I'm having an easier time getting old SBC components. Everybody wants an LS in their rod. Practically giving away the old stuff. And I'm real happy to take it off their hands.
Only problem is buying readily available parts if you're traveling. Most everything is special order. Could wait days or weeks for parts. One reason why drag and drive or power tour events everybody prefers the LS.
Every wants LS. My Silverado has the DI 5.3 and it's a beast. Ls is very good stuff but my heart is will old school. The after market is turning away from GEN 1 stuff rapidly.
Have yet to own an LS powered rig. Live in the southwest so older trucks can be kept indefinitely. Not a fan of all the sensors and plastic atop Chevy engines after ‘95.
As a self titled chevy parts hoarder....I say you did an excellent job of tracking down the heritage of this 350. If the block, heads, crank are usable, you have a good haul. I have done this casting/code dive many times, and I find it fun when you can still locate some old school gems.
I had a set of those "186" heads on my 74' 350 I built for my 68' Nova, traded a 71' Nova for them from a machine shop, they did a valve job and PINNED the rocker studs because they like to pull out of the heads. They worked well in stock form. In this day and age, I think the casting date is what will bring the value for those heads, performance wise you would be way better off with late 90's Vortec heads,.
...but then you can't use the intakes that came with the engine, because the intake on a Vortec head bolts in differently, like a Ford. What makes the "good" factory heads, like the 461/462's and the 186's valuable is that they're a slightly thicker casting compared to some others. This means you can port them out more and you have more material to shave off the bottom of the head.
High lift cams will pull the studs out because the gap on the spring at full lift are under .030" this causes them to actually = 0 under full throttle due to the vibration. Turn engine over until full lift is achieved and check gap with feeler gauge if under .030 get some new springs that are for higher lift. If lift is over .450 stock springs will not work and will eventually destroy the head by breakin off the the stud boss.
They are Good with Flat Top Pistons ..I feel the Large Chambers Flow more Air at During Intake ..I did a Flat top 350 with Worked over Set of These Heads( Bowl Work Port Match Presion Seats) Stainless Valves ( Back Cut ) Mild Cam .Intake 650 holley ,Headers in a 65 C-10 Muncie 4 ..Surprised many People.
@@donaldalbershardt6854, I like the small block 350 , don't get me wrong here , I have multiple 350 engines in 2 bolt and 4 bolt mains . But the 283,302 ,307, and 327 will out perform a 350 , but you would say that the 350 has more cubic inches and that is correct . But these shorter stroke engines will scream to the moon , I got a small block 327 that can scream at 11,000rpm before the valves start to float and makes around 600hp . It can pull both front tires off the ground in 1st and 2nd gear and this engine is in a 66 Chevelle Super Sport with a M-21 Muncie 4 speed and 12 bolt posi , Talk about a Blast to drive !
Additionally, up until the plug-size changes ('68-'69) all SBC'also had forged steel cranks which you can verify by the wider parting line and cast iron having a more pronounced, thinner parting line. (cast cranks make the best boat anchors...)
Great video. Just a couple of tips from an old General Motors mechanic. First, I knew it wasn't a 327 without you ever reading the numbers. 1) 327's did not use a pcv valve, (nor did 265's,283's, 302's,or 307's)they had closed/sealed valve covers. They used an internal ventilator can mounted under the intake manifold that then fed to a tube on the back of the block. They didn't start with the pcv valves until they started making 350's.Also 327's never came with 4 bolt mains. Not even the 327/375 hp engine. So even though the 375 hp/327 was the highest horsepower rated SBC. It is usually less desirable than the lesser 370hp LT1 engine (Corvette only) only because the LT1 engine was a 4 bolt main block. I was lucky enough to own a 1970 Corvette 350/370hp LT1, And a 1957 Chevy with a 1965 327/375hp Corvette engine. And trust me, both would smoke the tires for a country mile. Also Chevrolet used the 2 letter suffix code until 1969, in 1970 they went to a 3 letter suffix code ie. CTX. Hope this helps. Thanks for the video
Did a 1967, 350, have the 327,s SMALL JOURNAL crank mains? Also could a Small Journal 350, crank be used in a 327, making that a 350? Is there a clearance problem?
@@davidcoleman9304 - Just about anything can be put in anything if want to work at it hard enough... like a stroker crank to turn a 302, 327, or 350 into a 400"...
I’m pretty sure the “O” & “X” casting connecting rods were both used in the performance engines and were known as the “Pink” rods. So the best old school factory rod.
SB Rods not cast. They were forged. Rods that were used for making pink rods could have been used for std rods too. Don’t make assumptions. Often pink rods color would be present on used rods. Sometime not. Another case of “don’t make assumptions.” In old days fakers would paint rods pink and sell as real.
@@sliderule1702 I’m not assuming anything sir, I was trying to remember information from 30+ years ago. Look it up I’ll bet you $100 cash money right now the “X” casting and the “O” castings we’re both used in the performance engines with the designation “Pink”. Are you ready to put your money up? 🤷♂️
The only difference between a pink rod or a none pink rod was the pink rod was mag fluxed 3 times that's the only difference ,GM says the powered metel rod is stronger dirt track guys push this rod to 7200 rpm and it survives
In my opinion, for your average 300hp street runner a factory dual plane intake is hard to beat. Until some head work gets you into the higher RPMs the single planes don't show much advantage.
If it has flat top pistons it is a 300 hp 350, most of them had 041 heads, but I have seen these heads on more than a few. LT1 or 302 heads would have screw in studs and guide plates.
Dang man, you got a good deal on that engine, how rare. As you said, that it is so unusual to find one these days original. Great break down of all the numbers as well, don't think anyone else has done that Indepth of an overview before.
Your so lucky to run into one fine engine, Damm miss them old engines mine were the 283'-327 pre-sixty eight had the oil filter canister type filtering
My first car was a 1977 Buick version of the 1977 Nova. 305 2 barrel but for a first car in 1987 it was great! And I literally purchased it from a nun!
It has a flat cam shaft and they were trying to get it from back girding threw the carb . So they kept tightening the rocker arms and pulled some studs.
Very nice that it wasn't pieced together from different engines. I've never been able to decode the numbers and letters on the front pad but I'll keep working on that.
Good day hot rod hoarder on my 327 1967 I have the same heads and the same problem with the studs what I did drilled out on the side of the head through the studs and put roll pins in them never had a problem with it again (great find) 🏁🏁🏁
That's too bad the block was not a 4 bolt but it don't really matter the 2 bolts are strong too anyway the camel hump heads were the heads to get back in the day but since the vortec heads were made the camel hump heads were not so sought after because the vortec had bigger ports then the double hump
2 problems with the Vortec heads, they are way more prone to cracking and will need a different intake manifold, however they do flow better and are easier to find a replacement if you need one.
I pulled one identical to this out of a 69 impala. It's stuck and wont turn over, but it's complete with A/C, P/S, and all, with the transmission. It has 300hp turbo fire 350 right on the air cleaner. What will I do with it? I don't know... Hoard it? Yes! hoard it! It might be a good builder some day!
Before you tell us your results, I'm gonna hang my 50+ yr SBC rep out & say it's a 350... the front & rear intake rubber center seals are the give away. They didn't have the nipple holes in the block til 69. Also, the harmonic in the front was new in 69.
With the HN number and the camel hump heads I’d bet this was the 69 hi performance versiom of 350. The 295 horsepower version in 68 came with 194 heads not the 202 camel humps. I use that edelbrock intake with 1” open spacer on my 68 350 and it’s a huge improvement over original. Plus weight of of course.
This is an ultra-rare, big journal, cast crank 2-bolt 350. One of 5.5 million made. DZ-302's would have had screw in rocker studs and 2.02 / 1.60 valves. These will have 1.94 / 1.50 valves These engines ran well in 69-72 Chevy/GMC pickups.
@@merylpelosi8485 I never went by the casting numbers. I went by the stamped letters in front of the right bank head. All the ones I had were stamped CNR, 69 to 70 350's.
By looking at the front of the engine. I would think it was taken apart. Just the front of the engine is painted. You may be right about an upgraded camshaft.
All ten Chivy small block denomiations have their own distinct sounds due to port configuration and the firing order being 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Because garbage, boat-anchor, belly-button LS's have both a different firing order and port configuration, they do not even sound remotely similar to an SBC. This is my biggest reason for my disinterest in them. Hotter? Faster? Better? Dont care. I cut my teeth tuning a 1955 265 by ear as a youngster at my Dads behest. They didnt even have an oil filter, that 1st year of production. (maybe why they are so unobtanium!!). So once I realized that 28° of dwell yielded the hottest purple-white spark to be had out of a Delco coil it was all down hill from there. With care you can fit any SBC crankshaft in to any SBC block. We began experimenting with that in about '55.
That was a very common engine back in 69-70 . I had a 70 Impala , with 350 300hp engine .They were everywhere . But most of those 350's in trucks had the 4 bolt main caps ..Cheapest engine in the world to buy parts for .Spend a few bucks and you can easy get 400+ hp out of it , but that's pushing it ,with cast crank 2 bolt main .
i have a lot of sbc just sitting 3 327 and 8 350 all run but i pulled them to put in a 450 hp 454 i get them for free with low miles with the 02xx 400r turbo good to 800 hp stock last year i got 4 set ups from 6,000 to 58,000 miles on them now i have another setup to pull for free plus i get rigs all the time cheap if not free i have a bunch of square body trucks all are in good shape rust free right now i been building a 68 pu next is a 79 z28 rs t top have 2 hard top z28's got all for free with a 67 rs ss 427 yenko and a 68 ss 396 camaros and a 79 short box cheyenne with under 35,000 miles on it just needed a fuel pump carb cleaned from sitting all the camaros need restored
When I messed with them , I would go to pad on front first. Unless it was ground off and restamped at a rebuilder, it would supply everything needed. But there was many that had all sorts of parts changed thru the years. Didn’t know many was still around not worn out completely.
All early truck 350 got 4 bolt mains. The L48 350 rated at both 295 and 300hp should have 4 bolt mains. By 69 it's the base 4bbl V8 in most makes. Maybe if it's from a full size.
It’s a two bolt 350 with smoked mains. Those 186 castings are worth quite a bit of money if the rocker studs have not been pinned. They’re not prone to crack. The heads are worth machining for screw in studs. No guide plates are needed with those castings.
I put a '68 327 with 202 camel back heads (No Bolt Holes)for my '69 Factory Air Camaro. Found out REAL QUICKLY that I had a little teensy technical difficulty hookin' up the AC compressor & Alternator. Scounged the salvage yard for hangers, Two sets of Chrome water pump bolts for extra length & header bolts. Did look like stock after I was done. Still a Nightmare though. LOL Oh... HEI dizzy required apiece of rubber shower matt between it & the firewall to keep that Bigger cap from shorting out every rev... Unbelievable
2 bolt main, cast crank 350, did you check to see if it's already been bored ? Perfect block to machine for 4 bolt spade main caps and buy a 4140 tool steel crank & forged rods to build a BEAST ! Them 461 heads do not have hardened seats for unleaded gas.
Yeah, u got that engine for free mate. $500, u got a great buy. There arent many small blocks around these days that have date codes that close. I've got those same heads on my sbc. Too cool. 👍
Have always loved that body style. I would build one up like a mjd 70's asphalt circle track car. Lowered, wide tires, manual trans, sheet metal or plexiglass rear spoiler, lower nose chin and splitter, louvers in hood.
Plus, you can determine the factory shift time for the time of day the block and heads were made with the "clock" stamping. 12 hour clock could be 0100 or 1300 hours. This is if I'm not mistaken.
Very good engine I always thought the 1969 300hp 350 came with a steel crank and a four bolt main block and double hump (194 intake valve size) heads which this engine has 👍 !
My 69 Camaro SS had the L48 350 300hp. It had four bolt mains, known as the Camaro engine from 1967. I wonder if this is the 255hp 350 engine with two bolt mains. My friend had a 69 Camaro with this engine and compared to my Camaro was blown into the weeds on any race at any speed. The good ole days…. His car burned regular fuel and my car needed high test gas to run right.
@@johnpena9165 I also had black jack long tube headers and open Morso air cleaner…. Estimated another 30 hp on top of base 300 horsepower. My car also had a 4spd and 3:36 rear axle single track…. It would burn rubber in all four gears. My friends Camaro had no headers or dual exhaust, but did have a turbo 350 automatic transmission. As I said before when it came to performance and racing side by side, I always easily pulled away from his car at any speed. Fun times…. the howl of a screaming 350 was music to my ears.
Nice. Just sold my factory orange (carousel red) 78 nova rally. I was the 2nd owner of. Only thing it started out a 305 with auto. I put the 350 in it but kept the 305.
going out on limb her but every set of 186s I've pulled from a 350 were on a 4 bolt main block I would say these heads are not original to this block and if it has pink rods that would be unusual as well never seen pink rods on a 2 bolt cast crank 350
What a score! Those heads are worth a good buck, even though they will need work, they are very desirable castings! I was going to mention the dates codes, but I see you already know that, sometimes it's best for me to watch the whole video before opening my mouth. 😀
The partial VIN on the pad will tell you what model that block came from, Impala, Chevelle, Nova, Camaro, from the group of number assigned to each. As long as all of the stamped number and casting numbers are legible, it can be done. I believe all SS cars came with 300hp 350's, at a minimum, and yours is likely from a Nova, although that engine was also in a fair number of Impalas. Someone with a 1969 Nova SS should be mighty proud to have that, as long as the numbers line up.
back in the early 70's I blew the 265 in my 56 chev .I went to a really shifty guy who was importing engines from the USA as rebuilders. I bought a semi complete engine from him for $350. Which was huge money back then. I stripped it down and discovered two things, 1/ it had very few oil changes and 2/ it was 327 370HP engine....ye haaa! lol!.
the 88 chevy I learned to drive in had the same press in stud failure, big believer in screw in studs ever since. I think it was only 80 bucks to have em tapped for it at the machine shop but that was 16 17 years ago
my guess to test my sbc knowledge, you can confirm since by now surely you have stripped block down n checked for cracks in weak casting areas typically on these blocks. so here you go 1970 model large journal crank, pre 69 cranks had small journal cranks w/two bolt mains only used in 327 & 283 motors,350 had longer stroke with 3 acc. mounting holes in head for AC bracket on drivers side, pre69 only had one acc mounting hole in head as AC was mounted on pass. side. heads are 67cc chambers n they were prone to losing rocker studs at high rpm and dbl springs w/1.98 I valves giving 9:1 compression w/ flattop pistons, now 2.02's were only used in HP engines with alum.factory intake, manual trans and four bolt main caps. HEI didn't come out until 1974 .guessing your motor outta '70 camaro , '70 chevelle 2dr or 4dr, '70 el camino, '70 nova, or '70 impala 2dr or 4dr. since its not four bolt main, not SS model factory 200-265hp....so how close am I? have you continued search? mine is '69 327 dbl hump heads small journal crank, came outta my '69 4dr. impala 350tran, now its in my '70 SS el camino BW T-50
Picked up an 82 C10 short bed that someone converted from the factory 4.1 to a small block V8. I'm 95% sure it's a 87 year model 305 due to the GM50GL or LG cast into the back of the block behind the driver side head, plus the stamped in code on the pad at the front of the block and the center bolt valve covers. Aside from the GM50 there's nothing in that spot of the block that I can look up.
you should pop a main cap and a rod cap and see if the bearings are worn or not get the cap farthest from the oil pump that way you get a better idea of what shape it's in then a cap right beside the pump anyway you got a good score there that be a good engine to rebuild and have around
I bought a 1967 Chevelle Malibu new in March 1967 it had a 327 275 HP 3 speed on the column it had the double hump heads, wish I still had that car, I actually raced it a couple times at Green Valley drag strip in Gadsden Al in 68 and 69
Man your luck is unbelievable, freshen it up,put a good gear in it an your going to have a good sleeper,of course you already know that,cool find,never would have thought someone would have put that engine in that car the way it looks,ask who you bought it from if they know why the engine was put in it.
That's a 1969 medium rise. It's a better intake than a 1970+ low rise. It will make better power everywhere below 3200 rpm than a Edelbrock Performer. I used the same intake on the '72 400 SB in my '74 C10 and it worked exceedingly well in that application with a 270/280 224/230 108 Comp Custom Grind. (Long before the XE Series).
Check vin stamp if u can find it. Sometimes it will be stamped with plant letter like N for Norwood Camaro. Gotta take all numbers into account but 186 heads and intake with a 350 is a good start for street car.
Liked your video there is 1 thing if you rebuild that engine when it comes to the heads please take the time to replace those Pressed in studs because of the age of the heads and also being around small block chevy they seam to have the habit of pulling out or breaking off. I saw guy he took the rockers off and stacked a bunch of flat washers and use the nut from the rockers to help pull the studs out. After that I'm not totally sure sure if you have to drill the holes out bigger or if you can just use a tap. If you do this just take your time. Or just pull the studs out and maybe the machine shop might discount the job just because you pulled them. You might just ask the machine shop before you do it. But you would think it would save a little money 💰 I hope my suggestions will be of good use and I wish you best of luck
"Looks like a brand new Fram filter...I'll throw that right in the trash." But sets the nest aside. LOL. I guess we know how bad Fram filters are, haha.
Ray, I bought a 350cu out of an 1969' Nova SS in 1969 that had on the Air Filter a sticker that read 350 - 300 HP. So that's what I thought I was buying. Came with a 4 bbl Rochester carb. Gave $350.00 for it. Put it in a 1963' Impala SS, 4-speed. Engine only had 2,400 miles on it when I bought it. But once I got it running it became very apparent very early on that something wasn't right. There wasn't a 396' Chevelle in my area that I couldn't outrun! So about a year later I'd decided to beef the engine up just a tad-bit more than it was, and that's when I found out that what I had was a 350 cu - 350hp engine! As soon as I saw the 4-Bolt Mains I knew that it wasn't just some regular 350cu - 300hp engine. And after running the codes on my block, heads, etc., it was then that I knew I had a 350cu-350hp engine that came out of that 1969' Nova SS. Date stamps all indicated that this was an 1968', early production 350 engine, first year that the 350 came out and was installed into the 1969' year model Chevy's. And the 1969' Nova was a very early release as well, so it all fit perfectly. That was one of the absolute BEST running 350 engines I ever had! By the time I got through building it, there was nothing in my area that could touch it. The ONLY vehicle that ever out ran me was a 1970 Highway Patrol car while on the Highway (Interstate 40 in NC), but this was before I beefed-up the engine. From 70 mph running side-by-side we hit it. He squalled his tires when it kicked into passing gear, and that was the end of that, lol. I had a 4-speed Muncie with a 373 rear-end gear. So I couldn't have down shifted into 3rd gear, because I would've probably blown the engine up. So I just stomped it to the floor. Not the best speed for me to start a race off at. And I didn't ever make that mistake again, lol. But those old Highway Patrol cars were fast as all get-out back then! And there weren't very many (if any) vehicles that could out run one of them on the highway. I later clocked my old 63' Impala SS at 145 mph, after adding some goodies to it. I never did find out just how fast it 'would' go, but I know it had more to give. As I was chicken to run it any faster than what I did that one time just to see how fast it would go. Sorry for the Book. :-)
69 was the first of the 350... Those had Nodular Crank and x or o rods a bit better than cast....look at the flange on the Crank should have a notch...and there's no casting slag on the boss of the journal... Good little street engine.... Good Cam springs push rods lifters.......030 flat top Piston...010- .010 Crank and Rod's....355....
I wouldn't say that you can rebuild it for $500. You haven't even removed the heads yet. I would want to bore it with a head plate to have straight cylinders. And the heads will definitely need to be rebuilt with either the studs pinned, or screw in studs. That going to cost considerably more than 500 bucks. An engine that good should be built right. I'd even want to machine the block for 4 bolt mains as well. Good information though! 😊
I found your video by accident, but you might know something I am obsessed with. It might give you ideas for your next video. I have -291 SBC cylinder heads with (currently) 2.02 intake valves. These heads came in 2 Types with different valve sizes. Lots of machine shops would buy junkyard Type I heads, change the valves, and sell them as Type II in the aftermarket. Later, stock racers preferred the Type I's because there was more "meat" between the valves to work with. I thought you could use the marks on the bottom of the heads to know whether you had an original Type I or Type II. I can send photos if you want to pursue this idea.
That is a rare engine you have. In 1970, all 350 LT-1 motors> Corvettes, Z28 changed over to screw in type studs. That potential problem begin in the 1950’s when GM made their 1st 265 V-8 CID. That same block and head design grew into their 283 CID, 302 CID, 307 CID, 327 CID, 350 CID and 400 CID. Torque and horsepower kept increasing, but those pressed in studs couldn’t handle that extra power. Before 1969, the only known fix was to drill and place a pin through each stud and engine head
@@BuzzLOLOL You’re right the 302 utilizes a stroke 283 CID steel forged crankshaft. One had totally forgotten about their 305’ CID. GM is a great company and manufactured many of the most reliable and strongest V-8 motors of all time. Their 383 CID is one of their highest performing motors. However, that idea came from some genius small time ¼ mile drag racer/Chevy fan, not sure of his name. He was the 1st known person to remove a crankshaft from a 400 CID motor and placed it in a slightly bored out 350 CID block making it a 383 CID. Once it was proven reliable for racing, GM- (God bless them) allow the general public to give them credit. One truly believes, Chevy’s small blocks are the best and most versatile. Great chatting with you. Hope you find a DZ block.
That block has been hot tanked. There is no paint on the sides. Looks like someone painted the front with a brush. It was probably rebuilt. 030 over or more. Probably spun a bearing and pulled the studs. Maybe not......nice score
i got a 77 K10 pickup..... and was told it had a 305 in it when i test drove it.... it KNEW it was no damn 305 . looked at the balancer.... and it had the "cut" for a 400SBC looked at the block code (suffex)..... 400 SBC . . when i blew the heads and had to replace them...... the steam holes also confirmed 400 block . . . turns out.... its the original motor to the pickup should be a 400 - TH400 - NP203 full time..... with "heavy half" springs and axles (its got an extra leaf front and rear.... and a 12 bolt rear) but its a 400 - TH350 with only 1st and 3rd.... and np203 . . im going to swap in a SM465 and NP205 from a parts 77 K10 i have keeping the LOW mile 400..... as it may be a gas hog..... but it just fires right up on all 8 after about 1.5 turns.....even in -50F . . crank crank crank BA-----ROOM!!!!! idle idle idle idle idle i just love how DILED in i got that carb, timing, and advance
👍 sweet find on that motor I have a set of those heads When I got them I just took them right to the machine shop because of a few issues but mainly because they don't come with harder seats for unleaded gas And I figured may as well put bigger valves in
@@brucearterbury1856 they came with both Those heads came on a 1969 z28 witch would have a 2.02 And a 1.60 The heads have had a 1.94 and 1.50 but not anymore
The date codes on blocks heads and intakes are when it was forged. They have to cure for a year before it is machined. If it has a 69 code then it came out in a 1970 vehicle.
I'm having an easier time getting old SBC components. Everybody wants an LS in their rod. Practically giving away the old stuff. And I'm real happy to take it off their hands.
And you are exactly right same thing with big block stuff…
Only problem is buying readily available parts if you're traveling.
Most everything is special order. Could wait days or weeks for parts. One reason why drag and drive or power tour events everybody prefers the LS.
Same here
Every wants LS. My Silverado has the DI 5.3 and it's a beast. Ls is very good stuff but my heart is will old school. The after market is turning away from GEN 1 stuff rapidly.
Have yet to own an LS powered rig. Live in the southwest so older trucks can be kept indefinitely. Not a fan of all the sensors and plastic atop Chevy engines after ‘95.
Great find. I had a 350 that the studs were pulling out like that. I pulled then all replaced with screw in & worked like a champ.
That's a must and it's a cheap upgrade.
As a self titled chevy parts hoarder....I say you did an excellent job of tracking down the heritage of this 350.
If the block, heads, crank are usable, you have a good haul. I have done this casting/code dive many times, and I find it fun when you can still locate some old school gems.
I had a set of those "186" heads on my 74' 350 I built for my 68' Nova, traded a 71' Nova for them from a machine shop, they did a valve job and PINNED the rocker studs because they like to pull out of the heads. They worked well in stock form. In this day and age, I think the casting date is what will bring the value for those heads, performance wise you would be way better off with late 90's Vortec heads,.
...but then you can't use the intakes that came with the engine, because the intake on a Vortec head bolts in differently, like a Ford.
What makes the "good" factory heads, like the 461/462's and the 186's valuable is that they're a slightly thicker casting compared to some others.
This means you can port them out more and you have more material to shave off the bottom of the head.
High lift cams will pull the studs out because the gap on the spring at full lift are under .030" this causes them to actually = 0 under full throttle due to the vibration. Turn engine over until full lift is achieved and check gap with feeler gauge if under .030 get some new springs that are for higher lift. If lift is over .450 stock springs will not work and will eventually destroy the head by breakin off the the stud boss.
They are Good with Flat Top Pistons ..I feel the Large Chambers Flow more Air at During Intake ..I did a Flat top 350 with Worked over Set of These Heads( Bowl Work Port Match Presion Seats) Stainless Valves ( Back Cut ) Mild Cam .Intake 650 holley ,Headers in a 65 C-10 Muncie 4 ..Surprised many People.
@@donaldalbershardt6854, I like the small block 350 , don't get me wrong here , I have multiple 350 engines in 2 bolt and 4 bolt mains .
But the 283,302 ,307, and 327 will out perform a 350 , but you would say that the 350 has more cubic inches and that is correct .
But these shorter stroke engines will scream to the moon ,
I got a small block 327 that can scream at 11,000rpm before the valves start to float and makes around 600hp .
It can pull both front tires off the ground in 1st and 2nd gear and this engine is in a 66 Chevelle Super Sport with a M-21 Muncie 4 speed and 12 bolt posi ,
Talk about a Blast to drive !
@@jimthomas1989 I know all About 283/ 292.. The best with low Gears
Additionally, up until the plug-size changes ('68-'69) all SBC'also had forged steel cranks which you can verify by the wider parting line and cast iron having a more pronounced, thinner parting line. (cast cranks make the best boat anchors...)
Somewhere a stock eliminator racer is drooling over this engine. 😄👍🏻
Great video. Just a couple of tips from an old General Motors mechanic. First, I knew it wasn't a 327 without you ever reading the numbers. 1) 327's did not use a pcv valve, (nor did 265's,283's, 302's,or 307's)they had closed/sealed valve covers. They used an internal ventilator can mounted under the intake manifold that then fed to a tube on the back of the block. They didn't start with the pcv valves until they started making 350's.Also 327's never came with 4 bolt mains. Not even the 327/375 hp engine. So even though the 375 hp/327 was the highest horsepower rated SBC. It is usually less desirable than the lesser 370hp LT1 engine (Corvette only) only because the LT1 engine was a 4 bolt main block. I was lucky enough to own a 1970 Corvette 350/370hp LT1, And a 1957 Chevy with a 1965 327/375hp Corvette engine. And trust me, both would smoke the tires for a country mile. Also Chevrolet used the 2 letter suffix code until 1969, in 1970 they went to a 3 letter suffix code ie. CTX. Hope this helps. Thanks for the video
PCV valve statement not true on the 307's, 327's and 302's. 1968 was the first year for a pcv valve in the valve covers of all small blocks.
Although 370 HP 350" was listed in early 1970 Corvette literature, none was installed, all got 360 HP engine like a Camaro...
Did a 1967, 350, have the 327,s SMALL JOURNAL crank mains? Also could a Small Journal 350, crank be used in a 327, making that a 350? Is there a clearance problem?
@@davidcoleman9304 - Just about anything can be put in anything if want to work at it hard enough... like a stroker crank to turn a 302, 327, or 350 into a 400"...
@@davidcoleman9304 No all 350's are medium journal, only used in the SS350 Camaro in '67. There were all 4 bolt mains too.
I’m pretty sure the “O” & “X” casting connecting rods were both used in the performance engines and were known as the “Pink” rods. So the best old school factory rod.
first thing i saw the 'O'!
SB Rods not cast. They were forged. Rods that were used for making pink rods could have been used for std rods too. Don’t make assumptions. Often pink rods color would be present on used rods. Sometime not. Another case of “don’t make assumptions.” In old days fakers would paint rods pink and sell as real.
Not sure on 0 rods but x rods are very tough.
@@sliderule1702 I’m not assuming anything sir, I was trying to remember information from 30+ years ago. Look it up I’ll bet you $100 cash money right now the “X” casting and the “O” castings we’re both used in the performance engines with the designation “Pink”. Are you ready to put your money up? 🤷♂️
The only difference between a pink rod or a none pink rod was the pink rod was mag fluxed 3 times that's the only difference ,GM says the powered metel rod is stronger dirt track guys push this rod to 7200 rpm and it survives
Video was a lot of fun. I hoard bolts now and strip them off before I scrap old parts. Bolts are now dollars each. That was a great find!
Yeah me too. And restorers want original bolts even on lawn tractors.....
You can also check the flange on the back of the crankshaft, there is a chart that shows the different shape of the sbc flanges for each engine size.
That chart is not always accurate !!!!
Great find on that engine. Especially if someone wants to build an older, nostalgic older Chevy vehicle. ✌️😎
Definitely a great engine to rebuild. Great it was included in the Nova buy.
In my opinion, for your average 300hp street runner a factory dual plane intake is hard to beat. Until some head work gets you into the higher RPMs the single planes don't show much advantage.
Cool find out about the engine, still together after all those years. Keep us updated on what you are going to do with it.
If it has flat top pistons it is a 300 hp 350, most of them had 041 heads, but I have seen these heads on more than a few. LT1 or 302 heads would have screw in studs and guide plates.
Dang man, you got a good deal on that engine, how rare. As you said, that it is so unusual to find one these days original. Great break down of all the numbers as well, don't think anyone else has done that Indepth of an overview before.
Your so lucky to run into one fine engine, Damm miss them old engines mine were the 283'-327 pre-sixty eight had the oil filter canister type filtering
Nice find. I have one of the 1st 327's produced. Casting numbers show late 1961, so an early 62 model year car
Very interesting how you can decode so much via the various casting numbers.
All a person needs is a book which is available at any auto parts store.
How to Restore your Small Block Chevy. All of the numbers are listed in there
There are some old publications out there, that help tremendously.....but Google has made it a lot easier.
There's nothing like a small block Chevy parts are cheap and easy to work on. They've been putting food on my table now for 30 years.
My first car was a 1977 Buick version of the 1977 Nova. 305 2 barrel but for a first car in 1987 it was great! And I literally purchased it from a nun!
Good catch!
My old man doesn't throw away anything as a hot rodder from birth. He has about three sets of these heads...
It has a flat cam shaft and they were trying to get it from back girding threw the carb . So they kept tightening the rocker arms and pulled some studs.
Very nice that it wasn't pieced together from different engines. I've never been able to decode the numbers and letters on the front pad but I'll keep working on that.
Good day hot rod hoarder on my 327 1967 I have the same heads and the same problem with the studs what I did drilled out on the side of the head through the studs and put roll pins in them never had a problem with it again (great find) 🏁🏁🏁
It gets costly with the screw-ins my experience if you don't do it right you'll hit the water jacket.. edit--- (they will leak) however repairable
It's so awesome that the engine has stayed together all these years. Can't wait to see what you drop it into.
That's too bad the block was not a 4 bolt but it don't really matter the 2 bolts are strong too anyway the camel hump heads were the heads to get back in the day but since the vortec heads were made the camel hump heads were not so sought after because the vortec had bigger ports then the double hump
Plus hardened exhaust seats
Another thing if u gettin serious enough to need 4 bolt main its easier to machine a 2 bolt block for splayed 4 bolt mains
2 bolt blocks with good aftermarket studs will handle everything you can toss at them!! You'll break the block before you hurt the mains!
2 problems with the Vortec heads, they are way more prone to cracking and will need a different intake manifold, however they do flow better and are easier to find a replacement if you need one.
The 4 bolt main 350 blocks came out in 1970.
Very nice! It may have been in a Nova...or maybe an Impala. Can't wait to see it running again 👍 Thanks for sharing!
I pulled one identical to this out of a 69 impala. It's stuck and wont turn over, but it's complete with A/C, P/S, and all, with the transmission. It has 300hp turbo fire 350 right on the air cleaner. What will I do with it? I don't know... Hoard it? Yes! hoard it! It might be a good builder some day!
Awesome find. Very desirable 350. I just built a .060 350 for a friend of mine for his truck for a 1978 454 out of a winnebago with 70,000 miles 👍🏻
If you're going to use those heads as they are you need to use lead fuel additive or have hardened valve seats
Have a set of OEM screw in rocker studs installed. 1970 LT1 heads had screw in studs.
@@davidcoleman9304 Even the LT1 heads need lead fuel additive or have hardened valve seats put it
I was taught the same way, but I've been doing fine without them. I do add MMO to the fuel.
Pardon me, I’m looking at the comments for 2.02 intake valves or 1.96? Do you happen to know?
Before you tell us your results, I'm gonna hang my 50+ yr SBC rep out & say it's a 350... the front & rear intake rubber center seals are the give away. They didn't have the nipple holes in the block til 69.
Also, the harmonic in the front was new in 69.
You taught this 68 year old dog some new knowledge today. Thanks
With the HN number and the camel hump heads I’d bet this was the 69 hi performance versiom of 350. The 295 horsepower version in 68 came with 194 heads not the 202 camel humps.
I use that edelbrock intake with 1” open spacer on my 68 350 and it’s a huge improvement over original. Plus weight of of course.
This is an ultra-rare, big journal, cast crank 2-bolt 350. One of 5.5 million made. DZ-302's would have had screw in rocker studs and 2.02 / 1.60 valves. These will have 1.94 / 1.50 valves These engines ran well in 69-72 Chevy/GMC pickups.
Now, out of all the engines I have had just like this one, all had 4 bolt mains. This one doesn't.
@@markbarnett1962 I must've seen 200-300 of these casting number blocks in the last 50 years and they don't mean a thing as far as main caps go.
@@merylpelosi8485 I never went by the casting numbers. I went by the stamped letters in front of the right bank head. All the ones I had were stamped CNR, 69 to 70 350's.
By looking at the front of the engine. I would think it was taken apart. Just the front of the engine is painted. You may be right about an upgraded camshaft.
All ten Chivy small block denomiations have their own distinct sounds due to port configuration and the firing order being 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Because garbage, boat-anchor, belly-button LS's have both a different firing order and port configuration, they do not even sound remotely similar to an SBC. This is my biggest reason for my disinterest in them. Hotter? Faster? Better? Dont care. I cut my teeth tuning a 1955 265 by ear as a youngster at my Dads behest. They didnt even have an oil filter, that 1st year of production. (maybe why they are so unobtanium!!). So once I realized that 28° of dwell yielded the hottest purple-white spark to be had out of a Delco coil it was all down hill from there. With care you can fit any SBC crankshaft in to any SBC block. We began experimenting with that in about '55.
The Snova deal gets better and better.
Thanks for sharing.
That was a very common engine back in 69-70 . I had a 70 Impala , with 350 300hp engine .They were everywhere . But most of those 350's in trucks had the 4 bolt main caps ..Cheapest engine in the world to buy parts for .Spend a few bucks and you can easy get 400+ hp out of it , but that's pushing it ,with cast crank 2 bolt main .
i have a lot of sbc just sitting 3 327 and 8 350 all run but i pulled them to put in a 450 hp 454 i get them for free with low miles with the 02xx 400r turbo good to 800 hp stock last year i got 4 set ups from 6,000 to 58,000 miles on them now i have another setup to pull for free plus i get rigs all the time cheap if not free i have a bunch of square body trucks all are in good shape rust free right now i been building a 68 pu next is a 79 z28 rs t top have 2 hard top z28's got all for free with a 67 rs ss 427 yenko and a 68 ss 396 camaros and a 79 short box cheyenne with under 35,000 miles on it just needed a fuel pump carb cleaned from sitting all the camaros need restored
When I messed with them , I would go to pad on front first.
Unless it was ground off and restamped at a rebuilder, it would supply everything needed.
But there was many that had all sorts of parts changed thru the years.
Didn’t know many was still around not worn out completely.
I liked to see that grand national run
its out of a truck. you see that the block is cast all the way up for the distributor, Factory did that for HD truck applications not HP applications.
Don't think trucks got this 300 HP 10:1 engine...
All early truck 350 got 4 bolt mains. The L48 350 rated at both 295 and 300hp should have 4 bolt mains. By 69 it's the base 4bbl V8 in most makes. Maybe if it's from a full size.
@@Dayandcounting - I think pickups usually got 2 bolt mains and heavier duty trucks got 4 bolt mains... Trucks got lower HP regular gas engines...
It’s a two bolt 350 with smoked mains. Those 186 castings are worth quite a bit of money if the rocker studs have not been pinned.
They’re not prone to crack. The heads are worth machining for screw in studs. No guide plates are needed with those castings.
I put a '68 327 with 202 camel back heads (No Bolt Holes)for my '69 Factory Air Camaro. Found out REAL QUICKLY that I had a little teensy technical difficulty hookin' up the AC compressor & Alternator. Scounged the salvage yard for hangers, Two sets of Chrome water pump bolts for extra length & header bolts. Did look like stock after I was done. Still a Nightmare though. LOL
Oh... HEI dizzy required apiece of rubber shower matt between it & the firewall to keep that Bigger cap from shorting out every rev... Unbelievable
Great piece to have, lots of valuable extras adds up $$$
2 bolt main, cast crank 350, did you check to see if it's already been bored ? Perfect block to machine for 4 bolt spade main caps and buy a 4140 tool steel crank & forged rods to build a BEAST ! Them 461 heads do not have hardened seats for unleaded gas.
AWESOME find especially in these days, ... Keep it and Build, build build!
Yeah, u got that engine for free mate. $500, u got a great buy. There arent many small blocks around these days that have date codes that close. I've got those same heads on my sbc. Too cool. 👍
Have always loved that body style.
I would build one up like a mjd 70's asphalt circle track car.
Lowered, wide tires, manual trans, sheet metal or plexiglass rear spoiler, lower nose chin and splitter, louvers in hood.
That's a sweet old small block.
Plus, you can determine the factory shift time for the time of day the block and heads were made with the "clock" stamping. 12 hour clock could be 0100 or 1300 hours. This is if I'm not mistaken.
You are exactly correct!
Very good engine I always thought the 1969 300hp 350 came with a steel crank and a four bolt main block and double hump (194 intake valve size) heads which this engine has 👍 !
This engine has 2 bolt mains... 300 HP would make that Nova fly...
@@BuzzLOLOL most 1969 and newer 350 truck engines came with 4 bolt main blocks also .
My 69 Camaro SS had the L48 350 300hp. It had four bolt mains, known as the Camaro engine from 1967. I wonder if this is the 255hp 350 engine with two bolt mains. My friend had a 69 Camaro with this engine and compared to my Camaro was blown into the weeds on any race at any speed. The good ole days…. His car burned regular fuel and my car needed high test gas to run right.
Those L48 350s were great engines and could easily be modified to get 400 or more horsepower out of !
@@johnpena9165 I also had black jack long tube headers and open Morso air cleaner…. Estimated another 30 hp on top of base 300 horsepower. My car also had a 4spd and 3:36 rear axle single track…. It would burn rubber in all four gears. My friends Camaro had no headers or dual exhaust, but did have a turbo 350 automatic transmission. As I said before when it came to performance and racing side by side, I always easily pulled away from his car at any speed. Fun times…. the howl of a screaming 350 was music to my ears.
Nice. Just sold my factory orange (carousel red) 78 nova rally. I was the 2nd owner of. Only thing it started out a 305 with auto. I put the 350 in it but kept the 305.
going out on limb her but every set of 186s I've pulled from a 350 were on a 4 bolt main block I would say these heads are not original to this block and if it has pink rods that would be unusual as well never seen pink rods on a 2 bolt cast crank 350
What a score! Those heads are worth a good buck, even though they will need work, they are very desirable castings! I was going to mention the dates codes, but I see you already know that, sometimes it's best for me to watch the whole video before opening my mouth. 😀
Me too.......🤠
I had a 1957 Chevy many years back with powerpack heads stock from the factory on the 283 engine.
The partial VIN on the pad will tell you what model that block came from, Impala, Chevelle, Nova, Camaro, from the group of number assigned to each. As long as all of the stamped number and casting numbers are legible, it can be done. I believe all SS cars came with 300hp 350's, at a minimum, and yours is likely from a Nova, although that engine was also in a fair number of Impalas. Someone with a 1969 Nova SS should be mighty proud to have that, as long as the numbers line up.
You got to do a low budget build on this 350 and drop into this Nova!
Even thou frame has a bad rep I'd still keep it.$500.00 for all that is one of them deals from way back in the day.
back in the early 70's I blew the 265 in my 56 chev .I went to a really shifty guy who was importing engines from the USA as rebuilders. I bought a semi complete engine from him for $350. Which was huge money back then. I stripped it down and discovered two things, 1/ it had very few oil changes and 2/ it was 327 370HP engine....ye haaa! lol!.
That is a real good engine. All date code matching 300 hp 350. From 69'. I would definitely build that one stock with a good cam.
the 88 chevy I learned to drive in had the same press in stud failure, big believer in screw in studs ever since. I think it was only 80 bucks to have em tapped for it at the machine shop but that was 16 17 years ago
Back in the 60's did it right in the car, installed the pushrod guide plates also.
my guess to test my sbc knowledge, you can confirm since by now surely you have stripped block down n checked for cracks in weak casting areas typically on these blocks. so here you go 1970 model large journal crank, pre 69 cranks had small journal cranks w/two bolt mains only used in 327 & 283 motors,350 had longer stroke with 3 acc. mounting holes in head for AC bracket on drivers side, pre69 only had one acc mounting hole in head as AC was mounted on pass. side. heads are 67cc chambers n they were prone to losing rocker studs at high rpm and dbl springs w/1.98 I valves giving 9:1 compression w/ flattop pistons, now 2.02's were only used in HP engines with alum.factory intake, manual trans and four bolt main caps. HEI didn't come out until 1974 .guessing your motor outta '70 camaro , '70 chevelle 2dr or 4dr, '70 el camino, '70 nova, or '70 impala 2dr or 4dr. since its not four bolt main, not SS model factory 200-265hp....so how close am I? have you continued search? mine is '69 327 dbl hump heads small journal crank, came outta my '69 4dr. impala 350tran, now its in my '70 SS el camino BW T-50
That's a good find right there. like you said there usually worked over and piesed together. Worth keeping in my book
Wow I'm more a mopar guy there easy just read the side of the block . Its C.I.is right there. Sounds like a good motor for a solid driver .
Picked up an 82 C10 short bed that someone converted from the factory 4.1 to a small block V8. I'm 95% sure it's a 87 year model 305 due to the GM50GL or LG cast into the back of the block behind the driver side head, plus the stamped in code on the pad at the front of the block and the center bolt valve covers. Aside from the GM50 there's nothing in that spot of the block that I can look up.
you should pop a main cap and a rod cap and see if the bearings are worn or not get the cap farthest from the oil pump that way you get a better idea of what shape it's in then a cap right beside the pump anyway you got a good score there that be a good engine to rebuild and have around
My old 327 had the double hump. 2.02 intake valves I believe it’s been many years
I once had aa 69 Impala with a 300HP 350 in it. I really miss that car. Nice buy!
You were close but 68 did not have accessory holes in the heads. 1969 up had them.
I bought a 1967 Chevelle Malibu new in March 1967 it had a 327 275 HP 3 speed on the column it had the double hump heads, wish I still had that car, I actually raced it a couple times at Green Valley drag strip in Gadsden Al in 68 and 69
Man your luck is unbelievable, freshen it up,put a good gear in it an your going to have a good sleeper,of course you already know that,cool find,never would have thought someone would have put that engine in that car the way it looks,ask who you bought it from if they know why the engine was put in it.
That's a 1969 medium rise. It's a better intake than a 1970+ low rise. It will make better power everywhere below 3200 rpm than a Edelbrock Performer. I used the same intake on the '72 400 SB in my '74 C10 and it worked exceedingly well in that application with a 270/280 224/230 108 Comp Custom Grind. (Long before the XE Series).
You are exactly correct on the factory vs performer rpm range. Under 3200 a well tuned factory intake is cheap, reliable and adequate for sure.
That fully enclosed distributor hole is a sign of high performance.
Check vin stamp if u can find it. Sometimes it will be stamped with plant letter like N for Norwood Camaro. Gotta take all numbers into account but 186 heads and intake with a 350 is a good start for street car.
You can get a Vortec 350 from the late '90s with better flowing heads and more reliable roller lifter valvetrain.
Liked your video there is 1 thing if you rebuild that engine when it comes to the heads please take the time to replace those Pressed in studs because of the age of the heads and also being around small block chevy they seam to have the habit of pulling out or breaking off. I saw guy he took the rockers off and stacked a bunch of flat washers and use the nut from the rockers to help pull the studs out. After that I'm not totally sure sure if you have to drill the holes out bigger or if you can just use a tap. If you do this just take your time. Or just pull the studs out and maybe the machine shop might discount the job just because you pulled them. You might just ask the machine shop before you do it. But you would think it would save a little money 💰 I hope my suggestions will be of good use and I wish you best of luck
"Looks like a brand new Fram filter...I'll throw that right in the trash." But sets the nest aside. LOL. I guess we know how bad Fram filters are, haha.
I would say you definitely got your money's worth. The 186 heads by themselves just about covers the $800.
I've been looking for that 10mm 😁
Owned a few Nova's, loved em.
scoring sbc stuff is a win. But I want to know more about the GN in the garage.
Great deal on that find but I had a 350 SS out of a ‘69 Camaro but it had the 4 bolt main vs your 2 bolt find.
What a great motor!👍👍
Ray, I bought a 350cu out of an 1969' Nova SS in 1969 that had on the Air Filter a sticker that read 350 - 300 HP. So that's what I thought I was buying. Came with a 4 bbl Rochester carb. Gave $350.00 for it. Put it in a 1963' Impala SS, 4-speed. Engine only had 2,400 miles on it when I bought it. But once I got it running it became very apparent very early on that something wasn't right. There wasn't a 396' Chevelle in my area that I couldn't outrun! So about a year later I'd decided to beef the engine up just a tad-bit more than it was, and that's when I found out that what I had was a 350 cu - 350hp engine! As soon as I saw the 4-Bolt Mains I knew that it wasn't just some regular 350cu - 300hp engine. And after running the codes on my block, heads, etc., it was then that I knew I had a 350cu-350hp engine that came out of that 1969' Nova SS. Date stamps all indicated that this was an 1968', early production 350 engine, first year that the 350 came out and was installed into the 1969' year model Chevy's. And the 1969' Nova was a very early release as well, so it all fit perfectly. That was one of the absolute BEST running 350 engines I ever had! By the time I got through building it, there was nothing in my area that could touch it. The ONLY vehicle that ever out ran me was a 1970 Highway Patrol car while on the Highway (Interstate 40 in NC), but this was before I beefed-up the engine. From 70 mph running side-by-side we hit it. He squalled his tires when it kicked into passing gear, and that was the end of that, lol. I had a 4-speed Muncie with a 373 rear-end gear. So I couldn't have down shifted into 3rd gear, because I would've probably blown the engine up. So I just stomped it to the floor. Not the best speed for me to start a race off at. And I didn't ever make that mistake again, lol. But those old Highway Patrol cars were fast as all get-out back then! And there weren't very many (if any) vehicles that could out run one of them on the highway. I later clocked my old 63' Impala SS at 145 mph, after adding some goodies to it. I never did find out just how fast it 'would' go, but I know it had more to give. As I was chicken to run it any faster than what I did that one time just to see how fast it would go. Sorry for the Book. :-)
69 was the first of the 350... Those had Nodular Crank and x or o rods a bit better than cast....look at the flange on the Crank should have a notch...and there's no casting slag on the boss of the journal... Good little street engine.... Good Cam springs push rods lifters.......030 flat top Piston...010- .010 Crank and Rod's....355....
I wouldn't say that you can rebuild it for $500. You haven't even removed the heads yet. I would want to bore it with a head plate to have straight cylinders. And the heads will definitely need to be rebuilt with either the studs pinned, or screw in studs. That going to cost considerably more than 500 bucks. An engine that good should be built right. I'd even want to machine the block for 4 bolt mains as well. Good information though! 😊
You absolutely scored if you only paid $500 on the deal.
I found your video by accident, but you might know something I am obsessed with. It might give you ideas for your next video. I have -291 SBC cylinder heads with (currently) 2.02 intake valves. These heads came in 2 Types with different valve sizes. Lots of machine shops would buy junkyard Type I heads, change the valves, and sell them as Type II in the aftermarket. Later, stock racers preferred the Type I's because there was more "meat" between the valves to work with. I thought you could use the marks on the bottom of the heads to know whether you had an original Type I or Type II. I can send photos if you want to pursue this idea.
i had a l78 and l79 chevy 327 from the mid 60s,little mother thumpers . bout 350 hp to 375 hp each ,stock!!
Yes sir we used to call those fuel heads they had bigger valves and put those on a 4-volt Maine
One mans junk is another mans treasure.
When u pass 440 lift the factory rocker will bottom out on the stud, either it pulls stud lose or smears the lobe
Nice presentation!
That is a rare engine you have. In 1970, all 350 LT-1 motors> Corvettes, Z28 changed over to screw in type studs. That potential problem begin in the 1950’s when GM made their 1st 265 V-8 CID. That same block and head design grew into their 283 CID, 302 CID, 307 CID, 327 CID, 350 CID and 400 CID. Torque and horsepower kept increasing, but those pressed in studs couldn’t handle that extra power. Before 1969, the only known fix was to drill and place a pin through each stud and engine head
Actually the 327 shrunk into the 302... LOL! There was also the 262 and 305... and GM still sells a 383...
@@BuzzLOLOL You’re right the 302 utilizes a stroke 283 CID steel forged crankshaft. One had totally forgotten about their 305’ CID. GM is a great company and manufactured many of the most reliable and strongest V-8 motors of all time. Their 383 CID is one of their highest performing motors. However, that idea came from some genius small time ¼ mile drag racer/Chevy fan, not sure of his name. He was the 1st known person to remove a crankshaft from a 400 CID motor and placed it in a slightly bored out 350 CID block making it a 383 CID. Once it was proven reliable for racing, GM- (God bless them) allow the general public to give them credit. One truly believes, Chevy’s small blocks are the best and most versatile. Great chatting with you. Hope you find a DZ block.
That block has been hot tanked. There is no paint on the sides. Looks like someone painted the front with a brush. It was probably rebuilt. 030 over or more. Probably spun a bearing and pulled the studs. Maybe not......nice score
i got a 77 K10 pickup..... and was told it had a 305 in it
when i test drove it.... it KNEW it was no damn 305
.
looked at the balancer.... and it had the "cut" for a 400SBC
looked at the block code (suffex)..... 400 SBC
.
.
when i blew the heads and had to replace them...... the steam holes also confirmed 400 block
.
.
.
turns out.... its the original motor to the pickup
should be a 400 - TH400 - NP203 full time..... with "heavy half" springs and axles (its got an extra leaf front and rear.... and a 12 bolt rear)
but its a 400 - TH350 with only 1st and 3rd.... and np203
.
.
im going to swap in a SM465 and NP205 from a parts 77 K10 i have
keeping the LOW mile 400..... as it may be a gas hog..... but it just fires right up on all 8 after about 1.5 turns.....even in -50F
.
.
crank crank crank BA-----ROOM!!!!! idle idle idle idle idle
i just love how DILED in i got that carb, timing, and advance
👍 sweet find on that motor
I have a set of those heads
When I got them I just took them right to the machine shop because of a few issues but mainly because they don't come with harder seats for unleaded gas
And I figured may as well put bigger valves in
Do you happen to know if this casting has 2.02 intakes or 1.94?
@@brucearterbury1856 they came with both
Those heads came on a 1969 z28 witch would have a 2.02
And a 1.60
The heads have had a 1.94 and 1.50 but not anymore
The date codes on blocks heads and intakes are when it was forged. They have to cure for a year before it is machined. If it has a 69 code then it came out in a 1970 vehicle.
Date codes are when blocks and heads were *cast*.
They had to cool for atleast a day. No parts were held onto for a year.
Cool all matching!! That’s great!
That date coded water pump is worth some good money!
Early long pump. Definitely worth saving.