bike.
I got a used giant escape for not that much money and built a bike designed to fit me using parts I found along the way... It's a good commuter. A good bike is something you can add too and it's simple.. cus of cobble stone I'm thinking of adding front shock forks in the future.
Loving your content. Thinking of starting to bike commute, though probably not full time. Would be 22-23 miles and I’m a bit daunted by the scale of that.
Thank you for your kind words Peter! You could do it a few days a week or you a multi-modal commute too. There are so many cool options out there. I’be just attended a bike exhibition and I’m certain that bike commuting is going to grow significantly in the coming years.
Do a test ride on the weekend. Worst case scenario, you take a brief break or ride an easy gear to your destination. 20 mile rides seem daunting, but it's less about the destination and more about the journey/fitness. Do it.
Recently saw a good suggestion on thread for this…. Split over consecutive days, for example ride to work Monday morning then get a lift home, train, tram etc that evening before reversing the following day. Over time the confidence and fitness would get to a level where you are ready to tackle the “there and back in a day” ride. Ride on!
Totally agree with your analysis. I had quite a long commute through the countryside (so very dark in the winter months), and the best modification I made was to fit a hub dynamo. I also added tri bars because of the hellish winds. I often wondered if a belt drive and hub gears would be a cost-effective way of minimising maintenance time and costs - I'm retired now, so never found out, but I still love my commuter.
Rear rack with big basket is great, much better than sidebags... So you don't need to have that backpack on your back when you drive, and it's faster to use.
The alternative to locking is bringing it inside as a folder. Obviously only applies if a folder fits your other criteria.
I'm old school. Long lasting, all weather bicycle is single speed and if you want to have more fun - fixie. But I'm not a person from mountains area. :)
Pedal on!
My daily rider is a 100 year old (nearly) Rival originally made in a shoe factory in my home town of Norwich. it started as a simple single speed with just rod brakes and mud guards - but now has calliper brakes, stainless rims, integrated battery lights (approx 22 hours worth of runtime) which cut out when the front dyno hub is up to speed, a 4 speed dyno hub in the rear to power the lights on my cycle trailer, a cut down derailleur used as a chain tensioner, front and rear racks, wide sprung seat, tall bars with extra upright ends, mirror, hooter and dual sided rotary bell, frame mounted lock (plus a steering lock at some point even though it looks like a pile of scrap metal), center stand, mechanical speedo and soon to have brake lights too! It’s one of the heaviest bicycles I’ve ever known but it doesn’t feel it when riding, I can get it up to 15mph quickly almost anywhere and I run out of gears -there are only 4- at about 25mph but easily hits 30 or more rolling down a good hill, maybe faster if it didn’t have knobbly tyres. I wouldn’t trade or sell it ever
#5: a place to leave your bike on the other side. Like a garage with an attendant. That helps a lot
And here endeth the bike commuting gospel according to the Bike Commuting Hero. Amen!
So true brother, so true.
I loved the bike you used as an example of being personalised....
.... you should see mine! 😂🚲
Great video and again.... So true.
Amen brother! Thanks for coming by!
I'm planning to change the pedals on my Giant Escape bike, can you recommend me some good nylon pedals please
I live in suburbia. I have single speed 28cm tire bike for commuting but I am converting to MTB because although the roads are ok there are some pot holes and fallen branches and cars and I have to get off road With the MTB I know I can go into rough areas any time
I like how everyone pitches in on the comments with bicycle videos
I have trifold bike and also an Aleoca Viaggi folding bike, basic shimano tourney 6 speed with front and rear racks. I use that Aleoca alot more going to places, send kids to sch or going to the market. It's the most reliable and safest as i dont need to worry when i lock it up.
I feel that no matter what bike u have, u will need at least one workhorse bike for everyday use 😂
I solved the theft paranoia with a folder. I don't do business where i can't bring it in. Fits in most carts!
Does the weight of steel frames make it harder for hills?
Re: Department store bikes…never again. I had one as a 16 y/o lad. Gift from parents. Was OK enough for occasional use. Then I took it on a 600km bike packing tour. Big mistake. During that tour I probably paid as much for spare parts as the bike cost and I ended up binning it shortly after the tour. Rear hub bearings were shot after about 250 km (had to replace entire rear wheel), the chain broke, gears were stripped requiring a new cassette, front rim was cracked, brake cables snapped, crank bearings went bad…almost every moving part on that bike failed on me at some point. Towards the end cracks had started appearing in some welds and I was like „screw it“. I am convinced that parts of the bike were made of mild cheese or something. It was utter junk that was completely unfit for more serious cycling activities.
Parents, if your kid(s) go on a longer trip on their bikes, get them a good bike and NOT one from a department store. It’s not worth it.
I agree. Stay away from department store bikes if you can.
I have 4 bikes and I don't own a car. My favorite commuter is a fixed gear gravel bike. Very low maintenance and a fun go anywhere ride.
So which one you recommended for work?
In 1977, I purchased a 1974 Schwinn Speedster. Bomb-proof Chicago frame, Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub, fenders & chainguard. Inherently theft-resistant. It's still my daily! Best $40 I ever spent!
Amazing!
Superb advice -- as you say, old mountain bikes make excellent commuter bikes. Especially if you fit a higher rising handlebar stem for a more upright riding position.
I have a folding mountain bike. This is not just convenient -- it's also good for security because it's easier to lock up, and because a low profile jumble of metal bike bits looks less appealing to thieves.
It's also worth investing in good tyres that have thicker and better quality rubber so they are more resistant to punctures.
Hope this comment helps everyone -- and thanks again for a great video. 😃🚲
If you comute over exclusively concrete get some smooth tiers. It massifly boosts the energy efficiency
I can luckily take my bike inside at my workplace, so I'm not too worried about it getting stolen. And since there are a fair number of nice bike paths on my commute, I can actually go rather fast, making my gravel bike the ideal choice.
Comfort is key for commuter bike. Dutch bike is the ideal..fender, mud guard, bell, rear / front rack, dynamo light, bell..all necessary to make am excellent experience.
Airtag is a exccellent idea nowaday
What if you have a road that is unmaintained, then a mountain, then alot of highways followed by an downhill through forest?
Airless tyres (Tannus work best) are a must to avoid puncture repairs or having to periodically add air per pneumatic tyres. Team up with security skewers and you don't have to worry about locking your wheels up.
Yea if you hate yourself and want to make cycling a painful experience
@@klettersteig599 - before using Tannus I had a set of Swalbe Marathon Plus tyres on my rims. They are heavier, have about the same grip and are not much different in feel/comfort when inflated to their maximum suggested pressure. I doubt you too would be able to tell the difference.
@@stephenconnolly1830 to be fair, I’ve never rode a pair, no air just seems inherently wrong and seems like it would fail to absorb any road chatter
@@klettersteig599 - but that's just a symptom of refractory prejudice showing, not wanting to embrace the new.
Actually, airless tyres like those from Tannus do contain air but in the form of microbubbles and the material is classified as a foam (deformable, of course). My experience after 5+ years' is that modern airless tyres have superior properties over pneumatic ones without really compromising their best features.