Thanks for showing that video . I am going to us my old wiring harness. For my 5.3 LS project . Not going to buy a new harness. I think if I take my time it will work for me . Thanks 👌
Very nice. I like the setup in the Chevelle. I really like that relay/fuse box. I was looking at something similar but the one I am looking at is only 6 relays. That one has more. I'm working on my first swap. I just started a couple months ago. I am in the save and research faze. I have already started purchasing small things that go to my car for the swap like conversion mounts and such so when I really take off with it I don't have so many little things to remember to buy lol. I started a list so I won't forget. Thank you for the content.
I had an 80 Pontiac that started blowing a fuse to the AC every now and then. I looked and looked for the problem and finally traced it to a screw in the Cowl that had penetrated the harness. One of those gremlins I almost gave up on.
I'm new sub here. I watched ur video & really enjoyed it so thanks. I like how u explain everything. Will be watching more. Working on my frist LS swap same harness w/ 6.0 4L80E
One thing I never got into with the video but I’ll say it’s pretty nice to have is you should set up a neutral safety switch. On the shifter side of the 4L60e there’s a four pin switch that will tell you when you’re in Park, Neutral and Reverse. Wire it accordingly and you can have the starter only work with it in Park or Neutral. I did not do that with my first swap and it’s on my list to go back and fix that. I did it on my second swap and it’s pretty sweet. I haven’t promoted it here yet but there’s a ton of videos I did of my second swap on BuildAnother68Chevelle. Good luck
Thanks! That’s exactly how I approached mine. I found that the marine industry offers a lot of relay fuse blocks that work really well. The one I keep going to comes from an outfit in Australia so it takes a couple weeks but the 10 fuse/relay block is kinda perfect. Good luck
Are you using all the Holley stuff to make it work? Curious how that driver side header and steering shaft actually go together. When I decided to move back the engine it meant I needed to solve differently for headers but steering got easier. Good luck
On the throttle control module did you have to take out any wires of the plug? I bought a junkyard harness and it has 4 wires that I can’t trace cause they cut them just trying to figure out if I need those or not
That module also controls cruise control and there are wires that I don’t use. They leave the module, don’t go to the throttle body and aren’t black(ground) or pink (12v). Not sure of the count but 3-4 sounds about right.
The donor vehicle supplies all these parts. That’s the best part about getting everything from the same rig. You know it’s all meant to be together. Complete engine with all the sensors, harness, PCM (computer), pedal off the firewall, drive by wire module (DBW), and short harness in between. One thing I’ve had to deal with a couple times was replacing the pedal and was able to get another easily at a wrecking yard and another time I thought I needed a module but that turned out to be a funky harness which taught me to check every single wire for continuity no matter what. Based on your YT name I’m hoping you’re trying to stuff an LS into a 510. I’ve seen it done and was impressive.
There’s no shortage of free info for specific GM set ups on LS1.com. For guaranteed results with great customer support gmtuners.com is awesome. Very reasonable prices as well.
I’m doing a LS swap in my boat and I was wondering once you remove EAP sensors and things that I don’t need is it going to trigger a check engine light and make engine run bad Obviously I’ll still have the OBD 2 connector. Does computer need to be reprogrammed or anything like that?
If the donor computer is fresh out of a vehicle it needs to be worked over by someone who knows what they’re doing. I used GMtuners.com with great success and reasonable pricing. I liked the idea of using the original computer. There’s other ways to go. You can buy stand alone aftermarket computers but then you gotta be smart and patient enough to learn all that. I hear they’re great and might go that way at some point but for easy, I went with original
I’m doing my harness at the moment and I’m taking out the automatic transmission stuff because my LS is going behind a manual transmission My question is, that you mention about a couple wires for the drive by wire throttlebody that needs to be hooked up for the pedal to work properly, I’ve been trying to find information about it, and I can’t find anything about it at all So hopefully you might know and would like to share that knowledge lol Also for the starter wire from the key do I need to go through the pcm or can I bypass the pcm for the starter wire ?
For the drive by wire (DBW), you’ve got the pedal, the throttle body, and the module that brings all the wizardry together. The pedal sends a 10 pin connector harness to the module. Nothing complicated there. The other connector on the module is a 16 pin and it sends wires to the throttle body, has a bunch that need signals to and from the brake light and another one that sees 12v until you step on brake pedal. That’s a fun one to get your head wrapped around. The 16 pin connector also has a pink wire that needs 12v when ignition is on and when cranking and a ground. It’s all out there on LS1tech.com or if you just want to buy a complete pin out and detailed instructions reach out to GMtuners.com On the pcm and the fuel pump, I used the signal from the computer. You could just power it with ignition but I found that the computer will turn it off for you when there’s an issue with the engine. I liked that feature.
I’m 100% with you about “If I’m gonna do all this labor, I want it to work!” On my first swap I was told about a thousand times that all the info was free and in LS1.com. I poked around there and it’s all there. What I didn’t want was to put everything together based on that info and not have some help if it just didn’t start. That’s when I found gmtuners.com. Ryan is professional, knowledgeable, and very reasonably priced. You can send him your computer to reprogram, buy a pin out sheet with explicit instructions for relays/fuses of any part of that. I did both and on my first swap had some issues that he helped me figure out. I had a faulty drive by wire pedal and he guided me through that. Hope this helps
There’s a Vintage Air air conditioning under dash kit installed but Holley makes an accessory drive system that I think is by far the best. Everything is minted off the water pump so no adjustment issues. It comes with alternator, steering pump, and ac compressor if you need so you’re sorta tied to Holley for future parts but 2.5 years in so far no issues.
Thanks for showing that video . I am going to us my old wiring harness. For my 5.3 LS project . Not going to buy a new harness. I think if I take my time it will work for me . Thanks 👌
Thanks. Appreciate the feedback. Good luck and feel free to ask questions.
Very nice. I like the setup in the Chevelle. I really like that relay/fuse box. I was looking at something similar but the one I am looking at is only 6 relays. That one has more. I'm working on my first swap. I just started a couple months ago. I am in the save and research faze. I have already started purchasing small things that go to my car for the swap like conversion mounts and such so when I really take off with it I don't have so many little things to remember to buy lol. I started a list so I won't forget. Thank you for the content.
Wow, your Chevelle is clean!!!
I had an 80 Pontiac that started blowing a fuse to the AC every now and then. I looked and looked for the problem and finally traced it to a screw in the Cowl that had penetrated the harness. One of those gremlins I almost gave up on.
I love hearing about weird trouble shooting. Way to hang in there.
That’s crazy. Well done. It’s those little victories….
I'm new sub here. I watched ur video & really enjoyed it so thanks. I like how u explain everything. Will be watching more. Working on my frist LS swap same harness w/ 6.0 4L80E
One thing I never got into with the video but I’ll say it’s pretty nice to have is you should set up a neutral safety switch.
On the shifter side of the 4L60e there’s a four pin switch that will tell you when you’re in Park, Neutral and Reverse.
Wire it accordingly and you can have the starter only work with it in Park or Neutral.
I did not do that with my first swap and it’s on my list to go back and fix that.
I did it on my second swap and it’s pretty sweet.
I haven’t promoted it here yet but there’s a ton of videos I did of my second swap on
BuildAnother68Chevelle.
Good luck
Thanks! That’s exactly how I approached mine. I found that the marine industry offers a lot of relay fuse blocks that work really well. The one I keep going to comes from an outfit in Australia so it takes a couple weeks but the 10 fuse/relay block is kinda perfect. Good luck
@@buildanotherracecar8150what’s the link to your website?
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 thanks for the interest. I’m basically just posting on CZcams, occasionally TikTok, and have an IG account but not there yet
@@pauldolan1493ok I’m subscribed 🔥🔥🔥
Great video, great information. Anyway we can get a link to the tuner company in Indiana?
Gmtuners.com
I'm working on 5.3/4l60e swapping my 94 S10. I'm going g with a DBC setup so I don't have to worry about modifying a throttle pedal.
Are you using all the Holley stuff to make it work? Curious how that driver side header and steering shaft actually go together. When I decided to move back the engine it meant I needed to solve differently for headers but steering got easier. Good luck
@BuildAnotherRaceCar I'm going with ebay engine mounts and headers
@@shadymaint1 From the original research I did the steering ends up going through one of the header pipes. Good luck
@@buildanotherracecar8150 I've got some LS swap S10 shorty headers. The driver side is really close to the block to make room for the steering shaft.
On the throttle control module did you have to take out any wires of the plug? I bought a junkyard harness and it has 4 wires that I can’t trace cause they cut them just trying to figure out if I need those or not
That module also controls cruise control and there are wires that I don’t use. They leave the module, don’t go to the throttle body and aren’t black(ground) or pink (12v). Not sure of the count but 3-4 sounds about right.
How did you get pedal wire with connector. Did you pull from a separate harness do you have any videos or info on that?
The donor vehicle supplies all these parts. That’s the best part about getting everything from the same rig. You know it’s all meant to be together. Complete engine with all the sensors, harness, PCM (computer), pedal off the firewall, drive by wire module (DBW), and short harness in between.
One thing I’ve had to deal with a couple times was replacing the pedal and was able to get another easily at a wrecking yard and another time I thought I needed a module but that turned out to be a funky harness which taught me to check every single wire for continuity no matter what.
Based on your YT name I’m hoping you’re trying to stuff an LS into a 510. I’ve seen it done and was impressive.
Could you post a copy of the information sheets you have .... working on one myself and would like to verify what others are doing .. Thanks!
There’s no shortage of free info for specific GM set ups on LS1.com.
For guaranteed results with great customer support gmtuners.com is awesome. Very reasonable prices as well.
I’m doing a LS swap in my boat and I was wondering once you remove EAP sensors and things that I don’t need is it going to trigger a check engine light and make engine run bad Obviously I’ll still have the OBD 2 connector. Does computer need to be reprogrammed or anything like that?
If the donor computer is fresh out of a vehicle it needs to be worked over by someone who knows what they’re doing. I used GMtuners.com with great success and reasonable pricing. I liked the idea of using the original computer. There’s other ways to go. You can buy stand alone aftermarket computers but then you gotta be smart and patient enough to learn all that. I hear they’re great and might go that way at some point but for easy, I went with original
I’m doing my harness at the moment and I’m taking out the automatic transmission stuff because my LS is going behind a manual transmission
My question is, that you mention about a couple wires for the drive by wire throttlebody that needs to be hooked up for the pedal to work properly, I’ve been trying to find information about it, and I can’t find anything about it at all
So hopefully you might know and would like to share that knowledge lol
Also for the starter wire from the key do I need to go through the pcm or can I bypass the pcm for the starter wire ?
For the drive by wire (DBW), you’ve got the pedal, the throttle body, and the module that brings all the wizardry together. The pedal sends a 10 pin connector harness to the module. Nothing complicated there. The other connector on the module is a 16 pin and it sends wires to the throttle body, has a bunch that need signals to and from the brake light and another one that sees 12v until you step on brake pedal. That’s a fun one to get your head wrapped around. The 16 pin connector also has a pink wire that needs 12v when ignition is on and when cranking and a ground.
It’s all out there on LS1tech.com or if you just want to buy a complete pin out and detailed instructions reach out to GMtuners.com
On the pcm and the fuel pump, I used the signal from the computer. You could just power it with ignition but I found that the computer will turn it off for you when there’s an issue with the engine. I liked that feature.
@@buildanotherracecar8150
Thanks very much !
You need a bench vice
I have two. This was a sheet of plywood on a table for this job.
Where can I get the pin out for my 05 Silverado? and one manual swap
Gm tuners.com is awesome. Ryan can sell you complete sheets and instructions. You also may find good free info on ls1tech.com
Is there any way I can get information on that.. I'm doing a GM to dodge swap and I want it all to work....
I’m 100% with you about “If I’m gonna do all this labor, I want it to work!”
On my first swap I was told about a thousand times that all the info was free and in LS1.com. I poked around there and it’s all there. What I didn’t want was to put everything together based on that info and not have some help if it just didn’t start. That’s when I found gmtuners.com.
Ryan is professional, knowledgeable, and very reasonably priced. You can send him your computer to reprogram, buy a pin out sheet with explicit instructions for relays/fuses of any part of that. I did both and on my first swap had some issues that he helped me figure out. I had a faulty drive by wire pedal and he guided me through that. Hope this helps
What’s that a/c bracket set up? Any part number?
There’s a Vintage Air air conditioning under dash kit installed but Holley makes an accessory drive system that I think is by far the best. Everything is minted off the water pump so no adjustment issues. It comes with alternator, steering pump, and ac compressor if you need so you’re sorta tied to Holley for future parts but 2.5 years in so far no issues.