Sandro, I finally saw this one. Man do I wish I lived in your area...I'd pay to come watch you in-person. Brother, you are just outstanding. Congratulations. I cannot wait to see more of your content. And, you're a great teacher as well. Cheers, brother. Be well.
When I get complacent with the detailing of my cars, I always come back to your videos. Your honesty about your products you use, and your attention to detail, no matter the budget of your client, makes me get excited about cleaning my cars again. Thank you for what you do, and for helping guys like me.
The 6 people that gave this a thumbs down should be thrown to the wolves. This video is excellent! Lord I hate working on a white and black cars but when they look good, they look good. Looking forward to the paint correction!
The epitome of never resting on one’s laurels. Great production and as always, killer work. I had to come back and say that this video…was a damn movie. Just incredible video editing and music integration. It’s an example for any other channel to follow.
Well, this wash looks extremely thorough, one to follow for professionals and enthusiasts alike. I don't relish spending a whole day to wash my own car, as much as I even enjoy the process, but it's nice to see what it takes and use these techniques in my own wash method. Thanks for doing this!
Sometimes it is painful to watch top level professional artists with such determination and the strife for perfection work, because their work and the final result is always an extension and reflection of their persona and generally such continous self-induced stress is not healthy but unfortunately is the secret to be special and outstanding. by the same token lowering your standards on purpose for a job is very hard to deal with as well, but as we all know you have to somehow adjust and end up overdelivering anyways just because of that very persona. cherry on top: you will never get paid what you deserve.
Sandro I took your advice and used some Nv Lustre over Turtle wax graphene flex wax. I thought the shine was really good before, but Lustre took it to a different level. Thanks.
Hey Sandro! I saw your method of using a Chemical Decon followed by the foaming, which sparked a lot of curiosity in me since it does make a lot of sense! So I've been trying it out and been enjoying the results. It helped shorten my whole decon wash and matches with my techniques and methodology. Just now in the hunt for the right chemical that works well enough to break down everything/lifts it all. I'm on the hunt for one that is more acidic on the pH scale since we're foam we're hitting it with will be higher pH to neutralize the acidic of that chemical. Also, looking that isn't too costly. I was wondering why you don't use this method for all of your Wash & Decontamination? Keep up the hard work, and thanks for always sharing knowledge experiences and taking your time to make this content!!!!
Thanks mate and I’m glad it helped! For me detailing has always been a progression and largely experimentation that relays on consistent results and that takes time and repetition to really get substantial information, that’s why I hold off on necessary adapting new methods, techniques and products until I feel they are proven to me. The thing about products that clean extraordinary well is that it’s hard to find ones that are also safe with repeated use and of course affordable- it’s a hard thing to get all those characteristics and usually there’s a compromise to be made, but once again, happy its working well mate
Man that pre wash was satisfying. Great job demonstration how important a thorough pre wash is. Looking forward to the rest of the series. Hope you and your family are doing well.
Hey Sandro! I’m a little late in viewing this awesome series but I’m stoked because this one kind of hits home. I own a white(mineral white metallic) BMW which looks amazingly close to the color of this gorgeous X5. Let me just say I really enjoy having online class weekly with you….what an amazing experience. I’ve learned so much in the past couple of years or so that I truly believe I couldn’t have gain being in a hands on class here in the States. Thanks again and I look forward to the rest of the series! -- I’m in a similar situation as the owners of this X5 in that I don’t have a garage and my car is parked outside as well….and the environment has spoken! 😂 I have tree sap all over my car from the surrounding trees around my property. I’ve invested in a high-end car cover to help combat any future problems but I need to get this crap off my car without causing any harm. HELP! 😂 I washed it and then use a synthetic clay pad….very lightly I might add and it didn’t want to come off. With a concentrated effort on one spot at a time I was able to remove some. Any advice as far as products and methods would be greatly appreciated! I hope you and the family are well. Cheers mate!
White paint with some nice contrasting black trims is a hard combination to beat - always looks vibrant and crisp! Tree sap is definitely something I wouldn’t want to deal with constantly! If it’s piled high, you can carefully use a small blade to shave it down, but if you’re dealing with smaller spots and tree sap stains a good tar/adhesive remover sprayed on, left to dwell and then wiped over can work pretty well - you may need to repeat the process. Not all tree sap is created equal, so sometimes I find that undiluted isopropyl alcohol can also work well and if it’s really stubborn stuff, light and responsible use of acetone should really do it; use it quickly and sparingly to wipe once or twice, wipe it off and repeat if you need to - don’t rub it in continuously or aggressively. If the tree sap hasn’t been on there too long or is too big, a courser grade of clay can sometimes also pick it up. Hope that helps mate and I’m really glad you’ve been finding value in the videos!
This kind of video must immensely help understand customers what they are getting when hiring your expertise.Don't know how to explain to a random person why it took you 4 hours+ to "wash" a car before polishing :D
Sandro, thanks to you I have discovered to spray Tar-X before snow-foaming and let it seat 3-4 minutes alone. After rinsing down - approx 90-95% of sh@t is removed in a touchless method. The rest is simply removed by gentle hand wash with a quality wash mitt and a quality shampoo, such as a CarPro Reset for ex. I am writing about my cars only, which are coated and we are entering winter season now, when here, in Sweden, majority is using winter tires with spikes and after a week my car is full of tar and bitumen from the road. So, during 6 months of winter I am using this technique. Coating at lower parts and rear of my cars are not surviving until spring and I am trying to top up it somewhere in January by Cquartz Lite + Reload. This helps a lot and I am able to see hydrofobic effect in April still. And I was surprised you have started rinsing down after snow foam from the top!???? I am doing always from the bottom (after smow foam), otherwise botom will be rinsed out until you will reach it with pressure washer.... This was you who teached to do so)))) Great video Man, thank you, enjoyed by full family!
It sounds like you have got you wash, maintenance and topping up down perfectly. A good detailer always knows that every car and circumstance is different and being able to adapt accordingly is always key my friend - so well done!
Great video as always Its alot of car I have did a brand new BMW X5 for my colleague It was covered in red paint spots all over the car I did a chemical decontamination but never used clay on the paint I never felt or seen any other fallout so there was no need I did my test spots what i ended up using was carpro reflect with a medium orange HDO pad So it was still a gentle aproach to leave as much clearcoat on the X5 What i have learned is There is no ONE giant step that does it, it's A LOT OF little steps. Each step leads to the next Sandro i love watching your full wash clip Some people still think its less important which is far form the case so keep them coming In sandro we trust
Thanks Bob and I think you perfectly layer out my own philosophy and practices there: use the least aggressive that works and gently remove the grime in layers!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks to you and your methodology You have taught me more than i can say Sandro you are a true educator Education is the movement from darkness to light. Thank you IN sandro we Trust
Love to see white paintwork being cleaned, can be very satisfying finish. I've never used a Claying cloth and would like any feedback if it is as effective as a pad or clay and does it leave less swirling. Thanks Brenton.
Thanks Brenton, and just like traditional clay, synthetic clay also depends on the specific cloth, towel, block or pad you use. But more generally I’d say synthetic clay can be less aggressive because it’s much quicker at removing fallout so you don’t need to clay as much, but it can be more aggressive if used in an aggressive manner so technique is a big determining factor.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks again for your help, to me it seemed to be a little safer on new pain if used delicately. And again love these series so helpful. Brenton
@David Gotelli Appreciate you thoughts on this I have a new Lexus and didn't want to go in toward before I put on a ceramic coating. This being my 6th Lexus I've found that their paintwork is pretty damn good on delivery so this cloth seems a great option if used lightly.
On average I’d say 3-4hrs to do a thorough job, but sometimes it’s much less if the car isn’t too bad and other times much longer if the car is extremely bad.
Dear Maestro: Another great video. Question: It is possible to apply the IronX and the TarX at the same time before the stripping pre-wash foaming? Wondering that doing it that way it will decrease the detox-pre washing phase time... Please let me know you comments. Greetings from Monterrey México. 🇲🇽
Thanks and yes, I’m pretty sure I’ve shown that in some older videos. Usually Tar deposits don’t effect the upper panels, but I usually spray Iron-X all over and Tar-X on the lower panels. You can also use Carpro Tr.iX that’s a combined iron and tar remover in one.
Amazing, extremely detailed step by step! I've recently made the purchase of a 10 year old black audi q7, which I'm going to detail out. Currently my detailing equipment consists of 2 buckets and cotton wash rags. What are your recommendations to get my detailing arsenal to a more do it yourself at home detailing level?... starting from scratch 😅
There should be listed items in the description that would be my general recommendations as I typically use them a lot. But a pressure washer is a must, a stack of decent microfibre cloths and a MF drying towel, an APC (all purpose cleaner), a maintenance and decontamination car wash soaps, a couple of MF wash mitts and iron and tar removers, a nice tyre and trim dressings will be a decent start to begin an arsenal.
Where is the more than one thumbs up button? Another great, informative video Sandro. Thanks! Looking forward to next part(s). What is your opinion on Carpro Trix (iron and tar remover in one) ? I do not see you use it.
Thanks mate, and I have used Tr.ix in some older videos, but I guess the main reason I use those products separately is that tar deposits are usually just on the lower panels and fallout is usually more prominent on the horizontal panels, so I prefer to spot treat as needed.
This is the first video that I just found now and watched from you and I have to let you know that I really enjoyed it! Proper and amazing work and video!!! 👏🏻🤩👍🏻
Great video man! I love your process and how you take such a thorough approach. I am curious though. What do you charge for something like this? If it took as long as you say then that must be a big price tag for decon.
Sandro! I take care of one of these monthly. The owner is a neighbor of mine, and they only put on a few hundred KM every couple months. (They are retired) but the wheels almost always tend to be caked with brake dust and the vehicle almost always has fallout. It must be a BMW thing.
@@leslie7922 its absolutely mind blowing, every month all the crevices in and around the wheels are almost always that burnt brake dust color. It is a beautiful SUV otherwise. Crafted very well.
I’d say that in my experience European cars always produce way more brake dust than their Japanese and other car maker counterparts! I definitely notice this on my own cars as well!
Hi Sandro! Great vid as always! I'm having issues to make my snow foam 'work'... I know where I live there's medium hard water. How can I fix this? It is too runny and runs off too quickly. Thnx man.
Thanks man, and there’s a few things that can help. As you mentioned hard water will kill suds, so a deionised water system is one solution and they are getting much more affordable. Another thing that will make a significant difference is your pressure washer - I higher PSI matched to a higher LPM water flow can do wonders. Lastly the foam Lance/cannon itself can also have have a big impact - they are not all created equal.
Great job Sandro. This car is exactly like mine - same wheels, color, everything - so I was definitely taking notes on this one. Never thought to lift up the tailgate plastic to clean under there! I was always weary about using a brush on painted surfaces because I thought it could cause marring. Not an issue?
Great to hear mate, hope it helps! All the pre-soak chemical and foam treatments together with pressure rinsing and blasting the water into those door jamb openings should help remove all the looser dirt first so that the brushing us less aggressive, but a good feathered end brush also helps. Alternatively you can certainly also use the Tornador air tool or even a steamer - I’ve shown that on a few past videos.
I have a new (used) X5 and I can tell the previous owner took it through a regular car wash. It has so many scratches! My previous car was an X3 and it took me all day to wash it. Watching all your detail work, I’m wondering how long it takes you to wash an X5? As a non professional, it will take me twice as long and it might be better for me to have a professional clean it and I can do maintenance washes. Your video’s are very relaxing.
If it’s just a maintenance wash (rather than a more intensive periodic decontamination wash/clean which would be done once or twice a year) I’d say it would take 60-90mins to give a larger SUV a good weekly/fortnightly wash. The key is to do a decontamination wash and strip the car back before adding a wax, sealant or coating periodically, so that weekly maintenance wash are much easier to perform. Thanks mate, really nice to hear you’ve been enjoying the videos.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Looks like I will be shopping for some more products for this year. I usually use AmmoNY, but I want to try some Gyeon as well. Thank you for the reply.
Hi Sandro! I keep coming back to your videos!! A question about, in your case NV Purify, chemical decon. Can you apply the same technique with BugOut by CarPro, or any another brand? I find the suggested dwell time of 30 sec ineffective in most cases... you talk about several minutes!
Dwell times will vary a lot between certain products and environments as will safely and effectiveness. I did quite a bit testing with Purify before adapting this technique and in truth that’s the only way your going to know for certain if BugOut will fair the same. What I can say is that extended dwell times do generally increase effectiveness but it’s chemicals drying on the surface that’s almost always the cause of chemical stains/etchings. So if you can keep it from drying and sitting longer it’s usually an increased result and safe, but there are exceptions which is why testing is important.
Thanks mate and yes, like I mentioned in the video if you intentionally blast water into the jamb areas with a good technique it works well to flush them out.
I have a question, isn't the grill parts and the plastic around the mirror and inside the gas cap area and all that pretty sturdy - the brush you were using looked pretty soft, but couldn't they actually take a stiffer brush if they were grimy?
You could potentially use something a touch stiffer but I wouldn’t use an overly aggressive brush. It’s best to let the detergents and chemicals break down that dirt and grime and just use the brush to work them in. You can also use degreasers, tar and mineral spot removers to help if need be.
Great video. How are you Sandro? I've seen a few draconian videos of people in Australia being manhandled for not complying with mask mandates... Pretty crazy.
Thanks mate, I’m well as can be in these times and hope you and your family are in good health! Regardless of what side of the political or moral aisle you’re on or whether you support this strong government regulation/enforcement or not, there’s no denying that Australia’s powers that be are ruling with extreme force over its people with extreme consequences for anyone that doesn’t comply.
Eagerly awaiting part two, I decided to watch this one for a third time!! Thanks for another informative video. Quick question, I am using CarPro Trix but am a bit reluctant to use it on my car which has a lot of black plastic trim (e.g. side skirts). Do I have anything to worry about? I’m worried about the Tar remover staining the trim!!
Part 2 isn’t far off! Tar removers and the content in Tr.ix can in more rare cases cause some hazing on clear plastics and sensitive piano plastics, so you have some justification in being cautious there. If it does happen, usually a light polish will restore the finish quite well, but it is a little extra work that’s annoying to have to if that happens.
Appreciate that, and it wasn’t used because there was no need for claying. Every process needs to have a reason and outcomes and on this particular vehicle there was no reason to clay based on my inspection during the process.
Hi Sandro, what do you mean by "neat"? For example, you have CarPro TarX (neat). Does it mean undilluted? (I vaguely remember this from your other videos) Also, QQ - what did machine are you using for the final drying stage?
It’s best to take recommendations from the coating’s manufacturer, but as far as I can tell most graphene coatings still contain a majority of SiO2 content, so I would think that you can really treat and maintain them as you would any ceramic coating.
Hi Sandro, great video love it. Just a quick question. I believe that you used the iron decon before even the initial rinse. If the paint is slightly on the warmer side (body is hot from the sun) is there anything that I should take note of? Thanks
If you’re outdoors and working on a hot/warm vehicle, I’d recommend firstly rinsing the car down to drop its temperature and the water sitting on the paint should also extend the dwelling time of your chemical. The main thing to avoid allowing the chemical fully dry on the surface, so lowering the surface temperature and leaving a little water on it will greatly help you extend the dwell time in that case.
Thanks mate, and Lustre generally works well over or even under most other sealants as it has a great bonding ability. Every now and then it my not play well with certain waxes sealants and coatings but that’s more of an exception.
Hey mate. Saw that after you apply the iron remover you didn’t rinse it off and straight foam up the whole car. Is it safe to do that? Because I ever mix iron remover and soft 99 shampoo it turns out to become jelly
Not all products are the same so there may be instances where there don’t mesh well together, but these products used in sequence have worked very well for me.
Thanks and it’s the Aquatouch Muscles wash mitt, here’s a link if you want to have a look: www.waxit.com.au/products/aquatouch-muscles?ref=1NNwBEgP4yO4AX
It hit it a few times with the chemical and wipe of, then try clay (more aggressive types of clay can help remove more stubborn particles) then compounding is the next thing to try, you can also gently and precisely use a little scraper for larger isolated particles and last but not least would be sanding.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing So that's the first time I've heard one of the detail pros talk about using a compound to actually clean stains and grime... I've only seen it done with super decontaminated paint correction.. good to know that's an option. Might be worth a video.
Immolube is always diluted from 1:10 (heavy clay) through 1:20 (light clay), and it's a pure lube (free from other chemicals). From the sequence of work he had already chemically decontaminated with Purify during the pre-wash, so once it was decided some clay was required better to use a pure lube as opposed to breaking out the Purify again.
Really like this video, mainly because the condition of this car really match what I am experiencing with my own. Only down side is to constantly looking at that tumour like BMW grill ...... Man , it's so ugly.
Hi Sandro, long time viewer and would really appreciate some advice as I'm stumped, today at the race track a car in front covered me in a nice oily mist as something blew covering the whole front of my car... what's the best method/product's (ideally something retail based) to remove the oily contamination, ideally without being too harsh?
Wax and grease remover, you can purchase it in aerosol spray and use a soft microfiber to wipe away the residue just go gentle .. you can use as much product as you like it won't hurt any paint or plastic finishes but it will possibly remove any waxes or detail sprays you have on yout car..
Start with a good intensive pre-soak and hand wash. On a retail level something like Clemtech CT18 could work well as both a ore-soak foam and then in your wash bucket, otherwise just whatever decent strip car wash detergent you can find. The thing is that not all road grease and contamination is the same so you’ll just have see what breaks it down and just the strip car wash could do it. Otherwise as @PaulReichelt mentioned, you could use a prepsol or wax and grease remover, or a light dilution of APC or Degreaser such as Meguiar’s. If all else fails, a Tar and adhesive remover used like I did in this video should really do the job.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing and @PaulReichelt - Thank you both for the prompt replies and advice, really appreciated. Perfect, I already have some CT18 on hand for the mountain bike and will give that a go tomorrow - keen to get it off ASAP and will start there as advised. Will do a wax remover and and re-seal in due course - just want to get it off safely and effectively now.
You know it gonna be perfect when you hear his "Hey Guys Sandro here"
🙂
Sandro, I finally saw this one. Man do I wish I lived in your area...I'd pay to come watch you in-person. Brother, you are just outstanding. Congratulations. I cannot wait to see more of your content. And, you're a great teacher as well.
Cheers, brother. Be well.
When I get complacent with the detailing of my cars, I always come back to your videos. Your honesty about your products you use, and your attention to detail, no matter the budget of your client, makes me get excited about cleaning my cars again. Thank you for what you do, and for helping guys like me.
My absolute pleasure mate and it’s really nice to hear that!
The 6 people that gave this a thumbs down should be thrown to the wolves. This video is excellent! Lord I hate working on a white and black cars but when they look good, they look good. Looking forward to the paint correction!
Your attention to detail is incredible. I pattern my detailing business after you. Great job sir.
Thank mate, really nice to hear!
The epitome of never resting on one’s laurels. Great production and as always, killer work.
I had to come back and say that this video…was a damn movie. Just incredible video editing and music integration. It’s an example for any other channel to follow.
I enjoy the fact you mention the product used and the ratio on the screen. It's a very big help. Great video!
Simply amazing! I must say this man must have the forearms of a god after all that spraying
Well, this wash looks extremely thorough, one to follow for professionals and enthusiasts alike. I don't relish spending a whole day to wash my own car, as much as I even enjoy the process, but it's nice to see what it takes and use these techniques in my own wash method. Thanks for doing this!
Sometimes it is painful to watch top level professional artists with such determination and the strife for perfection work, because their work and the final result is always an extension and reflection of their persona and generally such continous self-induced stress is not healthy but unfortunately is the secret to be special and outstanding. by the same token lowering your standards on purpose for a job is very hard to deal with as well, but as we all know you have to somehow adjust and end up overdelivering anyways just because of that very persona. cherry on top: you will never get paid what you deserve.
Wow. What an articulate way to describe this feeling. Thank you
Master class in Decon right here.
Sandro I took your advice and used some Nv Lustre over Turtle wax graphene flex wax. I thought the shine was really good before, but Lustre took it to a different level. Thanks.
Thanks great to hear mate!
Had a lousy day at work today. Watching this Sandro just made it better. Always so good to watch!! Cheers from Liverpool UK.
nicely shot and informative, I like that you went for a cinematography Oscar with some of your editing haha. As usual, good music taste also.
Sweet, looking forward to part 2!
Great job Sandro!
Thank you mate!
Finally one I can really relate too. Cleaning the wheels on my X6M is exhausting hour process
Hey Sandro! I saw your method of using a Chemical Decon followed by the foaming, which sparked a lot of curiosity in me since it does make a lot of sense! So I've been trying it out and been enjoying the results. It helped shorten my whole decon wash and matches with my techniques and methodology. Just now in the hunt for the right chemical that works well enough to break down everything/lifts it all. I'm on the hunt for one that is more acidic on the pH scale since we're foam we're hitting it with will be higher pH to neutralize the acidic of that chemical. Also, looking that isn't too costly.
I was wondering why you don't use this method for all of your Wash & Decontamination?
Keep up the hard work, and thanks for always sharing knowledge experiences and taking your time to make this content!!!!
Thanks mate and I’m glad it helped!
For me detailing has always been a progression and largely experimentation that relays on consistent results and that takes time and repetition to really get substantial information, that’s why I hold off on necessary adapting new methods, techniques and products until I feel they are proven to me.
The thing about products that clean extraordinary well is that it’s hard to find ones that are also safe with repeated use and of course affordable- it’s a hard thing to get all those characteristics and usually there’s a compromise to be made, but once again, happy its working well mate
Incredible work as always!!
This was an impeccable wash
Amazing work as always Sandro! 😃
Thank you mate!
Man that pre wash was satisfying. Great job demonstration how important a thorough pre wash is. Looking forward to the rest of the series. Hope you and your family are doing well.
Thank you mate and returning my best wishes to you and your family.
Prep is key, mate. Can't stress that enough.
Superb work yet again on this buddy. Also the quality of the production and edit is not lost on us. Can’t wait for part 2
Excellent work Sandro thank you. Jeremy Downunder
Hey Sandro!
I’m a little late in viewing this awesome series but I’m stoked because this one kind of hits home. I own a white(mineral white metallic) BMW which looks amazingly close to the color of this gorgeous X5.
Let me just say I really enjoy having online class weekly with you….what an amazing experience. I’ve learned so much in the past couple of years or so that I truly believe I couldn’t have gain being in a hands on class here in the States. Thanks again and I look forward to the rest of the series!
-- I’m in a similar situation as the owners of this X5 in that I don’t have a garage and my car is parked outside as well….and the environment has spoken! 😂 I have tree sap all over my car from the surrounding trees around my property. I’ve invested in a high-end car cover to help combat any future problems but I need to get this crap off my car without causing any harm. HELP! 😂 I washed it and then use a synthetic clay pad….very lightly I might add and it didn’t want to come off. With a concentrated effort on one spot at a time I was able to remove some. Any advice as far as products and methods would be greatly appreciated!
I hope you and the family are well. Cheers mate!
White paint with some nice contrasting black trims is a hard combination to beat - always looks vibrant and crisp!
Tree sap is definitely something I wouldn’t want to deal with constantly! If it’s piled high, you can carefully use a small blade to shave it down, but if you’re dealing with smaller spots and tree sap stains a good tar/adhesive remover sprayed on, left to dwell and then wiped over can work pretty well - you may need to repeat the process. Not all tree sap is created equal, so sometimes I find that undiluted isopropyl alcohol can also work well and if it’s really stubborn stuff, light and responsible use of acetone should really do it; use it quickly and sparingly to wipe once or twice, wipe it off and repeat if you need to - don’t rub it in continuously or aggressively. If the tree sap hasn’t been on there too long or is too big, a courser grade of clay can sometimes also pick it up.
Hope that helps mate and I’m really glad you’ve been finding value in the videos!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks Sandro.
Great video
Yes
Amazing work 👍🏻
Very nice! Looking forward to the rest of the series. Thanks, Sandro!
Hope you enjoy this whole series!
This kind of video must immensely help understand customers what they are getting when hiring your expertise.Don't know how to explain to a random person why it took you 4 hours+ to "wash" a car before polishing :D
As always, your work is incredible. Great video!
Really appreciate that mate!
I love the video I really like how u specific talked ab everything u used thank you so much❤️
Awesome to hear, thanks!
Sandro, thanks to you I have discovered to spray Tar-X before snow-foaming and let it seat 3-4 minutes alone. After rinsing down - approx 90-95% of sh@t is removed in a touchless method. The rest is simply removed by gentle hand wash with a quality wash mitt and a quality shampoo, such as a CarPro Reset for ex. I am writing about my cars only, which are coated and we are entering winter season now, when here, in Sweden, majority is using winter tires with spikes and after a week my car is full of tar and bitumen from the road. So, during 6 months of winter I am using this technique. Coating at lower parts and rear of my cars are not surviving until spring and I am trying to top up it somewhere in January by Cquartz Lite + Reload. This helps a lot and I am able to see hydrofobic effect in April still.
And I was surprised you have started rinsing down after snow foam from the top!???? I am doing always from the bottom (after smow foam), otherwise botom will be rinsed out until you will reach it with pressure washer.... This was you who teached to do so))))
Great video Man, thank you, enjoyed by full family!
It sounds like you have got you wash, maintenance and topping up down perfectly. A good detailer always knows that every car and circumstance is different and being able to adapt accordingly is always key my friend - so well done!
Great video as always Its alot of car I have did a brand new BMW X5 for my colleague It was covered in red paint spots all over the car I did a chemical decontamination but never used clay on the paint I never felt or seen any other fallout so there was no need I did my test spots what i ended up using was carpro reflect with a medium orange HDO pad So it was still a gentle aproach to leave as much clearcoat on the X5 What i have learned is There is no ONE giant step that does it, it's A LOT OF little steps. Each step leads to the next Sandro i love watching your full wash clip Some people still think its less important which is far form the case so keep them coming In sandro we trust
Thanks Bob and I think you perfectly layer out my own philosophy and practices there: use the least aggressive that works and gently remove the grime in layers!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks to you and your methodology You have taught me more than i can say Sandro you are a true educator Education is the movement from darkness to light. Thank you IN sandro we Trust
Its like watching Jordan on the court
Jordan is the G.O.A.T … but I’ll take that 🙂
Love to see white paintwork being cleaned, can be very satisfying finish. I've never used a Claying cloth and would like any feedback if it is as effective as a pad or clay and does it leave less swirling. Thanks Brenton.
Thanks Brenton, and just like traditional clay, synthetic clay also depends on the specific cloth, towel, block or pad you use. But more generally I’d say synthetic clay can be less aggressive because it’s much quicker at removing fallout so you don’t need to clay as much, but it can be more aggressive if used in an aggressive manner so technique is a big determining factor.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks again for your help, to me it seemed to be a little safer on new pain if used delicately. And again love these series so helpful. Brenton
@David Gotelli Appreciate you thoughts on this I have a new Lexus and didn't want to go in toward before I put on a ceramic coating. This being my 6th Lexus I've found that their paintwork is pretty damn good on delivery so this cloth seems a great option if used lightly.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Awesome video as always mate. Just to add to this while using the clay cloth do you rinse it out or anything after each panel?
Thanks @Chris, and I usually flip and fold the cloth after each panel and give it a rinse after every few panels.
Complimenti, ottimo lavoro!!!
Impressive approach and lesson 🤗
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks Sandro nice video, hope you end up having to use the 21mm shine mate on this harder paint.
Hy Sandro, how may hour does it take the wash and deconatmination?
You are the best Detailer in the World and a perfect Mentor. Regards for Austria
On average I’d say 3-4hrs to do a thorough job, but sometimes it’s much less if the car isn’t too bad and other times much longer if the car is extremely bad.
Dear Maestro: Another great video. Question: It is possible to apply the IronX and the TarX at the same time before the stripping pre-wash foaming? Wondering that doing it that way it will decrease the detox-pre washing phase time...
Please let me know you comments.
Greetings from Monterrey México. 🇲🇽
Thanks and yes, I’m pretty sure I’ve shown that in some older videos. Usually Tar deposits don’t effect the upper panels, but I usually spray Iron-X all over and Tar-X on the lower panels. You can also use Carpro Tr.iX that’s a combined iron and tar remover in one.
Amazing, extremely detailed step by step! I've recently made the purchase of a 10 year old black audi q7, which I'm going to detail out. Currently my detailing equipment consists of 2 buckets and cotton wash rags. What are your recommendations to get my detailing arsenal to a more do it yourself at home detailing level?... starting from scratch 😅
There should be listed items in the description that would be my general recommendations as I typically use them a lot. But a pressure washer is a must, a stack of decent microfibre cloths and a MF drying towel, an APC (all purpose cleaner), a maintenance and decontamination car wash soaps, a couple of MF wash mitts and iron and tar removers, a nice tyre and trim dressings will be a decent start to begin an arsenal.
Great job... Keep it up...
Another awesome job Sandro. Well done mate. When you make your 1:10 solution, is it about 50ml product to 450ml water? Cheers
Thanks mate, and yes that’s right, 50ml to 450ml or 500ml is about right.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thanks heaps. 💪🏼🙂
a beauty
Where is the more than one thumbs up button? Another great, informative video Sandro. Thanks! Looking forward to next part(s).
What is your opinion on Carpro Trix (iron and tar remover in one) ? I do not see you use it.
Thanks mate, and I have used Tr.ix in some older videos, but I guess the main reason I use those products separately is that tar deposits are usually just on the lower panels and fallout is usually more prominent on the horizontal panels, so I prefer to spot treat as needed.
This is the first video that I just found now and watched from you and I have to let you know that I really enjoyed it! Proper and amazing work and video!!! 👏🏻🤩👍🏻
Really great to hear, thank you!
Hello Hypnotizin 🙋♂️
@@ilikechickensausages2075 - Hello Dear Friend, it’s nice to see you! 🤩🤜🏻💥🤛🏻😉
@@HypnotizinDetailz And you! 😁
Great video man! I love your process and how you take such a thorough approach. I am curious though. What do you charge for something like this? If it took as long as you say then that must be a big price tag for decon.
Thanks and it varies a lot but most of my details including decon, correction and coating start at $2K and go up from there.
Sandro! I take care of one of these monthly. The owner is a neighbor of mine, and they only put on a few hundred KM every couple months. (They are retired) but the wheels almost always tend to be caked with brake dust and the vehicle almost always has fallout. It must be a BMW thing.
I daily drive my kia and wheels need cleaning about once every 3 months just a light coating of brake dust
@@leslie7922 its absolutely mind blowing, every month all the crevices in and around the wheels are almost always that burnt brake dust color. It is a beautiful SUV otherwise. Crafted very well.
I’d say that in my experience European cars always produce way more brake dust than their Japanese and other car maker counterparts! I definitely notice this on my own cars as well!
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing agreed. My 1989 500SEL Mercedes always had brake dust.
Hell yea... i don't need sleep now!!! lol
Sleeps overrated 🙂
There's a good chance that I welded the underbody of this sav.
Hi Sandro! Great vid as always! I'm having issues to make my snow foam 'work'... I know where I live there's medium hard water. How can I fix this? It is too runny and runs off too quickly. Thnx man.
Thanks man, and there’s a few things that can help. As you mentioned hard water will kill suds, so a deionised water system is one solution and they are getting much more affordable. Another thing that will make a significant difference is your pressure washer - I higher PSI matched to a higher LPM water flow can do wonders. Lastly the foam Lance/cannon itself can also have have a big impact - they are not all created equal.
Great job Sandro. This car is exactly like mine - same wheels, color, everything - so I was definitely taking notes on this one. Never thought to lift up the tailgate plastic to clean under there!
I was always weary about using a brush on painted surfaces because I thought it could cause marring. Not an issue?
Great to hear mate, hope it helps!
All the pre-soak chemical and foam treatments together with pressure rinsing and blasting the water into those door jamb openings should help remove all the looser dirt first so that the brushing us less aggressive, but a good feathered end brush also helps. Alternatively you can certainly also use the Tornador air tool or even a steamer - I’ve shown that on a few past videos.
Great vid! Did you rinse after the tar removal? Just curious since im decon washing my car soon. Thanks!
Thank and yes
I have a new (used) X5 and I can tell the previous owner took it through a regular car wash. It has so many scratches! My previous car was an X3 and it took me all day to wash it. Watching all your detail work, I’m wondering how long it takes you to wash an X5? As a non professional, it will take me twice as long and it might be better for me to have a professional clean it and I can do maintenance washes. Your video’s are very relaxing.
If it’s just a maintenance wash (rather than a more intensive periodic decontamination wash/clean which would be done once or twice a year) I’d say it would take 60-90mins to give a larger SUV a good weekly/fortnightly wash.
The key is to do a decontamination wash and strip the car back before adding a wax, sealant or coating periodically, so that weekly maintenance wash are much easier to perform.
Thanks mate, really nice to hear you’ve been enjoying the videos.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Looks like I will be shopping for some more products for this year. I usually use AmmoNY, but I want to try some Gyeon as well. Thank you for the reply.
Vogliamo vedere anche l’interno 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Hi Sandro! I keep coming back to your videos!! A question about, in your case NV Purify, chemical decon. Can you apply the same technique with BugOut by CarPro, or any another brand? I find the suggested dwell time of 30 sec ineffective in most cases... you talk about several minutes!
Dwell times will vary a lot between certain products and environments as will safely and effectiveness. I did quite a bit testing with Purify before adapting this technique and in truth that’s the only way your going to know for certain if BugOut will fair the same. What I can say is that extended dwell times do generally increase effectiveness but it’s chemicals drying on the surface that’s almost always the cause of chemical stains/etchings. So if you can keep it from drying and sitting longer it’s usually an increased result and safe, but there are exceptions which is why testing is important.
Great job as usual! I didn’t see you directly rinse the door jambs after brushing with the soap. Was pressure rinsing through the seams sufficient?
Thanks mate and yes, like I mentioned in the video if you intentionally blast water into the jamb areas with a good technique it works well to flush them out.
I have a question, isn't the grill parts and the plastic around the mirror and inside the gas cap area and all that pretty sturdy - the brush you were using looked pretty soft, but couldn't they actually take a stiffer brush if they were grimy?
You could potentially use something a touch stiffer but I wouldn’t use an overly aggressive brush. It’s best to let the detergents and chemicals break down that dirt and grime and just use the brush to work them in. You can also use degreasers, tar and mineral spot removers to help if need be.
Great video. How are you Sandro? I've seen a few draconian videos of people in Australia being manhandled for not complying with mask mandates... Pretty crazy.
Thanks mate, I’m well as can be in these times and hope you and your family are in good health!
Regardless of what side of the political or moral aisle you’re on or whether you support this strong government regulation/enforcement or not, there’s no denying that Australia’s powers that be are ruling with extreme force over its people with extreme consequences for anyone that doesn’t comply.
Eagerly awaiting part two, I decided to watch this one for a third time!! Thanks for another informative video. Quick question, I am using CarPro Trix but am a bit reluctant to use it on my car which has a lot of black plastic trim (e.g. side skirts). Do I have anything to worry about? I’m worried about the Tar remover staining the trim!!
Part 2 isn’t far off!
Tar removers and the content in Tr.ix can in more rare cases cause some hazing on clear plastics and sensitive piano plastics, so you have some justification in being cautious there. If it does happen, usually a light polish will restore the finish quite well, but it is a little extra work that’s annoying to have to if that happens.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Cheers!!! Can’t wait
Your channel is amazing! 😍
You never use clay bar, is it too old school or other reason? 🤔
Appreciate that, and it wasn’t used because there was no need for claying. Every process needs to have a reason and outcomes and on this particular vehicle there was no reason to clay based on my inspection during the process.
Hi Sandro, what do you mean by "neat"?
For example, you have CarPro TarX (neat). Does it mean undilluted? (I vaguely remember this from your other videos)
Also, QQ - what did machine are you using for the final drying stage?
Yes, neat just means using it straight or undiluted and I’m using the metrovac vac n blo pro for drying 🙂
Nice video! Any reason not to use Purify again vs Immolube during the clay part?
Thanks and just because I didn’t need to re-use Purify again at that stage and ImmoLube is more cost effective and easier to rinse off.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing appreciate the response, makes sense.. cheers!
Uncle Sandro, this is off topic but I wonder does Carpro Essence Plus still can be used as Graphene coating maintenance? Thank you & GBU
It’s best to take recommendations from the coating’s manufacturer, but as far as I can tell most graphene coatings still contain a majority of SiO2 content, so I would think that you can really treat and maintain them as you would any ceramic coating.
Big girl is getting some loving 💪=👌=💰=😁
Hi Sandro, great video love it. Just a quick question. I believe that you used the iron decon before even the initial rinse. If the paint is slightly on the warmer side (body is hot from the sun) is there anything that I should take note of? Thanks
If you’re outdoors and working on a hot/warm vehicle, I’d recommend firstly rinsing the car down to drop its temperature and the water sitting on the paint should also extend the dwelling time of your chemical. The main thing to avoid allowing the chemical fully dry on the surface, so lowering the surface temperature and leaving a little water on it will greatly help you extend the dwell time in that case.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you for the advice
Great video Sandro!
Quick question, would NV Lustre work well over a paste sealant?
Thanks mate, and Lustre generally works well over or even under most other sealants as it has a great bonding ability. Every now and then it my not play well with certain waxes sealants and coatings but that’s more of an exception.
Hey mate. Saw that after you apply the iron remover you didn’t rinse it off and straight foam up the whole car. Is it safe to do that? Because I ever mix iron remover and soft 99 shampoo it turns out to become jelly
Not all products are the same so there may be instances where there don’t mesh well together, but these products used in sequence have worked very well for me.
Nice video 👍
What wash pad is that ? The one you list in the description i Carpro Dabdab, but this one is different.
Thanks and it’s the Aquatouch Muscles wash mitt, here’s a link if you want to have a look: www.waxit.com.au/products/aquatouch-muscles?ref=1NNwBEgP4yO4AX
@@CarCraftAutoDetailingOK thanks 👍
Also, what do you do when the tar/grime doesn't come off from the tar cleaner, when it's really abusively baked on or whatever?
It hit it a few times with the chemical and wipe of, then try clay (more aggressive types of clay can help remove more stubborn particles) then compounding is the next thing to try, you can also gently and precisely use a little scraper for larger isolated particles and last but not least would be sanding.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing So that's the first time I've heard one of the detail pros talk about using a compound to actually clean stains and grime... I've only seen it done with super decontaminated paint correction.. good to know that's an option. Might be worth a video.
How many miles on that car? That would help in knowing how that fallout could have happened.
I honestly can’t remember but it wasn’t anything too crazy for an 18mth old vehicle as I would have remembered that.
Hey Sandro, can I ask why you, 1; diluted the Immolube, is it to just get more out of the bottle and 2; didn't use Purify as the clay lube?
Immolube is always diluted from 1:10 (heavy clay) through 1:20 (light clay), and it's a pure lube (free from other chemicals). From the sequence of work he had already chemically decontaminated with Purify during the pre-wash, so once it was decided some clay was required better to use a pure lube as opposed to breaking out the Purify again.
Yes that’s pretty much spot on @Techno13.
Hey Sandro
Tried ringing the web site mobile to arrange a coating job
What is the best way to get in touch
Regards
Rob
The email, FB or IG links in the about page of this channel, thanks mate.
Really like this video, mainly because the condition of this car really match what I am experiencing with my own.
Only down side is to constantly looking at that tumour like BMW grill ...... Man , it's so ugly.
May I know which camera you are using?
Back then I think it was a combination of a GoPro and a Canon 80D
Hi Sandro, long time viewer and would really appreciate some advice as I'm stumped, today at the race track a car in front covered me in a nice oily mist as something blew covering the whole front of my car... what's the best method/product's (ideally something retail based) to remove the oily contamination, ideally without being too harsh?
Wax and grease remover, you can purchase it in aerosol spray and use a soft microfiber to wipe away the residue just go gentle .. you can use as much product as you like it won't hurt any paint or plastic finishes but it will possibly remove any waxes or detail sprays you have on yout car..
Start with a good intensive pre-soak and hand wash. On a retail level something like Clemtech CT18 could work well as both a ore-soak foam and then in your wash bucket, otherwise just whatever decent strip car wash detergent you can find. The thing is that not all road grease and contamination is the same so you’ll just have see what breaks it down and just the strip car wash could do it. Otherwise as @PaulReichelt mentioned, you could use a prepsol or wax and grease remover, or a light dilution of APC or Degreaser such as Meguiar’s. If all else fails, a Tar and adhesive remover used like I did in this video should really do the job.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing and @PaulReichelt - Thank you both for the prompt replies and advice, really appreciated. Perfect, I already have some CT18 on hand for the mountain bike and will give that a go tomorrow - keen to get it off ASAP and will start there as advised. Will do a wax remover and and re-seal in due course - just want to get it off safely and effectively now.
sounds like that couple need to get their priorities straight and get a toyota corolla instead
Would've been faster to take the wheels off and do them a pair at a time.
Is it safe to use purify on ceramic coated vehicles?
Yes, just don’t clay with it or allow it to dry on the surface - as per most decontamination chemicals
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thanks for your help 😊
1st
🥇
Netsword
People doesn’t take care of their vehicles.