Ricardo was only trying to show how to install the kit, not which way to install it. Ricardo knows that you will run yours from the outside bottom to the hinge side at the top. Now come on guys, that's the easy part. The hard part is to do all the stuff he did which I would probably wind up crimping my hand with the vice grips and getting a wicked blood blister. Or trip over the drill's cord, or worse lock myself inside my gate, then not be able to go inside for all the tools I forgot. Then the dog would get out and run through the neighborhood, and chase the ice cream truck. All in all, a good installation video of the hardest part of installation. And extremely fast job - I would take about 3 hours to do this.
Also, it would be nice to have a kit that did not have 90 degree corner braces or at least ones where you could bend it a little. Some gates are deliberately angled up or down terrain and may be 89 degrees or whatever. In this case, I would have to make a slit in the metal or something to skew it a little. That might weaken the piece. Or perhaps just make custom braces with the proper angle.
Put a brick or piece of wood under the gate to bring it up to level before installing the kit. This will give you a little bit more room for adjustment in the future cause chances are it will sag a bit more in the years to come.
Rather than pinching the cable with pliers, and damaging it, run it through a thimble. Thimbles are available at most hardware stores or rigging supply outlets.
Explained well, except the direction the wire was installed will actually sag the gate even more. Instead, the wire must be run from the top of the hinge side of the gate to the bottom of the latch side of the gate.
People. If you dont want to screw up your hardware the very first time you use it. DO NOT use tools with teeth on something like a smooth nut. Use the proper tools. Such as a socket, nut driver, box end wrench, even a crescent wrench. The teeth in those pliers will make it to where, nothing else will fit it anymore.
good stuff you did - but doesnt it also cause the gate to bend forward/ or backward ? seems the force action would cause it to buckle inward - or may it also cause it to crush inward / corner to corner ? seems it would make the gate/door out of square too ... opinions ?
Hello, can this be put on the outside facing part of the gate as well. My gate has so much jimmy rigging there seems to be no place for the pieces. Please kindly help,
You installed it wrong... You're supposed to put the top part of the gate tensioner on the hinge side and the bottom part of the tensioner on the latch side... The latch side is always the side that will sag. I know what I'm talking about because I've been doing home renovations for 28 years now!
You installed it incorrectly. A gate door needs diagonal corner to corner compression and diagonal corner to corner tension. A wood brace angled from the hinge side bottom to the latch side top provides compression. A turnbuckle angled from the hinge side top to the latch side bottom provides tension. They should criss-cross. You added tension to the wrong corners.
I believe he put the cable on the wrong ends. The way he set it up it pulls the gate down not up!
Ricardo was only trying to show how to install the kit, not which way to install it. Ricardo knows that you will run yours from the outside bottom to the hinge side at the top. Now come on guys, that's the easy part. The hard part is to do all the stuff he did which I would probably wind up crimping my hand with the vice grips and getting a wicked blood blister. Or trip over the drill's cord, or worse lock myself inside my gate, then not be able to go inside for all the tools I forgot. Then the dog would get out and run through the neighborhood, and chase the ice cream truck. All in all, a good installation video of the hardest part of installation. And extremely fast job - I would take about 3 hours to do this.
Also, it would be nice to have a kit that did not have 90 degree corner braces or at least ones where you could bend it a little. Some gates are deliberately angled up or down terrain and may be 89 degrees or whatever. In this case, I would have to make a slit in the metal or something to skew it a little. That might weaken the piece. Or perhaps just make custom braces with the proper angle.
Or perhaps use an eyehook approach.
Put a brick or piece of wood under the gate to bring it up to level before installing the kit.
This will give you a little bit more room for adjustment in the future cause chances are it will sag a bit more in the years to come.
I thank each and every one of you to take your time and expertise and share with the world
Rather than pinching the cable with pliers, and damaging it, run it through a thimble. Thimbles are available at most hardware stores or rigging supply outlets.
It appears you installed it in the wrong corners? Maybe just a visual flaw, gates sag at the opening latch not at the hinge side.
That second turnbuckle fastener looked like it was torqued to 22.5 ft lbs.... Nice Job!
Thank you so much for this video. I need this kit to repair my gate.
Thank you, thank you..... now I can fix my gate.
Thanks for posting! It made the job easy.
Love that vise-grip trick!
Thank you Ricardo !!
thx. that explained it a bit better than the four pictures on the back of the package (looks like I bought the same exact product)
Explained well, except the direction the wire was installed will actually sag the gate even more. Instead, the wire must be run from the top of the hinge side of the gate to the bottom of the latch side of the gate.
Note that the gate is open while he's installing the wire. When the gate is closed, the wire runs from top hinge side to bottom latch side.
Joe Earls I think you need to watch it again and then edit your comment.
People. If you dont want to screw up your hardware the very first time you use it. DO NOT use tools with teeth on something like a smooth nut. Use the proper tools. Such as a socket, nut driver, box end wrench, even a crescent wrench. The teeth in those pliers will make it to where, nothing else will fit it anymore.
Thank you..a great help
He installed it correctly, he has his gate door swung open to the left, the latch to lock the gate is on the left side.
Thank you! Very helpful and easy to understand!
good stuff you did - but doesnt it also cause the gate to bend forward/ or backward ? seems the force action would cause it to buckle inward - or may it also cause it to crush inward / corner to corner ? seems it would make the gate/door out of square too ... opinions ?
Will this fix a warped wooden gate
Would you mind sharing with me how to purchase the kit?
Cool! Thank you!
Joe- it was 8 stalled as you stated.
Hello, can this be put on the outside facing part of the gate as well. My gate has so much jimmy rigging there seems to be no place for the pieces. Please kindly help,
Read the replies. Yes, he installed it correctly as some have pointed out. The only thing that bothered me was using pliers.
You installed it wrong... You're supposed to put the top part of the gate tensioner on the hinge side and the bottom part of the tensioner on the latch side... The latch side is always the side that will sag. I know what I'm talking about because I've been doing home renovations for 28 years now!
I was thinking the same thing. It’s basic engineering.
good video 5/5
You installed it incorrectly. A gate door needs diagonal corner to corner compression and diagonal corner to corner tension. A wood brace angled from the hinge side bottom to the latch side top provides compression. A turnbuckle angled from the hinge side top to the latch side bottom provides tension. They should criss-cross. You added tension to the wrong corners.
+MatteoTorgy right!
+Rosa Snyder gate is open, so it is correct...