Restoration - Stanley 60 1/2 Block Plane + 1 yr of videos
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- čas přidán 10. 10. 2020
- Well, we did it. I stuck with making these restoration videos for a year. I'm surprised too. Decided to try a new type of intro and outro.
Thanks to the Too's for allowing me to use their music. - Jak na to + styl
Outstanding job bud... if you don’t like it, you could always send it to me😁
Thanks Da...I mean Rusty. You still in Arlen?
Nice tool and job thanks for sharing and stay safe and make 🍺🍺👍👍😷🇬🇧
Appreciated!
Even though this is a later one this was a total steal at two bucks! Nice job on the restoration. You had good bones to work from, which is always nice :-)
I get why you just like your older plane more, even if the results _were_ equivalent. Lots of us reach for old friends on the bench even if there's something else that's materially better in some way within easy reach; I'm like this a lot with my chisels, love to use some of my favourite early restorations over others I know are waaay better.
Anyway, I think I can offer an insight into why you're not getting equivalent results. Block planes are bevel-up planes. Because the bevel faces upwards its angle and the angle the blade's held at are added together, becoming the 'presentation angle' or 'angle of attack'. So with the same bevel of e.g. 25° the 60 1/2 and 9 1/4 won't work the same on the same wood, because a higher-angle plane tends to give less tearout when the grain gets the least bit squirrelly. If that's a word.
Good insight! I'm still learning. I haven't given up on the 60 1/4. Based on what your saying, sounds like I should keep it around for the right project. I've heard that different planes act differently based on the wood and bevel. I appreciate the insight.
@@christophwjones Hi, yes it should work better in specific situations (and the reverse, low-angle block planes are often recommended for end-grain work).
If you have the opportunity to pick up a spare blade/iron sometime one way of getting a more direct apples-for-apples comparison between the two planes is to put an iron into the low-angle plane that has been honed to a steeper angle. A low-angle block plane and a normal-angle block plane work about the same if their respective irons have been honed at different angles, so that the presentation angle becomes the same.
Some numbers should help here. A normal block plane has the iron generally held at 20°. When its iron is honed at 25° you get a presentation angle of 45° (which is coincidentally makes it the same as on normal bench planes like a Stanley no. 4 and most of its clones). Low-angle block planes typically bed their irons at 12°, so to get it to work like the other type you just hone the iron at 33° or thereabouts (doesn't have to be exact).
I don't know if I can get away with posting links in a CZcams comment so instead I'll just point you to Woodcraft, they have a good PDF on this titled *The Essential Block Plane* written by Craig Bentzley.
Hope it helps!
Thanks for the awesome info! I just came across another block plane in need of work. I might just use it to experience.
Maybe it's because you put the blade in upside down the grooves facing down and when you flatten the sole leave all of the plane together with the blade raised up from the bed, other wise it will leave a dimple in the sole. When everything is clamped together it will ( flex) the plane a little bit. Still a nice job
I can see how you might think that, this particular block plane was setup as bevel up. That's how it was previously set up and how the iron was ground. I've seen folks do the flattening with everything installed before, just never tried it.
I did a lot of experiments and research during and since the video. Recently, I watched a great video with Paul Sellers who said Block Planes aren't really an essential. That's had me thinking.
Anyway, thanks for the comment and conversation.
Also, I could be misreading this comment and getting confused! Hahaha. I don't sleep much.
@@christophwjones my apology Cristoph I just rewatched the video again it appears that you're blade has through holes ,mine doesn't. As for the bevel your correct the bevel goes up. I did like the video I didn't mean to upset or discourage you 👍
@@bobthebuilder6315 No apology needed! It actually caused me to double check myself. The comments have been a great source of knowledge for me so I enjoy them.
Noice video, Chris!!
Thanks Mad.
Find the old Stanley's with a brass cap, and Stanley logo inside of a box with "Made in USA" below the logo printed on the blade. Those are the last good Stanley's, which were made until ten or so years after WWII, then they started lowering the quality in the 50s-60s. Your 9 1/4 appears to fall in the good era of Stanleys, and probably has much better tool steel and overall fit and finish than the later era 60 1/2 you found. Of course, anything made before WWII is great as well, but they're also more collectable.
Great info! It's interesting all the little things you need to know on these old planes. Such a good community of folks willing to share info. Appreciate you Borp.
@@christophwjones No problem, happy to share!
Christopher do you have any info on the Stanley 8 w plane, thanks, Jay
Hey Jay. Is it possible you have an 8 SW? If so you may have the Stanley SweetHeart plane. There is usually a heart logo on the cap iron or the tote (back handle). If you have a SweetHeart plane you have a great one!
8:50 thats what she said.
I wish
Give me that shirt.
I'll DM you in IG a place to look for them.