Just bought a VZ Acclaim yesterday $2200. 3 moths rego, and a dead straight original body. Just two tiny 5mm dents in the left front passenger door. Replaced rear discs and pads, front sway bar links and I will replace the prop shaft center bearing tomorrow. Engine has 300k but smooth and no no noises or other issues. Only issue I am not sure of is a leaking auto transmission, wet from the bell housing back across the pan. At this stage I will put some stop leak in it and see what happens.
I recently found myself in need of a cheap tow vehicle for my tinny and spent a fortnight looking at about a dozen of these vintage commodore utes & wagons in the VZ & VE model lines with these Alloytec V6's with a price range from $6K to mid-teens; mileage ranged from 115K km to around 200K (I didn't bother looking at anything over this mileage). Would have preferred a Ford with the bullet-proof Barra I6 (previously had a BA ute which unfortunately rusted away after a hard life) but the Fords are hard to find at the lower price range & lower K's as people hang onto them until they're well & truly clapped-out. Not only did the engine in every single one of these Holdens have alarming rattles, tics & knocks from the top-end but the majority also had evidence of milky sludge with a florescent greenish tinge on the underside of the oil filler-cap (many similar in appearance to the one in the video, and a couple a lot worse). This suggests that either the head gaskets are prone to leaking/blowing on these engines or that excessive condensation is building up in the crankcase due to shorter city trips (where the motor rarely sustains operating temperature for long, thus retaining moisture in the crankcase & combustion chamber and not evaporating it off) combined with the notoriously inadequate PVC valve design on these engines leading to poor crankcase ventilation. I had originally tried to find a VX or VY with the older-tec but bulletproof Buick 3800 Ecotec V6 but without any luck, as people are hanging onto these until they hit over 300K km because they are just so good and dependable. In the end I just gave up on the idea of a cheap vehicle and bit the bullet, dusted off my wallet and bought a one-owner 2017 VF wagon with the 3.0L V6, logbooks with full service history and 80K km on the clock for $20K. The owner evidently did his own in-between oil changes around 5 or 6K km between scheduled dealer servicing and it shows; the motor is whisper quiet (even on initial cold start-up) and runs as smooth as butter, and the underside of the oil filler-cap is pristine and bone dry.
Alloytec motors in the VZ were more economical than the Alloytec in the VE. Bummer about that left bank and cam chain breathing/carbon problems. The 15000 klm oil change interval was only meant to make the maintenance costs on paper lower. 10000klm oil changes are better.
Hi, I have a VE Statesman ( WM ?? i call it a VE ) anyway with the horrid V6 Alloytec Now this is a ex rental and hire car it has 620k on the clock and is wisper quiet - the secret is the owner told the servos to make sure they place 7k distance reminder on per oil change intervals and dont drive it hard Almost everyone who has seen the car thinks it is 60k on the clock and i ask them to have another look the only major fix was the auto died at 350 or 450k CZcams sound can distort a bit , it is hard to tell if it is a rattle or timing chain stretch as well Regards George
I once had a Ex police commodore. 1998 model. It was making a knock sound at 200,000 klms turned out to be spark plug lead.the commodore your driving. Has probably had the guts thrashed out of it. The one I had Had so much power. It could almost catch anything. But mine only had 50,000 klms when I brought it.
Now I'd be surprised if the bars in the boot are still there, the chip, the books. Very rare and I highly doubt many (ex police cars would be sold to public with their features. My brother got lucky and had police bars in the boot, the books but I've never seen a ex police with the original bars yet. His was a VP 5.0, with strut bars, boot bars, books but I'm sure he was one in a few that actually got them.
Sorry but id say that's the timein chain mate cold start will always be quieter when its warm it will expand making it louder gradually they also can skip teeth . Good ol alloychec.
It’s possible. But it’s still warm when I turn it off and back on? But it’s ok if it’s the chain, there is a place on the Gold Coast that replaces them for 1200 drive in drive out. I’ll try to de sludge it first and if it’s still there I’ll get the chains done
@@barnseysgarage1877 Could be the chain tensioner maxed-out and not holding full oil pressure at operating temps; re-starting the engine can sometimes act like a re-boot to the tensioner (had this issue on an old '80s Mercedes with a stretched timing chain).
I don’t know if you just buy these vehicles to flip them once finished. But I would: -Remove those ugly ass hubcaps -Lowering it slightly and replacing shocks -Scrap the Alloytec as they are a horrendously shocking motor and replacing with the factory LS motor they came with. Then you would have a 25k ex police vehicle.
He did then the motor started sounding like a diesel once warm and he wanted rid of! I Think BT1 was an option code on the plate before VY commodore. After that they put individual codes for the options? There was a 9C1 in there somewhere for police commodores as well
Ex cops cars can be good,depends if it was Frontline car or detectives,just look at the brake dust on the rims of a cop car,those hub caps are hideous,the pursuit steelies look much better.!Drop a flush through the motor,i use mineral turps,and idle for 15min,is that the local rubbish tip ?!
@@barnseysgarage1877 They drive Skodas in NZL,and some are plain white,the Holden cars are been phased out,but the dogs have VF Utes,or earlier still,and Highway patrol still have a few VFs...
G’day mate, once you’ve changed the oil to the correct weight, that might solve some of your ticking noises. Unfortunately some people just put the cheap or incorrect weight oil in. So a good thorough service- auto, diff and coolant (air bleed) should give a good baseline to work from. The milky oil cap - I noticed she’s very clean in that engine bay, maybe gernied while the cap was loose. Or the combination of new coolant and engine oil ?? Head gasket. Here’s hoping that she’s just had a hardcore clean. Looks to be an awesome project and these police cars have a massive following at the moment, so definitely a keeper or sell to start your next project, maybe purchase some ex cop accessories of eBay. For some finishing touches, looking forward to the upcoming videos, cheers mouse
Thanks Mate. Yes she's had a pressure wash in the engine. Yes old police cars are popular that's why I bought it! hopefully some profit eventually when I sell it.
Probably is milky 😂hence the reasons for oil change before sale oldest trick in the book do head gasket for safe measures n put thicker oil in its probably thin oil n heats up quick hence the ticking the oil probably thinning out n yep good idea for dump clean
The good old rattletec engine
Dont replace the oil guess what happens!!
This is a normal sound for most Commodores it's all good keep driving
Just send it ya recon?
When having a VZ it's important to do an Engine Flush before changing the oil it stop build up.
Just bought a VZ Acclaim yesterday $2200.
3 moths rego, and a dead straight original body. Just two tiny 5mm dents in the left front passenger door.
Replaced rear discs and pads, front sway bar links and I will replace the prop shaft center bearing tomorrow.
Engine has 300k but smooth and no no noises or other issues.
Only issue I am not sure of is a leaking auto transmission, wet from the bell housing back across the pan.
At this stage I will put some stop leak in it and see what happens.
I recently found myself in need of a cheap tow vehicle for my tinny and spent a fortnight looking at about a dozen of these vintage commodore utes & wagons in the VZ & VE model lines with these Alloytec V6's with a price range from $6K to mid-teens; mileage ranged from 115K km to around 200K (I didn't bother looking at anything over this mileage). Would have preferred a Ford with the bullet-proof Barra I6 (previously had a BA ute which unfortunately rusted away after a hard life) but the Fords are hard to find at the lower price range & lower K's as people hang onto them until they're well & truly clapped-out.
Not only did the engine in every single one of these Holdens have alarming rattles, tics & knocks from the top-end but the majority also had evidence of milky sludge with a florescent greenish tinge on the underside of the oil filler-cap (many similar in appearance to the one in the video, and a couple a lot worse). This suggests that either the head gaskets are prone to leaking/blowing on these engines or that excessive condensation is building up in the crankcase due to shorter city trips (where the motor rarely sustains operating temperature for long, thus retaining moisture in the crankcase & combustion chamber and not evaporating it off) combined with the notoriously inadequate PVC valve design on these engines leading to poor crankcase ventilation.
I had originally tried to find a VX or VY with the older-tec but bulletproof Buick 3800 Ecotec V6 but without any luck, as people are hanging onto these until they hit over 300K km because they are just so good and dependable. In the end I just gave up on the idea of a cheap vehicle and bit the bullet, dusted off my wallet and bought a one-owner 2017 VF wagon with the 3.0L V6, logbooks with full service history and 80K km on the clock for $20K. The owner evidently did his own in-between oil changes around 5 or 6K km between scheduled dealer servicing and it shows; the motor is whisper quiet (even on initial cold start-up) and runs as smooth as butter, and the underside of the oil filler-cap is pristine and bone dry.
Alloytec motors in the VZ were more economical than the Alloytec in the VE. Bummer about that left bank and cam chain breathing/carbon problems.
The 15000 klm oil change interval was only meant to make the maintenance costs on paper lower.
10000klm oil changes are better.
Yes I will open her up to have a look at the sludge…. I’d say they need oil changes more often but I think this one missed a few
Hi, I have a VE Statesman ( WM ?? i call it a VE ) anyway with the horrid V6 Alloytec
Now this is a ex rental and hire car it has 620k on the clock and is wisper quiet - the secret is the owner told the servos to make sure they place 7k distance reminder on per oil change intervals and dont drive it hard
Almost everyone who has seen the car thinks it is 60k on the clock and i ask them to have another look the only major fix was the auto died at 350 or 450k
CZcams sound can distort a bit , it is hard to tell if it is a rattle or timing chain stretch as well
Regards
George
Synthetic 100% oils are good for far longer than 10k kms
I once had a Ex police commodore.
1998 model. It was making a knock sound at 200,000 klms turned out to be spark plug lead.the commodore your driving. Has probably had the guts thrashed out of it. The one I had
Had so much power. It could almost catch anything. But mine only had 50,000 klms when I brought it.
Yes I'm sure she's had a hard life.. Although not to many kms for the age? it still has the original Pilkington front windscreen !
Now I'd be surprised if the bars in the boot are still there, the chip, the books. Very rare and I highly doubt many (ex police cars would be sold to public with their features. My brother got lucky and had police bars in the boot, the books but I've never seen a ex police with the original bars yet. His was a VP 5.0, with strut bars, boot bars, books but I'm sure he was one in a few that actually got them.
As soon as I read $1500 I thought for sure it'll be a rattler!
Lol 😂
Thats just condensate on the oil cap, nothing to worry about.
Great thanks for that 👍
I have a question. I own a 2004. How big is your car battery and how many amps? Can you help me
You have my deepest sympathy.
Bless You Sir
Sounfs like its skipped teeth, my ba falcon sounded like that when chain had skipped 2 teeth and pistons were hitting valves
Yeah but you turn it off and back on and it goes away 🤷♂️
Sorry but id say that's the timein chain mate cold start will always be quieter when its warm it will expand making it louder gradually they also can skip teeth . Good ol alloychec.
It’s possible. But it’s still warm when I turn it off and back on? But it’s ok if it’s the chain, there is a place on the Gold Coast that replaces them for 1200 drive in drive out. I’ll try to de sludge it first and if it’s still there I’ll get the chains done
@@barnseysgarage1877 Could be the chain tensioner maxed-out and not holding full oil pressure at operating temps; re-starting the engine can sometimes act like a re-boot to the tensioner (had this issue on an old '80s Mercedes with a stretched timing chain).
I don’t know if you just buy these vehicles to flip them once finished.
But I would:
-Remove those ugly ass hubcaps
-Lowering it slightly and replacing shocks
-Scrap the Alloytec as they are a horrendously shocking motor and replacing with the factory LS motor they came with.
Then you would have a 25k ex police vehicle.
Yeah but not genuine v8 I don’t think people will pay the money?
Nice
Thanks!
Nice for 1500, could have sworn he wanted 2500. Well done there again.
Why do people call them bt1, I could've sworn that code finished at vn?
He did then the motor started sounding like a diesel once warm and he wanted rid of! I Think BT1 was an option code on the plate before VY commodore. After that they put individual codes for the options? There was a 9C1 in there somewhere for police commodores as well
They stopped using BT1 near the end of the VS Model. Last of the VS in 1997 used the 9C1 prefix.
Thanks for the info ! So my vz has this code?
Coolant should be red.
Yes and the green is new.... hmmmm
give it couple of engine flush
Check your harmonic balancer bud
Yeah ? Would that make the ticking sounds? I’ll have a look thanks!
Ex cops cars can be good,depends if it was Frontline car or detectives,just look at the brake dust on the rims of a cop car,those hub caps are hideous,the pursuit steelies look much better.!Drop a flush through the motor,i use mineral turps,and idle for 15min,is that the local rubbish tip ?!
It’s white so I’m guessing just front line. Yes caps have got to go! Nah it’s my secret test track lol
@@barnseysgarage1877 They drive Skodas in NZL,and some are plain white,the Holden cars are been phased out,but the dogs have VF Utes,or earlier still,and Highway patrol still have a few VFs...
G’day mate, once you’ve changed the oil to the correct weight, that might solve some of your ticking noises. Unfortunately some people just put the cheap or incorrect weight oil in. So a good thorough service- auto, diff and coolant (air bleed) should give a good baseline to work from. The milky oil cap - I noticed she’s very clean in that engine bay, maybe gernied while the cap was loose. Or the combination of new coolant and engine oil ?? Head gasket. Here’s hoping that she’s just had a hardcore clean. Looks to be an awesome project and these police cars have a massive following at the moment, so definitely a keeper or sell to start your next project, maybe purchase some ex cop accessories of eBay. For some finishing touches, looking forward to the upcoming videos, cheers mouse
Thanks Mate. Yes she's had a pressure wash in the engine. Yes old police cars are popular that's why I bought it! hopefully some profit eventually when I sell it.
It’s had a hard life.
BURNOUT
Then go BOOM 🤣
Drifting
Waste of money
Thanks Man ! 🤣
😢 hate Aussie cars and I'm Aussie I drive 350hp VOLVO C30,
Ok !
This thing is junk, and people wonder why GMH folded.
$1500 cars are usually junk!
Buy a BMW of the same vintage and see how ya go, more expensive garbage
Any car you buy for $1500 is going to be junk. The fact police and taxi companies used commodores just shows how reliable they were
What you expect for 1.5 large...😕
Probably is milky 😂hence the reasons for oil change before sale oldest trick in the book do head gasket for safe measures n put thicker oil in its probably thin oil n heats up quick hence the ticking the oil probably thinning out n yep good idea for dump clean
no head gasket job! dump clean and sump off job!