As I stated at the beginning of my series 10 years ago, my knowledge was given to me from Our Lord Jesus Christ, from whom all blessings come. He taught that Our Father in heaven is much displeased when talents are buried. They are not ours to keep, but from Him to share.
I like how you demonstrate how simple stainless steel calipers can be used to measure depth. My Grandfather was a master machinist and tool and die maker. I inherited one of his depth gauges.
my grandfather was a carpenter and mason. I inherted some of his tools and will get the rest most likely when my own father passes. I feel his spirit when I am cutting trim with his old stanley tenon saw :)
This is technical genius and I expect this method may inspire similar techniques if I come across a similar problem, not just when I adjust my front sight. Bravo!
I presume this video only pertains to rifles with windage adjustable rear sights. I'm one of those guys who zeroes such rifles using the windage knob, then forgets about it. The only times I've ever made front sight windage adjustments is when the sights were so far off I had no other choice or it was the only way to make an adjustment. I never considered the advantage of going the extra step to make the center windage position of the rear sight the actual zero position. I watched this video twice so I could catch all the pertinent details and it makes a lot of sense. Now I need to check some rifles and tweak their front sights accordingly. Kudos to GB490 for making this recommendation and demonstrating the technique.
Military battle sights are a different animal than traditional sporting rifle sights. They are designed to be set to zero, both for elevation and windage, so they can be adjusted for elevations beyond their point blank trajectory, and to compensate for wind, while always being instantly returned to battlesight zero.
Awesome! I had to do that when I took off Springfields muzzle break to replace it with a bayonet lug and Springfield over tighten the sight so I had to buy a new front sight lol.
Hey! thanks for that information. I sighted my service grade M1 with my reloads on the rear sight only, and did not think I needed to do more adjustments. I will do this, and watch the other video on M1/M1a sights like you said! Keep that powder dry!
Now, you'll be able to confidently make windage and elevation corrections when needed, knowing that you can return to your original zero just by looking at the scale. God bless.
Good tip you can use on all types of iron sights with Dovetail slots. The measurements will be different but the results will still perform the same.🙂👍
Thank you for all your wonderful information. I used to have this kind of discussions all the time with my grandfather but he's gone now. I get the same feeling I did back then when I watch your videos. Ty for pointing toward Jesus as well. It speaks well of you.
Each click represents 0.0078”, not 0.010”. WWII Garand drawings say the windage screw has 32-pitch threads. It turns 4 clicks per revolution, so 4 clicks are 0.03125”, not 0.040”. Other than that detail, the method outlined is useful and helpful.
Sir, Thank you for sharing your time and wisdom. If time allows would you please do a video on how to properly peen the barrel to reduce side to side movement of the front sight/ gas cylinder on the M1 Garand. Thank you.
love this guys, great info and you could just listen to this guys charming east coast drawl read the phone book, a fascinating pleasure to learn all these pro tips!
Thank you. Your videos are a valuable resource. I would feel confident trying this if I felt my M1 needed it. You are a great teacher. Love to Benny from my 5 beagles. They're in front of the wood stove too.
I like, since the barrel is in a vise and the vise is metal. I would use a travel indicator (with a magnet base) on the vise and put the indicator onto the front sight. then you could move the front sight exactly .030 in. also if it moved when you tighten it you would see it clearly.
Great Video! I have an M1 Garand that shoots left. I've already taken it to the range and adjusted the windage to the right. However, I noticed that the front sight was set all the way to the left when I got it from the CMP. So from your video I know I have to still go left a bit on the front sight. Is it safe/correct to ever have that front sight hanging a bit off of the dovetail base? If not, what do you recommend? Thanks for all of your content and your time!
The front sight should not be moved so far that any portion of it is out of the dovetail track. Any further centering adjustment should be made with the rear sight. Although the rear sight may be off center, you'll simply have to make a mental note or jot it someplace about its zero position. These days, you can even take a photo of the zero position with a cell phone and keep it for reference. Good luck and God bless.
@@GunBlue490 Thanks for the advice. I'll be practicing leading up to the NM's at Camp Perry so I'll just make that mental note adjustment using the rear sight and get used to it. Thanks and God Bless!
Hi do you have a video on how to tighten the m1 Garand gas cylinder/ front sight to barrel spline fit? Mine is loose and I’d like to tighten the spline fit before I start moving the front sight block. Thanks you make some great videos on gunsmithing. Regards Doug
I just put a Lyman peep on my Winchester model 94 but the sight picture confuses me. Elevation not windage. It always seems correct. Not fired the rifle yet though.
If it's a flat top front blade, place the top dead center. If it's a round bead, place the bead dead center. Your eye will figure it out naturally. That's about it!
Your sight detents are stripped and must be replaced. I had the same problem. The part was soft. Call SA and request a replacement. Do not over tighten the windage knob screw.
I would first apply a penetrating thread lubricant such as Liquid Wrench or Kroil and allow it to penetrate for 30 minutes. Use a very close fitting Allen wrench, seated fully, and attempt to unscrew it with firm pressure. If that doesn't work, wipe all oil off, and heat the screw with a pencil flame torch or solder iron for no more than 20 seconds, then try again. It should break free.
Thanks for watching. Now, if you have a shorter SOCOM version, each click will represent a more coarse adjustment than 1 MOA with the same rear sight, due to the shorter sight radius, but the front sight will still be moved according to whatever your rear sight windage adjustment is. So while one click will be more on target, it still means .010 movement of the front sight.
It's not quite that old; about the late 80s. I started out with green nylon dial calipers from Lyman, until I could afford these. I still regard dial calipers as more reliable, and they need no batteries. The pointer is where it is.
Sir, I enjoy your videos very much. I recently purchased a M1 Garand from CMP. I know you have to be careful about shooting factory 30 06 loads in these rifles. Do you recommend using an adjustable gas plug? I reload and want to work up a low power load to shoot in my M1. What's your feelings on powder and bullets to use? You and Benny keep up the good work! Thank you.
I have a '53 H&R M1, I used to compete in local High Power Rifle matches with it and used my Reloads only, I started to work up loads beginning with commercial brass (Rem) and 155 gr. Sierra Match bullets, Federal LR primers, with 44 gr. of IMR 4895 eventually settling on 45 gr. @ 2630 +/- FPS. That said, I have since changed my loading (I no longer compete) to Lake City Arsenal brass, 147-150 gr. FMJ, CCI LR primers with 46 gr. of IMR 4895. There are are a bunch of loads for the M1 on line that are 'hotter' (up to 50 gr. of 4895) but as long as your rifle functions with lower charges, why 'beat it up' for a little higher velocity. M2 Ball Cal. .30 varied from a muzzle velocity of mid-2600's to the high 2700's in the 24" M1 barrel. Just some 'FYI' to a fellow 'M1 guy'.
There's a 100 other things you could be doing but you're taking time to share your knowledge with us. Thank you.
As I stated at the beginning of my series 10 years ago, my knowledge was given to me from Our Lord Jesus Christ, from whom all blessings come. He taught that Our Father in heaven is much displeased when talents are buried. They are not ours to keep, but from Him to share.
@@GunBlue490 God bless you & yours.
Geez. This is probably the most useful video on CZcams.
That might have been his best m1a video so far. Short. Exacting. Straight to the point. Super helpful!
Wonderful! I recently purchased a M1 Garand and will be competing this next year in the Garand class and every tip is very useful. Thank you!
I wish you the best in the competition! God bless.
Interesting precision adjusting process…thank you! Definitely better than the way I have done it in the past…
Thank you. You're exactly the person I wanted to help out!
I’m sad that I just now found your channel. But I’m so glad that I have found it.
Finally! This now makes complete sense...thank you sir. I appreciate the Benny update, thanks again. My pup turned eighteen (18 !!!) on 10-10-22.
Give your pup a big hug from me and Benny!
I like how you demonstrate how simple stainless steel calipers can be used to measure depth. My Grandfather was a master machinist and tool and die maker. I inherited one of his depth gauges.
my grandfather was a carpenter and mason. I inherted some of his tools and will get the rest most likely when my own father passes.
I feel his spirit when I am cutting trim with his old stanley tenon saw :)
This is technical genius and I expect this method may inspire similar techniques if I come across a similar problem, not just when I adjust my front sight. Bravo!
GB490: Outstanding video! Thank you for making it.... you are not only a skilled armorer, but a good teacher as well!
THANK YOU for this useful and interesting video!
What detailed and simple explanation of how to adjust the windage of the front site.
Thanks so much!!
You're welcome!
I presume this video only pertains to rifles with windage adjustable rear sights. I'm one of those guys who zeroes such rifles using the windage knob, then forgets about it. The only times I've ever made front sight windage adjustments is when the sights were so far off I had no other choice or it was the only way to make an adjustment. I never considered the advantage of going the extra step to make the center windage position of the rear sight the actual zero position. I watched this video twice so I could catch all the pertinent details and it makes a lot of sense. Now I need to check some rifles and tweak their front sights accordingly. Kudos to GB490 for making this recommendation and demonstrating the technique.
Military battle sights are a different animal than traditional sporting rifle sights. They are designed to be set to zero, both for elevation and windage, so they can be adjusted for elevations beyond their point blank trajectory, and to compensate for wind, while always being instantly returned to battlesight zero.
@@GunBlue490 Have you done a video on how to set elevation to zero?
@@Paladin1873 Yes, I mentioned that at the end of my video. It's the same one as whitening.
@@GunBlue490 Thanks, I'll watch it.
Awesome! I had to do that when I took off Springfields muzzle break to replace it with a bayonet lug and Springfield over tighten the sight so I had to buy a new front sight lol.
Hey! thanks for that information. I sighted my service grade M1 with my reloads on the rear sight only, and did not think I needed to do more adjustments. I will do this, and watch the other video on M1/M1a sights like you said! Keep that powder dry!
Now, you'll be able to confidently make windage and elevation corrections when needed, knowing that you can return to your original zero just by looking at the scale. God bless.
Love your channel...
This is a very interesting and informative video. I like the way this gentleman imparts his knowledge and understanding He leaves nothing to chance!
Good tip you can use on all types of iron sights with Dovetail slots. The measurements will be different but the results will still perform the same.🙂👍
I started shoot NRA matches in 1989 using my dads NM M1A, and no one ever taught me this procedure, thank you for this video.
Thank you for explaining it simply
Thank you for all your wonderful information. I used to have this kind of discussions all the time with my grandfather but he's gone now. I get the same feeling I did back then when I watch your videos. Ty for pointing toward Jesus as well. It speaks well of you.
Welcome back. It's been a while .
Thanks! Be sure to check out the 12 videos that I produced in just the last three weeks!
Each click represents 0.0078”, not 0.010”. WWII Garand drawings say the windage screw has 32-pitch threads. It turns 4 clicks per revolution, so 4 clicks are 0.03125”, not 0.040”. Other than that detail, the method outlined is useful and helpful.
Excellent information.
I like the 1943U.S Army field guide.But this man is great
Sir,
Thank you for sharing your time and wisdom. If time allows would you please do a video on how to properly peen the barrel to reduce side to side movement of the front sight/ gas cylinder on the M1 Garand. Thank you.
This makes me want an M1A just to try all these methods. I do like a project rifle.
Well done. Clear and simple.
Thanks for a good and informative video👍
you always have good videos. thanks
Thanks very much for showing this procedure. I've never it done this way and it's better than what I've seen in the past.
You are my fav firearm vlogger on CZcams. I have learned so much from you. Thank you.
LOVE this. Thank you !
love this guys, great info and you could just listen to this guys charming east coast drawl read the phone book, a fascinating pleasure to learn all these pro tips!
Thank you. Your videos are a valuable resource. I would feel confident trying this if I felt my M1 needed it. You are a great teacher. Love to Benny from my 5 beagles. They're in front of the wood stove too.
I like, since the barrel is in a vise and the vise is metal. I would use a travel indicator (with a magnet base) on the vise and put the indicator onto the front sight. then you could move the front sight exactly .030 in. also if it moved when you tighten it you would see it clearly.
Excellent presentation
Great tip.
You are an amazing pool of knowledge my friend... Thank you very much...
Great video! Very informative and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and wisdom! God bless you Sir!
Thank you and God bless.
thank you- clear, to the point and easy to understand
Excellent video. Thank you, GunBlue.
You're quite welcome! God bless.
Great tip. Thank you
Thank you
Thank you kindly!
...nice low 6 digit SN, my friend...
Great and informative video! Thank you 🇺🇸
Great info
Great video. Thank you.
Thank you good sir
I just bought my first m1a and now that ive seen this is this something i should do right away?
Thank you.
Great Video! I have an M1 Garand that shoots left. I've already taken it to the range and adjusted the windage to the right. However, I noticed that the front sight was set all the way to the left when I got it from the CMP. So from your video I know I have to still go left a bit on the front sight. Is it safe/correct to ever have that front sight hanging a bit off of the dovetail base? If not, what do you recommend? Thanks for all of your content and your time!
The front sight should not be moved so far that any portion of it is out of the dovetail track. Any further centering adjustment should be made with the rear sight. Although the rear sight may be off center, you'll simply have to make a mental note or jot it someplace about its zero position. These days, you can even take a photo of the zero position with a cell phone and keep it for reference. Good luck and God bless.
@@GunBlue490 Thanks for the advice. I'll be practicing leading up to the NM's at Camp Perry so I'll just make that mental note adjustment using the rear sight and get used to it. Thanks and God Bless!
Will that adjustment work on the scout rifle
Hi do you have a video on how to tighten the m1 Garand gas cylinder/ front sight to barrel spline fit? Mine is loose and I’d like to tighten the spline fit before I start moving the front sight block.
Thanks you make some great videos on gunsmithing.
Regards
Doug
I just put a Lyman peep on my Winchester model 94 but the sight picture confuses me.
Elevation not windage.
It always seems correct. Not fired the rifle yet though.
If it's a flat top front blade, place the top dead center. If it's a round bead, place the bead dead center. Your eye will figure it out naturally. That's about it!
So my rear sight does not move when the knob turns
An you do a video on the M1A rear sight. How to repair when the elevation knob turns but does move the peep sight, please
Your sight detents are stripped and must be replaced. I had the same problem. The part was soft. Call SA and request a replacement. Do not over tighten the windage knob screw.
What do you do for a stuck front sight screw
I would first apply a penetrating thread lubricant such as Liquid Wrench or Kroil and allow it to penetrate for 30 minutes. Use a very close fitting Allen wrench, seated fully, and attempt to unscrew it with firm pressure. If that doesn't work, wipe all oil off, and heat the screw with a pencil flame torch or solder iron for no more than 20 seconds, then try again. It should break free.
Can you give us a model of calipers olease
😃👍
Thanks for watching. Now, if you have a shorter SOCOM version, each click will represent a more coarse adjustment than 1 MOA with the same rear sight, due to the shorter sight radius, but the front sight will still be moved according to whatever your rear sight windage adjustment is. So while one click will be more on target, it still means .010 movement of the front sight.
@@GunBlue490 You must have read my mind I have both lol
@@socomsmith3241 I read your name!
@@GunBlue490 ah! I have a heavy Is 22" barrel and a scout squad.
Is that caliper from the 70’s? Great old tools. Know them n trust them.
It's not quite that old; about the late 80s. I started out with green nylon dial calipers from Lyman, until I could afford these. I still regard dial calipers as more reliable, and they need no batteries. The pointer is where it is.
They don't get much better than Mitutoyo. Top shelf tools.
Sir, I enjoy your videos very much. I recently purchased a M1 Garand from CMP. I know you have to be careful about shooting factory 30 06 loads in these rifles. Do you recommend using an adjustable gas plug? I reload and want to work up a low power load to shoot in my M1. What's your feelings on powder and bullets to use? You and Benny keep up the good work! Thank you.
I have a '53 H&R M1, I used to compete in local High Power Rifle matches with it and used my Reloads only, I started to work up loads beginning with commercial brass (Rem) and 155 gr. Sierra Match bullets, Federal LR primers, with 44 gr. of IMR 4895 eventually settling on 45 gr. @ 2630 +/- FPS. That said, I have since changed my loading (I no longer compete) to Lake City Arsenal brass, 147-150 gr. FMJ, CCI LR primers with 46 gr. of IMR 4895. There are are a bunch of loads for the M1 on line that are 'hotter' (up to 50 gr. of 4895) but as long as your rifle functions with lower charges, why 'beat it up' for a little higher velocity. M2 Ball Cal. .30 varied from a muzzle velocity of mid-2600's to the high 2700's in the 24" M1 barrel. Just some 'FYI' to a fellow 'M1 guy'.
Very good info plus I believe Hornaday and other manufacturers have several loads for the M1 Grand
Would you be interested in an apprentice? There aren't any gun smiths left alive in my area that I know of.
Can and Not move. Two words I butchered
Thank you