Demo + Hard Questions about Zip System
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- čas přidán 15. 04. 2019
- Zip 2.0 Video - • Zip System 2.0
Flashing Tapes Tested at UT - • Flashing Tapes Tested ...
Big thanks to Tools of The Trade Mag for setting us up with this live Tools Zone demo. Go check their site and subscribe to their fantastic weekly newsletter! www.toolsofthetrade.net/
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The teamwork between you two is awesome. It makes for a smooth and seamless presentation.
Matt.....this is a fantastic video.
The fluid applied is the best way to go....the sausage gun is always been my favorite
I have temporarily become addicted to these videos. Lots of good info if I either remodel an old house or build a new home.
I am doing this right now to my very own Real Rebuild. Your presentations and videos are truly helpful; thank you for doing these!
When I saw the thumbnail I thought you were holding a Magician Stick like Gandalf the Gray used and you were telling the rain “You shall not Pass” I am currently retrofitting my magnificently expensive homes poorly installed Windows because all of them leak. When I find my Contractor I am personally going to feed him the House Wrap with the holes in it he used to ensure the leaks around my windows. Thanks for all you do to educate us.
Don't forget that windshield sees massive temperature variations as well. And by proxy some thermal expansion and retraction over its life.
Love the hands on 🖐 , thanks for the shout homie!
I have no experience in building and I don't plan on getting any either...but even so I find this damn fascinating!
I don't work in construction. But I am having a house built next year and his videos gives me a lot of things I can ask of the general contractor.
lol I just said the same thing
Thanks for the link on the Ribbon nozzle. I ordered a couple to finish up my job!
Fabulous video! I'm a long-time subscriber and fan. I've seen a few junk products showcased. This is a really good video of a really good system. Thanks Matt!
Thanks for taping the demo. informative.
That’s funny you did the build show closer in front of your live audience. Another good video thank you
Building has nothing to do with my life, but I watch ALL of your videos. New building techniques are cool af.
In South America there is a siding system called superboard, they are cementitious plates and natural fibers. One way to install these plates is to leave 6mm to 10mm joint between them and apply polyurethane sealant, much like the video sealer. They are for exterior or interior cover.
Cool stuff Matt. Wish you could come to AL and build my house. Well I wish I could afford it. Lots of great products and ideas I gotten on your channel. Keep up the great work.
Sounds very very interesting, yet another way to charge for sunlight.
Thanks for these great tips and examples.
Ran some numbers on the Zip 2.0 method. According to Huber's Liquid Flash installation manual, a 20oz sausage "covers approximately 50 linear feet when used to seal panel seams." Cost for one 20oz sausage appears to be about $30, based on a Google Shopping search. Assuming a 4X8 panel, this adds up to approximately one sausage for every two panels, or $15/panel. I don't doubt that the Zip 2.0 method is best practice, but know that it won't be cheap. By the way, if anyone has firsthand cost experience or would like to push back on my numbers, please feel free, as I'm taking a shot in the dark here. I realize sausages likely cost less when bought in bulk, and my flashing per panel estimate is broad strokes.
I would like to know if using 5/8'' plywood with Ice and water, peel and stick would be cheaper and better over the Zip sheathing and sealing every nail and joint, since the Ice and Water is supposed to seal anything that penetrates it.
august the problem with ice and water is it doesn’t perm. So if moisture gets into the cavity and you have a vapor barrier inside the house, there it is going to cause damage. Plus ice and water has a short life when exposed to the sun. You would be better off using blueskin because it is made for exterior sheeting.
@@milanroets9697, True. What if it's covered with siding that has an air and water spacing made using furring strips so it can breath ? Would that work ? Thanks.
I agree it's a really great system, but the cost of the sealant is really high. I ended up doing the tape and hitting the sill and over driven nails only with the liquid flash. Just doing those was still $100-200 in sealant.
august it depends on the region of the country you are in. If you are in the Deep South then you do not have to have a WRB that perms if you do not use a vapor barrier. Then you need to have a dehumidifier and good hvac equipment that removes vapor internally. In that case you can get away with an ice and water membrane. I live in the northern part of the US so because we have to have a vapor barrier we need our WRB to have a perm rating to let out vapor. In that case I can out use ice and water on the exterior walls because the per rating is zero.
Nice video. Take care of yourself, Matt.
Wonderful video. Thanks for posting these and all your other videos. ^_^
Hey Matt! Love your videos.
Are there any best practices for plain-old window replacements?
Classic excellent teaching from the Risinger Team!
What do you think about the MTI corrugated strips for siding air gap being applied with a staple? Should there be a concern about the staple into the Zip wall?
The key to all of these systems if proper Ali action and the only way to ensure that is inspection before payment and before the siding goes on. It’s like all of these shower systems. Wedi is Al waterproofed with a polyurethane sealant. One pinhole in your application and it leaks.
do u put caulk behind the window flashing when using the zip liquid flashing?
Hi Matt, good video. One thing you didn't cover on this, what's the open time on the fluid applied? How long can you let it sit before you have to scrape it smooth? I guess that would translate to how long of a bead or how many windows can you apply to before you have to go back and finish it?
Mr Risinger,
Great video answered a lot of my questions on the zip system. There are so many choices out there I was wondering what system you would use if you were building a house for yourself and cost was not a concern? Just in your personal opinion. Also would it ever be feasible to double up with two different systems ie. the zip system and then a painted on system on top of it?
Anyway thanks for doing what you do and happy Easter to you and your family.
This would have made air sealing the my shop so much faster! Thanks Matt, you're a year too late. ; )
great video.
Matt, is there an Air Gap / Rain Screen that you recommend with the Zip system?
I found this website very helpful
hammerandhand.com/best-practices/manual/4-rain-screens/
www.cor-a-vent.com/siding-vent-sv-3.cfm
In 1987 I used 3M ultrafast urethane (SOTA windshield adhesive circa 1987) to glue my license plate on. At the time plates were frequently stolen. Once it set I removed the screws. When the plate was replace by the state because it too old, I could not get that plate off. Vice grips would tear the metal to pieces without getting any of the metal that actually was glued down loose. I wound up using a torch to melt it off. Needless to say, I glued the new plate on too. Yea, I would use this stuff, but would prefer a zero perm peel and stick with a radiant barrier.
I am glad you mentioned the video trashing the zip wall product. It is one of the reasons I stayed away from this product. But I have to say the install for the fluid applied flashing is very slow and this is ideal conditions. What about cold weather applications? I am intrigued though because I want a tighter envelope.
Matt is double dipping on this one
My question is what about the trapped moisture that is on the other side of the panels? Do you run the risk of mildew growing in the wall cavities?
I wonder, could I use this in a basement shower, between a cement floor and the wall sheeting? Tiles will be on the wall but the flooring will be treated cement. I'm trying to find a great way to seal everything properly.
Aren't you supposed to put some goop around the window opening (sides & top) before installing the window?
Can zip flashing tape overlap the fluid applied? For example if I only want to use it for my windows and foundation detail but I want to use tape for my seams. Where the vertical seams run into the fluid applied?
I'm curious. If the osb expands... could it potentially shift the fluid applied out between joints leaving it open for water to seep in?
Thanks
I am still curious about what system would work with the fluid applied to allow the wall cavity to breathe? I would also wonder about down the road if that window frame needs to be removed how that would best be done? I don't think a wire cutter as in the auto trade would go around a right angle..... I would probably feel a little better about the system if it were applied over a true plywood rather than OSB as well. The other factor would be highly important and that is cost per typical sized homes to use fluid applied. Bottom line if you can't afford it it may be the best thing since sliced bread but it won't do you any good. Take care. Doug
Will it bond to a flameretardant Kevlar exterior installated jacket? Need it in huge barrel sized containers. I also wonder is it a rubber type or more like clay that can be sanded, home use version v. automotive use? Is it also flameretardant?
How does this application work for brick veneer with an air gap? I would like to see a detail with liquid flash in this scenario especially details at window heads and at brick ledge.
If after you fluid flashed all the seams, nails, & window & door openings & put a house wrap like Tyvek, would it be beneficial to liquid flash the seams & staples?
Does thinset stick to the exterior and interior of the zip panels?
How apply liquid sealant flange to window.. If the house settles and the window moves will that breaks the bond and create a site where rain can seep in?
isn't there something where you can just roll out on top of plywood or OSB for example? Kinda like RedGuard but for exterior? Seems labour wise and application would be much faster/cheaper?
is it easier to apply the fluid similar to spackling sheetrock
I would have liked to see everyone's faces when he signs off "On The Build Show!"
lol, wondering the same thing
I've been reading lots of comments about the cost of the Zip 2.0 method! I have become addicted to this channel as well. Now, this might sound like a stupid question; but I wonder if Flex Seal would work and would it be cost effective.
I was wondering the same thing and if it would be good for the over driven fasteners. I have seen that flex seal peel up over time though. Not sure if it would hold up long-term.
In exploring home construction technologies a feature I'm looking for is, what I'll call, dummy-proof. Some builders are great, some workers builders hire are great, but many aren't. So, the construction method shouldn't require a high degree of skill and care. Much of this looks straight-forward. It's like drywall and mud, except it's waterproof and made for exterior.
If you don’t seal the weep area under the window how do you air seal that weep area??
очень познавательно. спасибо за информацию.very informative. thanks for the information. (Translated by google translator.)
Silicon is what they make computer chips out of. Silicone is caulk.
Silicone isn't a rubber or oil. It's silicon dioxide and ketones in a chain. With random proprietary extras for sales pitch
For the hardcore pedants:
"F. S. Kipping coined the word silicone in 1901 to describe polydiphenylsiloxane by analogy of its formula, Ph2SiO (Ph stands for phenyl, C6H5), with the formula of the ketone benzophenone, Ph2CO (his term was originally silicoketone). Kipping was well aware that polydiphenylsiloxane is polymeric whereas benzophenone is monomeric and noted that Ph2SiO and Ph2CO had very different chemistry.[2][3] The discovery of the structural differences between Kipping's molecules and the ketones means that silicone is no longer the correct term (though it remains in common usage) and that the term siloxanes is correct according to the nomenclature of modern chemistry.[4]"
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone
So, how does the fluid sausage goo compare to RedGuard? Seems like the same stuff, much easier to acquire
to my knowledge RedGuard is an interior product and would have little to no UV resistance
Redgaurd is the same stpe technology. Red guard has been renamed as fast flash.
If you shim your window and slope your sill, how do you not leave a location for air open penetration?
Weren’t you going to discuss the video on the water flooding of the zip wall?
Matt, can you use the Liquid Flash on other barriers other than Zip?
was wondering the same thing
Is a sill pan still necessary with the liquid flashing?
This is awesome! I am too in the Austin, Texas area. Would be cool to do a internship with you.
I always wonder if I could just buy a 5 gallon bucket of Karnak to do the same thing.
Similar technology to the wedi shower system.
30 year system. So what happens in year 31? What exactly is the 30 year period referring to?
Its The Jordan Show with MATT on the MIC LOL
What solvent is used to remove Zip liquid flashing from hair? =(
...don’t apply the fluid applied material while it’s raining? That’s pretty limiting here in Oregon/Washington. We can’t wait on weather. You used to build here, what’s your thoughts?
Big Mo Big Mo We were wondering the very same.🤔 We purchased a few acres up in the mountains 30 to 45 minutes drive from Klamath Falls, Oregon and currently planning our first build of 4 in total. Main house will be just under a 1000 sq. ft with full length upstairs loft, tilted roof with skylights, 1 main front structural wall going all the way up to the roof, all other walls we were hoping to have insulated glass and insulated glass sliders with decking on both levels. Similar to this build 👉 czcams.com/video/BkUlh1d_tBU/video.html
The other builds will be tiny home vacation rentals. If you are a contractor in Oregon or can recommend a reliable, trustworthy, dependable contractor who is open to eco friendly building please let us know. We would greatly appreciate it.
I just saw a Tyvek commercial that compares itself to Zip.....
What about fluid applied wrb sprayed all the way around on regular osb?
So, you can buy a sausage sized (20oz/600ml) 3M hybrid windshield adhesive fo $18, or the same thing with a Zip logo for $28. Sort of like generic vs. name brand. Though, in this case, the 3M is the name brand...at least in public perception. Would that make “fluid applied” a more viable option?
Is it really the same though? I thought he was making an analogy.
I have a question that may not be answerable. I really like the zip system and think it has the best shot at gaining mainstream use for a number of reasons, but I'm worried about the long term life of the fluid applied flashing. Specifically, how long will the liquid retain its flexibility and not just crack up and dry out? I'm worried the liquid applied stuff will just be worn out within a few decades. I wonder what the blower door tests will be like in 30 or 50 years on zip 2.0 houses.
It is a non brittle product. It remains slightly flexible, like rubber.
When you say "mainstream" do you mean the fluid applied? The Zip system itself is pretty much the only thing in use here. I don't remember the last time I saw something like housewrap on a project anywhere around upstate NY. But most of it is still taped not fluid applied.
@@wgmskiing By mainstream I mean the option for air sealing that becomes the standard. It seems to me that the 2.0 zip style system will end up being the standard over a peel and stick system or other methods. The liquid zip system is much easier and faster to install when compared to peel and stick products but I worry how long the fluid applied will remain flexible and thus air sealed. If it can stay flexible for more than a few decades then I think Zip is the clear winner. If not, then peel and stick or something else to air seal may still have a mainstream future.
@@davidkellers8152 I'm certain it will stay flexible for years, but I'm curious at what point will it finally wear out. Is it 50 years or 500? That's what I'm wondering. It seems like peel and stick or tape products should have an edge, longevity wise, over long periods of time vs fluid applied products.
STPE deterioration can be caused by both heat and light (UV). Used as a flashing in a house where the STPE is covered by other building materials, and especially when covered by thick layers of insulation, the STPE is not going to receive the excesses of UV or heat (even in Texas) that would cause a rapid deterioration. Deterioration will be very slow. If you look to Japanese cars from the 1980s, there is not a problem with windshields become unstuck, and the adhesive has not been protected from heat in that way that it would be under external wall insulation - think how cars bake in the sun. So I think the lifespan will be very good, but as they have only been in existence for 40 years, and used in construction for less than that, there isn't the real world experience to say for certain what an average or typical service life would be.
If you get blower scores that low with this system do you have to add anything to get enough fresh air into the home?
@Ken Tuttle Thanks!
What about the nails or screws from the siding?
Show a "rain screen" used for vinyl siding...
If you leave the bottom of the window unsealed, how is that an air barrier?
You'd then come in from the inside with a backer rod and high quality caulk. It lets the window leak to the pan and dry out, while keeping an air barrier. Matt has some other videos about best practices for backer rod and caulk as well as demos of some caulk shaping tools.
Good commerical .
Anyone know if anybody is supplying this to NZ?
I have been doing some research on this product and have watched several or your videos on it. My question is this. I fully believe this is a great air/water proof system, but what are your thoughts on the non sealed punctures after the cladding such as hardie are installed? It would be interesting to see it with a self healing membrane
No kidding spend a bunch of money to water proof then punch a bunch of holes in it
Why does some zip tape have a peel-off back and other zips do not?
My builder made some errors installing the Zip. The edges are chipped badly (in some areas 3-5 inches) on the corners, can we use the fluid sealant over this area, or are we going to have to take these sheets off and re-do them? He also over drove the nails at least 85% and didn't follow the recommended spacing. The long spacing is too far apart.
Also, we are on a pier and beam foundation, and I'm trying to find how to seal the bottom sill plate. Do you do it in a similar manner as with a slab foundation? If not, can you please provide the link to the instruction for that? I can't seem to find it.
It's 2 against 1 here, and I'm trying to get it done right!
Yes you can use this for all of that.
@@thereefaholic thank you! That guy totally messed up the addition. Attached the siding to the Zip instead of the framing. He used the wrong nails, so they are rusting. The zip is full of holes. 😡😪 so we have to carefully remove the siding and rain screen, then seal all the holes, the reapply the siding and trim
I don’t Ike how most builder who put up the rain screws furring atria just nail it. They do it on roofs as well. All that care and your gonna fill it with holes. Just put a bead of liquid flash or some polyurethane adhesive on the back of the furring strip before you nail it. Or better yet use a synthetic strip (there are several on the market) and seal that before nailing. Same goes for windows, and any exterior window casing, facia boards or anything else. This is pretty much only used on custom homes where the owner is expecting the extra expense. Standard cookie cutter homes or design build expansion renovations are all using their own version of Tyvek and vinyl siding so none of these fancy systems get used.
@@thereefaholic thank you for all the tips!😇🥰
Do they make zip plywood?
I will never use osb ever.
What about the fasteners for your rain screen and/or your siding?
Ryan Mitchell exactly. Fluid applied is clearly much better than the tape, but we are engineering a solution to fix a product prone rotting from water intrusion. A self sealing membrane applied over plywood is superior in my opinion. Not sure the cost of zip is worth the issues than can result from poor installation practices. Plywood is much less prone to fail from moisture. They still build boats from plywood but not OSB.
daversj I really like zip. Way more durable from accidental damage and the wind doesn’t blow it off. I’m just trying to game out how to add my rain screen and seal those holes too
I had the exact same question. If you get an answer let me know
Look at Henry Blue Skin. It is a peel and stick house wrap meant to go over plywood or OSB. Install by overlapping seams, so no taping. It is self adhering so no staple holes. And it is self sealing so when you apply your rain screen no intrusion. There will be problems with Zip down the road. Mark my words. Its to dependent on a flawless installation and what about all the penetrations from the siding? It is also prone to rot if water gets to it.
@@daversj have you used blue skin? I have a few times, it's very thin and not durable imo. I do agree zip is trouble. The fluid applied is way better than the tape but still
All homes should have zip system foam board will cut your energy bill down.
Florida actually has the 3rd most sunny days a year.
But it also rains one day in three, on average.
Matt, What is the cost difference for doing Zip 2.0 Vs Zip 1.0 on a house?
I can tell you my experience. In my area, vendors wanted to only sell a whole box of tape (and roller) which was about $500. I never was going to do tape, but at least I had a cost reference. On the 2.0, I underestimated just how much materials I would use. I got 12 sausage packs first, then ordered an additional 24. I'm not done yet, but I'm prepared to run out again. At $30/tube, I'm currently at double the cost for Zip 2.0 vs 1.0. BUT that number will only get worse if I run out again. Only time will tell.
I should add that my numbers are for materials only. No labor included. I am personally doing the labor on this job. I believe it would have been WAY easier to apply the tape. The fluid applied takes a bit more finessing to get it applied.
About double. See my reply to Winston's comment above for the math if you are interested.
Ok if the Tape is Just as good then I would stick( no pun intended) to the Tape. I could apply the tape to seams and opening 3 times faster then using a caulking gun, a air gun would help some. Now again what’s the Price difference? Because if it’s twice as much and three times Slower, Not really seeing the Benefits, less of coarse you now own stock in the company 😎😎
Which is better brown or green zip?
Only difference is thickness of osb and the color.
I have a question for either Matt or any other house builder why does everyone use nails instead of screws? Is it for time purposes or cost or some other reason?
Faster, cheaper and nails bend instead of snapping.
Shear strength. Screws are made.of high carbon steel and are brittle. Nails aren't and will bend.
Thank both of you i am thinking of building my own home next year and ive been wondering about it because screws have a better grip than nails but I've never seen a video of people using screws so i was wondering about it. And for a last question would wood glue(it would obviously require a ridiculous amount) help prevent racking?
@@owenquinn2161, Yes, an adhesive will help, but if you use Closed Cell spray foam for your insulation, gluing would probably be a waste of time and money as it locks and seals everything together, adds structural strength, some say as high as 30%, has the highest R-Value per inch and is the absolute best way, IMO.
@@owenquinn2161 ring shank nails might be something to look at for better holding strength
You’ve videos are great thanks. Our architect is steering us towards the zip system. I like what I see but I haven’t found anything about what the effect of attaching siding has on the outer green layer. All those nail holes? What can you tell me thanks.
Commenting for same question.. wonder if you can paint like a basement sealer over the zip then paint over that to avoid nail holes... my thoery may seem nutty but so is putting nail holes in a sealed home and then give water an entry..
The thought of this stuff being used alone under a window makes me think of all the other adhesive-depended flashing systems that have failed over the years. It seems like a useful product for securing flashing overlaps, but if I were having a house built, I'd still want some forward-flashed membrane flashing on all the horizontal joints on which the membrane was stronger and/or more resilient than any sealer used around it. Not to say that there is not a way to make this, or silicone for that matter, applied carefully with a blade, serve the same purpose, but I'd be more willing to trust a construction crew to get membrane flashing (which should be obvious when applied incorrectly) right than something out of a tube, especially when it's Friday and they are running just a little short of tubes.
We should use it on showers 🚿 as water proofing
No
Yes
Check out the Wedi system. It is what I had used for my shower. Very similar sausage-tube sealant approach.
Andrew Theurer I am familiar with shower systems. I have installed various systems except hot mop and or floating. If this product does what it says I don’t see why it could not be used inside a shower
Seems just like redguard though I'm sure redguard is optimized for wet enclosures
It sounded like you said silicon when you meant silicone
Whatever
I wonder how difficult it would be to remove a window when that liquid flashing was used ….hm
Razor knife
no one cuts a hole for a hose bibb with a sawzall. There would be nothing to screw it to if you did that.
I've seen plumbers wack-a-hole with a claw hammer for small pipes in OSB. "Let the sider make it look pretty."
@@stipcrane yeah some hacks do that shit but screws will still sorta grab, if you use a sawzall to try and cut a hole the screws definitely won't grab because the hole will be far too large
What about using house wrap in conjunction with zip?
The Zip system IS the house wrap.
Does Matt not know the difference between silicone and silicon? Silicon is for computers...
Seal A CON... Seal a Cone?
at $20-$30/tube why not use Blackjack if you really insist on making a mess
My main question is that well over a couple years ago you showed some demo as of tyvek liquid applied and there are several others on the market now that have been around since 2010. It seems this method of liquid applied is definitely more modern. But why not skip the Huber altogether and just liquid flash the whole wall with tyvek liquid or some other product very similar. I've run the numbers using non-zip advantech sheathing and used a sprayer with a liquid applied it would be far more cost-effective than this tedious method that seems a bit dated. This still seems far behind the curve and terms of what's possible.
Your helper needs some gogo juice😜
7:30 silly khan
Actually you should move away from stick frame
What do you think we should move to?
i feel like i'm watching the office