Briggs and Stratton Engine Surging, Stalling & Backfiring fix (parts used below)
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2016
- FIX idle/running problems with Briggs & Stratton most years, Here's Exact ORing KIT Briggs Carb repair, Simple Dual fix: Exact ORings amzn.to/3yMb9yC + a NEW Fuel Pump too amzn.to/3KrRoib OEM Parts + B&S Twin Service Manual amzn.to/2rdRWAR for all answers and facts. new Nikki COMPLETE 2bbl CARB AND INSTALL KIT amzn.to/3RetlXX
Covers - [Briggs & Stratton Nikki V Twin Jet & Transfer Tube O-Ring Service Kit] YOU TOO can Help us raising funds for new materials, interactive help & higher quality videos www.buymeacoffee.com/JOHNDANIEL
NOTES -
[ FUEL PUMP REPLACES BRIGGS AND STRATTON 808656 INCLUDES FUEL FILTER 695666] pump for BRIGGS & STRATTON / KOHLER POWERED CRAFTSMAN RIDING LAWN MOWER / GARDEN TRACTOR / LAWN TRACTOR
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Replacement pump is for these and more:
KOHLER 24 393 04-S
KOHLER/24 393 16-S
KOHLER 24 393 16-S
BRIGGS & STRATTON 491922
BRIGGS & STRATTON 808656
JOHN DEERE LG808656
JOHN DEERE M138498
JOHN DEERE M145667
KAWASAKI 49040-7001
DIXI CHOPPER 24 393 04-s
HONDA 16700-ZL8-013
Mikuni Part no: 808492
Fit Follow Models:
Briggs & Stratton: 28B702, 28B707, 28M707, 28N707, 28P777, 28Q777, 351442 and 351447
Kawasaki: 15 thru 25 HP engines
Kohler: CH17-CH25, CV17-CV25, CH730-CH740 and CV730-CV740; for 17 HP thru 25 HP engines
Fuel Filter Specs: Fits 1/4" fuel line
Filter Size: 1 1/2" OD X 4 1/2" LONG （Fit both A 1/4" X 5/16" ID Fuel Line）
#lawnmoweridle #smallenginerepair - Jak na to + styl
FIX idle/running problems with Briggs & Stratton most years, Here's Exact ORing KIT Briggs Carb repair, Simple Dual fix: Exact ORings amzn.to/3yMb9yC + a NEW Fuel Pump too amzn.to/3KrRoib OEM Parts + B&S Twin Manual amzn.to/2rdRWAR for all answers and facts. *new Nikki COMPLETE CARB AND INSTALL KIT* amzn.to/3RetlXX
Covers - [Briggs & Stratton Nikki V Twin Jet & Transfer Tube O-Ring Service Kit]
&
[ FUEL PUMP REPLACES BRIGGS AND STRATTON 808656 INCLUDES FUEL FILTER 695666] pump for BRIGGS & STRATTON / KOHLER POWERED CRAFTSMAN RIDING LAWN MOWER / GARDEN TRACTOR / LAWN TRACTOR
Replacement pump is for these and more:
KOHLER 24 393 04-S
KOHLER/24 393 16-S
KOHLER 24 393 16-S
BRIGGS & STRATTON 491922
BRIGGS & STRATTON 808656
JOHN DEERE LG808656
JOHN DEERE M138498
JOHN DEERE M145667
KAWASAKI 49040-7001
DIXI CHOPPER 24 393 04-s
HONDA 16700-ZL8-013
Mikuni Part no: 808492
Fit Follow Models:
Briggs & Stratton: 28B702, 28B707, 28M707, 28N707, 28P777, 28Q777, 351442 and 351447
Kawasaki: 15 thru 25 HP engines
Kohler: CH17-CH25, CV17-CV25, CH730-CH740 and CV730-CV740; for 17 HP thru 25 HP engines
Fuel Filter Specs: Fits 1/4" fuel line
Filter Size: 1 1/2" OD X 4 1/2" LONG （Fit both A 1/4" X 5/16" ID Fuel Line）
THANKS! Yep, jets were in the bottom of the fuel bowl. Ordered kit you recommended. Just mowed the lawn! Never lost one rpm even in the thick areas of lawn.👍👍
I just spent about an hour performing this task described in the video, and this dude was exactly right about the whole breakdown and re-assembly. Excellent description - I never would have been able to do this without this video.
Thanks, man!
Great video, exactly the problem I'm having. Thank you for taking the time to help me out, very much appreciated.
Thank you so much for this video and from reading the comments below someone had mentioned the low cost of a complete carb. So that's what I did was to just get a new carb. I did disassemble my old one and sure enough the jets fell out of it! Seems the new carbs don't have jets in them anymore. Thanks again for your information though and my problem seems to be cured!
Can't thank you enough.......was cleaning my carb for first time and the jet fell out.I didn't know where it went.....until I watched your video.......runs like a scalded dog now.Big thumbs up!!
I having trouble with sheering flywheel key what is wrong.
Very informative, can't wait to tear into my 24HP B&S V-Twin that has never run 100% from new! Thanks for the parts link.
Good luck with it, take pictures as you go so you can reverse the process smartly. Find a new solution, put it out there on video.
So I had this problem with my John Deere D140 riding mower as well. It has 189 hours of operation. I took the carburetor off and and took it apart. O rings looked good and no dirt. Gaskets were clean. I put everything back in place. Long story short, it need up being a dirty fuel pump and a clogged fuel supply hose. I shot compressed air into the line and I heard a BANG. It was the dirt that shot out of the fuel supply hose. Installed everything back and mower runs like new. $25 fix.
Very informative, great video, even the comments were good !!!
I'm having the same issue and have replaced the carb. Issue is still present and will try your suggestion next. Thank you for the tip!
Phenomenal video...thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Nice, you saved my butt! Just ordered that kit from your links in description, Cheaper than Briggs by $30!
Good information--that was my problem and I got it fixed. However, in my case the screws holding the carburetor bowl were so firmly held with locktite that the screw heads disintegrated. I had to drill out the screws (Grabit did not work) and tap new holes to get the bowl back on.
I love the background music and the way you illustrated this video, im 50% deaf, I could hear you just fine.
When you get a pervert who is also a scam artist that I uncovered and exposed on YT who stalks me and a few others then takes our words off our videos to do his fantasies with you have to listen to YT customer service folks and add background tunes to make his garbage editing work all out of whack! It worked, He stopped doing copy and edit of all those peoples speaking he was stalking, over 50 in all. Now he has other victims to harass.
Glad you could hear it all, I did a re release of this video with improved editing to make it better, see my last 5-6 vids to get that one.
A very good video, John. I thin those O rings were messed up by the ethanol you used in your FUEL. I use nothing but premium non-ethanol fuel in all my outdoor power equipment. Four cycle gas gets one ounce of B&S AFT fuel treatment and one ounce of MMO per gallon of gas. I get my premium non-ethanol gas for $3 a gallon, locally. A little more costly than regular ethanol gas, but it eliminates "most" gas issue problems we find in two and 4 cycle engines these days due to the ethanol.
thanks iam getting closer will report how i did it for othersthat might have these trobles on the 26 els engine
My sons would start and run about 3 seconds and die. We pulled the fuel line off at the carb and made sure it had fuel getting to the carb. It did. So I pulled the fan guard and shroud bolts loose, you do not have to completely remove the bolts, only back them out. Then I removed the intake manifold and carb bowl. I cleaned the carb out and blew out the jets and reassembled the engine. She starts and runs like new
I need the part the two jets fit in + the new rubber O-Rings & the gasket that in sits on. I’ve tried everything but replacement of these remaining parts.
VERY INFORMATIVE AND TIMELY; THANKS,PATRICK.P
Great video! I have the exact same carburetor but the emulsion tube shroud is black and does not have the two jets you showed, the engine ran fine until recently and surges and runs only with the choke out. I thoroughly cleaned the carburetor and replaced all the Orings. Do you know if any of these Nikki carbs have version’s with no jets? What do you think is going on? Thanks much!!!
JOXH I agree about the repeats. :O( Guess I'm just not patient enough, want to get right down to it. BUT, I did want to comment that you did a great job. I learned a lot about my B&S carb. I am in the proses of cleaning and replacing a lot of stuff on my mower. The brake, the belts, loose steering rusty springs for a few. Have it torn down to the frame. Poor shifting was the original problem. Found top of Transaxle packed solid with crap. Shifts and seems to work OK now. I did have a problem with backfiring and poor idle before. I think before I finish I will do the carb thing. I am always skeptic of carb work. Thanks for the very informative, helpful Vid.Toolman
+Toolman Yeah, a few repeats but the info is useful.
i have the same motor, changed o rings bur not the fuel pump. runs great when moving , but surges and pops when setting still. I didn't replace fuel pump
Great video. I think it will help me a bit on a 92 MTD with a 18.5 horsepower V-twin Briggs & Stratton which is idling low and high. Infact when I throttle it down it shuts off without turning the key off. Also after shutting it off it will generally give off a big backfire so I'm guessing it's these little o-rings. I'm going to have to get the exact motor model #'s to figure out what I need. I fiddled with idle adjustment screws a while back and it helped at first but it's right back at surging again and while mowing it causing a lot of deck wobble. Mower has cut 2-3 acres once every week or 2 during mowing season since 92 & I've never had to do anything to it other than regular oil changes (don't use oil filter) & has to be a record breaker with nearly 25 years of cutting this very large yard. I like to make things last as long as possible & it's feasible providing it's made with good parts to start with. Thanks for sharing.
Did you ever figure it out?
OK first I would like to say this is one of the best detailed videos on this I've seen. With that said I have a problem. The O ring you said that comes with the kit is the wrong size, its for another carburetor piece that's metal and it goes on the inside of the other piece. I tryed to put that one seal that came with the kit on and there is noway to do it its 14.5mm, I had to order the correct one from a small engine shop that fit perfect. Anyway other then that good video.
great video. you explained the exact problem I'm having with my mower. I am going to take it to a repair shop though because I have none of the tools or the experience. thanks for the video though.
+kenneth druggan It's the ethanol destroying the carburetor rubber parts.
Adding a little marvel mistery oil into the gas slows the damage.
I use NO-ETHANOL gas - and have for a couple years. I hope the gas station isn't lying to me.
when installing those jets the best thing to use is a tapered toothpick!! you can push in the jet & it will hold the jet !! jets are very soft you may actually do damage to them using those metal pick tools,plus they slide ooff the pick tool.
Excellent
GOOD Presentation!
Very informative
What about loss of power, some surge at low idle, and popping sounds while running? I actually sprayed some carb cleaner at the intake horn and some puffed back in my face, almost like a valve issue.
I appreciate it Ron White! Glad to know you have something to fall back on if blue collar comedy doesn’t work out!
Thanks just want I needed to know.
is this the same on the 21hp v twin briggs engine in the craftsman mowers?
Well finally got that intek back together. The motor never sounded so nice after it cranks. At first it wasn't choking, so I had to remove once again and put the choke lever in the proper hole. I've been keeping an eye on the fuel level and have taken it around the yard. I still have not put the blade deck back on. Fuel level looks pretty good. I've added a fuel shut off just for safety's sake.
+Paul Govensky Put in a brass 3 way valve at your tank and you can drain fuel and run it dry at the end of season.
Great video very helpful thank you
I got a john deere z355e v-twin 22hp Briggs and Stratton motor and I cleaned carb and check spark both are good but when I start my lawn mower it runs good but once I start to turn blades on and mow for 5 min then it starts to die. Might be fuel pump but I'm not sure it only has 59 hours..
Very detailed but easy to understand! Thank you.
Need help. My motor would run and then dies on me, but if I don't keep on priming the fuel it'll stay running. I replace the fuel pump, but it's still cuts out if I don't keep on priming it to get fuel into the motor.
Excellent video.
You seem very wise on this engine. Why on earth do you suppose a twin cylinder engine like this would have 2 different size jets in the first place? I also have a carb like this and you are right, it has 2 different sized jets, but it doesn't seem to have a "progressive" Idle, power circuit that would benefit from 2 different sized jets.
Great video !
Very well explained, tks.
I did this to mine about a yr ago,,,,NOW when i start it it runs for a bit,,,and stalls wont start unless i use starting fluid
Great video thanks
Pretty darn good video
where can i find those two little jets ,,left and right .....both jets were missing when i took the bowl off ,,, i was very careful to take the bowl off and i seen no jets whatsoever ,,,,one jet in the stim but no two jets in the center where the float surrounds them ,,,, so now i need to find those two jets
Mine would run while cold then lose power and die when it got hot. The problem was that the carb wasn't bolted on tightly enough. The bolts "creep" or stretch over time. My carb was so loose it would move when I wiggled it. To fix it I bolted it back on after taking it off and using some gasket sealant on the o rings. Works fine now
Holy crap man. Thats exactly what mine is doing too! I’m gonna try this out.
I'm having a big problem with this. The jets will not fit back in with the new o-rings. Yes, I took the old o-rings off. Twisting with pressure, brute force; nothing works; the jets will not go in. I tried oiling them up first; still no go. The kit I used is the same part number: #54832
for Briggs & Stratton Nikki V Twin Carburetor as is listed in your link. Anyone else have this problem?
Thanks alot,great video mines only got 110 hrs. and surging!
If you still have surging, there is a quad O ring assembly under the fuel emulsion tube and then behind your choke butterfly is a flat seal with 6 holes in it. These two seals get mushy over time. Mine had the choke return spring and it took a bit of figuring how it worked. It holds the butterfly open normally and when the throttle is put up into choke position it pulls the butterfly down to choke position.
my d170 was surging, I ordered the o ring set from amazon $7 bucks. I tore the carburetor completely down and I found one of the jets in the main housing clogged.
I wish I could attach the pictures I took to show the issue
Great video!!!!! Still relevant.
Glad you think so!
great info
Fixed my Briggs 22 hp intek engine was surging 80hrs on engine
I have a 26 hp Briggs with nikki carb . I have pulled the fuel tube off and it appears that next to the jet tubes, there are two smaller tubes that appear to terminate in two very small holes about a 1/4 inch below the jets. mine are plugged, but I can find no videos that mention cleaning these holes. What say you?
Follow up?
Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!
Good man 👍
Hey John, I came across your video tonight and this is exactly what my 23 horse B&S needs. I click on the link for thr o-ring kit on eBay and I get a "page not found" error. I find tons of kits on Amazon but not sure which is the right one. Do you have a new source for the kits?
Yeah you're right I had to update it there's so many Chinese knockoff attempts with crappy o rings I might want to make sure people get the right thing.
ebay.us/uzi3cg
i cant find my engine , mine is a 44677 model , and type is 0244 E1 also a 26 hoorse power , could use help iv tried to cross reference it with no luck
Go here, www.ereplacementparts.com/briggs-and-stratton-parts-c-16758.html and do some digging, they will answer a email or question very fast www.ereplacementparts.com/contact_us.php . And the parts are dirt cheap or you can copy/search the item number you do find to find it other places.
Thank you
More fixit videos on the spring calendar
I have 27 brigs in my Tractor. It cuts fine when the blades are in gaged. But when I shut them off the. Engine back fires. And stuffers. Until I put the blades back on ?
The vacuum advance is doing that to maintain the full engine torque. Look for a bad vacuum leak on the manifold tube or upper carb seals. With a vacuum leak, under no load the engine is making very little vacuum to run the fuel pump and carb mixture, under heavy load vacuum increases enough to outdo the leaking spot.
Any help would be very much appreciated.....I have a murray 22 horse 46 inch...about 15 years old....cant get a manual anywhere,,,,,,,,,Engine is backfiring once turned off,,,it has about a tree second delay before the bang,,,,,,,,,now its backfiring when you start up the engine (big flame) Engine appears to have a slight OFF idle,,,,,so far I only used carburetor cleaner spray....cleaned air filter...filter looked good...some debris...(very fine) .
Again any feedback would be great .....thank you
+chinese244 Sounds like valve failed. Try pulling valve covers and with plug wires removed give it a few spins to see if a valve is stuck or loose rocker arms/cam.
Well I'm finally getting back to that V twin Intek 20 hp. I didn't know if the vacuum hose was working correctly or not so I'm going to purchase a new one and see if that will work. If not I'll do what you said about going through the fuel system and gently blowing air back into the system. Last time I was able to pull one of the fuel lines off going into the carb, but now nothing comes through. I really don't have time to pull the head right now to see if the valves aren't seating properly....grrrrrr
Don't pull the head, just the valve covers. Spin it a few times with the plugs out and see if you get valves that are not firmly in place or behaving bad.
Good call my friend. I pulled both sides and the cylinder 1 on the exhaust is supposed to be at .005 in fact all of them are the same clearance. I need to find a video on how to do it with these types of nuts. The single OHV is much easier that dual OHV.
Good Call..That mower is finally running like its supposed to do...thanks a bunch
good video 👍
Just hopes it helps people not have to pay $250 to a shop that overprices repairs!
6:30 - "she'll surge and ...hunt like she can't find her rpms" - Now THAT is bird dog talk. ;-)
Wadda you expect, Tex Cajun mix martial artsy language skills
Cajun ??? I am pure Cajun Boudreaux, Primeaux, Lebouef and LuQuette blood in me and I was born and raised in Cajun Country >>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hi John,
The link you posted for your ebay source for the gasket kit no longer works (from 7 yr. Old post). Can you provide their ebay seller name or a newer link for the kit? I want to use your source as MANY of the amazon and ebay suppliers of the generic v-twin kit don't include the correct size o-rings for the 2 jets (too big...jets won't reinstall).
Here's Exact ORing KIT Briggs Carb repair, Simple Dual fix: Exact ORings amzn.to/3yMb9yC + a NEW Fuel Pump too amzn.to/3KrRoib OEM Parts + B&S Twin Manual amzn.to/2rdRWAR for all answers and facts. new Nikki COMPLETE CARB AND INSTALL KIT amzn.to/3RetlXX
Covers - [Briggs & Stratton Nikki V Twin Jet & Transfer Tube O-Ring Service Kit]
I had issue with my motor surging and loosing power after an hour running. I mean each week I filled the tank and it worked fine for an hour then the problem came back. Turned out to be an insect in the fuel tank. Hard to believe but somehow it was taking that long to block the outlet in the tank. You'd think the fuel would be sloshing about too much. But that was it. Meanwhile I'd tried new fuel, carb gaskets, fuel filter, plugs, vac hose even the ignition coil got swapped. I think the bug climbed into the spout on the Jerry can and was washed into the tank when I filled up.
Same thing happened to me. Suspected a line blockage. I drained tank into container(took a while), then blew the line so that anything in it was blown into tank, so I could verify what the cause of the blockage was, and then removed the bug and trash from tank. Had already cleaned carb, replaced fuel filter and spark plug, and replaced magneto and cleaned flywheel in prior 6 months. Fuel line was last possible cause. Lawn tractor is over 20 years old - the service over past 6 months was first service involving new parts and dirty fuel line it had had.
Trouble shooting a new john deere D130 less then 20hrs on it. backfries within 1 min of starting and backfires in any throttle position. To me it sounds like fuel re-igniting in the exhaust? Any recommendations.
If it has the automatic choke on it then remove the wire on it and see how it runs after that. If it has the manual, then check for the cable clamp not properly tightened then fix it.
Great video. Very informative. TY. But damn it. Now I gotta rip mine apart. I will post the video for you to laugh at.
Great job and TY!
"not a metric motor" ... except I found the valve rocker arm bolts are. Why ???
My b&s runs good at at half throttle or more. But surges and misfires at low RPMs only. Would this be the same problem and need a carb rebuild?
Yes, that's a common symptom
Also there is a gasket inside the niki carb that likes to swell up blocking the holes making the engine run rich....so if its running rich .....which should be replaced at the same time.....hate doing the job twice.
My preference is to take the Briggs Nikki carb off and throw it in the trash. I had a older Craftsman 22 horse mower that I had for over 12 years that I made a intake for and put a Harley Davidson Golf Cart 1 bbl carburetor on it. It got better fuel use and much better serviceability. Its really simple to use a old Harley Carb on many small engines but the filter was a bit of a trick in tubing.
Trick put rubber hose our vise grips so you don't crack the fuel line....myself I just take the fuel line off and plug it with dowl pin or cut off a bolt with a smooth shoulder and use that to stop the fuel from leaking from the gas tank.
Golf Tees work great too, depending on the ID of the fuel line,
Can you help me. I took the bowl off without removing the carburetor and both jets just fell out. Do you know which side has the larger jet. I measured them by dropping them over a large needle.The smaller has three straight marks. The smaller has two straight marks and either an arrow of a 4.
If your holding the carb body upside down, and looking at it the float hinge upward ( at the top) then the large jet goes on the right. Or looking at it with the needle jet north of the 2 jets the large jet goes to the right and small jet to the left.
Look at the pictures in the bottom of this ad, rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575119394&toolid=10001&campid=5337663844&customid=Full+O+ring+kit&icep_item=172417185498&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg
Hi I have the same motor like yours and gas is mixing with the motor oil and causes the engine to smoke do you know what’s the problem with it please let me know thanks
4 options: most common is vacuum driven fuel pump failing and Fuel sucked into crankcase.
Also possible: Fuel shut off solenoid failing and flooding cylinders. Valve guides going bad. Carburetor float hanging up and flooding engine.
John, I have a B&S 445677 V twin engine with 660 hours that the carb fell apart on (butterflies fell apart) so I replaced the carb. Now it runs really rough and surges a lot. When I engage the mower, it loses a lot of power and the engine cant seem to keep up with the mower. If I run it up a hill, I have to turn off the mower deck so it doesn't stall out. probably sounds crazy but if it leans downhill to the left it runs worse than if it leans downhill to the right. Any ideas?
+Dave Minnich Sounds like the float or governor. New carb now days don't mean good carb with so much poor quality coming from china.
Did you check the pivot pins on the governor. At that age and hours they are likely worn and after a carb swap possibly missing.
well, after watching your video and a couple others, I found the vacuum line from the fuel pump to the valve cover cracked, ordered a replacement and one of my intake push rods was off its rocker. I'll have to check the governor pivot pins next
Very good. Hope my videos, all of them on so much weird stuff makes everyone who watches Laugh, Look, and Think.
Thank you. My jd was doing the same thing. I can fix it myself. God bless you. Jhusmc
My 24V B&S runs great for 20 minutes then starts surging. The only way it will barely run is full choke, but of course restricts power. Champion R12YC look ok but a little white. Engine has 195 hours. Is this a carb issue? It's a 2013 Husquavarna,.
Vacuum leak. Fix the tube from the valve cover to the carb
My 24hp Intek Nikki (for Craftsman DYS4500) hunts and surges like mad after I took it out of storage (3 years). It was stored properly, but I still had to take the carb off and clean the bowl and shutoff before it would start. It did that the last 2 years I had it before putting it in storage. Cleaning just that always let it start. When it started hunting & surging, I installed new jets for my alt. It ran great for a few mows then started doing it again. I didn't address it before I put the mower in storage (other issues to address in moving away). When I cleaned the carb, one of the jets fell out. So, new O rings are on the list. But my shutoff is not inline with the nozzle. There is not an O ring around anything of the shutoff either. Never was. Is there supposed to be? The shutoff piston is small and at 90deg/perpendicular (meaning the elec conn is parallel) to the nozzle. Engine is B&S 445677-0827-E1. However, the parts the Sears has illustrated for it are NOT altogether correct. There is no nozzle O ring at the shutoff. There isn't an extension tube either. The shutoff piston is positioned 90deg to the nozzle. The float bowl does not have a flat rim all around the edge, but only 2 ears where the screws pass through. *Taking it out of storage, I replaced plugs, oil & filter, air filter & pre, fuel filter & battery. When it would turn over but not start and flooded, I removed carb & cleaned thoroughly. Then it started. But hunts & surges throughout. Only in pulling choke partially (may be nearly half way) out could I get it to run sufficient to mow. It returned after a time though and then nothing helped. I don't think the fuel pump is an issue; Fuel filter level never fluctuated.* At a loss right now.
Sounds exactly like either the fuel pump or improper voltage on the solenoid fuel switch.
I would consider a carb kit, amzn.to/2p27Tu1 and a new fuel pump.
Strangest thing. I left it sitting undisturbed (not by choice) for a week. Decided to give it a try again. Most of the issue is gone. It never made any attempt at all to surge except when the blade was disengaged, and then only mildly so. Thank for the input though.
Im having this exact issue. My Urgent question is when you add the new O-ring between the jet stem and the base intake housing, it leaves nearly an 8th inch gap between the carb housing and the bowl. I'm afraid if i tighten the bowl it'll break something. I added an O-ring that was thinner and got a 16th" gap yet the problem persists. Should i trust the stem and the intake housing to withstand the pressure of crushing the 0-ring that far?
Check to be sure you did not unscrew the jet housing causing it to be lower thus causing the gap. The bowl oring is 2.125mm and as long as the pick up housing is not loosened it should go back together with 1/8 of space from float.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I did unscrew the jet housing. I put a new gasket kit in it but it just seemed like 1/8" gap is a lot. Im startin to think the bottom of the bowl may flex enough and Ill prolly put the O-ring under some compression first but dang...
Anyway, I'll do it tomorrow and drop a final report. Thanks for the video and the reply.
Well my engine finally runs smooth...now I can't get the engine to choke and run. I always have to pull the air filter and spray carb cleaner and then it starts great...What is the deal...grrrrr
Really helpful video.My simplicity riding mower is about 10 years old and I have been fortunate that this is the first time I have had to tackle an issue with this mower and the Briggs & Stratton engine.Need to ask and confirm before I go further with the carb, Is my mower issue solution the same carb fix as described in the video for a surging engine repair?The video speaks to a surging engine and erratic engine performance. My engine issue is likely related to the carb too, my mower specifically runs with the choke closed for several minutes and then eventually floods out and quits. When loading up the engine under power, the engine quits.I've replaced the plugs, the air filter, fuel filter, and sprayed the carb with sea foam. I still need to replace the fuel pump. What do you recommend my next steps to take? Am I rebuilding and cleaning the carb jets or do I have a different issue to tackle and path to a solution?Any additional insight and help would be great. Thanks.
+ttrackspeed Sounds like fuel pump and vacuum tube to it.
Thanks John. That was the push in the right direction I needed. Headed to the back fuel line, pulled out the grommet from the gas tank and blew out the line. Engine running fine again now.
So Stratton engines are pretty reliable with minimal maintenance
Well after repairing the carb and replacing the fuel pump as well, the new pump already failed. Fuel will not spit through the other side. I hope I still have the old one still laying around.
+Paul Govensky It likely has trash in it from all the work. Spray it out with wd 40 and tap it a few times, make sure the vacuum lines not leaking.
well I had gone through the fuel pump again and even purchased a new one to be sure. I did find a small tear in the vacuum line and put some marine grade sealant. The tractor cranked and i cut grass until it ran out of fuel. I added more and noting it would run for a second then quit. I let the tractor sit through the night then tried it again this morning. I pulled the fuel line and once again, no fuel coming through the line. I turned the key until i seen that the pump was working. I connected the line back up and ran great. I finished cutting the lawn and will see how it acts in the morning. I added the fuel shot off cause fuel kept leaking into the crank case thus forcing me to change oil...grrr. Any advice would be helpful. This mower isn't mine and I would love to get it out of my yard. I only had to replace a tire with a tube and replace the mandrel and blades. This has become quite the project.
Once upon a time MTD who is the maker of many brands had a mesh screen in the fuel tanks. It would cause such problems. They also used fuel line that would de-laminate in a few years. But your actually sounds like a severe carbon build up possibility in the cylinders causing hydra-lock vacuum which would explain some after run fuel issues. Try this stuff treatment in the fuel amzn.to/2qwTQZH.
Also do a VERY gentle blow back into the fuel tank and look for a plastic wrap like debris to pop up after treating the fuel system.
Where do you get your parts ? thanks
A top notch guy in Arkansas, from Ebay who has the exact kit and its what I refer anyone too. They are the right Orings, and right material composite. rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575119394&toolid=10001&campid=5338008226&customid=COMPLETE+KIT&icep_item=172603600004&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg B & S V-twin all
I have that engine on my Husqvarna riding mower and I have to use a small capful of gas dumped into the air intake to get it to start. It runs great. Cleaned the carb. Can't figure why it runs so great just won't start. Any idea?
+Martin Hamilton you likely have a vacuum leak. The pump runs on vacuum. A leak would keep it from pumping well till the engine is at high rpm.
+Јохн «HEADSMASHER» Даниел I ended up moving the throttle cable allowing more choke. Thanks for the video!
what pump
Timothy Harris He means vacuum from the intake stroke.
It looks to me like it has had ethanol gas ran in it. This is the number one killer of these types of carburetor mainly the plastic and especially the O rings. Apparently the ethanol gas dissolves the O rings.
I have exactly the same problem with mine.
Wish you would have shown how to remove the carb from the engine.
Are you in Boise, Idaho?
Hopefully you saw the re install steps, and reversed them.
If not, so you keep in tune, take pictures as you follow these steps.
1- remove all offending extra parts ( air filter, fuel lines, and throttle linkage retainer)
2- With a torx or Hex depending on your year fully pull the bolts going to the intake ports on the heads.
3- Carefully wiggle then pull forward the carb and intake enough to unhook the governor link and unplug the fuel cut solenoid on the bottom.
Rotate upside down now.
*watch the video again , search-pause to see clear as you can.
*I am not a good video maker in stability of shots, damn stroke really didn't help! But factual info is good.
Hey i don't know often you check your mail. but I was looking for a video that might explain why the fuel is going into the crankcase. I also have the Intek 25 hp. The fuel pump is mounted on the shrouds and the straight line would fit those. I've already rebuilt this carb last year and it still surges. All my ports are cleaned with new parts. I was shocked to see the fuel inside, but when I would crank it up and run it..she would be out of fuel real quick. With the smaller 6hp briggs I wouldn't hesitate to just change the carb for a new one and be done with it.
+Paul Govensky Sounds like you have bad valve seats on the heads. That can cause high vacuum and excessive fuel use with erratic idol and high speed vibration.
I do know that I have to replace the o rings on the jets..those things are rocking real bad.
I have seen 3 motors from 5hp to 13hp Briggs so far this season with this problem. It's the carb period. The inlet needle is not sealing 100% when the bowl overfills the air intake fills up then gas runs down on top of the piston around the rings and fills the crankcase. Check the float level. The float should sit level when the carb is turned upside down. Seeing as you already put a new needle and seat the float level must be it. Metal floats can be bent by needle nose pliers and plastic floats can be adjusted very carefully with a heat gun. Test the float before any adjustments any gas in the float will cause this problem test it by first placing under water and watching for air bubbles then shake the float by your ear and listen for water splashing. It's a simple fix if you can pinpoint why carb is not sealing up tight. This is the only few problems I know of that will cause this issue. Find me on FB @Gilbertsmallengine if you need any more help.
Also once the crankcase fills completely with gas the motor WILL seize. Don't worry it's only hydrolocked and not seriously damaged. Unplug the spark plug and run the motor slightly backwards by hand, grab the blade, pulley, flywheel etc. then backwards and forwards empty the gas out of the crankcase fill it with clean oil fix the carb and its done.
Mine did this too. it'd easily start without choking it, but then soon die. I found my crankcase full of gas thinned oil too.
When it dies, if you remove the air filter cover & remove the air filter, can you look down & see any liquid (wet) gas down in the neck of the carbs air intake at all? It "should" be dry down there.
Mine did this & I had to rebuild the carb. so basicaly the float sat down lower than recommended, so lower down into the bowl than per the specks, so it would cut-off the gas sooner. Basically, you'd be trying to lower the fuel level in the bowl.
Also, make sure the O-ring in the fuel lift tube is also sealing very well.
Once I got the fuel level lower, my mower ran fine & it still had plenty of fuel despite the lower bowls lower gas level.
BTW There are some very simple "tricks" to help set the level lower too.
Hope it helps
DL
I'm trying to understand something here as it relates to it hunting and surging. I've never had an engine hunt and surge unless it was blocked somewhere, but you're saying if gas is leaking past an o ring it may haunt and surge in that case? Why is that ? My buddy has a carb where the plunger is not working it doesn't spring back to shut off fuel, that shouldn't be a problem when it's running should it?
The hunt and surge is due to the jumping back and forth between rich and lean due to flood and starvation. And a bad fuel cut solenoid won't do that, a set of deteriorated orings will and historically are number one cause.
Thanks for the response I must've misheard something. Thanks for the video!
I have a new 25 hp Briggs zero turn Troy-Built and am having what I think is another shutoff problem. This is not an intech engine, or at least I cannot find anything that says intech, What it does say that it is a Professional series engine. If tat means anything to you. I have had this problem since it was brand new in 2016. After I change the oil the engine will run a few minutes and shut down. The factory rep says it is a gas problem so the warrantee doesn't help me. What I believe is that when the 50 hour warning comes on reminding me to change the oil, well then I change the oil. I just noticed that the warning is still flashing after I changed the oil. Could it be thinking that it is out of oil and shuts down? I have heard that on that 25 hp engine it is supposed to shut off rather than burning up the engine when it runs out of oil. Is that true? Am I missing something, do I have to reset the warning? I have not done that in the past. If so how do I reset it? And will that work. The guy at the shop insisted that I pull the wire on the carb solenoid and that seems to have worked all last season. Well I just done my spring maintenance and, yes it is back to its old tricks. It shut off in the back 40 and I had to walk all the way back! Frustrating! Can you help me?
+Larry Thompson Your hour meter is bad. It's a high tech version with 30 Meg memory. It is not resetting and it was probably bad from day one.
Excellent video even if it is 7 years old now. Grateful for the sizes of the screws that need taking off. Major surprise seeing that o-ring so bloated out. They don't make Buna like they used to!
My ltx1000 backfires and dies after about 10 to 15 from startup. It runs fine before then. Could it be the same problem
Yes, after its well warmed up the materials will heat up enough to loosen the fit on the worn out orings and flood the engine.
Check the gas cap to make sure it's not plugged up.
hi, very interesting video would it be the same for the Husqvarna ct135. it was made in 2002/3.
iv'e done the fuel line, filter, air filter new plug. but it still struggling, it seam's to be raceing new to ride on mower's but love to have ago at anything. B&S engine number 31g777-0193 twin carb.
Sounds like a carb issue, possible a vacuum problem too. But as I remember, those engines were 17.5 horsepower single cylinder. The carb would be so different than a Intek v twin. But the Oring issue in the carb bowl would be similar, just a different jet and fuel cut oring size. www.manualslib.com/manual/791751/Husqvarna-Ct135.html
For the Intek Single cylinder, 14 to 19 horse, Pre-2004 Engines, A replacement carb , and fuel pump with vacuum tube should fix all the issues. Carb - amzn.to/2GWuyfo , Vacuum breather tube - amzn.to/2L0U1XK and the fuel pump - amzn.to/2ISMZUc
hi thanks so much for the reply, and yes it is single, and not double as i said, it say's twin cam, kohler engine.
so that is my task for tomorrow, i'm lucky. thanks.
Kohler? Must be a replacement Engine, never saw a Husky with a Kohler. I would have to go check that one out. BUT, if its a Kohler then I would shoot straight for checking on the engine governor for the problem you speak of.
okay thanks for that, the husky was given to my husband for a present, but not running right.
How do I know if a carb is a Nikki carb? I can't see a name on mine.
It's the brand of carb used on over 90% of all non-honda style engines.
I have a 445677 0945 G5 It has the separate style choke..... The choke is on the throttle lever.... Someone got into the engine before I did... Have you ever done one like that ???
Yes, I go to Ebay and buy a separate choke cable and actuator. Those with a combined set just are crap.
The reason I'm asking ....is that somebody got on mower before I did and I think the choke lever is messed up.... Do you have a video hooking the choke lever up on the ones with the throttle/choke all in one ???
There is a plastic keeper on the choke lever on the mounting plate where the linkage goes into from the carbby...... 1 end has the Z bend and that goes in the carb part of the choke... The other end is a straight 90 degree bend and that plastic keeper is supposed to hold that end in there.... For some reason the bend is not right at all.....
It is not at the right angle and keeps coming out ~!~!
Need some help and my manual does not show that area well .......
Merci Mon Ami ~!~!
I haven't done a video on one, but there are god schematics in the parts suppliers like this one that may help. www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/445677-1578-G5/1245/1503500.html
You must know PooPoo Thibodeaux with a name like that! Sounds like home!
additional schematics www.ereplacementparts.com/briggs-and-stratton-4456771578g5-engine-parts-c-16758_17347_244741_244790.html
Is this the kit I need for my 24HP v-twin Intek model 44N877 type 0003G1 code 150925YG engine?
Yes, it fits 21 to 24 hp Nikki carbs.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 OH so I will order a 54832 Briggs & Stratton Nikki V Twin Carburetor Rebuild Kit. thanks
@@JOHNDANIEL1 How do I know if it's a Nikki carb?
If it is a Intek, it's a Nikki
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thank you so much.
My problem is that one of the cylinders is not firing. I have checked the spark and valves and they are okay. I suspected that it does not get gas and cleaned the carb same way you have done but the problem is still there. What could the problem be?
+Kimutai Rop Pull the spark plugs and wires then with choke on and throttle full speed spin the engine to see if fuel spits out the plug holes.
Otherwise you have a weak coil and may get spark but so low a voltage it only will fire one cylinder consistently.
Јоhn Daniel , thanks! Will try first thing in the morning. You will get a report. Bless you!
With your advice I established that both cylinders received gas. At operating speeds, both cylinders are on but at idling, the left side does not. Is that normal?
Sorry late response, sounds like valve fail on that side, Need to check the valves if you haven't already.
As an easy test, you don't have a testing multi meter for the coils, you could fairly easily just swap both coils, left & right, and see if the problem also flips from L to R cylinder.
If not, then you may have a block passageway in the carb.
Hope it helps
Was there a video prior to this actually showing an engine surging, stalling, and backfiring?
If you get stuck, try the manual. Its cheaper here amzn.to/2rdRWAR and they are even working on a digital version. Covers all V twins like I am showing. Best money spent now days.
Really good information. But please do something with the camera, after a few minutes I started to get motion sickness. I continued to listen but stopped actually looking at the video. Thanks for your help.
Wouldn’t it be easier just to change the carb? I seen em on amazon for 20.00
j sanner no. I have put 2 carbs on an 18.5 Briggs ohv engine. They idle fine but won’t run at high rpms. Lack of power. I’m drilling out one of them in hopes it will run properly. Wish me luck.
Thanks for your suggestion! I had read all of the comments after watching the video then decided to see if I could get a new carb at that price. Course it's been 2 years since your suggestion and it's a tiny bit more now but still a bargain, so that's what I did!
DIY NOTE - For ALL 1 and 2 cylinder power users, if you want to actually get the ethanol film and carbon out of your pre-combustion engine parts then use BG, amzn.to/2qwTQZH . It will actually work getting fine particles and sludge out. 2X better than seafoam and other solvents.
Quite the “editorializing “ get to the point, HELLO, CARB R & R!