Here's Why Connecting Your Battery Like This Will Destroy Your Car
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- čas přidán 21. 01. 2024
- Here's Why Connecting Your Battery Like This Will Destroy Your Car, DIY life hacks and car repair with Scotty Kilmer. Car life hacks. How to make car battery last longer. Car battery maintenance. How to keep car battery charged and running for years. Car hacks that will save you hundreds in car battery replacement. 5 minute life hacks to make your car battery run as long as possible. Car maintenance tips. 5 minute hacks. Car Advice. DIY car repair with Scotty Kilmer, an auto mechanic for the last 56 years.
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I bought a new Ford pickup in 95
It had bad valve seals out of the factory
The dealer who did the repair dropped the head, broke the water pump, stripped threads for throttle body in the plenum among other things.
They ruined my new truck
😊
That's why I always change my own batteries. I don't make mistakes like leaving the terminals loose. I also take them off and clean them periodically. That is also the first thing I check when I have electrical problems. I learned that in the 70's.
Dont be telling people those bolts need to be supper tight cause i see people have over tightened them many times & ether breaking or streching the clamps. They just need to be clean, snug but not loose ether. Thanks for all you do to help people.
When changing the battery connection, remove negative first, install positive first. This way if you're tool touches ground while on the terminal there is no short.
Those Odyssey batteries have low cold cranking amps and are ridiculously high priced/ I've been using Walmart batteries for decades and I highly recommend them. My latest three-year Walmart battery by Johnson Controls is closing in on year 7 of its life. Purchased in Oct 2017. (Today is January 22, 2024) Still cranking good and doesn't falter in extremely cold weather. Cost $80.00. I think that's a darn good deal.
My Odyssey is 12 years old. I live in Colorado. I'm not a cheap bastard either.
I have the same battery bought the same year and run a small aftermarket stereo system just a couple hundred watts battery still seems good .
Very extremely good deal. I believe they are deliberately lowering the quality of lead-acid batteries so they die sooner than they used to. Everyone has stories like yours, they used X battery that was so good it lasted 5/6/7 years. The last battery I bought for my Camry lasted a little over 2 years. And that's just ridiculous. ESPECIALLY when I always kept the water level up , always used distilled ditto, and always kept the terminals clean and tight.
Yup Wallmart Everstart all the way, I had one last over 8 years..
Do they use those in the ambulance that would come to get your family member if they need one?@@seatime674
Scotty - The Peoples Mechanic - nothing gives me more comfort than knowing that our boy Scotty is there to coach us all on some regular stuff that we might otherwise not know about. But Scotty - please - more hand waving please. We need more! Bring it!
😂😂😂
Only honest people admit their mistakes or when they are wrong.. That's why I trust Scotty's advice
Everybody, and I mean EVERYBODY has an agenda or a bias, count on it. Now if you have an agenda/bias are you really honest?
Quote: "Hey, things wiggle over time. That's one of the big problems with fully electric cars, you can have all kinds of problems".
I'm a petrol head BTW, however - I don't mind calling out something when I see hear it.
1. ICE cars have orders of magnitude more moving parts than EVs.
2. ICE cars produce orders of magnitude more vibration than EVs.
3. ICE cars also have electrical systems, (that still use electric windows/door closing/sunroof etc), and given the CAN bus communication that we use these days there is not the difference in quantity of electrical connections that you think there is.
Think about those three statements when you now read back over what Scotty said.
So what, ev cars move frictionless down the road floating above a layer of air or something??? Even ev cars have to endure shaking, vibration, poor road conditions, potholes etc, plus, ev cars are HEAVIER, meaning every impact takes that much more life off all the small components, connectors, fasteners, bushings even, etc etc. don't see how scotty can have an agenda about this if he's calling out what he sees in reality.@@gottliebdee263
I wouldn't
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken
Yes, tight is good. I would have first removed the cable end and used a battery post brush on the ends and posts. Tight is good. Clean and tight is better !
I told her that and she slapped me
Lol@@mehmedii7594
My high school tech school instructor, a retired Coast Guard Petty Officer, repeated daily that "90% of all electrical problems are loose or dirty connections", the solution he hammered into our brains > " CLEAN AND TIGHT!!". 20yrs later at thr end of my mechanic career, that advice proved itself repeatedly.
Also remember that just as the negative battery terminal connection needs to be clean and tight, the other end of the ground cable to the engine and/or chasis also needs to be clean and tight.
@@289hipo As the old saying goes Cleanliness is next to godliness. Clean and tight makes everything tight..
Simple but important stuff. Thanks, Scotty. I once blew a head gasket because I replaced a hose and used a Harbor Freight hose clamp. (They slip teeth.) Neglecting details or going too frugal can cost big bucks.
OMG that's truly the worst horror story of an HF crap-product I ever heard - we all learn one way or another how far to trust any harbor freight item, they are like flashbulbs of the tool world. But when you need something like a crankshaft puller and you know you'll only need it once, the temptation can be impossible to resist. But I always knew my personal mantra at HF "do not buy any item with one or more moving parts!" I had no idea that applied to a simple hose clamp...
Thus we learn the difference between frugal and cheap
While you are checking the clamps on the battery, also check the other end of the cables, particularly the ground to the body and the ground to the engine. I've seen lots of flaky and intermittent things happen with loose or corroded grounds.
I had the same trouble with a loose terminal. Jump starting worked like a charm, and made me think it was a bad battery, until the next time I went to jump it I forgot to turn on the power to the emergency jumper and it still started! Man, it feels good when the universe shows you the REAL problem before you spend money.
Yep - faulty ground connections can result in all sorts of weird things going on. One of my aunts has an old Chevy Cobalt and it started acting like it was possessed - turning on and off lights, activating door locks and windows and other odd ball behaviours. The ground wires had corroded off (so that is another thing to check for - not just tight connections, but make sure the ground wire actually grounds). Once a new ground wire was on, the car returned to normal.
Really enjoyed your video. It was a good thing you didn't see the loose battery terminal at the first, or we wouldn't have gotten all the additional information.
That engine sounded like a lawnmower with a bad connecting rod. 😆
Yeah, Scotty has another problem now! Loud knocking noise.
I always wondered about the secret marvels of Korean engineering, now I think I know the answer.
I didn’t think it was going to make 3,000 rpm
It sounds like the owner is storing spare nuts and bolts in the sump 😂
It's a Subaru 😂
You always got to tighten your battery cables. Also if you disconnect your battery terminals never leave the negative battery cable on by itself. Always disconnect the negative wire first then the positive. When you connect your battery 🔋 terminals always connect the positive terminal first.
I own a 2012 Toyota Yaris I bought new. When the original battery started to fail it would still start the car fine but weird electrical things started happening like the auto door locks would randomly lock and unlock while driving. I bought a battery tester and it said to replace the battery. I did and that fixed the issues. Had I not learned this from watching these videos I would be going down one of those rabbit holes Scotty mentioned thinking I had a short or something.
Hey Scotty, My old mechanic father in law would take a goofy car and remore a termal connection. Then he would shine the battery and the inside of the terminal with a little plumber's emeroy cloth. Then he'd do the other terminal. This made sure the terminals were both very clean and tight. Then he'd look at other possible problems.
With many modern types of battery terminal connectors, caution should be used when abrasives are considered. Some connectors have a plating made of silver or zinc material over copper conductor and rubbing that plating off can expose the material underneath, and that will greatly accelerate the corrosion process. Corrosion from battery vapors and even electrolysis in some cases. Toyota has excellent connection terminals that may seem flimsy but are made for their environment. Don't over torque and use a terminal coating for long life.-opinion
Thanks Scotty. I've found that hitching up a smart charger (like CTECK ) to a regular battery overnight at around its midlife- about 2-21/2 years- will increase its life by at least a year.
My 2011 Honda element had a check engine light for the TPMS sensor. I unknowingly cleaned the ground and battery terminal doing a transmission fluid job solved the issue! either dirty ground right next to the battery or lose battery connection caused this issue! Thank you Scotty for your transparency its truly a difficult job diagnosing modern cars!
I remember when all you needed to check a battery and alternator was a test light and analog ohm meter. Nothing was digital back then. It was a simple world back then. Thank you Scotty for all you do for us. Really enjoy your videos.
Flukes have been around since the 80’s. Has it been 50 years since you worked on cars?
@skeezix8156 Have been working on cars since the 60's. Yes, I am old. Remember when they first installed baby computers in cars, disk brakes came out, and DVOM's replaced analog volt ohm meters.
@@roadk88 I didn’t start til the late 80’s. Was in the Air Force working on ground equipment then moved into buses. Not a lot of money back then but it is now since public schools tried to herd all the kids to college. There’s no tradesman left. They’re slowly trying to move us from diesel-electric to all electric. The infrastructure isn’t in place though
Ohm meter still works. Maybe slower. Volt ohm meter doesn't care if its digital or analog circuit. You have to read schematics and test until you find the electrical gremlins. Sometimes its just worn out wiring grinding and shorting out. Just a matter of being tenacious with inspection.
Good advice Mr Kilmer. Thank you. BTW, dirty or corroded terminals and connectors can also cause various problems with vehicle electronics. Keep ‘em clean and secure folks!
I purchased a 5-year truck battery in 2009, the day the OEM (2005) battery died.
Nearly fifteen years later, the battery I purchased in 2009 continues to perform as advertised.
Your videos are worth watching for the sheer entertainment value - thanks!
"I, the Great Scotty, cannot see electricity!"
Yes, even Scotty can't see electricity, because as we all know, Electrical Pixies are invisible.
I thot Scotty WAS an electrical pixie! 😅
What a funny guy! Go Scotty!
Even I, "The Great Scottie" won't fork out $5,000 to buy a scanner. 😂😂😂
As an EE for over 40 years....
I agree with everything you said, but I can't figure out how a loose connection on the battery terminal can cause a high voltage when starting. High current yes, high voltage no. On the other hand I can easily see a high voltage when the car is running at idle because the alternator will be supplying a higher voltage through the regulator because the loose battery cable is causing an undue voltage drop, which it's sensing.
Just my two cents....
Hey Scottie, do you conduct an orchestra in your spare time?
I'll bet his arms are tired at the end of the day.
He once got his arms going too fast and levitated.
It pays to be informed and reminded. Thanks 😊
or you can just check for loose battery connections.
Make sure the battery terminals are sung, you don’t want to absolutely crank them down because they’ll break if you over-tighten them. I made that mistake once.
It depends what they are made of. Lead connectors can easily break (or strip out, if side terminals). My Nissan Altima has some other type of metal (maybe copper coated steel?) where tightening then good won't break them (at least not as easily). They look similar to the terminals shown on the car in this video.
I have been getting my car batteries for my 2005 Mercury Grand Marquis LS at Costco which is an Interstate. I ran it for 4 years before it started off gassing and I just bought a new battery last week.
Sure but, If the connection to battery tester is not really good; You will get a lower than expected battery life reading.
I am very impressed with your scanner.
Scotty’s expertise shining brightly, as always. You can’t beat good ol’ fashioned mechaniking, forgoing newfangled do-daddies and thingamajigs like digital multi-yarders (over here we call them multi-meters) and the like. Go, Scotty…
Scotty, you are the BEST!!! I have never learned and LAUGHED so much over the years of watching your videos! I cannot thank you enough for your knowledge in auto mechanics and your crazy and UNMATCHED HUMOR!!
Tight and clean too!
Good on ya Scotty. Good timing.
This is real. I connected my battery like that and my car was destroyed. Total loss. Had to argue with the insurance company about it, but they wound up replacing the car. True story.
lesson learnd
I believe you. Computer equipment does not like erratic power. That’s why after every oil change when I start checking the fluids. I also give the battery terminals a good shake just to make sure they’re tight.
Ok@@jamescaron6465
What did you tell insurance company. Just wondering.
Insurance company said"our policy XYZ, you signed. .. blah blah blah, tryna scam a customer out of coverage" facts@@Mr1bigsal
Funny that you would be talking about battery connections today because I LITERALLY just changed the connectors on my car battery yesterday. It was one of those crappy copper bendy things that the fastener bolt can just pop out of if it bends haha. Car starts no problem now.
Perhaps the most positive example of being screwed :)
Good advise. Also check other bolts like wheel lugs, small screws and nuts around the car.
I didn't see in this video what the subject was about. Don't connect battery HOW to not destroy it. Saw good info on loose cables though! Thanks Scotty, you're the best with this stuff.
I use the largest battery Optima makes in my Honda to offset the cost with longevity. My last Optima lasted through 10 years, 5 cars, and 3 deep discharges. I even changed the connectors on a car just use the same one.
You put a wrench on the + while the neg was connected. I am glad you did not slip.
Thank you And God bless you Brother Scott 🙏
You are the GREAT SOTTY! Love your videos
Useful information, thanks!
Always check terminals FIRST....
they gotta be a little loose right?
@@utraklol
. *"NO"* ❗️⚡️❗️
@@utrak Screws are always a lil loose in our civilization...
The first thing I check is the battery voltages on the battery terminals themselves. Ignition off, on, start and engine running. Then on the connector part on top of the terminals while after the engine is running to see voltage amount. Loose connections are not good and open connections are harmful. Scott is spot on with the wacky things that happen with erratic and low voltage conditions. Torque is important. Also too much tightening torque can destroy som
e connectors. Use smaller wrenches to prevent overtightening, but insure they are tight.
I love my five thousand dollar scanner so much, I put it under the blanket with me.
L😂L
That's your iPad bromeoistrex😂
I was going to ask to borrow it until you mentioned this.
@@kenhnsy 👍You’ll have to borrow my blanket, also.
If it was the Snap-on Zeus, it might give you a manual Reciprocating stimulation, under said blanket. For the price it should. LOL
It is these type of videos why i watch each and every one. Thanks Scotty. DVD:)
A great meter from an Ace Mechanic. Love this gentleman!
That engine sounds terrible! Is there any oil in it?
It's a Subaru. That's normal. 😂
Scotty I agree you need to check for tightness, but also check for corrosion. Over the years I have found that the acid batteries with top posts seem to corrode with a thin layer of a dark oxidation layer. If I'm checking battery terminal connections I generally pull wires off and clean posts and terminals with wire brush or terminal cleaning tool. Thanks for your videos. A lot of good info put out by you that can save people a lot of money
Hi user, I agree! Also check the Earth bond back to the chassis. A thousand things could appear faulty or erratic if the Earth bond is not good! LesC.
Been a while since Scotty has been in my CZcams algorithm. Welcome back!!!
Tree looks awsome great job
Hey Scotty, huge fan! A tip for the slider on the battery tester... Slide your finger to close to the right number, then roll it to get accuracy.
Started using marine battery in my odyssey and have used it in prolonged sub zero temps with no problems, they're cheaper plus they don't sulphate up and die if you drain them by accident unlike regular wet cell batteries.
That tool is incredible.
Scotty, it could be what I experienced dirty terminals. I drove through the night and next day my car didn’t start. I live near the beach and the terminal didn’t have any acid build up. I guy in the parking lot said it was dirty terminals and he was right. We cleaned them and car started right up.
Good advice as always
Thank you Great Scotty
I bought an Optima battery for my Dodge Ram pickup. The first battery failed before a year passed. Since it was still under warranty, they prorated the cost and gave me a replacement. I just paid the difference between that amount and the cost of the new battery. I've had the second battery for at least 10 years, and it still works great. I'm amazed, because I don't drive the Ram very much (around 3,000 miles a year), and the last several years, it's been parked outside in the cold over winter with the battery still intact. I put the charger on it only a few times over the years. I really need to find the receipt, so I know for sure how many years it lasts.
I went through two optima batteries, took both back under warranty and Four Wheel Parts gave me an Odessey and no problems!
Great video thanks
Brilliant as ever - life long sub here
Several years ago, I bought a new Yellow Optima battery and it was the worst battery I ever bought. It wouldn't keep a charge if the car sat for over two days, no matter how far I drove it to charge it. I took it back to Advance Auto and got a full refund. Then I did some research. I found that Optima batteries were very good until the original company was bought by another one. Quality control plummeted and the complaints were rampant. Never again.
Good video, good to clean connections if dirty .
Love this guy a lot smiles.
Hey, Scotty! I have an Optima battery in my Dakota Quad cab, and I bought it 7 years ago. I go camping and run the stereo and several small lights for hours. I've never had a battery this reliable before. Your mileage may vary🏁
Scotty- you’re a character. I just subscribed.
Scotty i love your channel. Every time I watch your videos it reminds me of the old joke about the Italian Mother......if she somehow lost her hands she wouldn't be able to talk. Keep'em coming
an important thing to remember, is to give your battery a good regular charge via a multi stage charger, car batteries are made to supply huge inrush current, but have very low capacity, so if the battery is not fully charged every so often, over time, it gets discharged more and more little by little, degrading the life of the battery.
regular full over night charging will keep your battery in super health condition and it'll last many years longer than normal.
I wired in some Anderson's power pole connectors so I can quick connect the charger easily if I've not been traveling much.
THANK YOU for this good tip. I never heard this before, not even from battery company reps, and I spent 30 years in fleet work. But that seems to make a lot of sense.
I keep my Lexus LS460 garaged with a trickle charger going. Because if any car is a power hog even when turned off, its a big Lexus. I tried numerous trickle chargers, some were hard to make work and some did not work at all, a fact that was only revealed when my general mistrust of such devices made me check the voltage during a cycle (the battery was getting no voltage but the charger showed a green light for it anyway!)
Ultimately I found the simple low-cost trickle charger from Harbor freight was the ideal choice. Kept my late Mom's mercedes hooked up to one for years until I sold the car. It worked flawlessly all that time.
there is a reason why fire trucks have charging ports on the outside that automatically disconnect when they drive off, they are always connected to the charger when not in use.
@@windhelmguard5295 who on earth would even know that? lol
@@John-gm8ty a fire fighter would.
@@windhelmguard5295 -dead pan stare- reaLLLLy? who'da have guessed? ~sarcasm-
This is why I love you your video sir
How to remember the Pos & Neg connection sequence
When you take a battery out of the car your are Minusing weight so take the Neg off first.
When you put a battery back in the car your are Adding weight so put the Pos on first.
Now you can't forget
Awesome video
Scotty is the best!
I've got a nerve problem and can't bear the excited way Scotty talks. But I switch on the subtitles and mute audio, this way I can watch the videoclip, too. ✌
Nice1..Scotty & thank u
You’re the best Scotty!
I wonder if Scotty has ever tried conducting an orchestra? Would be cool to see what they played!
That battery has a statement on its top that specifies the desired charging voltage,the voltage desired according to that label is slightly higher than most cars' electrical systems run/charge at. If I remember the battery wants about 14.4 to 14.7 volts at specified temperature (more than that will damage it but less will cause it to gradually run undercharged and sulfating) most cars run around 13.8 - 14 volts or so which is probably what most batteries are supposed to charge at
Always tackle a problem at the cheapest point. Tightening the connection doesn't get much cheaper than that.
Scotty is pretty agitated today... Wondering if his terminals are loose?
Over the decades I have found most common car problems have simple solutions. Trust your sensors. Search and find the true cause for the code. I use only a $20 scan tool, then search for and explore all possible causes. In the last 20 years I've had 10 vehicles, both new and well used, and only replaced two faulty sensors and three bad batteries. Pay attention and be diligent with maintenance. Now I'm going to check and clean up my battery connections.
I think maybe if you touch the CCA number box, you will get a number pad to enter whatever CCA number you want.
The battery started out as an Optima, then converted into a Oddesy somehow. Its like magic
An Optimoddesy?
Optima are dry cell beside that
Yep. Most folks don't realize how critical the electrical system is and that most vehicle malfunctions are relatively simple poor electrical connections - or shorted (causing blown fuses) as in the classic O2 sensor wiring shorted against a hot exhaust pipe! Periodically check all electrical grounds and associated wiring - frame to body, body to engine, battery to engine, etc, and especially the battery connections. Weird white-green fuzz on the battery posts means it's time to clean the battery posts and clamps! If your car is old and rusty like my '03 Exploder you WILL have at the very least one or two rusty grounding connections. Corrosion seeps in and since most cars have only a 12V system, the electricity starts to have increasing resistance to flow and difficulty pushing through this layer of crud and electrical dysfunction starts. Disconnect, sand till connection points are shiny and apply Dielectric Grease to ALL surfaces before reassembly. I put that sh*t on everything.
It's funny I came across this Video. I'm pretty sure this happen to my Challenger with a XS power Battery. All seems good now.
The ole loose battery terminal! Good advice to check tightness first. Just happened to me. Dead car in front of a Dunkin’ Donuts, ready to jump and found out first it was just a loose clamp.
If you have manual transmission, you can start the engine even with an old battery.
if you have a manual transmission, you can start the engine with a dead battery, as long as your alternator works.
Love Scotty clothing layering! Denim over denim
The only man alive who can pull it off.
@@marisalchimovics1395 maybe not the only one, but it does take a level of confidence that few possess.
Scotty with another shockingly good video.😅
Scotty is a combo of Dennis Hopper, Joe Pesci and Christopher Walken. Right on! 😎
Very exciting, l loved you doing this
I think you need to get out more , just a suggestion !!!.
I'm going to check my battery terminals for tightness right now!
Thanks for letting me know that
A good digital volt meter will work just as well for testing battery and charging too.
Yup and way cheaper.
Nope, have to check it under load
For a quick and cursory check of a lead-acid battery, yep its what I usually go by. And if you're like most people who aren't truly destitute we just change out the battery if it has X years and months on it and/or it's acting dodgy, or needs a jump twice, or we decided it looks ugly and would prefer a pretty new one etc. But it seems like battery makers have mastered the art of making a battery that simply times out after 2 to 3 years, those stories we all used to have of OEM battery that lasted 6/7/10 years are a thing of the past.
I believe when tech gets a little TOO advanced the people making such items, merely weaponize the tech against us by designing an expiration date into everything they can: long enough to make it out of warranty, but no longer! I owned a no-name big screen TV and I bought a 3 year extended warranty. The TV lasted 3 years and 3 weeks then died. Next one did the same thing. Most manufacturers make and sell crap that times out, then changes the name of their brand, and just sells us another.
Lead & Battery Terminals:
Thank you for the tip about making sure connections are tight!
One concern I have is if battery posts and clamps are really made of lead, when people remove the corrosion, they may be releasing lots of small lead particles. Since lead is toxic, that may not be the best thing.
One solution would be if manufacturers coated the outer surface of the posts and clamps with a non-corrosive metal that does not contain lead.
Thank you sir!!!!
What do you think of the Nissan exterra off road stick shift 4X4 no problems at 180000 miles : keeper or sell ?