Zip System - Pro Tips incl Liquid Flash + Zip-R
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- čas přidán 7. 12. 2017
- In this video, Doug will show you all the install tips to do "Zip 2.0" as Matt has coined it. This episode will show you Zip-R sheathing, and using Liquid Flash to build a very tight house!
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Huge thanks to our Show sponsors USG/Tremco, Polywall, Huber, Dorken Delta, Prosoco, Marvin Windows, Roxul & Endura for helping to make these videos possible! These are all trusted companies that Matt has worked with for years and trusts their products in the homes he builds.
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Amazing details. Love how you guys are spreading best practices.
I would love to see Doug’s process for detailing his roof sheathing.
For that small percentage of people living in their old house rehabilitation and considering using Zip System: Living in a house produces moisture not found in an ordinary construction site. You can certainly use the Zip system but keep in mind that as soon as you install insulation ( one of the many things done "out of order" in a live while you work setting) Be sure to fully cover the insulation with vapor barrier and sealing tape right away to prevent mold growth on the inside of the Zip panels during cold weather even if you will be removing the insulation for wiring, etc. later.
Love it Matt. Great house from pretty common materials.
THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH for this particular video. we've been waiting for a detailed video for installing zip caulking!!!
I really want to try this one out! I love the simplicity. Thanks for the great video as always.
Such a great and valuable video. Thank you for your knowledge. It’s great to see men doing quality work. Again, thank you!
Installing all this caulk over the plywood ,what helps the house breathe and let off gases from the products. I remember awhile back about covering up to muck plywood when sealing around windows that it caused rot from the inside out.
Your sealed up homes should have an ERV installed to control fresh air and heat/cooling loss
Great content! Love the videos. Thank you.
John Seelman thanks, i’ve been watching Matt’s videos for years, still do!
Very welcome!
DesignBuildDoug do you have a you tube channel?
I enjoy your content. I will be building a house in Florida within the next 2 years. I would love to have you do it!
Sounds great! Non transferrable to the next home owner! Awesome!
Loved the video. Great stuff! How are you air sealing the roof? How are you air sealing the wall to roof connection?
Great video & practice. 90% of builders would never take the time to be this thorough
Most would if clients would pay for it.
ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Nope
ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Budget is set ahead of time, if any builder isn’t willing to do work they can take pride in then they shouldn’t be builders.
Informative video. I would like to know exactly how the bottom of the sheathing was sealed near the sill?
Matt, you make my head hurt! You give us so many great ideas I get part way through building and I'm like STOP Matt's got something new, and the crew just hang their heads, and I'm just building a chicken coop. But it's gunna water tight!
Ha! Love it
Ooaugh!
What's your thoughts on this Liquid Flashing on regular OSB??? THANKS
Great video. I like the notion of building two hundred year homes but i wonder about modern materials. I cant imagine the adhesives in the osb lasting that long. at some point, im guessing, it will crumble and need to be replaced
Hey Matt, What type of challenges occur when using this insulated sheathing in terms of window & door jambs? I imaging you will be left to custom “manually” extended window and door jambs with trim material? Meaning that most name windows like Anderson can be ordered for standard 2x4 or 2x6 exterior wall construction.
How are you detailing the outside corners?
I am building in the next year in Amarillo, TX. Are you not taping the seams as well? Also wondering if the R sheathing with traditional insulation would be as effective as spray foam insulation to cut cost of heating/AC? Thx!
I think that dude fell in love with that tube of zip caulk
hey Matt do I have to apply a vapour barrier on the inside of a zip r sheathed wall if I'm using roxul batts inside and or should I spray foam the perimeter of the stud cavity first? or just fill cavity with spray foam itself?
So, I just started building again after 16 plus years. I am going to use this on my next house. However, if you are bricking, what about the brick ties that the contractor puts on after all of this sealing was done? How would you seal for those nails on the brick ties?
Thanks for sharing Doug.
I don't think it's economically feasible for the spec build I have coming up, but I would like to try this system for my personal build.
Marko makes sense, thanks for watching & commenting!
Using superior products on a spec house would be a hard sell I think. Your average customer is not likely to understand the benefits of the engineered systems that Matt is using on a house already built. I’m pretty sure they would be suspicious of the additional expense. Showing his CZcams videos would be a great sales tool though. Having a customer who’s involved in the design process and making the final choices, I would definitely try to steer them towards all of Matt’s methods. It would be like it was their idea. Mr and Mrs so and so; you’re brilliant!
@@Stevieray77 and that is a very sad thing
I don’t know how they do the roof deck. I imagine the same way. But the walls to the roof…these guys are mostly doing conditioned attics. Bringing the sheathing right up right to the rafters and cutting them so they slip up. Then use this to seal it all. Or caulk with zip tape over it. They have videos on it. Then spray foam the cavity inside too
Question from a non-builder, if you used liquid flashing on the joins of the external rigid foam insulation like that used on the 'Perfect Wall' Farmhouse would a membrane still be needed? Would using liquid flashing on the OSB sheathing joins provide a better airtight barrier than tape?
How does this product compare to using PolyWall over a similar unsealed osb/foam option?
Where can I buy this product? I'm looking and seems like no one has it in Jacksonville Florida.
Hi Matt,
We are looking to do a new build in Dallas TX. Many new builders don’t us green zip sheeting board. Why is that? Should I worry if a builder doesn’t offer it?
What happens when you nail siding on top of the Zip? Nail holes there?
Any rough idea how many board feet a 20 oz sausage tube is good for? About to use this to seal 52 4x8 Zip panels and have no idea how many to buy
Matt, enjoy your videos. What would you do if you wanted to clad the Zip R sheathing system with a stone veneer, hardie plank combo? Northern California climate zone 3.
Put in an air gap between zip and your cladding
Matt,
Thanks for all the info...much appreciated. Question: Since this system is so tight, how do I install siding (cedar or cement board claps) without compromising all the great sealing that has been done?
Exactly, you can't! As for windows, i perfer to always flash out over closest siding course, this system keeps everything behind at every window, "sleep tight", ha good one.
There is a difference from nail heads and the body of the nail. When you nail siding, you nail shaft is somewhat self sealing and has a small footprint. It makes a clean hole. The nail heads should be sealed because they often leave larger and damaged holes, if they ar not sunk the perfect amount. The two types of hold are apples and oranges.
@@miragesmack007 Thanks for the explanation. It makes sense.
I use a siding nailer hot dipped 2" nails well dialled in never had a problem
Nice job and all, but just curious, what do you do when you go to put up siding, or have to drill and attach masonry facade anchors? The nails and screws have now perforated your system.
Why wouldn't they just liquid flash over/around it like every other gap or hole?
Matt,
We would like to install the zip process but I have concerns during the sub freezing temps. What temps will the zip caulk be limited to.
Todd
Hi Matt I am building a house in southern Ontario Canada I would like to know if I use the ZIP R SHEETING with the tape on all joints 2X6 STUD Wall with ROCK WOOL insulation do you still use 6 mill Polly inside over the rock wool insulation
The zip-r system sounds intriguing, however, I am concerned about the overall strength of the structure vs. Plywood directly to studs, wood to wood. It just seems there would be a significant loss in strength by fastening a foam backed product to wood. I would like to see those different systems in a strength comparison.
There is a loss there, should be discussed with your structural engineer and if there is a concern extra bracing can be added to the framing to make up for the lost shear of the panels
Any concerns about off gassing?
Matt thank you! Can you address the folks who say water and air tight barriers may cause condensation please? I am so confused! lol, thank you!
Doug looked like he wanted to handle Matt's sausage pack if you know what I mean! 😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣
Can you stucco over the zip or do you need to add any other barriers???
Shots fired at the framers
I love it, ive used the caulking before it’s awesome, something that crossed my mind is could you make a house too tight??
No such thing as too tight of you have an HRV/ERV or controlled fresh air. There are options out there
Downside of tight homes is you then need expensive HVAC systems to maintain air quality.
Can the Milwaukee battery Caulk Gun Be used with the Zip sausage tube liquid flash?
Hello, Could I use this on the bottom 4-1/2 feet of my post on a pole barn post?
What’s the cost difference/easy of install vs zip wall taping joints?
So is Doug not using any tape at all? How does the product cost of the Liquid Flash compare to the cost of Zip Tape?
I'm also curious about the Zip panel with 2" rigid foam...how is that being secured to the wall studs? Certainly not with nails? I would think with 3-1/2" GRK screws or similar??
I was wondering what will happens to that caulking during settling and high winds, these houses with wood framing flex and vibrate a lot. There will sure be movement between those panels joints. IMO tape like Tescon Vana by Proclima would do a better lasting job at a similar cost.
I recently watched a few other vids of Tyvek system. They slammed this product, which I believe is superior, but in their test, they used tape, and never mentioned the ambient air temps, just showing all the leaks. But the did not go all the ‘staples’ used. I was understanding not to used staples because of pressure puncture holes? Can you pls clarify the correct proceedings and cost involved? Thx.
What surface area does one sausage tube of zip liquid flash cover?
Could you roll on tar instead?
Can some one explain me please what a through wall flashing detail and through wall flashing tape are?
Doug mentions it at the beginning of his explanation. I am not a builder so lack some basic stuff.
Liquid flash vs the zip seam tape. Which one is more efficient / cost effective?
What about the sider putting holes in it
@dougdesignbuild Great Video! Really has me thinking about the house we're building this coming spring for my growing family (baby due in February). I have a couple questions about what you've shown here:
1. How many 20 oz tubes of Zip Liquid Flash are consumed Zip Panel installed? (I need to install ~120 zip panels, how many tubes should I expect to buy?
2. Did you have to use custom windows with the Zip R-Sheathing due to the extra thickness of the sheathing layer? Standard 6 9/16" windows would not be thick enough correct?
Thank you for sharing these innovative techniques!
Thanks for the feedback & encouragement Noah Young!
1- expect to get about 3 LF per ounce, so 1 28 oz caulking tube/sausage should get you through 3 to 4 panels...do a similar equation for each window opening.
2- using the zip R on our #InglewoodProject (in the video), we chose to make our windows “innies”, attaching the flange directly to 2 x studs, waterproofing via liquid flash, then going back over the flange with thin (approx 2” rips) strips of zip R to keep our cladding plane continuous.
Hope that helps, & best of luck with your build!
Doug, 3 to 4 28oz tubes for panel seams and nails?
And the bottoms of the panels?
Can you put a fiberglass mesh on the seam to reinforce the strength of the sealant? I imagine the house settling in the long term and opening many of those seams and letting in water.
I was wondering about the same.
Not mentioning that during high winds, these houses with wood framing flex and vibrate a lot. There will sure be movement between those panels joints. IMO tape like Tescon Vana by Proclima would do a better lasting job at a similar cost.
Can this product be used on my roof
Matt what type of coverage do you get out of the larger tube? I have a 2400 sq ft house, and we are using zip. Just curious how many tunes of liquid flash we are going to need? Thanks for any help you can share!!
@@DR-um2bv you will use alot!!a lot!!! I ended up doing all my exposed nails and not just the seams. I ended up using the tape to cover all exposed nails and seams. I did liquid flash all the windows
8th gap? Doesn't Zip have slotted sides to mate the two panels together?
Do you need a vapor barrier if you use ZIP-R sheathing?
Matt, is Liquid flash better than Zip tape for the panel joints? Or just different?
Better
Hey Matt Risinger, how does Doug get that 'board formed' concrete foundation look? I can't imagine his foundation contractor is actually board forming the foundation. Thanks.
It's common to use standard lumber to form stem walls. Those aren't 'architectural' boards that have been sandblasted to expose grain - just standard 2x10s (or whatever) slapped together. Cheap and easy. Can reuse them over and over, but obviously not as durable as steel forms.
How long can an unprotected zip stay weather? i am talking about a 12" thick foam covered in osb. Like they have in Pure living for live channel.
Paul Lavoie they used SIPs, structural insulated panels. Different from this Zip system, which is a brand name from Huber. If I were the pure living couple, I’d at least house wrap the building and not count on the osb to stand up to the elements for 6 months or more.
With such an eye for important detail, I want *Doug* to build my new house... how does this happen?
You guys really know your caulk.
Beautiful... Then what happens with siding overtop of this, with thousands of screws going through it all?
vwecco1 Mark said elsewhere that is house is brick exterior, and the mason and his crew were to go over the fastener punctures with a bead of sealant.
Yes, it would be great to see if that would affect blower door results after a house like this received siding instead of brick.
Wouldn't nails and screws also penetrate through a standard house wrap/ sheathing combination?
Is the liquid flash just roofing cement or is it a vastly different product? What do you think would happen if you applied roofing cement to zip?
Much different product. Zip liquid flashing is a STPE-based material, pioneered in Japan to seal windshields to car bodies. The nice thing is it uses air moisture to cure so it can be applied on damp surfaces (as is common during framing) and low/temps where tapes have hard time adhering.
It is relatively expensive though - looking at ~$25/sausage and you'd be looking at many dozens of sausages to do Zip 2.0. But Zip tape isn't cheap either, so added cost to get a superior result seems money well-spent (particularly if you can get low-cost labor to install vs paying framers).
Fwiw, Henry has a similar STPE product (Air Bloc LF) that I've seen as low as ~$14/sausage that they use in conjunction with their wrb products (and I would be perfectly happy to use it on Zip sheathing). Looking at Henry vs Zip lquid flashing side by side, about the only difference I notice is the color (black vs blue). Prosoco and PolyWall also have similar liquid/flashing products but are about the same cost as Zip. Henry is never mentioned on The Build Show since it's not a sponsor (unlike Zip, Prosoco and PolyWall).
In this "Zip 2.0" system, the only thing I'd change is the interior caulking around the windows for the air barrier. Liquid flashing remains flexible but isn't as flexible as an air barrier caulk and I don't think it performs well with larger gaps. I'd use Sika 510 AM or Prosoco AirDam which are roughly similar cost - always in conjunction with an appropriate backer rod.
Could you provide the same water and air sealing with the Prosoco or Polywall products?
Like to know that as well. I'm sure that's a void to the warranty though.
I know this video is old, but i was wondering. You emphasize sealing all seams, joints, exposed edges and even nail holes on Zip Board. But what happens when you drive thousands of nails and staples into it installing siding products?
I had the same question
the same thing that happen to house wrap a bunch of holes these systems just minimize the air flow as much as possable untill someone comes out with a selfsealing membrane it will remain the same
Reco Blade They have peel and stick systems on the market that self seal. Pricey though.
nails don't really break the seal unless the head of the nails is driven below the seal. or completely backs out. So siding is not an issue until nails start falling out of your siding. same with water penetration. water won't be a problem unless some of your nails have crushed thru the membrane. siding shields nails from the water. In other words, a nail in the membrane is a plug. remove the plug and you have a hole.
@@Lilmiket1000 another words your saying if you build it correctly with some craftsmanship you wont have any trouble.
Any data on what the long-term stability of the liquid applied product is? I wonder in 10-20 years if it will start to crack on the window sill seems or other filled gaps and allow moisture in. How long has this product been around?
its probably an stpe product.
its been around long enough.
Super-stretchy solvent-free moisture-cured modified poly-ethers (aka the premium fluid applieds) have been around for many years and are a proven technology. Prosoco was the pioneer & Dupont is now heavily invested as well. Lots of R&D shows these poly-ether products hold up really well for a really long time. The construction industry is simply extremely conservative when it comes to change; that’s exactly why you have not seen more of this yet. You will though, its coming.
@timothymanley: modified silicones have the elasticity of silicon but there is still the issue of tear resistance so not all stpe's are equal.
I would love to use zip R sheathing, but I know that in the perfect wall concept the rigid insulation is outside of the sheathing. Are there and potential problems caused by putting the sheathing outside the rigid foam? I live in a colder part of the Rockies.
Joseph Hale My opinion is that it is the same concept, just less steps.
in several of risiinger's videos he gives a disclaimer that the stuff that he is doing is based on his construction environment. he advises that you do you own investigation to determine what works in your construction environment. that is good advice, which should be carefully heeded. the approaches that cameron is using here might work well in south texas, but it might be a *huge* mistake to assume that the zip r-sheathing approach shown in this video is going to work in a more continental climate, such as the one that you describe. you would help yourself greatly in making sure that you REALLY understand what objectives that you want to achieve in using exterior insulation because it will help you to make a better decision. going back to risinger's disclaimer language, it is YOUR responsibility to do your own investigation to determine whether this stuff is actually going to work for you - it is not the responsibility of risinger or cameron.
What kind of final wall finish are you planning (i.e., how are you going to seal future fasteners into the sheathing)?
This is a brick house. The Mason or his crew can bed the Brick ties in a bead of sealant
Matt Risinger Yeah, but what if it wasn’t? What if it was an exterior that requires fasteners?
@@ccasanova34 i would be very interested in knowing this as well, what if you dont do a brick wall? hope matt answers
@@ccasanova34 Yeah I need to know this as well. What if you are installing log siding that needs stainless steel nails to fasten?
@@marknadon1237 yeah, answer that Matt
What would you recommend for a central Canadian cold weather climate to use to maintain a water tight exterior but maintaining vapor permeability?
Solitex Mento 1000. Look up 475 Building Supply. Awesome stuff!
@commanderspock: claims of "dead lock for moisture" tend to ultimately fall into the detritus heap of "the best laid plans of men and mice..." NEVER, EVER believe that moisture cannot ever get into a building envelope. the stuff shown in this video may work out in the environment in which cameron is working, but that doesn't mean that it will work out in the environment where you are working.
Just ready to start framing my house and im using zip sheeting and this is exactly what i was thinking about doing except here in NC, sausage of zip liquid flashing is $28 it would cost me $3000 to do this on the whole house. Wanted to get my blower score to passive house standard. You can use Henry Air-Bloc LF® Liquid-Applied Flashing instead of zip flashing, sausage tube is half the price
thanks for this alternative to the Zip liquid flash. They are milking that cash cow at $28 per tube.
@@jesterblackdog ZIP liquid flashing is now $32 FOR ONE SAUSAGE LOL!
Love the details but you might as well jump to a spray on WRB like Polywall at this point
Dens Element has been used this method for a long time, good job though
where can I phrase this product in Michigan ?
Hey Matt, is cross bracing on the framing needed when using the Zip R sheathing method?
Raul P. Nothing changes engineering wise other than using specified fasteners/pattern. It’s pretty remarkable.
Thank you for replying Doug. Did you use the R3 or R6 Zip R Sheathing?
Raul P. My pleasure, R-3
Can Zip Liquid Flash be used as an exterior concrete sealer, such as below grade?
Don't think so. Regardless, liquid flashing would be prohibitively expensive
What do you put under the timber frame between the slab and the bottom plate?
A good detail is a continuous bead of accoustical sealant (preferred because it remains permanently flexible) on the concrete, then use a standard foam sill seal (for a capillary break) then another continuous bead on top of the foam - then put the sill plate on top and bolt to the concrete - the two beads of sealant form a foam sandwich that is air-tight underneath the sill plate.
So if you have to go back and seal all the nail holes, what happens when you attach siding and stick nails/staples into it? Doesn't that compromise the waterproofing? How is the siding attached?
Good point. I’m a non-builder. When furring strips are added, the Zip sheathing will be penetrated. I suppose the exterior siding can be attached only to the furring strips.
@@ShikokuFoodForest I suppose you could glue furring strips to the Zip then attach siding to furring strips, but IDK if I'd trust glue for that...
@@toadamine Thanks for reply. I’m a Canadian living in Japan currently, but starting to design a small cabin I plan to build when I return to Canada. I’m looking for land, researching building science and watching CZcams to learn best practices, since I intend to do the build completely myself. Sure, glue could be used, but securing it in place while glue is curing may be difficult. I don’t expect puncturing the Zip sheathing to attach the furring strips would pose a risk of water penetration since the furring and fasteners will block the holes. Besides the sheathing on top will block water. I believe the risk is in air penetration. I suspect not significant. Could always seal over the furring fasteners later, but likely overkill. Doubt builders take the time to bother with that. I’m already learning, it is easy to get bogged down in details. Still interesting learning process.
Did you do the blow test before siding? How does this method work when siding is nailed on (hundreds of punctures)?
edward nowak Actually it works great. Air-leakage in zip sheathing around siding fasteners is really minimal, we just coat the sheathing fasteners because we can. Here’s a similar install example with half the house being sided prior to the blower door test and still hitting 0.79 ACH-50... czcams.com/video/uiXAVZ3YHRQ/video.html
wouldnt it be better if the foam board was outside of the plywood?
If this stuff was around back in the olden days it would save current homeowners a lot of headaches. There may still be some rot that develops but it wouldn't be nearly as bad as just using tar paper or nothing at all over the sheathing
Is there a special reason that the wall over hangs the foundation?
Could you use this same method with regular osb or plywood?
faststang85 no
When you install your sheeting, aren't you just undoing all the work you did to cover the nails holes with the siding fastener penetrations?
This is my biggest question as well. How are you sealing the fasteners that come when you install siding?
What about the nails from siding?
The asphalt coating on the board is ends up adhering to the nails, keeping the seal, unlike Tyvek.
Matt, my wife and I are currently building our first home here in NE. The builder we chose to go with was using the Zip System when I decided to go with them, but had some issues with sub contractors and is now telling me they can only do Enviro-Dri. Is this a good system, or should I stick with the Zip System if possible? Never seen a list of pros/cons between each system.
I don’t see Zip System in NE. It’s mostly Tyvek here.
Does Zip Warranty apply if you use the liquid flash instead of the tape?
What difference would it make? None of the manufacturer warranties are worth a damn. If you don't follow every single 'recommended' step you'll be denied.
Is there a performance difference between Zip liquid flash and the Zip tape on the joints between sheets? What would prompt a user to choose one over the other?
I think it mostly comes down to trying to make things foolproof. Properly applied and rolled zip tape will hold for many decades, but too many people will not roll, leave wrinkles, apply on wet sheathing, etc. With liquid that's not a worry.
As an architect who has been doing commercial and institutional work for decades, my only question is this. If "sealing" the panel joints is so critical...and the joints must withstand some degree of expansion and movement over time to maintain integrity...how does one get away with doing "smear-over" and no-gap fillet sealant joints. I doubt that Dow or Tremco would endorse treating a truly serious sealant joint this way. These were no-no's 40 years ago even with high performance silicones. You were required to maintain minimum 1/4" joints, use backer rods and if this effort really had value over time, it was definitely not done by the low-man on the totem pole. Does Huber really make "magic goo" that can bridge an 1/8" joint and have it maintain integrity over time? is liquid flash really designed to "bridge" gaps?
BTW, I know of a hi-rise office building in New England where a similar method was use with Dens-Glas and Dow 790. All joints conventionally sealed.
Is there any issues with add tyvek over the zip sheathing
Why would you?
Ok, Heres one I really need answered. I am getting ready to use 80 sheets of ZipSystem sheeting Was going to use Zip Tape thinking I need 24 rolls of the tape But now I watch this in a tube being used and am wondering if I should switch and if the average cost per roll verses Liquid flashing 29oz. tube is better and more cost effective before its to late to change my mind. How many tubers needed verses 24 rolls of tape. Help before its to late
Generally 6 to 7 panels can be sealed with the 29 oz, 4 to 5 panels if you seal every nail. I personally find the fluid applied a bit more expensive but installer screw ups are much harder to make. You miss it or not, nothing hard like the tapes.
Non builder here but about to start private house build. So if someone can’t afford zip or zip r is it still beneficial to caulk all osb seams on the outside walls/nail holes/ roof/where framing connects to foundation and roof/ widows with zip liquid flash or something similar and use a house wrap on top bc it’s osb simply for air sealing purposes? And increased effectiveness of insulation chosen or is that a bad idea?
Like Dolan King said - you pay $8 more for a sheet of zip system vs. standard osb. However, with regular osb you will still have to pay for house wrap, tape, and labor (which will be about $8 a sheet.) You still have to add the cost of tape (or black zip caulk) for the zip system, so overall it does cost more. But, the zip system osb is far superior to regular osb and house wrap, especially if you’re using the black zip caulk instead of zip tape. Not to mention... in a storm where your siding or shingles could be damaged, your house will stay sealed because there’s no house wrap or tar paper to blow off. As far as nail penetrations through the zip membrane - they don’t leak unless the nails are over driven (you can look up pictures of over-driven nails in the zip system). And you could put the black zip caulking over any over-driven nails, and around wall penetrations and windows. Since you’re building your own house - another smart thing to do is to spray the bottom 4’ of framing with Boracare (for termites and other bugs) it’s about $350-$500... it’ll make your house very resistant to termites and any potential rot/mold issues down the road. Also, buy a case of spray foam, and use it around any wall/floor/ceiling penetration. Hope this helps!
To answer your original question, it’s not a bad idea to do those things, but the house wrap is the worst part of the equation - most builders don’t do a great job of installing house wrap, and if your house wrap traps water... the osb will turn into oatmeal (most commonly it happens around windows, doors, and where decks attach to the house).
Lexel calcking is the shit
so cladding / hardie plank would go directly onto this sheathing with no space behind it ? correct ?
You could, but I'd definitely use a simple rain screen, such as Slicker. It's still a good idea to let water run down the wall between the siding and sheathing, rather than get trapped.
No, never, ever place siding directly against any sheathing. ALWAYS install a rain screen.
Is that Zip Liquid Flashing a Tar or Fibered Cement product? If not what is it?
I think he said it's a like foam glue product. similar to the glue they use the glue windshields to the steel frame of a car.
After liquid flashling a solid 12 inches at the bottom, every seam, every penetration and window opening...makes you wonder why not just paint the entire outside with a waterproof membrane like prosoco? A paint roller over everything seems more foolproof and consistent than hand beading and spreading liquid flash inch by inch.
So how does the roof breathe if you run sheathing all the way to the roofing ??
Exactly, seems there fad is about air tight, but are forgetting crucial steps.
It doesn't. They're using spray foam under the roof decking with no allowance for ventilation. Lots of skepticism for this method.
Pimping out schluter and zip systems.
Great video. Matt makes Mike Holmes look like a joke.
Thanks my friend!
I've met that guy at Habitat for Humanity. He did zero work and just mouthed off to the cameras around. I have zero respect for Mike Holmes.