I realize this video is about a yr old. But I just wanted to say thank you for making it. I have really needed to make a table saw sled for a while now. But pretty much every video I watched, while they were good methods, they just weren't for me. I followed along with your video, as I constructed my sled, and it was extremely easy to understand and follow along. Again, thank you very much, I greatly appreciate you taking the time to show how to do this! Take care!
Finally a simple sled! Good grief every video says simple cross cut sled and then you realize you need a trigonometry refresher class to build it. This was actually simple design that gets the job done, nice job 👍
I like your design with t track and stop…another suggestion Most cut slides shallow not proud to eliminate bottom drag then raise slides with washers or coins before gluing so the only friction is on the side of the slides
Well done. Why do some CZcamsrs make building a table saw sled more complicated than building a nuclear submarine? And that 5 cut method, I’m sure the wood would move more than the correction some make. Great video.
By having the strips stand proud of the mitre slots you are creating more friction resistance, the strips should be shallower than the slots so that the bottom doesn’t rub along the base of the slots
@@HowIDoThingsDIYYes. That’s how you keep your sled surface parallel to the table saw top (and therefore perpendicular to the 90 degree blade) after you cut through the top between the two runners. That’s why all 4,987 all crosscut sled videos show using washers or dimes to hold the slightly shallow-cut runners flush with the table saw top when you tack them to the sled top with glue.
Awesome! If it helps, I also sell plans for this and other table saw jigs on my website for a very reasonable price. Check it out! howidothingsdiy.com/printable-pdf-plans/ols/products
Even though I'm happy with the square of my cuts, I'm positive the five cut method is better, and I'd recommend anyone following my instructions to add that to this process. Thanks for contributing to the comments!
What modifications are needed on the fence? This sled uses the miter slots. The fence really shouldn't matter. In fact, you don't even need a fence to use this sled. Please let me know how else I can help.
@@TwoCatsUp I'm sorry, I'm not sure what you're asking. You can email me if you want to discuss. However, as long as your saw has miter slots, your shouldn't have an issue. howidothingsdiy@gmail.co m
Thanks! Love the tooth gleem at the beginning, nice touch! Surprised you didn't do the 5 cut method to dial it in. Were you aiming more for the DIYer/making it simple/more accessible?
Hello Sir. I love your presentation. I have a Dewalt table saw that the surface is 19 X 19 what do you suggest the available working space to be excluding the thickness of the fences ? I appreciate your input.
It really depends on what size lumber you want to cut. If you're trying to 4x8 sheets of plywood, the bigger the work surface, the better. I was limited because I had to fold my saw back up and store it away.
Let me add…By keeping those parallel fence tops, you also have the cradle for a router sled slab flattening jig. Doubling up its usefulness for those without a thickness planer huh!
For V2 have you seen any issues with using 2x4s for fences? Some also move back fence forward and add a finger guard…seems to also add structural support, sled may have to be closer to 24x24…
I actually added a finger guard later. I've also made plans for my website that shows this (link in description). For V2 I would probably use 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood laminated together. But I still have no issues with the milled 2x4s either.
Hi. I always look at your clips and I have noticed when you cut , I do not see any dust on your table saw. What is the trick ? I have attached my table saw to a cyclone which is connected to a 5 hp Ridgid vacuume and I still see saw dust on my table saw. Please advise. Thanks. By the way I have a Dewalt table saw too.
Well, I use a DeWalt dust extractor, which is designed for this and cycles the two filters to clean them as it's running. amzn.to/3Lo6hTn I also use a zero clearance insert, which can cut down on dust. Is your vacuum full? Is the dust port clogged?
Thanks for such a quick response. I have a zero insert plate, my vacuum is always empty because of the cyclocon, dust port is not clogged up. I use a very nice hose for that. After my cuts I see a lot of fine dust sitting to the right of the blade where there is a black fabric. I also see dust on the surface of saw and around me.
@bijan4727 I haven't used a cyclone, but I've heard they can reduce CFM. The Funny Carpenter did a good video on dust collection. czcams.com/video/732NcGHuOoQ/video.htmlsi=oSADBq4Cic8S6_QQ. I think the key is to measure the CFM inside the blade housing.
0:41 - well I'll be dang that's where the blade wrench storage is. Just got the DWE7491 and was baffled. Now then, does that reduced diameter dust connection provide sufficient removal?
Haha. Yes, that's where it is. Yes, my dust setup has been about 90% adequate. However, if a larger piece falls down there, it can clog easily. If you have the ability to keep the diameter the same or larger than the output on the saw, definitely do that. Also, note that I'm using a dust extractor, which is a little better than a shop vac but obviously not as good as a true dust collection system. Thanks for watching! I have many other videos on this saw on my channel.
Do you think solid dimensional lumber would be too prone to warping and pulling your sled out of alignment w seasonal and moisture changes? As opposed to more stable alternating cross grain of plywood? I have an outdoor shop I wonder if that would be a big concern if I make this sled with solid wood fence? Have you had any issues?
I have had some issues with it getting a little tight. I lightly sanded and rewaxed and it seems good now. However. I used 1/2" plywood on my taper jig and I may even just buy the UHMW guides for my next one. That stuff is super slippery.
Alright cool love the video just got into woodworking last year and need a crosscut sled my only problem is my table saw only has one runner (only 1 track) so I think a crosscut sled may be impossible on this saw lol..like wtf never seen that on a saw b4 lol but it was a gift.. I do have another saw that may work with your sled, thanks!
@@fabianherrera5427 You can make one with one rail. Some people prefer that even when their saw has two. If you're new, I've got lots of content to get you started! Thanks for watching.
Brilliant video dude but I honestly wish u would make them a bit longer. It would be great to see the step by step slowed down a little bcos there are loads of us just beginning and this is still daunting. I bought a table saw bcos it was all I could afford and believe me I will be upgrading once I get the money together. I'm saving for a cabinet and a Bandsaw of a higher calibre. Both together will end up costing me 3,500 euros which isn't a whole lot when u consider some saws are astronomical in price.. My table saw is a cheaper model but has a fair bit of power and it scares me a little. LMAO. I have a question if u don't mind me asking one bro.. Q. My table is off on one corner by a 16/32 of an inch and it means my Mitre gauge has this weird wobble from side to side. Will a good sled stop that bro? or do I need to take the table off and reposition it and maybe use a couple of narrow washers to lift it slightly?? Look bro I paid less than 200 euros for this bloody thing. It's a start up saw for me and I'm new to this game. I stupidly thought it'd be ok and it cuts clean as u like but that kink at the side I use my Mitre gauge at is doing my head in. I was thinking of taking off the table top and building my own one from that plywood with the brown surface on it?? I can take the top off bcos I've had a look and there's bolts and shit under there which means I can change the top out and put my own in there instead and I can finally make it level.. Do u think it's worth it or what bro?? Love the channel btw so keep these top videos coming now man. My workshop is on the process of changing from a one car garage into my fulltime workshop.. I cannot wait man.. It's finally starting to come together now.. Oh lord it's costing some amount of money but it'll be worth it in the end..
Thanks for the detailed comments. Haha. You asked so many questions I don't even know where to start. First off, I have very affordable digital plans for this sled and others on my website if you're interested. Www.howidothingsdiy.com Also. What table saw do you have? Does it have a manual you can reference to adjust it?
Not the rabbit which is on the top of the fence. The slot I saw was on bottom of fence where the fence attaches to base of sled. I didn’t see you cut that slot in video. What purpose does the slot do?
Great video! I need to make a new sled because I got a new saw… like yours in fact. ;) I was thinking I might run a rabbet along the back fence to help assure alignment. What do you think?
@@HowIDoThingsDIY Perfect alignment between the base and the rear fence. By having the hard stop front to back by clamping the rear fence up against base (other end of the clamp on the front of the base) the align can’t change. It just is aligned. I could just drop the rear fence off the rear of the base as well, that just seems like asking for future problems if the sled gets knocked around.
Ok. I think I know what you're saying now. Honestly, I wouldn't do that because the rear of the fence doesn't need to be aligned with the back of the base. It needs to be aligned with the slot the blade cut in the base.
@@HowIDoThingsDIY Indeed, but we cut the back of the base using the fence… it is guareenteed to be aligned to the blade. If not the fence should be aligned to blade as the mitre slots should be before we start creating the sled.
I just think you have two many variables that can add to the tolerance stack up. But give it a try and let me know how it works out! Ins a neat idea for sure.
Great question. At that point, I didn't have the countersinking drill bits, so I had to do it separately. I have them now, and I use them on my new builds.
Of all the directional videos I have watched on "How to build a table Sled," you are the first to glue push fence. All others say, do not glue just in case you ever have to adjust square.
That is a countersink bit. Something like this amzn.to/3wo7MMT But I actually prefer the drill bits with the countersink attachment on it like this amzn.to/3HZ4Adk
Which screw do you need the size for? The rails or the fences? The fence screws can be pretty long because the fences are pretty thick. 2"or so should be fine for that. The rail screws just need to be long enough to grab but hopefully not go through, or you will need to grind them down. It's tricky to specify those because it depends on how deep you sink them. There may be some trial and error. I'm sorry for the confusion.
Ok cool thanks. I have the exact same powertec Tyra k and stop that’s why I asked I finished it today. Looks the same thanks for the video I appreciate it.
I assume you mean the 5 cut method? Honestly, I didn't know about that technique when I made this sled. The next one I make I would definitely use the 5 cut method. Thanks for watching!
My sled is pretty basic except for the t-track stop. Since this video I also added a safety block on the back What options or features have you guys used on your crosscut sleds? Download the plans for this sled on my webpage! www.howidothingsdiy.com
I give you a 10 on the Cross Cut Sled and 0 on safety. You came mighty close to the saw blade with your long baggy sleeves. Safety FIRST! Most table saws run in the 3,000 to 4,000 rpm range and can grab your sleeve pulling your all arm in to the blade faster than Bruce Lee.
I 100% agree! I even covered that in my table saw safety tips short. This was pretty early into my experience with a table saw and I had a lot to learn. I guess I still learn every day but I try to be a little safer every day as well.
I think he knows better, but in case this is the first video people watch and don't check out his table saw safety video, also note the push stick used allowed the board to pop up over the blade before being forced back down multiple times -- that's kickback 101. 2 hands, 2 pushing instruments, constant pressure applied in 3 directions: downward, toward the fence, and only then, forward. Amazon push stick kit for $20 comes with multiple rubber padded handles that give you (almost) the same features as a microjig grrripper.
Even though I made this sled when I was a rookie. I'm still ok with it. I'm not sure it matters if there's a 1/32" gap between the sled and the table. As and engineer, I can appreciate less friction of less material in contact with the table. Everyone has their own way! Thanks for the comment!
@@HowIDoThingsDIY we all start somewhere and still do rookie things after decades. It wasn’t meant as criticism really but more seeing if you’d noticed these things as you’ve used it. Making jigs always starts with that first prototype and we find things we want to improve in future versions. None of us built that perfect jig the first time. Perfect is not possible. I personally shoot for “damn close”
Damn close is pretty good for me. Now that I know what a sled should be, I've been planing the next version. I appreciate the comments. Don't worry, you're not going to hurt my feelings. Hahah.
@@HowIDoThingsDIY I had hoped I didn’t come across too abrasive. I’m currently trying to properly align everything on a table saw I just purchased. These things always turn into a bigger job than I imagine they will be. And more expensive
nice sled. BUT, you must be more carefull when cutting on your tablesaw. some day you WILL get hurt if you dont force the wood all the way through the blade, and never have a shirt with loose arms that close to the blade. Just a nice warning. I have a pal that lost half an arm doing exactly what you are showing in this video. Be carefull mate 🙂
This is a bad build. Should have used 2 pieces of 3/4' plywood glued together for both back & front fences. Should have used the 5 cut method to square the front the fence.
For sure! Not sure when I did it, but yes, that is a big no-no. In my defense, I was still new to table saws when I made this. Since then I researched more about table saw safety and even made a short to show what I learned. Thanks for watching and thanks for pointing this out!
Ok... I feel like I've put in a lot of work for this to be fake. Maybe I'm living in the matrix. Hahah... am I living in the matrix... oh crap. This is the matrix isn't it... is my my website fake too??? Please let me know because now I'm freaking out. Www.howidothingsdiy.com
HEY TRAVIS. I HAVE NO NEED FOR A BABY SLED. I SAW SOMEBODY USING A SMALL DEWALT JOBSITE TABLE SAW AND A SITE MADE SLED BIG ENOUGH TO CUT 4X8 SHEETS. HOW DO I MAKE ONE OF THOSE? IT WAS A LONG TIME AGO AND DID NOT GET A GOOD LOOK AT IT.
Wow!!! That sled must be huge. Essentially, you would need to scale up the sled to fit whatever size you need to cut. So if you want to be able to rip 4' sheet, then your sled needs to be over 4' from front to back. But ripping 4x8 sheets with a sled seems unsafe to me. I'd rather just have a good outfeed table and a zero clearance insert.
I BELIRVE IT WAS A FULL 4X8 SHEET.SHEETS WERE CROSSCUT TO KITCHEN CABINET LENGTH THEN RIPPED.THE SLED MAY HAVE HAD SOME LEGS WTH WHEELS BECAUSE OF IT'S SIZE.I WAS TOO BUSY TO REALLY TAKE A GOOD LOOK AT IT. I AM NOT GOOD AT INVENTING. SO I WAS HOPING YOU COULD. THANKS.@@HowIDoThingsDIY
@BobHolster-om8rf Ahh, if you're building cabinets, I would consider a track saw. Take a look at this video. It really is the best way to cut down sheets. czcams.com/video/00wXEfpjs04/video.html
It looks like I have all the tools listed in the video description with links. I also have plans for a very reasonable price if you want to help support my channel (pasted in the link). Let me know if you need more information. Thanks! howidothingsdiy.com/plans/ols/products/simple-crosscut-sled-w-t-track-stop
I realize this video is about a yr old. But I just wanted to say thank you for making it. I have really needed to make a table saw sled for a while now. But pretty much every video I watched, while they were good methods, they just weren't for me. I followed along with your video, as I constructed my sled, and it was extremely easy to understand and follow along. Again, thank you very much, I greatly appreciate you taking the time to show how to do this! Take care!
That's awesome! Thanks so much. If you are interested, I have downloadable plans for other jigs and fixtures on my website. Www.howidothingsdiy.com
Wow! This was really easy to understand !!! I will do this. Thank you and God bless .
Great!!
Finally a simple sled! Good grief every video says simple cross cut sled and then you realize you need a trigonometry refresher class to build it. This was actually simple design that gets the job done, nice job 👍
Thank you, and thanks for the comment!
wow that chikola move at 0:16 wow well done chiko
Thanks! I try to have fun with it.
I have always had issues with cross cuts. Great video
Thanks!
I like your design with t track and stop…another suggestion
Most cut slides shallow not proud to eliminate bottom drag then raise slides with washers or coins before gluing so the only friction is on the side of the slides
Great idea. I've considered that since I built this. I'm collecting Ideas for V2 already!
Well done. Why do some CZcamsrs make building a table saw sled more complicated than building a nuclear submarine? And that 5 cut method, I’m sure the wood would move more than the correction some make. Great video.
Thanks! I think everyone is looking for a gimmick to stand out. My gimmick was simplicity.
Wow! You definitely speak my learning language!! I think I can actually make one of my own now.
Thanks! You keep watching, I'll keep making more content!
Great simple sled
Thank you! I'm loving it. I just want to add a guard block.
Awesome job!
Thanks!
5:24 rubbing wood glue on your hands like lotion is wild 😭😭
Mmmm. I love wood glue lotion. Makes my skin nice and crispy!
Brilliant, finally some easy to understand instructions!!
Ya, I kept it simple. I didn't feel the need to complicated cutting a simple crosscut.
By having the strips stand proud of the mitre slots you are creating more friction resistance, the strips should be shallower than the slots so that the bottom doesn’t rub along the base of the slots
Ok. But then wouldn't you have the entire bottom of the sled draging on the face table surface? Thanks for the comment and suggestion.
@@HowIDoThingsDIYYes. That’s how you keep your sled surface parallel to the table saw top (and therefore perpendicular to the 90 degree blade) after you cut through the top between the two runners. That’s why all 4,987 all crosscut sled videos show using washers or dimes to hold the slightly shallow-cut runners flush with the table saw top when you tack them to the sled top with glue.
@@wulf67 Good point. You definitely don't want to have the bottom of the miter bars dragging in the miter slots.
@shotparrot Ya. That wouldn't be good!
Great video! Thanks for sharing your time and talent!
No, problem! Thanks for watching!
This cross cut sled will be the first project I will be making with my brand-new table saw tomorrow! Thank you for sharing how to make it.
Awesome! If it helps, I also sell plans for this and other table saw jigs on my website for a very reasonable price. Check it out! howidothingsdiy.com/printable-pdf-plans/ols/products
Great video. Thanks so much!
You're welcome!
I foresee a great future for you channel! Great videos, editing, & presentation. Looking forward to many years of more tips!
Thank you!
Post video of the results of the five cut method on this sled. I’m curious to see how that stacks up against using a square on a 2x4 fence
Even though I'm happy with the square of my cuts, I'm positive the five cut method is better, and I'd recommend anyone following my instructions to add that to this process. Thanks for contributing to the comments!
lol you got a like from me before the first 20 seconds were up! Brill intro!
Haha. Thanks!
I'm using an 1980s Craftsman Contractor table saw. How important is it that I modify the fence before attempting to follow your instructions?
What modifications are needed on the fence? This sled uses the miter slots. The fence really shouldn't matter. In fact, you don't even need a fence to use this sled. Please let me know how else I can help.
@@HowIDoThingsDIY I meant during the construction of the sled.
@@TwoCatsUp I'm sorry, I'm not sure what you're asking. You can email me if you want to discuss. However, as long as your saw has miter slots, your shouldn't have an issue. howidothingsdiy@gmail.co m
Update: I per everyone's suggestions, I added a stop block since this video. Thanks for the suggestion!
Thanks! Love the tooth gleem at the beginning, nice touch! Surprised you didn't do the 5 cut method to dial it in. Were you aiming more for the DIYer/making it simple/more accessible?
Exactly. Basic, quick and easy. I plan to make a more advanced one in the next year. I'll definitely show the 5 cut method. Thanks for watching.
Most add a chamfer to front of back fence as a saw dust chute
Where it meets the base?
@@HowIDoThingsDIY yes
Hello Sir. I love your presentation. I have a Dewalt table saw that the surface is 19 X 19 what do you suggest the available working space to be excluding the thickness of the fences ? I appreciate your input.
It really depends on what size lumber you want to cut. If you're trying to 4x8 sheets of plywood, the bigger the work surface, the better. I was limited because I had to fold my saw back up and store it away.
Let me add…By keeping those parallel fence tops, you also have the cradle for a router sled slab flattening jig. Doubling up its usefulness for those without a thickness planer huh!
Interesting! Never thought of that!!! Thanks for the add!
For V2 have you seen any issues with using 2x4s for fences? Some also move back fence forward and add a finger guard…seems to also add structural support, sled may have to be closer to 24x24…
I actually added a finger guard later. I've also made plans for my website that shows this (link in description). For V2 I would probably use 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood laminated together. But I still have no issues with the milled 2x4s either.
Hi. I always look at your clips and I have noticed when you cut , I do not see any dust on your table saw. What is the trick ? I have attached my table saw to a cyclone which is connected to a 5 hp Ridgid vacuume and I still see saw dust on my table saw. Please advise. Thanks. By the way I have a Dewalt table saw too.
Well, I use a DeWalt dust extractor, which is designed for this and cycles the two filters to clean them as it's running. amzn.to/3Lo6hTn I also use a zero clearance insert, which can cut down on dust. Is your vacuum full? Is the dust port clogged?
Thanks for such a quick response. I have a zero insert plate, my vacuum is always empty because of the cyclocon, dust port is not clogged up. I use a very nice hose for that. After my cuts I see a lot of fine dust sitting to the right of the blade where there is a black fabric. I also see dust on the surface of saw and around me.
@bijan4727 I haven't used a cyclone, but I've heard they can reduce CFM. The Funny Carpenter did a good video on dust collection. czcams.com/video/732NcGHuOoQ/video.htmlsi=oSADBq4Cic8S6_QQ. I think the key is to measure the CFM inside the blade housing.
Hi there, thanks for this - what size screws were you using for this project?
For the miter guides, I believe they were 3/4". Measure the thickness of your rails and base. Remember that you will be countersinking the screws.
0:41 - well I'll be dang that's where the blade wrench storage is. Just got the DWE7491 and was baffled. Now then, does that reduced diameter dust connection provide sufficient removal?
Haha. Yes, that's where it is. Yes, my dust setup has been about 90% adequate. However, if a larger piece falls down there, it can clog easily. If you have the ability to keep the diameter the same or larger than the output on the saw, definitely do that. Also, note that I'm using a dust extractor, which is a little better than a shop vac but obviously not as good as a true dust collection system. Thanks for watching! I have many other videos on this saw on my channel.
Eye contact on point👀😂😂
I like heavy, awkward eye contact.
Do you think solid dimensional lumber would be too prone to warping and pulling your sled out of alignment w seasonal and moisture changes? As opposed to more stable alternating cross grain of plywood? I have an outdoor shop I wonder if that would be a big concern if I make this sled with solid wood fence? Have you had any issues?
I have had some issues with it getting a little tight. I lightly sanded and rewaxed and it seems good now. However. I used 1/2" plywood on my taper jig and I may even just buy the UHMW guides for my next one. That stuff is super slippery.
Alright cool love the video just got into woodworking last year and need a crosscut sled my only problem is my table saw only has one runner (only 1 track) so I think a crosscut sled may be impossible on this saw lol..like wtf never seen that on a saw b4 lol but it was a gift.. I do have another saw that may work with your sled, thanks!
@@fabianherrera5427 You can make one with one rail. Some people prefer that even when their saw has two. If you're new, I've got lots of content to get you started! Thanks for watching.
Question are you using an 8 1/4 or 10 inch blade in the video?
10" blade.
Brilliant video dude but I honestly wish u would make them a bit longer. It would be great to see the step by step slowed down a little bcos there are loads of us just beginning and this is still daunting.
I bought a table saw bcos it was all I could afford and believe me I will be upgrading once I get the money together. I'm saving for a cabinet and a Bandsaw of a higher calibre. Both together will end up costing me 3,500 euros which isn't a whole lot when u consider some saws are astronomical in price..
My table saw is a cheaper model but has a fair bit of power and it scares me a little. LMAO.
I have a question if u don't mind me asking one bro..
Q. My table is off on one corner by a 16/32 of an inch and it means my Mitre gauge has this weird wobble from side to side. Will a good sled stop that bro? or do I need to take the table off and reposition it and maybe use a couple of narrow washers to lift it slightly??
Look bro I paid less than 200 euros for this bloody thing. It's a start up saw for me and I'm new to this game. I stupidly thought it'd be ok and it cuts clean as u like but that kink at the side I use my Mitre gauge at is doing my head in.
I was thinking of taking off the table top and building my own one from that plywood with the brown surface on it?? I can take the top off bcos I've had a look and there's bolts and shit under there which means I can change the top out and put my own in there instead and I can finally make it level..
Do u think it's worth it or what bro??
Love the channel btw so keep these top videos coming now man. My workshop is on the process of changing from a one car garage into my fulltime workshop.. I cannot wait man.. It's finally starting to come together now.. Oh lord it's costing some amount of money but it'll be worth it in the end..
Thanks for the detailed comments. Haha. You asked so many questions I don't even know where to start. First off, I have very affordable digital plans for this sled and others on my website if you're interested. Www.howidothingsdiy.com Also. What table saw do you have? Does it have a manual you can reference to adjust it?
Nice simple, quick. But I would never glue it all together before testing it's squareness...I don't have that kind of confidence (experience talking)
Good call. Thanks for the comment!
You had a slot in the fence,what was the purpose of this.did you edit it out?
Was it to get fence square????
I think I understand your question. I added a rabbet to the fence to add the t track to have a stop. Does that answer your question?
Not the rabbit which is on the top of the fence.
The slot I saw was on bottom of fence where the fence attaches to base of sled.
I didn’t see you cut that slot in video.
What purpose does the slot do?
Great video! I need to make a new sled because I got a new saw… like yours in fact. ;) I was thinking I might run a rabbet along the back fence to help assure alignment. What do you think?
Thanks. What are you hoping to achieve by adding the rabbet?
@@HowIDoThingsDIY Perfect alignment between the base and the rear fence. By having the hard stop front to back by clamping the rear fence up against base (other end of the clamp on the front of the base) the align can’t change. It just is aligned. I could just drop the rear fence off the rear of the base as well, that just seems like asking for future problems if the sled gets knocked around.
Ok. I think I know what you're saying now. Honestly, I wouldn't do that because the rear of the fence doesn't need to be aligned with the back of the base. It needs to be aligned with the slot the blade cut in the base.
@@HowIDoThingsDIY Indeed, but we cut the back of the base using the fence… it is guareenteed to be aligned to the blade. If not the fence should be aligned to blade as the mitre slots should be before we start creating the sled.
I just think you have two many variables that can add to the tolerance stack up. But give it a try and let me know how it works out! Ins a neat idea for sure.
Why you don’t put a finger protector at the front fence
I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean a finger protector behind the fence? I added that later and included it in my plans on my website.
my fence has a slight bow to it. how two I straighten it so I can square the fence?
If you're not able to find a straight 2x4, you can also use 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood glued together.
Is there any reason you drilled the holes and countersink separate instead of all at one go with a countersink bit?
Great question. At that point, I didn't have the countersinking drill bits, so I had to do it separately. I have them now, and I use them on my new builds.
Of all the directional videos I have watched on "How to build a table Sled," you are the first to glue push fence. All others say, do not glue just in case you ever have to adjust square.
You could, I guess. However, once you have it where you want it, I really don't see a situation where it would ever need to be adjusted.
at 4:56 what is the tool that you attach to the drill to go into the wood?
That is a countersink bit. Something like this amzn.to/3wo7MMT But I actually prefer the drill bits with the countersink attachment on it like this amzn.to/3HZ4Adk
@@HowIDoThingsDIY Thank You.
@@knightsofgbs9524 You're welcome.
What brand is your saw? I’ve never seen a fence operate like yours.
It's a Dewalt DWE7491. If you're interested, I just did a 1 year review of it here. czcams.com/video/b_kvupoZll8/video.html
Need to do this but don't feel like it.
Hahahahahha. Ok.
Your plans don’t give the screw size?
Which screw do you need the size for? The rails or the fences? The fence screws can be pretty long because the fences are pretty thick. 2"or so should be fine for that. The rail screws just need to be long enough to grab but hopefully not go through, or you will need to grind them down. It's tricky to specify those because it depends on how deep you sink them. There may be some trial and error. I'm sorry for the confusion.
So what did you use to cut the T track? Band saw?
I just cut it very slowly in my miter saw. I've used it to cut aluminum like this a few times.
Ok cool thanks. I have the exact same powertec Tyra k and stop that’s why I asked I finished it today. Looks the same thanks for the video I appreciate it.
The only difference is I used micro jig zero clearance runners.
The only difference is I used micro jig zero clearance runners.
No problem!
How become you didn't use the 10 cut method?
I assume you mean the 5 cut method? Honestly, I didn't know about that technique when I made this sled. The next one I make I would definitely use the 5 cut method. Thanks for watching!
My sled is pretty basic except for the t-track stop. Since this video I also added a safety block on the back What options or features have you guys used on your crosscut sleds? Download the plans for this sled on my webpage! www.howidothingsdiy.com
I give you a 10 on the Cross Cut Sled and 0 on safety. You came mighty close to the saw blade with your long baggy sleeves.
Safety FIRST! Most table saws run in the 3,000 to 4,000 rpm range and can grab your sleeve pulling your all arm in to the blade faster than Bruce Lee.
I 100% agree! I even covered that in my table saw safety tips short. This was pretty early into my experience with a table saw and I had a lot to learn. I guess I still learn every day but I try to be a little safer every day as well.
I think he knows better, but in case this is the first video people watch and don't check out his table saw safety video, also note the push stick used allowed the board to pop up over the blade before being forced back down multiple times -- that's kickback 101.
2 hands, 2 pushing instruments, constant pressure applied in 3 directions: downward, toward the fence, and only then, forward.
Amazon push stick kit for $20 comes with multiple rubber padded handles that give you (almost) the same features as a microjig grrripper.
Also the 1st cut was a thin piece of wood he had on the fence, thought that was a no-no. BTW just a guy new to table saws.
And now then - who the heck sells "almost" knot-free 2 x 4's? And what, no 5-cut squareness checking routine everyone talks about?
Hahahha. Ya. It's hard to find good 2x4's. If I could do it again, I would use 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood laminated together.
Dado to rabbit?
Good catch. That's definitely a rabbet cut for the t-track in the fence. Thanks for the correction!
@@HowIDoThingsDIY 😆 I’m watching on my phone in my shop so it was hard to see. Thanks.
Haha. I've totally been there. Sometimes its hard to focus on the build, what to say and filming all at the same time.
I’m betting you realize cutting slides that touch bottom of slots and stand proud was a huge Rookie mistake
Even though I made this sled when I was a rookie. I'm still ok with it. I'm not sure it matters if there's a 1/32" gap between the sled and the table. As and engineer, I can appreciate less friction of less material in contact with the table. Everyone has their own way! Thanks for the comment!
@@HowIDoThingsDIY we all start somewhere and still do rookie things after decades. It wasn’t meant as criticism really but more seeing if you’d noticed these things as you’ve used it.
Making jigs always starts with that first prototype and we find things we want to improve in future versions. None of us built that perfect jig the first time. Perfect is not possible. I personally shoot for “damn close”
Damn close is pretty good for me. Now that I know what a sled should be, I've been planing the next version. I appreciate the comments. Don't worry, you're not going to hurt my feelings. Hahah.
@@HowIDoThingsDIY I had hoped I didn’t come across too abrasive. I’m currently trying to properly align everything on a table saw I just purchased. These things always turn into a bigger job than I imagine they will be. And more expensive
@@Dan-qn3su No problem. I totally understand. I'm just trying to share what ai learn.
nice sled. BUT, you must be more carefull when cutting on your tablesaw. some day you WILL get hurt if you dont force the wood all the way through the blade, and never have a shirt with loose arms that close to the blade. Just a nice warning. I have a pal that lost half an arm doing exactly what you are showing in this video. Be carefull mate 🙂
Thanks for pointing that out. I've corrected both of those things since this video. Thanks for the comment!
@@HowIDoThingsDIY
This is a bad build. Should have used 2 pieces of 3/4' plywood glued together for both back & front fences. Should have used the 5 cut method to square the front the fence.
Thanks for the constructive feedback. Since this video I corrected that and put it in my plans available on my website. Thanks for the comment.
I'm new to this. Just wondering if you could please explain why 2 pieces of 3/4' plywood glued together for the fences is better? Thanks
It will make it stronger and give you more meat to screw with 2 boards instead of one.
Reaching over your turning blade is a recipe for disaster and death. Just sayin’.
For sure! Not sure when I did it, but yes, that is a big no-no. In my defense, I was still new to table saws when I made this. Since then I researched more about table saw safety and even made a short to show what I learned. Thanks for watching and thanks for pointing this out!
lol fake channel
Ok... I feel like I've put in a lot of work for this to be fake. Maybe I'm living in the matrix. Hahah... am I living in the matrix... oh crap. This is the matrix isn't it... is my my website fake too??? Please let me know because now I'm freaking out. Www.howidothingsdiy.com
Also, definitely subscribe so you can monitor this fake activity. You probably should also go buy some some plans on my website just to be safe.
HEY TRAVIS. I HAVE NO NEED FOR A BABY SLED.
I SAW SOMEBODY USING A SMALL DEWALT JOBSITE TABLE SAW AND A SITE MADE SLED BIG ENOUGH TO CUT 4X8 SHEETS.
HOW DO I MAKE ONE OF THOSE? IT WAS A LONG TIME AGO AND DID NOT GET A GOOD LOOK AT IT.
Wow!!! That sled must be huge. Essentially, you would need to scale up the sled to fit whatever size you need to cut. So if you want to be able to rip 4' sheet, then your sled needs to be over 4' from front to back. But ripping 4x8 sheets with a sled seems unsafe to me. I'd rather just have a good outfeed table and a zero clearance insert.
I BELIRVE IT WAS A FULL 4X8 SHEET.SHEETS WERE CROSSCUT TO KITCHEN CABINET LENGTH THEN RIPPED.THE SLED MAY HAVE HAD SOME LEGS WTH WHEELS BECAUSE OF IT'S SIZE.I WAS TOO BUSY TO REALLY TAKE A GOOD LOOK AT IT. I AM NOT GOOD AT INVENTING. SO I WAS HOPING YOU COULD. THANKS.@@HowIDoThingsDIY
@BobHolster-om8rf Ahh, if you're building cabinets, I would consider a track saw. Take a look at this video. It really is the best way to cut down sheets. czcams.com/video/00wXEfpjs04/video.html
can you write in the comments column what tools and materials you use in the video in each chapter? 🥹🙏🏻
It looks like I have all the tools listed in the video description with links. I also have plans for a very reasonable price if you want to help support my channel (pasted in the link). Let me know if you need more information. Thanks! howidothingsdiy.com/plans/ols/products/simple-crosscut-sled-w-t-track-stop