Chemical Strippers vs Heat Gun - Furniture Refinishing
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- čas přidán 21. 10. 2016
- Which stripper and stripper method is best? Stripping Paint, Stain and Varnish from wood. Easily remove paint, old stain & varnish. Step by step instructions on stripping paint & varnish. In this video I cover the first step in the refinishing process. I review the materials you should have on hand before you start, the basic rules of working with both a heat gun and chemical stripper, important safety precautions and a myriad of tips to make your wood stripping experience go faster and smoother.
Visit my website to download my Woodworkers Sandpaper Grit Selection Chart: paulsdiy.solutions/furniture-r...
WHAT YOU SHOULD HAVE ON HAND TO GET STARTED:
Chemical stripper or a Heat Gun
Glass or metal bowl (not aluminum)
Cheapo Applicator Brush
Metal Scrapper
Scrub Brush with stiff bristles
Stiff Tooth Brush
Rubber Gloves
Catch surface with a flat edge (not aluminum)
Synthetic scrubbie pad
Lacquer Thinner or Mineral Spirits (Lacquer Thinner works 10 times better)
Tarp, plastic sheet or cardboard as a surface protector
Respirator (not a dust mask) or an electric fan with fresh air source
Garbage Can with a disposal plastic garbage pail bag
Safety Glasses
RULES:
RULE #1 - Proper ventilation, covered skin and protective eyewear
RULE #2 - Apply chemical stripper in a thick layer, in one direction only, similar to icing a cake
RULE #3 - Once applied leave it alone. It forms an air-tight bond enhancing its chemical actions
RULE #4 - Follow the manufacturers recommendation for reaction time and ambient air temperature
RULE #5 - The top coat should come off easy. Do not scrap or force removal
RULE #6 - Reapply a second and third coat, if needed
RULE #7 - For stubborn or on raised, carved or curved areas use a stiff bristled scrub brush
RULE #8 - To avoid resistance to staining or clear coating rinse project well with Lacquer Thinner
RULE #9 - Let DRY FOR 7-10 DAYS before the next step - SANDING
TIPS:
Splashes happen, if chemical stripper comes in contact with any body surface immediately flush with tap water.
It’s best to work outdoors. If this is not an option use a fan forcing vapors away from you through an open window. If indoors use a quality respirator approved for vapors. DUST MASKS DO NOT QUALIFY!!
A dull metal or plastic scrapper works best and prevents accidently gouging surfaces.
I do not recommend some of the new strippers that can be rinsed in water. Water and wood don’t do well together. Mineral spirits and lacquer thinners evaporate almost immediately and do not penetrate deep into the wood. Lacquer thinner works 10 times faster than mineral spirits.
Use throw away brushes for applying chemical strippers.
Be aware while Heat Guns are more eco-friendly but they are slow and tedious on flat surfaces and extremely difficult to use on raised, carved and rounded surfaces.
Check your local laws for proper waste disposal.
Some level of sanding will be required after stripping. Sanding is done in steps and most finishers sand to 180 or 220 GRIT.
Sand paper is measured in grits.
40-80 grit is COARSE (only used to level an uneven surface or remove old finishes)
120-180 grit is MEDIUM (start here with new wood)
220-300 grit is FINE (I typically finish my sanding with a 220 grit)
Above #400 grit is EXTRA FINE (High grits like these are used for polishing)
To download a free PDF version of my Stripper Tips, Rules and Paraphernalia Cheat Sheets visit my website at:
www.paulsDIY.solutions
I have a complete Wood Finishing and Refinishing Series:
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Nevermind the comments about how much you're talking or the way you're talking! I appreciate how detailed you were and that you explained the process. I also picked up some tips on poly off a reply you left to a comment on here that will help me a lot, as i have had an issue with fogginess after poly on occasion. I'm almost 30 years old, and i am just now trying to learn woodworking, and techniques for restoring/refinishing and these videos are a lifesaver. Thank you!
Hey Cassie. Welcome to the woodworkers club. You realize it becomes an addiction, right? So many cool tools out there!! Glad to be a part of your journey. best . . .paul
When he said he has a fan in the back and the camera turned, I was sure it would reveal a person in tears waiting to get an autograph.
Hey Since. LOL. Not too many of those ion my shop!! best . . . paul
Thank you, thank you, and finally . . . thank you. I've searched many youtube videos, trying to trouble shoot our 133 year old wood exterior door (which we found at the back of an old garden shed, behind our 133 yr old house, after buying the house). The door has at least five layers/colours of paint on it, plus the base varnish, to no avail. We tried paint stripper which only made the paint "chewy", stretchy and gummy. Just like another one of your viewers with the exact same problem (old door as well), we read some of your tips and replies and finally found the help we need with said door. Again, thank you Paul, for the direct and very thorough information.
Hey Debbie. My pleasure but here's a snag. Since that video was released the EPA has placed a ban on methyl chloride based strippers. The stuff that's out there now is the problem. It's just not strong enough to get things done. Commercial strip shops still have access to it though, so my recommendation has been to let them do the stripping and you do the refinishing. The other option is a heat gun. While it's slow it will do the job. Sorry wish I had better news. Happy New Year . . . paul
Hi Paul, Thank you for your tips, attention to detail, and your thorough response to other viewers questions as I learned a lot and found your video was one of the best explained and most helpful. My grandfather was a furniture refinisher (coincidentally his name was Paul too), and my father was a finish trimmed carpenter who supplied me with lots of tools and support for my projects. However, since my father passed I have no one to go to with questions. I am glad I found you as I will be visiting your videos and website for assistance since I have quit a few projects that need the paint stripped off.
Hi Loretta. I'm glad you found me too. Sounds like wood is in your blood. My grandfather was a butcher who came home to his hobby woodworking. Way too much respect for that generation as they had very few power tools. They were the REAL CRAFTSMEN and WOMEN!! best . . . paul
Thank you! One of the better paint stripping tutorial videos I've seen. Matter of fact with side information to keep in mind.
Thanx jynclr. best . . . paul
I have been searching for a video about how to remove the paint from the small detailed pieces. Thank you! Great video.
Hi Andrea. You're welcome. A good stiff bristle brush really works well. If your work is really small a stiff tooth brush also becomes useful. Just be really careful not to splash. best . . . paul
Thank you!! Exactly what I needed from an expert home woodworker!!
Your welcome Sara.
Thank you very much for taking the time to explain the difference of various paint-removal methods.
I had a project (actually several of them) that's been put off indefinitely because I couldn't take all those old latex paint off effectively, and my time for projects is limited.
I tried one of those "eco-friendly" paint stripper before.
It was slow and costly, and it didn't do the job cause it dried out...
I was thinking about getting a heat gun, but after watching your video, I'm glad I didn't rush to get one.
I will go with the conventional chemical method cause by far, looks like it's the most effective way.
Hey Nicole. Yeah heat guns are waaaaaay to slow. You'll be amazed at the difference between eco-friendly and methyl chloride based strippers!! That said they are strong chemically so be sure you use good eye and skin protection and proper ventilation. Let me know what you think when done. best . . . paul
Love the lack of small talk and plethora of information . I felt like you made this video to answer every question I personally asked. Bravo. Will subscribe. I feel like the things your involved with and put your time into actually matter and have many years of use , today, and for a long time to come. Subscribed.
Thanx Deanna. Happy to be of some help. best . . . paul
Great job on the preparation and list of tools and supplies
Hey 1airforce. Thanx for the positive feedback. best . . . paul
Good video. I'm refinishing a 100 year old house and use the same process for detailed woodwork, with a couple differences. First, I use Citristrip. After it's applied, I cover it with plastic wrap and let it set overnight. That takes off multiple layers. The other difference is that when I use the brush with hard plastic bristles, I'll pour mineral spirits on the wood before scrubbing. This makes a HUGE difference. Afterwards I'll use an air compressor to blow off excess liquid that paper towels don't absorb.
Thanx Alan. I'll give it a try. In the past I have not been a fan of organic strippers. best . . . paul
Excellent Paul! I really learned a lot from your very comprehensive and illuminating video.
Hey XRP. Gald to be of some help. Thanx for the feedback. best . . . paul
Thanks for sharing your knowledge & expertise. I've been stripping door casings & architraves (indoors) using a sander and a heat gun at times and it is very tedious and time consuming. I have been avoiding chemical strippers but I'll give it a go after watching this!
Hi Pat. I just posted a new article on Furniture Refinishing on my website. Take a look at the quote I included from one of my viewers Melissa. She redid an oak pedestal table and after a lot of frustration ended up using a methyl chloride based stripper. Follow all my precautions and in the end you'll be amazed at the ease. Please follow up with me as I'll anxious to hear what you think. The article is entitled A Step by Step Guide to Refinishing Furniture and Finishing Furniture. Here's the link to the article paulsdiy.solutions/2019/07/16/a-step-by-step-guide-to-refinishing-furniture-or-finishing-furniture/ best . . . paul
Thanks for the simple easy instructions
You're welcome Ellen. Thanx for your feedback. best . . . paul
First video of yours I've watched, and I'm subscribing! Very useful and informative. You cover everything I needed to know.
Thnax Beth. Glad I could be of some help! best . . . paul
Great detail in your presentation. Impressive!
Thanx James.
Power watching all your videos and looking forward to printing your pdf's. Thank you for taking the time to help us all out :)
I was happy to run across your videos about refinishing wood. Years ago I was busy stripping the "antiquing" my mother did, probably in the '60s. A lovely old dining room set plus every other wooden dresser she could. It must have been the rage back then. Like chalk painting is today?? I never had the patience to use the citrus strippers-took too long and didn't work on the old paint and lacquer underneath. My go-to stripper was Dad's Easy Spray. Not even sure if it's still available today. I didn't use the sprayer that came with it-just old brushes, putty knives of various sizes & steel wool. Old toothbrushes and picks for the joints and fine work. I found some small brass brushes work also for detail work. Mineral spirits to clean up. I stripped a dining room table and matching buffet right where they sat (heavy gage plastic underneath). Both had intricately carved legs. The gunk I've scraped off old mantle pieces and chairs was like black tar. I don't like to let stripper sit too long in joints because I don't know what it might do to the glue (hide??) It's been too long since I've worked with refinishing and I'm looking forward to your video on staining. I have always prefer to rub stain on because I am terrible with brushing. That's why I've always used gel stain and Tung oil at the end. I'm good at the removing--not so good at the replacing!
Hey Karen. You are right about antiquing paint. I can tell you it was late 60', early 70's. I was in college and a newly wed. I was a desk slob (still keep a messy desk to this day), my new bride kept yelling at me (she still does, LOL) so I went out and bought a roll top desk at a second hand store. The brass tag said it was sold by Montgomery Ward and manufactured in the 1920's. My wife hated it so she antiqued it white that was 1969. I think my sister antiqued the chest in the video. Hope chest turned out well. Wish I still had that roll top though. PS Tung oil is one of my favorite finishes. thanx for the feedback very interesting. best . . . paul
Very educated complete explanations. Thanks for the tips 🌷
You're welcome. Thanx for the feedback.
Great job and a beautiful piece.
Thanx KTT. best . . . paul
Thanks for sharing your experience. Invaluable!
Hey Ian, my pleasure!! I like to tinker and tinkering usually means trouble but CZcamsrs have saved my butt so many times. Happy to be a part of the learning and sharing community. best . . . paul
Great stuff! Have been enjoying your how to's for a few weeks now.
Thanx Christina. Glad to be of some help along your journey. best . . . paul
Very nice video with great safety recommendations.Fan is such a great idea as is the warning not to just use the thin gloves with chemical stripper, also the Varnish remover and dental pic. Thanks! I am struggling with my grandmother's old painted, multi painted table and now will go at it with better knowledge.
Hey Private. Yep methyl chloride is pretty serious stuff. Bad for the skin and the lungs. In my opinion the "organic strippers" don't measure up to the task. Thanx for the re-iteration. I hope all viewers consider the importance of precautions when working with strippers. best . . . paul
I have wanting to strip and refinish my old wooden front door for a while now. Many years of God knows what under there but now I have gotten the inspiration I needed! Thanks for the descriptions between the chemical strippers too, I wasn’t sure what I needed. Your information is clear and easy to understand. Thanks so much! I am a subscriber now! 👍🏼
Hi Shanda. Glad to be of some help. Since that video the EPA has banned the retail sale of methyl chloride based stripper. It's a harder process now the new strippers are not as potent but not impossible. best . . . paul
paulsDIYsolutions Hello again! Thank you so much for the response! After going to the store I did find out that that stuff was banned so I got the most aggressive thing I could find and coat after coat (globing the stuff on) we are still not down to bare wood. It is coming off so slowly and is like chewing gum. I am frustrated beyond belief and am in tears at this point. It’s a six panel solid door(not sure of wood) and is 80 years old. My husband and I have refinished four houses of hardwood floors so we aren’t afraid but this is a whole different ballgame. A friend suggested walnut blasting? Have no clue at this point. Any suggestions or help would be much appreciated and I thank you in advance!
Hey Shanda. Yeah I feel for you. Methyl chloride based strippers have been around for years. My first experience with it was 1972 (my first woodworking project) stripping my kitchen cabinets. The EPA (or some gov agency) has determines its dangerous (whatever). I have a friend who has a commercial refinishing shop they can still get the good stuff. I would suggest you visit your local strip shop and have them take it down to bare wood for you. The other option is to use lye (sodium hydroxide) but be really careful. It has to be done outdoors and it is highly caustic so again be really careful. best . . . paul
paulsDIYsolutions thank you so much for your timely responses! I think I may have to take it somewhere at this point. Love your videos! Thanks again!! 😊
@@shandabarrera6877 Thanx Shanda. Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul
This video was so detailed and so helpful! Thank you for taking the effort to make and post this video to help others :)
Hi Nicole. My pleasure. Thanx for your feedback (keeps me going). best . . . paul
Thank you this was very helpful!! We are redoing our kitchen cabinets!
Hey Dreaming. That was my first woodworking project (51 years ago - yesh!!). While there is still a lot of useful info in that video there is one major change. Last year the EPA banned methyl chloride strippers. The new ones are weak by comparison! Just be prepared what was fairly easy (although messy) is now hard and messier. Commercial strip shops still have access to the good stuff. You might want to consider bringing in a reputable stripper to do the dirty work and you do the finishing. best . . . paul
Super thorough and informative. Thank you
Thanx Spend. Glad to be a small part of your woodworking journey. best . . . paul
THANK YOU! Loved your video, very detailed in explaining different items and why, why not or when you might use these items. Your video popped up after another video I was watching about "Removing Paint with Heat Gun" which she stated she preferred, so Im so glad I continued to watch your video as you provided alot of additional information and safety precautions, which I truly appreciate. FYI: I took notes and Subcribed to your channel. Yes, realized at the end you provide PDF Instructions which is amazing.
👍
Great job on this, it turned out really Ummm. Great!
Awesome Josiahsdays!
Great result & thanks so much for your advice, invaluable.
Thanx Phoenix. Strippers have changed recently thanx to new EPA guidelines. The new strippers are not as strong. best . . . paul
It’s a beautiful piece .. always worth doing to save
Thanx Allison.
Great information video buddy. Best I have seen! Keep up the great work!
thanx rbdenham. appreciate the feedback. best . . . paul
15hrs wow great work and awesome video.
Thanx Summer.
Well done Sir, really nice to see. I know now how to proceed with my classical guitar. Will strip a heavy lacquer, steam out a few indentations - no fibers sheared it seems - and then French polish the cedar soundboard. Gonna be lovely - we shall hope :)
Hey H Ni. Last year the EPA banned methyl chloride based strippers. The new ones work but take a lot more effort and time. Sounds like a nice project. French polish is definitely the way to go for retaining sound quality. best . . . paul
Hey H Ni. Last year the EPA banned methyl chloride based strippers. The new ones work but take a lot more effort and time. Sounds like a nice project. French polish is definitely the way to go for retaining sound quality. best . . . paul
Very professional thank you!
Thanx Jarrod. Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul
Oops! Think im a bit late watching this. June 2020 🤪😇😁 love watching paint bubble and stripped, just did an old oak dresser with alot of Nicotine and heavy dark stained, messy removing it but so satisfying to see transformation. Cheryl in UK, on lockdown at moment and im going stir crazy xxx
Hey Cheryl. We're pretty much quarantined here on this side of the pond as well. Good time to be doing projects that we put off because of life!! Glad to hear it turned out. A lot of work removing old paint and varnish but very rewarding when it's over. Thanx for communicating, always fun to hear from other countries. best . . . paul
Great Information , thanks so much!
Ur welcome LoveLife. Glad to be of some help. best . . . paul
very good presentation and info.
thatnx William.
Thank you, most appreciated!
You're welcome Michael. Thanx for your feedback. best . . . paul
Thanks for making this. Subscribed.
Hey Ollie. My pleasure. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for the feedback. best . . . paul
Pretty awesome job!
Thanx Jose. Hope it helped and provided some info you can use. best . . . paul
Thanks for the dental prop idea! I think it is a great idea to go into the fine tight area!
Hey Harold. Why should dentists have all the good tools??? best . . . paul
Nice job! Thank you.
Thank you Cuarajhy. best . . . paul
Thanks for this very helpful
Glad to be of some help Alexander. Thanx for the feedback. best . . . paul
Very helpful, thank you
You're welcome Tim. Thanx for your feedback. best . . . paul
Paul, you are just the person I have been looking for. Too bad you don't live next door. I have 2 bedside chests of drawers with lots of varied levels of edging and decoration. These were bought by my parents about 40 yrs. ago and are beautifully made and well worth the time to strip them and repaint. They are painted with 3 coordinating shades of greenish grey w.gold paint on the small piping (I'm sure that's not the correct term) around the inner bevel of each drawer and 12 round sm. wooden buttons between the 2 top drawers & the 2 bottom drawers. I don't know what the wood is underneath so my plan is to paint it 2 shades of light grey w/a copper color on the piping. I noticed that you did very little sanding or did I space out? Loved your video. Appreciated your attention to detail. I actually feel I can do this. Thanks for sharing your expertise. If I get jammed up (since I am a beginner) may I contact you again? Thanks so much.
Hey Chris. You have to sand a little because the stripper plays havoc with the woods grain. I'm here for your questions. best . . . paul
Thank you for the video.
Ur welcome Innovative.
Hello Paul. Just amazed by your work and knowledge. Have a question- how to strip the old paint from the gazebo?
Hey Sveta. Painters on outdoor projects might use a lye based stripper but it's pretty dangerous stuff to humans. A lot depends on the condition. Because of the size and detail (if it were me) I would probably scrape loose paint, then sand and then repaint. best . . .paul
Thank you for the great video. I’m refinishing a raised panel door. I wanted to see how to get into those tight little corners and joints. I would like to how you sand in the cracks and crevices.
Hey Michael. Yeah done a few raised panel entry doors and cabinet doors. They are a pain!! I mentioned in that video that I prefer to work with new wood vs stripping old wood because of the tediousness of the task. The big issue is the panel's cross cut grains. You can never be perfect. I recommend foam sanding blocks, wrapping and stapling papers to an appropriate sized sanding block (typically thickness planed in your shop) and/or just free-styling with you fingers. No easy way sorry. best . . . paul
Thanks Paul. Well I got side one done. And it is a pain with the cross grains. Also when paint gets into holes where someone hung something on the door. I used a heat gun and scraped an peeled paint off. Then I came back and used stripper to get to the bare wood. Then sand hell out of it. Now I get to do all that over again on the other side. Thanks again for your great video.
I gave a like just for the useful description
Thanks for that!
Excellent advice.., used your tips all day today,,subbed and thumbed..
Hey yachtcarpenter. Glad to be of some help. Are you really a yacht carpenter? What a skill set!! best . . . paul
Yea man a real yacht carpenter check out my channel for my latest offering and sub if you want to see what I am working on now. Standing by..
Went to your channel. Really nice work!!
Thanks Paul..
wow great job
Thanx Duncan. Glad to be of some help. Thanx for the feedback. best . . . paul
Hey thanks for the video. Helpful information. Only complaint is that you can't see what kind of strippers you are using from the top angle
Hey John. I try not to promote particular brands. I tend to buy whatever is on sale. The problem you are going to have is finding a strong one these days. The federal gov took methyl chloride brands off the commercial market last spring. Only strip shops can get them now. I still have a small supply left and I haven't had the need to experiment with the newer non methyl chloride strippers yet. best . . . paul
Great info, and what a beautiful piece. Why anyone painted it is a mystery.
Hey Anton. I know, right? There was a popular trend in the late 60's to "antique" furniture. It was a process off painting and then highlighting certain areas with a darker color. The trend now seems to be milk paint. Anyway we brought it back!! best . . . paul
I'm gonna be cleaning some finished metals and steel using klean strip paint thinner......u seem like a man of alot of knowledge can I use those gloves that the doctors have in their office for protection or do I need to buy some special gloves?
Hey Oscar. I use latex gloves all the time for a lot of things but with strong chemicals I go heavy duty. Chemical strippers are powerful stuff. I would invest in a good pair of heavy rubber gloves. best . . . paul
Very much appreciate your tutorials Paul. I have a question about refinishing the surface of a nitrocellulose furniture surface that is pitted (hair spray I assume) I would like to remove the lacquer without affecting the original stain and replace it with a semi gloss polyurethane finish. Can I do this by sanding or stripping, following your techniques or is there something I need to know specific to removing and replacing these different finishes?
Thank you again for your valuable resource
A grateful subscriber
T Reich
Hi Tom. I always use a stripper to remove old paint and varnish. With the new EPA guidelines on strippers they have become less effective. Methyl chloride based strippers are only available to commercial stripping companies. The newer strippers might be what you need since the old strippers not only cut through the varnish but removed a lot of stain as well. Not sure since I haven't yet tried the newer non-methyl chloride based strippers. A friend told me about using lacquer thinner/denatured alcohol mixture. I found something very similar online homeguides.sfgate.com/removing-lacquer-finishes-42207.html
Not sure how effective it is? I always suggest experimenting on a hidden area first. Could you plaese let me know how things go so I can advise others with similar issues. thanx. best . . . paul
Hi Paul! I'm working on a fireplace mantel in my 1899 house. I used Citristrip, and it worked but not as much as I'd like and I think it is staining the wood. There are some dark greasy spots where it directly touched the wood on a second or third application. I just ordered a heat gun and I'm going to give that a go. Any other suggestions? It has a lot of detailed ornamentation like your mom's hope chest. Thanks so much!
Hey Carrie. Last year the EPA banned the use of methyl chloride based strippers (the good stuff). The new strippers are just terrible. A heat gun will work, although slow and tedious. I've been advising viewers to call a local strip shop as they still have access to the old stripper. I'm sorry Carrie but I don't know a lot about the replacements. best . . . paul
Useful tips, thanks. You said it’s long and tedious stripping it with sandpaper but did you mean by hand or with electric sander like the Mirka? Just curious.
Hey Olzee. Even with the better papers and mechanical snaders it's a lot slower and more physical than using chemicals. best . . . paul
What should i use to get brake fluid, power steering fluid, motor oil, and i think antifreeze set in stains out of a wood table top.
Or rather is there any type of killz for bare sanded wood.
Hey Holly-jo. Are all those on the table for breakfast or dinner? Kilz seals them in but doesn't remove them. Shellac will do the smae for bare wood. (But it doesn't remove them). Unfortunately I don't know of anything that will aide in their removal. best . . . paul
In just as inspired to hit the gym as I am to fix up my Ma's old chair and the wife's rocking chair. Great video
Hey Diablo. The gyms a lot more fum!! best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Yes sir. Got a couple open wounds after a jigsaw cutter incident so I'll have to stick to video watching a few more days!
Hi Paul ... thank you so much for posting the video. Did you use jasco varnish & stain remover ? thank you
Hi Danny. You are welcome. I did not. Good products but I just used a big box store brand methyl chloride based stripper. best . . . paul
thank you Paul :) Have a great day :)
Thank you "Teacher "I now have the confidence to do my door.
Hi Lorraine. I've done many doors (in my youth). Not fun but everyone liked the end product. best . . . paul
Hi Paul, Thanks so much for your video. I have removed most of the paint from a bookcase via a heat gun, and am now working on sanding off the remaining. However, some of the paint is in scratches that are deeper than I want to sand down to. I would like to fill the scratches with wood filler. Do I need to completely remove the paint from inside the scratches before doing this, or can I just put the wood filler over the paint?
Hey defarrell. It sounds like you are going to either leave the bookcase natural or stain it. Be careful wood filer never matches the real wood. It will show. Id your bookcase is solid wood I would sand into the gouges. That's different from leveling. Leveling means an even surface. Sanding into would leave a dip but that will be less obvious than wood filler. If you want to go the wood filler route you don't have to remove the paint. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks so much!
Ur welcome
Paul, how do you clean the nylon bristle brush as you work on the fine carving? Someone else asked this question but you didn't answer it.
Hey Magiktunes. I assume you are talking about a brush used for stripping old finishes. Rule # 1 - don't spend a lot of money. Rule #2 - there's a time to invest time and energy in cleaning brushes and a time to buy throw away brushes. If it doesn't clean easily with lacquer thinner it's time to just toss it. best . . . paul
Hello Paul, I found you looking for information on how to strip 150 years of paint off of the woodwork in my home. The owners over the years have done quite the number on this old Victorian house. What do you recommend to remove the old paint and varnish? Thank you
Hey Kristen. The charm of an old house redone is magnificent. This sounds like it's going to be a BIG job! The short answer is a combination of a heat gun and a methyl chloride-based chemical stripper. If it's at all in the budget I would consider hiring professionals. It should warrant pushing the pencil in an effort to estimate your time and the cost of materials for DIY vs refinishing vs replacement. I only suggest that because paint gets in every little crack and crevice and becomes tedious at best to remove. At 150 years, you'll find the wood beneath has dried, cracked and gapped which makes it hard to properly restore. That said, if there are enough flat surfaces a heat gun is the neatest and least expensive of the choices. Otherwise a chemical stripper containing methyl chloride will work the fastest, however it is both expensive and messy. Be very careful though, working overhead with chemicals or heat is dangerous, as is inhaling the vapors both emit. At that age there is more than likely lead in one or more of the paint layers which posses another health risk. Lead paint was common, not so many years ago. Proper ventilation, vapor approved respirators, protective clothing, eye protection, etc., are a must!! I did what you're about to do in my first house (personally used a combination of a heat gun and strippers), hired professionals in my second (some stripping and some replacement) and made and replaced all the trim and cabinetry myself in my current home. Sorry Kristen, I like to keep my posts positive. I can only guess how sorry you are you asked. Please keep me posted as you proceed. best . . . paul
Hello I am new to your channel! I am currently stripping my wooden front door and I am stuck. I have gotten to the last coat on my door and I have sanded/chemically stripped all day yesterday. The last coat seems to be an oil paint the good news is I am seeing the wood 🪵 grain so I am getting further than where I was. I plan on staining the door once it’s clean of paint.
What is the best thing to use on this kind of paint? More stripper? I really wanted to see if I could sand the rest but it’s not budging 🤦🏼♀️ thank you 😊
Hey Jenny. The problem you are having is the new strippers. The EPA banned methyl chloride based strippers last year and the new stuff doesn't come close. All I can tell you is to keep working at it. If push comes to shove commercial strip shops still have access to the good strippers. They will charge you to do it but it might be cheaper in the long run. You can take over once they've cleaned it up. Sorry but our government feels it needs to protect us!! REALLY?? best . . . paul
Can you please tell me if this technique is good if I have a vintage headboard with VENEER, HOW DO I STRIP AND SAND VENEER THAT HAS NEVER BEEN SANDED AND HAS MILK PAINT, it’s a beautiful bed and I don’t want to damage it. Also what is the name of the striper that you used.
Hey Bella. Here's the problem if you live in the U.S. The EPA banned methyl chloride strippers last year. The new strippers are weak and ineffective. Commercial strip shops still have access to the stronger stripper. I would recommend you take it in and let them strip it for you. You can then finish it yourself. best . . . paul
Hello Paul, I received a beautiful door as a gift when we got all of our windows replaced. The door came to us already painted in White however we wanted a red color instead. I (NOT thinking at the time) decided to buy latex paint and just spray paint the door on top of the paint already on the door. After about 6 months to 1 year later we noticed that the paint started bubbling or lifting I should say.. now the door looks horrible and we want to fix the issue, so my question is if we were to use a paint stripper, would it also lift the white paint underneath? I am not sure what type of paint was used for the White. And would it be okay to use paint other than latex paint and just paint on top of the White? hope that I did not confuse you. Thank in advance.
Hey Erwin. Piant stripper is non-selective so yes might remove all layers. Since you will be repainting it this should not ne a problem. The newer paint diod not bond the the original layer and that's why you are having issues. I'm assuming that tyhe door is an exterior door. I also assume you used an exterior grade paint. Without knowing some of those details iot's hard to say where you went wring but that's not important now. I would strip as much as needed to get to a smooth surface with all the newer paint removed (since it isn't adhering it needs to come off or it may cause problems on the next coat). Once done sand with a 100-120 grit paper to roughen the surface and give your new paint a place to gripp onto. Then wash with a strong soap like TSP to remove any oils or other contaminents. Let dry thoroughly. If there is any grain raise (raw wood areas only) do a light sand with the same grit sandpaper. Buy a high grade exterior paint ( I personally like Benjamin Moore products) and a good brush. You should be fine following this procedure. best . . . paul
super video!!
Thanx Moalt.
Great video, I subscribed. I’m refinishing couple end tables staining tops and painting legs. One legs are stained and one they are painted. Because I am painting a dark ebony almost black, do I need to remove all the paint or can I just sand down with few grits to remove some and anything loose then apply paint? And for the one with stained legs before painting do I need to strip, and sand?
Hey Josh. You do not need to bring either set of legs down to bare wood. I would do a fast wash with a strong soap solution like trisodium phospahte (TSP) to remove any waxes or oils. Then a quick sand is always recommended. It will help remove any contaminants that might react with the paint and provide a little roughness for the paint to grab onto. best . . . paul
Thanks, do you happen to know of anywhere in Canada that might sell TSP? I have a hard time finding a methyl chloride based stripper at any store in Ottawa area. Looking online they only seem to have bio strippers at Home Depot, Lowe’s, Rona etc. Maybe my best bet is to just buy some on Amazon. You said any brand on sale, but any specific brands that you know work and are methyl based so I can search online to buy. Could use it for the other top. First one I sanded it all and took awhile. Or are there any non methyl based ones you know of that work almost as well? Thanks for the gelp
Hi Josh. Yeah a lot of areas are ecologically green these days. The phosphates in TSP are considered water pollutants. Try this mixture in place of TSP: 2 oz borax, 1 tsp ammonia and 1/2 gallon of water. Stir until all borax is dissolved. Don't waste your time or money on organic strippers. Any methyl chloride based stripper is fine. I think the last brand I bought was Klean Strip. best .. paul
paulsDIYsolutions thanks for that info good to know, but I found TSP no problem they had lots of options for it in first hardware store I went to in paint department. As for strippers the methyl chloride seems to now be nowhere to be found. All stores stopped carrying it after someone dies in California because they used it in garage and stayed in there for 8hrs with no last or ventilation is what paint lady at Rona said. That’s why you read the label. Best I could find that apparently works well is circa furniture stripper. Doesn’t claim to be bio friendly. Doesn’t say it has methyl chloride, but has dichlormethane and methanol. I’m no chemist but sound similar. What do you think? I’m going to try it right now so I’ll let you know how it works. It’s made in Canada tho so prob not sold in the US
paulsDIYsolutions and the other one I got is the gel one it’s Circa 1850 heavy body paint & varnish remover. Guess they have been around since 1850
Great video Paul! What stripper do you recommend now that you can't get methylene chloride based strippers? I find the eco friendly strippers are not so time and effort friendly. Thanks
Hey arniem. Here's the problem. Last year the EPA banned methyl chloride strippers. The new strippers are weak and extremely messy. I will be experimenting this winter with some of the newer strippers but at this time I am recommending that you find a local commercial stripper and let them do the work. They still have access to the god stuff. It will probably be worth it and my guess is by the time you're done not much more in cost. best . . . paul
I am a bit upset that you can not get real strippers anymore. I have a house full of 80 year old doors and trim I was hoping to reuse and I have gone through one whole jug of citristrip on just ONE side of one door. It is also one big gooey mess. I am considering a quick sanding and just repainting over everything.
Paul, any best alternatives now that methyl chloride is banned? Do professionals still have access to that?
Hey Kevin. Yeah they took consumer brands off the market. Commercially it is still available to professional refinishers. I have been fooling with alternatives and quite honestly they pale in comparison. This si a case of everyone paying a price for the few that don't follow safety precautions. best . . . paul
If you can strip that chest, with all of it's carvings, then I feel confident to strip off my much simpler door. Thanks for all. of the tips.
Hey vidiot. The problem is since I made that video most states have banned methyl chloride based strippers. The new stuff STINKS. Commercial strip shops in my state still have access to it! best . . . paul
What type/brand of stripper did you use for this piece? I have an antique dresser I am stripping and it has lead paint.
Hey James. Not sure it was so long ago. Think it was purchased at Home Depot. Good ventilation is key lead will emit fumes. best . . . paul
I know you normally create your own projects, but I'd like your opinion if possible. Im reusing my childhood Princess Furniture that's about 48 years old yet still in great condition, so I'm thinking about painting the furniture or at least repaint the trim.
I'm a little intimidated as there's six pieces which are the standard off-white with streaks of gold and trimmed in gold. I was thinking the easiest thing would be to just change the trim color, yet it will have to match up with the Off-White and Gold, yet the only color seems to be black, maybe in matte to make it pop or the basic off-white or standard gold trim which seems dated. I like dark and rich jewel tone colors, yet that might be too much.
As I stated above, I'd like your opinion about painting the trim and in what color. All ideas are welcome. Thank You for ready mini book. 😁
Hey Robin. Unfortunately I am not much of a paint expert (except walls). I would take a piece to your local dedicated paint store where you can get an experts advice (not the paint department at a big box home improvement store). They should be able to guide you. My guess is you lay down your accent color full strength and then apply a thinned primary color and wipe off excess so the accent color pops through. What ever you do: Don't trust my opinion on this!! Sorry wish I could be of more help. best . . . paul
Thanks
You're welcome Vitaliy. The problem we have now though is the EPA banned methyl chloride based strippers last year. The newer stuff is a very far cry from methyl chloride. best . . . paul
I want to repaint basement stairs in my home which were probably painted in the 70s. This is the final step in completing a basement remodel. The stairs have a few dents from carrying building products up/down. How do I proceed? Do I need to totally remove all of the old paint before repainting?
Hey Darion. I wouldn't remove any paint. Give it a good sanding with a 120 grit paper and use a good paint designed for floors and stairs. W all paint will not be durable. best . . .paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks you. Appreciate your prompt response.
Hey there Paul! This video is just what I needed to see. I have my Grandmother's 54 in round Oak Dining Table with three (3) leaves. It's going to be major project for me as the table and pedestal have ornamental carving like 3/8 in beads around the skirt and appliques on the pedestal, I really think the stiff brush is the technique I was looking for. Could you tell me how you clean the stiff bristle brush as you're working the old finish off and is the brush suitable with the heat gun process since chemical stripping is no longer a good option. Also, do you have or know of video instruction for post stripping sanding of this type of ornamental carving?
Hey Staley. An oak pedestal table is a great piece. It was one of my very early projects. I'm going to make a recommendation that is somewhat counter to DIY. While the EPA has banned methyl chloride based strippers for use by the general public in my state commercial strip shops can still use it. If I were you I would find a commercial place near you and let them do the finish removal. I would then do the rest myself. As I mentioned in the video a heat gun takes forever and the new strippers are not worth a lick of salt! A vintage oak table has value and is worth the investment. Just my opinion. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks for the reply, Paul! I value your opinion and will see about that. The table has been in the family for over 100 years. I'm 67 and remember Holiday Dinners with 14 family members sitting at it fully extended since I was a child and also hearing my grandmother telling it's history. It's valuable enough that I brought it across the continent 30 + years ago. It needs TLC.
This is a perfect restoration project! Furniture in those days was built from solid wood (not press-board). Most were oak. The reason I would personally not let a restoration shop do the whole job is most spray lacquer. Not a bad finish but on a pedestal table of that age I would be tempted to use Polymerized Tung Oil. Wood of that vintage is very dry and the oil will fill it's pores and make the table pop. If you want a little more protection you could combine polymerized tung oil with spar varnish (50/50) and wipe it on in thin coats (3 coats total). The other part of finishing it yourself is it's another nice memory added to that table!! best . . . paul
What do you use to clean the brushes and scrapers? I used a tooth brush on a table I'm stripping, I'm not done getting the paint off the detailing of the table though. Not sure how to clean the tooth brush, paint brushes, or hand srubber
Hi Edwina. Lacquer is by far the best to clean tools and stripped surface.
Thanks
Hi Paul, these videos are so informative, thank you. I've just started stripping paint off a chest of drawers my parents have had since the early 1970s. I suspect they are jarrah veneer, perhaps teak veneer (just finding out where they bought them as they moved around a bit). They have timber drawer pulls, and it has been hard to remove the paint from inside them, in the curved parts. I applied extra stripper and then varnish remover to try to remove and now those areas are a bit paler than the rest of the front of the drawer. Will this even out to a more constant colour when I sand and then oil?
Oh and I'm in Australia!
Hey CL. Hard to say. Chances are they are different wood. Was the set painted originally? best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Thanks. No, my mother asked my dad to paint them in her pregnancy (!)> It's the same timber, just that I applied more product and brushing to those areas. Thanks
@@clusher7077 Hey CL. I think you'll be okay. After the paint's removed and the wood has dried it should assume it's natural coloration. best . . . paul
Hey Paul, thanks for making these videos. I'm researching how to strip paint from wood because I'd like to restore the wood trim in my living room and foyer back to it's original glory...the previous owners painted it white. At what time does it become critical to wash the stripped wood with laquer thinner? I'm wondering if the wood becomes damaged if we don't clean it right away post stripping. Thanks in advance for the advice!! P.S. I'm also in the Chicago area!
Het Jenny. I would wash after stripping immediately. This the gunk won't gety caked and the pores will still be open. It won't get damaged it's just faster and easier if it doesn't dry out. best . . . Paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thanks, Paul!
What would be your best idea on stripping multi layer paint off a large wooden wall
Hey pacman. My best idea would be to paint it or remove it and replace it. You might be able to buy wood and go over it. You're about to take on a really big job and expensive job but that said,anything can be done. Methyl chloride based stripper would be the fastest. It will be messy and you'll need to assure that you are aware of all the safety hazards (skin, eyes, respiratory) and hazards to the floors from drips and runs. The other question you have to ask is will it be worth it? Do you know the type and condition of the wood itself? Stripper is not cheap and you tend to use more on vertical surfaces. Pacman this sounds like a really big project so just be 100% sure you know what you are in for. Sorry for the negativity but it's not a project I personally would take on. best . . . paul
Your honesty is appreciated!
Hi 👋, I want to strip the paint off a small metal frame... it's a small plant stand / little table, It has NO wood on it and there is no details in the metal, just a straight metal frame. It it rusted and the current paint is chipping off on it in places.
Would it be best to remove the paint using a heat gum or chemical stripper ?
Thank You soooo VERY much for any advice 🥰
Hi Juju. I am not a metal guy but I would use a wire brush and or sandpaper. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions ~ Thank You so VERY much for the reply 😀😊
Have a GREAT rest of your day 🥰
Heat gun wins always, because;
1.heat gun has no nasty chemicals,
2. Heat gun has no globs of paint & chemicals dropping on your floor and clothes & treading it through the house,
3. With a heat gun there's no worrying about kids & pets touching it or getting in their eyes, 4. Stripper paste takes ages to bubble up with thick paint & then you need to put more on, heat gun is instant
5. Its expensive on a project with thick paint you will go through a lot of paint removal pastes. Heat gun is free.
6.The wood gets wet with it & softens so when you scrape it off you have to scrape the whole surface and the soft wet wood gets very scratched & damaged, heat gun lifts it in large lumps & also leaves the wood hard & dry.
7. A fair amount of the time the stripper has no effect on the paint/varnish. Heat gun works on almost all paints/varnishes.
Hey Itachi. I'm not promoting either but I could legitimately argue just about every point you made. Heat guns are higher on my list since the EPA banned methyl chloride based strippers last year. best . . . paul
So you have closed mind and do not evaluate each job for best solution interesting way to get through life. Paul did put up a balanced Tutorial I have found if you actually Watch and listen you always learn something new. Next point have respect for your elders.
@@davidwright1752 Thanx David. best . . . paul
Itachi Uchiha , well , I agree with most of your points, but the Heat Gun is not free, nor is the electricity to run it. But with the low-quality of most strippers now, I'm going to get one.
We used hot water on a cup placed on the top of the hardwood floor. Then scraped the varnish & paint off. Easy, Free & quick & dry & safe!
I use a heat gun every time I have a 3 year old and my workshop is in my garage fumes are nasty for the house hold takes more time but so satisfying
Hey Mick. I agree. The other issue is they pretty much banned methyl chloride based strippers in the states and the new strippers are weak by comparison. So heart guns are a good option. best . . . paul
Thank you! Appreciate your knowledge!! It is sure to save me time and money plus the courage to refinish the family piano stool that had been painted!!!
Go Carol!! Pretty straight forward just make sure you have good ventilation and eye protection. best . . . paul
PS. The next step is sanding. I have a video in process but won't be released for a couple weeks. There is a written description on my website: paulsDIY.solutions. Check it out when ur ready.
...found the round leg spindles a challenge as I expected but what made it especially difficult was the scraper had no surface to carry off the initial excess paint so it quickly clogged up my scouring pads turning it into a wrestle haha. Will chip away at it again tomorrow. Read twisting burlap and using it like a shoeshine cloth works so I wonder if the sisal rope I have would work as a substitute saving me a trip into town ha. Looking forward to your sanding video for my next step.
Do you have the finished project pocs anywhere?
No but maybe in time I'll get some of them up on my website.
Paul i know you're a woodworker but do you have any tips/tricks for metals ,imrepainting alot of things around the home my wife and I bought to try and save money . Btw great video i am also going to use all of the info i gained watching you and put it to very good use. I know this is youtube and product promotion is troublsome so i was also wondering if you could tell me the brand of stripper used,if you do tell me will itvbecok for wood and metal. Thank You for the great video and all the tips within.
Hey Kris. Stripper works on just about anything!! I'm not sure about the brand (I tend to buy whatever methyl chloride based stripper is on sale). I think that was from Home Depot and I think their brand is Klean Strip. Just make sure you follow the safety stuff I outlined at the beginning. It's nasty stuff!! best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Ok Paul, thank you for all you're help and wealth of information . I'll have my hands full this weekend . Once again TY so much.
NEW SUBSCRIPTION!!!!
Thanx Tony
Hi Paul,
I am a beginner in wood painting. I used a varnish to remove the finish from my coffee table i left it for 15 minutes when i tried to scraped it it doesn’t come off easily it’s get dry and it takes too long to remove and i scratched my wood becausei am unable to remove it specially from the sides and the inside of the table. Should i use something else?
Also after removing from the top i sand it and stained it after wiping with water and i saw some bubble in the stain ? Why is that?
Hi Duaa. The federal government banned methyl chloride based strippers last year. The new strippers are a poor second and you are not alone in finding them hard to work with and ineffective. The bubbling is because you wet the surface with water. Your stain is probably an oil based stain (most are) so it would not be compatible with water. Mineral spirits would have been okay. These are rookie mistakes so don't get discouraged we've all made them. best . . . paul
paulsDIYsolutions
Thank you Paul
should i use anything between the stripping and staining ?
Hi Duaa. I typically wash down the wood with lacquer thinner. It's in the mineral spirit family but a little stronger. It assures that most of the stripper residue will be removed. Stripping is hard on the wood so a good sanding with a 180 grit paper is in order. I would do another quick wipe down with lacquer thinner or mineral spirits and then apply your stain. At this point one more very light and fast sanding is needed to level any grain raise. Next depends on the clear finish you'll be using. What are you planning finishing with?
Does the wood get contaminated (toxic) after a chemical stripper?
Hi Nasse. Good question. I'm not sure. The chemicals are toxic when inhaled and they will burn if skin is directly exposed to wet stripper but I imagine that when dry and all gasses have evaporated it's very minimal . That said I'm not a chemist and I don't know of anyone suffering ill effects after drying. best . . . paul
HI new here, Thank you for all the info. I hope you can help me with a problem I have ran into while trying to remove years of paint on all the door facings and base boards in the Old home I bought ,it is one of the oldest homes in this little town,but she is still pretty but needs facelift like me..lol but I have purchased a sander , a remover from Walmarts which was a joke 2minute remover. So my best friend and I have been scraping through layers of paint sometimes 3 or 4 so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Hey Lisa. Since that video was made the EPA stopped the retail sales of methyl chloride based strippers which were really effective and fast. The new environmentally safe strippers aren't effective. I would recommend a heat gun. It's slower but effective. Since your home is old the paint may be lead based so be sure to have good ventilation. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions thank you for getting back with me,stay safe!
I have a 1925 house and some of the oak woodwork was painted. Ran low on the older "good" stripper and bought a can of "2 Minute" by Sunnyside. All it did was evaporate! What garbage, returned it for Klean Strip but it's not as effective as the pre-2020 products. I'm getting a heat gun.
a heat gun i had one time to paint house siding was nice!!!! man i miss it they dont make it not more butt it had a built on scrapper on it and it only took 30 sec to start and just move and scrap as you heat. the name of the gun was " Bernzomatic" it ran with Propane dang was a good tool.
Thanx for sharing Truth!! best . . . paul
I wish I found this before I started my last project
Hey Couple. While the video is still valid for the most part there's a recent glitch. The EPA banned methyl chloride strippers last summer and the new strippers are weak in comparison. Commercial strip shops still have access to it though so I recommend finding a good place and let them do the stripping and you do the rest. Sorry our government in action!! best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions we are doing a pie shelf that had been in a fire it has water and heat damage we tried some stripper it was as you stated week we ended up taking all the boards through a plainer and sanding all of it by hand the pie safe would not have any value from our restoration but it was being thrown away anyway.
@@CoupleofBunkies Sounds like a worthwhile project. I have many such stories.
can you do a video on oil vs poly
Funny you mention that Anyone, I am currently working on tung oil which is my all time favorite woodworking oil. best . . . paul
cause i want to reserve the wood is a solid wood door hence the weight and has cool old knots in it but has about 4 coats of different varnish and i would guess 6 coats of paint. sorry for the 5,000 questions
Does that discarded paint eat through the garbage bag?
Hi BA ANNE. No it shouldn't, although you'd think it would. Never has for me. best . . . paul
What brand of stripper are u using?
Hey CRW. Not sure I tend to buy what's on sale. The problem now is methyl chloride based strippers have been banned from public use. Most of the current strippers are organic and slow to work. They require overnight wait and multiple coats. Commercial refinishing companies can still purchase and use methyl chloride based strippers. Currently due to cost and time I would personally recommend taking your project to a commercial stripper. best . . . paul
question to strip a door does it need to be taken off the hinges to use a chemical stripper applied with a brush its an outside door
Hey Anyone. If you were to use a methyl chloride based paste
stripper it won’t run and you could do it that way. That said, it will be a
hundred times easier to remove the hinges and lay the door flat to do your
work. Either way yes it would work. best . . . paul
thank you its a 75 lb door at least so thats not an option but i want to restore it to its former glory since its the focal point of my kitchen
Got it Anyone. It will be messy (even messier in a vertical position) so make sure you cover everything, including yourself. The other issue is ventilation, please be careful here. This sounds like an old door and may well be lead-based paint. Which is only an issue if swallowed or fumes are inhaled. One more stab at this though. Can't you recruit a neighbor to help you unhinge the door and drag it outside? If I were your neighbor I'd help you. In either case Anyway good luck let me know how it turns out. best . . . paul
thank you i have seen another video in regards to vertical services from this old home and in regards to paint so doing my research right now looking to start sometime next week thank you i purchased a 1940's home and there is a lot to be done
wow, the original wood is so beautiful.
I have a dresser I will remove paint from
Hey Powpaow. Thanx. It was truly a labor of love. It is now on display in one of my parents granddaughters' homes. Be careful though. The EPA has since banned methyl chloride based strippers for use with the general public (commercial strip shops can still get the good stuff). The new strippers are terrible. They are weak and hard to work with. It's a shame because there is craftsmanship and real wood (not pressboard Ikea type) furniture out there that could be salvaged. I now recommend taking it to a commercial shop, let them strip it and you finish it. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions I will be using a heating gun, I don't have the space or safety equipment for chemical removal :)
I followed your video on my Acacia wood table to remove clear finish using Citrastrip. I covered with plastic wrap and let the stripper work for about 90 minutes. I cleaned with mineral spirits with a scouring pad, then again with a rag with another healthy amount of spirits. Waited 24 hrs to dry. I'm at raw wood after sanding with 80 grit and noticed the pores weeping or bleeding the dark stain (or mixture with the stripper), then eventually dried to the touch about 10 hours later. I neutralized it with more mineral spirits, came back 24 hours later and the pore bleeding continued, then dried again. I rubbed down again with spirits and left to dry 3 more days. This morning it has been 5 days since removing stripper, so I tried again to sand over what again looks to be hundreds of tiny stain dots that seemed to have dried. Nearly 30 seconds after sanding this morning, they come back again. What should I do?
Hey Steve. Wood can get over-saturated with almost any liquid. It happens when people apply too much stain. The pores drink it, the wood fibers expand and as they begin to return to their normal size they release the stain. I have not used the new strippers but this is the word on the street. Since the new strippers have to soak-in before working, older wood tends to suck up both the stripper and the residue form the removal. Pore bleeding can last a few weeks depending on the wood and it's porosity. I would continue to do exactly what you are doing and wait for the wood to "dry down". If you are going to stain afterward be careful with over-saturation. In always wipe my stains when I see the first dry spot. best . . . paul
@@paulsDIYsolutions Good advice. Maybe my 3 applications of a lot of mineral spirits isn't allowing it to dry as fast either. I just stripped the table leaves as an experiment. I'm wondering about sanding only for the rest of the table to sidestep this frustration with stripper and wet pores. It was a very dark factory stained table. I've read factory stains can be tricky to remove. Any suggestion on oil-based stain type once I get to that point (gel, wiping, penatrating) for this Acacia wood if I'm looking for an darker espresso/tobacco color + 2-3 coats of thinned poly?
All stain is tricky to remove (it's deep). I only use oil based wiping stain so not a fan of gels. best . . . paul