This is sweet! Thank very much for this very helpful video which takes the nervousness out of the picture and to achieve a professional look. Thanks again and keep these awesome videos coming!
Great results there. I had not seen the sol used on such a highly textured surface. I have both of those for decals, but have only used them once so far. I have two more models to decal soon and wanted to brush up on how people are putting on decals. I get intimated by how it is rather easy to destroy the decals if you aren't careful. I had forgotten about putting on the gloss before the decals, as it has been awhile since I used decals.
Thanks a lot buddy 🙌 I'm so glad you found it useful. It's definitely a scary prospect but one that you'll find easy once you find a method that works for you 😉
Hello and thanks for the video. I just followed your tutorial step by step to affix my first ever decal. Fortunately, I had bought the micro set and the sol years ago and I hadn’t thrown them away. It was practice, but thanks again to you, it turned out looking as if I was doing this for years, my goal is to the Marlboro livery decals on Emerson Fittipaldi’s Indy car, but I’ll practice a little more before I start it. 🍻
That's made my day mate, I'm chuffed you've found it useful. I'll try to make a better video in the future as this is now rather old but the techniques remain the same 😄 be sure to show me how your Indy car comes out! I love those old liveries!
Good video thanks. Just fyi i use humbrol decal fix which works just like micro Set but is cheaper of course. Use just the same and wash off any excess. But of course it doesnt make decals conform as well as the Sol but if its a flat surface or just has faint lines the humbrol is very effective.
Thanks for the video! Question…I’m deathly afraid of causing decal damage while the decal is still soft. How long after the Micro Sol do you wait until you help it along by rolling a swab over it? Your video has helped shed light on these particular products as a while ago I switched over to Mr. Mark Softer and Mr. Mark Setter as I wasn’t getting the conformity I desired with the Micro series, but like I said your video has helped me want to give it another go perhaps. One thing I’ve been learning on the wife’s Cameo 5 is cutting my own mask to airbrush all my marking instead of using decals. Of course this would be extremely hard in 1/72 unless you were dealing with a solid color but for me working in 1/48 and 1/35 it’s proving to be a great advantage since I shoot my markings right after my top coat(s) are applied as I don’t have to worry about silvering or conformity. I the shoot a gloss over everything then as I really do like my oils for washes and weathering. But this is another topic so my apologies. Thanks again for the video!
Thanks for your comment mate and great question! The decals can be left for a minute or two. Just slowly put your swab on the decal as it could be prone to moving. The slower you go with the swab the better you'll be. You'll soon see the decals conforming to the surface. If you ever get stuck or worried don't hesitate to message me on social media or email. Happy to help 😀 I think that's a great idea with regards to the cricut machine. I might even try it with my 1/72 scale models!!
I never used transfers in all these years but I’ve heard of people soaking the decal in Micro Sol before putting it on. I like your results, have you ever tried that method too?
Thanks buddy :) I've tried that method but I just ended up with the exact same results. Just as long as you're using clean water, you should be sweet :) Let me know how you go, I'd love to know how you go :D
Great question. Basically it'll just mean your decal isn't sealed to the model. You could accidentally touch the decal and it'll come off. In short, the first spray of semi-gloss creates a flat surface for the decal to rest on. The you add the two agents and once they're dry you respray it with semi-gloss. This then acts as the seal, the decal will become protected and it'll be secure. Finally you give it a clear coat which removes the shiny gloss. I hope this helps to clarify the reasons we use these coats.
It really does come down to personal preference. I prefer decals and then a wash. Ordinarily I follow this; Airbrush/base coat - gloss coat - decals - gloss coat - pin wash - wash clean up - oil weathering - chipping - highlights - flat clear coat. I hope this helps a little? 😄
This is sweet! Thank very much for this very helpful video which takes the nervousness out of the picture and to achieve a professional look. Thanks again and keep these awesome videos coming!
I'm chuffed you've found this useful buddy :D I really appreciate your kind words :D
Finally sold on micro sol after watching it conform to the zimmeritt, great tutorial! And really good looking tiger 2s, love the barrel!
Thanks buddy, shame these are being taken away from me ... I want to keep them now 😉
@@paintingpanzers hahaha, they are going to a good home! You can face them on the table
Great results there. I had not seen the sol used on such a highly textured surface. I have both of those for decals, but have only used them once so far. I have two more models to decal soon and wanted to brush up on how people are putting on decals. I get intimated by how it is rather easy to destroy the decals if you aren't careful. I had forgotten about putting on the gloss before the decals, as it has been awhile since I used decals.
Thanks a lot buddy 🙌 I'm so glad you found it useful. It's definitely a scary prospect but one that you'll find easy once you find a method that works for you 😉
Hello and thanks for the video. I just followed your tutorial step by step to affix my first ever decal.
Fortunately, I had bought the micro set and the sol years ago and I hadn’t thrown them away. It was practice, but thanks again to you, it turned out looking as if I was doing this for years, my goal is to the Marlboro livery decals on Emerson Fittipaldi’s Indy car, but I’ll practice a little more before I start it. 🍻
That's made my day mate, I'm chuffed you've found it useful. I'll try to make a better video in the future as this is now rather old but the techniques remain the same 😄 be sure to show me how your Indy car comes out! I love those old liveries!
Many thanks, just got into modeling and you have really helped , cheers
That's awesome to hear mate and welcome to the gang 😆
Superb video. Cheers from canada
Thank you very much! I'm so glad you've found it useful 😀
Nice tutorial nicely explained.🐻🐵☺️👍
Thank you so much 👍
very nice video! thank you!
Glad you liked it! Thank you 😁
Good video thanks. Just fyi i use humbrol decal fix which works just like micro Set but is cheaper of course. Use just the same and wash off any excess. But of course it doesnt make decals conform as well as the Sol but if its a flat surface or just has faint lines the humbrol is very effective.
Ah that's awesome, thanks for the tip! I'll definitely try out those Humbrol offerings!
Nice video, nice tips, nice channel...I'm the 300th!
Wooohoo! Thank you so much!
Thanks for the video! Question…I’m deathly afraid of causing decal damage while the decal is still soft. How long after the Micro Sol do you wait until you help it along by rolling a swab over it? Your video has helped shed light on these particular products as a while ago I switched over to Mr. Mark Softer and Mr. Mark Setter as I wasn’t getting the conformity I desired with the Micro series, but like I said your video has helped me want to give it another go perhaps.
One thing I’ve been learning on the wife’s Cameo 5 is cutting my own mask to airbrush all my marking instead of using decals. Of course this would be extremely hard in 1/72 unless you were dealing with a solid color but for me working in 1/48 and 1/35 it’s proving to be a great advantage since I shoot my markings right after my top coat(s) are applied as I don’t have to worry about silvering or conformity. I the shoot a gloss over everything then as I really do like my oils for washes and weathering. But this is another topic so my apologies.
Thanks again for the video!
Thanks for your comment mate and great question! The decals can be left for a minute or two. Just slowly put your swab on the decal as it could be prone to moving. The slower you go with the swab the better you'll be. You'll soon see the decals conforming to the surface. If you ever get stuck or worried don't hesitate to message me on social media or email. Happy to help 😀
I think that's a great idea with regards to the cricut machine. I might even try it with my 1/72 scale models!!
what did you use as the gloss coat before applying decals?
Tamiya Semi-Gloss Spray (rattle can) 😉
I never used transfers in all these years but I’ve heard of people soaking the decal in Micro Sol before putting it on. I like your results, have you ever tried that method too?
Thanks buddy :) I've tried that method but I just ended up with the exact same results. Just as long as you're using clean water, you should be sweet :) Let me know how you go, I'd love to know how you go :D
Question what will happen if you don't use glossy or semi-gloss clear coat?
Great question. Basically it'll just mean your decal isn't sealed to the model. You could accidentally touch the decal and it'll come off.
In short, the first spray of semi-gloss creates a flat surface for the decal to rest on. The you add the two agents and once they're dry you respray it with semi-gloss. This then acts as the seal, the decal will become protected and it'll be secure. Finally you give it a clear coat which removes the shiny gloss.
I hope this helps to clarify the reasons we use these coats.
Good Job!
How is the order? first (pin) wash and then decals?
Or the other way around?
Thanks for reply
It really does come down to personal preference. I prefer decals and then a wash. Ordinarily I follow this;
Airbrush/base coat - gloss coat - decals - gloss coat - pin wash - wash clean up - oil weathering - chipping - highlights - flat clear coat.
I hope this helps a little? 😄
Thanks!!! Helpfull!!