Esab sentinel welding hood / helmet unboxing and first look
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- čas přidán 6. 07. 2024
- In this episode we look at the esab sentinel welding hood and see what its all about.
0:00:00 Intro
0:01:39 Unboxing
0:04:55 Looking at the design
0:12:50 Adjusting the ADF cartridge
0:14:53 Conclusion
Hey Greg it’s Joey again. I went back to my local shop today grabbing some 6010 and tried that helmet on man that thing is nice, I know we talked about how it’s not your fav looking hood but for the price it’s not too shabby. And noticed it’s pretty light like you said also. Might marketplace that janky ass milawaukee die grinder that sucks ass and scoop me a new star trooper sentinel hood lol
Great content. Just discovered your channel a few weeks ago. I recently got a wide-view hood from Yes Welder via Amazon. I can see what I'm doing with it much better than the Hobart Impact series hood that I got with the 210MVP welder that I bought about a decade ago, and am just starting to use more now. This ESAB model looks very similar to one made by Vevor, which is a lot cheaper. Good thing there are many options out there nowadays....
Welcome 😃. It’s funny you mentioned modern welding hoods being so good even at the cheap levels. I have a 40$ harbor freight I bought and it’s legitimately good. The difference between what existed 15-20 years ago and now is night and day. Which is a great thing because it’s more accessible to more people 😀
That’s a nice helmet. The yellow lens must be like those shooting glasses. They block the blue rays of light or something and help with clarity. Good info, thanks
I think you’re right, in the comparison video I will definitely shoot arc footage between the yellow and clear to get an idea of how they perform.
The A60 Looks to be a great hood, I've been chewing over this one and the optrel for weeks now.
I really like the esab. I have been working on the comparison video between the sentinel, Viking, and miller infinity, and the esab is definitely up there. I hate to admit it (being a Viking 3350 fan) but the esab is so much lighter than the Viking and the layout of the wider view is more useable. It definitely pays to try out other hoods lol.
The only problem with it is the outer lens gets scratched and messed up very easy
@@Cod-Convict yeah, it's because of that I've been so indecisive .
@@DazFab_Metalworks yeah I know a guy that has one he likes it but he’s like super safety guy with all the extra protection but he had to change the front lens already he had it about a month it’s hard to lay down on a table because to lay it still you have to lay it on its head gear and get that all dirty or it will roll around and scratch the front , I’m just gunna get the Viking 3950 or whatever it’s called the same price Lincoln it’s the top selling helmet for a reason, but if you get it let me know how it is
Esab makes some good stuff man!
isn't made by them it's made by a manufacturer in China they make for unimig in Australia which is way cheaper
@@charlieeeeee87 didn’t know that! I personally use Miller for my equipment. I use a dynasty 210 tig runner but I’ve used a couple Esabs at friends places and thought they were nice. Learn something new every day!
@@EAGLINWRX Millers helmet is made by OTOS in south korea, there hobart brothers line is also made by the same chinese company in China to esab. Trust me the chinese have caught up big time with welding equipment you will see it very soon coming to the usa market.
@@charlieeeeee87 I’m pretty sure all the equipment I have says made in USA in Wisconsin but idk.
@@EAGLINWRX nah it's otos trust me you can look at the website same helmet mould and adf filter. Same goes with their goggles they aren't usa made.
It seems like if the helmet is more compact and form fitting it could feel lighter. Maybe that's what you're noticing? Thanks for another great video Greg! 😁
In the comparison video I really look into it and I figured out some things. Part of why it feels so light has to do with how they balanced it and where the headgear mounts. When you flip it up it sits perfectly balanced which makes it feel like it weighs nothing. The difference between it and my Viking is significant. I might be switching just to save my neck lol.
Balance didn't even occur to me, but would be huge in how it feels especially when you're in "normal conditions". Seems like they are after the perfect hood if it keeps the grinding material out of the outer cover like you pointed out.
I have the anniversary special edition of the same model. Awesome welding helmet 👍👍
I did even know they ever made special editions of it. I looked it up and found a few, they look much better than just the black one, too bad they don’t seem to make those.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I got it from bakergas about a year ago, apparently esab only made a couple hundred of them, it's blue with eagle graphics on it.
I have that exact model helmet. So far enjoying it. I’m using the clear lenses. My head is not that large and it’s comfortable for me. No one sees me welding so it only needs to look cool to me.
Glad to hear you like it. I will tell you, it’s a lot easier on the neck than the Viking. They don’t weigh that much different but using them I get neck pain from the Viking and not the esab. I also like the wide screen vision over the Viking 3350, it’s more like 16.9 widescreen vs 4:3 lol.
Glad you did this unboxing review young man. I had pondered on buying one of these helmets but none were available locally for me to try. The weight as I understand it is 1.8kgs which is way too heavy for me. I also don't like the headgear.
I don’t know where you read that, but it’s wrong. It weighs 644 grams.
This has very good head gear , better than my Miller digital elite .
Hey, why is everyone making something huge out of this yellow tinted visor? Anyone could easily buy yellow tinted protection glasses and wear them under ANY hood. Eyes are easily adapting to that yellow tint and there are no any discomforts.
I am like you with the classic styling. However I am awaiting your review in depth because I can see where a tighter hood might keep the sun (on the rare days we see it!) when it is at your back from washing out the screen. It might also be easier on the hinge assembly because the weight is in closer to your face?? I will be very interested to see the upcoming video(s). Might be interesting to see if the expensive hoods have circuitry to keep the battery from draining when it is installed but not used? I remember AVE had a review on his channel years ago that showed all the hoods were good at preventing arc flash as just the clear lenses (disposable ones) could filter out almost all of the damaging rays even without the shaded one. They also protected the eyes even when they had the slower time to activate. Of course you need the faster reaction times to keep from seeing stars but at least you are not getting your eyes burned as with the ultra cheap sun glasses (although nowadays you don't see too many that don't provide some protection, even among the chinesium). He was responding to the charge that a cheap hood would damage your eyes. Another point was if the battery goes dead does it lose its protective ability. He found they did not.
I remember that video, and that definitely holds up. The hoods all protect your eyes even when they don’t darken. The faster they switch the less eye fatigue you have. Some of the cheaper hoods out there do have an issue when the battery is low they start to slow down on reaction time. This can lead to headaches and seeing stars because the switch time is slow. I know the Lincoln Viking will run just fine until the battery is dead. I have a generic northern tool from 15 years ago that will make you see stars when the battery is low.
From a battery life perspective I know that the Lincoln Viking I have gets 2 months. The digital infinity is 3-4 months from what I have heard. The esab sentinel and the newer model Viking are unknown at this point. Having two batteries in the esab will definitely put its battery live above the Viking 3350s.
Hey Greg, maybe it is too late for a suggestion on the comparison video but here goes. I own a yes welder LYG-M800H and would like to see how it stacks up to the more expensive helmets.
I bought a m500 and will be testing that soon, I may get around to the 800 in the future 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I had to look up the 500. The 800 has a bigger lens and all controls are on the outside, for those who don't know. That was it's main selling point to me was to have controls and selection between weld/cut/grind on the outside of the helmet. I got so tired of trying to reach in between my face and helmet to change functions on my Hobart helmet.
Thanks for the information you provide, Greg. It has helped me increase my knowledge and skill.
Greg I have the A50 which has the regular sized screen. Good helmet and very good hear gear you have to wear it to get it. I used both the yellow outer and clear outer lense,, both are good. And no, grinder dust does not get into the inner screen.
Do you notice the yellow screen being better at certain things? It’s the only hood I have ever used with that as an option.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg The yellow is good, takes a bit of getting used to, however it seems very good in high contrast. Like you can see your chalk makes better, coming to the end of a weld
where you have marked were need to stop.
Yellow is for increased contrast
Can you measure the battery current of the helmets in off and normal operation in the comparison video? The current is measured by putting a meter inline with the batteries. Current is a very good indicator of a good cartridge design and directly tells how long each helmet lasts.
Update:I can send a preassembled 2032 battery with 30 gauge lead wires soldered if you like. All you have to do is attach a multimeter to the wires and you have the current.
Modern MCUs are using microamperes of current in sleep mode, it’s impossible to ACCURATELY measure them with a simple multimeter.
@@kfmutrus This is incorrect. You assume the sleep mode is activated and activated correctly in the micro. If it is, what sleep mode is implemented? Deep, low, low but functional? What peripherals are left running? What's the duty cycle for wakeup? Second, is the sleep mode on while the cartridge is operating for every helmet? Third you left out the power draw of the analog conditioning circuitry for the photodiodes. Overall is it consuming 100nA, 10uA, 100uA? That's a 100 times difference in battery life. Measurement is the only way. Even a cheap $26 Amazon multimeter like a Crenova MS8233D or AstroAI measures μA.
@@jheissjr Guess you assume that the MCU should be woken up exclusively by arc flash? If you are 100% sure that they are not using some schema involving tracking of “user activity” with solar cell and activating different low-power modes or any other wild approach then push for that multimeter solution, no worries about me 🙂
I will screw around with that and see. They use a different battery, 2450. I think the esab would be easy to meter because of how the batteries install. I know the Viking 3350 gets about 2 months max with frequent use. I just replaced the battery on my old Viking today, it might last 2 months with 15-20 hours of on time a week. I know for a fact the miller infinity lasts longer. The esab will be an unknown at this point.
I’m a hobby welder with a video suggestion. I see a lot of videos of people doing what I call dab welding. I wonder about your opinion on that. A cut and etch would be interesting.
Dab welding as in tig where you push filler and pull it out?
No. Sorry I should have been more specific. I’m referring to stick welding. They show a series of “dabs”. They just touch the metal and then pull the electrode away. Repeat over and over again.
@@dannylogan8665 This technique is frequently used on thin metal with 6013 rods when you just couldn’t run a usual bead, tubing with 1/16” wall thickness would be a great example here. Making it consistent is quite hard so no one should expect that it would behave OK under any serious stress.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I think he's meaning what I would call stitch welding, where you butt weld two pieces of thin sheet metal, very common in autobody repair work. You can't run beads on really thin metal, think like 20-22 ga or thinner, because the heat input will warp the crap out out of your body panel you're trying to fix, and be a nightmare to hammer/dolly out the warp.
Yellow lens, is it like shooting glasses you wear on overcast days?..... The look, it reminds me of a French Fire helmet, kind of cool but kind of silly looking, I like the technology, the grind button but I would trash that front lens in a day. would I buy one?(probably not) hell I still wear my old 1970s Jackson pipeline face shield helmet, (never made a video for CZcams maybe I should make a video of it) , Jackson no longer makes it, it definitely ain't Oshit approved, got it in the Navy and she came home with me, replaced the headgear four or five time's since 1977.
Since it's still cold out I wounder how fog proof that ESAB is being wrapped around your face like that 🤔.
So in the comparison video between a bunch of helmets I am doing (out in about a week) I shoot some pics through the yellow lens. As expected it adds a yellow tint, I am not exactly sure how much benefit it is lol. The front lens being in a position where it’s going to get scratched if set down is a big downside to the design. Luckily the face shields are fairly cheap to replace, but a person will definitely be replacing them often due to scratches.
As far as fog resistance the inner cartridge will seal well enough to the hood I think the outer one will stay fog free. I have a feeling the inner lens will stay more fog free than a lot of welding hoods because the mouth area has so much space. My normal Lincoln Viking fogs up fast but the cartridge is almost as flat as where your mouth is, so the warm moisture rich air floats right up to the cartridge immediately.
I’ll take the doo rag if you’re offering!
You’re the first that I read that asked. I will give it to you. Send a email to (makingmistakeswithgreg at gmail dot com) with the title of the email “esab doo rag” and just mention you won it In the email. I will send a response and send get it sent out this week.😀
This helmets badass, if you don’t care for it bossman give it away again. 😂. I seen it at my local shops wall. I think it’s sick looking I wud rock the hell out of that thing mine is super chesemaster and I need a better one bad
Side note, wanna laugh swap the word bullshit for each time Greg says this is interesting in any of his videos
It definitely has excellent vision and it feels light on the head. After spending last week staring downwards for hours a day with the Viking, my neck was hurting. The difference a few ounces makes is significant. The looks are an acquired taste lol. I had a pretty good laugh off camera, because i was thinking I don’t wear a hood to make a fashion statement yet I literally bought a steampunk one to look cool 😅.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg yea I thought it’s pretty funny timing cause the welding shop by my house has like a ton of helmets on the wall and the main one I been liking and looking at was that exact damn one and here comes your video like oh here’s this helmet I’m gonna demo, except I don’t like the looks lol I busted out laughing
Okay so you been stacking up on the highest end hoods lately, and I can’t see a thing with these cheesy ones I got. I tried out my buddy’s older Miller one and it was like night and day better so I’m looking on marketplace and found a sick Miller raptor edition one I think I’m gonna try out.
What do the A and 60 mean?
I don’t think they mean anything, esab differentiates their hoods by 40/50/60 series (higher being better). The A may stand for auto darken, not sure.
I asked ESAB my own question and you are correct. The A and 60 have no meaning. The number just bumps up for each new helmet. Their marketing department must have MBA's from Harvard for such a meaningful naming method.
yellow attenuates blue light
Very interesting. In the comparison video I will make sure to use the yellow and clear screens with arc footage to get an idea of how they look.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg blue arc light has more energy and is more harmful
Good review
Kool shop
Get some sponsors
You can be our new
Horawits. ..
I get daily offers for sponsors (mainly free welders and such) but I really have no desire to do sponsored welder reviews. I will buy stuff with my own money so I can be impartial (and honest lol). The channel isn’t quite funding itself yet but I never made it to make money so things are going just fine 😀
Hey Greg.
Some are making money with U-Tube. I just started my channel for fun and a bit of a diary. I'm following about a dozen characters, mostly of my dream of prospecting. Living in Vegas there's gold all around, sometimes in the casino. Too bad there's no cut of advertising money, we sure get enough of em. Take it easy and keep on posting.
be careful with the grind button, they aren't the most durable
Good to know 👍
I wonder why is there a radiation sign on a back door...
I have a bunch of radiation signs around the shop 😅. Some are the real deal (vintage) and others are replicas. Relics of years past lol.