Great bike and review. RLT - Road Less Traveled. A cool feature is that you can mount extra bottle cages on the front fork. Your videos have been very informative, thanks.
Good review. One thing I would note is about the bottom bracket drop which has a great effect on the stability of a bike as well. This bike has a 70mm drop, closer to a road bike drop than a CX bike drop of ~60mm. More BB drop makes a slower steering bike, but a more stable descender for long sweeping turns. The tall BB drop will allow the bike to flop different directions quickly, which is good for fast short turns. More BB drop also means slightly longer chain stays, which is added flex or comfort on a steel bike. That fork is over stiff because it's meant to handle the touring equipment and the unnecessary 1.5 bottom headtube race. The tapered head tube and the increased stiffness takes away from the feel of steel in my opinion. I think a better option, though not an equivalent (due to lack of rack mounts and higher bb) would be the Ritchey SwissCross disc.
Higher BB does allow it to flop around tight corners faster which is beneficial for CX. However, this bike is not optimized for CX in many ways...and yeah, the SwissCross definitely follows a more traditional CX geometry. I agree that the fork had to be stiffer to support racks, but the 1.5" tapered HT is more beneficial for braking forces than anything. With good solid brakes like Ultegra Hydros, it will be easy to lock up the brakes and make a 1-1/8" fork to stutter or pogo if you brake hard. The tapered HT provides the extra stiffness to combat that. Lower BB offers better stability, and faster on wider sweeping turns where you can lower your center of gravity and retain speed. This bike was conceived to be more versatile as Clint described.....light touring, gravel, CX, road, commuter. I do want to point out that there is no top mount seat stay bosses for a rack so you will have to use a seat collar/seat post mount or the seatstay clamps in order to mount a rack. I find that to be a bit short-sighted, however..this is in no way a touring frame so I believe they wanted keep riders from installing heavy duty pannier racks that may weigh way above the what the frame is capable of supporting. Evidence of that is the difference in stiffness of the front from the rear. Good review!
nice review Clint. any chance you could do an update video on your Trance Advanced? i'm thinking about getting one in May and would like to know if there is anymore information on it now you've had it a while.
I'm not a total "weight weenie" but I was curious as to the difference between the steel and aluminum frames... thanks Clint... information is power and thanks for bulking me up !!
How heavy it is in this configuration? I just checked, and in Europe you get the frame+fork for around 1899 Euros (~2100 $) which is not quite cheap, unfortunately. Thanks!
Good review. This might be my next bike. Kind of debating between the steel RLT and a Jamis Renegade. I love steel frames so the Niner might have an edge. Also good to know that the steel RLT frame is compatible with Di2.
Greg H. What did you end up getting? I was in the edge of getting the renegade and a super deal came up on this rlt steel in my size (47) so I got it. I did a ton of research on steel for frames and honestly the 835 is great but the 631 and 520 are both great steel for frames. The renegade expat is a great deal and tiagra gets great reviews nowadays.
Very interesting bike. Kind of a mix of classic and modern. I'm looking at getting a Giant Defy with hydraulic disc brakes for my first road bike. Not sure it would be ideal for dirt roads but pretty sure it would take a 28 or maybe even a 32c. Good review as usual.
+Dan Morgan I have not ridden one so my knowledge is only what I can see on paper. Looks like the geometry is between the TCR road bikes and the TCX cyclocross bikes. What I don't know that is exactly how much tire clearance you have on the bike. if you can go up to 32c tire that would be great. It looks like the Defy is really for road and rough roads and maybe some light gravel roads. If riding dirt and gravel is your main priority the TCX bikes are what I would look at.
Hi Clint...Thank you for all the info! I have some questions and want to share a little background and any help you can provide is greatly appreciated! 1. I already have a road bike (Cannondale Super Six EVO/Hi Mod) & mnt bike (Niner Air RDO) so I am looking for a fun, comfortable bike that I can use on road and dirt/gravel roads.....based on three of your videos it seems like Niner RLT Steel 4 star build may be it. 2. First question....in your video you said the 4 star build came with Stan's Wheels...it looks like that is not the case any longer and they now offer Niner CX carbon on 4 star build and Stan's on 3 star build....What do you think about the Niner CX carbon (although Niner does not advertise it I believe these wheels can be set up tubeless) vs Stan's? 3. What do you think of the Moots Route RTL, Route or Route 45 bike? 4. Titanium vs steel....Thoughts? 5. Lastly, if it matters I am 45 years old and 175-180 lbs. THANK YOU!
+Off2IndiaNow you are right. They changed the wheel set for the 4-star build from when I ordered mine. The carbon wheels are very good. My only question is if they are tubeless ready. I would make a phone call to Niner or your local bike shop to see if that's the case. Even if they're not you could use some tape or a rubber Rim strip to convert them to tubeless. But the reason I love Stan's Wheels is how easy they are as tubeless. Sounds like the rlt 9 steel would be a great bike for you. Another consideration would be a cyclocross bike like a giant tcx or Niner BSB 9. If you prefer a bike that's a little more snappy then that's the way I would go. Also the way I would go if you think you may do any cyclocross racing. But if you want a bike that's a little bit more stable for rough descents then the gravel bike would be it. Hope this helps.
Great review! Is this a bike you would do the tour divide on or the Race Across Texas 1000? My LBS carry the RLT and am look in for something that I can use to train and bikecamping.
+Clint Gibbs Not necessarily doing the race, but riding the Great Divide Trail at my pace. I have a RIP 9 RDO trail bike only and looking for a bike for back road\gravel riding with option of doing the tour divide route in a year or so. A bike I can run on pavement, swap tires\wheels and take on a multi day event.
Cruising your vids. You're very thorough and articulate your thoughts well. Is that a void in the frame weld at 8:04? It kind of stuck out like a sore thumb. I replayed it, for a better look, but it sure appears to be a void. Definitely not good to have anywhere on the frame, but that particular spot is problematic for allowing water and grit into the bearings.
I know I am not able to inspect the bike in person, but what I am seeing isn't tape. I am looking where the down tube and seat tube are welded to the bottom bracket. Between them on the top of the bottom bracket is a hole. It is first visible at 7:28 and visible until the camera pans away one minute later at 8:28. I am looking for a frame to build, but I won't spend $1,500 on one of these with this kind of defect and quality control. Great video though.
@@stumpbumpers I see what you're referring to and it looks like a spec of mud. I couldn't image the frame was designed with a hole in the bottom bracket in that location.
Niece looking steel bike! I wonder if this frame is a good winter training bike on road winter tires of course (28's) for the Mid Atlantic States, 30s 40s degrees or even some snow/ice? Hate my Cannondale Super X (Cantis) for fast winter training, just handling is too temperamental and can not cope with moderate to strong cross winds nor slow speeds without requiering a lot of feathering the handlebars! Thanks I'll wait for Your response if You have tested under such conditions on the road.
+Alvaro Duarte I think it would make a great winter bike. This black rolls amazingly smooth on the road and it is very stable. And yes, the gearing is fine for the road.
Next year, I'm looking for a gravel bike and I'm really towards the RLT9 4 Star Steel. I'm going to test ride it soon. I have a question for you. What are the weight differences between a Titanium to the RLT9 to a Surly Disc Trucker? Or are they all comparable in weight?
Clint hello. I've noticed that the ride is quiet harsh. This is probably due to a tire pressure. How do you choose the tires pressure when you have to ride equal amount of tarmac and off road. For off road one suppose to go with a lower pressure but for tarmac with a higher one. How to choose the "universal" pressure. What do you do in such a case? In particular, I'm using a Clements Strada Lgg 120TPI 32C. My weight is 194lb/88kg. As a starting point Clements tech support suggested using between 75-85 psi for tarmac and about 55psi for off road. Should I go with something like 65psi? Thank you very much.
+elzLeon I'm145 pounds and I run about 30 PSI in the front on my gravel bike and about 34 in the back. With your tire size and weight I would probably go about 38 in the front and 47 in the back. Start their there. I increase my tire pressure if I'm riding in the mountains on Rocky terrain. Basically I run is low pressure as possible without the rim bottoming out on something.
Thanks for the video. I am interested, but the sizing is giving me headaches. At not-quite 5'8", I'm an inch shorter than you, and the only bike I can demo is the 56cm RLT that belongs to the owner of my bike shop. He is my height (but opposite geometry: I'm legs; he's torso). He said he tried the 53cm and the reach was much too short, and crampy. I took his 56cm out for a ride - and standing next to it, it felt huge! For standover clearance, it was just barely! Everything about it seemed far too big! - Until I rode it, and - it fit fine. In fact, the reach was still a little crampy. I was thinking "maybe this 56cm with a longer stem?" But this is crazy - because Niner recommends a 53cm for my height, and you're taller than me and like your 53cm. Additionally, I didn't think the bike handling was great. I had trouble with some tight navigations. And part of me thought - maybe that's because this bike is too big for me? Does anyone else think this sizing is hard?
I'm just under 5'9" and the 53 is perfect. remember a gravel bike is going to have a shorter reach than a road bike. That's by design. You want to sit up higher so you aren't as fatigued over long gravel rides and you have more control.
Helpful, and believable. Probably most of my use case will be non-gravel rides: useful for rough roads, lousy pavement, and routes that have some gravel. Interested in the Niner for its multi-surface capabilities and packability for light touring, more than gravel. For this purpose, is it still necessary to be so upright? Or is this not the right bike for these purposes, because of geometry?
@@mledavis8252 to me it sounds like this is the perfect bike for your needs. The longer your ride the more upright you want to be. Being bent over can put some stress on your back on really long rides, especially if the pavement is bumpy. You tend to tense up 'more on bumpy roads which puts stress on your back.
Hey Clint, Would you recommend this bike for commuting? I got rid of my road bike a while back and I have been commuting on my Intense Carbine SL but it's a little too slow, I was thinking about getting this one or the SIR9 (with fast tires); my commute is 8.5miles (one way) Thanks, R.
Clint Gibbs thanks! i plan to run it tubeless for commuting and fast weekend ride on my steelie. Hopefully it's as durable as road tyres like gp4000. Thank you for the great inspiration! Keep rolling !
Look at Ritchey Logic, Cinelli and Masi. I had a Masi way back in the day, when they were really high in bikes, and I really liked it. One of the coolest bikes I've owned and I wish I would have kept it.
+repacker I wrote a Jamis Dragon years ago and I have owned a Niner SIR9. If you are not overly concerned about weight then steel mountain bike frames are a great option, especially for hardtails. They have an excellent ride quality.
farzid mostafa get the 47. The 50 would work but you're on the edge of the two frame sizes. 47 would be a hair small but I like that rather than a hair big.
Really nice bike. A little bit expensive though. Do you know of any bike that is comparable to this in $1000 range? Steel tubing, wide tire clearance?relax geo
Got my Niner Rlt Steel!
Great bike, very happy. Thank you very much for your very thorough reviews and help choosing the right Niner.
Great review as always. One of the best cycling channels out there for sure
Great bike and review. RLT - Road Less Traveled. A cool feature is that you can mount extra bottle cages on the front fork. Your videos have been very informative, thanks.
Love the long form detailed reviews.
I like the way you review. Very Detailed and clear
Appreciate the thorough review - great job!
ive been jealous of this bike since you uploaded the alloy version :)
I ordered my RLT 9 steel frame. Lets see how it goes. Really liked your video. It help me tremendously in making my decision.
jgronde hows the bike?
Really nice bike, thanks for the review.
Great review, as always!
Great review. Nice feedback on a steel frame
Great review! I think I've found my next bike.
Good review. One thing I would note is about the bottom bracket drop which has a great effect on the stability of a bike as well. This bike has a 70mm drop, closer to a road bike drop than a CX bike drop of ~60mm. More BB drop makes a slower steering bike, but a more stable descender for long sweeping turns. The tall BB drop will allow the bike to flop different directions quickly, which is good for fast short turns. More BB drop also means slightly longer chain stays, which is added flex or comfort on a steel bike. That fork is over stiff because it's meant to handle the touring equipment and the unnecessary 1.5 bottom headtube race. The tapered head tube and the increased stiffness takes away from the feel of steel in my opinion. I think a better option, though not an equivalent (due to lack of rack mounts and higher bb) would be the Ritchey SwissCross disc.
+Jay Tee good post. Thanks.
Higher BB does allow it to flop around tight corners faster which is beneficial for CX. However, this bike is not optimized for CX in many ways...and yeah, the SwissCross definitely follows a more traditional CX geometry.
I agree that the fork had to be stiffer to support racks, but the 1.5" tapered HT is more beneficial for braking forces than anything. With good solid brakes like Ultegra Hydros, it will be easy to lock up the brakes and make a 1-1/8" fork to stutter or pogo if you brake hard. The tapered HT provides the extra stiffness to combat that.
Lower BB offers better stability, and faster on wider sweeping turns where you can lower your center of gravity and retain speed. This bike was conceived to be more versatile as Clint described.....light touring, gravel, CX, road, commuter.
I do want to point out that there is no top mount seat stay bosses for a rack so you will have to use a seat collar/seat post mount or the seatstay clamps in order to mount a rack. I find that to be a bit short-sighted, however..this is in no way a touring frame so I believe they wanted keep riders from installing heavy duty pannier racks that may weigh way above the what the frame is capable of supporting. Evidence of that is the difference in stiffness of the front from the rear.
Good review!
Great Review! Thanks!
I have the 46/36 crank with 11/32 cassette, I changed my inner crank chainring from a 36 to 34, that's a big help on hills..
To cover the holes in the front fork use silicone, cheap and it holds water. Same with other holes on the bike you want to cover up.
plastic plugs available in the nut & bolts/hardware dept. at any ACE Hardware store. Various diameters in black.
Vaast is Niner sister company and their magnesium frame feels like the best qualities of steel and carbon frame
nice review Clint. any chance you could do an update video on your Trance Advanced? i'm thinking about getting one in May and would like to know if there is anymore information on it now you've had it a while.
good reviews
I'm not a total "weight weenie" but I was curious as to the difference between the steel and aluminum frames... thanks Clint... information is power and thanks for bulking me up !!
+Letzrockitrite about 1.5 lbs
Thank you Clint.. for the reply .. I'll be looking forward to seeing more of your videos...
How heavy it is in this configuration? I just checked, and in Europe you get the frame+fork for around 1899 Euros (~2100 $) which is not quite cheap, unfortunately. Thanks!
Good review. This might be my next bike. Kind of debating between the steel RLT and a Jamis Renegade. I love steel frames so the Niner might have an edge. Also good to know that the steel RLT frame is compatible with Di2.
Greg H. What did you end up getting? I was in the edge of getting the renegade and a super deal came up on this rlt steel in my size (47) so I got it. I did a ton of research on steel for frames and honestly the 835 is great but the 631 and 520 are both great steel for frames. The renegade expat is a great deal and tiagra gets great reviews nowadays.
Very interesting bike. Kind of a mix of classic and modern. I'm looking at getting a Giant Defy with hydraulic disc brakes for my first road bike. Not sure it would be ideal for dirt roads but pretty sure it would take a 28 or maybe even a 32c. Good review as usual.
+Dan Morgan 32c tires work on gravel just fine
Cool. Any thoughts on the defy? I know you're a fan of giant.
+Dan Morgan I have not ridden one so my knowledge is only what I can see on paper. Looks like the geometry is between the TCR road bikes and the TCX cyclocross bikes. What I don't know that is exactly how much tire clearance you have on the bike. if you can go up to 32c tire that would be great. It looks like the Defy is really for road and rough roads and maybe some light gravel roads. If riding dirt and gravel is your main priority the TCX bikes are what I would look at.
Riding gravel is not the main priority but something I may want to try as well. Thanks for your input Clint.
Thanks for review, there's a used RLT Steel for 1700, what's price new
mudguards for touring can be useful, any recommendation ?
Well sir I think you convinced me to buy a RLT9 steel
Great review! Do you know if the frame has some sort of internal coating to prevent rust?
+Jesse Cole that I'm not sure of.
on the back is also more force,thats why rear swim s more like front,70 percent vs 30 i think
Thank you so much! however i'll buy surly Midnight Special.
Hi Clint...Thank you for all the info! I have some questions and want to share a little background and any help you can provide is greatly appreciated!
1. I already have a road bike (Cannondale Super Six EVO/Hi Mod) & mnt bike (Niner Air RDO) so I am looking for a fun, comfortable bike that I can use on road and dirt/gravel roads.....based on three of your videos it seems like Niner RLT Steel 4 star build may be it.
2. First question....in your video you said the 4 star build came with Stan's Wheels...it looks like that is not the case any longer and they now offer Niner CX carbon on 4 star build and Stan's on 3 star build....What do you think about the Niner CX carbon (although Niner does not advertise it I believe these wheels can be set up tubeless) vs Stan's?
3. What do you think of the Moots Route RTL, Route or Route 45 bike?
4. Titanium vs steel....Thoughts?
5. Lastly, if it matters I am 45 years old and 175-180 lbs.
THANK YOU!
+Off2IndiaNow you are right. They changed the wheel set for the 4-star build from when I ordered mine. The carbon wheels are very good. My only question is if they are tubeless ready. I would make a phone call to Niner or your local bike shop to see if that's the case. Even if they're not you could use some tape or a rubber Rim strip to convert them to tubeless. But the reason I love Stan's Wheels is how easy they are as tubeless. Sounds like the rlt 9 steel would be a great bike for you. Another consideration would be a cyclocross bike like a giant tcx or Niner BSB 9. If you prefer a bike that's a little more snappy then that's the way I would go. Also the way I would go if you think you may do any cyclocross racing. But if you want a bike that's a little bit more stable for rough descents then the gravel bike would be it. Hope this helps.
thank you!
Should I get the RLT steel or carbon?? I don't mind paying the extra
Great review! Is this a bike you would do the tour divide on or the Race Across Texas 1000? My LBS carry the RLT and am look in for something that I can use to train and bikecamping.
+Collin Clark are you referring to the tour divide mountain bike race?
+Clint Gibbs Not necessarily doing the race, but riding the Great Divide Trail at my pace. I have a RIP 9 RDO trail bike only and looking for a bike for back road\gravel riding with option of doing the tour divide route in a year or so. A bike I can run on pavement, swap tires\wheels and take on a multi day event.
Cruising your vids. You're very thorough and articulate your thoughts well. Is that a void in the frame weld at 8:04? It kind of stuck out like a sore thumb. I replayed it, for a better look, but it sure appears to be a void. Definitely not good to have anywhere on the frame, but that particular spot is problematic for allowing water and grit into the bearings.
No, I think you're seeing some framesaver tape that I had on it. There were no defects at all in the frame.
I know I am not able to inspect the bike in person, but what I am seeing isn't tape. I am looking where the down tube and seat tube are welded to the bottom bracket. Between them on the top of the bottom bracket is a hole. It is first visible at 7:28 and visible until the camera pans away one minute later at 8:28. I am looking for a frame to build, but I won't spend $1,500 on one of these with this kind of defect and quality control. Great video though.
@@stumpbumpers I see what you're referring to and it looks like a spec of mud. I couldn't image the frame was designed with a hole in the bottom bracket in that location.
Can you do a review about Giant's Talon 1 29er 2016?
Thanks! :)
Niece looking steel bike! I wonder if this frame is a good winter training bike on road winter tires of course (28's) for the Mid Atlantic States, 30s 40s degrees or even some snow/ice? Hate my Cannondale Super X (Cantis) for fast winter training, just handling is too temperamental and can not cope with moderate to strong cross winds nor slow speeds without requiering a lot of feathering the handlebars! Thanks I'll wait for Your response if You have tested under such conditions on the road.
+Alvaro Duarte I think it would make a great winter bike. This black rolls amazingly smooth on the road and it is very stable. And yes, the gearing is fine for the road.
creative build there clint. did you consider going for a steel fork? I guess your main reason for the carbon fork is it is better damping than steel?
+Scott Phillips carbon form is just lighter and stiffer, making for more precise steering.
I am really impressed by your explanations. I'm looking for a GG and I'm not sure you should not get a commission if I get a niner!
Next year, I'm looking for a gravel bike and I'm really towards the RLT9 4 Star Steel. I'm going to test ride it soon. I have a question for you. What are the weight differences between a Titanium to the RLT9 to a Surly Disc Trucker? Or are they all comparable in weight?
+Diana Theriault my best estimation if that a Ti frame will be about 1.5 to 2 pounds lighter than a steel frame
Clint hello.
I've noticed that the ride is quiet harsh. This is probably due to a tire pressure.
How do you choose the tires pressure when you have to ride equal amount of tarmac and off road.
For off road one suppose to go with a lower pressure but for tarmac with a higher one. How to choose the "universal" pressure. What do you do in such a case?
In particular, I'm using a Clements Strada Lgg 120TPI 32C. My weight is 194lb/88kg.
As a starting point Clements tech support suggested using between 75-85 psi for tarmac and about 55psi for off road. Should I go with something like 65psi?
Thank you very much.
+elzLeon I'm145 pounds and I run about 30 PSI in the front on my gravel bike and about 34 in the back. With your tire size and weight I would probably go about 38 in the front and 47 in the back. Start their there. I increase my tire pressure if I'm riding in the mountains on Rocky terrain. Basically I run is low pressure as possible without the rim bottoming out on something.
Thanks for the video. I am interested, but the sizing is giving me headaches. At not-quite 5'8", I'm an inch shorter than you, and the only bike I can demo is the 56cm RLT that belongs to the owner of my bike shop. He is my height (but opposite geometry: I'm legs; he's torso). He said he tried the 53cm and the reach was much too short, and crampy. I took his 56cm out for a ride - and standing next to it, it felt huge! For standover clearance, it was just barely! Everything about it seemed far too big! - Until I rode it, and - it fit fine. In fact, the reach was still a little crampy. I was thinking "maybe this 56cm with a longer stem?" But this is crazy - because Niner recommends a 53cm for my height, and you're taller than me and like your 53cm. Additionally, I didn't think the bike handling was great. I had trouble with some tight navigations. And part of me thought - maybe that's because this bike is too big for me? Does anyone else think this sizing is hard?
I'm just under 5'9" and the 53 is perfect. remember a gravel bike is going to have a shorter reach than a road bike. That's by design. You want to sit up higher so you aren't as fatigued over long gravel rides and you have more control.
Helpful, and believable. Probably most of my use case will be non-gravel rides: useful for rough roads, lousy pavement, and routes that have some gravel. Interested in the Niner for its multi-surface capabilities and packability for light touring, more than gravel. For this purpose, is it still necessary to be so upright? Or is this not the right bike for these purposes, because of geometry?
@@mledavis8252 to me it sounds like this is the perfect bike for your needs. The longer your ride the more upright you want to be. Being bent over can put some stress on your back on really long rides, especially if the pavement is bumpy. You tend to tense up 'more on bumpy roads which puts stress on your back.
can you please review new sora r3000 when it will be available, you have the best reviews, only for products I can't afford
Hey Clint,
Would you recommend this bike for commuting? I got rid of my road bike a while back and I have been commuting on my Intense Carbine SL but it's a little too slow, I was thinking about getting this one or the SIR9 (with fast tires); my commute is 8.5miles (one way)
Thanks,
R.
100%. It's my commuter (my commute is about the same as yours; I have about 1/2 dirt roads).
Nice... Thank you!
No problem. If you end up getting one let me know how you like it.
perhaps the brakes on the di2 pull to close to the bar because they just need a bleed?
+Alfie Beaty I've tried that. Once they engage they're very firm. Everyone I know who has those breaks has the same issue.
how much? frame only and frame with components
Clint, do you remember if this model year can take a 650b/27.5 wheel
I don't remember...sorry!
will this size fit someone 5-10? It has the same Top tube length as my 54cm Cannondale evo.
+nathanwv222 I would think so. You're right on the border.
how do u like your S-one tyres on road? does it roll as well as touring/all season style tyres?
+Chi Eng Chow it's very smooth on the road. Sucks on any kind of Trail but that's not what it's designed for.
Clint Gibbs thanks! i plan to run it tubeless for commuting and fast weekend ride on my steelie. Hopefully it's as durable as road tyres like gp4000.
Thank you for the great inspiration! Keep rolling !
Have you had a chance to try the Giant Revolt?
+Daniel L not yet
What kind of pump are you running on your frame?
Lezyne
there is no boss to attach the top part of rear rack, right?
+Choon Kheng Koma Lau there is
Clint Gibbs thanx... Unable to see any... screencast.com/t/xmqyDOA6
Do you know of any good quality all steel road bikes?
Look at Ritchey Logic, Cinelli and Masi. I had a Masi way back in the day, when they were really high in bikes, and I really liked it. One of the coolest bikes I've owned and I wish I would have kept it.
Did you ever test ride the Jamis Renegade steel for comparison? Really I'm just wishing I could find a review this thorough about the Jamis as well.
+repacker I wrote a Jamis Dragon years ago and I have owned a Niner SIR9. If you are not overly concerned about weight then steel mountain bike frames are a great option, especially for hardtails. They have an excellent ride quality.
How much does this bike weigh Clint? Thanks!
Based on guesstimate probably over 20lbs easy, its steel.
Thanks!
I ride a 63 cm I cant get some bikes because they are to small
Ainda não chegou a minha .
I am 5.4 which frame size should I go for?
+farzid mostafa 50cm
farzid mostafa get the 47. The 50 would work but you're on the edge of the two frame sizes. 47 would be a hair small but I like that rather than a hair big.
Really nice bike. A little bit expensive though. Do you know of any bike that is comparable to this in $1000 range? Steel tubing, wide tire clearance?relax geo
+Johnny TheFlyingA14 Surly cross-check comes to my mind
Clint Gibbs thanks clint. I also found kona sutra, kona rove jamis reneged and cm strada sport from bikesdirect
👍
Clint Gibbs thank you clint, when are you going to raffle this bike for your followers 🤔😏
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Use black silicon to seal the plug hole, works nice and easy to take out.
What do you mean slacker ?
What do you mean by slacker ? Is it the angle of the top tube ?
+Robin Santos the head angle is slacker which means the steering will be a little bit slower but more steady
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scheiße :)