Resin Printing Tips - Drainage Holes Explained
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
- As part of an ongoing series on UV Resin 3D Printing, in this short episode I talk about how I add drainage holes for my prints, and why drainage holes are a necessity when printing with a resin printer.
Instagram: @MarkOfTheRhodes
Twitter: @mrhodes
Website: www.markoftherhodes.com
#Resin #3dprinting #resinprinter - Jak na to + styl
Well explained. This video is now 3 years old and is still the best one I have come across so far on drainage holes.
Clear and concise, thanks. I'm glad you've noted that these aren't really holes to drain resin; they're holes to equalize the pressure between the model and the vat so suction doesn't pull it off the build plate.
Simple enough, thanks for the explanation. I was trying to figure out why my print was failing or cracking and this confirmed my suspicion.
Resin printing newbie here and about to start my first print today. Really helpful information here Mark and I really like your clear, down to earth presentation style. Thank you for your help. Subbed.
Outstanding video, man, thank you. I'm a complete newbie and so many videos assume people have been printing for months or years and don't bother explaining the basics step by step. This was so helpful.
Love your clear presentation. The need for drainage holes I needed but the explanation as to the differences between laser and projected LCD resins and required hole sizes was new to me. Learning ..that's a GOOD thing!
One of the best videos explaining draining holes. Good job!
Brilliant and concise explanation! Thanks mate!
Very clear now. You demonstration was great. Thank you.
What a great video! I'm just starting out with resin printing and this sort of explanation with the cup illustration is pure gold! THANK YOU!
Fantastic demonstration. Argh, wish I had seen that before excitedly jumping into dozens and dozens of prints with a handful of failures. You learn a little bit more with each one, but watching a CZcams video like this shortcuts you through multiple trials and errors.
Finally an extremely clear video on this topic. Bravo
Thank you for this excellent explanation!
excellent video mark . thank you
Thank you for the explanation! I knew drainage holes were needed for that last bit of uncured resin, but I hadn't thought about the suction issue at all. I had 3 out of my first 4 prints fail, unrelated to this, I just realized today that my build plate is bent, but having this knowledge will likely save me from more failed prints once they get me a good build plate.
This is what I needed to know u.U, one of my commissioms just bursted and leaked a lot of resin
Nicely describes. That’s the way to go.
Thanks!
Great job mate, thanks for sharing!
I'm getting ready to try my hand at 3D resin printing after a couple years of FDM printing. I think this video is very good and illustrates simple sciences about liquids and air pressure differentials very well. I had not even considered just having the drain holes near the build plate and just inverting after completion so that I could just flip it over and drain it (back in the bottle with a funnel) to save Arnolds hairline with a hole he doesn't need. Very informative and insightful, thanks.
Thank you for this, I would like to echo what others said- this is a very clear, well presented explanation and has already saved me a lot of bum-ache!
this is very helpful tutorial thank you so much for this wonderful explanation
Great content. Very informative!
What a lovely, clearly explained and presented video. Thank you.
Thanks Alastair! Really appreciated 🙂
Agreed, I have just found this now and after all this time it was still the most clearly explained and easy to follow video on ghe topic! Awesome stuff! :)
Great video! Keep going
Thanks for sharing Mark.
Thanks for watching dude!
Thank you! This video helped me troubleshoot an issue I've been having with suction force on a large print. the suction force has been causing wrinkles in my FEP sheets and print failers on my 10-hour prints. Granted I also wasn't hollowing out the print either as I should have been for such a large print.
best video ever, thank you!!
great explanation
Good advice Mark!
Thanks bud. Not sure it's relevant for those of us with a Form2 though... 🤣
Glad I saw this as I was confused and actually though top holes were the best but indeed they are visible.I thought the hole allowed the resin to drain out so the model wasn't too heavy.
Very informative and simple. Thank you, this solved my issue with hollow prints!
Joseph Cochran that's awesome! Glad to help 😁
This was really helpful thank you!
Michael no worries, thanks Michael
Very helpful, thank you
omg this video is a life saver!
You deserve far more subscribers than you have. Amazing video. Thank you so much
Thank you - Very useful video
Thanks so much!
Thanks for explaining it.
Happy to help!
Thank you for your video !
I believe ur video can help me to fix horizen lines of my resin prints
Damnn even after 4 years, this video helped me a lot! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Very good information. The only thing I would do differently is towards the end when he talks about a vase. Orient the vase so the opening is towards the print bed. (upside down for a resin print but would look right side up from an observer). Then you don't need holes in a vase. For a stronger print, print the vase at an angle.
thank you great video
wow..nice explain ever had
Thanks for the info. I’m jumping into resin printing soon. I have the Mars printer arriving this week.
Thanks for watching! I am going to try and make a series out of resin printer posts. There is a bunch I've learned the hard way, and I'd love to share it. I'm also super jealous, I wish I'd jumped and grabbed a Mars earlier!
I got a mars 2 pro yesterday and youtube has been an invaluable resource. Thank you for the videos.
Thanks
thanks
I print with the vat full enough that it doesn't lift the model out of the resin as it builds prints. This reduces the number of trapped bubbles but without a vent hole it sucks up resin internally forcing the outer walls to suck inwards and be distorted. If it does break the surface of the resin in the lift it dumps the resin and leaves a line or a point of failure where this burping occurred.
Great stuff, thanks Mark. This will come in handy when I bite the resin bullet. Cheers, JAYTEE
We both know you will.... :D
@@MarkRhodesMaker 😂
I had existing prints without holes, so after watching this, I drilled two 4.5 mm holes in the bottom of each print, and about 30% had resin immediately leak out. One in particular felt heavier than the others, and was absolutely filled with uncured resin. Like, a LOT of resin. More than paper towel could deal with. Just to be sure, I ended up flushing the prints out with a syringe and IPA over my cleaning tank (using a respirator, safety glasses and ensuring the holes were pointed away from my eyes), and left them to rest on paper towel for a couple of days to let any remaining fluid drain. They are still a bit leaky, so I may have to reseal the holes.
Wow that's crazy, good to know 👍
Yea plus people say if there is enough uncured resin still inside a model it can "eat through" or crack the model eventually. Some guy made a greek bust and it ate a crack through it.
@@jackburton6330 It definitely can. I have models that are years old, and some of them have performed like this. Cracks developed after multiple years of seeing stable, from post processing performed whilst still learning the best ways to do it.
thnx!!
Fantastic job! Thanks a lot that was exactly what I needed to know. Hit "Like" and subscribed.
Nice. Thanks sub.
Great and very informative video! Thank you! One question: In order to use drain holes on the bottom, I have to print with supports, correct? Otherwise print holes will be flush with print bed and won't get air.
Half correct. I have been printing recently with a flexible build plate, and drainage holes are still valid for hollows, as they can’t go on the bottom, I place them in inconspicuous locations instead!
That's the video I was looking for. Amazing thanks! One question: I am printing 12cm by 7cm flat thick plate without supports. Should I make 4 holes on each side?
Kind of depends on the model a little bit. I tend to be a little conservative with the holes on anything but the base, as I'll have to fill the hole later. I also seldom print without supports!
You technically need to add holes to the bottom of any enclosed area, not just whatever the bottommost edge is. Because as you work your way up through the layers, depending on your part and orientation, those areas will basically be separate parts until they join together.
Agreed. These days I generally add a top and bottom hole, it just makes flushing out uncured resin easier, and allows the print to drain after it is finished.
what about printing tanks etc and how about hollowing model more thanks
If your printing something like that plastic cup. Why would you put holes at the top if that's where your build plate is going to be? Wouldn't the build plate just cover that hole you put?
My fiance and I just got a resin 3D printer and this was so much help!!!! One question though, how do you cover the holes once the resin is drained out?
I tend to put my holes in a spot where I don't need to fill them, by hiding them between joints or in under-cuts. But if you do need to fill, you can use any car auto body filler, any plastic filler compound from a hobby store, or you can try a dab of printing resin to fill the hole, then "cook" it with daylight or your curing chamber. Any of those should work a treat.
So I am trying to print a balloon dog where would I put the holes?
Because resin printing happens a full layer at a time, hollowing makes zero difference in print time.
True for MSLA resin printing but not for SLA resin printing.
Beat me to it 😂
I was like “I don’t think this guy knows how resin printers work lol
Trying to understand one thing. In the example with the cup.... the holes allowed air in. If you were to do this with a print however.... aren't those holes still covered by the build plate? Wouldn't the holes need to be off to the side to actually allow air in?
I'm new to this and haven't actually received my printer yet, just doing research and trying to understand it all.
Yes, you are correct. I was going to ask him the same question. My assumption is that he angled that flat bottom part at an angle. But what if we don't angle our piece and want to print flat to bed?
So when you do the holes but then paint the model is there a high chance of some resin slippin thru the hole? i had this print that i fell off my hands and started leaking but i notices kinda late after i touched the resin, was the print drained in a wrong way or does this happen?
Hello, thank you for the video ! What do you mean by "that uncured resin can easily be washed out during the post processing through the two holes" ? Just putting my print with the two wholes in the ultrasonic washing machine is enough to drain the print of its resin ?
Having two holes allows fluid to enter far easier, as a single hole has to allow air out, and allow fluid in. The ultrasonic machine may be enough, but I'd still do a very thorough pre-wash with IPA first.
So i use anycubic and i just slice my prints on there and when it says punch holes does it just mean drain holes
What about for minutures? Are there any prints that don't need holes ?
Great video btw ! Definitely subbed
Hi! Yes there are. Models that have minimal internal spaces don’t need it. Most slicers will be able to tell you if you need a hollow and drainage hole based upon the internal dimensions
Good video (thank you!), but isn't it wrong to say that hollowing your prints decreases print time?
I mean, it does with an FDM printer, but isn't the print time per layer the same for resin printing regardless of the surface area of each given layer?
I know it takes the same time for me to print 20 cubes in 1 batch as it does to print 1, as each layer is set the same!
Edit: nvm, I seen some of the comments here regarding the difference between sla and msla, nice to know.
Thanks!!!! :D
Fair comment. At the time I was using a laser based SLA system, not a masked SLA style that is now far more common. That comment dated horribly and doesn’t apply for most resin printers nowadays. That said, hollow your models! You’ll never cure a solid model and it will just ooze raw resin until it cracks.
Anything we need to know about orientation with resin printing?
YES! That is actually a topic I have on my list to cover. Happy to bump it up on the list, and get it finished sooner.
does the holes on the bottom will work? after all your prints' bottom will stick to the build plate, the hole will still be sealed. Making the hole on the side will make more sense, right?
jianzhi meng only if you are not using supports. And the bottom of a print is usually face down in the finished product, hiding the hole!
The holes covered by the plate it makes no sense
Sorry, it’s not covered.
Does anyone make those style vats for other printers?? I'd love mine on my mono x
Don’t know sorry!
Hi I need help how to print jig for nintendo switch there should be two holes inserting paperclip how i can make them or how print them? IF i leave with holes of course there will be no holes.
Drop me a message via twitter? I can try to help.
If printing a vase or cup, maybe print it "upside down" so that the mouth is toward the build plate? Mother of all vent holes?
The Garden of Eatin As long as it's angled and the rim is on supports, yep!
Just wondering, if we hollow inside the model with like a hexagon pattern does the resin flow out in only two holes? Looks like each hexagon is an enclosed space itself.
I don’t think I understand sorry!
@@MarkRhodesMaker This is an infill similar to fdm you have 3 or 4 layers outside and than the infil 20, 30 percent or more just to hold the model together. You can select different patterns like square, hexagon, lines etc.
@@RestorationAustralia gotcha. I don’t recommend infill for resin. Infill isn’t usually required for resin except for very large models.
Traditional infill patterns also are not a great idea for resin as they can trap uncured resin, and besides those internal structures are really hard to post cure. There are specific infill patterns for resin that are more open for curing and draining purposes, but as I said, not really required except for big models.
@@MarkRhodesMaker I see that is what I thought it will be difficult to cure and difficult to drain. The problem is in the Photon workshop I can't see an option with-out the infill. Not sure how to get around, hmmm. Thanks for your help😊
@@RestorationAustralia try a different slicer! I use chitubox and lycheeslicer.
Great video!! What would happen in the instance there were internal supports that can't be cured? For example, if this model had a solid neck and there were supports in the head (and no drainage hole)?
That’s a tough one. It’s possible the model would split or warp over time. I have a few older prints where uncured resin has caused splits up to two years later.
So you do holes to the bigger prints?
Always! Very few prints don’t require one
So what if your printing parts meant for mechanical purposes and you can't afford to have holes in it? Just print it solid?
I'd suggest if that was required, then maybe really overexpose each layer. I'd say there's still a solid chance it will ooze resin or crack down the track however. It'll be impossible to cure internally completely.
How would this work with jewellery models, especially with chunky detailed hollowed ring models?
I think for those you’d need drainage, and then plug the holes post cure
@@MarkRhodesMaker Thank you.
What about a non hollow design?
Hey Jack. If it's not hollow, you won't need to drain it. It might cause some suction issues, and could also introduce different problems, such as uncured resin internally.
I accidentally printed a model without holes, and im almost certain its 100% filled with resin, it feels quite heavy. Is it possible that the suction draws resin up into the model so it can never drain? i thought that there might be a cm of resin pooled in the area that was printed last (because thats how much resin was left in the vat) but it suspect its FULL of uncured resin.
Like, if you put a cup in a sink full of water and filled it up, then turned it upside down and lift it above the surface of the water, the water inside the cup stays inside until the brim of the cup breaks the surface of the water and then it all drains out in a instant. I think that is what happened to my model. The resin just never drained because of the suction.
Yep! It will fill up and get trapped. Carefully drill it out before you cure the outside with a small (5mm or smaller) drill bit
Are you sure you didn't print it solid? Did you end up drilling it? UPDATE: I drilled mine and sure enough, FULL of uncured resin. You should be ready to drain it into your vat. My 8 cm high model contained more resin than 6 paper towels could deal with. I think you could even reuse it, since it has been in a sealed vessel all this time.
What if you want the 3D printed object to have heft or weight to it? Is there something you can fill the hollow object with after curing? Like sand or something?
I haven’t tried it but have considered using a slow setting epoxy or polyurethane resin, as long as it doesn’t get hot it’ll be fine. Sand would work too, you might just have to fill the holes to stop it leaking out.
@@MarkRhodesMaker thanks! Also, does a clear resin object need to be hollow? Or can UV light cure it all the way through since it’s transparent?
@@roofoofighter It probably cures better, but it still needs to be hollow.
Are there any ways to fill back the holes after we're done with the printing?
Mix some resin with baby powder (talcum) to create a paste, then fill it by hand (with gloves, obviously), cure it with a light, and then sand it.
The video I saw suggested 4:1 talcum:resin, but start lower until you get the consistency you want. Talcum is chemically inert, we don't need to worry about it reacting poorly.
@@GamesFromSpace thanks man!
If sla cures a full layer at a time, why would hollow prints print faster?
SesameStFighter you are correct, however I was referring to SLA not mSLA. This is using a laser not an LCD mask, so it’s faster when hollow. For mSLA layer cure time is consistent regardless of the model
@@MarkRhodesMaker thanks for the reply, another question for you. Other than cost, is there any benefit for printing hollows on a msla printer? Just got a Mars pro literally an hour ago
SesameStFighter yeah actually! You can’t cure past a couple of millimeters, so if not hollow, the uncured resin will seep out over time, which is unhealthy, messy and can ruin finishes
@@MarkRhodesMaker brilliant, thank you so much
I was thinking i could print a 2mm dowel rod, and then fill the holes and cut them flush after cleaning.
Chitubox actually has this feature. It’s called “Keep Holes”. I actually think it’s easier to fill the holes with a drop of uncured resin and then flash it with sunlight or UV.
Hands. hands. HANDS. hands. hands. there were probably words too - but who knows?
wait.....hold on dude.....isn't it sticking because as you place the cup you press in on it just a tiny bit and thus creating suction.....do that with a glass cup !!!!!
It was a demonstration to illustrate a point. I pushed to create a partial vacuum, with resin does this as it hardens.
bro stopped the video so i can talk. like