Accusump Accumulator Install (Racing oil Control)
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- čas přidán 14. 04. 2023
- how to install an Canton Racing Accusump Accumulator.
this keeps engine oil starvation to a minimum and saves engines at the race track.
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great video mate this reminds me of a high school lecture good job
Underated channel. You have the best 3rd gen content.
I remember H-O racing selling these,in the 70s. Nice install.
Whoa.. this is the first video of yours ive seen. Absolutely incredible. This is better than any instructional video ive ever seen. Subscribed!
Good work Sir. True craftsmanship. I need to get an accusump and this is the best explanation I've found so far. All the info you give is just what I was looking for for my application. Cheers 🍻
After using this Accusump for a while, I decided to bypass the smart 40psi pressure switch.
so instead of putting the 12v+ wires to the pressure switch, just connect the 2 wires.
so the accusump valve will activate when the toggle switch is turned on.
basically making it work like a manual ball valve, just with a switch.
Awesome thanks for the update
Why did you choose to bypass the pressure switch?
Track guys told me those pressure switches fail a lot.
Thanks for the informative video, I learned a lot about this system… the way you modified the system is similar to my white color C4 Corvette race car… but I don’t have the lighted toggle switch… nice addition
@@3rdGenGuy Did you have any issues with the pressure switch? Or just heresay?
Solid Vid can’t wait to put one of these on my Datsun L series engine one day!
Very good. Looking up how to install one on my GR86, But this gave me some insight on what to do when installing it like checking for leaks of course, but also helping me figure out how to do the wiring.
you and a lot of others unfortately with the gen 2s.
glad the video helped
Suuuuper thorough. Thanks
Yes, very informative, thanks so much!
Your video came up in my feed today. Thought I would share my experience with this product. Short take, I would not use one if they gave it to me for free. I had two of these blow up on me, the second one while the car had been parked for months in the garage. I switched to a Moroso unit for the following reasons. Prior to the first unit failing, on occasion, the unit would purge from the pressure relief valve. If one looks close you will see it is on the oil side of the unit so multiple times I would have to clean the engine bay. According to Canton the valve is not on the oil side. All you have to do is look and if someone does not believe me you can pressurize your unit with the oil pump and pull the pin, it will be oil not air. Do at your own risk as you have been warned! The air input is on the other side of the unit. So that was removed and we use a pipe fitting. I know what your thinking, no pressure relief that's why you had two blow up on you. Okay, fair enough, so how much pressure does your oil pump put out. Mine was about 60 psi upon cold start and drops as the oil heats but lets go the other way and say it doubles. Then I will even spot you a couple of extra pounds and let's say it goes up to 200 psi. After the second unit failed I asked them if they, Canton, pressure test their product. At the time they told me no. When I called Moroso and asked the same question they told me 3000 psi. When both Canton units failed the threads of the cylinder just pulled out and it looked like spaghetti made out of aluminum. The Moroso unit ends are held in with o rings and circlips. This was back around 2007 so maybe the products have changed but seeing the Canton product with the relief valve still on the wrong side makes me think not. What's the old adage about compressing a liquid? I have no relation with either product and wish all well. Enjoyed your video.
you shouldn't remove the safety blow off valve because oil expands when hot.
& yes that valve is on the oil side. idk why canton says it's not.
the oil can expand far far above engine oil pressure and blow up units.
i'm talking like 300+ psi potentially
my tank filled up to about 150psi just on the dyno alone and my engine only spits out about 70psi.(valve turned off)
the early brass electronic valves were junk and those failed a lot, the new valve is a different design.
HOWEVER, if this tank proves to be bad, i'll gladly switch to a Moroso.
@@3rdGenGuy That is interesting information. When I was chasing down my problem I found information on the relief valve that said it was not to be used for liquid. Still not sure how it would ever get to 300 psi. Would think you have seals in the engine that would go at that pressure. Another thought is that if you are on a dyno, other than it being a pre- oiler there should not be much use as once the engine fires up the oil pressure should equalize and the unit will refill with essentially cool oil, unless this is where the issue is compounded when heating and the pressure is limited to the unit. My second one failed on a cold none running engine. Don't get me wrong, I am a big fan of oil accumulators just not theirs. Here is what I found years back when I was chasing the issue and opted for another brand. Maybe they have addressed whatever my issue was . Best of luck and I enjoyed your video:
czcams.com/video/vyaGoj60A6s/video.html
I talked with Canton racing's Tech today.
the accusump smart valve turned off, acts like a one way valve.
so it fills but won't discharge unless turned on.
but heat will still build up in the tank and keep increasing from the volume flow alone.
even if the tank is full.
I bypassed the 40psi pressure sensor and wired it straight.
so it acts like a manual ball valve on a switch.
Nice video bro. I always wonder how do these limit the amount of oil flow into them when refilling (ie how much flow/pressure does it take away from the engine whilst refilling). Is there any worry about the accumulator stealing all the oil pressure away from the engine whilst it refills? I assume it has a tiny orifice or something to limit flow in and out.
not really an issue because Oil pumps are bypassed internally.
a lot of excess oil is just bypassed, especially at high RPMs.
that and Accusump don't really fill or discharge that much during normal use.
This is such a nice fucking car. The money spent must be insane but I love it. A Trans Am equivalent is my dream car.
Is your checkvalve female AN on each side? I need one as well and was looking through Improved Racing's site as well as Summit, but it wasn't clear how the female to femal AN check vlave worked. The one side looks like a big hole with no threads, online anyway? My cooler has male AN build in, so I was going to go -10 female to male coupler > check valve > -10 male to female coupler > AN three-way T fitting. Does that sound right? Thanks and great video!
my check valve is Male AN.
oil cooler is -10 ORB to female -10 ----> check valve
I just need a device to preoil my engine to prevent dry start . Is this a proper application or is there something else to look at?
If the oil in your acusump is cold an it hits the oil thermostat won't that stop the oil from getting to your engine. I know the oil is supposed to be warm with the engine running. But after some time it will cool. Like on a long highway drive.
the thermostat is never fully closed(10% flows through), so a small amount of oil is always flowing through the system.
the accusump even unactivated, gets pretty warm under the hood,
but would you rather colder oil enter your engine or NONE at all in a turn?
Great Video!! Do you need to add extra oil with this setup?
it's not as easy as adding 1 or 2 quarts of oil.
this guy does a good job at explaining how to set your oil level with an Accusump.
czcams.com/video/GKYj0iTnNAE/video.html
@@3rdGenGuy Thanks bro
So upon initial install, do you need to overfill the engine with the amount of oil the accusump holds? (So 3qt sump youd overfill the engine 3qts) also how does this work with oil changes? I plan on going manual valve as recommended by canton for drifting. Thanks for any help
so my valve is now wired up as a manual valve, just with a switch instead of a ball valve.
all you do is ignore the pressure sensor and connect those 2 wires.
as far as filling , it's hard to judge without racing first.
Don't just add extra quarts to the oil pan.
this guy does a good job at explaining it.
czcams.com/video/GKYj0iTnNAE/video.html
My question is: How does an accumulator impact the oil level in the pan? If it you keep the same volume, lets say 6 quarts, and your accumulator takes up 2 quarts, then your pan becomes *quite low* at 4 quarts (1/3 drop). However, if you increase your overall volume by 2 quarts then you could potentially (radically) overfill your pan by those 2 quarts if the accumulator responses to a low pressure situation (a long, high speed turn, for example).
So.. how does the accumulator solution deal with this? Would an external electric oil pump, plumbed in a similar manner, provide similar protection without the dramatic increase (or decrease) in volume?
I recommended watching this guy's video.
he does a good job explaining how to set the oil level with an Accusump.
czcams.com/video/GKYj0iTnNAE/video.html
as far as overfilling while running, usually oil gets trapped in places like the valve covers.
even if you shoved 1qt more into the pan, the engine on track would refill the Accusump within 5-7 seconds or so.
How are you printing the wire labels or are they preprinted?
my Brother P label maker has heat shrink labels you can buy.
so it prints what I want on a piece of heat shrink
If a non thermostatic oil cooler system, does one still need to use a check valve?
Thanks!
if you aren't running the Accusump in the same circuit as a oil cooler, the check valve isnt necessary.
Do you have a part number for the check valve you used?
Someone told me that oil accumulators are only appropriate for track dedicated cars tuned to idle above 2k because the pressure in the accumulator is more than in a fairly stock motor at idle. I'm not an expert but is there any truth to that?
so an accumulator when open, will have the same oil pressure as the engine.
so mine runs about 40psi when idling, and about 60psi when racing.
IF my engine starves of oil, the accusump back fills the engine with the oil/pressure it has stored.
I wouldn't call it a street item, but I drive 200 miles to events with it.
@@3rdGenGuy thanks. Someone said that if it's electronically controlled, it shouldn't be open during idle. I just want a cheaper solution to a dry sump system for my BRZ as it has a flat 4 and oiling problems
I have an electronic valve, but it's rigged to a toggle switch for ON/OFF.
if the valve is turned off, the accusump becomes a one-way valve.
it will fill up and stop when full, but won't discharge. it'll discharge when the switch is turned on.
and ya, an accusump is a perfect flat 4 engine saver
White teflon on oil lines hey
Canton racing recommends Teflon tape and not paste on their accusumps.
@@3rdGenGuy Yea, haha I was kinda being a smart ass. Gas piping yellow teflon for the win!
Can use paste...just have to know what the hell you are doing.
Canton racing recommends Teflon tape and not paste on their Accusump.
Thread paste will clog the internals of the Accusump.