I have been watching your videos for about a year. Your skill is amazing and I really enjoy the videos. I like that you post ALL videos, not just the successful repair videos. Thank you!
pull the ic back out and the capacitors, ohm out the 5v rails again just to see if its really a shorted pcb just for curiosity sake. I have used a milliohm meter to find layer shorts before also its like a magic tool.
A tip from when I used to replace SMD ICs every day, if you have a pin vice and a sewing needle you can stroke the needle tip along the pins and with a little experience you'll begin to recognise the sound of a pin that's soldered properly compared to a pin that's not soldered well, when you don't get that 'ping' sound from the needle you can narrow it down to a single pin. A quick pass with hot air, a little extra flux and a little pressure on the top of the chip near the badly soldered pin nine times out of ten will solder it properly. Sad to see a failed repair but sometimes that's the way it goes, thanks for the excellent video.
So, are we to conclude that the PLL chip or maybe the other chipss may not have needed changing ? Before i would go to the trouble of replacing SMD devices, i would know for sure that they need replacing. I would have checked every bypass cap they are easy with a pair of hot tweezers. There is also a new multi function tweezer meter. 73
Right decision in my opinion. We've learned a lot and finally it should rest in peace. I really enjoyed to follow you along in this repair. Many thanks Peter!
Such patience and skill. Way beyond anything I could manage. Modern ham gear are computers with a little bit of radio attached! Bring back the valves(tubes). HI. 73’s Lynton.
My thoughts about the dead short on the +5V supply issue is that when you supplied 1.5 AMP the PCB should have been extremely hot... rapidly advancing to smoke mode. What accounts for the PCB @ 1.5AMP being cold is that your power supply couldn't source the load...A DVM in series would verify this ...as I do not trust a PS metering in a folder back mode. Thank you Peter...All the best !
I know it's hindsight now, but next time before you solder a new chip on check to make sure the short has been removed. That way if it's still there it makes the troubleshooting process easier. When desoldering I also find that a little bit of flux helps remove the components as well. Good videos thanks for posting.
So much Work and Time put in this Work. I am sad for this End. (R.I.P. little PLL) Peter thank you very much for this Video. Vielen Dank für deine Geduld und das Du diese Videos für alle zugänglich machst. Deine Videos sind wie immer absolut Top. 1000 Daumen hoch von mir ;-)
Good thing you checked the 5 volt supply to see if it is grounded. Still love your videos. Sorry to see this radio cannot be repaired. Cheers & 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee & Happy Easter.
Always very much enjoy your videos. Watched this whole PLL series. Nice work as always, and sorry it didn't work out in the end. I was just curious why you didn't remove all of the little capacitors and remove the new chip just to verify it was actually a short in the PCB?? Thanks for the time you put into these incredible videos.
Very nice job and good video! Thanks! I've done a chip swap like these only few times and been fortunate most of the times. It's a job that is every time a challenge of skills. To think that most service centers today don't even bother to change chips as many pins as these have. They just swap the boards... but what a waste of skills and fun! :) I just bought a TS-940S which had a bad tuner but now after analyzing it it also have a bad receiver. Someone has changed 4 or more BPF coils to different models and some JFET's are getting very hot. I tried to get it fixed but as I figured that those coils have been changed I ordered a used RF-unit instead. Smelled like that fix could take a whole year...
My high school German is very rusty - I was also going to say that Chip Quick is another method to consider to help minimize the heat absorption of the components and PCB. Sorry this didn't work out Peter but still an opportunity to see and learn new tips and techniques. WAY back in the day we had folks who would do multi-layer PCB repair but I doubt anyone does that kind of thing anymore. 73 - Dino KL0S
Well as I said my experience with chip quick is compared to hot air not positive as the risk of damaging pads was in my case always higher. So you always pay for one advantage with another disadvantage. Today a damage with hotair to a pcb or a component is very seldom so I think we really can take the risk. Yes this time it didn't work out but I found it important to show that as well as we can't win all the time :^) Thanks for watching and comment Dino! 73
Sorry, Peter! I got that sick feeling when I saw the short after soldering the new chip in. I knew that would be a hard find! Maybe if you get away from it for a while, we will see a Part 4 and the radio working. Good luck. You do superb work! 73...Dan w4mnc
those semi's are made by Mitsubishi electric in japan, loved soldering those semi's keep making more videos i find them very enjoyable ( i watch them even at work while fixing other stuff)
I had exactly the same problem with a Sony CCU some years ago, I removed all the 5volt components in the area where the short was, then I went to a car battery and blown out the shortage. After reinstalling the components and make a few 5volt wires the CCU worked fine again. If your board is already beyond repair you can try 5volt with lots of amps... Keep up your great videos.
Thought I had replied to this Peter. Not sure what happened lol. Sometimes repairs can just go a little too far. In this case I feel like you gave it your best and there is no economical way to repair the board. So many things inside the layers could be bad. yes you could turn the amps up and see if the short heats the board and find it on the thermal cam. But digging into layers is just not the way to go. Thanks for your time on showing us the incredible skills you share my friend. buddy
Yes I agree no way to do it somehow economical. But this story is not at it's end. We are waiting for a new board :-) Thanks for stepping in my friend 73
@12:40 in video pre-chip install, 3rd and 4th pin on left are shorted, however without a schematic I can't tell if this is common grounds. Love the videos!
I saw that solder bridge too! There were a couple tiny solder balls on the right hand side of where the chip was going in. Here is a suggestion get a high rez video camera that will macro focus on a board and connect it to a 40 to 46 inch, 4 K monitor. That will help you see things like tiny shorts .
So sorry for your trouble Peter. This kind of stuff keeps you up at night. Not only do you loose money but at times you have an unhappy customer. 73 W5DN
Geez Peter Well done for not Swearing 👍After all the hard work with that fiddly IC I would have found it very hard not to shout and swear at the chip😆.
Hi Peter, I could feel your disappointment but as you said some times it happens. As you consider the board beyond repair I would definitely remove the new chip and check if the short is still there just for my own feeling I had done the soldering right and to find out what the problem is. Thanks for sharing!
Ok, it is probably nothing but I see a short between #3-4 pads in the upper left at 12:20 after the cleaning, which would be totally invisible after the IC is placed. I have absolutely no experience in this kind of SMD reworks but still I thought I should mention what I saw. Great video as always!
Peter, Thanks for your great videos. I enjoy them immensely. May I suggest that it would be fun to find that short even if it is inside the PCB. I was waiting for you to bring out a FLIR and you didn't disappoint. Maybe if you connected your power supply ground lead to one of the bypass caps that would concentrate the current to a smaller area and your FLIR could detect the heat. As the board is scrap now you could adjust the current until it is detectable. Just a suggestion as the FLIR is a great tool for troubleshooting shorts and some people would find that method interesting to witness. Take Care! Fred
Hi Fred, well have to talk to the OM what we are going to do...1,5A is really a huge amount of current and should so any heat if a cap is involved..Thanks for watching 73
You are running 1.5A at .5 volts. That is only 750mW. That is probably not enough power to heat anything up. You might try cranking the current up again to get the voltage up and thus the power. I see your supply will do 5A. It is the power that will heat a component not just current. Maybe a working part will come available in Ebay. Don't feel badly. You are the man.
Hello, sorry, but that´s not correct. The heating of a conductor only depends on the current density and the current density is the quotient of current divided by wire cross-section. (J= I/A)
By my point of view that PCB need a deep check as recommended from other friends...try to remove the IC and start a new board check. You have saved other radio with worse condition !! :) '73
It might be possible to fabricate a metal square nozzle for the hot air gun to direct and concentrate the heat only over the pins. Might even be able to make one (temporarily) out of aluminium foil.
Usually 1.5 A on a PCB WILL bubble up at the short because of heat inside the layers. It seems to me that the PLL was installed 90⁰ rotated counter clock wise...
I would suggest cutting the pins off the ic, and then desoldering the pins, less heat sinking so is easier to get it off, which reduces the chance of damage.
Hi Peter. So sorry that you were not able to effect a repair. I do have a question: does the 5 volt rail run inside the board? If the rail was on the top or bottom of the board, could you cut the traces in the loop around the ic to isolate the short? Please help me understand where the loop is located, on or in the board. Please continue making repair videos. I check your site every day for a new one.John C
Peter, once again a very well produced video which must be hard to do under microscopic conditions! A very honest result to show that the result, despite all the hard work and time, does not ALWAYS go to plan! Although you probably would not change out IC devices everyday, it might be worthwhile obtaining QFP nozzles for the heat gun?? Best of luck and I look forward, as always, to the next video Peter, 73 EI8EJB
Thanks for the fed-back Brain. Well you are certainly right with the QFP nozzels but I'm so familiar with using the "normal" nozzles that I would not use the QFP's most likely...Thanks for stepping in 73
hi Peter hope u are well? Very well done on the ic replacement i have to say thay u did do a superb job there. Micro soldering is very hard to do well done
Thank you Garry I'm fine only overload here :-) For micro soldering it is essential to have the right tools other than that it is a bit practice only... Thanks for stepping in friend! 73
Thanx for doing these Peter. I always look forward to your next vid. If the board is toast, why not continue dumping more current into it to find the short? You may resolve the short doing this. I have inadvertently done so (don't tell anyone!). You can tell I am into the brute force method, since my frontal lobe is so small.
Hi Bob, yes you can burn a short away and I have done that as well but you certainly agree that this would not be a professional and reliable repair :^) Thanks for watching 73
Yes, that is why I am a Radio Amateur, & not a professional. ;-) If I were to do this, I would only do it for my stuff or with the knowledge of the owner. BTW, I use Aluminum HVAC tape for draping the area. I have not found the plastic stuff you use. Thanx again. You are awesome.
8:28 Use more flux , this helps resoldering and solderind. 420*C is very hot (before need board preheat ~80*C (board big GND temp) +5min). 43:31 Or use termocamera ( SEEK Thermal Camera gives your iOS and Android devices Thermal Vision for Cheap )
That is the reason why I always heat the board before I go down. It takes longer as I do it manual what on the other hand a preheater can do for you...Thanks for watching 73
Remove this chip again and measure Apms/Voltages, without chip,. And if OK, then measure chip pins without board. Nothing to loos. Maybe some voltage regulator is grouded. Look this voltage rail, and separate other board parts (remove some comonents) of the chip (scrach or cut out rail), later make jumper.
Looks like FLIR found hotter spots in reflections of shiny metal surfaces on both sides of the board. On top side those large metal shields fit into the frame and on bottom side there's also some metal part on the left. Can you try with FLIR again after covering all those metal surfaces and with higher current limit? Which side of board gets hotter? Maybe you can show the hotspot position on board by moving some small and hot or shiny object just above the board until it's at the previous hotspot position in FLIR image. I'm curious whether that hotspot and short really is in the chip so that it gets hotter than bottom of board.
Before I would call it junk, I would up the current to 4-5+ amps. (with the customer's approval of course) If the board is truly going to be considered "JUNK", what would be the loss?
Hi peter my name is mark ,I have a question I have ts440 tx OK but I am receiving in dbs ,LSB on USB and USB on LSB could it be my side ban filter, thanks in advance
@42 mins What about the resistors at the bottom of the diagram? Do they not also cross between the 5v rail & ground? If it's the processor again then it might be worth a freeze spray test to see if the processor lets go. At least if it comes good temporarily you will know. Could solder paste be an alternative soldering technique for such a tricky component?
@46.11 look at the 7th and 8th pins down (on the right hand side) Looks like a hair but could be a tiny piece of wire shorting those two pins together, possibly from a contaminated solder tip or from the bench etc.
I agree it is very seldom that the PCB layers are damaged but sometimes it happens. If a cap would have a dead short it would get incredible hot but none did. But to be 100% sure I have taken all caps from the PCB after finishing the video. Caps are all okay. Thanks for watching 73
Wie du den Chip getauscht hast, hat mich schwer beeindruckt. Und ich fand das Video sehr spannend. Aber eines verstehe ich nicht: Warum hast du dich gewundert, daß da nichts warm wird? Wenn man den Spannungsabfall auf den Leitungen zum Netzteil abzieht dann bleibt keine Leistung mehr am Board übrig... Vielleicht bringt eine Milliohmmessung über den Kondensatoren neue Erkenntnisse...
Vielen Dank, freut mich das Dir das Video gefallen hat. Wenn ein chip kurzgeschlossen ist oder einer der Kondensatoren, liegt die Leistung immer in einem Bereich von mindestens ca. 500mW das reicht um ein defektes IC oder einen Kondensator richtig heiß werden zu lassen. Ich habe mich nicht wirklich gewundert das das Board bei 1,5A noch nicht warm geworden ist, denn dafür reicht der Spannungsfall am Kurzschluss nicht. Bei 5A wird dann aber langsam das Board unter em Chip warm. Ich hatte eigentlich mehr mit einen defekten Kondensator gerechnet und kann eigentlich immer noch nicht glauben das wir einen Schluss im Layer haben..Danke fürs vorbeischauen..Bis bald
Is there a short between pin 7 and 8 (count from the top to the bottom) at timestamp 46:14? I see something there. If not try removing all the electrolytics and test for shorts again. Don't give up yet.
Hi Freddy, no what you see is a grain from the Q-tip. If a cap would have a dead short it would get incredible hot but none did. But to be 100% sure I have taken all caps from the PCB after finishing the video. Caps are all okay. Thanks for watching 73
Hi Matthias, in part 2 and already in part 1 you can see that we didn't have a dead short before. But I agree with the case history of having to hight voltage to the supply line and together with all the soldering work we got this issue. The pre damage of the layers must have been more serious as one think. Thanks for watching 73
zbilja veliki trud za odustajanje. na kraju bude sitnica koju smo previdjeli gledajući veče detalje...i skup popravak generalno za radio koje je zamjenjivo .dosta više tih yaesu icom Motorola cijene su im drakonske a kvaliteta tako tako. uređaji su da se koriste a ne da budu statusni simboli kupeči prašinu.
The devil in me wants you to remove the via next to your soldered wire and replace it with wire. I suspect it may be shorting internally to ground. It would certainly be an obvious point of failure and would be very quick to do.
Hi my friend. Excellent job. I have an radio IC-275H that is in trouble. In FM mode the received audio is very low,so it is necessary to set the volume control to maximum. In SSB and CW mode the audio is normal. Could you give me any suggestions, any tips that I can research and find the defect? I really like that radio. Thank you. Miguel, PY1LO
Your repair videos are like scandinavian thrillers, 100% suspense! But one question is still remaining. Where are the 1.5 amps?? Where is all the energie? CZcams is full of stupid "free energie" videos Did you create a new genre? The "free disappearing energie videos"? :=) TY for sharing.
LOL yeah like it" The free disappearing energies" haha.. Well to be serious with 5A you feel that the pcb under the chip is getting warm but not hot. Must be a massive short on traces..I believe.. Thanks for watching 73
+tim keep in mind the supply is limiting the voltage to 0.45V so you're only dissipating slightly more than half a watt at 1.5A. If that was going into a tiny capacitor it would be very apparent, but if it is going into heating the ground plane, the heat is spread out so much it won't really get hot.
tolles video Peter sowie immer 👌👌 hast du vielleicht schon einmal von dem Chip Quick lötzinn gehört?? das ist wirklich sehr gut zum entlöten für solche IC Anwendungen .... daumen hoch 👍
Hallo Bernd, vielen Dank! Ja ich kenne Chip Quick und ich habe damit auch schon experimentiert. Nach meiner Erfahrung ist es immer ein wenig komplzierter mit Chip Quick als mit Heißluft. Aber wie gesagt das sind meine Erfahrungen. Ich weiß das auch viele Leute Schwierigkeiten mit Heißluft haben, aber das ist meistens weil eine falsche Heißluftstation verwendet wird. 73
did you clear the short (solder bridge) at 12:01 ? between pins 3 and 4 down ? **Actually on full screen it looks like it is supposed to be there.........
That's a shame the board can't be repaired, you win most of the time with your repairs. Well better luck next time Peter, I'm sure you win the next one. Cheers 73 😀
It is a trace not a solder bride so it has to be there :-) But we all can't get enough hints sometimes it is only a bit we we didn't see.. Thanks for watching. 73
TRX Bench yes after I had a closer look I could see it was a track. I thought you may have missed it because working with that camera in front of you can't be easy. Your videos are very good and I wait for every new one
why do you stop now?, is it not possible to remove the chip again? and continue, there is still a small chance that it's one of the caps? or is it Beyond economical repair becouse of old age ?
Yes, it is functional. For you, cost of board is zero. My donation to your channel. Email me at j.mardock@yahoo.com and I can give you some detail if you wish.
Here is a FREE Tip for everyone.NEVER purchase an ICOM 706,706 MKII,or early model 706 MKIIG for this reason.Unless you need a low power VHF/UHF rig with an HF/6 meter all mode receiver because odds are you will be dealing with this same issue one day.
Hi .I was looking the board, again and it.s seems to be the HM408-1The supply board is HM408-1 PS-2. THANCKS.iI would like you to help me and if you find the schematics, tell me why the R406 suffered a lot, and it is almost burn.The trace by one leg, of the resistor it is also dameged...but not burned.THANCK YOU.
I have been watching your videos for about a year. Your skill is amazing and I really enjoy the videos. I like that you post ALL videos, not just the successful repair videos. Thank you!
Thank you Phil, glad that you like my videos..73
pull the ic back out and the capacitors, ohm out the 5v rails again just to see if its really a shorted pcb just for curiosity sake. I have used a milliohm meter to find layer shorts before also its like a magic tool.
A tip from when I used to replace SMD ICs every day, if you have a pin vice and a sewing needle you can stroke the needle tip along the pins and with a little experience you'll begin to recognise the sound of a pin that's soldered properly compared to a pin that's not soldered well, when you don't get that 'ping' sound from the needle you can narrow it down to a single pin.
A quick pass with hot air, a little extra flux and a little pressure on the top of the chip near the badly soldered pin nine times out of ten will solder it properly.
Sad to see a failed repair but sometimes that's the way it goes, thanks for the excellent video.
Thanks for watching Clint 73
So, are we to conclude that the PLL chip or maybe the other chipss may not have needed changing ? Before i would go to the trouble of replacing SMD devices, i would know for sure that they need replacing. I would have checked every bypass cap they are easy with a pair of hot tweezers. There is also a new multi function tweezer meter.
73
Right decision in my opinion. We've learned a lot and finally it should rest in peace. I really enjoyed to follow you along in this repair. Many thanks Peter!
Thanks for watching and comment! 73
Such patience and skill. Way beyond anything I could manage. Modern ham gear are computers with a little bit of radio attached! Bring back the valves(tubes). HI. 73’s Lynton.
LOL yeah anything with more than 3 buttons are computers :^)
My thoughts about the dead short on the +5V supply issue is that when you supplied 1.5 AMP the PCB should have been extremely hot... rapidly advancing to smoke mode.
What accounts for the PCB @ 1.5AMP being cold is that your power supply couldn't source the load...A DVM in series would verify this ...as I do not trust a PS metering in a folder back mode.
Thank you Peter...All the best !
I know it's hindsight now, but next time before you solder a new chip on check to make sure the short has been removed. That way if it's still there it makes the troubleshooting process easier. When desoldering I also find that a little bit of flux helps remove the components as well. Good videos thanks for posting.
So much Work and Time put in this Work. I am sad for this End. (R.I.P. little PLL)
Peter thank you very much for this Video.
Vielen Dank für deine Geduld und das Du diese Videos für alle zugänglich machst.
Deine Videos sind wie immer absolut Top. 1000 Daumen hoch von mir ;-)
Hallo Thomas, freut mich immer, wenn meine Videos gefallen...Vielen Dank fürs vorbeischauen. 73
Good thing you checked the 5 volt supply to see if it is grounded. Still love your videos. Sorry to see this radio cannot be repaired. Cheers & 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee & Happy Easter.
Happy Eastern, Rusty
Always very much enjoy your videos. Watched this whole PLL series. Nice work as always, and sorry it didn't work out in the end. I was just curious why you didn't remove all of the little capacitors and remove the new chip just to verify it was actually a short in the PCB?? Thanks for the time you put into these incredible videos.
And then when you know it’s the board, crank the current up and blow a hole in it. 😀😀
Great repair, this is what I like to see, none of those others that wast time
always glad to see you , Peter thanks for working around to do videos
Thank you for your words Dennis very much appreciated... Have a nice week end 73
Very nice job and good video! Thanks! I've done a chip swap like these only few times and been fortunate most of the times. It's a job that is every time a challenge of skills. To think that most service centers today don't even bother to change chips as many pins as these have. They just swap the boards... but what a waste of skills and fun! :) I just bought a TS-940S which had a bad tuner but now after analyzing it it also have a bad receiver. Someone has changed 4 or more BPF coils to different models and some JFET's are getting very hot. I tried to get it fixed but as I figured that those coils have been changed I ordered a used RF-unit instead. Smelled like that fix could take a whole year...
My high school German is very rusty - I was also going to say that Chip Quick is another method to consider to help minimize the heat absorption of the components and PCB. Sorry this didn't work out Peter but still an opportunity to see and learn new tips and techniques. WAY back in the day we had folks who would do multi-layer PCB repair but I doubt anyone does that kind of thing anymore. 73 - Dino KL0S
Well as I said my experience with chip quick is compared to hot air not positive as the risk of damaging pads was in my case always higher. So you always pay for one advantage with another disadvantage. Today a damage with hotair to a pcb or a component is very seldom so I think we really can take the risk.
Yes this time it didn't work out but I found it important to show that as well as we can't win all the time :^) Thanks for watching and comment Dino! 73
Sorry, Peter! I got that sick feeling when I saw the short after soldering the new chip in. I knew that would be a hard find! Maybe if you get away from it for a while, we will see a Part 4 and the radio working. Good luck. You do superb work! 73...Dan w4mnc
Hi Dan, yes it is a pain but we can't always win :^) Thanks for watching 73
Thanks Peter, enjoyed watching part 3. Great work by you again. Maybe another spare board may become available and the radio comes back to life.
Hi Joe, thank you. Yes the best would be another board. Let's see what we get 73
those semi's are made by Mitsubishi electric in japan, loved soldering those semi's
keep making more videos i find them very enjoyable ( i watch them even at work while fixing other stuff)
I had exactly the same problem with a Sony CCU some years ago, I removed all the 5volt components in the area where the short was, then
I went to a car battery and blown out the shortage.
After reinstalling the components and make a few 5volt wires the CCU worked fine again.
If your board is already beyond repair you can try 5volt with lots of amps...
Keep up your great videos.
Hi Mark yes that is a possible way I have done it as well a couple of time ago...Thanks for watching 73
Really enjoyed these video's Peter. It has given me a good understanding of techniques to fault find. Keep up the good work. 73 VK5AV.
Glad that you like my videos TJ! Thanks for stopping by 73
Thought I had replied to this Peter. Not sure what happened lol. Sometimes repairs can just go a little too far. In this case I feel like you gave it your best and there is no economical way to repair the board. So many things inside the layers could be bad. yes you could turn the amps up and see if the short heats the board and find it on the thermal cam. But digging into layers is just not the way to go. Thanks for your time on showing us the incredible skills you share my friend. buddy
Yes I agree no way to do it somehow economical. But this story is not at it's end. We are waiting for a new board :-) Thanks for stepping in my friend 73
Try placing the board on a few paper towels and cover it with alcohol. Even hot spots inside PCB should show faster evaporation.
@12:40 in video pre-chip install, 3rd and 4th pin on left are shorted, however without a schematic I can't tell if this is common grounds. Love the videos!
Thank you John, yeah it is common ground... 73
I saw that solder bridge too! There were a couple tiny solder balls on the right hand side of where the chip was going in. Here is a suggestion get a high rez video camera that will macro focus on a board and connect it to a 40 to 46 inch,
4 K monitor. That will help you see things like tiny shorts .
So sorry for your trouble Peter. This kind of stuff keeps you up at night. Not only do you loose money but at times you have an unhappy customer. 73 W5DN
That is how it goes sometimes but you are right not really nice..
Geez Peter Well done for not Swearing 👍After all the hard work with that fiddly IC I would have found it very hard not to shout and swear at the chip😆.
LOL yeah :^) Thanks for watching 73
You can't win them all Peter. Great video. M3KQW, 73s
Fully agree Howard we can't win all the time...Thanks for watching 73
Hi Peter, I could feel your disappointment but as you said some times it happens.
As you consider the board beyond repair I would definitely remove the new chip and check if the short is still there just for my own feeling I had done the soldering right and to find out what the problem is.
Thanks for sharing!
You are right I'm always disappointed if I can't get the best result out of it :^) Thanks for watching Michael 73
@ 1:02.25 I see what might be a short Pin 7 to Pin 8, from top right corner of frame, right below the printed "4" on ic.
I saw the same at 46 mins. But might be a scratch on the board.
I saw a bridged pair after cleanup as well.
Maybe late in the game, but try reflowing the leads to try to pull an unseen solder short out.
Ok, it is probably nothing but I see a short between #3-4 pads in the upper left at 12:20 after the cleaning, which would be totally invisible after the IC is placed. I have absolutely no experience in this kind of SMD reworks but still I thought I should mention what I saw. Great video as always!
Now I see somebody else have already mentioned it :D
Thank you. We never can get enough hints as it happens to easy to simply not see an issue...73
Mal wieder Zeit sich zu bedanken, echt klasse Deine Beiträge, einige Freunde von mir schauen sie sich wie ich immer gerne an. Grüße 55 73 Peter
Freut mich wie immer von Dir zu hören Peter! Vielen Dank und auch an all Deine Freunde 55&73
Danke Peter bis bald, Wir schauen immer zu, auch wen Wir uns nur ab und an melden, 55 73
Alles okay ihr braucht auch nicht immer kommentieren! Schönen Abend 55&73
Aber wir lernen gerne, :-D danke Dir auch 55 73
Hi nice video did you check for short when chip is removed?
We all learned a lot. Thanks
Thanks for watching Jim 73
Thanks for sharing even when it didn't come out no good.
Thanks for feed-back 73
It's nice to see a worst case scenario once in a while, just to keep expectations realistic.
Yes that is the point nobody can always win :^) Thanks for watching 73
Really good video!
damn what a pain..but you are good peter
Yeah it is a pain...Thanks for watching 73
Peter, Thanks for your great videos. I enjoy them immensely. May I suggest that it would be fun to find that short even if it is inside the PCB. I was waiting for you to bring out a FLIR and you didn't disappoint. Maybe if you connected your power supply ground lead to one of the bypass caps that would concentrate the current to a smaller area and your FLIR could detect the heat. As the board is scrap now you could adjust the current until it is detectable. Just a suggestion as the FLIR is a great tool for troubleshooting shorts and some people would find that method interesting to witness. Take Care! Fred
Hi Fred, well have to talk to the OM what we are going to do...1,5A is really a huge amount of current and should so any heat if a cap is involved..Thanks for watching 73
You are running 1.5A at .5 volts. That is only 750mW. That is probably not enough power to heat anything up.
You might try cranking the current up again to get the voltage up and thus the power. I see your supply will do 5A.
It is the power that will heat a component not just current. Maybe a working part will come available in Ebay.
Don't feel badly. You are the man.
Hello,
sorry, but that´s not correct.
The heating of a conductor only depends
on the current density and the current density is the quotient of
current divided by wire cross-section. (J= I/A)
Werlaf P=U*I. Or: no Voltage - > no Power!
So many detailed Work .. blushed.. an PCB error.. damn..
Temps' can testing with Lips or Flir :)
Yeah shit happens, we can't always win....73
By my point of view that PCB need a deep check as recommended from other friends...try to remove the IC and start a new board check. You have saved other radio with worse condition !! :) '73
Let's see if this is the end...Thanks for watching Alessandro 73
..it's a very strange and interesting case. '73
It might be possible to fabricate a metal square nozzle for the hot air gun to direct and concentrate the heat only over the pins. Might even be able to make one (temporarily) out of aluminium foil.
Usually 1.5 A on a PCB WILL bubble up at the short because of heat inside the layers. It seems to me that the PLL was installed 90⁰ rotated counter clock wise...
thanks for the videos
I would suggest cutting the pins off the ic, and then desoldering the pins, less heat sinking so is easier to get it off, which reduces the chance of damage.
excellent video as always!
Thank you my friend 73
New ic looks good.
Hi Peter. So sorry that you were not able to effect a repair. I do have a question: does the 5 volt rail run inside the board? If the rail was on the top or bottom of the board, could you cut the traces in the loop around the ic to isolate the short? Please help me understand where the loop is located, on or in the board. Please continue making repair videos. I check your site every day for a new one.John C
The trace is inside the board so you can't get access to it..Thanks for watching 73
very good peter
Thanks for watching 73
Peter, once again a very well produced video which must be hard to do under microscopic conditions! A very honest result to show that the result, despite all the hard work and time, does not ALWAYS go to plan! Although you probably would not change out IC devices everyday, it might be worthwhile obtaining QFP nozzles for the heat gun?? Best of luck and I look forward, as always, to the next video Peter, 73 EI8EJB
Thanks for the fed-back Brain. Well you are certainly right with the QFP nozzels but I'm so familiar with using the "normal" nozzles that I would not use the QFP's most likely...Thanks for stepping in 73
hi Peter hope u are well? Very well done on the ic replacement i have to say thay u did do a superb job there. Micro soldering is very hard to do well done
Thank you Garry I'm fine only overload here :-) For micro soldering it is essential to have the right tools other than that it is a bit practice only... Thanks for stepping in friend! 73
The Old man is not going to be happy if you don't fix his radio.
That is true...Thanks for comment 73
Thanx for doing these Peter. I always look forward to your next vid. If the board is toast, why not continue dumping more current into it to find the short? You may resolve the short doing this. I have inadvertently done so (don't tell anyone!). You can tell I am into the brute force method, since my frontal lobe is so small.
Hi Bob, yes you can burn a short away and I have done that as well but you certainly agree that this would not be a professional and reliable repair :^) Thanks for watching 73
Yes, that is why I am a Radio Amateur, & not a professional. ;-) If I were to do this, I would only do it for my stuff or with the knowledge of the owner. BTW, I use Aluminum HVAC tape for draping the area. I have not found the plastic stuff you use. Thanx again. You are awesome.
Ah come on Bob Radio Amateurs ARE professionals! Have a nice week end! 73
What a pity that you didn't check the rail while the chip was removed.
I did not understand this either.
That wasn't an issue before it was removed.
8:28 Use more flux , this helps resoldering and solderind. 420*C is very hot (before need board preheat ~80*C (board big GND temp) +5min). 43:31 Or use termocamera ( SEEK Thermal Camera gives your iOS and Android devices Thermal Vision for Cheap )
That is the reason why I always heat the board before I go down. It takes longer as I do it manual what on the other hand a preheater can do for you...Thanks for watching 73
Remove this chip again and measure Apms/Voltages, without chip,. And if OK, then measure chip pins without board. Nothing to loos. Maybe some voltage regulator is grouded. Look this voltage rail, and separate other board parts (remove some comonents) of the chip (scrach or cut out rail), later make jumper.
i saw pad were short with soldering not far from dot marking. please rewind before you fit new ic
Thank you Agus for hint. 73
Looks like FLIR found hotter spots in reflections of shiny metal surfaces on both sides of the board. On top side those large metal shields fit into the frame and on bottom side there's also some metal part on the left. Can you try with FLIR again after covering all those metal surfaces and with higher current limit? Which side of board gets hotter? Maybe you can show the hotspot position on board by moving some small and hot or shiny object just above the board until it's at the previous hotspot position in FLIR image. I'm curious whether that hotspot and short really is in the chip so that it gets hotter than bottom of board.
I can say so far that you feel the board getting warm underneath the chip with 5A. Thanks for watching 73
thank you
Thanks for watching 73
Before I would call it junk, I would up the current to 4-5+ amps. (with the customer's approval of course) If the board is truly going to be considered "JUNK", what would be the loss?
oops, I see you tried that a few posts down..Still if it's junk, up the current until something is obvious. (Just make sure to post it on CZcams) :-)
Yeah let's see what the OM want me to do. Thanks for watching 73
Hi peter my name is mark ,I have a question I have ts440 tx OK but I am receiving in dbs ,LSB on USB and USB on LSB could it be my side ban filter, thanks in advance
@42 mins What about the resistors at the bottom of the diagram? Do they not also cross between the 5v rail & ground?
If it's the processor again then it might be worth a freeze spray test to see if the processor lets go. At least if it comes good temporarily you will know. Could solder paste be an alternative soldering technique for such a tricky component?
@46.11 look at the 7th and 8th pins down (on the right hand side) Looks like a hair but could be a tiny piece of wire shorting those two pins together, possibly from a contaminated solder tip or from the bench etc.
Unless thats just a scratch on the board.
it would take 5 minutes to remove all those decoupling caps and test for short again. The PCB layers are very-very rarely damaged.
I agree it is very seldom that the PCB layers are damaged but sometimes it happens. If a cap would have a dead short it would get incredible hot but none did. But to be 100% sure I have taken all caps from the PCB after finishing the video. Caps are all okay. Thanks for watching 73
Wie du den Chip getauscht hast, hat mich schwer beeindruckt. Und ich fand das Video sehr spannend. Aber eines verstehe ich nicht: Warum hast du dich gewundert, daß da nichts warm wird? Wenn man den Spannungsabfall auf den Leitungen zum Netzteil abzieht dann bleibt keine Leistung mehr am Board übrig... Vielleicht bringt eine Milliohmmessung über den Kondensatoren neue Erkenntnisse...
Vielen Dank, freut mich das Dir das Video gefallen hat. Wenn ein chip kurzgeschlossen ist oder einer der Kondensatoren, liegt die Leistung immer in einem Bereich von mindestens ca. 500mW das reicht um ein defektes IC oder einen Kondensator richtig heiß werden zu lassen. Ich habe mich nicht wirklich gewundert das das Board bei 1,5A noch nicht warm geworden ist, denn dafür reicht der Spannungsfall am Kurzschluss nicht. Bei 5A wird dann aber langsam das Board unter em Chip warm. Ich hatte eigentlich mehr mit einen defekten Kondensator gerechnet und kann eigentlich immer noch nicht glauben das wir einen Schluss im Layer haben..Danke fürs vorbeischauen..Bis bald
Is there a short between pin 7 and 8 (count from the top to the bottom) at timestamp 46:14? I see something there.
If not try removing all the electrolytics and test for shorts again.
Don't give up yet.
Hi Freddy, no what you see is a grain from the Q-tip. If a cap would have a dead short it would get incredible hot but none
did. But to be 100% sure I have taken all caps from the PCB after
finishing the video. Caps are all okay. Thanks for watching 73
After desoldering the IC you have not checked for short, don't you? The short must have been there after removing the old IC?
Hi Matthias, in part 2 and already in part 1 you can see that we didn't have a dead short before. But I agree with the case history of having to hight voltage to the supply line and together with all the soldering work we got this issue. The pre damage of the layers must have been more serious as one think. Thanks for watching 73
Is there a short between pin 7 and 8 (count from the top to the bottom) at timestamp 46:14? I see something there.
No what you see is a grain from the Q-tip.. Thanks for watching 73
zbilja veliki trud za odustajanje. na kraju bude sitnica koju smo previdjeli gledajući veče detalje...i skup popravak generalno za radio koje je zamjenjivo .dosta više tih yaesu icom Motorola cijene su im drakonske a kvaliteta tako tako. uređaji su da se koriste a ne da budu statusni simboli kupeči prašinu.
The devil in me wants you to remove the via next to your soldered wire and replace it with wire. I suspect it may be shorting internally to ground. It would certainly be an obvious point of failure and would be very quick to do.
Hi my friend. Excellent job. I have an radio IC-275H that is in trouble. In FM mode the received audio is very low,so it is necessary to set the volume control to maximum. In SSB and CW mode the audio is normal. Could you give me any
suggestions, any tips that I can research and find the defect? I really like that radio. Thank you. Miguel, PY1LO
Your repair videos are like scandinavian thrillers, 100% suspense!
But one question is still remaining. Where are the 1.5 amps??
Where is all the energie? CZcams is full of stupid "free energie" videos
Did you create a new genre? The "free disappearing energie videos"? :=)
TY for sharing.
LOL yeah like it" The free disappearing energies" haha..
Well to be serious with 5A you feel that the pcb under the chip is getting warm but not hot. Must be a massive short on traces..I believe.. Thanks for watching 73
@ 1:02.25 I see what might be a short Pin 7 to Pin 8, from top right corner of frame, right below the printed "4" on ic.
+tim keep in mind the supply is limiting the voltage to 0.45V so you're only dissipating slightly more than half a watt at 1.5A. If that was going into a tiny capacitor it would be very apparent, but if it is going into heating the ground plane, the heat is spread out so much it won't really get hot.
tolles video Peter sowie immer 👌👌
hast du vielleicht schon einmal von dem Chip Quick lötzinn gehört?? das ist wirklich sehr gut zum entlöten für solche IC Anwendungen .... daumen hoch 👍
Hallo Bernd, vielen Dank! Ja ich kenne Chip Quick und ich habe damit auch schon experimentiert. Nach meiner Erfahrung ist es immer ein wenig komplzierter mit Chip Quick als mit Heißluft. Aber wie gesagt das sind meine Erfahrungen. Ich weiß das auch viele Leute Schwierigkeiten mit Heißluft haben, aber das ist meistens weil eine falsche Heißluftstation verwendet wird. 73
did you clear the short (solder bridge) at 12:01 ? between pins 3 and 4 down ?
**Actually on full screen it looks like it is supposed to be there.........
That's a shame the board can't be repaired, you win most of the time with your repairs. Well better luck next time Peter, I'm sure you win the next one. Cheers 73 😀
Harb's Elecronics Lab. Pin 3 and 4 are in short. You see a pattern 35:54
It is a trace not a solder bride so it has to be there :-) But we all can't get enough hints sometimes it is only a bit we we didn't see.. Thanks for watching. 73
Yes you are right Tom we can't win all the time...Thanks for watching 73
TRX Bench yes after I had a closer look I could see it was a track.
I thought you may have missed it because working with that camera in front of you can't be easy.
Your videos are very good and I wait for every new one
Nice
why do you stop now?, is it not possible to remove the chip again? and continue, there is still a small chance that it's one of the caps? or is it Beyond economical repair becouse of old age ?
Yes it is already far beyond an economical repair. The best might be to get a used board to fix the problem. Thanks for watching 73
Peter, is it possible to use a 6 digit multimeter to measure voltage drop or resistance to try to find the spot on the board closest to the short?
Yes that is a possible way..73
Does ICOM use custom PLL chips in all of their radios?
Yes ICOM always use custom chips...73
Put it on the shelf and come back to it Peter. Sorry it didnt work out this time.
Hi Simon , yes that helps in most of the cases :^) Thanks for watching 73
where can i buy PLL IC for icom 706mk2g ?
from ICOM only
@12:20 looks like two pads in upper left are bridged.
no that is a trace...73
why the ic problem with inductor not ic
Hi Roger, sorry not sure what you mean....
I was wondering what the tape you used to mask off the other componets?
Hi Clive, that is heat-resistant kapton tape to reduce possible damage. Hope that helps...Thanks for watching 73
Thanks for the help.
Hi Peter,
You tried your best. Can't win them all. HiHi
Only option now is to see if a used working PCB is available. 73 WB3BJU
Yeah we never can will them all...you are right Donald. I agree a board would be the best next step. 73 Thanks for stepping in 73
Hello Peter, I still have the PLL board for you if you want it?
Hi yes that is an option if the board is working 100%. Thanks for info 73
Yes, it is functional. For you, cost of board is zero. My donation to your channel. Email me at j.mardock@yahoo.com and I can give you some detail if you wish.
You have to fix this ONE Peter. 73's VK^njp
Still working on it :-) 73
Put 5 or more amps into the board, Something has to get hot!
Hi Brian, I have already put 5Amps to the circuit and you barley can feel that the pcb it starting to get a little bit warm..73
Here is a FREE Tip for everyone.NEVER purchase an ICOM 706,706 MKII,or early model 706 MKIIG for this reason.Unless you need a low power VHF/UHF rig with an HF/6 meter all mode receiver because odds are you will be dealing with this same issue one day.
Yes I fully agree with you..This is an odd radio. 73
You can say so about any radio, but 706 is a good radio.
hi.I just want to ask if you saw my message inside your gmail box....
Hi Elena, no I have to double check...73
Hi .I was looking the board, again and it.s seems to be the HM408-1The supply board is HM408-1 PS-2. THANCKS.iI would like you to help me and if you find the schematics, tell me why the R406 suffered a lot, and it is almost burn.The trace by one leg, of the resistor it is also dameged...but not burned.THANCK YOU.