Wait till you see these TOOLS!
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- čas přidán 14. 05. 2024
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1. Mitre Square - www.banggood.com/custlink/Kvm...
2. Digital Depth Gauge - www.banggood.com/custlink/KKD...
3. Dowel Jig - www.banggood.com/custlink/KvK...
4. Pocket Hole Jig - www.banggood.com/custlink/GGv...
5. T-Square - www.banggood.com/custlink/mmD...
6. Mitre Fence - www.banggood.com/custlink/DK3...
7. Mitre Gauge - www.banggood.com/custlink/KGG...
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Kreg uses those square Robertson screws too and if you can buy them from Finland I'm sure you are able to get them from Sweden too.
Thanks, for showing these. I want the square, but have ordered the mitre gauge for my xmas present from my wife :)
Great video showing the tools you got thanks for sharing. Keeps up the great job
Thanks 👍
Great stuff. Like that depth gauge.
Very illuminating and educational: Swedes have a sense of humor...
🤣
Sorry, I couldn't help myself. The three Swedes I have, they are some of my funniest/fun-loving people I know. Wait...maybe they are Swiss...
🤣
Seriously, very good information, but very pleasurable presentation. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi. excellent video. Thank you. A question about the miter fence you may be inclined to answer. Does it come with nuts and bolts to attach a (third party, e.g. Incra) Miter Gauge?
I had the incra miter Guage and it is just barely off. It sits a little proud of the table and doesn't work in my opinion because of that. I think that the incra miter Guage was good, but their fence was bad bad bad. I returned it for this from hongdui and am so glad I did
That digital Guage on off switch is just turns off the display, but rest will drain the battery. I recommend removing the battery from it if you aren't using it for few days.
The T-squire looks great, thank you for sharing it with us. However, I'll make some small note here. What has been done for the squareness to be proved, proves only the shoulder (ruler) is parallel. However, it has not proved the 90deg. To do so once the first line has been scribed the T-squire must be turned in reverse (upside-down) and another line to be scribed as well. The problem here is that because of the construction of the T-squire there will be no reference plane to be aligned against. So, the other methods that I see can be used are to be compared to some machine reference 90deg or by measuring the hypotenuse and use Pythagoras. By the yaw, looking at the Banggood webpage, it says no word of "reference". Only clarifies that you can adjust the squareness. So, if it was me, before I trust, I must prove it (for myself).
What a false issue this is for many people. Let them get it through their heads that the mission of a t-square is to draw parallel lines, not to be a reference square. It can be quickly and directly squared up to the precision of the best engineers square that they can afford, and thats all she wrote.
Hongdui makes amazing tools. The miter gauge and fence is on my list. I bought the hongdui router plane and it is amazing. Not cheap, with 4pc blade set was 289.00. They collaborated with Jonathan Katz Moses on this and I believe it is better than the Veritas router plane
Agreed! That router plane is on my list as well :)
I bought my Veritas one a few weeks before the Hongdui one was released, and though I try to never regret any decisions, I'm definitely kicking myself for not waiting just a bit longer. I have a number of Hongdui tools and they're all excellent.
Great video and great tools. I'm very interested in the Tsquare and miter gauge. Do you know how long is the T square? They listed in the website as Length: 25mm. That's a bit short, I would think.
Thanks a lot! The t-Square is 65cm
I have now used the xams mitre gauge with extension for a month and it is fabulous. So much better quality and to use than the Osborne mitre gauge it replaces. Thanks Swedish maker :)
I just found your channel and subscribed! yay! One tip I want to share as Woodworker that moons when putting on shoes (I"m barefoot 90% of the time too... lol), use a better push stick. That technique of pushing with those push sticks is not as safe as using many other methods. I have several depending on the materials and cut, but something sits on top of the material with a handle that puts your applied pressure both going forward and down would be ideal. IF you had something like that, that kickback in the beginning of this video probably would not have happened. Search youtube for different ones and give them a try. Micro jig makes one, those are nice but also a bit over kill and niche.
I have the hongdui miter and fence. It is 99% perfect and one of the best tools that i own.
The only issue, and its very minor, is that it is very obviously mainly made for metric. When setting it up for metric, it is supremely easy and adjustable.
For imperial though, to get it to where the extensible fence measurements still work, you have really only one distance from your blade to set it. I emailed them and they never got back to me.
It could be that im using it on a dewalt jobsite saw though.. ymmv
The pocket hole jig is MUCH better with the dust collector, and the collet on mine fits perfect
yep
I have the Massca one you showed and I love it.
For the height adjustment guide that you feel the legs are to flimsy- I would just buy a flat bar that will sit into the recess on both side of each leg. That will not only stiffen the legs, but it would be very cool looking to!.
Super and very direct solution!
My man…where’s your riving knife? 😬
I forgot to reattach it - its back on now :)
Great video! But, as a Scandinavian - keep that riving knife attached! 😁
What's that?
@@jason.b896behind the saw blade there is a thin piece of metal that is about the same height and thickness of the blade and moves up and down with it and side to side, basically it will stop, or try to help stop the wood rotating when you’re cutting and binding, then getting launched backwards toward you which is pretty much what happen to our friend in the video! It helps keep it straighter and safer.
@@TroyCroattoit keeps the kerf open and the wood from binding on the blade after the cut is made. Your wording confused even me and I know what it's for 😂
Thanks for the review
Great video and humor. Thanks for sharing. Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
Hi my 2nd viewing of this video and crikey the T square is still gorgeous I am still full of envy! I was attempting to explain to a female about beautiful tools she didn’t get it nor could she follow why I didn’t want to scratch them! Aren’t they weird; girls that is not tools……I do like girls btw !
Anyway gorgeous and thank you are two words!!
Will you get the other high end pocket hole thing to let us all see? Please do.
Kickback could have been painful, you were fortunate.
Have you watched your fellow regional guy do his BANGGOOD videos? Excellent!
Anyway must go and cruise the tool catalogues once more……what a life heh?!
Bob
England
My father had a saying "I can't afford to buy cheap stuff", but as best you can within your budget and remember "buy once and cry once" for good quality stuff. In our community we have a saying "Banggood is Bangbad".
Thank you for sharing this video, i REALLY like the T-Square.
The JessEm Mite-R-Excel II is $360 USD. So while I would consider the T-square, I would opt for one of the US or Canadian made miter gauges that’s in the same price point.
I had a mean kick back a few weeks ago. Man that was painful. I did a quick scan of my thumb and forefinger.
Every time I see someone using one of those style push sticks I think it’s a kickback waiting to happen. You didn’t have to risk injury just to prove me right
Toppenvideo! Kul att se lite fler verktyg från Kina. Som hobbyist har man ju inte alltid råd med originalen. Lycka till med kanalen!
Tack! :)
Those robinson screws (square head) normally work really well and are highly popular in the USA. You can buy them in NL/UK.but you need decent drivers. If the bit doesn't sllide right to tbe bottom of the slot (and you can hang the tool off it whsilt going for lunch) then it's not the right bit
what moral dilema, these are not bad clones, these are either general class tools or improved versions
The issue with 45s and setting the angle is that saw plates are not all parallel, or accessible across the teeth A better design for saw teeth is two electrodes that contact the plate at 45, and operate a light. then then teeth can be used seperately, and if the electrodes are moveable, they can be set to the plate once, and will give good results afterwards. Though I can't really be bothered with either.
That Laguna saw gives me tool envy...
And Hongduo tools are awesome.
your kick back: I‘m sure by analysing your kick back, you noticed already that your push stick has been to far way from the blade’s side, pushing as close to the blade will let the opposite part of the workpiece moving away from the blade, thus preventing lot’s of kick backs ( just try to move a piece of wood pushing on the left side on a flat surface to prove that it will move to the right side ;) )
A riving knife would have prevented that kickback all together.
Yes I did forget to put the riving knife back after using the table saw for recording the intro of the video. It sticks up so I simply removed it and then I also used the push stick on the right side like you said - all caused by trying to be quick (and stupid) rather than safe.
@@TheSwedishMaker Make a proper push stick and chuck that dangerous poor excuse of a push stick all the manufacturers bundle with every saw,
Genius and thank you is of course at least two words……….not the one (1) you promised!
I do both love and admire your work…….more and more please!
Also more tools from Hongdui (?) please
Bob
England
thanks Bob! Truly appreciate it!
"Do not complete that sentence" hahahahaha
That kickback was from that cheap chicken-foot push stick. It wasn't centered on the off-cut piece, which caused a torque to be applied, and thus rotated the finished cut into the spinning blade. Definitely be careful with those cheap sticks, they're more trouble than they're worth imo. Much better to use a push block that supports the top of the workpiece way more.
Any recommendations?
@@Lennart1995 yes, forget about the fency push sticks and put a riving knife into your table saw. Thats all you need.
@@Lennart1995 I use a shopmade stick that holds down about 18" of the work, The handle is also big enough that I can apply side force against the fence by twisting it clockwise.
Just need a riving knife.
That is one sexy of a T square, WoW! Red is my color and it is accurate to boot!
Accuracy is relative, is what I learned years ago. As long as all the cuts are the same, then everything is cool.
Love your sense of humor you bring to your presentations. Keep it going.
thanks a lot! Appreciate it!
Wait a second... No, not really. Accuracy is one thing, but you are talking about a different concept, called REPEATABILITY.
In order to have accuracy, you need to have repeatability first, but that alone is no guarantee of accuracy. Accuracy is the measure of how close are you to an exact value. For example: you could use a single tape measure for all your measurements, and that achieves repeatability. But it could be very well that your tape measure is off, then you still have poor accuracy!
@@alfredomarquez9777 and what happens when you have wood movement/ shrinkage after the project is finished, hence, accuracy is relative….
I believe it is the Norwegian craftsmen that built houses of worship and intentionally make a mistake in the building of the temple to show the Gods, humans are imperfect. The craftsmen didn’t want to bring the wrath of the Gods down on themselves for challenging the perfection of the Gods.
You have made my case by your example. If all of your measurements are off the same amount you will have accuracy in that the measurements are all the same relative to each other. It may not be your preconceived concept as to what you wanted to achieve. But just like in drafting a plan up. Either by hand or cad. Once you make the original drawing every copy will not measure the same due to external factors like paper shrinkage or optics variables. It is the written measurement that makes the drawings relative to each other. The use of a single standard of measurement like one tape measure helps to achieve close to perfection, repeatability helps but again accuracy is relative and a truism.
@@SilverFox-1212 Dear sir: There is a strict discipline called "Metrology"... I respectfully suggest you to review the agreed terminology that constitutes the base of many engineering specialties, where the basic, fundamental, and very well defined concepts are perfectly understood. Then, and only then, you will understand my comment, and avoid continuing talking and talking colorful anecdotes about gods and humans and so on... But in that way, you will avoid to say absurd things like: "repeatability helps"... that are incorrect, because repeatability is a prerequisite of accuracy! It does not matter if wood expands or contracts if your tape measure is way off... That is why it is an old and wise practice to try to use the same tape measure for your project...
Now, if for whatever reason you want to divide a large project among different builders, different shops, or different locations, then you need to pay attention to measurements, and to fully understand the basic concepts and their unvarying meaning, that is certainly not subject to personal tastes or interpretations! Best luck.
@@alfredomarquez9777 since 1791 the given date of the birth of metrology when the French started to standardize measures with the advent of the metric system in 1795 through present day, measurement of accuracy has been based on the premise that “accuracy is relative”.
This was taken from the definition of scientific metrology: As of May 2019 no physical objects define the base units.[17] The motivation in the change of the base units is to make the entire system derivable from physical constants, which required the removal of the prototype kilogram as it is the last artefact the unit definitions depend on.
Standardization is based on a starting point. Whether it is the Egyptian cubit, a kilogram or a metric based on the accuracy of your ability to compare measures. As the sciences advance so does the ability to get closer to the exact replication of the standard i.e. the original one.
Here again, my statement that accuracy is relative remains a constant.
When you make a “one off”, an original how important is metrology? Ergonomics or esthetics or likes and dislikes or a combination comes into play.
Here is where, “I love it” or “I hate it” comes into play. Something that can’t be measured.
In conclusion, all I was trying to say was, don’t get sidetracked and allow the details of accurate measurements to overshadow the enjoyment of creation in woodworking, there are too many variables to contend with. Even Einstein wasn’t perfect all the time.
Please use a riving knife in your table saw, it is the single best device to prevent kickback on a tablesaw ever invented. I really don't get why you are not using one, the only time a riving knife should not be used is never. Most saw can even adjust the height of the knife so it it inline with the blade height making it usefull for doing grooves as well. PLEASE use one, as it almost eliminates the risk of kickback when doing through cuts
"... you don't put your shoes on without moaning." 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
stuff from China I've found lately to be often terrible but now more than ever finding brands that make incredible stuff at great prices--tools, consumables, whatever. got some flat pack furniture that was less than half the price of ikea and way sturdier engineering
Lovely cut video m8! A bit yellow of that T-ruler!
Thanks! Yes that t-ruler rules :)
Did hou have to pay extra VAT for importing those items?
No I didnt
Man that HE MAN T square I’m still drooling. Great funny video but be careful with that table saw otherwise it will be the One Northern Maker Podcast !!
Oh yeah that was a scare for sure :)
Really enjoy your channel. This time though I don't think you did the pocket hole jig justice. I have that exact item and have found it to be very good. I think judging the tool based on the product (your drawer) is a bit unfair.
You are usually very precise and careful in your builds but this time - watching you put that drawer together - was like watching my granddaughter do something she reeeeeally didn't want to 🤣🤣
Having said that, maybe you were venting your legitimate frustrations at the depth stop ring being the wrong size and the quality of screws and driver bit? ;) Mine was the right size and I used torx head pocket screws ('cos I hate those square things)
My experience - the jig itself is top-notch, accurate and very good value for the money.
As for the T-square .... I want to have babies with it! :)
If the 45 degree gauge is made of stainless steel as you stated why did the digital (Angle Cube) gauge attach itself magnetically - must be new stainless steel magnets?
most forms of stainless steel attach to magnets I think.
@@TheSwedishMakerMartensitic stainless steels are magnetic due to a higher content of ferrite in the mix, these are typically 410, 420 and 440 grades
@@-PORK-CHOP-, it is the higher nickle content that renders some stainless varieties non magnetic, and is why they have a higher scrap value.
@@TheSwedishMaker only the cheaper varieties.
your push stick needs to be closer to the blade than the fence.. and just watch those plastic push sticks they can shatter if they touch a dull blade.. when it happened to me the push stick shot off to the left and clipped my fingernail, broke my fingernail.. i dont use that type of push stick anymore.
I’ve been woodworking for well over 45 years and I’ve got enough tools to cater for 3 men (because, at one point, that’s what we had).
Everyone has a choice about what to spend their money on but my concern is that new people, young people, who want to get into woodworking are put off by some of the videos which are showing quite high priced tools. A son of a friend is in that position and I do talk him through what he needs as opposed to what he might see on YT.
The real problem, as I see it, is to decide what degree of quality do I need and does that have to mean buying one of the premium brands. In terms of degree of quality, my view is that we are not building rocket ships and do not need aeronautical precision. Quite often consistency is more important than a precise measurement and, for joints such as M&T, you cut rough and refine by hand anyway. So, you do need quality rulers and squares to start with but additional tools can be added later if that’s what you want. Good chisels - which often has to mean not second hand but, equally, not Lie Nielsen or Blue Spruce. Same with planes. Good sharpening equipment is essential but you can start with Scary Sharp and only go to Waterstones down the line.
Woodworking is a low barrier entry hobby; not that many YT people show this. That square looks great - but do I need it? Will it make me a better woodworker? No and no. I might get it because I like working with beautiful tools but that is quite different from it being essential or even required.
As for buying from China. It irks me to have to buy from companies which must, by all accounts, be in bed with the dictators of that country, to whom human rights are a joke. But, if I were to avoid buying from a Chinese company or buying something made in China but sold by a western country, or buying something which is made in the West but using Chinese machinery to make it, then I would have very little choice. And that very little choice would take me, in the case of measuring tools to people like Woodpecker. And I resent paying, apparently, several times the price that I need to. Most of these tools are made from global commodities (stainless, aluminium) which have a global uniform price. They are made on CNC machines and, it seems to me, that the only labour input is in the handling - and therefore minimal to the cost per item.
I’ve heard about the cost of R&D investment. For a ruler? For a square? Really? Amy investment in R&D seems focussed on coming up with tools we don’t need but are fooled into buying by people who get paid to promote these tools.
So, is there a justification in the price of some premium brands? In terms of cost plus, no. In terms of what the bean counters and marketers think they can get away with, then that’s their justification. But history shows that this type of pricing philosophy rarely works long term.
There is a very good saying from the UK Arts and Crafts movement: patience and patience leads to perfection. You don’t need to spend the earth to get perfection.
Nice review, just one thing from a Chinese speaker: it’s pronounced “Hong Dway” not “Hong Doy”. The “ui” vowel combination in PinYin (romanized Mandarin Chinese) indicates the “way” sound in English. Might help you out since you like collaboration with the company, and their tools like nice. Keep up the cool vids!
thanks for the info! I´ll make sure to pronounce it correctly in the future - they make some awesome stuff.
Please care about safety as you care about the beauty of tools. Blade guards and riving knives can save fingers you need to unpack new tools 😉
For sure. I simply forgot to put the riving knife back after shooting the first part of the video. :) Thanks!
@@TheSwedishMaker Very glad for this explanation and glad no one was injured!. It would have been nice to mention this in the video itself. For some reason there are those who don't 'believe' in riving knives, citing BS like, "I've used a table saw for XX years and have never had an accident." So I hate to see examples were not using one is even seemingly reinforced...
Kreg used that kind of screws.
Steve's got a point!
He always does :)
I like the T-square. Wish I had $150 to burn.
I suggest you use the splitter on the table saw.
thats either a no 1, or no 2 Robertson bit, also known as a robbie
why dont you check the square properly ?? . 3 units along the base you had the square against from the line, then 4 units up the line then the distance between those 2 points will be 5 units if it is square.
Get a riving knife on that table saw immediately. You have a platform, and some naive newbie is going to emulate it, take theirs out and get a serious gut wound or worse. Kickback is such a simple thing to avoid. It baffles my mind that people wouldn't have at *least* a riving knife, if not a blade guard. A riving knife is the single most important and most effective piece of safety equipment in the shop.
The only reason for the kick back is that you've removed the riving knife. Just put it back and keep all your fingers.
That miter gauge-fence thingy looks awesome. How's the crotch doing 😅 ?
I had the good sense of not standing in front of it so the crotch is fine - luckily :)
If that depth gauge wasn’t long enough to measure his favourite tool before the kickback, it may well have been afterwards 😬
@@jmwoodcraft7842 😂
A speed square runs $10. 10 is 4 less than 14. It’s equally accurate.
> 10:32 - "It's a collaboration between Hongui and Canada United Clamps Corporation"
CUCC? There's a company called that?!
Pierre, more childish humour like this in your videos please, love it 😂
Will do :)
I like your video but not the technique of using a push stick on plywood. You need something that applies downward pressure and allows you to apply pressure towards the fence.
You place the push stick on the wrong side of your material (09:10). Use the stick to push the material to the side of the saw blade, for example 1-2 cm away from the saw blade
Its simply the missing riving knife
Probably will buy a miter square.
Did you mean "Bandsaw that looked like Marilyn Monroe"?
Because I am not getting near a power tool that looks like Marilyn Manson.
Pocket hole skruvar med fyrkantshuvud kan du beställa på proffsmagasinet :)
I wish there was another magical way magnets would stick to metal w\o ca glue. Hmmm
If I want to stick it to another metallic surface I need the glue.
Square Screws...?
*7:31 ...These square kind of screws? You mean ROBERTSON! Great Canadian Invention, better than Phillips (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robertson_screw)
You know you could have just used your own screws, I am sure this jig was not a one and done kind of kit.
I HAVE SPOKEN... all in fun, keep doing what you are doing.
Preach the way of the Robbie bit, Brother! 😂
Well said, cousin! If I could have only one screw driver, it would be a Red Robbie :) @@Itsnotmethistime
Nice review
Thank you! Cheers!
1) You must always have DOWNWARD PRESSURE on the piece touching the fence. The stick does ZERO to prevent twisting.
2) I have the Massca and it is very well made.
3) Your sense of humor is a treat.
4) Subbed.
This is generally bad advise. The reason for the kickback is the missing riving knife. If anyone follows this DOWNWARD PRESSURE advise who also is missing a riving knife.. they will soon be missing fingers also. Light (almost zero) downward pressure is the only way to prevent your hand being transported across the saw teeth at near light speed. The wood should move.. not your hand. You will not have the reflexes to prevent it. With the riving knife properly installed.. you will have a whole lot less subsequent problems. Make sure not to misunderstand the root cause.
Worlds first magnetic stainless steel...
Haha nono it exists :)
would work... wood work.... really bad joke, but follow earned....🤣
thanks! :)
Sorry, but the "kick back" on the saw.
I was told (by a German cabinet maker) to NOT have the fence any further forward than it needs to be from the front (cutting part) of the blade.
That way kick backs are very much less likely, as after the wood has been cut it CAN move away from the blade and is less likely to be thrown back towards you.
To me, you had the fence WAY TOO FAR forward.
No offense meant/intended. Just sharing what I was told.
When something is a moral dilemma it because you know its wrong and your desperately trying to justify it.
Riving knife
You had a kick back on your table saw because you had removed the riving knife, not because you were in a rush. You really should know better and if you don't, learn quickly whilst you still have all your fingers.
There is never a reason to remove the riving knife if its set to blade height. If you have a riving knife and top guard combined, buy a replacement part and make a proper riving knife out of it. Please do this before it's too late.
Titanic crashed into a mountain - that what caused it to sink. But really - ignorance was the real cause. I forgot to put the riving knife back when I was doing it quickly. I should have explained my thoughts better in the video.
Mmmmm, moral dilemmas. I'm afraid that is pretty much a myth with regard to purchasing goods - be they tools, clothing or whatever. Europeans buy cheap Chinese and Indian manufactured stuff because it is so much cheaper than similar items made in Europe or the UK. Clothes in particular have become so cheap they are virtually throw away, especially female garments. That 45 degree angle was a prime example. That would probably have been 3 to 4 times the price if made in a German factory.
The entire segment about the pocket hole jig was mind blowing user error.
First and foremost... Learn to use your tablesaw. Push material clear of the blade. Use the proper style of push block, a riving knife or at least a splitter on your insert and don't judge a pocket hole jig compared to anything other than a Kreg. That is the industry standard. 100% fact.
I agree. Like I said in the video - I was trying to be quick rather than safe - which is dumb. I had to remove the riving knife to use the table saw for shooting the intro of the video - forgot to put it back and then used the push stick on the wrong side. Which I did realise mid-way and was hoping it would work. I did one thing right and it was not standing in front of the blade - hence no damage done. I don't have the kreg jig - but If I did - I would of course compare it was well.
You like living dangerous, aren’t you? Or why don’t you use a riving knife?
Ok I watched till 13seconds and had to turn off, sorry, No no no not a good example😢
the riving knife is back on again
That was the point. He was showing that he made a mistake so others could learn from it.
@@Taliesen. But made no mention of what could have prevented it. That isn't really a teaching moment.
@@Taliesen. after having an accident myself with a router I still have pictures from mangled skin bone and blood in my head, I’d have liked, if that’s the case, a warning, sorry if I’m a mouse but that brought things up for me
@@TheSwedishMaker thank you, after my router accident it touched a nerve, I still won’t watch it but liked and would request a warning in the future, yes that means I will watch others from you but not that one, sorry
Ugh, Chinese quality control 😒
So far nothing good to much for what it’s honestly that jig is a joke and is to expensive that is nice square but is to price who designed this fence maybe the one design the iPhones quality quality pure 👌👍