9.9 - 15 hp Evinrude / Johnson water pump replacement
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- čas přidán 21. 04. 2021
- This video features of 1984 Evinrude 15 hp Motor. This is a how to video for the check and removal of your water pump. If you like what you see please give me a like and subscribe and I’ll try to keep making new videos weekly. Thanks for your time!
Water pump replacement kit: 0394711 Evinrude - Auta a dopravní prostředky
For a swede with very little experience with service of outboarders this was a great tutorial. Nice, clear and calm with good explanations and small but convienent tips. Five stars!
Thanks for the positive feedback! I’m glad this could help!
Why didn't you show what was the hardest part of the hardest part to me that is how do you get that little pin back in once you take it off
Great walk through, I just picked up a 75' 15hp Evinrude and am changing the impeller this weekend. I would have pulled my hair out if I didn't watch this first, that shift linkage bolt is a sneaky one.
I’m glad this could help.
Thanks for getting to the point with no silly music or useless fluff like so many others do. This video helped me a lot with my 1982 9.9hp Evinrude. 👍
Thanks so much for taking the time to do this to help others! You make you tube what it is
Great video! I love how you carefully explained how the components work and fit together rather than just zipping through how to take them apart and put them together. It makes a difference in how fully I understand the whole assembly if things get complicated.
Thanks for watching!
Put the impeller on first. Slide the assembly down, and rotate the shaft clockwise. Seems to work better. Bit this is a much better video than others I've seen
This is going to be my first time changing my impellor. I'm a single woman trying to save a buck and learn how to service my own motor. Thanks for the video. I'm pretty sure I can do this!!!.
Thanks.🤙🎣🙋
Thanks for this video! It was very helpful. Just replaced the water pump on my 1982 Evinrude 9.9 with ease thanks to your your video
Super helpful video,Thank you for putting it up
Just as a kindly bit of advice,, when you go through the effort of dropping the lower unit for a water pump inspection,, it always better to just replace the pump impeller, especially if it's around two seasons or so old. Because two years of usage will tend to make the 6 impeller veins/arms stay in the bent in position, which is called ~cold shunting~!
If the 6 veins/arms stay bent over, they've lost around close to 20% of their pumping ability! Therefore, it's wise to simply replace the impeller, and make the work effort worthwhile, and help the customer feel sure of the cooling system for a few more years!!!! Cheers!!!! Very nice video presentation~!~
Couldn’t agree with you more.
Some great new tips that's going to help me when I'll do mine for the first time ,thankyou keep them coming
Best explanation I have see so far THANKS
Very detailed video. Thanks alot.
Very well done!!!
great video- thanks for posting
Great Video! Extremely helpful!
Thanks for the positive feedback, I’m glad this could help!
A good step by step video..
Heck of a video dude muchas gracias 🙏 this really helped me out
I’m glad this helped you out! Thanks for the positive feedback!
Cool video good tip on pull start couldn’t get my bottom back on after I just taken it off to do impeller and already had it on once but guys make sure the throttle doesn’t move could cause it not to let u put in F N R if it turns just sain had it done now still can’t get it!! But cuz this video I got it thank you!!
Wet shoes here as well. Love the name! Good video!
Thanks!
The best money can buy 👌
Very nice Thank you !!
dude you rock thank you
Video is very helpful
thanks ! good vid !
Make sure you let people know they must remove the bolt on the shift shaft for the lower unit to drop out. It took me a while even after hearing one mechanic say that….. it just looked like it should come apart without totally removing that bolt.
Great content. New sub. Keep up the great work
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Muy bien esplicado
Water pipe grommet under powerhead often swell clog off water flow in salt water useage.
I had to pull dozens of power heads clean replace grommet and water tube hole corrosion.
Often engine runs hot overheated from insufficient water flow.
Otherwise excellent motors .
EXCELLENT
Thanks for watching!
Me and my uncle tried tackling this job on my dad's 1982 15hp , and when we tried to remate the bottom end to the top end, we couldn't get it back together while keeping the shifter in the same neutral position. I'm not sure what we were doing wrong, but my small engine guy got it no problem and just said it can be finicky ..
After skimming through your video , I'm wondering if the splines just weren't lining up and we needed to just touch the starter.
I'll definitely re-watch this whole thing in full , and see what I can get out of it. I love the content you are making, better than a lot of videos on outboards that I'm finding.
Thank you for the positive feedback!
Did a fine job
I have a 1976 Evinrude we have used for years (since new)........never have changed the water pump :/ maybe we should?
The impeller is pretty cheap, and just to be on the safe side. I would change it out at least every couple years. Even if it’s not weather checked, or falling apart, the fins lose their elasticity over the years and you will lose water pressure over time. If you wait too long, the impeller blades can start deteriorating and falling apart and once that happens, they get into the waterways inside the block, and they become problematic to get out later.
Great ! You didn't apply gasket sealer
Very nice video, thanks. I have a question for you sir. Would this be the same or similar process when doing the impeller on a 1966 SeaKing 9hp?
Most outboards are Fundamentally the same design with the water pump. The biggest difference would be the shift linkage. The shift linkage changes between manufacturers, and horsepowers. I’ve never worked on that particular outboard, but if you take your time with the shift linkage and see how it’s connected between the lever to the lower unit there should be a bit of linkage that can be disconnected somewhere mid motor.
This is completely off topic but do you happen to know where I can get that protectective cover that sits at the joint of the tiller arm? I just bought the same motor and mine was torn. But I also want to do the water pump so thank you for the video
Sorry bud, I looked a little earlier today, couldn’t find one.
I bought a shop manual for mine, and it contains dire warnings about not removing the drive shaft, else you will need to disassemble the lower unit in order to realign the pinion gear. And of course, I accidentally pulled it out a few inches while trying to clean off the shaft. Now sitting here wondering if I need to tear it all apart, then I find this video where you remove the shaft and reinstall like it is no big deal. Wondering what I am missing.
It’s possible the pinion gear shifted inside the gearbox just enough to make the shaft Alignment tough. With a flashlight try to look down the hole and with a pick, or even a stiff metal rod you can try to realign it enough for the shaft to fall into the gear. I’ve never had trouble with the 15 hp, but I have struggled with a 2 hp that has this problem. Worst case scenario you might have to pull the gearbox end off to get in there to realign the gear. It’s not too bad if you have to get into that.
@@wetshoesmechanic Thank you for the reply. I had tried to put the shaft back in, and it would shift into reverse but not forward. On the advice of another friend, I turned the shaft slowly while trying to shift it into forward, and it eventually went. I put it back together and it seems to be working fine now. The manual I bought is horrible; tries to cover decades worth of motors and jumps around a lot. I would have been better off going straight to CZcams.
It's an old motor that used to belong to my dad... After he passed over 20 years ago, I had the local outboard shop winterize it, then I packed it in a crate. I hadn't planned on leaving it there quite this long, but with new plugs, new water pump, and fresh gear lube it appears to be good to go again.
Man. nice but you didn't show the most important part, putting in the shift linkage bolt !
I tried to explain it the best I could from 13:17 - 14:48 in the video. It’s really hard to get a camera in there focused well enough to see what’s going on. Thank you for your feedback though, I might try to do a video just on that at some point.
I'm doing my first water pump replacement on a Johnson 15 HP - I've looked at other videos but yours helped me the most - the detail was great - answered a bunch of questions I had. Thank you for doing this. ⚓️ Additionally I noticed you didn't use any gasket or gasket compound anywhere - did I miss something?And can I use Vaseline to hold the pin in place? I don't have any grease :) - Thanks again.
Thanks for the positive feedback! There’s no gasket material between the housing in the lower unit, just the O-ring, seal, and grommet on the top of the water pump housing.
I agree. Great videos.
Good morning.! Thanks for your movies ..! Very useful. I have some advice to ask you ... My 9.9 johnson It has one cylinder that heats up more than the other. The coldest cylinder is the one on the carburetor side. Could the left cylinder water circuit be clogged? Thanks if you can answer me.
It’s possible that one of the waterways are clogged causing a hotspot in a cylinders. Other things to consider would be internal damage to the cylinder in question. Friction equals heat so with that being said you might look at your cylinder walls in that cylinder, and look at the rings. Make sure you don’t have a whole bunch of carbon buildup on the rings causing a bunch of extra drag on that one cylinder. Another overheating issue would be running to lean. Basically the cylinder walls aren’t getting adequate lubrication from the oil fuel mix which again is causing too much friction equaling heat. So with all that being said just to break it down, either you’re lacking adequate cooling, or you’re lacking adequate lubrication to the moving parts, or something internally and mechanically is jammed up of some sort causing friction. Hope this helps a little, thanks for watching!
@@wetshoesmechanic Thanks for the info you gave me. They are certainly useful to me! I also thank you for the work you do by posting these videos ..
Great Video. I am going to try this for my 2004 - 15 hp Johnson, which looks virtually the same. I would like to know if you have a suggestion, or if anyone does for that matter.....on how to break the bolts loose. I was only able to get three (3) of six (6) off, and my swearing and sweating in the garage is scaring my children. Tried a penetrating oil with negative results.
Keep posting video's. Highly informational and confidence building.
Thank you for the positive feedback! I plan on trying to do more videos later on towards fall time. As far as the stuck bolts, I would continue to try with the penetrating oil and don’t be afraid to work the bolt back-and-forth a little. Sometimes people get hung up on loosening a bolt and will only turn it left. You can try nudging it in a tightening fashion to try to break up whatever it’s sticking the threads. I would use this as a last resort but if you have a little propane torch and you can keep it away from the paint and try to just apply the heat to the head of the bolt you might be able to get somewhere with that, but like I said I would use this as a last resort. Good luck to you!
If motor was ran in salt water, sometimes it's impossible to get them out with breaking the bolts, just try working the bolts back and forth,and maybe some penetrating oil may help
👍👍👍
Just tape the shifter screw to a screwdriver, then rip it off when the screw is in.. Good vid though 👌
I like that idea! I’ll use it! Thanks for your input!
Holy crap this is the video I needed, thank you! Couldn't find anything like this last year so I decided to put it off a year, and boy am I glad I did!!
Quick question though, im going to be doing this procedure this coming week, and I am wondering if you drain the lube at all before doing this, or if you leave it in the motor during the process.
Also, is the tube that carries the water from pump to block something that needs replacement??
Thanks a bunch!!!!
Thanks for the positive feedback! You don’t have to drain the oil in the gearbox to do this as long as you’re not turning the unit Upside down or laying it on it’s side. I had it drained mostly because it’s easier to film without spilling oil all over the place while I’m filming. You shouldn’t have to replace the tube that you’re talking about unless it’s been damaged somehow. There is a rubber grommet on the top of the water pump that the tube nests into. If that is not part of your water pump kit and is cracked or no longer soft and malleable you may consider replacing that too. Happy boating!
@@wetshoesmechanic did the replacement today, went smooth, ours is an 87 long shaft so a few minor differences, but our pump kit came with an o-ring that I'm not sure as to what it replaces. Pump kit lists it as 303097, looks like it could replace the o-ring that sits at the top of our drive shaft, but that o-ring was in good condition, but I can't seem to find a solid answer as to its purpose. Is it supposed to sit on the impeller housing seal at the top of the pump? Our old one didn't have one but it was the original pump and most of the housing, gaskets, and grommets had all melted/rotted/melded so jts hard to tell whats what from that.
@@fastillion918 I’m sending you a hyperlink to marineengine.com, I believe part 59 in the exploded view on this webpage is what you’re talking about? From what I can see 0303097 Is a water tube for some model, I’m not sure which. I’m not sure which kit you have either, sometimes you end up with kits that have multiple parts for multiple Model numbers. I’m kind of guessing at your model number and the part that you’re describing but I believe it’s part number 59 in this list. Hope this helps a little good luck!
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1987&hp=15&model=E15RLCUD&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Gearcase
Do you drain lower unit oil?
You don’t have to. If you set it down and it starts leaking oil that means that the seals and or the O-rings were compromised for the lower unit already anyway. Just to be on the safe side I always drain my lower unit oil at the end of the season and replenish it with new oil. If a seal is compromised and water gets in there, it could potentially freeze and break the lower unit during winter time storage.
So i opened up my lower unit on my 1974 evinrude 15hp and there want like oily milky stuff everywhere. what is it. i cleaned it once put it back on and took it back off and it was there again. so what is this stuff.
If the oil in the lower unit is milky, you have a bad seal somewhere and water is trying to mix with the oil. There is a seal on the input shaft going into the lower unit, there’s also a O-ring seal around the shifting shaft, coming out of the lower unit, and then you have the output shaft seal going to the propeller. If you have it all apart to the point of replacing the water pump parts, I would suggest replacing all of the before mentioned seals. You might look at the prop shaft seal. Sometimes you can pick up fishing line and it will cut that seal up as it twists around the shaft. You can also drain the lower unit while it’s off of the rest of the motor, put one of the plugs for the oil back in, and hook up some compressed air to the one that’s left open, spray a little Windex around all the seals and see if you can get one to start bubbling. Don’t use any more than a few Psi when doing this.
I drained the gear oil and it wasn’t milky at all. i think it might be a seal under the impeller housing. could that be the one i need to replace?
If the oil in the gearbox looks good, I think you’re OK. If you have milky oily, residue outside of the gearbox up around the water pump, it’s probably just water left over mixed with exhaust oil. The exhaust on two strokes will have some unburnt oil mix with it. If you’re not sure, put your finger in it and smell it. If it smells like gas a little, it’s exhaust oil. If it smells skunky it will be gear oil.
My biggest fear is that the copper pipe was bent to much. I watched this and learned to do the top bolts on my Johnson 15 1983
Are these parts still available for purchase? I'm looking to do this repair on my 9.9 evinrude
I would start with your local marina just to keep business local, try for OMC parts first but if they’re not available Sierra works too. If you have to go online I would go to this website and put in all your information. They have quite a selection still.
www.marineengine.com
I have the same motor it won’t go into reverse gear any idea what it is ?
Check the brass coupler where the lower unit comes apart from the Exhaust leg, and make sure the screw fits into the groove on the shift shaft that goes into the brass coupler. You might have only gotten the shaft part of the way into the brass coupler.
I’ve done my water pump, but I think upper water tube grommet could be bad. Getting water pumping out at the base of motor housing. How would I change that.
The best way I know how to do that would be to pull the powerhead “The actual engine part of the motor” to get access to that tube that high up in the motor. In that area there are a few gaskets, and Gromit that could be the culprit and without taking the powerhead off you can be sure which component has failed.
@@wetshoesmechanic you are right. I just finished up and the top grommet was bad! Mashed closed. She is peeing like crazy now! Tks for your posts, keep them coming!!!
Nice job!
@@wetshoesmechanic got another question for ya. At the top, just under the base of the engine housing. Their are 2 exhaust holes. Is water supposed to come out of them after the thermostat opens?
Doing this job now, and having trouble getting the shaft top engine spline lined up .... need four arms. The difference is I have a long shaft which requires a third section. Lining things up on three planes is tricky. Any advice tricks?
Thanks
Patients… that third section in a long shaft just takes a little patience. I know it sounds silly but if you were to put a few bolts through the lower unit into the midsection and wrap some tape around the outside leg to try to hold everything in place for that third section that might help. As far as lining the splines up it’s tricky, you can try turning the fly wheel by hand a little bit, Or pulling the rope for the starter to help get the splines lined up. Just be careful not to turn the starter or the fly will too quickly so as you don’t accidentally start it while you’re trying to do all of this. Also make sure that your water pump pick up tube makes its way into the grommet on the top of the water pump while you’re doing all of this. Good luck to you!
Thanks for your reply... I truly appreciate it! Had to set it aside, but will try again tomorrow with your excellent advice!
With a fresh mind and added patience, I got it together this AM. Thank you! After the parts come in, tomorrow's task is to work on ignition. Coil or condenser... we shall see. Today's task is to come up with strap wrench and fly wheel puller, as my guess it will be condenser. Anyway, thank you for posting these videos. You give many your experience and motivation to try. With any luck, I will be on the lake fishing next week. Thank you!
At the end of this video, you state to make certain the shift linkage works properly. When shifting into reverse, everything seems OK, but it seems to bind when shifting to forward gear. Is there any linkage adjustment that can be done? Also, just curious what state you live in?
Thanks in advance,
Brian
To shift these properly it really should either be running, or you’ll need to turn the flywheel a bit To get the gears and the dog clutch to mesh correctly. I would either put some muffs on it or put it in a barrel and check how the shifts while it’s running. I’m out of Montana.
Is there no oil in the lower unit?
There is, the seals keep it from leaking and keep the water from getting in.
4:18 what about if I don’t have any rubber left?
If there is no rubber left from the impeller blades, you may have to go through your whole cooling system throughout the motor to make sure that there isn’t anything clogged up with the rubber bits. Some of the channels throughout the head and block area can get plugged up with these. They could get jammed up around the thermostat and prevent it from operating properly. Unfortunately, when an impeller gets that bad it’s a bit of a headache to try to verify everything is cleaned out. tear it all down, try to blow everything out really well, and hope you got it all out. Especially for the first few times out again really pay attention to make sure nothing is overheating.
I Done my impeller! And now my engine struggles to go into forward it won’t properly clunk into gear forward only, any help?
It’s probably the coupler on the shift linkage where the lower unit comes apart. Part of that shaft has an indentation in it that needs to align with the hole in the coupler so the bolt captures it properly. More than likely it missed that indentation and it’s clamped in the coupler which makes the linkage just a little too long. Unbolt your lower unit and your shift linkage and try to align it again. If you’ve never done this it might take a few tries until you get it worked out.
@@wetshoesmechanic I know exactly what you mean I will try that thanks!
Still have part for this engine?
Certain parts are getting hard to find, but your local Marine shop should have access to most of them or here’s a website:
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1984&hp=15&model=E15RCRM
@@wetshoesmechanic thx for the info
Very helpful, thank you. Question for ya- i have a 1992 9.9 evinrude E10RENA. Was running great but after storing over winter, the throttle will not turn in neutral, it won't turn like it used too and is jammed. Once its in forward, the throttle can engage. Any suggestions are much appreciated!