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How To Prime your Engine Oil and Fuel System for INSTANT PRESSURE!
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- čas přidán 9. 04. 2021
- In this video we show and discuss how to prime your oil and fuel pressure system in your engine after a rebuild or long term storage. Thanks for watching. AdeptApe@yahoo.com on PayPal for donations.
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Ahuh. I understand your sentiment. I absolutely LOVED having my engine start immediately after service/rebuild or whatever w/o cranking endlessly. Sort of a mechanic's pride and gloat. Cuz, let's be real, fellow mechanics in the shop know what you've been doing this past week and can hear what you're doing to get the thing running. Very distinct pleasure in a 2 second crank and run. Lol. But, is true.
I definitely want you to do the overhaul on my truck when the time comes. Your attention to detail and class act professionalism and knowledge is second to none and that's exactly the type of technician I want working on my engine. Our local shop of 27 years of Cat expertise just shut their doors for good.. and they were just like you. We don't have anybody else like that around and I'm genuinely concerned. I have no problem bringing my truck across this country to find the same kind of service! Awesome work Josh, keep it up. Maybe I'll be able to have you work on my stuff in the future. ✊🏼
This is what you do when you truly care about doing a good job. Thanks.
Love this video. Especially when Josh is replaced by “insane cat guy”.
Thank you Larry.
Agreed!
The bigger CATs use an electric pre-lube oil pump that primes the oil system before every startup. If you start a big CAT loader like a 994 you can hear the pump whining before the engine fires. My brother drove a Kenworth C501 with a Cummins QSK19 and that had a pre-lube pump as well. Great idea if you ask me because I’m sure they’d save on engine wear even with modern oils. That fuel line vacuum idea is great, I just installed new injectors in my 3408 and it took ages to fire with empty fuel lines.
all the train company trucks i have worked on that were older had this type of system installed, but they have gotten away from it
I have a 1LW, 2WS, 6TS, 2 6NZ, MBN and the SDP
Any problem I ever have with any series first place I look is on this channel. Keep up the awesome work as a truck fleet owner I appreciate you taking your time to make these videos, your helping more people than you know! Good job!
I’ve got a BXS and it’s the same for me, he’s saved me a ton of time and money, you can’t hardly find someone to work on a truck who cares. I owe this guy.
Nice job Josh always nice to watch how you do such a detailed job
There are pre-oiler kits available from the engine performance catalogs and shops. You can also use a pressure pot from a spray paint rig that uses the large pot connected by hoses. Class act doing the pre-oiling and fuel bleeding.
Outstanding ideas & care to do excellent work. The truly great part is that the techniques can be applied to any fuel injected engines, even automotive gasoline jobbies. The oil part can even be used on carburated engines. Thanks
Great idea on using the oil gun for pre lube. Will have to use that tomorrow.
I have just about finished a complete overhaul on a 4 Cyl Yanmar diesel and have been dreading all of the cranking to prime and bleed the fuel system. I will definitely try out this technique. Thank you sir.
I should have realized this only works on common rail systems. With the mechanical injectors on the Yanmar I still ended up having to evacuate the air from the lines the “old fashioned” way.
Very good my friend, that shows how much you care about what you do, very important what you just show about oil pressure, not all the mechanics including me can do on the field, thanks for shearing your knowledge
I love the solvent can method. Definitely have to do that.
Knipex in the tool bag since 1998 just purchased my last set. I use them in pipefitting. Thanks for the content of your channel.
Watching you videos reminds me of working with senior techs when I started out.
Great video. This is most crucial when starting an engine especially after a rebuild. Most mechanics just crank the engine.
Prime the oil and fuel system is critical.
Brilliant as always Josh thanks for sharing your knowledge 🦘🇦🇺👍 stay safe
Great idea, I'll have to try this on my next Detroit build.:)
I have actually done this on a 6-71 that I put all new fuel lines and filters on the truck. I pulled a vacuum on the return port coming off the head after the restrictor. Truck started like the engine in the video, except with the ultra cool 2 stroke Detroit noise!!! BTW, I love your Super Duty, have followed the build on facebook!
@@75LS1Vega Thanks very nice.:) I normally use an old fuel pump to prime the fuel system. I'll try the same fuel pump, but filter it for the oil and see if that works.:)
@@75LS1Vega Ah I remember your channel now.:) I used to watch that video you have of the 6V53 in the old Ford plowing snow. I must have watched that video a 100 times.:) Very nice indeed.:)
@@detroitgarage9430 truck still
Plows every winter. It is mildly amusing that two dyed in the wool 2 stroke Detroit guys are watching a channel dedicated to Cat engines!!
@@75LS1Vega I do love the Cats as well.:)
Thank you for showing on how to pre prime a newly rebuild on oil pressure and fuel
Thank you
Get an old fire extinguisher and set it up to pressurize the oil for the shops that don't have an oil delivery system
Great video!!! man I needed this video last year when I did my first inframe. Now I know how to prime It the correct way. 👍
I live in KY here use to be our cat dealer was called whayne supply it's closed now. All our cat equipment was for stripping coal now it's about gone I'm a cat fan allways will be to thanks for everything you put out .
Thanks for showing telling,I did not know about the priming oil . Thanks again my old 1989CAT well like that oil priming before I start it my old 3406B up thanks again see ya next time see ya bye.
another great cat video. preserve all cats. I like the idea of using the brake bleeder to prime the fuel system
Any adept ape vid is interesting 😎
Thank you.
Excellent advice!! That’s what makes a true professional stand out!
Great video. I rigged up a pressure filler from Motive with adapters for the engines I work on. The ones that have timing chains seem to benefit the most since they won't rattle like hell on start up. But priming other engines seems to help pump up the lifters some and they are quiet on start up. Will have to try the vacuum bleeder trick on diesel fuel systems next time.
Love the laughing goat. And I need one of those air powered vacuum gizmos from Snap On for sure.
Good job!
I have an apparatus consisting of a medium air brake tank, a final filter and air regulator plumbed into the block via a #4 hose. I use it to also find pressure leaks internally. Real handy.
That is a good idea.
Gold Mine of Knowledge. Thanks ! 🙂👍
GREAT way to prime the fuel and oil system.
Another great video I hope all the cat techs are watching you 😀 thanks again
Very good info. Will use when helping out the mechanic at the garage
Those coveralls are mint.
Great job and I enjoyed all your videos.
Got a Mack engine i wish this would work on
Good video i learned something new i appreciate you sharing your knowledge .
ha! Back in my day, I'd loosen all lines and pressurize the fuel tank via a rag and an air nozzle blowing into tank. One connection at a time, fuel would leak out...close the connections up the line one at a time an voila...a 'purged' fuel system...only takes a little pressure to do that and nah, you won't 'blow up' the tank unless you are an idiot. A little pressure difference is all it takes. Yea, this was back in the day of mechanical fuel pumps when you'd burn out a starter motor priming the system. Is that still true today?
Yes did the same 👍
I have a valve stem cut from an inner tube that I clamp onto my filler neck to prime my Detroit Diesel 3-53 in my loader. I even have a ball valve with clear tubing outlet on my fuel filter housing so I can see when the bubbles stop. When you do this to a Detroit 2-cycle you’re filling the cylinder head passages where the mechanical unit injectors are. That motor will fire right up every time using this method.
Perfect tip. Those Greco pumps are nice too. Good to see you’re doing well in Idaho. :)
Hey Jake, hope things are going well in Vegas and Tim is treating you right.
@@AdeptApe yeah he is we just finish a c13 build from a c11 and he was able to get our c11 ecm reprogrammed for a c13 with the correct tirbos and injectors. To be honest I’m glad it’s done tho lol. The oil base housing failed ate the crank out of the old c11 quick fast and in a hurry. Lol whoops 😬
All my years I never thought of using a break blead to purge air in the fuel system cool
very nice job .tidy and neat you are really doing a clean job wish you more success in your job
Used to prime the oil system on all SB chevy, ford, dodge. All that is required is a drill motor and the proper tool.
GREAT JOB AND EXPLANATION, YOU ARE A PRO 😁😁😁🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Gave me a Idea for one of the trucks at my army job
62bravo? Or whatever they changed it too?
@@mikeznel6048 yeah now a 91B got a lhs that won't keep a prime
This works do well on many systems
Mityvac on the return is the procedure Paccar outlines for the MX. I’ve always thought of trying it on other engines. I don’t trust bulk oil going into the main rifle unfiltered though.
That is a good point with the oil into the main gallery, but on a rebuild those journals are dry, our oil dispensers are filtered from the tanks though so it should be good.
@@AdeptApe 18/15, good enough right?
Can you advise the fitting size needed for the brake/fuel bleeder for cat c15? Great video and thank you.
Lost fuel prime in my 04 motorhome with 3126. One filter,no pump. Can I cut the fuel line from the tank but before the filter and hopefully get fuel flowing again??? And would I damage other components by doing so? Absolutely love your vids, you are a great mechanic AND you describe all your repairs like a Professor. Thx
Brilliant technique. Have you ever built or installed a pre-oiling system for use once engine is in operation? Am thinking of this for generators and other equipment that is seldom used.
Most of the big standby generators I've delt with have pre-oiler pumps built in. Typically they start up immediately upon loss of main line power. And run for a few seconds before the engine starts cranking. This system would be great install on any of the smaller generator systems because it would DEFINITELY extend the life of the engine! Easy to install, pull the oil drain plug and install a tee. Run a short line to a small oil pump then thru a check valve, then tee into the oil pressure indicator line. If you are manually starting the generator, a push button for the prelube pump will work. If your standby system starts up automatically, you can power the prelube pump from the starter, just keep the prelube pump below the oil level in the pan. This will give the prelube a few seconds of head start before the engine oil pump would build pressure. This would be much easier than designing a delay system to start the pump 3 to 5 seconds before energizing the start system.
I like it when people Tahoe the effort to do things properly nice video .. question c18 blowing off the oil fill cap is that normal assuming all the filters have been change including that oil separator thing
That is not very normal, do you have high blowby? It sounds like you do the. I recommend getting the blowby measured.
That's a lot of crankcase pressure. Agreed that a blowby test is in order, provided that your draft outlet is clear. Even if your separator is fresh, a blocked outlet will still build pressure. I've seen it numerous times when belly pans pack full and block the draft. Not applicable to on-road trucks, but then again neither is a C18 generally
Ive done the same thing faster on vw tdi with bosch rotary pump used a 7.3L late model lift pump with some jumper wires literally took 30 seconds, i would suggest coming up with something similar
Love your method, those vacuum bleeders are great for a number of things besides bleeding brakes. 😉
Pre filling fuel filters...
I did not have a problem with doing that per se; the problem on the boats that I worked on was that people would use the easiest point to get fuel, which was usually a tank's stripping valve, which was where the dirtiest fuel was available! We would add a fuel tap downstream from the primary filters, and train our guys to fill the dirty side of the filter. Deere was great with their filters, as they came with a funnel that would only allow you to fill from the dirty side.
The solution might be a change to a rotary prime pump with hex head for drill attachment. Plus, A rotary pump would have seals lasting longer. Sounds like a product.
can you use this method if engine runs out of fuel on the highway,
thank you for this video
Knipex is the best. Pliers. My bosd usedcto say WHERE ARE YOUR PLIERS!!! now ive alwas had them and in my own business iam naked without them. When i dont exactly know where they are i become very disoriented. When i see them im so relieved.
Thank you for another great video
Good morning idol thanks for sharing this video keep safe and God bless you
I love how you take time to do this i have a c15 and i world like for you to do it only have close to 90k on it never had to open it but it is getting close to the 1mill point so 🤷 y not
Awesome tip! Thanks
Great vid brother!!
Great information!
Brilliant!
Brilliant! Smart Ape!!! thanks!
Love your videos
Just finishing c-12 where would you hook up brake vac . Withe fuel manifold on side unlike c-15 with return from back of head ?? Thanks in advance
Nice job sir !
Thanks for sharing. 👍👍
Right on 😃😃😃 Thanks
Great info!
Great video!
Does this priming technique work when the fuel filters are installed dry?
Is this what you have to do if your run out of fuel on the road as well?
Yes. Take notes.
No. First put fuel in the tank (like you should have done before you ran out of fuel).
Second, unscrew the primer pump and pull it up. Then spray the shaft with lubricant ( I use WD 40 because it is just inside the door). The lube helps 'cause your going to pump A LOT. Loosen the bleed screw on the top of the secondary filter housing. This makes it easier to pump because you're not working against the pressure regulator. Then pump until you feel like your arm is going to fall off. When you get fuel coming out of the bleed screw tighten it up, then pump some more until you feel the pump getting harder. Lock it down, THEN start the engine. Works every time and with the lubrication your hand pump shaft seals won't wear out plus it is definitely easier to pump.
@@brucejones2354 So yeah you can do this too.
@@mikeznel6048, believe me, I know this from experience ( yes I should have added fuel to the tank BEFOR I ran out of fuel) ! That plus over 23 years repairing ALL of the equipment in an large excavating company owned by my dad.
Hey, I'm kinda green still, but on my truck previous owner installed a Fass Fuel pump. Can I just turn that on and let run to prime the fuel system after changing filters?
Bro those steer tires though 😂 so bad get bridges is my favorite
Josh, can I use a 12v fuel transfer pump to evacuate the head/rail instead of the brake bleeder? Would be easier than bringing a compressor on board the boat. Also, can you suggest a pre-oiler retrofit arrangement for my 1999 9WR marine 3406e?
Thanks
Hello brother hope you are doing well .
I have semi trucks with c12 motor .I need your help to that which diagnostic software or scanner should I buy to do find fault code ..thanks
I just discover where you work 😀 but I’m keeping it for my self
BOOO BOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!
Lol
keep up the good work
I know this is not related to this video,but I have an 05 mxs twin turbo acert. It's freshly rebuilt and runs great but it has lazy throttle response and below 1450 rpm it has no power at all. Boost good new turbos, all new fuel oil and air filters what am I missing???
Insight! Salamat.
I got a 95 320 L excavator with a 3066 engine it had been parked I got new batteries put in and it started right up so I let it sit there and I don't warm up and then the fuel line Musta leaked out the fuel and it quit I just assumed it ran out. So I quit for the day. The fuel line is chewed through or rotted on the end but the rest seem to be soft it's the
rubber fuel line goes from underneath tank to I can't see where so is.
is it pointing towards engine and going all the way to a promer and the filter system and do I have to fix the line fill the tank and then is there a pump bleeder thing like this where you hand pump it up or do I have to crack a line and let it bleed? That's what we used to do it Perkins diesel in the test cell. I wasn't an engine tester but a bunch of my friends were.
I think I want to get a regular service manual for this machine it's got about 10,500 hours on it it was taken care of really good it really works strong but I got it back in the woods of the backyard and I knocked it track off so I got to get it go and get it up on harder grow and try to get the track back on. Am I going to have to bleed the system or is this pump gonna be enough to start it once it idols it'll bleed out like I say it was just idling when it shut down. It's a little hard to work on back there I just want to get it going and get it up here by the house and done a flat ground if I have to replace the whole line. Also I couldn't really tell if that was 3/8 or 5/16 holes I thought it was three eights but then I don't know till I get a piece off I think I got about 12 feet are brand new 3/8 inch Goodyear fuel line someplace I presume the prime pump is on all these I didn't notice where the mechanical pump was on the engine I was just looking at the filters and the injector pump. I probably also want to fix that fuel shut off too because once with leaking I couldn't stop and probably get some water in there and frozen moved a piece of rubber or some thing wondering if I can just take that apart and go get a rubber seal thanks in advance if you see this
Hey Josh I turn my fuel return line and fittings around, and I always put the updated fuel return hardware on about all engines I can.
Do you mean you run the fuel lines with the supply at the back? That would make more sense since the head generally is tilted up in the front.
@@AdeptApe No Cat wants the supply to enter the front. Take the return ninety degree fitting out on the rear of the head and use the straight fitting in the filter base. Put the ninety in the filter base and turn your line around and use the ninety elbow at the rear of the head. That way the straight fitting can go only one way in. You don't have to worry about the angle. You can then take the line and use the ninety to set the angle. Plus when you R and I the line your not going into the firewall. Gives you more movement.
I do the same thing but I plumb it into the bottom of the oil filter base so my oil is filtered from the shop bulk tank.
A true master. Question... is there anything about working on a Cat that you are NOT comfortable with? Anything that makes you nervous?
You really need to prelube through the oil cooler before the oil filter . This will help by filtering all the oil that is pumped into the system. Take my word for it, new oil is not free of contaminants. I saw mishandle product that would make you never trust a oil distributor ever again when I use to work on a customers trucks at their yard. I have even seen a tanker tuck used to haul away used oil and then filled with new oil for delivery without having a clean out done. Truck hauling fuel would also be used to haul oil. Multiple different oils being hauled without.having a cleaning between product changes.
I elimi ated all that problem for myself by only using Amsoil product.
Our oil system is luckily pumped through a pretty good set of oil filters before it reaches the oil dispensers. Can't say it is 100% free from contaminates, but it's at least as clean as the oil after the filter. Good comment.
Hi there, just afterthe part number of your snapon brake bleeder pls?
Adept Ape, I live in Phoenix an offen idle a dodge Cummins for a couple hours a day to keep AC running. Does running AC add enough drag to keep cylinders from washing out? Thanks in advance.
I don't think so. Idle it at 1200 RPM.
Sensational 👍👍
Is it the same process for a 12.7 Detroit?
Hi , can I add a fuel lifter fo my cat c7 Acert , thank you
Sounds Awsome. Nothing like a cat
Hello. Good video.
I have a cat c13 and it has engine oil in the coolant system and also a little bit coolant in the oil pan.
And the air drier is blowing a bit oil out.
Where should i look for a leak?
Awesome!
Also a good way to prime system after running out of fuel?
Yes it will work for that aswell
Thanks for the video man I'm finishing up a inframe right now and I was wondering what do yall use that works best to clean the blue grease like stuff off the heads?
I work on Cat 3508's on towboats as an amateur and what tips do you have for airlock with nothing but 🔧's
Where are you from I need help starting my tractor trailer it's been in storage storage for awhile and the motor spins but is not firing It's a 2001 Cummings ISX motor
Hello kind Sir. Where is the best place to get a CAT fuel pressure test gage to use with the Schrader port? I've seen you use one on some other videos and would like to grab one for my kit. Thanks so much for your time.
im the pilipino mechanik... may i have a question...
what is the exact pressure of... injector of engine... of your video...