No Start Diagnosis FASTTEC Method Pt1
Vložit
- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- DIY home mechanic showing a systematic method to diagnosis a no-start condition and get a solid direction to focus on where the problem is.
Part 2 is here: • No Start Diagnosis FAS...
Thanks for this series. I’m having a crank no start after doing a head gasket and I’m taking good notes to be able to rule things out fully one by one. I love how you follow through with testing things that are unlikely to be the issue.
Any luck
Have you found your problem
@@TTV_TOXIC_MAD_YT I’m definitely having a fuel pressure drop, honestly it’s been taking months bc I procrastinate and basically let it sit. Parents gave it to me for my bday one year and it was sitting then, I haven’t gotten it registered yet. The other day I was gonna do a final test to see if the pressure drop was the delivery (so something before the fuel rail) but the battery was dead
P
One of my absolute favourite videos of yours Matt. I always find your videos interesting, entertaining and very informative, but for me personally this little series is at the top of the tree.
Thanks bro- I employ this method on EVERY no start or misfire. Logic indicates it ALWAYS will work !
I always loved spaghetti, but why so many car truck problems throughout life? Love the common sense concepts money and time saving ideas. This doesn't make sense that one problem to another keeps happening for me but for a conspiracy. One night squirrel attack took out four by eating wiring. Why not any of my neighbors. Along that line can I train them for revenge? Sorry for the wrong question and attitude. Still could be possibly politically useful.
Wired right 😅😅 pun intended
Damn dude, I need to find a mechanic like you. I do most things DIY, but diagnosis requires a holistic understanding of all systems, and there's an acute lack of actual engineers and scientifically minded people to diagnose my car in my area. I had a mechanic guess that my lack of power / no start was a clogged catalytic converter, but he didn't even test it, didn't even take out o2 sensors or disconnect the cat and try to start it, just "yeah thats probably it. Get that changed and we can go from there."
I see it all the time man. Every weekend in fact. You summed up the mentality perfectly- on both sides in fact!
The best diagnostic strategy I have ever seen for a cranking no start. Science works! Thanks for sharing Matt!
Science totally works!! If it doesn’t, you did it wrong lol.
This series of video's is gold! Understanding the systems involved is vital for correct diagnosis and the method presented is a valuable tool - this information is exactly what I need. Thanks!
+WMDeception Thanks man- you are correct and make a great point about "systems". That is exactly how I look at any diagnostic I do- I see things as Systems, not individual components. I'll have to mention that in a future video in fact- very well said man!!!
You are a true inspiration Matt. There isnt a single technician where i live that can actually properly troubleshoot like you.
I have a Hummer H2 that has intermittent starting issues and can not figure it out.....i have done all kinds of tests and trails on it, but here is wgat i feel sums it up real fast.
1. Jumper cables run from battery down to starter main stud and starter housing, not fixing it.....eliminated the main positive and ground cables to starter....
2. Jumper cables as extra ground from starter housing to block, starter housing to frame, starter housing to negative battery terminal......not working....further eliminates any grounding issue....
3. Jumper cables from our other truck (2007 Yukon) to the Hummers battery.....not making a difference eliminates the Hummers battery. (And it tested good under load test at O'Reilly's).....
4. Using a small 18 gauge jumper wire from the "S Stud" to the "Main hot stud" on the starter not starting it....... eliminates ALL ignition side..... correct? (Eliminates ignition switch, neutral safety switch, AND things like the PCM, body modules, relays, ect correct?)
All this started after having transmission rebuilt......so we tried to eliminate theory that the Bendix might be binding on flywheel and not fully extending.....by adding a "shim".....which didnt fix it either.
Is there anything else i could have possibly missed as a possibility besides the starter itself??? (Skeptical its the starter because put 2 brand new GM starters in within a year and both had this intermittent starting problem)
Please help me, im going crazy!
Sure wish our truck could be one of your case studies. :)
Thanks for the compliments. On an intermittent like that I would probably change the strategy up. It seems you are trying to create conditions to always get it to start but because it’s intermittent this isn’t the best approach. What you want to do is try to create conditions that catch it when it fails.
I would begin by first trying to determine if this is a load side or control side issue. Measuring the voltage drop on the control side would show when the issue happens if it’s being caused on control side or load side and then you can narrow in accordingly. If, say, you determine it’s on load side, set up a voltage drop measurement to the starter solenoid and get issue to occur again. When it occurs again you will know if it’s a voltage drop issue or a component issue.
You need to catch the issue happening and have monitors to make determinations of what failed, as opposed to trying to make it never happen because even if you never make it happen, you won’t know the specific location of the issue.
@@SchrodingersBox catching it happening isn't a problem now, as it's now so bad it almost never starts. (It went from starting 19 out of 20 times a year ago, to starting 1 out of 20 times currently) over the life of 2 brand new GM starters. (If the new starter is bad, there has to be something prematurely shortening their lifespan)
I wish I was much smarter on this than I am, but I started with measuring volts on everything possible including trying voltage drop tests from your videos.
When I would measure for voltage drop at the starter (main always hot stud and the starter housing) it would only drop around .6 volts (less than 1 volt) BUT....that is when it didn't start. Never got a reading of how much it dropped when it started though. (Is Measuring the voltage drop when it doesn't start......what we need, or do we need the voltage drop when it does start?). At first I thought we need the drop when it doesn't start but then others acted like it's such a small drop, that's not the actual draw of the starter and I need the drop when it does start. (Since then I haven't been able to get it to start to see the drop when it does start)
I did all kinds of tests trying to narrow it down like that.....but then with help on a Hummer forum, they had me try the jumper cables tests. I hate to even ask this....but are you sure you read the jumper cables tests above correctly? Because I wasn't trying to get it to not start ....but trying to get it to start.....with those jumper cables tests. And none of them helped it start properly.
As far as I understand, the one test eliminates the battery for sure, one eliminates the cables going to starter for sure, another eliminates bad grounds, and the other eliminates ALL things on ignition side.
Feel very stupid for asking this question but is the "load side" the main hot wire going to starter from battery? Is the "control side" what I call the "ignition side"? (Relay, ignition switch, neutral safety switch, PCM, ect?)
Dang Swami.... Excellent instruction..
"I'm not Worthy".
Next, I hope you have a video on: no control to the injectors, because thanks to you, I found out that's my issue! Plenty of fuel and pressure, no electricity to the injectors....
You da Man!!
Thanks Matt, your videos are awsome, I fix cars because of you, I don't live near Colorado, Fast tec, this method works so good on no start, my Ecm was the problem, no crank therefore no start, tested pins 6 and 14 at the obd reader connection under the dash, 123 ohms should be 60 ohms to be no computers blown, eventually after disconnecting the Bcm, Pcm, and Igm, no change in ohms, found the Ecm disconnected was the problem, ohms reading on the digital volt meter went to zero, thanks Matt.
Had three cars in the late 90s with a 3800 good engine had 250 to 300 thousand miles on each coil packs spark plug wires modulator under the coil pack looking forward to your next video see what's wrong with the old girl brings back a lot of memories thanks for the videos
Dude, you are awesome! Reasons are:
1. "Settle down Honda boys" i drive a honda, i love it, but i hate ricers.
2. You used serendipitous PROPERLY
3. You are ENCOURAGING do it yourself on cars... thank you.
Faith in humanity: RESTORED
hahaha great comment- made my week!!
Why have I not heard about this guy before? I've seen a few of his videos recently - he's really good! I've already learnt a great deal. Subscribed.
Thanks for the video. Diagnosed a bad battery (with a no crank situation) after watching this series.
This is a great basic troubleshooting approach generalized for any car. He also makes a good case for knowing the minutia behind troubleshooting, like knowing how DVMs measure average voltage. I will add that on fairly modern cars (e.g. a 2008 Nissan Versa) a lot of these steps are pretty time consuming because basic things that were once readily available are now obscured and difficult to access (like spark plugs, fuel connections, etc.).
Matt I really like your way of doing your Diagnostic tests with simple tools that the DiY guy will likely to have
Oh for the days when it was coil and distributor and no computers.
Wonderful concept of delivering VALUE to viewers and Subscribers... Deliver basic and foundational information that people can TRULY use...!
Do you have your website membership site available or is it still down...?
Hi Matt,I would like to add one simple issue to "crank no start "list ,I have accidently damaged an old brittle plastic top of my coolant temp.sensor , so my 2001 toyota camry 2.2l wont start.it will cause same result if a wiring to that sensor is damaged .I have found that is a kind of protection to the engine . I do believe that modern cars have a few more protection sensors in the system.so please consider to check the wiring connection to them other way ...crank no start ...will continue .
I'm very grateful to you for sharing your knowledge with other needy people .the way you presented the issue is very encouraging to me so I'm going to learn more about that from you ,thank you very much !
Krzysztof
Dude, your commentary is pure gold. I'm buying a t-shirt and making a donation to you. So much appreciate what you are doing!
Love the comment about stupid performance upgrades like removing the MAF screen. I think that guy removed his EGR circuit as well.
Much appreciated!
Excellent work, this helped me quickly and accurately troubleshoot my no start condition. Your videos are helpful and just what advanced diy need. Thanks!!
I am a subscriber since a few days ago and I am CONFIDENT you are a true TECHNICiAN. I am so enthused to be learning from a pro such as yourself. I will be purchasing your paid subscription service as I believe it is worth every penny. (money is tight and can't justify it with the girlfriend after purchasing so much the last three weeks in tools alone.) I just want to say thanks for helping me out so much. looking forward to watching all your videos Matt.
Thanks man. Look forward to seeing you on both channels!
Great video, Matt. I wish more of the docs I work with shared your algorithmic sensibility. Would save loads in unwarranted and costly tests in the hospital. You'd make a killer physician with the way you chip away at a diagnosis.
Matt, thanks for including the test in which you left the fuel rail pressurized and manually fired the injector. The test clearly excluded another possibility -- that an injector with fuel pressure and pulse from the ECU is not delivering fuel because it is clogged.
I have only ever tested individual fuel injectors when their removal was a step in a broader maintenance task. I never performed the test you did, because I doubted that a suitably brief pulse of an injector would generate a conclusive change in fuel pressure. Your test clearly shows that the test is informative and has a benefit that can be weighed against the risk of shorting out the ECU during testing.
As a bit of an aside, I was surprised when you got your hand greasy that you didn't wipe it off on a Haynes manual. It just goes to show that you should always wear Mechanix brand gloves when working on a car...
Lol thanks, I actually prefer to use the pages of the Haynes manual to wipe other parts of my body lol
I can't believe it's been 8yrs.... thanks again
29:33 when you tossed the marker after that fuel and fire bit, that was the equivalent of a mic drop XD XD
hello Matt watched all three fasttec videos and feel they should be called fantastic. you do a great job explaining things so us do it yourselfers can understand.. your the best . I enjoyed the videos even though I ended up not needing them since I added a bottle of HEET to my gas tank while watching them . went out next morning and the old ford ranger started right up. Beautiful Wisconsin whether don't you know. Thanks anyway for the great info . Jimmer Crouch.
Thanks. curious- what was the diagnostic you performed to gather data thaty indicated HEET was necessary to remedy the issue? Most people just randomly guess like idiots when they use that product.
correct it was a guess .but since we had a very warm week prior to this problem condensation in fuel line seemed like a good guess . a common problem up here in the north woods.
oh' and I might add I was in the heating business for years and spent many hours thawing out fuel oil lines.
Hey again, Matt! This series, so far, is awesome! Looks like there are two more videos to watch tonight, too! :-D
I wanted to be a nitpicky little jerk again... You'd mentioned in this video that voltmeters measure average voltage, and that you could expect to see 6VDC appear on the meter. I believe that in most cases, this is incorrect. DVOMs actually take samples at a predetermined interval, much like a Graphing Multimeter or an Oscilloscope. However, those samples are at a much, much slower rate than the latter two mentioned tools. Some DVOMs have an Average feature, which will typically be a separate setting, but I've only seen this on higher-end devices (Fluke 88 and the like). Every meter I've seen to have this setting, however, also has a setting to measure duty cycle and/or pulse width; a much more useful feature for poking at fuel injectors. :-)
Yes you are correct- One of my DVOM's does indeed show 6V on an injector while the one I used in the video normally would jump all over the place but it happened to fix at 10.5V in the video.
Anyway the whole point is to alert people unfamiliar with using a DVOM on a "cycled" voltage that they may not see 12V and thus not to falsely suspect a failure when there isn't one.
Could you have tested the fuel injectors by priming the fuel pump with the gauge attached, then disconnecting the fuel pump relay and cranking the engine once, while watching the needle?
Never thought of that! Good idea indeed! That would definitely indicate fuel injector activity!
Paul MvN I would like to see an example of that method if possible . Thanks for everything
Hello so do u no if the Honda 1990 Accord. Has a safety feature that. When.say llke temp sensor. Goes. Bad. It shuts down the. Fuel for a no start
Returning to this after watching a year ago it's all adding up finally how solid this method is 😎
Yes is often helps to revisited videos again after you have more experience, for sure!!
U don't like getting dirty because u are a princess..lol I love your videos..u r teaching me alot I been working on my truck LS1 5.3 with crank an no start.an again u are helping me..thank you
Luv It " No ty , there's plenty of tools around this vechicle" LOL
Matt, have you ever considered getting an oscilloscope? A great test for injectors is back probe the control side of the injector, and you would be able to see the current ramp, along with the "pintle hump", so you can actually verify the injector is mechanically opening based on that small change in voltage.
Yes James, I would love to get a scope- I would totally dig experimenting with one but the problem is I just don't see investing the money in one since I really don't work on a large enough volume of cars to justify the expense.
Schrodingers Box I an in the same boat as you. You can actually get into a one channel hobby scope for under a hundred bucks. I have one, and one you install the updated firmware, it is actually not to bad. Not a pro scope, but can capture waveforms.
Well hell- I didn't know I can get one for $100! I just spent $50 on a bore gauge that I'll never use just for my engine rebuild video lol!! What brand is this that you are referring to?
The DSO Nano v3 is what I have. Its a bit more difficult, but you will also want to upgrade it to the benf firmware. If you Google around, you can find a version that should work on V3. Or you can always get v2. They are bassicaly identical. You can find them on eBay/Amazon. They are no where near accurate enough to use in lab work, but are good enough to play around with in automotive. You can also plug in any probe made for any scope once you get some adapters. So you can look at secondary ignition, or get some back probing probes. You can see eBay for all the adapters. Pretty neat tool though for the money.
I can. He's correct. He's attempting to instruct non-pros to diagnose these issues.
I think you just told me what the problem is with my Chevy van. Amazing!
Techanically, yes I did. I mentioned what the problem is for EVERY car that has a no start
I think your theory on fuel pressure and a restriction somewhere between the pump and injectors is a little off (please correct me if I'm wrong). If there was a restriction in the line somewhere I believe you would still be able to build full pressure with the ignition in the on position and perhaps even at idle however when under load you could then experience a pressure drop due to the inability to supply enough fuel through the restriction. 50 psi is still 50 psi whether it's going through a 1mm tube or 5mm tube as long as there is no demand for fuel. If that makes sense, anyway i love all your videos extremely educational and keep up the good work.
Tim Vine I see what you're saying and it makes sense
It will also make your fuel pressure regulator add insult to injury, as it will operate in an undetermined pressure.
I've learned a lot from your videos, thanks. I had one problem with my car that your FASTTEC method didn't quite exactly solve. The problem was that I had 'A' spark, but it was insufficient for the car to start or run. I think there needs to be a test to not only determine if a spark is present, but if it is enough to make your car run. Since I'm not a professional, I don't know if this is a common problem or not. I spent a fair bit of time trying to find the problem, and eventually found that my ignition coil was bad. I think it was partially shorting out the side of the coil (as there was visible discoloration to the plastic enclosure). I was just using a steel rod in the spark plug wire to test for a spark to ground, and it did spark. Fortunately, I didn't swap out a ton of parts, I continued to test until I was fairly sure I'd found the problem.
If you have insufficient spark then FASTTEC would cover that since spark is the first thing. Checking spark doesn’t mean checking presence of spark. It means checking spark as a reason for failed combustion. Remember FASTTEC is checking reasons for lack of combustion caused by each variable.
I can. He's correct. He's attempting to instruct non-pros to diagnose these issues. Watch and learn.
Matt thanks for your videos as you definitely speak my language: articulate, rational and efficient. I’m currently having issues with a Ford Focus 2004. The garage has replaced the fuel pump but the engine cut out and crank no start got me again. I’ll go through the basic diag checks, ignition then fuel Being that the fuel pump was replaced I’m thinking I have a relay or timing sensor issue and doubtful the inertia switch is giving me probs by I’ll check that first. Thanks and God bless you Sir you are a gift to us ✌🏼
Good luck with it. just think FASTTEC and you will find it. Man I can even count how many times I received a car with a new fuel pump that didn’t need it. usually it was a voltage drop or wiring problem, not the fuel pump. This of course assumes it’s a fuel problem to begin with.
@@SchrodingersBox Fasttec? I heard you mention that on the video.
As I was watching this it occurred to me how much easier it is to diagnose a "crank no start" on an old car. Yet, the same principles apply.
you are correct. the principles are 100% the same indeed. in fact they are the same for a lawn mower that won’t start!!
the components and technologies and wiring may be different but the principles are 100% identical.
I stumbled on your channel trying to troubleshoot my 88 F2 50 with a 5.0 L. Absolutely love your teaching techniques and the fact that you go into the understanding of why you're doing what you're doing. One thing I didn't see you touch on with fuel is having pressure at the rail during KOEO prime or cranking but losing pressure after the key is turned off. I have pressure at the Schrader valve during prime but when I turn the key off I lose pressure. I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator but the same problem persists. Dual tanks and it does it with both tanks so I am assuming the check valves are good
See my video on fuel pressure diagnostics.
Thank you very much sir and once again love your videos. Keep up the awesome work
Schrodingers Box I
Checking fuel systems problems always have a fire extinguisher within reach ! An inexpensive but reliable tester is a Magnetic Field Detector . This will pick up ignition coil and electronic fuel pulses . 6/10/23
A Lisle 20700 is also an excellent tool for checking spark coil strength .
Idle air control valve or IAC. When you blocked off the air did you block off the small hole that should allow air in with the throttle plate closed?
If I follow correctly you had WOT or wide open throttle when you got 120psi . . . did you WOT as well when it was blocked?
I'm trying to be less wordy about what I'm asking, but it seems like the variables on this test are WOT or throttle plate closed, blocked and unblocked, and if blocked and unlocked had any affect on the small hole meant to allow air for idling.
To be even simpler, what drove all these questions if through an of this an IAC problem could be discovered. (and if you were on an OBD II car would the computer help point that out if it was bad enough?)
LOL, I shouldn't have bothered in not being wordy. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for showing me the video , I now know it was my fuel pump on my 2003 Focus , !!
"There's plenty of tools around this car..."
With that you got from me a legitimate LOL.
Great video Matt !
Great video thanks I learn something new every day
the noid light also tells you that your crank sensor is operating. if you have no injector pulse then it's possible that your crank sensor is also bad
andrew donohue if the crank sensor is bad you will loose both injector pulse AND spark
Hi greetings from Britain,great videos,just a thought,another safer way of checking injectors using a multimeter would be on the hertz scale,on crank.
dodayli Indeed that would work!
I went to a local school and talked to the it guy and said I wanted to fix computers but I wanted to find the exact diode i.c. cap transistors.. he said I was a technical dinasaur. well anyways .. I would think that wires would cause a rough idle. KISS..that's my philosophy.. and that's not a romantic word.. keep it simple stupid.. it's a little harsh..I don't like to replace more than I have too. great video.
i don't have the money for a $3,000 scan tool so the more videos that will teach me how to do such as a "good spark-good fuel no start"video using nothing but hand tools would be awesome . yes I am a smuk or otherwise known as a shade tree mechanic but I am pretty good with a carburetor but a throttle body is something I am just learning . I would love your assistance . you are not the only one I watch but I am one that watch's beginning to end , learns and I do not bitch
Who has a $3000 scan tool??? Mine is $300
Fuel and fire, is that which I desire. (Seinfeld: "That's gold, Jerry, gold!")
Parts Changer: It needed the part anyway!
Matt: I was curious anyway!
Thank you for your time and your help kind sir. God bless.
A cheap and easy way to simultaneously check all fuel injectors for pulse is to take a Light Emitting Diode "LED" (one for each injector) and solder a 680 ohm resistor to one leg of the LED so that the resistor is even in length with the other leg of the LED, then shove a LED into each (disconnected) fuel injector plug. Observe the polarity of the LED, +12V side of injector goes to plus (anode) side of LED. Then crank away. The LEDs will flash with each pulse.
You got me addicted. Do you have any book's or video's I can purchase? Took me a long time on the web to find someone that really knows his stuff. ( Your the best ) I've found.
Your best bet would be my paid website which has even better videos and very basic explanations of electrical and computer controlled diagnostics. It is launching in a couple weeks. Subscribe to this channel and you'll be informed when it launches.
my car starts good with cooler engine. but only after I turn switch off it is very hard to restart. pontiac grand prix 2002. 3.1. anything about a no start hot engine. Hayes manual only says 3 causes.1 corroded battery terminals especcially ground.#2 dirty or blocked air filter#3 fuel not reaching injection system. any suggestions please Hayes repair manual is not so helpful. imo.
Matt, yur a genius at mechanics!
Thanks so much matt
You have a very lovely F-body screen saver. I had an 84 :)
Just re-watching some of these, and one thing I don't think you mentioned in the air section is exhaust. If you have a near completely restricted exhaust, it can cause a no-start issue. I belive Paul Danner has a case study on this from a faulty exhaust manifold that was almost completely blocked.
I do believe I mentioned that a sign of exhaust restriction is the car starts but then stumbles and dies after a few seconds when the backpressure builds. If I failed to mention that, you are correct it is a consideration. I believe I mention it in the second video on this series.
Ahh, very good then.
Matt, I also use
FACTS FACT
FuelAirCompressionTimingSpark F.A.C.T.S.
F.A.C.T. for diesels
JPPortug
I've made a point of learning this method for no-starts. Like the guy says - if you don't find the cause after working through these steps, you either did it wrong... or you're just not wired right. lol
New Metallica isn't as good as the older stuff, but I caught the reference to the song from Reload. Fight Fire With Fire is more my thing. FASTTEC does sound very wise, Air is seldom the issue, agreed.
great video matt like your attention to detail
Cool video
Bravo! Absolutely amazing
I have shared this with many. .
Very cool video...
Great learning info...
Awesome, thank you!
my Pontiac Grand Prix is recently hard to start when engine is warm+ hot+ driven for awhile. runs great and starts good in morning or when car is cooler. but I get zero codes.3.1 century engine.
2001 toyota camry I drive it all day with out the AC running !!!!! Then when I use the AC it will not turn over or it will turn over but will not start . But if I wait for about 30 too 45 minutes it starts. (1) What does the AC have to do with motor maybe over heating ? (2) the temp gage on the dash shows it is not hot, over heated.
Help please usefull comments
Matt, amazing lectures, I was looking exactly for this theoretical knowledge. Thank you very much.
Please answer if you can, which inexpensive scan tool I should get, ebay is full of all kind handheld devices, but I don't know if they will scan for fuel trim and other things.
And please if you can guide me in the right direction, my accord 08 4cylinder starts with high ideal RPM (2000) and keeps it for long time. Only after few min driving it drops. Plus some kind of slight whistle sound when I press gas pedal. Dealer didn't find anything wrong. Now I'm learning myself from your videos to resolve this issue. Thank you again.
Oleg
Good video with lots of excellent details. Have you ever ran into a triton V10 that idles smooth but no power under load due to one entire bank not firing? Unable to identify problem so far.
See it a lot. What data do you have? What is the LTFT and STFT curve vs load? What is the MAF frequency static vs load? What is the MAP voltage in relation to calculated load?
Need something to go on.
Verified fuel with pressure, noid lights, and smell of unburned fuel. Idles very smooth. Changed out COP's since a few were bad. Using GTC505 engine Analyzer it shows nothing on passenger bank all cylinders but I can see that the screen is moving very fast on that #1 only, normal curve on all drivers side bank. Checked continuity from each wire to COP good. Checked trigger signal wire and found no grounds. Verified cam sensor signal ok. unplugged and it would not start indicating it;s not the problem. Swapped radio noise capacitors right and left with no change. Checked for Key on voltage at COPs. Plan next to check COP voltage using a spark tester and back probe under load. Finally, will run jumper from PCM to COP. Want to make sure I have checked everything before replacing PCM since the engine does start and idle smooth and have no other malfunctions. Do have error codes for cylinders 2-5 Pri/Sec Winding. #1 does not show the code. I appreciate any new ideas.
Not sure what LTFT and STFT curve vs load is.
Dave Mitchell Well what data do you have at all? What ignition voltage tests have you done, what cylinder compression tests, fuel stoichiometry, anything?
I have nothing to go on here.
my friend i have a fule presser gauge which self made by me, when i found low fule presser problem directly put gauge on output of fule pump, in indian cars there is no strater valve in fuel line.
Yes we do it yourselfers must be creative!!
You are a M.D in car repair! I have a 2004 jeep charakee with a 4.0 straight 6. It starts when its cold and stays running just fine but when I turn it off it won't start until it cools down. Could you tell me the diagnosis Dr.Schroeder? Please
In my case the truck was hesitating on acceleration. Then after only 5 miles with this hesitation, it failed to start. No noise coming from the pump. Disconnected the fuel line under the truck. No fuel flow. Reconnected. Went through the bed to get at the pump. Way too much rust. Replaced pump. Tried to start it. Still no start. Went forward to replace the fuel filter. Completely clogged. Found out what caused the pump to fail.
How did you determine fuel filter was completely clogged? That is extremely unusual.
Can't handle a little grease?
Funny thing about "just buying plugs and wires". Working on a newer 3800,crank,but no start. I pull a plug wire to check for spark,and the boot falls apart in my hand. Well,it obviously needs new wires,might as well do plugs while I'm at it,since it probably needs those too. Everything else checked out.
Yep,that fixed it. Dunno how or why. The odd part is,you'd think it would at least start,and sputter on 4-5 cylinders,but it wouldn't even do that. The old plugs/wires didn't even look that bad (aside from the one with the boot pulled off.).
Lucky day,I guess.
Yeah thats weird, I would have easily expected it to still at least start but run like crap. I wonder if, due to the waste spark design- it was actually just firing on 4 cylinders because all the spark from the coil was grounding out through the bad wire. Even then I would expect it to at least sputter.
You never know what's going to happen I guess!
Maybe this is a dumb questions, but couldn't you rule out fuel as a problem by trying to start the engine with starter fluid?
Yes of course. If it starts when adding fuel, fuel is the only issue. In this event there was both no fuel and no spark however.
Highly unlikely it's the ECU, or compression, or timing. Those are rare. It's likely, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or hall effect sensors, maybe wiring.
Another way to check for fuel pressure drop test would be to pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the motor over and watch for pressure drop.
Hi Matt, I have a 2017 Camry 2.5 le. This is the second time it happened. Cranks hard but no start. Replaced battery first time (was old anyway). Happened again, left key in on position for a min then turned off and on and started. Tried few times later and works. I used a duplicate key till now, can the key be an issue, has delayed responses. No start happened only twice in past month. Appreciate the details shared.
The first thing I would do is see if you have fuel and spark when it cranks and doesn't start and go from there. It cannot be a battery problem if it cranks.
I have situation like in Your movie. My car does not start. It cranks. I checked fuel, injector is spraying fuel. It is single injection engine. I can see the fuel laying in the intake manifold. I checked the spark and they are sparking. I can't hear any sounds that would be a sign of a vacuum leak. I will try check for leak with smoke. What can you suggest more? I don't have copmression tester.
Jacek U How about timing?
I have to warn strongly against manually firing a fuel injector into a cylinder. Since the engine is not actually running, the fuel isn't being burned. Even if the fuel sits in the cylinder for a short amount of time, most if not all will quickly drain past the piston rings ( regardless of how new the engine maybe or how tight tolerances are ). The raw fuel will quickly collect into the crankcase with engine oil and can easily destroy the engine!!! This is a friendly warning ☺
But as Matt says... ALWAYS DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM!!! DON'T JUST RUN OUT AND START REPLACING PARTS!!! In my 15+ years as a master automotive technician, I've literally witnessed people squandering hundreds of thousands of dollars in parts just because Jim-Bob's brother had the same problem with an EGR valve!!! And the kids that work at AutoZone work in field of retail! Not automotive!!!
Correction on your first statement- The first part is not a concern because such a small amount is being injected when done for diagnostics., It is indeed a valid test.
The concern is not that the fuel will contaminate the oil and destroy the engine- that is not going to happen. The concern is if you somehow did run the injector long enough to cause any such volume your concern is HYDROLOCKING the engine because the fuel in the cylinder can't be compressed and that could very well damage the engine.
But again with less that a couple milliliters of fuel being used in this application there is no concern for either- but especially 2ml of fuel contaminating 5L of oil and destroying an engine. Not possible.
Any chance you can share thr tools /equipment used/needed to diagnose?
Air test... Monitor map sensor, koec, then open full throttle (while still cranking) & watch for map sensor data change? (From closed to full throttle)
You would look for a change from idle vacuum to atmospheric pressure to full vacuum and back to idle vacuum if you did that test
Very educational video. I have a 2003 VW TDI crank no start obviously steps are the same ? I'm getting fuel to my injectors but I don't know if its enough to start because I have a engine code P0225 indicating quanity adjust to injection pump. It prolly basic science but any ideas I'd appreciate it ?
Fair call, but if your going to fasttec things why go through all the testing of the relay?
A quick check of power and ground at the tank would have confirmed circuit integrity instantly and an amp probe on either power or ground would have confirmed the pump.. What you showed your audience was the steps to validate circuit integrity when the circuit was never in question. These only needed to be tested if there was no power present at the tank which would have been your second check after confirming ignition was not a fault.
Good video though on how to eliminate loss of power issues that is relative to any circuit.
james ross On many models there is no "quick check for power and ground at the tank" without lowering the tank, and not everyone has am amp probe.
By comfortably working on top of the car you can confirm if it is necessary to lift the car, lower the tank, check powers and grounds (or just put 12V right to the pump at the tank) in the first place. Anytime I can make things easier that's my preference!
I have a 2012 caddie Srx that will not start just one click need your help I did change the starter it was bad
What is the voltage drop on the starter?
What is the brand of the diagnostic tool that has the screen to look at voltage on the right of the screen?
Another Great video👍👍
Wow really good stuff.
I have a 1997 Chevy tahao took fuel tank for rusted pressure lines also while it was out replaced fuel pump
Put it back together started and ran for about a minute and cut off and I have no spark
Not sure about spider injectors if they could be vapor locked
Any ideas would be great
no spark has nothing to do with the fuel pump at all. issue is unrelated if you lost spark. try a crank sensor bypass.
GOLD!
Hey I have a 92 geo metro hatch back 5 speed it cranks and won’t start but it’s getting spark and fuel and all the relays are good
Try a crank sensor bypass and see if you get spark if not you know where to look.
Hello my fuel pump primes but shuts off electronically when the engine is supposed to start can you help me 2004 Expedition
I would start by checking crankshaft position sensor signal.
hello, you were very detailed showing how to test the injectors but didn't mention what to do if it is the injectors. i have a 2008 crown vic. pump is good and filter is new and I'm getting spark but it doesn't seem that my injectors are firing. all the fuses and all relays tested good, i've checked them 4 times threw out the last couple days . i have a new fuel pump. injectors don't seem to be firing with a noid light. what sensors would cause injectors not to fire'? also the car did start when i shot some starter fluid in the throttle. car was running good and killed in the rain immediately after i hit a descent pothole. i did not bottom out. also the day before i was checking the battery and put a load test on it with the car running on accident. i don't know if that affected anything. it was just a spit second not the whole 10 seconds
also i don't have a schrader valve to do a fuel test to check the fuel pressure but it seems as if the pressure is strong not fully positive but i did the open fuel line with the key on test and it spit out about a cup of gas in 1 second. again i think it is something telling the injectors not to fire but i don't know what to change out
You have an injector control circuit issue.
Settle down Honda boys, its not a new ricer mod..LMAO😂
Hahahah. gotta love them ricers!!!!
I drive a Honda and hate ricers!
The way I test injector harness with a meter is I front probe one and back probe the other it's just a safer way
Yep I do that too. Best not to take chances.
I've run into craziest situations yet on Nissan Sentra 2002 Gxe. No crank. No run. Died while driving. Hooked to Autel ran codes etc etc starts and runs with OBDII plugged in. Will not turn over with OBDII removed. All fuseses are good. Help help help.
never heard of that in my life. 2 things come to mind. First is possible short in the ALDL - I’d especially check if there is power- all of them should have power at pin 16.
Second possibility is CAN network issue that somehow the scantool is creating an interface maybe? I only know how to check it with a scope but I would check network signal with and without the Autel plugged in.
Really odd.
Great video as always! Also, please do a video on stupid "performance" mods. The comments ricers leave would be funny as hell!
Oh yeah, I've been meaning to do that for years!!! Hopefully this summer when racing season starts I'll be able to finally do it!!
Cool! I can't wait!
What would you say if my fuel pressure goes up to 60psi with KOEO but then starts to drop slowly? (3 psi/min or so). Would this cause a no start? My ranger died while driving and now won’t start.
Won’t cause a no start. Likely a bad check valve but has nothing to do with a no start. Would cause a long crank time. Check spark first.
Thank you .......Teacher !
Buick fireball?
Great comprehensive video--Is it not the case sometimes or even tempting that one has to swop out some parts to test all these conditions?
Only if the person is incompetent. A skilled diagnostician can test instead of guess.
@@SchrodingersBox Ha Ha, many thanks for your reply----Pity I didn't see your videos earlier but anyway enough spare parts here initially diagnosed as faulty to keep my BMW e30 going for another 20 years.
nice firebird screensaver
Hey Matt, I'm a fan and student of yours, and a member of qm, firstly thank you, you've taught me so much, but I was wondering if you might be willing to help me, I'm finding myself unable to diagnose a no start condition on my fuel injected motorcycle
I'm here in Denver and have a lot of belief in your way of doing things, but unfortunately I keep getting results from tests that do not seem to make such a definitive pass or fail like they seem to under your more experienced and knowledgeable supervision.
Thanks for your support. Can you give me a summary of what data you collected, particularly I am sure you have done my FASTTEC analysis, correct?
Yw, it has been a great value to me, easily worth 10x what I've paid. Well, I didn't get too far into fasttec because the engine is barely turning over, it acts as though the battery is very weak even when it's a brand new battery fully charged, the engine turns over very slowly about 3 times before it stops on a new and fully charged battery. It's also a new starter, starter solenoid, and new battery/ starter wires. (I'm really trying to be a 2%er but I'm pretty inexperienced and i thought I had determined the problem with each component I replaced). The battery really was bad and the wires were actually melted to pieces when I bought the bike. The starter turned out to be a misdiagnosis. I am now beginning to believe that it's the compression of the engine preventing it from turning over, especially because it turned over more easily when I removed the spark plugs. Compression test revealed 90psi on the front cylinder and 85 on the rear. The service manual says 50-85 psi is the usable range (this engine is equipped with a compression release valve that is supposed to make it easier on the starter and disengages automatically at higher rpm that might be the problem? ). I've attempted voltage drop testing on the starter circuit but have found them essentially inconclusive, the voltmeter is jumping allover the place (this is my first time doing the voltage drop test) . It's a 2002 kawasaki vulcan mean streak with a 1500cc engine, the service manual is available in pdf format at www.kawasaki-customs.com/modeles-kawasaki/1500meanstreak-kawasaki-customs/VN1500.pdf
@@matthewthehuman1744 When you have it appear to be very weak when starting yet the battery is good you have the following variables.
1. Lack of amperage to the starter- test using voltage drop method
2. Steric hindrance from an accessory (frozen alternator, etc). Test by removing any drive belts and if it starts easier identify the frozen pulley or component.
3. Steric hindrance from the engine itself. Test by turning the engine over by hand and seeing if the engine has high friction.
Ok, I will do these tests. It is outside (in this beautiful but freezing weather) and the engine has outer covers that won't allow 2/3 of the tests to be done very easily, so it will probably be a while before I am able to complete these tests, but I really appreciate your assistance.
@@SchrodingersBox you have such a clear way of thinking, it's pretty cool.