Unipolar 3D printer part 9 | How to design a heated bed for under $10.00??
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- This video is sponsored by: NO ONE!!! But feel free to follow me on Twitter for random updates'n stuff :) It's time to discuss how we're going to make the heated bed! In episode 7 we found out it's incredibly hard to build a bed heater with the mere 10 USD I have left of my $50 budget, so in this video I wanted to go over all the problems I encountered on my quest to develop a 3D printer heated bed for less than that, as well as share the solution I came up with. Stay tuned for the next episode where we're actually going to build the thing, and if you haven't watched episode 7 make sure to catch up on it here:
• Building a unipolar 3D...
Here's some affiliate links* to parts I got for this printer:
5pcs A4988 stepper motor drivers: s.click.aliexp...
Cheapy hotend kit: s.click.aliexp...
Arduino mega 2560: s.click.aliexp...
Geeetech PLA filament: s.click.aliexp...
4010 turbine fan: s.click.aliexp...
100k NTC temperature sensor for heated bed: s.click.aliexp...
10m nylon coated fishing line: s.click.aliexp...
Keep in mind I got a few of these items during sale, so the total might well be above $50 now (especially with inflation)
* if you decide to purchase something through an affiliate link I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you :)
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Did you ever anticipate it would be THIS HARD? Stay tuned for part 10!
You can make a glass sandwich with the resistance wire in the middle as well.
@@cosmefulanito5933 Truuue!, that could work
Nice work! Aluminum foil is such useful stuff. But for a low cost printer, I would just omit the heat bed entirely. Masking tape and glue stick works fine. Heated glass is like magic when a large print releases effortlessly whereas it would be a great struggle with tape, but sometimes the bare glass adhesion isn't strong enough to keep corners from curling up and then you have to use tape anyway.
great series and I've been wanting to make a 3D printer out of recycled electronics waste for ages.. laser printers, inkjet printers copiers are a great free source of motors and supplies even stepper controllers, so I managed to get some parts working but never really built a complete 3D printer from scratch.. One day I will (I hope) if it will be with thick copper wire, copper tape power resistors or your super solution with alufoil, I am not sure yet.
I understand your reasons to chose the alu foil.. the main disatvantage I think is our (yours and mine) greatest chalenge is to connect the aluminium foil reliably to the power supply. I have some old salvaged thick copper wire and some copper tape roll, also some glass plates of old scanners and inkjet/scanner combos. capton tape I have only 1 cm wide tape. If you use 2 glassplates to clamp the heated aluminium foil / copper tape or capton taped copper wire in between, the keeping it sticked together problem might be solved.
Thanks for the comment, actually I don't think connecting leads to the aluminum foil will be a problem at all, since I went through the effort of drilling holes directly thru the glass plate I can simply use the bed leveling screws as connection points seeing as they already clamp down on the glass-aluminum laminate. If, for whatever reason that shouldn't work, I hear aluminum can actually be soldered after sanding the surface under mineral oil so it doesn't oxidize...
As for using wire as heating element - my original plan was to temporarily attach the wire to the glass using just two strips of kapton, then pour a thin layer of plaster over it to improve heat transfer and fix it in place. I very quickly dismissed the idea as thermal expansion coefficient of glass and plaster might not be the same and could lead to bending of the entire build surface. Additionally the wire itself probably gets significantly longer, inducing further stresses. You suggest sandwiching the wire via a second pane of glass, I thought about something similar that unfortunately requires good glassworking skills I don't have: if you do a series of cuts on both sides of the bottom glass, the wire could be weaved back and forth between the little tabs it creates just like they do on the myca sheets in toasters. Then attach it underneath the build plate, wire side up. However thermal expansion of the wire would have made it go slack whenever it heats up... But sandwiching the aluminium foil seems a good solution as it also expands and goes slack underneath the kapton - if heat distribution ends up being an issue I'll put a piece of sheet metal over the kapton.
If you someday want to build a 3D printer; I intend to improve on my design and make a slightly smaller version with a standard ender 3 form factor that is easier to build for everyone, so maybe that'll be of help :)
Omg you are the best youtuber in the 3d printing community i literally been wating for your videos every single day
That's big praise, thanks
Babe wake up chronic mechatronics just post a new 3d printer video
like u have 1
@@papolele wdym
Very good video man! I always love your recourcefulness.
Thanks Asher! And I always love presenting those solutions I came up with 😅
Actually I was a bit worried about how well this video would be received given I didn't build anything, but you guys seem to like it regardless 😅 next episode it'll be built, I promise 🤝
Have you checked out that Copper Tape? It's used to make DIY circuits (the common one are only conductive on top, but a even more expensive has conductive sticky side too) and can be expensive, but please check it out!
I did consider copper tape, but the price point and the difficulty of folding it around corners but me off that idea.
6:48 but it would still eventually heat up! Unless the power supply has a safty feature.
The power supply has overcurrent protection
Wow, very good video! Can you make a video on how you learnt about electronics, mechanics, woodworking? I am from the software industry mainly but I am interested in learning all this. Any particular courses you recommend?
Thanks! Actually I couldn't pinpoint any specific courses where learned I a lot of the stuff, I've somehow had a "Chronic" interest in these topics since I was like 7 yo, and over the years gobbled up everything I found on the matter. I did a few science and electronics credits in high school where I also did a bit of C++ coding for arduino, but the great majority I probably learned on CZcams - I've watched probably thousands of videos over the years (still do over an hour daily) and great educational channels I really recommend are: @bigclivedotcom for electronics, @Matthiaswandel for mechanics, woodworking and engineering (he basically inspired me to build my woodworkshop and got me into this weird "building machines out of wood" hobby), @theCodyReeder (Cody's Lab) for science. Those are the channels I most love for their educational entertainment although they might not be very suited for learning the basics. For some of those @JeremyFieldingSr might be great, tho I started following him too late in the journey where I didn't need basics explainer videos anymore...
More recently I've been watching @ThisOldTony for machining and @MakersMuse for 3D printing, but you'll find those along with other channels I watch for entertainment in the "inspiring channels" section on my channel page. @colinfurze is also really good if you need some inspiration for insanity - he was actually the one who made me decide to create my own youtube channel 😅
I hope this helps somewhat!
@@ChronicMechatronic Nice, most people watch these videos for entertainment purposes only but you are one of those people who actually put what you learn into practice. You have a very good career ahead of you! Thanks for the recommendations.
~0.2 w/cm² is likely enough for printing on a 60C bed, but would also never hit 120C due to not being able to keep up with heat lost to the environment. ~0.4 is recommended for about 100C.
you can probably get away with a bit less in both cases, but overhead is good ... i mean you want your bed to actually hit the temp you requested right? (oh yea and you also loose a few degrees through the bed so the surface may be colder than you expect.)
I admit I expected rear window defrost paint to pop up at some point since that is just coated right onto glass. Though I dunno how hot that can actually get without issues, And I am sure its probably not at all cheap.
Yeah no way window defrost paint can beat aluminum in cheapness 😂
Hey I'm using inkjet printer dc motors as steppers! It's accurate! It's on my channel. No steppers needed!
Yes! I actually plan on using DC motors for my next 3D printer! In developed countries those unipolar stepper motors are getting harder and harder to find due to old printers and machines containing them having been decommissioned years ago... My coding skills just aren't there yet to deal with the complex sensor readings DC motors require :(
19:30 Will the glue withstand the elevated temperature ?
The spray adhesive, no, but it doesn't have to since the entire thing will be covered in kapton. The spray adhesive step is really just for ease of manufacturing :)
If you wanted you could also cover the aluminum foil with kapton, cut it out using scissors, and then kapton tape it to the plate, but getting it to lay flat will be difficult that way, which is why I opted for spray adhesive and cutting it out on the glass :)
Did you think about making the heater using some PCB board and etching the resistive pattern on it?
Honestly no, but a PCB blank this size (plus the chemicals since I don't have those kicking around already) would easily exceed the ridiculous budget :/
Though the aluminum foil ended up working great, video will be out soon!
Cheers. Could you send me some programs to draw and convert to G-cod? Thank you in advance. Your project is awesome, super fancy. I am a complete beginner to 3D printers. I would be happy if you could help me a little. Well thank you.
Awesome bro
i mean... i like your ingenuity but, 4 power supplies dude haha
Yup, lol 😂
No power sag when using multiple heaters. It's a very great solution. Cheap too!
I did this on my cnc video.
"Millennium falcon cnc controller" i used 2 19v in series.
cool, yeah tell your sponsors to make their own commercials, give them 5 seconds while you pause the video so they can blah blah blah, even preface it by saying what the sponsor says doesnt necessarily align with our views, like radio shows do, then they can sell their crap, you can get your money, and we can watch the show, everyones happy, and theres no cringey integration that comes off as deceptive
Well, thing is, many sponsors prefer more organic integrations over the plain AD ones. And I can't blame them, if it was me I would feel the same. Generally I think they sponsor small channels like mine not as much for influence or the number of eyeballs on those ADs, as for publicly showing approval of their product to induce a better brand perception - I dunno...
I do have mixed feelings about sponsorships in general, while I certainly don't like the added manipulation they come with, I feel a lot better taking money from some corporation than from individuals on like Patreon - even though fan funding is admittedly much more suited to fostering creativity. We'll see how it turns out, I do plan on getting more picky with advertisers as channel growth progresses and more income comes from other sources, but for now I'll have to rely on you guys being aware of the superficial opinions money can generate ;)
Also, speaking of cringey integrations, I actually *like* to make and even watch sponsor integrations so long as they're of the high effort, creative kind like Colin Furze sometimes did and like the ones I had in episodes 4 & 7. It's just - that creativity and a fixed schedule don't mix very well, and if I don't get that spark of something new I could try this time it gets bland.
I get that youre trying to make everything yourself, but a 220x220 heated bed is $15 shipped.
That may very well be, and I didn't say my solution is better than buying one, or even worth the extra time, but the insanity of actually building everything from scratch while sticking to the ridiculous budget I set no matter what, is just what people are enjoying about this series - why would I destroy it?
I could also just have a sponsor give me a finished printer to review if it was about easy solutions...
I can’t wait to see the end result bro. I’m a guy like you that like to use parts off my shelf from savaged equipment. They called me black Macgyver lol. Except you have more knowledge/ experience in electronics than me😂. I like to challenge myself, this is why I’m in the process of building a 600x600x 500 3d printer without any kad design or copy from someone. I’m just going with the flow. For instance I use a baby changing table as enclosure/ frame 😂😂😂. Got it to print already, but I want to make it easier to fix in case something fails. I’m subscribed because I don’t want to miss on your 70%wooden printer . It’s awesome bro 👍👍👍👍
Tin foil hat🤠
We need an emoji with one 😂😂
Cheers. Could you send me some programs to draw and convert to G-cod? Thank you in advance. Your project is awesome, super fancy. I am a complete beginner to 3D printers. I would be happy if you could help me a little. Well thank you.
For drawing you can check out my pen plotter series, I extensively covered the most common software used for it over there. BUT - if you just want to 3D print, without first learning a lot about CNC in general, I strongly recommend you start with 3D printing straight away. Marlin firmware and Slicers are far easier to use than the pen plotter software since the user interface has matured and is now hiding all the stuff that's confusing for beginners. Getting a 3D printer set up is EASY compared to getting a pen plotter working - I was a total beginner to 3D printing myself and it only took me 2 days to get this printer working, whereas the plotter took weeks to figure out. That's my advice.