V-Twin Briggs Won't Shut Off - Kill wire diode replacement.
Vložit
- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- This Briggs and Stratton V twin doesn't die when you turn the key off. It sputters for a moment before the engine quits. This is caused by only one coil being grounded by the ignition. Both diodes had failed on this engine. There are 2 fixes for this problem; replacing the entire engine wiring harness, or replacing the 2 diodes. I chose the latter.
- Jak na to + styl
This was helpful. Thanks. Have a Scag 26hp doing the same thing. Someone disconnected the kill wires after they hacked up the harness. I was unaware they had a diode in the kill wires.
Worked like a charm! Thank you kindly for the video good sir.
Just discovered my twin won't shut off, this was helpful especially the ground test. Nice video thx
I'm having this issue right now with a white MTD tractor going to order some diodes to get it fixed thank you great video
Where did you find the dio at ??? Any numbers or size ???
@@philliphall5198he suggested a 1n4007 Diode but he used a beefier 1n5408 diode but the 1n4007 will do just fine
Looks like a job well done
I have a similar B&S engine 35000 v twin: My coil ground wire was shorted to 12volts at the ignition swt which blew the main fuse, after replacing the fuse the engine started but was harder to start at first then it refused to start at all only cranks as along as the battery lasts. My question is does this short ckt damage the coils or just the diodes and harness wire? Or does it damage both the diodes/harness and coils? Great video, Thanks
It seems at least in another video this can cause the tractor to be running on only one cylinder. And I think this may be my problem as I have a big loss of power.....
yes, Killing one cylinder will result in less power. The quickest way to spot that is pull one plug wire. Engine speed should decrease but continue running. If it dies or doesn't change one cylinder isn't firing.
Thanks, was exactly my problem! 50 cents later.
GOOD VIDEO !!
We need radio shack back to get parts and diodes
Getting the right ones is hard for me and where to buy them from ???
Any suggestions
I have always had good service from Mouser electronics. But dont be surprised when you see the shipping costs will be considerably more than the diodes, which costs about 50 cents each. I try to have a list of things like solder, solder remover, soldering tips, heat shrink, etc. to help offset the cost of shipping. Cheers
Diode 1n4007 general purpose Silicon Rectifier,1A, 1,1000v pack of 10, $5.64 Amazon
Dio part numbers or size to order would have been very nice to have from you
Get video. However, I find that my mower will start faster with a separate switch for the kill wire circuit rather than wired (properly) through the ignition switch. Any idea why. I rather shut it down with one switch, but it sure starts faster when the kill is switched and wired separately. There's no extraneous grounding anywhere.
Grounding the coils tends to be an all or nothing thing. Not sure what's going on there.
what is the part # for the harness
I have the beast riding lawnmower before cut engine off now it does not could it be bad diodes?
yes
Hi, good video, it helps a lot, I want to ask you something: I have Husqvarna Ride on lawn mower Kohler courage V-twin DSAI ignition engine, it turns on and I turn it off easily there is no problem, but when the engine is on for about half an hour the engine does not want to turn off, do you have any ideas? what could it be? any help I would appreciate it
Is that the one with the weird coil setup ? I know nothing about those other than that they are problematic and often replaced with standard coils.
Your ground wire on the coil is broken some place or from the ignition key switch
How you test them without the tester 2 of mine been running that way a long time
You really can't.
@@pfun41 on one engine i seen someone had 2 diodes on the coils ground wire plus size going up to the coil and minus going to the key switch so i cut those off it and spliced the wire back without the diodes on and now it shuts off how its supposed to
HELP PLEASE
I notice that the diode markings band is towards the coils and away from the kill switch. That is the opposite to what I expected. I wonder if the kill switch, although it is at ground voltage (negative), is at a higher voltage than the coil coz the coil is a/c and will be negative to the kill switch for half the cycle, so that the current flow is FROM the kill switch (at zero volts) and TO the coil primary while it is at negative voltage to the kill switch.... ? Somebody tell me if am right coz it is popping my skull !
Just put the new ones on how you take off the old ones put the new ones on the same direction as the old ones were
The ground runs to the coil
I use the black heat resistant and oil and gas resistant rtv and would around those on mine cause its what i have