Triple-T
Vložit
- čas přidán 28. 02. 2024
- #tyrellknifeworks
In today's Triple-T (tools, tips and talk) #173, we continue with the Beginner Series and go deep into profiling, surface and drilling your knife.
Maritime Knife Supply: maritimeknifesupply.ca/
My Website: www.tyrellknifeworks.com
My Instagram: / tyrellknifeworks
My Patreon: / tyrellknifeworks
My Amazon Storefront: www.amazon.com/shop/tyrellkni...
Abrasives by Brodbeck Ironworks: brodbeckironworks.com/
Amazon Lists of tools I use:
(These are Amazon Affiliate Links and this channel gets a commission with no cost to you)
General Tools: www.amazon.com/shop/tyrellkni...
Forging Tools: www.amazon.com/shop/tyrellkni...
Forge Building Tools: www.amazon.com/shop/tyrellkni...
Grinding/Sanding/Finishing Tools: www.amazon.com/shop/tyrellkni...
Leatherworking Tools: www.amazon.com/shop/tyrellkni...
Casting Tools:
www.amazon.com/shop/tyrellkni...
Hydraulic Press Parts: www.amazon.com/shop/tyrellkni...
2x72 Surface Grinder Parts: www.amazon.com/shop/tyrellkni...
Video/Audio Tools: www.amazon.com/shop/tyrellkni... - Jak na to + styl
Was there anything I missed or things you have questions about?
which type of belt sander to use (grain size) and when to use a different one?
I think everything else was pretty well explained
@@jorgepr13we’ll cover that in the next episode when we talk about grinding basics. 👍
Hey Denis, can you make a video on abrasives and talk about the different types of belts their are on the market and which belts (brand, type, grit) would you recommend for sharpening, hogging off material, shaping handle material etc. Also if you can include leather stropping and honing belts and which compound for the leather belt would you recommend. Thanks !!!
@@Ponzesto. I'll be covering a lot of that in this week's video. The sharpening belts and strops will be covered in the video where I talk about sharpening.
@TyrellKnifeworks thanks alot !!! Your videos are very helpful !!
This series continues to cover essential information and techniques. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching, Bryson
I've been watching you for many years. I've never made a knife. I have no real aspirations to ever build a knife. I don't have the tools to build a knife.
But, I like the way you teach; very informative, give options on how to get from point "A" to "B", and are never condescending.
I like the process and the final result. And that, you do very well!
Thanks for following along at least! ❤️
Outstanding workmanship 👏👏
Thank you! Cheers!
Its great to have a master sharing all the little tips and tricks , usually it like a secret that you have to beg and plead for
Well I’m not a master yet, but I appreciate the thought. 😜. Thanks for tuning in!
@@TyrellKnifeworks no way! With your skill
@@wulfy9I may go for my master in a few years.
Awesome video. Working on my first knife right now. Went a lil out of order but im getting there. Gonna ne watching a lot of your vids a few times over lol. Thaks for the great content
Thanks for following the channel!
Great job explaining and love the little extra tips. I don't know why I never considered turning my tool rest for getting the 90 on the top wheel. I just ordered a mag chuck from you and getting excited to build a surface grinder attachment. Keep doing what you are doing.
I’m glad you had some takeaways from this video. I just saw your order, thank you!
Good Morning 😊
Good morning, Matt! ❤️
Great video as always my friend 👍 when you get your hand sanding machine ready make sure im your first customer please 😁
If you haven’t already, send an email to tyrellknifeworks at gmail and I’ll put you on the list for the sanding machine. Thanks for watching, Richard
Very nice. Please cover knife blade thickness for verious knife styles. Thank you
That is somewhat arbitrary and up to the designer, but I plan to have an episode on knife design and I’ll try to cover it there. Thanks for watching, Kevin!
Thanks for the tip i am taking it after having a hard time going through some w2 and 1084 blade a couple days ago (i ended up punching and drifting the holes) if i ordered it right i went though your affiliate to get the endmills.
You’ll be much happier. They’ll cut through hardened steel like butter. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I am looking forword to using them but its going to be a bit until I can forge again for a while as i Just had to go under the knife for some emergency surgery. and have to have another operation in about about 2 weeks to a month to get back to 100%
@@gundanium3126I hope you recover quickly.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you I seem to be
Great tutorial so far. What number grit was the yellow belt?
That’s a 36 grit. I should have mentioned that info, sorry. Thanks for watching.
looking good denis i see you had a yellow belt on grinder is that a incenerator as well?something new?
That was one of the new Norton belts. Just trying it out. Thanks for watching.
had a quick question about cu mai, not sure where else to ask it haha. planning a stainless jacket over a high carbon core separated by copper. i don't have a press, and figured getting a braze to stick would be a lot easier than a stainless to high carbon forge weld (san mai). strangely, i dont see a lot of cu mai done in this configuration, would have assumed it would be common due to the dramatic look of the black etched high carbon to the stainless, and the obvious benefits of stainless jackets.
is there difficulty getting these things to all stick together? any known issues between stainless and copper?
thanks for all the extremely useful content!
The most impressive part of the stainless jacket builds is the ghost line between the two. That’s the carbon migration into the stainless. You’re not going to get that by putting copper between which is why many people probably don’t do it. I’ve never tried it but I don’t see any reason it wouldn’t work. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks ah, that's a good point. guess the stainless and copper might kind of 'blend' without the contrast to make the copper pop, such as with high carbon or damascus jackets. maybe i'll go with all high carbon and play with some nickel layers.
thanks for the response!
🤔Edited comment: What's the point of the wetted rag if you take a torch to soften it when you have not heat treated it? as in my experience you dont have to take it to red, just too gray, and I do this well holding it in my hand with no heat creeping up. However, I start heating at the tang riccanso area, then once that is gray, I quickly start moving down the tang, moving the heat down it and i have had no oxidation colors form. (if that makes sense) I do it to also soften my tang to make it easier to machine and more ductile after heat treating to prevent shaping and never had the blade get hotter then probally 200 F (i never checked with my laser temperature gun so i am just going by oh that hurts level heat).
I’m not really sure what your questions have to do with this video. I didn’t mention any of annealing or torch tempering. I haven’t even heat treated this blade yet so there’s no worries of overheating it. I’ll be covering heat treatment in the next video and final grinding after that. Thanks for watching.
Also, you can absolutely reach MUCH higher temps than 400F with a propane or map gas torch. You can easily reach 1500F with those on a small cross section like a knife.
@@TyrellKnifeworks@TyrellKnifeworks ,😳 OH, sorry, it's been a stressful couple days, and I started ranting. I was trying to describe how to soften with a torch if you can't drill through it, and I think the term subcritical annealing to do it. i use it when I can't drill through a tang after i aneal in vermiculite do to hitting a hard spot (or i need to sharpen my bits), and it tends to work. I am going to edit the comment to make it more clear and remove some of the ranting. And True, you can reach 1500F if you hold it in one spot like you are going to do a burn-through, but the heat does not creep up the blade from the tang to a high degree, especially if you have it locked in a heat sink, like a vise.
PS: here is the edited comment: What's the point of the wetted rag if you take a torch to soften it when you have not heat treated it? as in my experience you dont have to take it to red, just too gray, and I do this well holding it in my hand with no heat creeping up that caused oxidation colors to appear on the blade. however, I start heating at the tang riccanso area, then once that is gray, I quickly start moving down the tang, moving the heat down it. (if that makes sense) I do it to also soften my tang to make it easier to machine and more ductile after heat treating to prevent shaping and never had the blade get hotter then probally 200 F (i never checked with my laser temperature gun so i am just going by oh that hurts level heat)
@@gundanium3126 I’m quite familiar with how to soften a tang with heat and what a sub-critical anneal is. The point here was to show an easier way to drill holes without having to do all that.
@@TyrellKnifeworks@TyrellKnifeworks Sorry, You mentioned you need to use a wet rag to do it with a torch, and that confused me and got me starting to rant. I was trying to ask what the point of the Wet rag is if you are using touch to take the residual hardness out of the Tang to drill through it if you have not heat-treated it you dont need to protect the temper. What kind of drill press are you using as i am wondering if its a good idea to stick to lowest speed setting for bits? as i use a VSD drill press with digital speed readout and lever adjusting speed and tend to operate it the bits at the recommended speeds for iron alloys via a speed chart. (it sounds like an expensive press but it's a Wen and was around 400 bucks on Amazon)
I am sorry I was not clear about what I was asking in the original comment. I am overthinking things, and I edited the comment because I don't like putting bad information out there if someone gets some info from the comments...and had some bad experiences on facebook. and tend to ramble.