Forget about cutting anything other than paneling or thin plywood ... even 3/4" ply bogs it down a lot even when cutting a very VERY slow path. Probably Works great czcams.com/users/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c on drywall but who needs the mess of dust flying everywhere when a knife cut will do. Oh, and the red tab on the guard blocks your view of the cutting line once the blade is fully engaged in a cut.
Since I ran a sharpening business back in the mid 70's, I already knew how to sharpen saw blades. As several other guys have stated, blades are either angled left and right to be sharpened that way unless it a flat ground blade. Also, as others have mentioned, that diamond sharpening blade is okay to do the initial grind on very badly messed up blades, you then need to go to a finer grind wheel to help with the sharpening, but then you need to go to at least a 500 grit grind wheel to hone the saw blade. The original grit on the grind wheel it comes with is a 120 grit blade which is way too coarse for final sharpening. You need to go to at least a 280 or 320 grit before using a 500 grit.
hey, don't be so picky, this isn't for the professional, its for us people out here in the woods that don't want to run 30 miles into town to pay someone to sharpen a blade> Gezz, its a damn $50 sharpener, beats the hell out of using a grinderl in which I had to do ..
@@cferguson6688 One should ALWAYS try to do the job RIGHT; regardless of their education or lack thereof; not to mention that "if you can't do it RIGHT don't do it at all". Because IF you do not follow this golden rule, your life will be as this BrushRadical lives. IE: Having tools that he has to "work around", because they have not done what they should have. Oh indeed yes. Believe it or not.
@@MrPatdeeee I agree somewhat, but some of these people are comparing this little machine to thousand dollar machines and they are stationary to get it "precise on". Of course it isn't going to be "right on". Otheres and myself agree, if the blade gets sharp and does the job, then the job was done right not matter if its not "right on". THAT is what I was getting at. The way your sounding is that "no one " should buy this and spend the money and time to go to town to a blade sharpened. Oh yea, I use to go and have the blades "professionally" sharpened until the sharpening place closed down, now I would have to drive 50 miles one way to do this, cheaper to just buy a new blade then. The little machines save money and time and gets the job done. That is all that matters to me.
Question sir... I was told that tungsten carbide teeth are square to the blade but regular blades are mitered. The carbide teeth are thicker than the blade so the cut provides the clearance needed but a 'regular' steel blade has the mitered teeth to achieve the clearance needed, cutting the left side, then the right side, alternately. Is this true?
Bought one of these a couple years ago and never got it set up. It has been sitting in my office with a chop saw blade on it since the day I took it out of the box. Finally decided to watch someone use it! Now I think I’ll get my stack of old blades and get them working again! Thanks for the good video!
Really well done Dave! I have to agree, this is by far the most competent review of this product yet. Thanks for taking the time to produce this video! Cheers ...
PRO TIP - The blades have right and left hand teeth. Each side must be sharpened separately with a 20-25 degree angle (similar to a chainsaw teeth). There is a setting on the back of tthe machine in order to tilt the motor to accomadate this needed angle. This one adjustment will make the blades cut smoother and cleaner!
Derrick Wood, Absolutely. That's why every OTHER tooth is making heavy contact with the diamond wheel. Just cut the life out of that blade in half, at least.
The kerf of the saw blade is very important because the cutting edge angle of the blade needs a relief angle provided by every other blade so as to reduce the friction of the blade cut and provide longer blade life! Obvious, both the instructions and the presenter, do not know the geometry of a saw blade!
The "right and left hand" is called fleam. Fleam is usually slight, or neutral, in a rip blade and more pronounced in a cross cut blade. A chop saw should have a cross cut geometry so my first thought was the same... running each tooth through that sharpener without changing the angle will ruin the original tooth geometry.
Yet another great informative and instructional video to watch and enjoy. A problem i get on my saw blade is not always that they go dull, but the teeth get a build up of resin on the side and back of the teeth. This I find leads to burn marks appearing on the cut surfaces, especially so on hard woods. Every so often i just take the time to clean the blade and it makes a big difference. David in the U.K.
I bought one about four years ago just to see how it worked like you did. I sharpened the blade on my Ryobi chopsaw just like the one you have. And low and behold it was cutting near perfect. Was it worth the $49.95.? Heck yeah. I sharpened about 18 blades of all different kinds and then try them out. They worked good. Your review was just like I felt and experienced. Excellent review Brad
Very useful video. I have accumulated a box of blades over the last 30 years that I have never gotten around to resharpening and this will turn a 3 week job into a day or two. Thanks man
Or maybe a couple of hours. I clean the pitch from the blades by soaking them in a pan of Simple Green from a couple of hours to overnight, then use WD40 to prevent rust. The cleaning/soaking takes most of the time.
I agree 100% with what you were saying about a cup of coffee and taking the time at the end of the day. Been fixing stuff my whole life, partly due to lack of money but a lot of times back in the day here in rural Alaska you had to fix it or do without. That was way back before the throwaway economy and all of the big box stores. The way I see it is if your option is buying a new one or repairing the one you have then, the time spent divided into the replacement cost becomes your value per hour of your time. Of course sometimes it works out where your time has no value in which case you chalk it up to honing or learning new skills or just practice. Thanks for the review of the sharpener. Think I'll be adding that one to the tool pile.
Dave I use to use and collect all my friends metal drill bits because my grandad gave me a drill bit sharpener and before then I’d grab a new drill bit or cut it on the edge off a grinder until the drill bit sharpener now I just save them up in a box until I need one and stick the radio on and sharpen 30/40 at a go I hate throwing stuff away and at first I thought it was a gimmick when he gave it to me and showed me how to use it I’ve had it now going on 8 years and it’s still going strong your videos do make me smile because your resourceful Thank you
Thanks for showing this. I've got several dozen blades that need sharpening which would cost $288 At the saw shop. I'll have to give it a shot this weekend and pay myself instead. Most blades being the same styles will help minimize setup times. It's ordered.
I'll definitely have to check one of those out myself, thanks Dave! BTW...I've had good luck with the Harbor Freight chainsaw chain sharpener. Had mine for about 4 years and it's really come in handy and makes quick work of sharpening chains.
And , despite having to watch the grinding action a bit too often, the different angles helped answer some questions. Liked the different size diameter demonstration as well...but the question that brought me here is - how to sharpen hole saws?
Bushradical Good video and review friend! I’m seeing this tool online for $55-$70 new, less for used. I’m a woodworker, not in concrete, short of small jobs. Wondering if a steel blade would be best for your dirty lumber for concrete work. Carbide doesn’t like sand and minerals. I’d think you’d be loosing teeth with a carbide blade on that type of lumber. Also, wondering if adjusting blade stop on steel in gullet, below the carbide would give more consistent tooth grind. If carbide tooth is chipped, you’d end up with different grind depths I’d think. Thoughts? Also, for dedicated wood working, I’d spend the extra bucks on a bit better blade. If wood being cut is clean, they’ll stay sharp a good while. The red Freuds are a great mid range economical choice. For high end, Forrest is hard to beat. As to the question of hole saw sharpening - I haven’t tried that yet. I’d think Dremel or hand file, and a steady hand, might be the only options there.
I, also, found the presentation to be logical, well presented and very informative - as opposed to other, not-so-well-done, ones from other sources. Based on the clearly and logically done content I chose to buy a sharpener, too. I have plenty of blades to work on and I'm sure the neighbors will have even more, too. The clear camera work was exceptionally well done as well.
Hi Dave, great review bud. Love when you review things, both new and old, your honest and detailed description make them all worth watching, thanks for sharing, Rock On!
Yup, every other tooth is different. That's why the grinding blade hogged in on every other tooth. Should have checheed the pitch and skipped one all the way around. Then reset the grinder for the new angle an cut every other one all the way around
Nice show and tell video with great description and instruction, a good fair and honest endorsement from someone who uses tools for a living, well done Dave :) stay warm, be safe.
Great review, I burn a lot of wood especially old pallets lots of nails and crap to cut through. I will be investing in one of these. Use old transmission fluid in a squirt bottle on the blade every pallet or two keeps the blades cleaner longer
I was at Harbor Freight today and saw this sharpener. I wanted to see a demo/review before buying. My questions are answered... great video thanks. Like and subscribed.
@@Bushradical I did some research it is commonly 1075 or 1084 both would be good for knife blades. I may try one and see and will let you know. I often see old saw blades at yard sale for nothing so it may be a good source of cheap steel.
Great video....funny thing, I've had that exact tool for several several years...still in the box right next to my stack of dull blades... Now that I know it works..... I'll set it up and get to sharpening ... 👍👍👍
I've owned one for 6+ years. I dress my finish blades as soon as they start to show fuzz or chipping. For an inexpensive machine it's held up well and it's saved me a lot of money in not replacing blades! Joinery requires extremely sharp tools!
Very useful video! There are several of these grinders around with different logos on them so this will be applicable to most of them. This is what I need!! Thank you!
I do a LOT of hobby woodworking, using all sorts of soft and hard woods. and over the last 3 or 4 years that i've owned this machine i cant even estimate how much money it has saved me... YES it takes some fiddling to get set up right but once done, i've sharpened half dozen blades in prob way less than an hour start to finish. have not bought a new blade in in at least 5 years. at some point the carbide will wear down into the socket in the gullet, and by then i'll feel justified in buying new, but for the forseeable future, i'll just keep sharpenin' away. great value for $$
I have one and the motor tilts, if I find my blade has alternate angles i can tilt the motor, sharpen every other one then go back to the beginning, tilt the motor the other way and sharpen the others, trust me it's a great machine
Very nice video and thanks for explaining how the sharpener works. Don't really feel like arguing with anyone but I took a look at an old blade of mine and the faces were all set 90 degrees to the body of the blade, so the procedure you outlined will work perfectly. There may indeed be blades where the grind of the face is at angles with the body of the blade and so you would have to take that into account if you have such a blade. In the blade I have, the tops of the teeth do indeed alternate angles, but that is a function of how the top of the teeth are ground. I've read that this sharpener will do that but my opinion is that if you have a sharp edge on that tooth, it really wouldn't make much of a difference. Mind you, I don't need super fine cuts to do the work I do.
Fantastic review. You did a great job of showing what you were doing and why. I will buy one after seeing your review. Thanks for sharing and well done.
Hi Jim. Your best indexing off the gullet as the last tooth to grind will be indexed off the first tooth which has already been ground. Also if the blade has a tooth missing you've got nothing to index off. Tony
As ProTip pointed out, there are left hand and right hand kerfs on any blade. Some high end finish cut carbide blades have a center chisel tooth every third tooth. When sharpening high and low end blades you should expect to re-set the machine for each tooth condition ie. every other tooth is facing right or left with a corresponding angle so on a low end blade you need to do half the teeth in one direction and then flip. On some high end finish blades you will need a third process for the chisel tooth configuration
ATB tooth set up or ATBR tooth set up. There are just Flat top tooth blades which are basically all raker teeth. These blades are used for joinery work or ripping.
@@Bushradical So far so good said the guy from the eightieth floor to the ground......Am a bit leery of the wobbly chop saw at 11:12 but good video demo of the sharpener overall....Thanks
Great review, I didn't know HB had one! I keep buying cheap blades for my skill saw (not Skill brand) and before I know it, its dull! I have also seen blades that threw me off my line because the two sides were sharpened unevenly. So make sure you are considering the two sides of the blade and its angle or it can drag you off line.
I bought it today, decided to give it a shot and after watching your video as well as a few other I set it up. I sharpened 4 blades and more to go. It does a great job sharpening the blades. I have trouble getting the horizontal blade arm to stop moving... If I tighten it any more I would probably snap the knob off. As for the bolt that tightens the Guide Arm it's neither Metric or standard and using the adjustable will eventually strip out. Same goes for the Bolt that secures stop for the blade alignment. All and all for the price you can't go wrong. Great video, thank you.
Great video. I’ve been looking at that HF sharpener for 2 years now, but haven’t seen a review yet that has convinced until now. You’ve done a great job with the review. I’m headed to HF to get a blade sharpener because I have a life time of saved blades that need sharping. Have a blessed day. After watching the video, I subscribed, I want to see more. Keep up the good videos.
They do adjust to sharpen the alternating angles of saw teeth.....I didn't cover that in this video because I didn't know it was adjustable at the time. Good luck
Thanks for the video Rad, you have made a believer out of me. Also, I like your style and after a few more videos I believe you could be a leading man in a movie!
@@Bushradical Try oven cleaner on them with a wire brush. Then give it a good rinse off afterwards. A plastic bucket lid makes a great tub for cleaning saw blades in. When I'm done after a rinse I give my blades a shot of WD-40 too. Helps keep them from rusting up.
Diesel fuel and emery cloth works decently. For rust, 48 hours in apple cider vinegar will have rust wiping right off. Mind you, you'll have to put a light coat of oil on them afterwards.
I really liked the video, you've shown how to use it better than anyone else on CZcams. Now, I agree with GR, clean the blade of rust and other ick and it should be better!
The contrast in tooth grind is most probably due to the crosscut blade as opposed to a rip blade ( which is what this sharpener is designed for. It’s for flat faced ripping blades. It doesn’t address the alternating bevel blades of a more complex blade designed for combination cuts or specific cross cuts. Nonetheless a sharp blade is better than a dull blade even if it’s grind is less efficient
Thanks man! I bought one a few years ago but didn't get around to setting it up to use it. I have at least 10 dull blades and like you the blade on my combo chop saw is dull as crap. You got me motivated to get r done. Thanks
You should also be able to pitch that diamond wheel and motor forward or backward and sharpen every other tooth then pitch the diamond wheel and motor the other way and sharpen the rest of the teeth.
i believe you only need to touch each tooth once, probably a little sooner than when it starts throwing smoke though, and notice next time youre aat the store the 100$ blades have alot more carbide on them than the 40$ ones, so you can sharpen them 8-12 times rather than 2-4 times and theyll last alot longer and cut cleaner between sharpenings.. might have a dedicated blade for the concrete uincrusted nail embedded wood though
I did a review on this tool here years ago. It works pretty good but I only delegate it to older blades. My good ones I send out to be professionally sharpened. Another note: If you look at the directions I think you left out a very important part. Notice underneath the sharpening wheel there is a place to put an allen wrench in and tilt the whole motor/sharpener unit up or down. One tooth needs to be sharpened at one (+) angle and the other at another (-) angle. This is how a saw blade works. The same reason teeth are offset on a handsaw. Your blades would cut much better if you did that. So you sharpen every other tooth in one angle then change it and do the other teeth the negative angle.
Thanks Daniel....but I don't understand exactly what you mean. Ive been hand sharpening saws for years. I know all about set. These teeth have alternating tips (left /right) when you look at the blade face one.....but the faces of the carbides themselves seem to be totally flat like a rip saw.
Yes, I should have said tooth angle. The term 'set' is only used for handsaws. Most circular saw blade types have alternating angles. If you don't tilt the grinding wheel, each angle will be square. Here is a graphic I found that shows different blades and angles. And, look beneath the grinding wheel. There is a -10 degree and +10 degree adjustment for just this purpose. The directions that came with the device go into length about making this adjustment. s26462.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/Sawblades_5F00_anatomy1.jpg Also, a link to the old 2012 video I did on this. It shows me doing it. czcams.com/video/qBSjO0HKBDM/video.html On another note: Nice cleanly done video BTW.....
Soak the blades in a pan with Simple Green for a couple hours to overnight, use old toothbrush for scrubbing. WD40 for rust. Works great and inexpensive.
I bought one 2 years ago and sharpened all those old blades that I was going to send out. Well worth the money, clean the pitch from blade, soak blade but in a pan of Simple Green for a couple of hours to overnight and use an old toothbrush for scrubbing, after cleaning use WD40 to prevent rust.
Nice review. Tip: Mark the tooth you start with a felt tip marker. Tip: When you find a tooth where it barely touches put a dot on that tooth. When one misses, put 2 dots. After you make the first round, move the stop up by a bit (This tool needs a screw adjustment for that.) and regrind all the teeth. Repeat this until it has the same contact on all teeth. In theory you need to do the top face of the teeth too. This one doesn't seem to be able to do that.
Looks like your purchase of the saw blade sharpener was better than my drill bit sharpener who's tolerances were designed by the hand grenades and horse shoe engineers specifications
I applaud you for your great video showing precisely the steps and mechanics of this machine. I can see the issues which I know will be problematic on this device due to its design, and the imperfect condition of older blades. The "stop" for the blade tooth is never accurate from tooth to tooth, some will be damaged or more or less worn, and the next tooth will not contact the diamond blade accurately or at all, so care must be taken to adjust the teeth at each step. I would have gone with a two step process for advancing teeth. First advance the machine to a static guard set to the placement of the grinding wheel (part of the grinding wheel guard itself), lock the blade, remove the static guard by pulling the lever and grind the tooth, the second arm is not needed at all.
I like this video ! If nothing else this is a honest review ! What is more is the fact that you really can get a no cutting blade to cut again ! A highbrow cabinet-maker is liable to tell you This can not be done ! I am not a cabinet-maker ! If it cuts it cuts :) Best TU U and TNX
Forget about cutting anything other than paneling or thin plywood ... even 3/4" ply bogs it down a lot even when cutting a very VERY slow path. Probably Works great czcams.com/users/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c on drywall but who needs the mess of dust flying everywhere when a knife cut will do. Oh, and the red tab on the guard blocks your view of the cutting line once the blade is fully engaged in a cut.
Since I ran a sharpening business back in the mid 70's, I already knew how to sharpen saw blades. As several other guys have stated, blades are either angled left and right to be sharpened that way unless it a flat ground blade. Also, as others have mentioned, that diamond sharpening blade is okay to do the initial grind on very badly messed up blades, you then need to go to a finer grind wheel to help with the sharpening, but then you need to go to at least a 500 grit grind wheel to hone the saw blade. The original grit on the grind wheel it comes with is a 120 grit blade which is way too coarse for final sharpening. You need to go to at least a 280 or 320 grit before using a 500 grit.
hey, don't be so picky, this isn't for the professional, its for us people out here in the woods that don't want to run 30 miles into town to pay someone to sharpen a blade> Gezz, its a damn $50 sharpener, beats the hell out of using a grinderl in which I had to do ..
@@cferguson6688 One should ALWAYS try to do the job RIGHT; regardless of their education or lack thereof; not to mention that "if you can't do it RIGHT don't do it at all". Because IF you do not follow this golden rule, your life will be as this BrushRadical lives. IE:
Having tools that he has to "work around", because they have not done what they should have. Oh indeed yes. Believe it or not.
@@MrPatdeeee I agree somewhat, but some of these people are comparing this little machine to thousand dollar machines and they are stationary to get it "precise on". Of course it isn't going to be "right on". Otheres and myself agree, if the blade gets sharp and does the job, then the job was done right not matter if its not "right on". THAT is what I was getting at. The way your sounding is that "no one " should buy this and spend the money and time to go to town to a blade sharpened. Oh yea, I use to go and have the blades "professionally" sharpened until the sharpening place closed down, now I would have to drive 50 miles one way to do this, cheaper to just buy a new blade then. The little machines save money and time and gets the job done. That is all that matters to me.
thorlo6 I’m glad you’ve explained what a professional think of this. I have a clearer view now. Thx
Question sir... I was told that tungsten carbide teeth are square to the blade but regular blades are mitered. The carbide teeth are thicker than the blade so the cut provides the clearance needed but a 'regular' steel blade has the mitered teeth to achieve the clearance needed, cutting the left side, then the right side, alternately.
Is this true?
Bought one of these a couple years ago and never got it set up. It has been sitting in my office with a chop saw blade on it since the day I took it out of the box. Finally decided to watch someone use it! Now I think I’ll get my stack of old blades and get them working again! Thanks for the good video!
Really well done Dave! I have to agree, this is by far the most competent review of this product yet. Thanks for taking the time to produce this video! Cheers ...
Thanks
PRO TIP -
The blades have right and left hand teeth. Each side must be sharpened separately with a 20-25 degree angle (similar to a chainsaw teeth). There is a setting on the back of tthe machine in order to tilt the motor to accomadate this needed angle. This one adjustment will make the blades cut smoother and cleaner!
Derrick Wood,
Absolutely. That's why every OTHER tooth is making heavy contact with the diamond wheel.
Just cut the life out of that blade in half, at least.
I was suspicious about this. Not all blades are the same angle. Thanks for letting us know about the adjustment on the back. I hope he sees this.
Indeed! The lack of alternating set angles was the first thing I wondered about as I watched him set it up.
Thanks for the tip!
The kerf of the saw blade is very important because the cutting edge angle of the blade needs a relief angle provided by every other blade so as to reduce the friction of the blade cut and provide longer blade life! Obvious, both the instructions and the presenter, do not know the geometry of a saw blade!
The "right and left hand" is called fleam. Fleam is usually slight, or neutral, in a rip blade and more pronounced in a cross cut blade. A chop saw should have a cross cut geometry so my first thought was the same... running each tooth through that sharpener without changing the angle will ruin the original tooth geometry.
Compliments on your editing and camera work. And also keeping your video short to-the-point and focused.
Thanks Leo
Excellent Vid. Bought this 6 years ago, and haven't used it. Your instructions saved me a lot of time. Thx,
Yet another great informative and instructional video to watch and enjoy. A problem i get on my saw blade is not always that they go dull, but the teeth get a build up of resin on the side and back of the teeth. This I find leads to burn marks appearing on the cut surfaces, especially so on hard woods. Every so often i just take the time to clean the blade and it makes a big difference.
David in the U.K.
I have one,I have used it for years and still using the first set of blades .I have sharpened many blades of all sizes.
L)
J H Thanks for this. I’ve got one, but I’ve yet to use it because, as usual, HF instruction manuals are lacking.
I bought one about four years ago just to see how it worked like you did. I sharpened the blade on my Ryobi chopsaw just like the one you have. And low and behold it was cutting near perfect. Was it worth the $49.95.? Heck yeah. I sharpened about 18 blades of all different kinds and then try them out. They worked good. Your review was just like I felt and experienced. Excellent review
Brad
Thanks Bradley
Very good review..thanks for all the tips on sharpening saw blades..I have about 20 dull blades...no more. I'm sold...
Very useful video. I have accumulated a box of blades over the last 30 years that I have never gotten around to resharpening and this will turn a 3 week job into a day or two. Thanks man
Let me know how you like it.
Or maybe a couple of hours. I clean the pitch from the blades by soaking them in a pan of Simple Green from a couple of hours to overnight, then use WD40 to prevent rust. The cleaning/soaking takes most of the time.
I never knew this tool existed - thank you for the review; I love your style !!
Thanks Robert.
I agree 100% with what you were saying about a cup of coffee and taking the time at the end of the day. Been fixing stuff my whole life, partly due to lack of money but a lot of times back in the day here in rural Alaska you had to fix it or do without. That was way back before the throwaway economy and all of the big box stores.
The way I see it is if your option is buying a new one or repairing the one you have then, the time spent divided into the replacement cost becomes your value per hour of your time. Of course sometimes it works out where your time has no value in which case you chalk it up to honing or learning new skills or just practice.
Thanks for the review of the sharpener. Think I'll be adding that one to the tool pile.
Thanks Rabbycracker. Where in Alaska are you. I have a place north of Fairbanks
Thank you for the close ups. Very helpful.
Your ol’ chopsaw was given a new life.
Thanks
Dave I use to use and collect all my friends metal drill bits because my grandad gave me a drill bit sharpener and before then I’d grab a new drill bit or cut it on the edge off a grinder until the drill bit sharpener now I just save them up in a box until I need one and stick the radio on and sharpen 30/40 at a go I hate throwing stuff away and at first I thought it was a gimmick when he gave it to me and showed me how to use it I’ve had it now going on 8 years and it’s still going strong your videos do make me smile because your resourceful
Thank you
Thanks Marvell.
Thanks for showing this. I've got several dozen blades that need sharpening which would cost $288 At the saw shop. I'll have to give it a shot this weekend and pay myself instead. Most blades being the same styles will help minimize setup times. It's ordered.
I'll definitely have to check one of those out myself, thanks Dave!
BTW...I've had good luck with the Harbor Freight chainsaw chain sharpener. Had mine for about 4 years and it's really come in handy and makes quick work of sharpening chains.
Thanks for the tip
Great video, it speaks for itself when you sharpened the 12 inch that was smoking and didn't when you sharpened it says it all.
Pretty awesome review and demo Dave! Thanks for making me feel good about the unit I just bought and am now setting up!
Thanks Dave! I'll be getting one for sure 👍
I believe this could easily be the best video review so far on this machine. I like your properly focused close ups as well.
Thanks!
And , despite having to watch the grinding action a bit too often, the different angles helped answer some questions.
Liked the different size diameter demonstration as well...but the question that brought me here is - how to sharpen hole saws?
Bushradical
Good video and review friend!
I’m seeing this tool online for $55-$70 new, less for used.
I’m a woodworker, not in concrete, short of small jobs.
Wondering if a steel blade would be best for your dirty lumber for concrete work. Carbide doesn’t like sand and minerals. I’d think you’d be loosing teeth with a carbide blade on that type of lumber.
Also, wondering if adjusting blade stop on steel in gullet, below the carbide would give more consistent tooth grind. If carbide tooth is chipped, you’d end up with different grind depths I’d think. Thoughts?
Also, for dedicated wood working, I’d spend the extra bucks on a bit better blade. If wood being cut is clean, they’ll stay sharp a good while. The red Freuds are a great mid range economical choice. For high end, Forrest is hard to beat.
As to the question of hole saw sharpening - I haven’t tried that yet. I’d think Dremel or hand file, and a steady hand, might be the only options there.
I, also, found the presentation to be logical, well presented and very informative - as opposed to other, not-so-well-done, ones from other sources.
Based on the clearly and logically done content I chose to buy a sharpener, too. I have plenty of blades to work on and I'm sure the neighbors will have even more, too.
The clear camera work was exceptionally well done as well.
Well done
Hi Dave, great review bud. Love when you review things, both new and old, your honest and detailed description make them all worth watching, thanks for sharing, Rock On!
Thanks Z. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the straight, honest review much appreciated!
Yup, every other tooth is different. That's why the grinding blade hogged in on every other tooth. Should have checheed the pitch and skipped one all the way around. Then reset the grinder for the new angle an cut every other one all the way around
Nice show and tell video with great description and instruction, a good fair and honest endorsement from someone who uses tools for a living, well done Dave :) stay warm, be safe.
Thanks Gordon
Good straightforward review , I wish more people would do the same . Thank you , have a kick ass week .
Thanks
I have one of those, they do the job pretty good, not perfect, but good enough. Well worth the money.
Great review, I burn a lot of wood especially old pallets lots of nails and crap to cut through. I will be investing in one of these. Use old transmission fluid in a squirt bottle on the blade every pallet or two keeps the blades cleaner longer
great review. Good demo, no BS, all useful info. Thanks man.
Much appreciated!
Very informative. Thanks for taking the time!
Always mark starting point and one pass is enough.great vid and machine.
Thumbs up for sure,ty for sharing your review on it👍😊...
Thanks Cheryl!
I just bought one of these and then decided to do some digging if it was worth it. Thank you for your review. Really set my mind at ease.
Thanks
I was at Harbor Freight today and saw this sharpener. I wanted to see a demo/review before buying. My questions are answered... great video thanks. Like and subscribed.
Dave I love your channel! You don’t just throw money away. Most guys would spend 35$ and buy a new blade... I like your style!👍
Thanks Ddbronco! I like making things work again.
@@Bushradical I did some research it is commonly 1075 or 1084 both would be good for knife blades. I may try one and see and will let you know. I often see old saw blades at yard sale for nothing so it may be a good source of cheap steel.
@@kevintulak9987 Thanks. for the very good two tips.
most guys also would be back in the stone age if the walmart went down for a few days hahah
@@justpettet3506 since they put all the old regular places out of business with predatory pricing, that is the way the cookie crumbles.
Great video....funny thing, I've had that exact tool for several several years...still in the box right next to my stack of dull blades... Now that I know it works..... I'll set it up and get to sharpening ... 👍👍👍
right on
Excellent review and great filming. Thanks for taking the time to make it!
Thanks
I am writing from Brazil to thank you for your great video and for your excellent explanation. Thank you very much and success!
I've owned one for 6+ years. I dress my finish blades as soon as they start to show fuzz or chipping. For an inexpensive machine it's held up well and it's saved me a lot of money in not replacing blades! Joinery requires extremely sharp tools!
right on
Great tool for your demo nail cutting blades. angle issues and also hoe coarse the diamond blade is.
I enjoy watching Dave do stuff, I love the Busradical Channel.
Very useful video! There are several of these grinders around with different logos on them so this will be applicable to most of them. This is what I need!! Thank you!
I do a LOT of hobby woodworking, using all sorts of soft and hard woods. and over the last 3 or 4 years that i've owned this machine i cant even estimate how much money it has saved me... YES it takes some fiddling to get set up right but once done, i've sharpened half dozen blades in prob way less than an hour start to finish. have not bought a new blade in in at least 5 years. at some point the carbide will wear down into the socket in the gullet, and by then i'll feel justified in buying new, but for the forseeable future, i'll just keep sharpenin' away. great value for $$
Right on!!
I have one and the motor tilts, if I find my blade has alternate angles i can tilt the motor, sharpen every other one then go back to the beginning, tilt the motor the other way and sharpen the others, trust me it's a great machine
Good job, sir. Felt like an honest review. Good explanation of how to use it and helpful selection of test blades.
Thanks
A really nice and simple guide! Thank You!
I'm so old, I can remember when half a decade was five years!
Well, you definitely sold it to me!! I like it. I like tools
Thank you.
Thanks Dave. Very good review. Might have to grab one of those at some point.
Nicely done review. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice video and thanks for explaining how the sharpener works. Don't really feel like arguing with anyone but I took a look at an old blade of mine and the faces were all set 90 degrees to the body of the blade, so the procedure you outlined will work perfectly. There may indeed be blades where the grind of the face is at angles with the body of the blade and so you would have to take that into account if you have such a blade. In the blade I have, the tops of the teeth do indeed alternate angles, but that is a function of how the top of the teeth are ground. I've read that this sharpener will do that but my opinion is that if you have a sharp edge on that tooth, it really wouldn't make much of a difference. Mind you, I don't need super fine cuts to do the work I do.
You can set the angle on the sharpener.
The areas you pointed out where you think it’s been attempted to be sharpened are most likely where metal has been removed to balance the blade.
Gullet difference is when they balanced the blade after attaching carbide teeth.
Great video! That explain why my saw produced lots of smoke and how to fix it.
Fantastic review. You did a great job of showing what you were doing and why. I will buy one after seeing your review. Thanks for sharing and well done.
Thanks
Here’s a tip , mark the first tooth with a sharpie so you know when you’ve made the full circle.
Hi Jim. Your best indexing off the gullet as the last tooth to grind will be indexed off the first tooth
which has already been ground. Also if the blade has a tooth missing you've got nothing to index off. Tony
As ProTip pointed out, there are left hand and right hand kerfs on any blade. Some high end finish cut carbide blades have a center chisel tooth every third tooth. When sharpening high and low end blades you should expect to re-set the machine for each tooth condition ie. every other tooth is facing right or left with a corresponding angle so on a low end blade you need to do half the teeth in one direction and then flip. On some high end finish blades you will need a third process for the chisel tooth configuration
ATB tooth set up or ATBR tooth set up. There are just Flat top tooth blades which are basically all raker teeth. These blades are used for joinery work or ripping.
I have one and have not used it yet. Can't wait to get going. I have lots of blades that need work. Thanks for Vid.
Thanks
Dude! Great work! We definitely owe you a beer!! You're a breath of fresh air in this "throw away" society! Best of luck!
Thanks JS! I'll take that beer anytime!
Bro, your tools scare me. Thank you for making this video. Thank god you still have all your fingers.
LOL, never even nicked myself
@@Bushradical So far so good said the guy from the eightieth floor to the ground......Am a bit leery of the wobbly chop saw at 11:12 but good video demo of the sharpener overall....Thanks
Great review, I didn't know HB had one! I keep buying cheap blades for my skill saw (not Skill brand) and before I know it, its dull! I have also seen blades that threw me off my line because the two sides were sharpened unevenly. So make sure you are considering the two sides of the blade and its angle or it can drag you off line.
soune good to me I sharper some to
I bought it today, decided to give it a shot and after watching your video as well as a few other I set it up. I sharpened 4 blades and more to go. It does a great job sharpening the blades. I have trouble getting the horizontal blade arm to stop moving... If I tighten it any more I would probably snap the knob off. As for the bolt that tightens the Guide Arm it's neither Metric or standard and using the adjustable will eventually strip out. Same goes for the Bolt that secures stop for the blade alignment. All and all for the price you can't go wrong. Great video, thank you.
Thanks
Try putting a lock washer, had the same problem. Adding the lock washer dit the trick.
Great video. I’ve been looking at that HF sharpener for 2 years now, but haven’t seen a review yet that has convinced until now.
You’ve done a great job with the review. I’m headed to HF to get a blade sharpener because I have a life time of saved blades that need sharping. Have a blessed day.
After watching the video, I subscribed, I want to see more. Keep up the good videos.
They do adjust to sharpen the alternating angles of saw teeth.....I didn't cover that in this video because I didn't know it was adjustable at the time. Good luck
Good vid and verdict. Well done!
from the final cuts you showed ... every basic carpentery/framing i guess it´ll still pay off buddy! =) got ur point.
Totally worth it Dave, another great honest review as expected.
Thanks Dano.
Thanks for the video Rad, you have made a believer out of me. Also, I like your style and after a few more videos I believe you could be a leading man in a movie!
Thanks !!
Dave clean the pitch from your blades will help greatly in cutting also.
Thanks GR.
@@Bushradical Try oven cleaner on them with a wire brush. Then give it a good rinse off afterwards. A plastic bucket lid makes a great tub for cleaning saw blades in. When I'm done after a rinse I give my blades a shot of WD-40 too. Helps keep them from rusting up.
Diesel fuel and emery cloth works decently. For rust, 48 hours in apple cider vinegar will have rust wiping right off. Mind you, you'll have to put a light coat of oil on them afterwards.
I really liked the video, you've shown how to use it better than anyone else on CZcams. Now, I agree with GR, clean the blade of rust and other ick and it should be better!
Gerald Roth cleaning them really does help. Just learned about it recently and just tried it and it works so much better
The contrast in tooth grind is most probably due to the crosscut blade as opposed to a rip blade ( which is what this sharpener is designed for. It’s for flat faced ripping blades. It doesn’t address the alternating bevel blades of a more complex blade designed for combination cuts or specific cross cuts. Nonetheless a sharp blade is better than a dull blade even if it’s grind is less efficient
Interesting. I was able to get the angles out of it for that, albeit not a very precise tool.
thank you for your honest review, I am a big fan and I wish you all the best. looking forward to see you here in Arizona ...
Thanks Reza. But I don't know when I would ever get to Arizona.
Thanks man! I bought one a few years ago but didn't get around to setting it up to use it. I have at least 10 dull blades and like you the blade on my combo chop saw is dull as crap. You got me motivated to get r done. Thanks
Good luck!
Anyone else freeze watching this? Otherwise great vid. I'm sold.
LOL, thanks
Yep
Great video! Thanks
You should also be able to pitch that diamond wheel and motor forward or backward and sharpen every other tooth then pitch the diamond wheel and motor the other way and sharpen the rest of the teeth.
agreed.. like when you get them professionally sharpened
You are absolutely correct.
so then there are different angles on every other tooth?
John Boehm opposite angles yes on some blades similar to how a chainsaw is sharpened.
@@johnboehm2593 on some blades it's a different angle on every third tooth.
Excellent demonstration 👍👍
Thanks for the video, and info. Just bought one today.
Hope you enjoy it!
for the chop saw you should mark the low teeth and set the sharpener in reference to those.
thanks
teeth on blades alternate to keep balance and prevents drifting, would enplane your every other gouging.
Yep, I wonder if the instructions covered that.
This honest review earned a new subscriber. I may even buy the blade sharpener.
Nice Job Dave. Keep the videos coming.
i believe you only need to touch each tooth once, probably a little sooner than when it starts throwing smoke though, and notice next time youre aat the store the 100$ blades have alot more carbide on them than the 40$ ones, so you can sharpen them 8-12 times rather than 2-4 times and theyll last alot longer and cut cleaner between sharpenings.. might have a dedicated blade for the concrete uincrusted nail embedded wood though
I think just some blade cleaning in general would help...looks like years of pitch built up on the blade...that also causes friction...just sayin
Great video Dave. Very clear and easy to understand. I may get one of those things myself. Thanks........
Thanks
Good review and demonstration! I’ll pass it on to my hubby ! 😊. Thanks!
Thanks Faith.
I did a review on this tool here years ago. It works pretty good but I only delegate it to older blades. My good ones I send out to be professionally sharpened.
Another note: If you look at the directions I think you left out a very important part. Notice underneath the sharpening wheel there is a place to put an allen wrench in and tilt the whole motor/sharpener unit up or down. One tooth needs to be sharpened at one (+) angle and the other at another (-) angle. This is how a saw blade works. The same reason teeth are offset on a handsaw. Your blades would cut much better if you did that. So you sharpen every other tooth in one angle then change it and do the other teeth the negative angle.
Thanks Daniel....but I don't understand exactly what you mean. Ive been hand sharpening saws for years. I know all about set. These teeth have alternating tips (left /right) when you look at the blade face one.....but the faces of the carbides themselves seem to be totally flat like a rip saw.
Yes, I should have said tooth angle. The term 'set' is only used for handsaws. Most circular saw blade types have alternating angles. If you don't tilt the grinding wheel, each angle will be square. Here is a graphic I found that shows different blades and angles. And, look beneath the grinding wheel. There is a -10 degree and +10 degree adjustment for just this purpose. The directions that came with the device go into length about making this adjustment.
s26462.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/Sawblades_5F00_anatomy1.jpg
Also, a link to the old 2012 video I did on this. It shows me doing it.
czcams.com/video/qBSjO0HKBDM/video.html
On another note: Nice cleanly done video BTW.....
Thanks Daniel. There must be an alternate version of the directions then....my set of directions that came with the machine was void of any good info.
@@CraftsmanontheLake You dont surface the TOPS or the teeth
of
Blade face needs to be polished since friction increases resistance.
YEP- you're correct sir, wood resin/glue is more than half the wear and tear....most people ignore it or dont pay any mind to it.
Soak the blades in a pan with Simple Green for a couple hours to overnight, use old toothbrush for scrubbing. WD40 for rust. Works great and inexpensive.
I use for my 12" so far so good. Takes a lot of finicking with to set up but works ok. Thanks for the review, Dave!
No problem!
Thank you sir for the publicity, I'm looking it up now. I definitely will buy one!!
good luck
I bought one 2 years ago and sharpened all those old blades that I was going to send out. Well worth the money, clean the pitch from blade, soak blade but in a pan of Simple Green for a couple of hours to overnight and use an old toothbrush for scrubbing, after cleaning use WD40 to prevent rust.
Nice review.
Tip: Mark the tooth you start with a felt tip marker.
Tip: When you find a tooth where it barely touches put a dot on that tooth. When one misses, put 2 dots. After you make the first round, move the stop up by a bit (This tool needs a screw adjustment for that.) and regrind all the teeth. Repeat this until it has the same contact on all teeth.
In theory you need to do the top face of the teeth too. This one doesn't seem to be able to do that.
Cleaning your saw blades will go a long way toward improving the cut.
Just sledgehammer the wood or sheet metal instead of using saw
I have one of these sharpening machine for 2 years could never get it set up thank you very much for showing how to set it up
you're welcome
thank you for showing the sharpening machine it will save me a lot of money
With the money you save, you can go out and buy a new hat! lol But good info on that sharpener!
Looks like your purchase of the saw blade sharpener was better than my drill bit sharpener who's tolerances were designed by the hand grenades and horse shoe engineers specifications
Did you ever have any luck with the bit sharpener? Ive never used one. But I do sharpen bits by hand....it works but you have to pay attention.
The drill bit sharpener never did work correctly, the drill bit holder was poorly designed resulting in erugular sharpening angles,,,JUNK,,,
I applaud you for your great video showing precisely the steps and mechanics of this machine. I can see the issues which I know will be problematic on this device due to its design, and the imperfect condition of older blades. The "stop" for the blade tooth is never accurate from tooth to tooth, some will be damaged or more or less worn, and the next tooth will not contact the diamond blade accurately or at all, so care must be taken to adjust the teeth at each step. I would have gone with a two step process for advancing teeth. First advance the machine to a static guard set to the placement of the grinding wheel (part of the grinding wheel guard itself), lock the blade, remove the static guard by pulling the lever and grind the tooth, the second arm is not needed at all.
I like this video !
If nothing else this is a honest review !
What is more is the fact that you really can get a no cutting blade to cut again !
A highbrow cabinet-maker is liable to tell you
This can not be done !
I am not a cabinet-maker !
If it cuts it cuts :)
Best TU U and TNX
Those blades sure could use a cleaning. That’ll make em cut easier, too.
Nice point, pitch(sap) on the sides of blades instantly gets hot and sticky. Pitch remover used on planer. Blades too
Hi I live in the UK - England and l found this intresting to watch as l have many blades that need sharping. Thanks
Thanks for the review! Very clean and precise description and usage. I'm joining your channel now subscribed!!
Thanks for the sub!
new blade for every job, job pays for the blade. my time is worth more than the savings... but thanks for the review, my curiosity is satisfied
Agreed
Can I have your old blades? :-)
I can hear blade ringing sound after each cut you made which is a sign of unbalanced blade .
Who else noticed it ?
I didn't.....I don't know anything about sharpening blades...just a first impression video..
Balance, I don't need no STINKIN BALANCE! You're worried about balance with a junk blade and a $10 saw, cutting scrap wood.
konaok1 yeah man,as long as it cuts good again is all that matters
@@konaok1 true brother