Dimpling the Forward Skin on my Sonex-B Wing Assembly

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  • čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
  • In this video I demonstrate my process for dimpling/preparing the forward wing skin and ribs on my Sonex-B aircraft kit.
    #sonex #sonexaircraft #homebuilt #homebuiltaircraft #experimentalaircraft #rivets #riveting #dimple

Komentáře • 9

  • @sleepylight
    @sleepylight Před 4 měsíci

    Strong work on your plywood jig. I like that a lot.

  • @SkunksWorks
    @SkunksWorks Před 4 měsíci

    Nice to see a new video Dan! Keep 'em coming!
    Isn't it crazy that there are those of us that enjoy building? 😁

    • @dan_der_flieger
      @dan_der_flieger  Před 4 měsíci

      I genuinely enjoy the building part of aviation. Probably more than flying, if I'm honest.

  • @johnjensen2217
    @johnjensen2217 Před 4 měsíci

    Thanks for the video. I like to see this level of detail to get a clear understanding of the work being done. I have a couple of questions regarding riveting the leading edge to the wing skins. Do the rivets at that lap joint go into the spar cap or are they just through the skins? Looking at the view from the end it seems the spar cap has a taper to it that prevents the skin from being pulled tight against it. Why are some of those rivets dimpled and others not?

    • @dan_der_flieger
      @dan_der_flieger  Před 4 měsíci +1

      Hey John. The rivets in the lap go thru the spar caps as well (top and bottom). Those particular rivets are not flush (and, consequently, the holes are not dimpled).
      On the inboard end of the wing, there's another sheet that is also fastened with rivets (they call it the "root skin doubler"). My interpretation of the drawings is that those holes are also NOT dimpled. I emailed Gavin to see what his thoughts were and he had come to the same conclusion. My thought was that dimpling 3 skins and riveting them together is likely to yield some amount of gap/play, which reinforced my decision to just use normal rivets there with no dimple for the root doubler holes.
      I should also mention that the drawings only call for flush rivets on the forward skin, but not all of the holes on the forward skin.

    • @johnjensen2217
      @johnjensen2217 Před 4 měsíci

      @@dan_der_flieger Thanks for the prompt feedback. Looking forward to the next video.

  • @pandyseven
    @pandyseven Před 4 měsíci

    You had me look twice there a bit, it’s the first time I have seen you without a hat….
    It’s always concerned me on how to get the forward skins tight against the ribs, do like your idea, with one added caveat and that is I believe it better to work from the leading edge toward the spar that way you wont end up with a hump.

    • @dan_der_flieger
      @dan_der_flieger  Před 4 měsíci

      Haha. Yeah, I do wear a hat often. I like to cover what my wife calls my "solar panel."
      You sort of have to work from the back forward. The aft skins align with the rear spar (both are pre-drilled to mate with each other) and then the forward skin matches the forward-most holes in the aft skins, but you have to drill through both into the main spar (top and bottom). Once those holes are lined up, then you drill the holes in the forward ribs. To prevent a hump, you have to drill the ribs from the spar to the leading edge because the aft side is already in place.
      It would be better if the forward skin was bent more and didn't spring outward as much as it does. It seems to add stress where it doesn't need to be.