Petzl connect adjust and dual connect adjust review
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- I know these things have been out on the market for a bunch of year now but here's what I've been using and how I've been using them in my day to day work.
patron: / ryantilleyclimbinganda...
Instagram: rtillson_
This is a rare occasion of CZcams recommending the right kind of channel for me. I've so far watched 8 videos and will probably binge your entire channel over the next couple of weeks.
I really enjoy your style of presenting. Just the right amount of non chalon unscriptedness with highly densed informatiom, without being overwhelming. You have a great feel for the "viewing part" and know when to come close to the camera. But you never lose your flow and train of thought, which is increbily impressive accounting for the very few cuts you do.
I'm very far from being a pro but have watched and talked quite a lot over certain aspects for a beginner. In almost everything I've watched from you so far I fully agree with you and am happy to find even new gems and details; again: without making 40minute video.
I hope you get more exposure, if thats what you want, because to me it feels your content can really help folks to prepare for proper in-person education.
Hey Ryan. Great review. I've recently switched to the single connect adjust from the Metolious anchor chain. I love the adjustability, and the ability to then lengthen the anchor to test my rappel setup. I've found myself just grabbing a sling though, to extend my rappel, which I didn't do before. Seeing you clove in for that was kind of a game changer for me. Application here will generally be the semi-rare single pitch route that you need to rap off of instead of lowering. I can see how the dual would be better in a multipitch situation.
Pezl adjust is a great piece of kit, I’ve been using for around a year.
I have a single version, even for multi-pitch, as you showed it works very well (and it’s less in the way than the double version...)
Either clove hitch or use a sling to extend your rappel device, both work well.
Cool demo ! Can’t wait to see you compare the Camp and Edelrid products.
For dynamic lanyards there are also Climbing Technology Tuner and Rock Empire Pip on the market. I have been waiting for someone to do a comparison review on all of them ;)
Ryan,
Could you discuss pro’s and con’s of being a SPI/Guide?
Back story: I’m preparing to retire from the military in about 5 years. The last year and change I’ve been climbing sport up to 10a. Looking into entering the world of trad. I’ve taught and actively climb with about 12 different people i work with, really enjoyed teaching the basics I know to keep them safe. Considering doing this line of work when I retire.
Great comparison! I have the Dual Connect Adjust and I definitely share your opinion that it's rappel extension strand feels a bit too long... Also I find it to be very bulky so I tend to not use it as much.
I quite like it for via Ferrara too
I have a Kong slyde setup on my harness now. Used to have it setup as a dual connect adjust, but recently switched to only having one strand to clean up my harness a bit. It costs a fraction of the price compared to the connect adjust, but giving yourself more slack is a bit less smooth compared to the petzl one in my experience. Maybe you could get that one in your comparison as well.
I used to have a kong slide as well, I bougth a petzl adjust about a year ago, I think it’s worth every euro I paid !
The kong slide is great if you’re on a budget, as it’s still a solid adjustable lanyard, but it really is a pain to get it to release some slack, whereas this is smooth on the pezl adjust as long as it’s not loaded.
I've got both the petzl and the edelrid. The edelrid is much easier to adjust under load I've been able extend with one hand while hanging in a controlled manner, but harder to extend when unloaded. The biggest issue with the edelrid is you must use the correct biners otherwise it will slide. So far I've found that only ovals work
Nice video. I personally use alpine batterfly for abseil setup with my connect adjust. I don't like how clove hitch rotates a bit the whole setup. P.S. gotta try the locking quickdraw solution. Thank you
I'm using a kong slyde on about 3.5m of dynamic rope, attached through my tie-in points with a rethreaded bowline - with the slyde on one arm for my PAS and my ATC/rappel biner on the other, terminated with a figure 8.
Both biners have rubber thingies on them to keep everything where i want it (and it stops any rattling too).
I tried some other methods but this is both very customisable and feels bomber.
Thank you so much, great video!
Try out the connect vario you can change the length of the fixed arm I like it for that and also you can make it long enough to use as a second tether
Ya, I’ve been seeing that one around, I’ve been toying with buying one, but I think it would be better to spend money on the edelrid lanyard for comparing it to the others
I have used the PAS for years but like this system a lot. If I chose one it would be the dual.
Nice. I've recently got Dual Connect Adjust so only have a limited experience with it, but one thing which I don't like that much is the length of the rappel arm (that you mentioned too). To me it seems too long, so on the steep wall it's difficult to extend the anchor arm far enough to weight the rappel system. But maybe it just needs more practice
Yeah that’s why I got Dual Connect Vario. I set my own length, much nicer.
@@macmurfy2jkaI was just waiting for someone to mention this in the comments. Nobody ever seems to talk about this model. I’m not sure if it’s perhaps a much newer release. I bought the Vario myself, for no particular reason besides it only being a few £s more expensive than the Dual Connect Afjust on Amazon, but I’m certainly glad I did since it offers complete flexibility in choosing arm lengths. If I only want to have a minimal level of extension for the rappel device, I can very easily achieve that and, by extension (no pun intended), give myself more length on the tether arm as a result, which can be far more useful. The only downside, I suppose, compared to the Dual Connect Adjust is the time spent on tying the rope into the tie-in loops of the harness with a figure-eight, and potentially having to mess around pushing slack through the knot one way or the other, versus just needing to girth hitch the pre-sewn loop of the Dual Connect Adjust.
Looking forward to the follow up video! I only see the petzls around me, so I am curious how the Edelrid and camp compare.
Love the video, info and presentation style as always. Thanks Ryan! Any word on that tether comparison video with the Edelrid Switch?
When I use my Dual Connect Vario, I set it up girth hitched to the belay loop and then slung another my arm and head like a chest sling when not using it as a PAS.
I love my dual connect adjust
I want the elderid one because it is lime green-my favourite colour. But I’m waiting until my petzl is out of commission
Been using the standard connect adjust for a while. It’s really great. Costs an arm and a leg for what it is though.
Is there a comparison video already? 👀
Dumb question - for the single connect adjust, how do you clean a sport route and remain redundantly anchored if you have to untie your figure of 8? (because the chains are too small to pass a bight thru)
My understanding is it’s best to be on 2 bolts so in case one blows (unlikely) you don’t fall to your death.
Do you end up clipping the tether to the 2 QuickDraws? Or do you clip it to one bolt and then clove to the other?
The downside I’ve found of clipping the tether to the two QuickDraws is
1 - you’re further away from the rings/chains you’re trying to work with
2 - the QuickDraws remain weighted so you can’t remove them until you’ve tested your re-tied figure 8. they add clutter to the system, but it’s not a huge deal I guess..
Overall maybe I just need to get better at cleaning 😅
My understanding is that if you clip to one bolt and then clove to another with the connect adjust, if that bolt fails, the other would be shock loaded. Maybe a less concern with a dynamic tether like connect adjust, but still.
The advantage of connect adjust is that it can be adjusted to be very close to the anchor. So you should clip to the 2 quickdraws, re-tie figure 8 and ask for take. That should unweight the system so it's easier to clean the anchor. There is a good demonstration of that in this video czcams.com/video/9RGxRkhAHsM/video.html
correct me if I am wrong, can you not just
1. PAS with the adujust into the masterpoint of the anchor,
2. untie your figure 8, re-tie through the chains,
3. have the belayer take and weight the chains and the rope system.
4. deconstruct the anchor and get lowered
who knows though im dumb and usualy just clip a bolt and call it a day.
ive usualy visually inspected the bolts before setting up anchors on them anywhos
@@kylepereira5672yeah, that’s what I meant by my comment of clipping to the two QuickDraws. I guess my point was if you had two bolts and were cleaning a sport route. Any anchor masterpoint would work the same way.
At least for me and my friends we typically clip into the two bolt hangers directly with our PAS, instead of into the QuickDraws, because then they’re weighted and you can’t remove them from the system until the end. Causes more clutter.
But yeah that way would work, just more clutter during cleaning IMO
Would love to hear your opinion on the Evo version for aid climbing
Nice Video...Subbed
Such a great video!!! I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these and can't decide!! :) Have you had a chance to try the Edelrid? I've seen a few videos where that seemed to be a better design for releasing under load, but I loved your review of the two Petzl's so much I thought it would be great to get your opinion on the Edelrid if possible first. Thanks!!
These dedicated tethers look cool but do you think they are really worth the extra weight on your harness(for personal climbing)? If yes I'd love to hear why :)
My two cents, the continuous adjustability is very convenient and reduces your workload a little bit compared to a PAS. The weight is not significant enough to worry about unless you’re mountaineering.
My personal opinion : yes. The fact that it gives you the ability to adjust lanyard length so that you can weight the anchor and stay in the most comfortable position is worth every extra gram.
Have you used them aiding? Any thoughts there?
I've used them a little bit for improvised aiding, they would work really good, but would get a little tiring to pull throughout a full day of climbing.
Thank you for your videos. I use a connect adjust. In order to connect the belay device to it I use a French prusik. It works really well (in my view, better than using a knot). Watch this video (in particular from 3:22) where this is explained czcams.com/video/TAu1jEiq3wE/video.htmlsi=PYb_vOLz6bFVYFFw The video is in Spanish but the images are self explanatory. THANK YOU!
I don´t personally like to trust only one point of anchor - this case the belay loop - for anchor myself and attached my rappel set up...... I prefer redundancy as much as I can...
i think if your belay loop is breaking you have bigger problems on your hands! From my limited and bad research, the forces necesarry to break a belay loop will destroy your spine way before the loop breaks.
and hypothetically your belay loop shouldn't wear down in the time that you use it before it's time to retire it (between 2-10 years based on condition and use and storage).
someone correct me if i am wrong!
the back up knot is called ²back up² for some reason.....just think about it.....@@kylepereira5672
Knots on rope is preffered than stitches
I prefer a Purcell Prussik. Less weight and bulk, more versatile.