Build Your Own Track Bar (Jeep Cherokee XJ)
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- How build a track bar for a front coil sprung front axle or a Jeep Cherokee XJ. Using Barnes 4WD 3/4 heim joints and 1 inch ID 1/4 wall DOM tubing. Check out Barnes 4WD for excellent builder parts and DIY fabrication parts. www.barnes4wd....
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DISCLAIMER: Due to factors out of the control of Muddy Beards 4X4, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Muddy Beards 4X4 assumes no liability or responsibility for property damages or injury incurred as a result of any information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Muddy Beards 4X4 recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and/or with tools seen in this video. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Muddy Beards 4X4. Be safe! This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, we receive a small commission. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!
I love that you aren't just buying things and putting things on your Jeep. This channel is awesome because you are finding diy solutions and actually fabrication them. It's the craftsmanship that actually got me into jeepin. Keep up the cool builds.
Thanks man appreciate it. That's what I love about this hobby as well
I like that you go the EXTRA MILE ON THE IMPORTANT STUFF. DEFINITELY BEFFY. LOOKS GREAT. Shane P.
Back in the day I have made with help from my friends a lot of parts for a different projects. Now they make it easy just buy the parts, kits, no need to be a mechanic or a fabricator just a part have to be a parts changer. Don't get me wrong I don't mind having a parts Bay for me these days give me more time to enjoy the off-roading Stanley if I could do it again. It is nice to see old school work being done. Keep it up.
Thanks brother
I just got done making a track bar for my 1 ton Cherokee. I also have a custom track bar mount I welded to the frame. I've seen lots of pictures of guys not putting those old track bar bolts in and their track bar mount will peel off the frame. Those bolts are important to keep the jeep together. I saw that was a problem and made a plate to weld on the bottom side of the frame and tying it into the front stiffener. Then I welded the track bar to that and put the old bolts back in.
I figured they looked important that's why I put them back in. I'm glad I did now. Thanks for the information.
I liked your breakdown on steering/suspension geometry. A lot of people just look at the bars being parallel but the position is really what’s important. I’ve seen a few of your vids but this one made me a subscriber. 👍
Right on man. Thank you
I'm doing my TJ soon after pricing all the 4 inch lift kits.im going to build all my own suspension arms and convert everything to hyme joints.good video man ✌️
Just found your channel, the CA arm build and then this one. Great view, straight and to the point with good info. Subbed.
Thanks brother we appreciate it👊🏻
this set up is nice cause u dont have to take anything apart to adjust it.
Your drag link is considerably longer than your track bar. Remember your high school trig: rise over run for slope.
Thanks for the video! Made it seem super simple!
Looks great that should hold up well
Good thing I seen this video I wasn't sure how to measure my alignment,not long ago I recently ripped the front panhard with the Heim joint still connected to the mount and all, baseball size hole in the frame and the piece that ripped out was still welded to the mount, my frame gave out there I guess, and I have almost the same looking top track bar mount and plated inboxed in the area with the mount, very similar-looking to the one you used kinda. But I just eyeballed it and kind of looks good to me but you know now I'm about to put a tape measure on my bump stock to the outside tire walls and see what this puppy's looking like! Appreciate it 👍
Very good job !! Looks awesome !! Should get many years out of your trackbar .
Thanks man
Nice. I always hated that stupid ball joint on the frame side of the track bar and I never could find a reasonable explanation why the fff is it there it is just a part which has tendency to fail and since the motion of track bar is just up and down it could be just a regular bushing. Now after I watched your video I am going to convert mine to a bushing instead of ball joint because ball joint there is just stupid and unreliable. Good job man .
Professional job
subtract what? ya lost me champ.. should the track be the same length and at the same angle? how about around the coil? LUV YA BRO
have you checked when you stuff that passenger side tire that it will clear the oil pan? Built a very similar track bar and bent a slight off set in it to clear
I cycled it and it seemed to clear. But offroad articulation always seems more extream then testing it out in the driveway.
shouldnt the panhard bar be parallel and the same size with the steering bar?
I was wondering what’s the purpose of a rear track bar ?
Where have you been lately
just asking. your track bar is shorter then your steering linkage from pivot to pivot. would that not take up your 1/2". the track bar being shorter would have a smaller curve or is it the other way around?
Have you had contact of the trackbar to the oil pan? Looks kind of close sitting at ride height.
Nevermind, I see you replied to a similar question already. Thanks!
I was going to say the same thing that is wj axel
How were you able to clear the pumpkin with a straight track bar at full bump? moved it forward of stock location?
It is moved forward about 2 inches. But never had issues with it contacting anything
very good
Thanks
How do you adjust the trac bar with the vehicle weight on it, if the bar doesn’t have a but welded to it to put a wrench on?
Nice job on the build.
The weld in bungs have a spot to put a wrench on it
Muddy Beards 4X4 thanks. I only saw lock nuts on the bungs.
i have never even built a track bar but im getting ready to and the way you measured that dont work cuz the bars r different length
Hola como se llama lo que colocas en la punta ?
Will that hit your oil pan just asking thank you.
Does not hit at all. Had this thing flexed every which direction with no clearance issues
That's good I run a aftermarket track bar and thought about building my own. Thank you.
Would it be weird if I said that track bar looks sexy? Cuz it does. Just sayin...
🤩 haha
i wouldnt say weird exactly
but you didnt say
no homo
so...... 🤨
you said you moved your axle forward 2 in did you move the frame side spring mount
if so did you drill out spot welds and chissle it off n weld it back on or
i ask cause im doing a 8.8 rear swap on a zj and i now need to move my reat spring mounts back 😠 which is good but
one of those darn it i wasnt planing on that and i fully welded in my axle brackets already
i test fit links with them tacked but didnt install of notice spring perches
No I did not move the coil mount. My spring has a slight bend in it. On the unibody vehicles the best solution I think is to have offset axle side spring perches.
@@MuddyBeards4X4
ok thanks
so i should relocate the spring perch
on the axle side forward 👍 so its still straight down and axle now is further back
ok thanks
man thats going to suck i really am kicking myself in butt for fully welding those on oh well nothin a few grinding wheels wont fix
Ya man that's what I would do is move the axle side spring perch
What paint was used to spray on the bar? Has a matte look to it which is what I want.
I think it was just rustoleum flat black
Muddy Beards 4X4 - I’ll have to check it out. Thank you!
Hey Muddy. I built a similar setup on my TJ D44 accept I put small bend in it near the pumpkin (thinking that might be a mistake). Just curious, have you had any issues with the straight track bar colliding with your oil pan or pumpkin when articulating? Thanks!
Nope, so far no clearance issues.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 Thanks for the info! BTW, great content...keep up the good work.
Thanks man appreciate it
Nice welds. What kind of welder?
Thanks man. It's a hobart 190. Pretty basic machine, but does the job
Quick questions:
In your opinion is round tube stronger the square?
I’m thinking of making my own track bar, rear lower control arms,
Subframe connectors, and strut brace using 1.5 x 1.20 mild steel
tubing. In this set up under or over kill? I think round is best and strong enough for what I’m doing.
I have never used square tube. But I can tell you there is nothing wrong with using round tube
Hello my friend i have done all my suspension but know all the time i go off roading my steering get off center all the time any idea what it can be
Sounds sketchy bro, better figure it out. Look for frame damage near the top track bar / panhard mount. If it cracks at that mount, eventually starts to peel out kind of like when you open a soda can with the lightest touch. If that happens that's when your steering going to become off center. If not recognized before to late or you now put yourself in a extremely dangerous situation that you should consider thinking about. What are you talkin about, what kind of vehicle..
@@robbierobbie7684 thanks will check
Your steering wheel is off center or your axle?
@@MuddyBeards4X4 thanks how i fix that
Ok, now I'm confused about the whole pipe/tube thing again. You are using 1 inch ID (implying pipe, since it's ID) 1/4 inch wall (implying tubing, because pipe wall thickness is specified by schedule) "tubing." If it was tubing, I thought it's size would be specified by the outside diameter. So where am I getting it wrong? If you wouldn't mind I'd appreciate you schooling me on this.
As far as I know you are right on. Usually tube is specified by outside diameter because its structural verse pipe which carries a liquid. However dom will usually carry both designations of od and Id. But the wall thickness is actually .250 which is 1/4 inch so that's why I was calling it 1/4 wall.
OOOK so we're talking about "DOM" tubing here and that's the difference. I get it now, thanks!
If u lift ur heep with oem steering and track bar, it will stay parrarel.
Show the axle at work please .
Heim joints wear out fast.
Cheap ones do, but, I havent had any issues at all with the Barnes 4WD heims
Do you have WJ knuckles?I noticed you have crossover steering....
Yes sir I do
What year wj knuckles did you use I have an 01
Any wj will work. I believe 99-03
Where did you get the info on measuring for parallel?
I dont remember lol. I think it's just one of the old timers tricks to get close
@@MuddyBeards4X4 it's incorrect.
Ugh how so? The arc in which the components move is what matters. Obviously this is not perfect because of length. Typically the track bar is shorter thus will move in an arc quicker. But this measurement Is a perfect starting point and has served me well. I have zero bump steer....
your probably gonna have alot of bump steer. looks way off.
Bro why your eyes look like you got a tiktok filter? You trying to turn us?
Beefy
The word beefy is extremely overused with this guy.