I checked the cable on Fuel pedal side on my X1140 and it did not need adjustment. I offend wondered about the stop on the floor. I didn't have a second set of eyes available to check but I wondered if lowering this would cause the throttle cable to hit the fuel stop before the pedal hit its stop. I would guess one could always lengthen the cable on the engine side to account for this and allow greater travel on the HST. I look forward to your next video to see if this is where you take us.
The cool thing with this set up is that the engine throttle is flexible, so if you bottom out the screw in the cab and step on the pedal it will bottom out at the high limit screw on the engine and flex that way it can continue to push the transmission valve open. I will go through that in the next video! Thank you for watching and commenting
Thanks for putting some info on. Still having trouble with finding the adjustment. Mine will stall out if you slam the throttle. And will not go up any hill without being in low.
Different "foot control" question. I have a 2012 1100C and my neighbor has a 2014. My pedal requires double the pressure to use it compared to his. It's just too much. Is there a spring adjustment or something?
Ah yes. Could be a couple things. Over time the cable gets rusty inside the sleeve. Should be spray greased every 200 hours or so. There is also a grease point under the bed that gets overlooked too. Try to grease the cable at both ends and see if you can see the grease zerk. Have some in the cab pumping the throttle slowly and you should be able see where things pivot and go. Then spray the heck out of it!
Thanks for the video! That made my acceleration so much smoother!
Awesomeness! I'm glad it helped.
Great vids👍🏻👍🏻
Glad you like them!
I checked the cable on Fuel pedal side on my X1140 and it did not need adjustment. I offend wondered about the stop on the floor. I didn't have a second set of eyes available to check but I wondered if lowering this would cause the throttle cable to hit the fuel stop before the pedal hit its stop. I would guess one could always lengthen the cable on the engine side to account for this and allow greater travel on the HST. I look forward to your next video to see if this is where you take us.
The cool thing with this set up is that the engine throttle is flexible, so if you bottom out the screw in the cab and step on the pedal it will bottom out at the high limit screw on the engine and flex that way it can continue to push the transmission valve open.
I will go through that in the next video!
Thank you for watching and commenting
Thanks for putting some info on. Still having trouble with finding the adjustment. Mine will stall out if you slam the throttle. And will not go up any hill without being in low.
@@davidbaker8402 Is your parking brake stuck on perhaps? Does it feel sluggish always?
No sir. I’m sure it’s out of adjustment.
Different "foot control" question. I have a 2012 1100C and my neighbor has a 2014. My pedal requires double the pressure to use it compared to his. It's just too much. Is there a spring adjustment or something?
Ah yes. Could be a couple things. Over time the cable gets rusty inside the sleeve. Should be spray greased every 200 hours or so. There is also a grease point under the bed that gets overlooked too.
Try to grease the cable at both ends and see if you can see the grease zerk. Have some in the cab pumping the throttle slowly and you should be able see where things pivot and go. Then spray the heck out of it!
Would all of this info apply to an X900 Kubota as well?
Yeah, it's pretty much the same stuff
Will this tweak work on an RTV 500?
You bet! Follow the linkage and watch how it works. It will be essentially the same.