Thanks for watching. The solenoid can fail mechanically or electrically. You can test the solenoid for continuity to see if the coils have failed. You can see more here: czcams.com/video/Mdu7QlAzWOg/video.htmlsi=Qq49E1uSHnp86TE0&t=169
Hi Francisco, Unfortunately we do not have a video for installation. We do have installation instructions available on our website at www.amresupply.com however. Thanks! - Rachael
Anyone know where we can get just the tubing/valve? The coil and actual solenoid/winding/plunger/piston seem to be fine but I can't clean all of the gunk out of the tubing. It shouldn't be a $90 replacement if the most expensive part is not even broken...
Thanks for watching. You can get tubing here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Polyvinyl-Polyethylene-PGB4 and www.amresupply.com/catalog/Tubing-HI42 As for the valve leading out of the solenoid, it is normally sold with the solenoid, we don't list it as an individual part. www.amresupply.com/lookup/238028/1613268#diagram Hope this helps!
Thanks for watching. If the solenoid as failed then you could technically bypass it by connecting the small hose directly to the inlet. In that case you'll get water flowing over the humidifier pad 100% of the time. If you have a T-fitting and a ball valve supplying water to the humidifier then you can just open the valve as needed. If you have a saddle valve like shown in the video, its not recommended to open and close it daily as its more prone to leaking.
@@AmreSupply Thanks - we are in Canada - Honeywell does not have the part and we are at 10% humidity so I think bypassing it manually may not be a bad idea - just a pain but at least we will sleep better and not be so dry. Thanks for your help.
@@ElliotFinkelman AMRE Supply has the solenoid in stock. You can either pick it up in one of our 12 stores across canada or we will can ship it to you directly. If your solenoid is connected to DC power then it will be this part: www.amresupply.com/part/50041883-001# If your solenoid is connected to AC power then you'll want to order this part: www.amresupply.com/part/50041883-002 Hope this helps!
Anyone know what resistance this solenoid should test at? Ours stopped working and solenoid is testing around 15 ohms. The copper tubing doesn't seem to come apart to look inside to see if there's an internal issue/blockage.
Thanks for watching. 15 Ohms is an acceptable resistance for a solenoid valve like this. You are right that it is difficult to check for blockages. Are you able to hear the valve click and open when it runs? If it does then that's verification that it is opening. If you don't hear a click when there is a call for humidity then it could be an internal issue preventing it from opening.
@@AmreSupply Thanks for responding, it doesn't click at all. So my guess is there is something wrong with the "plunger" system inside the copper tubing. Will have to look at replacing the whole package.
@@gs98999 You're welcome, we're just happy to help. In these cases the replacement of the solenoid can be necessary as there isn't a ideal way of taking apart a solenoid without damaging it.
@@hiteshbhardwaj000 A continuity test will show you if the solenoid coil has failed electrically but doesn't tell you what has failed mechanically. If the valve is stuck open it could because of sediment, the spring might be broken or it just might be jammed. If it has failed mechanically then the solenoid valve will need to be replaced.
I replaced the solenoid last week but have a slow drip coming from the distributor tube. Not sure if it was sliced or cracked when TG heating did the solenoid replacement. How do I replace the black tube or any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks
Thanks for watching. You are right that a bad connection on the distributor tube can cause leaking. You can see the connection above the humidifier pad by opening up the front panel. This is indirectly shown here: czcams.com/video/h7DjR5akhDg/video.html
@@AmreSupply I need the 24 inch water feed hose for the Honeywell He 100 can you order me one and tell me what the price is please. I can do curb-side pick up or when is the store gonna be open to the public ? Thanks Rob in London ontario
@@Rob-ob3sh The best thing is to call our customer care center @ 1-800-661-9891 and have the model number ready or place an order through our website: amresupply.com/ The London branch currently has curbside pickup as well you can also order the part to be shipped directly to your home if needed.
@@AmreSupply thank you but I had no luck. I contacted the 1800 number they could not help and passed me on to the local store but nobody would pick up so 1800 person said just go into the store, I went into the store today and the counter person could not track down the part and recommended I get the part used by calling a hvac repair technician LoL. I truly doubt I’m gonna have luck doing that. I’ve been to Rona and Home Depot. No luck I can’t believe I can’t get a $20 feedtube nozel hose and clips. Do you guys have any ideas to help me get this part ?
@@Rob-ob3sh It can be frustrating when the part isn't available. I took a closer look at the parts diagram for these sorts of humidifiers and the hose isn't even listed: www.amresupply.com/lookup/238026/1613266 Instead of finding an exact OEM replacement part there is a different route you can take. There are rubber and clear hoses available online and in some stores that could work as there is nothing inherently special about a line like that. If you measure the inside and outside diameter you should be find a match and use it as a replacement. If you can find a supply shop that has a roll of bulk hose they'll usually sell it by the foot so you can cut the length that is needed and go from there. You'd be searching for a small black rubber hose or clear vinyl or pvc soft tubing. Its likely going to be 1/4" ID but make sure you measure to be certain. Hope this helps!
I had T&G heating cooling change my solenoid valve last week London Ontario. He charged me $170 just for the part $70 for the service call and 2 hrs labor because he said he did not have the solenoid valve in his truck. Charged me for the time he took to order it pick it up and drive back. $360
Hi Rob, thank you for watching. There are no standards when it comes to HVAC repair and labor rates so companies will charge what they want depending on the circumstances. In many cases this can add up which is why more homeowners are ordering the parts and doing the repairs themselves.
@@AmreSupply yes the funny thing is T G Heating & Cooling lost any further business with me. He did my install for my home AC and was my go to for furnace inspection and repair. I even asked him to give me a price on a new water tank on the last visit. I’ve been using TG for 17 years But no more. Turning a 30 min job into a $400 job which involves a $90 part was the last straw for this guy.
Hi Alberto thank you for watching! The replacement part 50041883-002 www.amresupply.com/part/50041883-002 is for AC Solenoids and is compatible with the Honeywell HE100C model. If you need a DC Solenoid then its www.amresupply.com/part/50041883-001# In the future if you ever need to know what part is compatible with your model, then enter the model number into our website as you can view parts breakdowns such as this page: www.amresupply.com/lookup/238031/1613271#diagram We have 1000's of parts breakdowns linked in our website on many different products. Appliances, motors, furnaces, plumbing just to name a few. Cheers
Thats a great question Multicultural Radio. It doesn't matter which wire is connected to white/ black. Switching the wires on a solenoid will not affect how the solenoid valve operates.
Here's the problem. A new solenoid is CAN$80 - CAN$100. It's a coil and a magnet for crying out loud. A new humidifier is $180 - $220 depending on the capacity.
Hi Derek, thank you for your feedback. This is a point of consideration on most repairs, it doesn't matter if you are repairing a car, a fridge or a furnace, the sum of all the individual parts bought separately will always be more than the cost of a brand new unit, but for many people the cost of the individual part is worth it to get it fixed.
HI bukanoy13, For this specific model, no, the water to the humidifier doesn't continuously flow. The water flows if demand from the humidistat is there. If water is continuously flowing, the solenoid could be stuck in the open position, rather than controlling it properly. Hopefully this helps. If you have anymore questions, please feel free to give us a call at 1-800-661-9891. Thanks! Rachael
Thank you guys for the time yes i appreciate it. We have the RF5000 honeywell humidifier i just notice last night that the water continuously flowing, so i am worried and i tried to search in youtube and it leads me to your video. Very informative, now i understand why that water continuously flowing through and it stop on the right time. Awesome and thank you and have a blessed New Year 2017.
Hi there - thanks for posting this video this has been super helpful. I was able to install the unit and seems like it’s back and running. I was wondering if it’s normal for the humidifier to show high humidity value? It keep showing my house is around 50% but I know in Colorado there is no way we are at that level…
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help. 50% is still within a normal range. Here in Edmonton Alberta, we're around 40 - 50% humidity indoors in October. In the middle of winter the indoor humidity tends to drop below 40% without a humidifier.
@@tian2339 Yes you are right, as long as the pads are wet the it will add moisture into the air. As well, you can adjust the damper for more or less moisture.
@@AmreSupply Hi there - coming back for more questions. Now that I am officially entering the dry season, it seems like according to the controller reading I would never get to the level I set to (40% set, the controller installed at the return air would show 30%). I have also installed a new EcoBee controller, which tells me my room humidity, that only reads around 24%. Couple of things i have checked: - I have the fan running 25 mins/hr so that i can get the humidity coming through. - My damper at the humidifier is all the way open. - I have also been checking my pads they are wet all the time. With that being said - is there a problem with my setup? Or it's just the environment I am in is too dry for the humidifier even get to that level i set? Thank you so much for the help in advance!
I had my solenoid valve replaced earlier in the season, and I'm still having issues where the water distribution tray doesn't fill fully due to weak flow. As a result, my humidity levels never reach the desired amount. Is it possible that the rubber tubing or water outlet at the top of the pad is the issue?
Thanks for watching. There could be a calcium buildup in one of the tubes or the distributor. You could try isolating the tubing and cleaning / flushing it out.
@@tian2339 Thanks for watching. It can be difficult to thoroughly clean the solenoid valve. Depending on the valve there might be a rubber o-ring but using vinegar to soak or flush can help and shouldn't damage any seals. You can use a q-tip to try to clean out any debris.
I would say don’t buy the Honeywell Humidifier as it’s a ripoff. My solenoid valve is stuck open and the unit comes with a cheap saddle vale which is not recommended as per house code. Paying 50% the cost of the unit for one part is a joke. It’s a $20 part
Thanks for watching. Most humidifiers come with a saddle valve but its best to get a ball valve installed. As well solenoids do fail over time and most humidifiers that use solenoids that are of a similar design but still have unique mounting hardware, the price of the parts is largely determined on stock and what is available from the manufacture. In some cases it makes sense to replace the part, in others just replacing the unit is the best way to go.
Thank you so much for presentation dude.
You're welcome Bhavin!
is there any good way of troubleshooting the solenoid prior to swapping?
Thanks for watching. The solenoid can fail mechanically or electrically. You can test the solenoid for continuity to see if the coils have failed. You can see more here: czcams.com/video/Mdu7QlAzWOg/video.htmlsi=Qq49E1uSHnp86TE0&t=169
Do you have a video on how to install the humidifier
Hi Francisco, Unfortunately we do not have a video for installation. We do have installation instructions available on our website at www.amresupply.com however. Thanks! - Rachael
Anyone know where we can get just the tubing/valve? The coil and actual solenoid/winding/plunger/piston seem to be fine but I can't clean all of the gunk out of the tubing. It shouldn't be a $90 replacement if the most expensive part is not even broken...
Thanks for watching. You can get tubing here: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Polyvinyl-Polyethylene-PGB4 and www.amresupply.com/catalog/Tubing-HI42
As for the valve leading out of the solenoid, it is normally sold with the solenoid, we don't list it as an individual part. www.amresupply.com/lookup/238028/1613268#diagram
Hope this helps!
Where does the inline cone screen/filter go when replacing solenoid? Which way is it inserted ?
Thanks for watching. You can see how to replace the filter in this video czcams.com/video/h7DjR5akhDg/video.html
The part is on back order from Honeywell, is there a way to bypass the solenoid and manually turn it on or off.
Thanks for watching. If the solenoid as failed then you could technically bypass it by connecting the small hose directly to the inlet. In that case you'll get water flowing over the humidifier pad 100% of the time. If you have a T-fitting and a ball valve supplying water to the humidifier then you can just open the valve as needed. If you have a saddle valve like shown in the video, its not recommended to open and close it daily as its more prone to leaking.
@@AmreSupply Thanks - we are in Canada - Honeywell does not have the part and we are at 10% humidity so I think bypassing it manually may not be a bad idea - just a pain but at least we will sleep better and not be so dry. Thanks for your help.
@@ElliotFinkelman AMRE Supply has the solenoid in stock. You can either pick it up in one of our 12 stores across canada or we will can ship it to you directly. If your solenoid is connected to DC power then it will be this part: www.amresupply.com/part/50041883-001# If your solenoid is connected to AC power then you'll want to order this part: www.amresupply.com/part/50041883-002 Hope this helps!
Anyone know what resistance this solenoid should test at? Ours stopped working and solenoid is testing around 15 ohms. The copper tubing doesn't seem to come apart to look inside to see if there's an internal issue/blockage.
Thanks for watching. 15 Ohms is an acceptable resistance for a solenoid valve like this. You are right that it is difficult to check for blockages. Are you able to hear the valve click and open when it runs? If it does then that's verification that it is opening. If you don't hear a click when there is a call for humidity then it could be an internal issue preventing it from opening.
@@AmreSupply Thanks for responding, it doesn't click at all. So my guess is there is something wrong with the "plunger" system inside the copper tubing. Will have to look at replacing the whole package.
@@gs98999 You're welcome, we're just happy to help. In these cases the replacement of the solenoid can be necessary as there isn't a ideal way of taking apart a solenoid without damaging it.
@@AmreSupply the solenoid wires read 15ohm perfectly. The value is stuck open. What could be the reason of this issue?
@@hiteshbhardwaj000 A continuity test will show you if the solenoid coil has failed electrically but doesn't tell you what has failed mechanically. If the valve is stuck open it could because of sediment, the spring might be broken or it just might be jammed. If it has failed mechanically then the solenoid valve will need to be replaced.
I replaced the solenoid last week but have a slow drip coming from the distributor tube. Not sure if it was sliced or cracked when TG heating did the solenoid replacement. How do I replace the black tube or any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks
Thanks for watching. You are right that a bad connection on the distributor tube can cause leaking. You can see the connection above the humidifier pad by opening up the front panel. This is indirectly shown here: czcams.com/video/h7DjR5akhDg/video.html
@@AmreSupply I need the 24 inch water feed hose for the Honeywell He 100 can you order me one and tell me what the price is please. I can do curb-side pick up or when is the store gonna be open to the public ? Thanks Rob in London ontario
@@Rob-ob3sh The best thing is to call our customer care center @ 1-800-661-9891 and have the model number ready or place an order through our website: amresupply.com/ The London branch currently has curbside pickup as well you can also order the part to be shipped directly to your home if needed.
@@AmreSupply thank you but I had no luck. I contacted the 1800 number they could not help and passed me on to the local store but nobody would pick up so 1800 person said just go into the store, I went into the store today and the counter person could not track down the part and recommended I get the part used by calling a hvac repair technician LoL. I truly doubt I’m gonna have luck doing that. I’ve been to Rona and Home Depot. No luck I can’t believe I can’t get a $20 feedtube nozel hose and clips. Do you guys have any ideas to help me get this part ?
@@Rob-ob3sh It can be frustrating when the part isn't available. I took a closer look at the parts diagram for these sorts of humidifiers and the hose isn't even listed: www.amresupply.com/lookup/238026/1613266
Instead of finding an exact OEM replacement part there is a different route you can take. There are rubber and clear hoses available online and in some stores that could work as there is nothing inherently special about a line like that. If you measure the inside and outside diameter you should be find a match and use it as a replacement. If you can find a supply shop that has a roll of bulk hose they'll usually sell it by the foot so you can cut the length that is needed and go from there. You'd be searching for a small black rubber hose or clear vinyl or pvc soft tubing. Its likely going to be 1/4" ID but make sure you measure to be certain.
Hope this helps!
I had T&G heating cooling change my solenoid valve last week London Ontario. He charged me $170 just for the part $70 for the service call and 2 hrs labor because he said he did not have the solenoid valve in his truck. Charged me for the time he took to order it pick it up and drive back. $360
Hi Rob, thank you for watching. There are no standards when it comes to HVAC repair and labor rates so companies will charge what they want depending on the circumstances. In many cases this can add up which is why more homeowners are ordering the parts and doing the repairs themselves.
@@AmreSupply yes the funny thing is T G Heating & Cooling lost any further business with me. He did my install for my home AC and was my go to for furnace inspection and repair. I even asked him to give me a price on a new water tank on the last visit. I’ve been using TG for 17 years But no more. Turning a 30 min job into a $400 job which involves a $90 part was the last straw for this guy.
Thank you for the demo. Is this replacement part good for Honeywell HE100C model?
Hi Alberto thank you for watching! The replacement part 50041883-002 www.amresupply.com/part/50041883-002 is for AC Solenoids and is compatible with the Honeywell HE100C model. If you need a DC Solenoid then its www.amresupply.com/part/50041883-001#
In the future if you ever need to know what part is compatible with your model, then enter the model number into our website as you can view parts breakdowns such as this page: www.amresupply.com/lookup/238031/1613271#diagram We have 1000's of parts breakdowns linked in our website on many different products. Appliances, motors, furnaces, plumbing just to name a few.
Cheers
Both wires are blue. Does it matter which wire is connected to white/black?
Thats a great question Multicultural Radio. It doesn't matter which wire is connected to white/ black. Switching the wires on a solenoid will not affect how the solenoid valve operates.
Here's the problem. A new solenoid is CAN$80 - CAN$100. It's a coil and a magnet for crying out loud. A new humidifier is $180 - $220 depending on the capacity.
Hi Derek, thank you for your feedback. This is a point of consideration on most repairs, it doesn't matter if you are repairing a car, a fridge or a furnace, the sum of all the individual parts bought separately will always be more than the cost of a brand new unit, but for many people the cost of the individual part is worth it to get it fixed.
Except these stop working atleast once a season and you need a new one. Lol
Hi Nick? I have quick question for you.... is the water of the humidifier is continuously flow and it will not stop?
HI bukanoy13, For this specific model, no, the water to the humidifier doesn't continuously flow. The water flows if demand from the humidistat is there. If water is continuously flowing, the solenoid could be stuck in the open position, rather than controlling it properly. Hopefully this helps. If you have anymore questions, please feel free to give us a call at 1-800-661-9891. Thanks! Rachael
Thank you guys for the time yes i appreciate it. We have the RF5000 honeywell humidifier i just notice last night that the water continuously flowing, so i am worried and i tried to search in youtube and it leads me to your video. Very informative, now i understand why that water continuously flowing through and it stop on the right time. Awesome and thank you and have a blessed New Year 2017.
Hi there - thanks for posting this video this has been super helpful. I was able to install the unit and seems like it’s back and running.
I was wondering if it’s normal for the humidifier to show high humidity value? It keep showing my house is around 50% but I know in Colorado there is no way we are at that level…
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help. 50% is still within a normal range. Here in Edmonton Alberta, we're around 40 - 50% humidity indoors in October. In the middle of winter the indoor humidity tends to drop below 40% without a humidifier.
@@AmreSupply Thanks - so as long as my pads are wet and i can hear the system pulling water, the system should be working, right?
@@tian2339 Yes you are right, as long as the pads are wet the it will add moisture into the air. As well, you can adjust the damper for more or less moisture.
@@AmreSupply Hi there - coming back for more questions. Now that I am officially entering the dry season, it seems like according to the controller reading I would never get to the level I set to (40% set, the controller installed at the return air would show 30%).
I have also installed a new EcoBee controller, which tells me my room humidity, that only reads around 24%. Couple of things i have checked:
- I have the fan running 25 mins/hr so that i can get the humidity coming through.
- My damper at the humidifier is all the way open.
- I have also been checking my pads they are wet all the time.
With that being said - is there a problem with my setup? Or it's just the environment I am in is too dry for the humidifier even get to that level i set?
Thank you so much for the help in advance!
I had my solenoid valve replaced earlier in the season, and I'm still having issues where the water distribution tray doesn't fill fully due to weak flow. As a result, my humidity levels never reach the desired amount. Is it possible that the rubber tubing or water outlet at the top of the pad is the issue?
Thanks for watching. There could be a calcium buildup in one of the tubes or the distributor. You could try isolating the tubing and cleaning / flushing it out.
@@AmreSupply how do we clean the solenoid if it has calcium built up?
@@tian2339 Thanks for watching. It can be difficult to thoroughly clean the solenoid valve. Depending on the valve there might be a rubber o-ring but using vinegar to soak or flush can help and shouldn't damage any seals. You can use a q-tip to try to clean out any debris.
I would say don’t buy the Honeywell Humidifier as it’s a ripoff. My solenoid valve is stuck open and the unit comes with a cheap saddle vale which is not recommended as per house code. Paying 50% the cost of the unit for one part is a joke. It’s a $20 part
Thanks for watching. Most humidifiers come with a saddle valve but its best to get a ball valve installed. As well solenoids do fail over time and most humidifiers that use solenoids that are of a similar design but still have unique mounting hardware, the price of the parts is largely determined on stock and what is available from the manufacture. In some cases it makes sense to replace the part, in others just replacing the unit is the best way to go.