Thanks Marion! I've changed both fuel filters 2 times, and still learned something from these last two fuel filter video's you just put out! Always looking for an easier more efficient way to work on these trucks. Also, I made your oil filter tool and used it for the first time a couple weeks ago when I changed the oil. MARVELOUS!!!! Keep up the good work Sir!
Thanks Marion! I always cringe at 2 points in the process on my truck, un-screwing the lid and pressing the start button. I have not used the pump jumper method yet but will next time, I usually do 4-5 on/off cycles before cranking. Sometimes it starts right up sometimes has a long crank. I have a 19 and it still has the factory fuel pump, on the waiting list for the replacement. Thanks for making these videos!
Thanks for making these videos. The jump start of fuel pump has helped me twice already in two years. Also good to know this stuff since I have same truck. Thanks for videos and keep it up!
Another great video fella. Many people switch out the entire plastic fuel filter setup with a unit that utilizes a spinoff CAT filter or whatever filter but most seem to overlook the fact that these spin off filter could rust if you get water in your tank/fuel system and then that rust goes to town on your fuel system. Don't have to worry about these plastic OEM fuel filter systems rusting from any water it may have captured..
I know everyone puts the oring down on the canister but there is an oring groove in the cap. The oring below the threads is useless and why they sometimes leak and then are over tightened. I'm new at owning a cummins ram. My friends is a certified cummins mechanic and he totally agrees with me on this subject. Also I can see no reason to empty the canister, just let enough fuel out to get it below the top of the canister which reduces the fuel pressure so the top can be removed easier. I just bought my 2016 and the filter assy was leaking and alas I cracked the top taking it off because it was way overtightened by the previous owner/repair center in their attempt to stop the leak. It went back together without a hitch and 2 cycles of the switch and it fired right up without any delay. I may get some flack for my opinion but I am confident in my reasoning .
I would suggest running the pump for about 30 seconds after closing the housing drain valve to fill the front filter housing with fuel. The CP3 pump can cope with the momentary absence of fuel. I believe that is the cause of the majority of CP4 failures (failure to ensure filters are purged of air). I had to share this comment due to the long crank after the change.
It’s interesting that you noticed that also. That long crank was unintentional as the damn thing kept cranking even after letting off the switch. I’ve heard of it happening but now had it happen. I’ll do exactly what you advised next time.
@Marion Blair I have been "sensitive" to the long crank ever since the '03 model year. The earlier trucks with VE, P7100, VP44 all started very quickly. The '03 and newer always feel (to me) to crank forever. But when one is longer than forever it makes me think...
@@MarionBlair Appreciate your videos and have learned a lot from them, thank you! I believe the long crank comes from the "tip start" feature. I believe the way it works is once the key is turned to the start position, the "tip start" feature will crank and try and start the engine for a full cycle even if the key is disengaged. We probably don't notice this feature day to day as most time we turn the key till the engine starts. At fuel filter change time we're hypersensitive and try and cancel the start as soon as it evident it's not going to start. The first time I changed my own fuel filter my 2012 I start cycled the key to the "on" position 4 times then all the way to start. I think it took three trys to get the engine to start. At the second filter change, I cycled to "on" position 10 times then all the way to start and truck fired right up. The exact number of cycles required is probably somewhere between 6-10. I'll stick with 10 for now.
You made that look easy. I have tried 3 times to get my cap off without success. I have the exact socket and extensions and end up giving up and taking it to a mechanic. I'm thinking of trying an impact driver next time just to get it started.
Steady pressure not an impact is what is required for this plastic. I had this done at a Ram dealer and they twisted the cap and it had to be replaced. I have done it since and have had no problems. This is on a '14 3500, 130k miles.
I always get fresh diesel and soak the filter in fresh diesel. Then pop it in. And prime the filter with just hitting the ignition 8 times on and off till solid fuel comes out the bottom. Then close the peacock valve and then hit the ignition 5 more times to be sure the canister is full before cranking it over
What I do is replace the rear filter first. Prime the system and crank the truck. Let it run a couple minutes. Then replace the front filter. Prime the system again and it cranks right up. First time I did it I replaced both filters and it was much harder to get the system primed.
some people have had problems resetting the oil and fuel filter due reminders....Tip...when it says confirm...do not hold the button...quick press only.
I always have a problem putting the front filter in. I've never been able to get the filter to set flush with the top of the canister. I feel like if i push it in more, I'll break it. When i take the old filter out, it's flush with the canister. Im just not sure if im placing it in the canister the right way.
I have a RAM 3500 and I think the hardest part is explaining to people how to catch the diesel fuel from the filters. I wound up using a piece of 3/4 fuel line that I slip over the hose in the front and hold up to the filter in the rear and I run it into a 1 gal gas can. I let it set for a bit then pull a sample from the bottom and check for water. if no water i dump back into my fuel tank... Between the two filters I'd say it's almost a half of gallon of diesel fuel. I've found no real way to "dispose" the diesel of it properly.... I *hate* just pouring it on the ground and I don't really have a way to "burn" it in a fire.
I do the same thing, just pour the diesel back into the tank, unless you see obvious debris or water. At that point it is used for weed abatement, in the cracks of the driveway.
I would be perfectly comfortable returning fuel drained from the front filter to the tank as that has been through the rear filter. The fuel drained from the rear I retain for use as parts-cleaner.
What happens if I do exactly what you did but the pump is not filling up the front fuel filter housing. Does that mean I need to replace the Fuel Pump (CP3) or do I just replace the Fuel Control Actuator. I'm asking because I did a full fuel filter change front and back but the truck cranks but no start ... I try to bleed the fuel with the key circling but the filter housing in the front will not fill with fuel but the back one does. Just need to see if bleeding it this way will help me incase I have a lot of air in the system.
Surprised you're still using the OEM filter cap. What a terrible item supplied with these rams. Suggest your viewers replace this cap with an aluminum replacement, found on amazon and other outlets.
I used a clear tube on the end of drains to make execution and cleanup easier for me. Did you do both at same time? The reset of fuel filter light is a bit different too! Thanks for your time sir
I have a question about that "power probe " you used. Does it have alligator clips that go to both the Positive and Negative terminals of the battery? Or, just the Positive terminal?
This is not exactly the same but it's cheap ha. www.amazon.com/Component-Activation-Electrical-Continuity-Protection/dp/B094PZMBXY/ref=asc_df_B094PZMBXY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=509509268384&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2019549942173420410&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025237&hvtargid=pla-1365229480511&psc=1
I've always cycled the ignition 3x after I change the fuel filter. Fires right up after that. Do you not change the rear water separator at the same time?
What are your thoughts on people doing CAT fuel filter conversions? The CAT filters are cheaper and probably better than the Mopar filters, but one big draw back I've seen is that there's no way to drain off a front CAT filter if the conversion is done. It's just your typical screw on filter that you'd have to install from underneath the truck. That to me is more challenging than the OEM filter is to replace.
I won't do it. Thd Cat filter removes the front water-in-fuel sensor. Additionally, IMHO, if finer than 3 micron filtration was necessary, Cummins Filtration would filter to that level. Your mileage may vary.
@Arthur Sloate I am not sure you and I are "on the same page"... I don't think the goal of the OP is to delete, I believe he wants to install a retrofit kit. If my understanding is correct, I will stand by my concern over WIF loss at the underhood filter. OP, please clarify?
@@walterk1221 Retrofit requires removing the old filter and its plastic bowl. That is where the WIF is located. So you need a new place for it. Some of the conversions accommodate this, some don't.
Marion, you can get a billet aluminum cover off geno’s. I got it a couple years ago and works good!
Thanks Marion! I've changed both fuel filters 2 times, and still learned something from these last two fuel filter video's you just put out! Always looking for an easier more efficient way to work on these trucks. Also, I made your oil filter tool and used it for the first time a couple weeks ago when I changed the oil. MARVELOUS!!!! Keep up the good work Sir!
Thanks Marion! I always cringe at 2 points in the process on my truck, un-screwing the lid and pressing the start button. I have not used the pump jumper method yet but will next time, I usually do 4-5 on/off cycles before cranking. Sometimes it starts right up sometimes has a long crank. I have a 19 and it still has the factory fuel pump, on the waiting list for the replacement. Thanks for making these videos!
Thanks Marion for the tips you share !!! Always learning something here !!!
Thanks for making these videos. The jump start of fuel pump has helped me twice already in two years. Also good to know this stuff since I have same truck. Thanks for videos and keep it up!
Another great video fella. Many people switch out the entire plastic fuel filter setup with a unit that utilizes a spinoff CAT filter or whatever filter but most seem to overlook the fact that these spin off filter could rust if you get water in your tank/fuel system and then that rust goes to town on your fuel system. Don't have to worry about these plastic OEM fuel filter systems rusting from any water it may have captured..
I know everyone puts the oring down on the canister but there is an oring groove in the cap. The oring below the threads is useless and why they sometimes leak and then are over tightened. I'm new at owning a cummins ram. My friends is a certified cummins mechanic and he totally agrees with me on this subject. Also I can see no reason to empty the canister, just let enough fuel out to get it below the top of the canister which reduces the fuel pressure so the top can be removed easier. I just bought my 2016 and the filter assy was leaking and alas I cracked the top taking it off because it was way overtightened by the previous owner/repair center in their attempt to stop the leak. It went back together without a hitch and 2 cycles of the switch and it fired right up without any delay. I may get some flack for my opinion but I am confident in my reasoning .
Good tip!
You’ve helped me learn a lot. Just wanted to say, thank you sir.
I’ve learned putting grease on the threads. Keeps the cap from coming off hard.
I would suggest running the pump for about 30 seconds after closing the housing drain valve to fill the front filter housing with fuel. The CP3 pump can cope with the momentary absence of fuel. I believe that is the cause of the majority of CP4 failures (failure to ensure filters are purged of air). I had to share this comment due to the long crank after the change.
Thanks for that. I have been dwelling on that exact thing for a while.
It’s interesting that you noticed that also. That long crank was unintentional as the damn thing kept cranking even after letting off the switch. I’ve heard of it happening but now had it happen. I’ll do exactly what you advised next time.
@Marion Blair I have been "sensitive" to the long crank ever since the '03 model year. The earlier trucks with VE, P7100, VP44 all started very quickly. The '03 and newer always feel (to me) to crank forever. But when one is longer than forever it makes me think...
@@MarionBlair Appreciate your videos and have learned a lot from them, thank you! I believe the long crank comes from the "tip start" feature. I believe the way it works is once the key is turned to the start position, the "tip start" feature will crank and try and start the engine for a full cycle even if the key is disengaged. We probably don't notice this feature day to day as most time we turn the key till the engine starts. At fuel filter change time we're hypersensitive and try and cancel the start as soon as it evident it's not going to start. The first time I changed my own fuel filter my 2012 I start cycled the key to the "on" position 4 times then all the way to start. I think it took three trys to get the engine to start. At the second filter change, I cycled to "on" position 10 times then all the way to start and truck fired right up. The exact number of cycles required is probably somewhere between 6-10. I'll stick with 10 for now.
Thanks ! Tried that it works just like u said
You made that look easy. I have tried 3 times to get my cap off without success. I have the exact socket and extensions and end up giving up and taking it to a mechanic. I'm thinking of trying an impact driver next time just to get it started.
Steady pressure. I use a 1/2” drive with a 12-18” ratchet. I switched out the plastic cap for a machined aluminum after the 1st change.
I would not use an impact, find a piece of pipe to slide over your ratchet to give you more leverage if you do not have a long breaker bar.
Steady pressure not an impact is what is required for this plastic. I had this done at a Ram dealer and they twisted the cap and it had to be replaced. I have done it since and have had no problems. This is on a '14 3500, 130k miles.
I always get fresh diesel and soak the filter in fresh diesel. Then pop it in. And prime the filter with just hitting the ignition 8 times on and off till solid fuel comes out the bottom. Then close the peacock valve and then hit the ignition 5 more times to be sure the canister is full before cranking it over
What I do is replace the rear filter first. Prime the system and crank the truck. Let it run a couple minutes. Then replace the front filter. Prime the system again and it cranks right up. First time I did it I replaced both filters and it was much harder to get the system primed.
some people have had problems resetting the oil and fuel filter due reminders....Tip...when it says confirm...do not hold the button...quick press only.
I always have a problem putting the front filter in. I've never been able to get the filter to set flush with the top of the canister. I feel like if i push it in more, I'll break it. When i take the old filter out, it's flush with the canister. Im just not sure if im placing it in the canister the right way.
What size is the hose that you use from the Pitcock down?
Marion where did you buy that power probe?
I have a RAM 3500 and I think the hardest part is explaining to people how to catch the diesel fuel from the filters. I wound up using a piece of 3/4 fuel line that I slip over the hose in the front and hold up to the filter in the rear and I run it into a 1 gal gas can. I let it set for a bit then pull a sample from the bottom and check for water. if no water i dump back into my fuel tank... Between the two filters I'd say it's almost a half of gallon of diesel fuel. I've found no real way to "dispose" the diesel of it properly.... I *hate* just pouring it on the ground and I don't really have a way to "burn" it in a fire.
I do the same thing, just pour the diesel back into the tank, unless you see obvious debris or water. At that point it is used for weed abatement, in the cracks of the driveway.
I would be perfectly comfortable returning fuel drained from the front filter to the tank as that has been through the rear filter. The fuel drained from the rear I retain for use as parts-cleaner.
Just add it to, and dispose with, your used oil...
What happens if I do exactly what you did but the pump is not filling up the front fuel filter housing. Does that mean I need to replace the Fuel Pump (CP3) or do I just replace the Fuel Control Actuator.
I'm asking because I did a full fuel filter change front and back but the truck cranks but no start ... I try to bleed the fuel with the key circling but the filter housing in the front will not fill with fuel but the back one does.
Just need to see if bleeding it this way will help me incase I have a lot of air in the system.
Do you recommend changing both fuel filters at the same time?
Yes, I do.
What size/ type of hose do you use for your permanent draining/ purging setup?
1/2” ID 5/8” OD. Install it on the petcock drain with a small hose clamp otherwise it’ll fall off.
Surprised you're still using the OEM filter cap. What a terrible item supplied with these rams. Suggest your viewers replace this cap with an aluminum replacement, found on amazon and other outlets.
I used a clear tube on the end of drains to make execution and cleanup easier for me. Did you do both at same time? The reset of fuel filter light is a bit different too! Thanks for your time sir
Yes I did
Another informative video. I have the “dumb” dash. What percentage should I go to before changing. I currently have 26% left.
V/r
You can go to 0%. It pretty conservative unless you get some bad diesel
Do they sell the battery jumper at stores? Or did you make that?
1 1/18 works fine
No, do not use a 1 1/8" socket. You got lucky if it worked. It most likely will not work again.
I have a question about that "power probe " you used.
Does it have alligator clips that go to both the Positive and Negative terminals of the battery?
Or, just the Positive terminal?
Positive negative
Yes as Walter said.
Can you provide the link for the power probe you’re using? Thanks!
This is not exactly the same but it's cheap ha. www.amazon.com/Component-Activation-Electrical-Continuity-Protection/dp/B094PZMBXY/ref=asc_df_B094PZMBXY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=509509268384&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2019549942173420410&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025237&hvtargid=pla-1365229480511&psc=1
I've always cycled the ignition 3x after I change the fuel filter. Fires right up after that.
Do you not change the rear water separator at the same time?
Yes, do both then purge.
Thank you
Where did you get the machined aluminum cap u stated u switched to after ur first change
That wasn’t me I’m still dealing with the plastic
What are your thoughts on people doing CAT fuel filter conversions? The CAT filters are cheaper and probably better than the Mopar filters, but one big draw back I've seen is that there's no way to drain off a front CAT filter if the conversion is done. It's just your typical screw on filter that you'd have to install from underneath the truck. That to me is more challenging than the OEM filter is to replace.
I won't do it. Thd Cat filter removes the front water-in-fuel sensor. Additionally, IMHO, if finer than 3 micron filtration was necessary, Cummins Filtration would filter to that level. Your mileage may vary.
@@walterk1221 The Fleece Delete Block allows the retention of the WIF.
@@AdorableDeplorable1 really? Then I retract my objection.
@Arthur Sloate I am not sure you and I are "on the same page"... I don't think the goal of the OP is to delete, I believe he wants to install a retrofit kit. If my understanding is correct, I will stand by my concern over WIF loss at the underhood filter.
OP, please clarify?
@@walterk1221 Retrofit requires removing the old filter and its plastic bowl. That is where the WIF is located. So you need a new place for it. Some of the conversions accommodate this, some don't.
Where did you get your power probe? Thanks
Powerprobe is available from Amazon
Yes....Same Question ??
@@bayonne Amazon