Measuring air gap for your hydraulic throwout bearing
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- čas přidán 30. 09. 2017
- www.grannasracing.com/product...
**NOTE: ON THE FLAT FACE BEARING YOU ONLY WANT ABOUT 2.5MM OF AIR GAP**
This is the easiest way to set the proper air gap on your hydraulic bearing. I use this method on every t56 magnum car I build. This is using a QuickTime bellhousing along with a tilton hydraulic release bearing.
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Thank you for this, easy and straightforward
Thank you for adding clarity to this.
If you had the option between CSC or fork/external slave push style which would you choose?
Why do you not measure with bearing on?
will this hydralic throwout bearing fits on a single plate clutch?
Would this apply to a regular throwout bearing on a foxbody t5? I've converted it to hydraulic with an external slave, as it sits right now with clutch fork on, transmission installed, no slave on. I pushed the fork all the way back to towards the transmission..Ive got "about" 1/4--3/8 gap from the throwout bearing to the clutch springs. I have an adjustable pivot ball on the bellhousing, should I screw it out or in to get the throw out bearing close to the pressure plate spring?
Why does that bearing look backwards?
Do you take this measurement with the spring removed from the bearing and the bearing installed at its compressed position?
There is no spring in these aftermarket bearings. You measure fully compressed, where piston is at the zero position
Hey is there anyway to get in contact with you? I have a few questions
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You like that Tilton TOB? I have a hydramax and it keeps leaking and ruining my clutches
i've sold probably 2000 of them. very few issues, most of the issues happen when they get overextended over their max travel and then it will hurt the seal. i'd recommend replacing your seal and make sure your air gap is set to 3mm and if your pedal throw is very long, make sure you have a pedal stop in place to make sure it does not overextend the bearings max travel which i believe is .700"
@@grannasinfo6666 already did and sent it in to get rebuilt and he didn’t even rebuild it. Said it was fine
One line goes to the master cylinder, and the other?
its the bleed line, you dont want to bleed the line inside the transmission housing
Ok you measured but didn’t actually show how you would adjust the air gap
exactly what I was wondering. no explanation of what the air gap is for either.
@@2point2 so basically two thing…you’re adjusting the clutch pedal movement to where it doesn’t push the bearing too far and also adjusting the “air” gap to where you’re foot is off the clutch pedal and the throwout bearing can still spin freely. Not too much of a gap though, just enough to where the bearing is not rubbing against pressure plate teeth.
shims, under the bearing
The air gap would be adjusted by shimming the TOB that is mounted on the trans to move it closer towards the pressure plate fingers. This is assuming you need to make the airgap smaller. If you don't have any air gap at all or it's negative, this can't be fixed. Either new or rebuilt clutch I think.
this millimeter talk is not very American like