Lanoguard - 6 Months Later on our 25 Year old Motorhome
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- čas přidán 27. 01. 2024
- I've been wanting to clean and protect the motorhome chassis for years and after some research I managed to find a product which does EXACTLY what I want - Lanoguard. It's made in Britain; is natural; non toxic; safe for the environment and easy to apply.
Watch the video of when I applied Lanoguard
• RUST can KILL your MOT...
Use the link below if you're interested in purchasing Lanoguard and £5 off your first order if it is over £50.
snwbl.io/lanoguard/ADAM90500
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Ordered a kit now. Thanks for the useful info. Looking forward to using on my 1991 Hymer and 2023 Transporter.
That's great, @crazyhorses73. I don't think you'll be disappointed 👍👍
Thanks for the update. Appreciate it. 👍😀☘️
No problem, @GeoffAnthonyClinics. Thanks for commenting, @GeoffAnthonyClinics 👍👍
Got to say we use it and it’s so much better than the other stuff that hides issues keeps the underbody looking good, would recommend it on newer vehicles especially
Thanks for commenting, @sccobyste 👍👍
Going to have a go with this stuff. Looks great. Thanks
That's great, @thecollieroos. Thanks for commenting, @thecollieroos 👍👍
It does a grand job doesn’t it - I’ve been really impressed but great reminder to re-treat in March 👍 All the best, David 👍
Thanks @LeisureBit 👍👍
Thanks for sharing this. I've been wondering what it was like.
No problem, @MrFHLH. Glad you enjoyed the video 👍👍
lanolin is the oil in sheep's fur that keeps them dry when it rains. in the woolen clothes that we Norwegians wear in the winter, there is also some lanolin left. It transports moisture from the body and out when you are physically active in the winter. I have a Herman that we call Hedda Hymer and is the same model as yours. I've considered doing the same, but haven't gotten around to it. thanks for videos.
That's exactly how it works, @MagnhartJohannesen 👍👍. I hope you're Hymer is nice and corrosion free underneath 🙂
Good to see this follow up. I did mine with Lanoguard about a month ago. Pleased so far. Must say I avoided jet wash and used a churn brush to clean off as much as possible before applying Lanoguard on to dry but not spotless surfaces and sections. Water is the enemy - especially in box sections! I’ll reapply in a couple of months doing a light dry brush over first and then going straight on top of what’s there from last time. This year I’m taking the van out for a good 30 min run approx weekly whenever it’s dry weather (and preferably warm!) - keeps the damp off the underside! Sprayer quality was my only complaint, but I was using old Lanoguard and their advice is to use it fresh if possible. The box section 360 spray wand was great before it blocked but useless after unblocking. Fortunately I’d done all the key sections by then. Echo the suggestions about getting mudflaps/guards sorted and I’d suggest making sure your bonnet is water tight and not letting rain get into the front end to cause rot whilst sitting - another reason to get out for a good run to dry things out!
Thanks for commenting, @mobilvettamotorhome2056
Sorry boys and girls but Wayoyl has the edge, spray or brush it on, inside box sections, on exposed underbody parts(other than discs!) and once on, forget about it, otherwise done! It smells ok too, it’s just a bugger to spray on in winter because it’s like lard. It has been around since the Stone Age, and I believe Fred Flintstone used it on his passion wagon! 😊
I did some tests with waxoyl and used inside of box sections, it actually accelerates corrosion. The reason for this is it gives an orange peel finish. This holds moisture which evaporates and re condenses inside the box section. Eventually the troughs of the waxoyl break down and moisture creeps underneath it.
A far superior product is bilt hamber dynax. It gives a smooth even finish allowing any moisture to run off. Waxoyl is an antiquated product that relies on brand name. Like I said, it accelerates corrosion
Thanks for commenting, @user-ql9qs9gr9i. I hope you enjoyed the video?
@@peterraymond3653 interesting, so that is what you found? I used to run a classic car restoration company. We tried all of the available products, just found Waxoyl to be, fit and forget’. If we sprayed it on heavy, never was an issue, it would on very hot summers days, might drip out of the sill water drain holes. I have a few classic cars, one of which was Waxoyl’d in summer of 1993, to this day the Waxoyl is still a thin layer of wax that is perfectly waterproof, and of more importance, there is no corrosion.
Rot usually starts where spotwelded steel panels are, and or, where commonly the manufacturer failed to get any paint protection onto a box section. obviously steel has some ‘flex’ when driving the vehicle, and steel panels exposed to out rain all resulted in the usual rot!
But no, after 20 odd years, she’s fine. Sad thing is I have a 74 Celica GT, that was Zebarted, now that didn’t fare well, now needs sills, valances etc!
Nonetheless, interesting point you said
only when not prepped correctly.
spray anything on and expect it to stick to grease, oil, heavy rust or dirt and you eill get it pealing in no time.
clean properly and have the waxoyl warm so it can be sprayed on and it works a treat.@@peterraymond3653
I have a 2001 Ducato and Waxoyl is a no no. Sills and inner wheel arches still rusted. And when you try and weld, it drips and spatters all over you because you can't fully clean it off. Just my thoughts 🤔
Both lanoguard and Bilt Hamber are excellent products. Personally,I am quite happy to get under my camper van once a year and check it all out, repair whatever is necessary and redo the Bilt Hamber that I use. Light fluid film products like this allow you to see whats going on below the surface and dont trap moisture as waxoyl can do. Your truck looks in good shape underneath. Its easier to keep it that way than to deal with rust once it gets a hold.
Thanks for commenting, @vamboroolz1612
You can treat the wood as well, lanoguard actually make a timber treatment. I did a test patch on my garden shed and it's still waterproof, I think the wood treatment has a fungicide added but it's basically the same. I gave my old motorbiking leather boots a good soaking as well, the goretex lining ripped and now they stay waterproof!
Lanolin is a key ingredient in skincare moisturisers, it's amazing stuff 😁
Lanoguard suggest not putting it on wood because any moisture trapped in the wood will stay in there and it could rot. However, like you say, @scorpio9578 they have a version for wood 👍👍
Hi mate. I'm sure lanoguard is supposed to stay a bit oily. If it feels dry,. I would definitely retreat it. Also, I would lanoguard inside the chassis members through the drain holes. You can get moisture inside them and the lanoguard will help prevent further corrosion (apologies if you did this - it's a while since I watched your vid). I used Bilt-Hamber XB on my underside and whilst its very good, I need to reapply too 🫤
Thanks @tommo9757. Yes, I also did inside the cross members 👍👍
Don't forget Lanoguard is a annul application, needing to be done every 12 months. Personally I'd would rather do away with all the rust area's and cover with a good rust eater, red oxide 3-4 coats the zinc cover and of course a rust protection paint. Lanoguard is a bit on the expensive side is my personal view. Another option is barn chain oil, thick and does great. Hand garden sprayer to apply, last 2-3 years. Great to see Herman is still on the go, and I do hope you both enjoyed the Ireland trip. Pity you didn't venture to the north.
Stay safe and enjoy.
Thanks @tstuart7333 👍👍. Didn't you watch our vlogs on Irelands? 😉 Yes, we had a great time there thanks
Its not as expensive as a good welder though is it?.,I paid £150 for the large kit ,have 80% of the grease left 200mm of one bottle plus one full bottle for my mazda bongo-plus Ive injected the box sections and sills with the injector which you cant do with zinc oxide...if it costs me £50/year Ill be happy.,small price to pay for rust free van.
Been looking at lanoguard for my MH as the chassis is very good with no visible signs of flaking rust, it has the odd spot of surface rust but not much which for a 2005 shows it has led a good life in its 23,000 miles
If I derusted those parts I would use POR15 as I’ve used it before with good results
Sounds great, @jimstelfox6120 👍👍. I'd start thinking about getting some protection on there. The cleaning took the longest time but it was very therapeutic. Applying the Lanoguard was very easy to apply.
❤I think some mud flaps would help, front and rear👍👍
I think I'll look for a set, @JohnnyBurr 👍👍
To say that Herman is 5 years older than Nessa he is in better nick underneath. I had to used a needle gun to remove large areas of rust to then treat and then paint over. Once we finally get her back from having her Gearbox fitted, which came in from Mercedes Germany just over a week ago, so should hopefully be soon as I have missed the old girls. I will be looking at Lanoguard to give additional protection to the underside. Will also be interesting to see how my rust removal has held up over the last 6 months. I will be putting her in for an early MOT as well as it always got a bit close to the bone with going away for our main holiday.
I wish you all the best of luck, @SimonWestall-DiggerBuckett with Nessa 👍👍👍
@@HermanHitstheRoad Thank you.
I've only been doing about 2000 miles per annum the last few years. I apply lanoguard every two years, seems to stiil give good protection over that time.....water still beads off.
Hi Ads. We enjoy your Vlogs because like you we also have an older motorhome. 'Pippin', a 'Swift Sundance' on a Fiat Ducato chassis will be 20 years old this year. She has 36k miles on the clock from new which is amazing and she runs like a dream. We had the underneath cleaned and under-sealed last year. Any advice on timing belts ? Despite low mileage I guess that age can also play a part in deterioration ? I also guess that it's a belt and not a chain. Any advice ? Love to you and Zoe, Dave and Soph x
Thanks Dave and Soph👍👍
Wrt Timing belts I think they should be changed every 20k miles
Im a waxoyl fan however i also have a twin motor compressor (that i run on low pressure so i dont fill the garage with waxoyl vapour)and im a fabricator so i remove all rust before the first application. the key to getting waxoyl smooth and nice and thin is heat..... buy a huge stainless 18L cooking pot and a propane cooking ring. Half fill pot with water keep waxoyl and waxoyl sprayer (metal type not the flimsy plastic one) in the warm water, bring to the simmer and keep it simmering during application, on each refill of the sprayer let it rewarm the metal body for 5 mins in the pot, also keep the garage warm and have the vehicle in the garage for a few days with a heater on if poss..... follow these steps and your first application will be a good start.
you must now every year check and remove any bits that flake and recoat with a thinned down coat....for this either use 20%white spirit in your melted waxoyl or buy Carplan WaxOil that is thinner from the start. if you get the waxoyl thin it creeps into tight gaps, however dont expect miracles, its not fix and forget, water traps on a land rover are usually seam welded and have a pu sealer applied then etch primmed, primmed, and top coated all in 2k paint and always scotched between coats, my land rovers are daily drivers and get abused, some give them bad press for being rusty crates however they are a glorified tractor like many van/motor homes there are many water traps and as in the case of a land rover they are maintenance heavy. there is no harm in once every 3 mpnths getting on your knees and taking a look, if you catch rust early you can beat it.
my 1985 land rover proves these steps work
and our new transit custom (now 3 years old) didnt see a single wet mile until i had stripped every componant from the underside and done the steps above in 2 k and waxoyl, also added huge mudflaps and inner mudflaps behind the front wheels, had a look under her the other day....not a single speck of rust on the chassis or the running gear and she is a daily driver for the wife.
put the hard work in and it will pay off
Wayne😉
My goodness, @waynestevens3662 that sounds like a lot of work. I'll stick with the Lanoguard. It's a lot less messy and faster to apply
Ha ha i know@@HermanHitstheRoad its not easy, but its well worth doing it right, the problem these days is alot of garages arnt doing it right leading customers to diy it..... i invite the customer to call in every day to see progress, this has led to folks paying more for more work because they know if its done right at a price thats good for everyone we all walk away happy.
Can you fit some kind of mud flaps to to back wheels to stop the road spray hitting the body?
Good idea, @Henry98346. I might take a look at doing that. Thanks
Hi Ads. Really surprising how the underside of your motorhome is in such good condition for its age. I wonder if its worth treating all those small areas of rust before applying your next coat of Lanoguard?
Thanks @Andy.Gledhill.Models. 👍👍. In 6 months time I'll clean the dirt off with a hose or jet wash and reapply the Lanoguard. With the outriggers I'll use the Lanoguard grease if necessary.
Would be interested in a follow up video after it’s been her washed. Wonder if dirt etc sticks to the lanoguard?
I'm thinking of doing another one in 6 months time, @trekster6470
It is interesting to see that there is nothing behind the rear wheel to stop mud or water spray to go all over the floor of the vehicle. 🧐
It's weird because the other side isn't so bad, @ari.voutilainen
Sorry if a stupid question, but how and/or where did you jet wash the undercarriage? Where I come from almost every petrol station has a maintenance pit, but I don't remember ever seeing one in the UK. How long did it take you to clean it and long long did you wait between cleaning and applying the solution? Thanks.
I used my own jet wash (a Karcher) at my own house, @PauloHenriqueSethEyeCycled. I thing I waited a couple of hours between washing and spraying. The surface doesn’t have to be bone dry, as Lanoguard will displace moisture to an extent, but you shouldn't apply in to a dripping wet surface.
Here's the video of when I applied it czcams.com/video/Z-t4HZsbobQ/video.html
I hope that helps?
Try your local bus depot. My local bus depot has its own facilities for washing their buses down and washing underneath, and they allow private vans to use this. They charge £40 but their staff do it for you and its a hot power spray powered by a diesel generator, much more powerful than your local car wash, and they took it up on lift and get right underneath. We'll worth the money.
What's the advantages of lanoguard over waxoyl?
Thanks for commenting, @andyglawe7804. I've used Waxoyl but I don't know it's capabilities. I found it messy especially out of the spray can. Lanoguard is environmentally friendly since it's made from natural materials and is very easy to apply. You can check out the "Why Lanoguard" webpage here www.lanoguard.co.uk/pages/why-lanoguard
Not sure its worth doing to new new m/h but I might well be tempted to spend an afternoon applying some to the old VW.
Great idea, @GedandMichele 👍👍
Agree - New motorhome should be built with modern corrosion protection. It’s the older ones that need protection IMO.
prevention is better than cure
would you not treat the rusty areas then paint and treat with Lanoguard
You can do, @seanoreilly5381 but it isn't necessary with Lanoguard because it stops air and moisture getting in for the rusting process to occur.
Karcher pressure wash before lanogard i think would work
Disagree - keep the pressure wash off it. Forces water into all the cracks and crevices where it speeds corrosion!
Thanks for commenting, @davidviner4932.
Old engine oil and diesel works, kills rust dead. Can’t produce new metal but will stop any advancement of the bug.
Thanks @donaldtrumpton. It sounds really messy to me and I can imagine it being sticky and collecting dirt while driving
Why did you not clean areas of rust of and treat the areas with cure rust first prior to spraying with this lanaguard are they also sponsoring your channel sorry if l have spelt product name wrong
That's exactly what I did, @danielsellers8538. In this video I explain what I did including cleaning, rust converter and lanoguard czcams.com/video/Z-t4HZsbobQ/video.html.
Both videos are sponsored by Lanoguard but that doesn't change my view in anyway.
Give it a wire brush, paint it with stone chip, then Lanoguard it 😉
Thanks @cloggsy1971 👍👍
I'd apply the lanoguard to bare, treated metal. If you paint or underseal it, the lano can't coat the metal so won't work as well: it does creep back over scratches etc so I just reapply it every 6 months
unfortunately, chassis rust from the inside out, spraying the outside which obviously has no or very little rust on it is just a waste of money, you need a product like waxoyl or morris anchorwax spraying on any visible rust outside, but more importantly, inside the chassis boxes where there is no paint or protection!
Phil
Thanks for commenting, @philhermetic. The Lanoguard kit comes with an attachment for spraying inside the box sections which you would have seen in the video of me applying it. Lanoguard stops the moisture getting to the metal and removes from the area so it definitely is worth applying it on non rusty areas
That's why we spray it inside chassis box sections etc 😂
@@scorpio9578 in the video it was clearly only sprayed on the outside of the chassis, which is pointless as there was very little rust for the product to soak into.. I was commenting on this video, not what other people might do!
I only showed you the outside because it would be impossible to get my camera in the box section to video it, @philhermetic.
As I’m not there I can’t be exact. But the outriggers are normally bolted to the body.? Some you show have bolts upwards however some have no bolts mounted to underbody.
“Any” corrosion within 30cm of load bearing point is a fail or should be at least down as advisory.
Interesting video and product seems worth a go👍
Please delete if needed.
Thanks for commenting, @joeangels. You are correct on both accounts. Wrt the bolts; that's how it came from the factory. And the outriggers haven't failed the MOT. I assume that's because they've not rusted through and made a hole
@@HermanHitstheRoad d) Body, cab or chassis:
(i) excessively corroded at mounting points
(ii) corroded at mounting points to the extent that overall security or stability is seriously impaired
Major
Dangerous
…………………………………
You are correct about not rusted through so not excessive “testers discretion” ( therefore not a fail) but as I commented it is still corroded so would be advised so you as owner would know about it and be aware …., or if you was buying it you would be made aware of it. Any corrosion within 30cm of a prescribed area. Hope this helps.
Please delete if needed.
I'd rather use Bilt Hambler stuff and do it once
Thanks for commenting, @bluetonic9538.
ads if you fitted mud guards you would have no muck thrown up
Thanks @allenmclaughlin5283 👍👍
Axle stands man...
Thanks for commenting, @paulcowell7588 but I have no idea what you are referring to. Please elaborate
It's stood on its wheels man...why does he need axle stands man? 😂
I read it attracts rodents but have no idea if this is true. Anyone know for sure?
I don't think so, @MarkLeabon. How would you test that?
@HermanHitstheRoad I guess just from people's experiences. I will probably try it out anyway.
Not impressed TBH, even Lanoguard don't claim it treats rust. It comes across as another CZcamsrs Ponzi scheme. I'll stick with what I know works, Waxoyl and their related products.
Thanks for commenting, @frankkinlan888
Lanoguard is a complete gimmick, Do Not Believe It!,, as advertised it is easy to apply but don't let that fool you there really are much better products out there at similar cost if you are prepared to put a little more effort in. It may be slightly better than doing nothing but not much imho!
Thanks for commenting