Climb DENT BLANCHE 4357m! Report from Ferpeclegrat and Wandfluegrat traverse.
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Ascent of west Ferpecle ridge to the summit of Dent Blanche 4 357 m. August 2020. Topo in english: skialp-freerid...
Climbing route:
- Dent Blanche Bivouac
- Ferpeclegrat - D/D+
- Summit 4 357 m
- Wandfluegrat - AD
- Cabane de la Dent Blanche
www.skialp-freeride.cz
/ skialpfreeride
/ skialp_freeride
Hello Tomas, Standa and Honza
I congratulate you on the great climb over the Ferpecle and Wandfluhgrat to the Dent Blanche. Thank you for the beautiful film. There are unforgettable memories.
I wish you good tours.
With alpine greetings
Raphael Wellig
Big thanks for watching Rapha!
Hello Tomas, Standa and Honza
Thanks a lot for your answer. I wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 2023 with many beautiful mountain tours.
With alpine greetings
Raphael Wellig
To je moc pěkný....Dent Blanche je jedna z mých Alpských priorit...budu rád i za normálku, i když tenhle hřeben za suchých podmínek bez sněhu taky vypadá dobře...
Ahoj, jsem rád, že se video líbilo. Tady máš report a topo, tak už stačí jen vyrazit ;-) skialp-freeride.cz/dent-blanche-ferpeclegrat/
hustý hustý
Great video! I am planning to climb DB in September with a friend + GUIDE.
I was wondering you can give me some insights about feasibility.
My previous experience:
- Mont Blanc (gouter route with guide) 2019
- Grossglockner (normal route with guide) 2020
- Zugspitze (höllental route without guide) 2020
2021 June: Dom via festigrat without guide (but 3 other experienced alpinists)
By the end of June I will also have my certificate of lead climbing.
At the moment I am able to lead climb up to grade 4, some grade 5 routes (but grade 5 - still feeling more comfortable top rope).
I believe the guide will always let us climb top rope and secure us?
Do you think it's feasible with my previous experience?
Physically I'm ready :)
Thanks!
Hey, thanks for watching! It really depends if you want to climb normal route (south ridge), or Ferpecle ridge (west). You are more then prepared for normal route probably even without a guide. Nothing too challenging over there. But Ferpecle has few places with 3-4 diff. UIAA, navigation is problematic and while tour from bivac to the hut is reeeeally long ;-) You can find ENG Topo here: "Dent Blanche 4 357m, Ferpecle Grat, D+ - skialp-freeride.cz" skialp-freeride.cz/dent-blanche-4357m-ferpeclegrat/. But still, with your experience or even with guide, even Ferpecle is possible for you...
Hard to judge based on your experience, its way different to lead climb on a well-bolted sport climbing route from scrambling on a classic alpin routes with just trekking shoes on. Even the normal route of dent blanche is scarcelly bolted and there are couple of casualties each year. Normal route of Zugspitze is an easy klletersteig, even Jubileumsgrat is just a walk, Festigrat can be tricky under icy conditions, no beaten track and just one ice axe. I would definitely recommend trying studlgrat on grossglockner first (next level hintergrat on ortler) before considering dent blanche
@@libornolc2592 Hey, you seem to have great experience in this area. I did every route you mentioned except from Festigrat. I did all of them as daytrips, so my fitness should not be the problem. Can you recommend some routes around Zermatt similar to Stüdlgrat difficulty? We thought about Zinalrothorn normalroute, or the Fletschhorn-Lagginhorn traverse...
Also, have you done Biancograt, and how would you compare it to the other routes i mentioned?
Hello David, we did Biancograt with Libor together and comparing to Dent Blanche normal route it is little bit easier, more snow/ice climbing (or better say walking), lower altitude, easier climbing, but really long route and with the hardest part almost at the summit. I didn't like too many people over there resulting in queues on some places. You should plan this route according to weather, you don't want to have too much of new snow or clean water ice over there...
aspoň trochu tepla na závěr:D